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Thread: fixing an oil canned hood

  1. #11
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    OK, so no more heat. Go with Planishing... I don't have a pneumatic planisher. So will try this by hand with hammer & dolly I guess. But before I do that, I'll try to get another video moving my thumb around and pressing with the other hand to determine the perimeter. Following Roberts advice on Tight Oil Can- part 2 from above. Stand by for that maybe by tomorrow afternoon. Thanks guys.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  2. #12
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Here's a video of the hood all stripped down, with the braces removed.
    Where do I start planishing?
    (there are no obvious dents...the profile is OK as is now...just oil cans when putting pressure all over the center...
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  3. #13
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    So its these 2 videos that have me thinking about applying heat before lightly planishing...
    Are these guys full of it?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5MVVnsERqc

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU5jfu7uals
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #14
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    The big difference between yours and those two videos.... yours flops easily, a LOOSE oil can. Both of those videos show a very tight oil can, likely cause by body damage or someone getting too happy with a hammer and dolly.


    Heat is what caused your issues.. Why on earth would more heat be the fix? It will cause it to shrink even more, make it more floppy.


    So when you are pressing around the circumference of the oil can, you are doing the entire hood. You have more than one oil can, one should be the perimeter of the heat mark, the other (front) is secondary to that, so leave the front alone for now. Basically the shrinking above the carb fire has pulled the crown of the hood downward, and this disrupted the crown front to back on the hood that supports the entire hood. Leave the front alone. Focus on the oil can in the back of the hood.
    Robert



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  5. #15
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    Echo what Robert said about heat causing the oil can, and not to heat it in an attempt to fix it.

    Also, in the first video, the idiot took a pick hammer to the spot that was heated. This created new damage. And again the use of wet rags or air won't affect the results when you use heat. All it does is it lets you inspect the area sooner to see if you made progress.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 04-05-2020 at 11:34 AM.

  6. #16
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    At 50 seconds is the only area you should be concerned with. Find the perimeter of that oil can alone. Then thumb pressure around the perimeter while cycling the EXACT CENTER of that oil can so we can see what occurs.
    Last edited by MP&C; 04-05-2020 at 10:27 AM.
    Robert



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  7. #17
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Take a look at this video. I'm having trouble determining the exact place to start the planishing. The oil can area is large...

    https://youtu.be/D7KZX-brbro
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #18
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    So looking at what you are doing and the reaction, it does not appear this "trick" works on a loose oil can. Sorry for the runaround, but it's not often you run across a loose oil can to try it out. To clarify though, the center of the oil can should be the center of where that heat mark is located. When you cycle the oil can, that means push in and out on the exact center of the oil can. And stay there. All of the cycling is done on that one oil can AT THE CENTER. The pressure is applied on the perimeter, and cycling the oil can never changes location, only the pressure point on the outer perimeter does. Oh well, practice for you for a tight oil can.

    Now, if you still have the heat spot location on the bottom side visible, the spot that we were looking at needing planishing is where the paint was burned off. But this has me worried:

    The oil can area is large...
    Get that front area out of your mind, it does not need anything done to it. The ONLY area you should be touching should be where the paint burned off underneath, maybe about an inch more outside of that, but then only if profile templates show it as low..

    So what do you have in body hammers, anything with slight crown, like the face on this one?


    IMG_6782.JPG
    Robert



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  9. #19
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    A bit embarrased to say my bodyworking hammer selection is nearly non existent. I have one round & square - flat metalworking hammer, and the others are ball peen type hammers, framing hammers, finish hammers, etc. Nothing that is as rounded as the one you showed. I may be needing one though, eh?
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  10. #20
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Do you have a dolly with a similar crown that matches the underside of the hood without the perimeter of the dolly touching ?
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


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