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Thread: fixing an oil canned hood

  1. #21
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Yes I do. I'll snap a pic of those in the morning and post. Thank you Robert.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  2. #22
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Here's my arsenal of metal banging tools.
    IMG_5870.jpg

    IMG_5871.jpg


    And here's a couple of pics of the hood (with no back bracing...just the sheet metal) sitting in the hole. (sorry...all these pics get rotated 90 degrees and I can't figure out why)

    IMG_5868.jpg

    IMG_5869.jpg
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  3. #23
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    So you will need something that closely matches the crown from the underside. I'd suggest that toe dolly on the bottom. Make sure it's close and that the outer perimeter of the dolly doesn't touch.. Otherwise you will be leaving marks that you don't need. And you'll need a flat large faced body hammer or a spoon/slapper that is near flat. Fucks sake, an Estwing? We're not building a shed here..
    Robert



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  4. #24
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    I have seen quite a few decent 57 hoods at swap meets reasonable, afraid I would end up going that route.

  5. #25
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Fucks sake, an Estwing? We're not building a shed here.
    Bwa ha ha I put that one in there for humor and it apparently worked.

    I'll pick up a flat bodyworking hammer today and work this thing over a bit later. I might also make a cardboard template of several areas of existing profile, so that I have that for a baseline to compare.

    Thanks Robert.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  6. #26
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    I would start only addressing the area that was scorched from the underside. Try to get the dolly-on PING sound when you are striking. I would do a grid or pattern within the scorched area about an inch apart, work the entire area and see the results. If it needs more, offset your strike pattern 1/2” so tou’ll Strike fresh spots, and then reassess. With each successive pattern planishing effort you should start to see the area become less floppy.
    Last edited by MP&C; 04-07-2020 at 07:29 AM.
    Robert



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  7. #27
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Its working. Still in process though. I'll post more later. Thank you!
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #28
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    And leave the front alone!!
    Robert



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  9. #29
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    So I managed to get the driver side area to stiffen up by planishing it (That was the side with the carb fire). And I left the front alone, and it's stiffened up.
    But Im having a challenge getting the rear passenger side to stiffen up with all the planishing I've done there too. Check this out...what should i be doing next?
    Keep lightly planishing there? It does feel like its stiffed up ever-so-slightly since I started, but I've hammered 2x more on that passenger side without the same result as 1x on the driver side.

    Last edited by WagonCrazy; 04-07-2020 at 08:53 PM.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  10. #30
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Have you used a profile template or 3’ ruler or ?? To see how the front to back looks? Is the spot you planished a high spot now, is it a gradual crown front to back as it should be? Now check the loose area the same way. Now check across, left to right in various positions to see if that loose area is dropped any. More importantly, was the “center” planished too much that it’s pulling the low? So the trick with a 3’ ruler is to lay it over at about 45 to 60 degrees so it will tend to follow the contour. If you don’t have one, a 1” wide x 1/16 thick piece of aluminum 3 or 4 foot long from the hardware store serves as a good straight edge and will likely be cheaper than any metal ruler the same length. Use that to see how the panel looks, have a light set up behind so you can look for what light shines through
    Robert



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