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Thread: Bleeding Brakesm problem

  1. #11
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    If you haven't overlooked something else, I would also say the master is bad, which can happen when you push it full stroke and it tears a seal in the seldom used part of the bore on a used cylinder. Also, I have found the best way ever to bleed a whole dry brake system by yourself in less than 30 minutes is to use an air powered vacuum bleeder like the one OTC sells. It's a lifesaver I've successfully used many times now on a completely empty brake system, and makes the $100 I spent on it a bargain. Just pull the trigger and watch it flow, and don't worry about the bubbles being pulled in around the bleeder threads. It's all about filling the lines with fluid quickly. Don't need to bench bleed the master either. I've learned brake bleeding the hard way too many times before. You can also just stand up a bottle of brake fluid in the reservoir, and make it auto-refill as you go. Just recently did this bleeding the all new brake system on my 1950 1.5 ton, but just added a short piece of hose to the nozzle of the bottle to reach the reservoir under the floorboard. Bled the whole system with 1 quart by myself in no time. I also use the vac bleeder to occasionally empty, and refill master reservoirs to keep the fluid fresher instead of doing what I should, a 2 year flush on all of my vehicles. Brake fluid loves to suck up water, and ruin your brake system.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 01-08-2019 at 03:51 PM.

  2. #12
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    yep

  3. #13
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    You by chance have a part # for that OTC bleeder

  4. #14
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    which can happen when you push it full stroke and it tears a seal in the seldom used part of the bore on a used cylinder.
    I'm going to speculate that RD has nailed the problem. This is supported by your statement that the fluid stream seems to be momentarily bubble free but has bubbles when you bleed again. And perhaps why the master cylinder is a problem now but wasn't the original problem.

  5. #15
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turk1955 View Post
    You by chance have a part # for that OTC bleeder
    This is a newer version of the one that I have. You can get the auto-refill bottle for another $43 which would be nice to have, but easy to replicate. In my 1950 truck manual they actually show using something similar to keep the reservoir filled while bleeding.
    https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Equipment...+brake+bleeder
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 01-09-2019 at 04:15 AM.

  6. #16
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    yes

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    I'm going to speculate that RD has nailed the problem. This is supported by your statement that the fluid stream seems to be momentarily bubble free but has bubbles when you bleed again. And perhaps why the master cylinder is a problem now but wasn't the original problem.
    I too have experienced this and one I bit the bullet and bought a MC life was good again.

  8. #18
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    Since we are talking brake bleeding systems, this is the one (Motive Power) I've used successfully for around 20 years:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...gaAj57EALw_wcB

    Nice and simple. Do it once and you're done.
    Last edited by kbuhagiar; 01-09-2019 at 10:57 AM.
    Cheers!

    Ken in SSF
    56 One-Fifty Two-Door Sedan

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbuhagiar View Post
    Since we are talking brake bleeding systems, this is the one (Motive Power) I've used successfully for around 20 years:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...gaAj57EALw_wcB

    Nice and simple. Do it once and you're done.

    I second this, I made my one man bleeder out of an old garden sprayer instead of buying one but they work really well. So much better than trying to find somebody to help.

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