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Thread: Bleeding Brakesm problem

  1. #1
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    Bleeding Brakesm problem

    Ok so got a problem, my 55 210 has disks up front and drums back I found a bad spot in the line leading back to the rear and replaced the bad section also found one bad wheel cylinder driver side rear and replaced that so my next I got a friend to help bleed the rear system. Hear is my problem, after going through the bleeding process (person in car pumps pedal 3 times then holds it down then I open bleeder to let air out then close it then he would release pedal ) this we did and I have gone through at least a quart and still getting air !! We have checked all the fittings and found nothing, what the heck I am missing ??? FYI: this car is equipped with a booster and proportioning valve but I don't think that has anything to do with the problem, any help would be greatly appreciated. 55 brake setup.jpeg

  2. #2
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    I suggest to start off bench bleed the master cylinder first. This can be done in the car. There are many you tubes on this topic. If the master cylinder is new that does not pardon it from defects. It is quite common to open a box to discover the master cylinder is JUNK.

    If the bleeding goes good then start gravity bleed with all 4 bleeders open till dripping occurs at all them.
    Then get buddy to assist on the brake pedal and drain till no air comes out each wheel.

  3. #3
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    Ok but before I do that I have a question, this setup was on the car when I bought it and all was good till just about a month ago when I noted it started pulling a little to the left and on inspection I found the driver side rear wheel cylinder was leaking so I replaced it also found a spot on the line leading back to the rear so replaced about 3' of the line. This is the only changes that where made so y should I have to bleed the master cylinder or the front brakes?

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    You should always replace wheel cylinders and calipers in pairs.

  5. #5
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    Ok forgot to mention that I did replace both rear wheel cylinders

  6. #6
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    If you have no leaks anywhere the and still no pedal the master cylinder has gone south. But unless all the air is out of the system you don’t know for sure. Do you have a vacuum pump to apply negative pressure at each bleeder screw? It is a positive way to insure solid fluid and no air. I do that on every brake job after gravity bleeding.

  7. #7
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    Are you getting a decent amount of fluid out of the bleeders when bleeding? Are you sure that the shuttle in the combination valve hasn't closed the rear brakes off?

    I know you said you went through a quart of fluid, but just checkin'.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Are you getting a decent amount of fluid out of the bleeders when bleeding? Are you sure that the shuttle in the combination valve hasn't closed the rear brakes off?

    I know you said you went through a quart of fluid, but just checkin'.

    I have experienced this one or a collapsed rear hose.

  9. #9
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    Ok so today I spent at least 4hrs gravity bleeding the rear brakes and at first the pedal felt great so I had the wife get in and do the pedal while I opened the far bleeder just to make sure all the air was out well after the 2nd try the dam thing started pushing air again and pedal went soft again, this is getting irritating !!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by turk1955 View Post
    Ok so today I spent at least 4hrs gravity bleeding the rear brakes and at first the pedal felt great so I had the wife get in and do the pedal while I opened the far bleeder just to make sure all the air was out well after the 2nd try the dam thing started pushing air again and pedal went soft again, this is getting irritating !!
    Not trying to state the obvious, but are you making sure that the MC reservoir stays full while bleeding?
    Cheers!

    Ken in SSF
    56 One-Fifty Two-Door Sedan

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