56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
What banjo fittings did you use and where did you get them?
Did you really sign up here just to ask me that one question?Welcome to the site.....you should do a proper intro and tell us a little about your project.
I got all the parts from Summit Racing. The banjos I used are simple parts....can't remember the size but I think they're 12mm or 7/16" and the bolts are metric. Both are the same size and I think they're Russell fittings. I could look up my past orders and see if I can find them if you can't find the right size. Hoses are An-4 teflon lined stainless braided high pressure hose. In order to make the hoses lay right I used a 90 on one hose end.
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56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I did sign up to see about the changes to the steering rack yes! My C4 steering is on the front of a 1936 Dodge truck. I restore and work on almost everything. Been doing it since 1975. Lots of tri 5 Chevys over the years. I appreciate the info. The best tech always comes from those that have done it!
Followed the ideas on this page and managed to use the original pipes, with the help of a pipe bender.
Does anything need resealing, or a rotation and new holes still maintain the integrity of the seal?IMG_9557.jpg
Thanks, great post I know this is an old thread but I'm clocking my C4. I have the tubes rotated, when I drill new holes do I need to pull the R&P tubes apart to clean out the drilled bits or not worry about it? Also, one of the screw/rivets didn't survive, shall I thread in a new bolt? I can't imagine anyone would sell those.
Here's what Laszlo says in an earlier post:When I drilled mine, I don't remember pulling them apart and cleaning out the shavings. I just remember using grease to catch as many as possible.Once you have the cylinder rotated, get a drill bit of the appropriate size (I don't remember what I used). Make sure it's smaller than the OD of the rivet so it can cut new "threads". Put grease on the drill bit and being very careful to clean the chips off now and then, drill both holes. Then all you have to do is drive the "rivets" back in with a hammer.
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.
As to your question about replacing the knurled pin with a bolt, I suppose that would work if you make sure the bolt doesnt protrude any deeper inside than the pin would.
Here's a good technical writeup of rebuilding a C4 rack. Maybe this will shed some clues to your dissasembly questions?
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/re...nion-steering/
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.