Vortec Bypass Hose/heater hose

[Tabasco]

Well I have bypass hose. Until this week I didn't even know I needed one. I learned a lot about vortec engines that I didn't know.

My intake had three holes. I originally used them for a stock temp sender, an auxiliary temp sender and heater. To add the bypass I put a tee in one hole and used that for a temp sender and the bypass.

bypass hose.jpg

I'll run one heater hose from the intake and the return line to a connection on the lower hose.

Now on to the next task. There are sure a lot of pieces to a '56 Chevy. They come apart a lot quicker than they go back together.

[55 Rescue Dog]

If you actually believe that it shows again how uninformed you are about cars. Virtually EVERY car has a coolant control valve to stop coolant from flowing into the heater core. If they didn't, you'd get heat in the passenger compartment from the core, but without the blower. Vintage Air supplies a control valve and even the stock heater core from 60 years ago has a valve. How else do you control air temperature? As for the holes in the thermostat, they're not needed with a proper bypass and do cause longer warm-up time. Lots of posts on the forums about that. A tiny hole to pass air may help purge the system. Some guys actually believe that restricting coolant flow improves cooling. LOL

I will never know as much as you Anut about cars, and surely you must know there are 2 types of heating systems used on cars. Not a lot of info out there I could find on the subject but there are water valve systems, and air blend systems to control the heat. One of the advantages of the air blend system is it adds cooling capacity since the heater core is also a radiator all the time, and diverting air with blend doors to control the cabin temp. Do modern cars even use a water valve like the old cars did? I don't ever recall mentioning restricting coolant flow to improve cooling. That's what some people do when they eliminated the thermostat which I think is a bad idea. The thermostat is a restriction even when fully open, which is the reason they use restrictors to control the flow to the same flow rate, with no bypass hose required. The 3/16's inch holes are required in the thermostat on engines with no heater, and no bypass hose to circulate coolant to the cylinder heads. Otherwise the cylinder heads will overheat before the thermostat can open. The bypass holes do slow down warm up a little, but it works.
So, I'm guessing you surely have a better explanation?

https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-car-heating-and-ventilation-systems-work

[markm]

Just saw this 33 page thread from 2011 pop up all about the subject.
https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59036

Talk about bogus info this thread is full of it, all SBC factory blocks I have ever seen have the bypass cast in them, the Vortech ones do not have it in w/p or cyl head.

[55 Rescue Dog]

On this setup with no heater or hoses, I had to use a bypass thermostat. The radiator is below the top of the engine so I needed to fill it from the T-stat housing. I didn't want to use a surge tank so I ended up using a Moroso filler neck housing with a high pressure cap, and a lower pressure cap on the radiator with an overflow tank. I can fill the whole system with no trapped air, screw the cap on and it's good to go. I can, and have drained all the coolant with petcocks on the block, and refilled without spilling a drop. BTW, do not use the Summit water pump that failed at 150 miles, or the stainless upper hose with adaptors, and worm clamps that failed at 200mi. It now has a high pressure Goodyear hose, and constant tension hose clamps. This is a street car designed to feel/look like a race car, and it does just that. Love it, or hate it, it is a freaking hoot to drive even at 55. Even though it didn't pan out, I wanted this car to look like a 55 Chevy. Only one piece of glass, no AC, with no stereo that you could even hear, no remote controls, etc. Just a simple car built from a pile of steel.
My 1930 Model A was a lot like that, but much more scary to drive at any speed.

https://bangshift.com/bangshiftapex/car-feature-street-legal-circle-track-camaro-unique-homebuilt-corner-burning-monster/

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[markm]

Well I have bypass hose. Until this week I didn't even know I needed one. I learned a lot about vortec engines that I didn't know.

My intake had three holes. I originally used them for a stock temp sender, an auxiliary temp sender and heater. To add the bypass I put a tee in one hole and used that for a temp sender and the bypass.

[ATTACH]9783[/ATTACH]

I'll run one heater hose from the intake and the return line to a connection on the lower hose.

