Nice progress, great idea running the battery cables through the plastic block!
Nice progress, great idea running the battery cables through the plastic block!
Thanks Brian, I like to help battery cable penetrations anchored pretty solidly and the blocks work well.
It's been a while since I updated progress. I have started working on the wiring. I mount most of the electrical components together on a plate. I prefer this approach, rather than mounting them throughout the car. This makes it easier to locate, troubleshoot, and maintain the electrical system. It does require more wire, but that's ok for me. A good location for the components is the spare tire well in the trunk, alongside the battery. The electrical component plate was laid out and then machined, painted and assembled. After this, the components were bolted to the plate, and are now ready for wiring. A number of terminal strips have been used, some for mounting blocking diodes, some for signals, and some from gathering grounds since the body is non-conducting.
In order to run the wires to the interior, wiring channels needed to be created from the trunk. Square tubes were made and bonded between the trunk and the gas tank area, then an opening cut in the gas tank area to the interior. This keeps the wires hidden in both the trunk and interior. Harnesses are planned for the major wiring groups and will be terminated in the interior with connectors. That way most of the wiring can be accomplished on the bench and not on my back inside the vehicle. It also results in fewer random point to point wires under the dash.
Comment: I'm having a problem loading pictures the way I used to, with comments between them. So, they are all in a group below.
Wiring is fun. How you coming along Richard?
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.
Took some time off, Paul. Just returned from a 2 week trip thru the Caribbean. It reached 4 degrees in Huntsville just before we left, and I’d had enough! The cold weather gets to me.
Concerning the wiring, most of the wire harnesses are run from the panel, and the majority are terminated. I have a couple interface harnesses to make, then it’s connect wires to the panel.
Good to hear you are taking some time off from this hobby. That's good for everyone once in a while.
And glad to hear you are moving steadily thru the wiring process and this new/old vette will be on the road impressing everyone who sees it.
Carry on!
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.
Been working a few things on the Corvette lately. The electrical panel is wired and about done with checks on it. Next is to mount it in the spare tire well and connect up the harnesses. After checking that out, we're done with the wiring.
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Also, we put the steering column, gauge bezel and steering wheel on, hopefully for the final time. Column and gauges are all wired to the harnesses going to the rear where the electrical panel is located.
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We've also been getting really for starting the Corvette, and have installed temporary header pipes needed for the O2 sensors. The pipes will be replaced when the actual exhaust pipes and mufflers are installed, but these will work for breaking the motor in.
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We have yet to install the a/c evaporator unit. Also, we need bleed the brakes and clutch, add radiator coolant and the Corvette should be close to firing up. It's getting there...
The electrical panel is installed and all wires connected. There are a few wires to connect in the interior, then a little time to check things out and ensure it all works. At that point, we're finally done with the electrical.
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The stereo amplifier was the last item to be mounted. It was placed on the passenger side behind the inner fender. A spacer/plate was made to get the amp under the fender to clear trunk upholstery.
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In addition to the wiring, we took time and bled the brakes and hydraulic clutch. It shouldn't be long before we crank it up...
The Vintage Air heater/air conditioning unit is installed under the dash, plumbed and wired. The heat and air hoses were routed through the firewall, using a fabricated aluminum clam shell, between the inner and outer fenders. In order to get the CPE heater hose and PTFE air hose lengths to the firewall, a plate was used to mockup the firewall. This was also used to get the heater control valve output hose length.
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Once this was done, hose lengths were measured to the inner fender and on to the hoses connections. With this, the hoses were attached to the evaporator unit for the final time, fittings attached to the other ends, and the unit mounted to the firewall.
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Then the heater control valve was mounted and connected to the heater hoses. Most connections were made using Gates Power Grip shrink tubes. The top heater control valve connection is a standard hose clamp, though. Given its location, I was concerned with being able to get a heat gun completely around the grip. The hoses are routed through the inner fender using an aluminum clam shell, and the end connections made to the compressor and dryer.
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There's still a little work to do under the hood. The #8 line going from the compressor to the condenser still needs to be made. Turns out that the #8 PTFE hose I have and the #8 fittings I have aren't compatible: the hose lining diameter was too big for the fitting. So, new hose and fittings were ordered from the same supplier (not a Jegs or Summit).
The other remaining item is to make an aluminum clam shell block to hold the 4 hoses off the inner fender in the engine compartment. These 2 items will finish up the heater/air work and allow us to charge it after the motor has been started and broke in.
Last edited by TrifiveRichard; 04-14-2024 at 01:56 PM.
It's looking great Richard!