My '55 Belair 2 Door Hardtop Build (sort of

[BamaNomad]

Troy,

Have you made all the mods you plan to your frame before having it powder coated? Including trial/test fitting any modified parts? you should definitely do that as it *sucks* when you have to cut on or weld on a newly powder coated frame!!

For mounting the body again, I'd suggest following the basic instructions: 1) place a frame cushion pad and shim on each location, 2) lower the body down til it hits the cushions, 3) add additional shims where the body isn't sitting on the frame, go on from there..

[WagonCrazy]

I too would do it as Bama is suggesting. There's a bit of play in these frames, so there may be some shimming needed here and there.

[chevynut]

As you probably know, the frame will have to be completely sandblasted and cleaned before powdercoating. I used to pay $250-350 to have frames sandblasted after I converted them for the C4 suspensions but the last one was 4-5 years ago. I just had my entry gate quoted and it was $585 to sandblast and $885 to powdercoat it and all the parts (posts, etc.). I think my gate is a lot more work than a frame.

And like Bama said, make sure you have all the welding you want to do done before you do the powdercoating. One thing I don't like about powdercoating is that these frames typically have dents after 65+ years on the road and they have factory defects. You can't fill dents. Factory defects may not matter to you. You can hide some of it if you use a low-gloss or textured powdercoat. There's a zillion colors and textures available.

As far as setting the body back on I would just put it on and look at the mounts to see if they all touch or are close. Then, put all the bolts in and tighten them. The frame probably flexes a lot more than the body does. You may need to shim the body to align the doors or something else, but imo I wouldn't worry about the shimming until you see how everything fits with the mounts torqued down first.

[WagonCrazy]

The frame probably flexes a lot more than the body does.

Yes it does. Mine still flexes when passing over uneven driveways.

[Troy]

Thanks for you guys help!!! I starting today with the cutting off of things and welding up some 1" x 3" holes my dad cut in the bottom of the frame for the tranny mount he made. I'm going to wire brush it up to clean it up so the powder coater doesn't have as much work. I'm not looking for a show car frame, just a clean frame for a driver so I'll be happy. Thanks again, and I'll have many more questions down the line!

[Troy]

Yippee!!! I dropped off my frame to the powder coater today!!! Now I have 3+ weeks to get the stuff done prior to putting the frame under the body!!!

[WagonCrazy]

Forward progress feels good Troy! Keep at it.

[Troy]

Hey Everyone,

I found this rubber strip on top of my '55 frame when I removed it, I'm pretty sure I found one many many years ago while working on my '55! I looked in my assy manual and it looks like they get glued on to my frame in a few spots. Does anyone know what they are called and what they are for? Thanks for some input!!

Rubber Strip.jpg

[BamaNomad]

It's to prevent the body from rubbing on the frame in the rear 'kickup' area... call it an 'anti squeak' strip?

[Troy]

Thanks Bama!! I haven't been able to find them for sale so I may have to make some!!