Now on to the next task. There are sure a lot of pieces to a '56 Chevy. They come apart a lot quicker than they go back together.

looks like that will work in spite of all the bogus info being put out.

[55 Rescue Dog]

looks like that will work in spite of all the bogus info being put out.

My point with the bypass thermostat still stands. Looks cleaner, only adds a few minutes to warm-up, then the t-stat, and fan take it from there anyway. I have no idea how to calculate the volume of flow through three 3/16in holes in the t-stat at whatever the water pump pressure is though? I have a pressure gauge with a low pressure light, installed in my cooling system, but I get weird readings with it mounted above the thermostat. I need to move the gauge port below that to read cooling system pressure I think.

[Rick_L]

I don't think holes in the thermostat are the end of the world, but your comments about the uncertainty of the flow volume makes it a crap shoot doesn't it? They can be made too big.

The engine is certainly going to warm up slower than otherwise if your bypass is to the radiator.

Your comments about pressure don't make any sense. Remember too that race setups that monitor water pressure don't usually use a thermostat.

Why not just install the bypass hose like the factory did and move on?

[markm]

My point with the bypass thermostat still stands. Looks cleaner, only adds a few minutes to warm-up, then the t-stat, and fan take it from there anyway. I have no idea how to calculate the volume of flow through three 3/16in holes in the t-stat at whatever the water pump pressure is though? I have a pressure gauge with a low pressure light, installed in my cooling system, but I get weird readings with it mounted above the thermostat. I need to move the gauge port below that to read cooling system pressure I think.

My comment was not directed toward you it was directed toward the statements in that link about Vortech blocks not having bypass passages drilled. Heads and pumps are not drilled but blocks I have seen are drilled.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Since it was mentioned earlier in the thread that, EVERY car has a heater control valve, I was wondering how on modern cars they control the cabin heat temp with dual-zone climate control, etc? Do they use multiple servo operated heater control valves for that? I can't seem to find a good example of how automotive HVAC system really works. Never gave it much thought before, as long as it got warm when it was cold outside, and cold when it's hot. I like controlling temperature with the windows.

[Rick_L]

EVERY car has a heater control valve,

Most 60s GM cars didn't have a heater control valve. I don't know when they went back to one if they ever did.

I was wondering how on modern cars they control the cabin heat temp with dual-zone climate control, etc? Do they use multiple servo operated heater control valves for that?

They use servo operated "doors" not valves. In other words they control the flow of hot air (and cold air), rather than coolant flow.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Most 60s GM cars didn't have a heater control valve. I don't know when they went back to one if they ever did.



They use servo operated "doors" not valves. In other words they control the flow of hot air (and cold air), rather than coolant flow.

It reacts quicker I think, rather than waiting for the heater core to warm up, and back down.

[chevynut]

Most 60s GM cars didn't have a heater control valve. I don't know when they went back to one if they ever did.
They use servo operated "doors" not valves. In other words they control the flow of hot air (and cold air), rather than coolant flow.

A lot of them did have heater control valves, especially with A/C and on cars in the late 60's cars....

https://www.carid.com/1964-pontiac-bonneville-heater-control-valves/

https://www.ss396.com/chevelle/ACV-1901.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImq6thfnx4gIVEavsCh0CAgcFEAQYASABEgLNX_D_BwE

https://www.ss396.com/camaro/ACV-1901.html?search_query_insert=Y&search_query=heater%20control%20valve&search_results=2&conversion_insert=Y&conversion_product_id=135&cartype=camaro&year=0

https://www.ss396.com/nova/ACV-1901.html?search_query_insert=Y&search_query=heater%20control%20valve&search_results=2&conversion_insert=Y&conversion_product_id=135&cartype=nova&year=0

[Tabasco]

I received the part I need to connect the heater return line to the lower radiator hose. I'm glad something was available so I wouldn't have to have one made.

20190619_140122.jpg

One more problem solved, 10,000 more to go.