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Thread: Clocking the steering rack on a C4 conversion frame

  1. #41
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    My whole intent with my exercise was to provide a possible solution to those without specialized tools; an alternative if you will. I was hoping to obtain some data with regards to completing the fitting by doing a second op and possibly a third. I found a used rack with hoses, ordered it up so I will have real time data from actual parts rather than request data.

    As mentioned, Laszlo's method certainly works and by no means did I intend to suggest otherwise. I just know there are others out there that need an optional solution, that's all.

  2. #42
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    It's always good to have options! Another thing I found when setting mine up is that the O-rings on the rack fitting are not a standard American size. All the ones anyone had at the parts stores were either to big or to small. I found some metric size O-rings online that fit much better. I think the website was called "the oring store" I don't remember the exact size it was though. I ordered a few each of several sizes since the shipping on them was more than all the O-rings I purchased.

  3. #43
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Custer55 View Post
    It's always good to have options! Another thing I found when setting mine up is that the O-rings on the rack fitting are not a standard American size. All the ones anyone had at the parts stores were either to big or to small. I found some metric size O-rings online that fit much better. I think the website was called "the oring store" I don't remember the exact size it was though. I ordered a few each of several sizes since the shipping on them was more than all the O-rings I purchased.
    Another source for O-rings both English/metric and material type to fit the requirement: https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1a3epzh Not having one yet, I can't vouch for an exact match to size or material.

  4. #44
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nick, I could have sent you the unused end of my lines if you needed them for measurements. I actually have two sets of them. I thought about soldering AN adapters on both ends and just using a simple AN4 hose with straight ends between them. That would eliminate the banjos and 90 degree ends. May try that next time I do this.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #45
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    no biggie.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Nick, I could have sent you the unused end of my lines if you needed them for measurements. I actually have two sets of them. I thought about soldering AN adapters on both ends and just using a simple AN4 hose with straight ends between them. That would eliminate the banjos and 90 degree ends. May try that next time I do this.
    Just curious, why can't the tubing just be cut off and flared for a AN tube sleeve and nut? Does the tubing spit when you try to flare it or something?

  7. #47
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluegrass Trifive View Post
    why can't the tubing just be cut off and flared for a AN tube sleeve and nut?
    If you installed an AN to metric o-ring adapter into the PS valve end, you could do that....that is if you could find the correct adapter. It's a 12mm x 1.25 thread with an o-ring at the bottom. Or you could use sealing washers on the adapter if there was no o-ring. I used an AN4 banjo there and that would work with a hardline too. The other end is the bigger problem. It's a 12mm tube nut and a large flare that nobody in my area could make. There's no sleeve behind the flare at the rack cylinder end and the hole in the nut is pretty big. Maybe there is a way to make the flare that large but I couldn't find one and I wasn't comfortable with using it with the smaller flare.

    That's why I used the stock flared ends and nuts at the cylinder and made AN4 hoses from there to the AN banjos on the valve.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    If you installed an AN to metric o-ring adapter into the PS valve end, you could do that....that is if you could find the correct adapter. It's a 12mm x 1.25 thread with an o-ring at the bottom. Or you could use sealing washers on the adapter if there was no o-ring. I used an AN4 banjo there and that would work with a hardline too. The other end is the bigger problem. It's a 12mm tube nut and a large flare that nobody in my area could make. There's no sleeve behind the flare at the rack cylinder end and the hole in the nut is pretty big. Maybe there is a way to make the flare that large but I couldn't find one and I wasn't comfortable with using it with the smaller flare.

    That's why I used the stock flared ends and nuts at the cylinder and made AN4 hoses from there to the AN banjos on the valve.
    I think I remember you cutting the rack end fittings off leaving a short section of the tube attached and then soldering a AN fitting to the tube? Could you not just flare the tube for AN fittings instead of soldering and run a AN hose between them?

  9. #49
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluegrass Trifive View Post
    I think I remember you cutting the rack end fittings off leaving a short section of the tube attached and then soldering a AN fitting to the tube? Could you not just flare the tube for AN fittings instead of soldering and run a AN hose between them?
    Yes there are other ways you could do it. You could use an AN4 union and flare the end of the stock tube and use an AN4 nut. I used an AN4 union but I machined the union and silver soldered it onto the stock tube. You could also flare the other end of the stock tube after cutting and re-bending it and make the connection at the union. I chose the hose route because I think putting a union in a hardline would look strange and I wanted it to be "uncluttered" so I eliminated one nut.

    What would be nice is to crimp the hose onto the end of the stock tube(s) so it looked like it came that way from the factory. You could probably do that with a couple of of Nick's bubble flares and a crimp sleeve, if you had the tools or someone to do it for you.

    Here's a re-post of how I did it on mine:

    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #50
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    I haven’t decided for sure what I’m going to do yet. I’m either going use adapter fittings to AN hose or maybe just cut the tube and flare it. I’ll mock it up and see which I like the looks of the best and go from there. Your stuff is looking good for sure,you about ready to paint yet?

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