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  1. #1
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    decode the stamp pad

    OK now before everyone goes nuts i dont know where to find this info, is there a decoding section at tri five to decode my engine stamp pad and body tag thanks...

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    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Danchuk has a section in their catalog (Sec 17) which gives most of the original specification data for our cars. You should be able to find it there since you want to look it up yourself..

    https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...inal-Specs.pdf

    PS. MOST of the vendors maintain such sections (probably to help their sales people more than helping their customers)..

    If you can't find what you're looking for, then hit us with your detailed questions..

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    engine stamp pad

    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Danchuk has a section in their catalog (Sec 17) which gives most of the original specification data for our cars. You should be able to find it there since you want to look it up yourself..

    https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...inal-Specs.pdf

    PS. MOST of the vendors maintain such sections (probably to help their sales people more than helping their customers)..

    If you can't find what you're looking for, then hit us with your detailed questions..
    hello bama is there a way to decode the engine stamp pad # 02943I2T55FB the engine is a 55 265 4 barrel TY

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    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadster601@aol.com View Post
    hello bama is there a way to decode the engine stamp pad # 02943I2T55FB the engine is a 55 265 4 barrel TY
    Yes, The first V8s (1955) were a little different than later, as

    1) the first set of numbers (0294312) is a sequence number for the engine (think of it as the 'engine serial number'). In a few states, this stamping was used as the vehicle serial number on the title, as VIN plates were new at the time.

    The remainder of the engine stamping is more consistent with later years.

    2) The 'T' means the engine was assembled at the GM Tonawanda (NY) engine plant.
    3) '55' is of course the model year.
    4) and the suffix 'FB' indicates a 4-bbl, 205 hp 265 ci, driving a Powerglide trans in the Passenger car.

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    stamp pad

    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Yes, The first V8s (1955) were a little different than later, as

    1) the first set of numbers (0294312) is a sequence number for the engine (think of it as the 'engine serial number'). In a few states, this stamping was used as the vehicle serial number on the title, as VIN plates were new at the time.

    The remainder of the engine stamping is more consistent with later years.

    2) The 'T' means the engine was assembled at the GM Tonawanda (NY) engine plant.
    3) '55' is of course the model year.
    4) and the suffix 'FB' indicates a 4-bbl, 205 hp 265 ci, driving a Powerglide trans in the Passenger car.

    lou here, bama on my vin is C55T084072, I read on the vin plate if the number set up should begin with a letter V for v8 if no letter it was a six cylinder or did it vary from state to state..

  6. #6
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    1955 2 DR Post
    1937 Chevy Coupe
    2023 Ford Super Duty F350 TREMOR
    2019 Corvette Z06
    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1935 Ford 2dr Slant back I have 4

  7. #7
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Roadster: There's not many (if any?) organizations which do a detailed judging of our trifives any longer. AACA still judges all antique car models (including ours), but with so many different cars it's impossible for anyone to be familiar with minute details of all of them (or perhaps even any of them?).. If you progressed thru local AACA, then to regional and finally to National AACA competition in judging, there are likely to be persons familiar enough to deduct points for the 'incorrect' engine, but you'd also GET many points for the correct aspects of your 1955 V8 engine.


    That said, my suggestion for you would be to choose "What you want'"...

    1) If you want an absolutely factory original car, and Want to do the learning/work necessary to convert your car back to absolute factory originality, and you can afford the cost, and time, then do so. The downside of that approach is.. IF the persons who converted your convertible to a V8 also made 'other' changes to be consistent with that, then the job is not going to be an easy one.

    2) IF you LIKE the car the way it is (wtih a V8), then keep it that way. If you want that 'Original' look, then keep/maintain it that way (just as if a V8 came in your car). It already has a 1955 V8 engine in it (and I assume lots of other items to be consistent with that). I suspect you could take it to ANY LOCAL/REGIONAL car show and represent it as 'original' and very few if any persons would examine the VIN plate closely enough to say to you that it had the 'wrong engine' in it... And it's probably worth more $$ with the V8 in it, even if it originally came with a 235 ci engine.

    Bottom line: It's YOUR car, so build it for yourself... and those of us here will be very willing to help you in the details and making decisions etc... Good luck!

  8. #8
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    vin

    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Roadster: There's not many (if any?) organizations which do a detailed judging of our trifives any longer. AACA still judges all antique car models (including ours), but with so many different cars it's impossible for anyone to be familiar with minute details of all of them (or perhaps even any of them?).. If you progressed thru local AACA, then to regional and finally to National AACA competition in judging, there are likely to be persons familiar enough to deduct points for the 'incorrect' engine, but you'd also GET many points for the correct aspects of your 1955 V8 engine.


    That said, my suggestion for you would be to choose "What you want'"...

    1) If you want an absolutely factory original car, and Want to do the learning/work necessary to convert your car back to absolute factory originality, and you can afford the cost, and time, then do so. The downside of that approach is.. IF the persons who converted your convertible to a V8 also made 'other' changes to be consistent with that, then the job is not going to be an easy one.

    2) IF you LIKE the car the way it is (wtih a V8), then keep it that way. If you want that 'Original' look, then keep/maintain it that way (just as if a V8 came in your car). It already has a 1955 V8 engine in it (and I assume lots of other items to be consistent with that). I suspect you could take it to ANY LOCAL/REGIONAL car show and represent it as 'original' and very few if any persons would examine the VIN plate closely enough to say to you that it had the 'wrong engine' in it... And it's probably worth more $$ with the V8 in it, even if it originally came with a 235 ci engine.

    Bottom line: It's YOUR car, so build it for yourself... and those of us here will be very willing to help you in the details and making decisions etc... Good luck!
    i did the Corvette ncrs thing for 10 years was president of our club so i know what your saying about originality and the cost, i agree with with every thing you said. i did many cars and and tried to get them pretty perfect so ill look forward.
    bama thanks for that i was bummed out before, got caught up in the beauty of the car. for me will go to local shows to be honest just feel i been had, i been doing Restoration work for 40 years it is time to finish my car when i get done ill try to figure how to post pictures again bama and all Ty

  9. #9
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    Another one from this site


    http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachm...4&d=1519397744

    Thanks Sid

    1955 2 DR Post
    1937 Chevy Coupe
    2023 Ford Super Duty F350 TREMOR
    2019 Corvette Z06
    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1935 Ford 2dr Slant back I have 4

  10. #10
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    There is an engine number as described above and a VIN on the body. They are different, but every original car had both.

    Bama's comment was about which of these is on the title.

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