Sorry for the delay here, I've been busy working on the house and not checking the computer that much.... Let me do my best to answer all of your questions between the last 2 posts.

Regarding your amp selection, the Rockford Fosgate R600X5 (also kind of answers the 5 channel amp vs 4 channel + a sub amp)

Judging by the specs listed for the amp I don't think that you will be able to mix and match impedance between the door speakers and the sub while retaining 4 channel speaker control ( basically you will lose the fade between front and rear speakers, and you will have to wire all 4 door speakers in PARALLEL to run at a 2ohm load) See chart below

If you hooked up the amp in 4 channel mode, the amp will default to whatever the higher ohm value is (which is your door speakers @ 4 ohm). So the door speakers would run @ 50 watts and the sub would be running @ 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohm).

Below are the specs from crutchfield notice how the only mix and match is specific and running bridged on 2 channels.


  • 5-channel car amplifier
  • 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
  • 75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
  • 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

I've always wanted to run a single 5 channel amp, but never quite found an amp for my application that was efficient enough and cost effective. It's almost always cheaper/better (unless space is a big issue) to just run multiple amps and wire each to application for specific impedance without leaving efficiency on the table.


Shallow Mount SUBS and 500W sub vs. 300W SUB

Regarding the shallow mount subs.. I haven't ever installed one that I honestly felt was worth the extra $$ or the hassle.. (It has been 4 years or so since I've put one in). They're usually just, meh IMO.......

Here are the size specs for shallow sub you posted vs. the Kicker 10" L7 that I prefer. These are the exterior box dimensions, the Kicker is smaller in the width, and only slightly larger in the height and depth..


Rockford Fosgate P300-10T

Width: 23-3/8"
Height:=13-3/8"
Depth One: 8-9/16"
Depth Two: 5-3/4"


Kicker TS10L7


  • Width: 21-1/2"
  • Height: 15"
  • Depth One: 10"
  • Depth Two: 6-11/16"



Whats most important is matching impedance and maximizing efficiency, a speakers job is to move air... To put it in engine terms, If you slap a huge flowing set of cylinder heads on a Chevy 305, whats going to happen? Or if you put a restrictive intake/MAF/Carb on a well built 350 long block whats going to happen?

Regarding your quote "I'm not looking for any heavy-duty thumping".. That's why I'm recommending a 10" L7... It is tight, punchy, responds quickly.... kick drums, stand up basses, and low frequency string instruments, etc... It's the best overall sub I've ever heard, I find most subs to be laggy, engineered for thump, and mostly for music that I don't care to listen to... but it absolutely will also "thump" if you want it to.


Ported VS. Vented Enclosures

The sub will usually dictate which type of enclosure to be used. The L7 uses a vented (ported) enclosure, and that's what helps it shine in such a small space. If you follow the sealed box specs for the L7, the box has to be considerably larger. I prefer subs with ported enclosures, I find most sealed box subs are for "thump".. but again, its what the sub calls for, I haven't heard them all so I hate to make a blanket generalization.

Amp location

Generally speaking, you don't usually have to access them once you have them dialed in. I usually spend a day or so tuning my system, which requires access to the amp occasionally to change settings. (crossover points, gains, etc). You could probably dial it in ahead of time, and tweak via the built in EQ on your kenwood reciever.. So i wouldn't be too worried about hiding them.

RCA connections / Speaker Level

Yes, get shielded twisted pair RCA's. Speaker level connections are an amplified signal from the amp in the head unit (reciever), the signal is then "de-amplified" inside the external amp and then re-amplified, thus degrading signal quality.

IMPEDANCE
Impedance can be tricky when dealing with Single voice coil speakers and dual voice coil subs. Here's an additional article on single voice coil wiring to supplement the other article I posted.

Single Voice Coil wiring

You are correct regarding my statement on my DVC L7 wiring, I wired in parallel, not in series (as I incorrectly stated) for a load @ 2ohm.

Power Cabling
I always run my 4 gauge wires directly to the battery or alternator take off, and run it straight back to the amp. They make distribution blocks as well, so you can run 1 wire back to a distribution block, then split that power between multiple amps... I usually run 4 gauge on everything I install


Picking Amp VS. SUB

I pick the SUB first based on how it sounds and the application it is for, then I find an amp to power it that matches the specs... But to be honest, since I came across the 10" kicker (started with an L5 10 years ago, now I'm on the L7's) I haven't installed anything else in any of my personal vehicles.. I have one in the audi and one in the silverado as we speak.

Let me know if I missed questions or if I can help answer anything else...