Yes, that was his plan. He said he could produce the factory flaring on both ends but would need to re-use the fittings on my lines.
Yes, that was his plan. He said he could produce the factory flaring on both ends but would need to re-use the fittings on my lines.
I'm really skeptical about whether he can make the o-ring "flare" on the valve end. Nobody around here could do it, not even TubesNHoses. But who knows....GM or their supplier did it.
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56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Laszlo, how similar is that in regards to the fuel line entry and exit lines for an LS regulator/filter? I know the end on the fuel line terminates into the bullet but am wondering if the tube OD is the same along with the raised portion that creates the flange for the o-ring. If it's the same could it be used?
The rack lines are 1/4" and I doubt the LS fuel lines are that small. An o-ring goes on the ends of these two lines.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
LS line is 3/8, thanks. I wonder if the Mastercool Push Connector adaptor & die for 1/4" is the same?
Last edited by NickP; 10-25-2017 at 07:30 PM.
I used MasterCool's 1/4" push connector die and formed this in steel line. It's a bit ugly, I use an anti seize lubricant when doing all of these fittings. I don't have any 1/4" stainless yet. The created flange diameter is .35" What is the diameter on your line at this flange? Just trying to extract a solution for future needs. TIA
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Last edited by NickP; 11-02-2017 at 09:53 AM.
Nick, that looks like half of the problem. Notice how the flare on the stock tube in my picture actually necks down so you can put an o-ring on it. I don't think it will work with just the bubble. I came up with a solution to the problem and I think it works quite well so that's how I plan to do it if I do any more of these. It would be nice to be able to make the large flare on the other end. Thanks.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Well, ok................................................ ..........................................
Another reason not to get too carried away on custom parts. I'm hoping for the off the shelf stock lines to work on mine, with a stock rack. I love going into the hood banger store and finding the exact part I need in stock.
You might be able to get it to work by trimming the excess and doing a 2nd operation as you do on a double flare line with a custom made die for the 2nd operation. On mine I cut the factory end off and put a double flare where I cut it off to connect the other end of the line I bent up with a double flare coupling. One the other end I used the factory fitting and made a double flare a bit bigger by moving the tube out of the die a bit after the 2nd flare operation and doing the 2nd operation again. It hasn't leaked on that end so far. Not the best looking line but it works. The way Cnut did his line will work well and looks nice too, so that is good way to do it also. Seems crazy that they didn't use standard fittings on those racks that would be easier to find though.