Graphite 50 Anti Sieze

[JT56]

Does anyone know where you can get a small tubes of this stuff? Was told this stuff is what is used for temp sensors ect...

[markm]

I think Fastenal or Grangers would be good places to look.

[Run-em]

Amazon.com, Sears.com, Granger have some of the large cans.

[JT56]

Amazon.com, Sears.com, Granger have some of the large cans.

I didn't want to purchase the large can.

[chevynut]

I think you can get graphite-based anti-sieze made by Permatex from Autozone or other auto parts stores. It shouldn't be that hard to find.

[Rick_L]

I use Permatex "Never Seize". You can get it from most any auto supply or industrial supply.

I don't think it has graphite, but it works for everything I use it for.

I prefer teflon tape or paste for pipe threads though. Just my preference, I think Never Seize will work for many applications using pipe thread.

[chevynut]

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3 *NFPA Fire Code 30B

http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

[Rick_L]

Well there you go, it does have graphite.

I remember my boss from the old days when we were designing/building/retrofitting heavy equipment. We used it on a lot of mechanical joints. He could walk in the shop and 2 minutes later be covered in it, hands/face/shirt. Some of the mechanics could use it all day and never have to wipe their hands.

[JT56]

I think you can get graphite-based anti-sieze made by Permatex from Autozone or other auto parts stores. It shouldn't be that hard to find.

The Loctite Graphite 50 is what Jake from Classic Instruments suggested I use. Here is the problem; my gauge is showing about 20 degrees higher than the actual water temperature. The sender has the correct pipe size without having to use a bushing. CI sent me another sender to change out. I currently used regular anti sieze, but Jake said to use the 50, since it will have better electrical conductivity than the regular.

[Rick_L]

The electrical contact between the sender and block is not your issue if it's pipe thread.

[JT56]

The electrical contact between the sender and block is not your issue if it's pipe thread.

Rick what are your thoughts. I have a PRC crossflow, system checks with no leaks. The gauge sender has its "own" wire. My electric fans run on a separate sender. I have taken temps with IR gun and thermometer in radiator, so I know the gauge is ready wrong. He said teflon wasn't the best thing to use for this application. Jake suggested I try this new sender, but use the Loctite stuff. If not then maybe the gauge is faulty. On CI website Jake is listed as an electrical engineer? I am putting a/c on this car and freek out when I see temps in the 212 to 230 range when its 49 degrees outside. BTW, checked my timing and I'm good there.I am hopeful this will fix the problem;if not then pull out gauges:(

Joey

[chevynut]

JT, it is possible, but not likely imo, that your teflon tape sealant is causing the reading error. Usually the pipe threads cut through the teflon and make good contact. BUt I would certainly try the other sealant to make sure.

I'm really skeptical of IR gun measurements, because they are dependent on the emissivity of the surface you're measuring. Also, what kind of thermometerare you using in the radiator? Have you checked it for accuracy in a pot of boiling water?

IMO I would go ahead with replacing the sender and using the Loctite sealant. If that doesn't change anything, you can go from there with the knowledge that the sender isn't your problem.

[Rick_L]

Is your sender screwed into an engine component?

Put an ohmeter between the sender case and the block, or a good ground. If it reads any resistance at all, then you may have a case. I think it will read 0 ohms, if so that's not your problem.

I would try the new sender next.

[chevynut]

The other question might be the sender location. I have read that a sender in the head can read significantly higher than one in the intake. I think you're trying to get coolant temperature, not head temperature.

[JT56]

JT, it is possible, but not likely imo, that your teflon tape sealant is causing the reading error. Usually the pipe threads cut through the teflon and make good contact. BUt I would certainly try the other sealant to make sure.

I'm really skeptical of IR gun measurements, because they are dependent on the emissivity of the surface you're measuring. Also, what kind of thermometerare you using in the radiator? Have you checked it for accuracy in a pot of boiling water? I am using a turkey thermometer from Walmart. It was pretty close when I tested in the boiling water. Initially used the IR gun to check, but do understand the surface temp isn't the most accurate.

IMO I would go ahead with replacing the sender and using the Loctite sealant. If that doesn't change anything, you can go from there with the knowledge that the sender isn't your problem. I was hoping this would be a process of elimination, just didn't want to buy the large jar of the 50. Will keep everyone updated. Thanks for all the reply's.

[NickP]

The Loctite Graphite 50 is what Jake from Classic Instruments suggested I use. Here is the problem; my gauge is showing about 20 degrees higher than the actual water temperature. The sender has the correct pipe size without having to use a bushing. CI sent me another sender to change out. I currently used regular anti sieze, but Jake said to use the 50, since it will have better electrical conductivity than the regular.

"LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive,non-metallic anti-sieze • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- to metal joints• Spark plugs onengines" -
Seems like there may be something in what CI referenced as a product. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=loctite%20graphite%2050%20anti%20seize&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CH0QFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.loctite.ph%2Fphp%2Fcontent_da ta%2FLT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf&ei=QtpRUc2KNoaZqgHwiIHABA&usg=AFQjCNGglauP71Q-nptEoVqpKDInpW3Brw&bvm=bv.44342787,d.b2I
However, the properties of the mechanical joint between male and female part (Sender & Cyl. Head or Manifold) certainly would indicate that fault lies more in line with the sender than the joint. By what you say it looks as though you had another temprature indicating device for a comparitive of readings - yes/no.

[JT56]

"LOCTITE® GRAPHITE-50™ • Highly electrically conductive,non-metallic anti-sieze • Highly electrically conductive in metal-to- to metal joints• Spark plugs onengines" -
Seems like there may be something in what CI referenced as a product. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=loctite%20graphite%2050%20anti%20seize&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CH0QFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.loctite.ph%2Fphp%2Fcontent_da ta%2FLT3683_Loctite_AntiSeize_Brochure.pdf&ei=QtpRUc2KNoaZqgHwiIHABA&usg=AFQjCNGglauP71Q-nptEoVqpKDInpW3Brw&bvm=bv.44342787,d.b2I
However, the properties of the mechanical joint between male and female part (Sender & Cyl. Head or Manifold) certainly would indicate that fault lies more in line with the sender than the joint. By what you say it looks as though you had another temprature indicating device for a comparitive of readings - yes/no.
Its located in the intake( driver side of t-stat housing). The passenger side has a sender for electric fans. Yes have taken reading with another device. While I lowered the coolant level to change sender, wanted to make sure it wasn't a sealant issue. I have tried not using anything and I always have leaks.