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Thread: NON-POWER BRAKES

  1. #21
    Registered Member Old Buzzard's Avatar
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    "You probably need 7/8" or 15/16" with those, but don't take my word for it."

    Rick, exactly what the Wilwood tech told me, when I asked about non power m/c size.
    OP, put a brake pressure gauge on it. You'll find out really quick, if the system is working correctly.

  2. #22
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    I stand corrected, Bama. If there were OEM manual disc brakes available on American cars, I was not aware of them.

    When I ordered my new 1969 Nova SS396, it came with front disc and rear drum brakes. Had to order the SS model to get the L78 engine and the Nova SS cars that year came with front disc brakes and 12-bolt rearends as standard. Only power disc brakes were available. There were no manual disc brakes available for those cars. I asked when ordering.

    That said...... Just because I've never seen an OEM disc brake setup without a power brake booster....... Doesn't mean there were none.

    My apologies,

    Harry

  3. #23
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    We all know a little bit of different knowledge, Harry... that's how/why we're able to help one another here in the forum!~

    WOW... that '69 Nova SS you ordered with the L78 engine... HAD to be very fast! Did you use all your vietnam combat pay on that one?
    I'd LOVE that car right now... (and I don't even like big blocks!)...

  4. #24
    Registered Member Chevy Chase's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    A lot of assumptions being made here.

    What master cylinder do you have and what is the bore size? It should be 1" or smaller. Some brake conversions supply a 1-1/8" bore, but that should only be used with a booster.

    What calipers do you have?

    A proportioning valve is only going to help if the rear brakes lock up - which they should first.

    Big tires and wheels only matter to this question if they are HUGE - like the tires on a lifted truck, etc.
    My 57 Chev sta wgn has manual frt disc brakes, rear drums and dual master cyl with side mounted proportioning valve. The car stops as it should. I think Rick brought up an excellent point regarding the correct master cylinder. However, I disagree with his statement about "the rear brakes lock up - which they should first." I disagree because the front brakes do most of the braking.

    Yes, I did install an adjustable proportioning valve to prevent the rear brakes from locking up first in a panic stop.
    Last edited by Chevy Chase; 07-29-2020 at 11:34 AM.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    If one axle brakes lock up before the other, you prefer it to be the rear brake that lock first, since it tends to maintain steering and vehicle direction better.
    Golly, I have been driving 50 years and that sure as heck ain't how I feel. I have had full on emergency lock ups in my life, (more then I can count in the multi million miles I have driven) and I tell you right now, if the back end locks up it is going to be the front end in very short order.

  6. #26
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Robert: You are right. I deleted my post... I can't explain what I was thinking on that post...

  7. #27
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    I remember my Olds Starfire with the hand held e brake, great for doing Mannix turns.

  8. #28
    Registered Member Chevy Chase's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Robert: You are right. I deleted my post... I can't explain what I was thinking on that post...
    Hey BamaNomad , We all have a brain fart once in a while :>)

  9. #29
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    However, I disagree with his statement about "the rear brakes lock up - which they should first."
    I wasn't very clear here. What I meant is that if the rear brakes lock up first without a proportioning valve, that is the main sign that you need one. If they won't lock up at all, then your attention should be elsewhere.

    If the car's disc conversion uses the typical GM parts, the master cylinder bore should be 1", and the front calipers should be the bigger Chevelle type with 7" between the anchor bolts - not the Malibu/S10 calipers that are 5.5" between the anchor bolts.

  10. #30
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    My 55 had this issue, the guy who started my 55 used a crappy Speedway disk kit with Metric calipers. I switched to Chevelle stuff and improved it

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