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Brian,
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Brian fantastic work as always thanks for the updates.Comment
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My next project was to set up the steering column. I found my old swap meet find from years ago and started cleaning it up and partially taking it apart to see what I was dealing with.
20240912_095942.jpgAt this point I had cut off and cleaned up the lower flange where it would have mounted to the firewall when in a 78 Camaro. I had also checked the ignition switch and neutral saftey/back up switch to make sure they still worked (they do) and label the function of all the wire stubs. Also I de-pinned to turn signal switch (which seemed to work fine) connector so I could remove that for now.
20240912_100049.jpgThis column Is from a floor shift car (which is what I will be doing also) but there was a shift lever at the bottom (which I had already made removeable) which connects to the transmission shift lever to operate the column mounted neutral safety and back up light switches as well as rotate the upper part of the column to show what gear you are in.
image.pngThis is the neutral safety and back up light switch which is operated by the inner tube in the column much like a column shift car even though the Camaro this came out of had a floor shift.
image.pngHere as I mentioned above I had made the lever to rotate the inner column tube removeable so I wouldn't need such a big hole in the firewall to install the column but will be able to retain the column mounted neutral safety switch and back up light switches if needed, as well as using it to set up a gear selector indicator.
image.pngBefore going any further with installing the steering column I decided to get the front suspension and steering rack mounted so I could make sure it will be installed where everything works right instead of just guessing at it and having to re-do it later. I got these tubular upper and lower A-arms which eliminate the strut rods and got them installed.
image.pngHere is a shot of the rusty originals. Figured by the time I sandblasted, painted, installed new ball joints and bushings in these It would have cost almost as much as the new ones.
image.pngAnd a view of the new control arms from the rear. I have a stack of washers on the long lower control arm bolts so I don't wear out the nylon lock nuts before final assembly.
image.pngSo next I went to install my rebuilt rack and pinion which I got at the Jefferson swap meet this spring at a great price. (half or less than what you would pay at an auto parts store)
That became my next issue to figure out as it would not clear the new lower control arm bolts to install it. As it turns out the new rack is actually an 82 to 88 Thunderbird rack which is the same length overall and the same at the tie rod pivot points as the Mustang II rack but the mount points are a bit different. Hard to see in this shot but the mounts on the Thunderbird rack at the top of the photo the mounts are a 1/4" closer to the rack centerline.
image.pngFrom this top view it is easier to see that the mounts on the Mustang rack extend farther out than the ones on the Thunderbird rack. Also the mount spacing is 1/2" narrower on the Thunderbird rack. 15 1/2" vs 16" on the Mustang rack. So after a bunch of measurements, some research on the internet and bolting the Mustang rack in place to see how it fit I figured out what I needed to do. Basically moving the mount holes in and up a 1/4" and using 3/4" spacers between the Thunderbird rack and the mount brackets on the crossmember.
image.pngHere I have the holes moved up and in 1/4". At this point I could have just made some spacers, bolted it together and called it good but I didn't want to have the rack slip down so a bit more fabrication was in order.
"to be continued)Brian,Comment
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image.pngThe first step was to weld and 1/8" plate behind where I had moved the holes. If I had known how much I need to move them I probably would have just welded the holes shut and redrilled them where they needed to be.
image.pngThen I was able to drill the new hole locations where they needed to be.
image.pngThen I made some 3/4" spacers and tack welded them in place. I had made some temporary mock up spacers out of 3/4" plywood before I made these to be sure they would be the correct thickness. I had a piece of 3/4" thick steel that was just big enough to make these. Just used a hole saw to cut them out and then drilled the center bore to 5/8" to match the rack mount bolts.
image.pngI then welded the spacers around the top 2/3rds so there is no chance of them moving or getting lost. I'm sure these would have been fine not welded in but now I don't have to fumble around with them when installing and removing the rack. Also had to get rack mount bolts that were about an inch longer with the spacers in place.
image.pngWith the rack bolted in place it is now positioned within a 1/16" of so of where the Mustang rack was and just clears the lower control arm mount bolt.
image.pngThen decided to mock up the caliper brackets, calipers and pads to make sure they would clear my 14" wheels that I have. The rotors are 11" dia. so it is tight but they do clear the wheels by a 1/4" or so.
image.pngThen I dropped the engine and a mock up transmission in place before setting up the steering column.
image.pngThen I made a mock up tool to position the steering column. Just some 2 1/4" exhaust tube with some scrap pieces welded in the ends so I could run a 1/4" rod all the way through to mock up it up easier. I taped a piece of wood about where it will bolt to the dash at the approximate drop below the dash it will need to be. Also made this in two pieces, the longer end what will be in the car and the shorter end about what will be in the engine compartment. This made it much easier to tell where it needed to be positioned to have the steering linkage clear everything.
image.pngHere is a better view of how the mock up tube was made. As you can see by the plug I drilled out I wasn't happy with the first 1/4" hole I drilled through the firewall and moved it a bit before drilling the full size hole. Drilling a 1/4" hole worked out good as my holes saws use a 1/4" pilot bit.
image.pngAnd to hold the bottom of the column in place I made a mock up bracket that bolts to the frame. At this point just using some wire to hold the column in place at the dash so I need something to hold the bottom in place that would be consistent each time I put the column in place.
So next time I will be making permanent brackets to hold the column to the dash and then a permanent mount at the bottom of the column to the fire wall at the bottom.
BrIan
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