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JJ55
08-01-2013, 01:50 PM
I have finished the completion of my Nerd Rods DIY chassis and things turned out great however:eek: I have a few question that I'm hoping to get some help on and Russell at Nerd Rods has some family issue going on and doesnt have time to help at the moment. I'm wondering if anyone can help with this question I sent Russell.... Do you have a drawing that shows (dimensionally)
the relationship between the body mounts and the centerline of the rear axle and the front spindles? And if you do have those numbers have they been proven to be correct by others that have their bodies installed. I know this question assumes the mounts are located correctly on the chassis but I need to start somewhere. Once I have verified the numbers I will set the body on to make sure things look correct. I have a couple other questions but since this is my first post on this site I'll keep it to a minimum. I'm sure happy to see Chevynut is on this site, this guys work is awesome. Jason

NickP
08-01-2013, 02:45 PM
Jason those dimensions are in the drawings in the manual - here in the library. The frame checking drawing is 2-15. Pages 36 to 50 on the sites 55 manual (pdf for download) will give you all of the dims for all mounts. As to their correctness, that is what we all go by. All of my chassis are built to those numbers. If you need to chat to get a better idea of what you need, feel free to call. BTW, pics of your progress would be really cool!

chevynut
08-01-2013, 05:39 PM
Hi Jason, glad to see you on the site.

I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you looking for horizontal dimensions between body mounts and axle centerlines, or vertical?

JJ55
08-01-2013, 07:26 PM
Horizontal, trying to make sure the tires will land in the correct spot in the wheel well,others have has issues. Does the knuckle set in front of the third member or behind
Hi Jason, glad to see you on the site.

I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you looking for horizontal dimensions between body mounts and axle centerlines, or vertical?

NickP
08-01-2013, 07:37 PM
Horizontal, trying to make sure the tires will land in the correct spot in the wheel well,others have has issues. Does the knuckle set in front of the third member or behind
I guess I'm confused. Isn't this chassis designed on CAD? If the same set of drawings I referenced were used by the designer to create what you purchased as a kit and apparently welded per his guidelines where is the issue? The batwing locates the rear third member section and the four dogbones in turn locate the knuckles. If your lower rear strut rods are in backwards then you can have an issue but the dogbones set the knuckle. Is your rear section assembled?

JJ55
08-01-2013, 07:42 PM
Thanks for the info! I'll try to get some pictures posted, hope I can figure it out:confused:
Jason those dimensions are in the drawings in the manual - here in the library. The frame checking drawing is 2-15. Pages 36 to 50 on the sites 55 manual (pdf for download) will give you all of the dims for all mounts. As to their correctness, that is what we all go by. All of my chassis are built to those numbers. If you need to chat to get a better idea of what you need, feel free to call. BTW, pics of your progress would be really cool!

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:01 PM
Yes it assembled and I'm not sure I have any issues but before I go through the struggle of setting the body on I would like to double check any measurements that make good sense. I know that at least one guy had problems and the correction was adjustable dog-bones so I'm trying to avoid this by checking the knuckle relationship with the body mounts. I have a bunch of photos on my wife's Facebook but not sure how to get them over to here.

NickP
08-01-2013, 08:05 PM
Thanks for the info! I'll try to get some pictures posted, hope I can figure it out:confused:
Is something not lining up? Somewhere on the chassis, there should be some type of reference mark or set of marks that shows where the front axle CL is or a relationship to it. On GM's tri five chassis there are a set of holes that lie under the upper control arms forming the gage hole centerline. I doubt there is such a reference on your chassis but if there is, the front axle center line is two inches toward the rear and 117" to the rear from that lies the rear axle centerline. Let us help you out on this. Some here know the drawings by heart. I'm unfamiliar with your frame and its design but as a simple reference, from the center line of the lower radiator crossmember it's 13.380" to the front axle centerline. I have the dims on AutoCAD if you need.

NickP
08-01-2013, 08:07 PM
Yes it assembled and I'm not sure I have any issues but before I go through the struggle of setting the body on I would like to double check any measurements that make good sense. I know that at least one guy had problems and the correction was adjustable dog-bones so I'm trying to avoid this by checking the knuckle relationship with the body mounts. I have a bunch of photos on my wife's Facebook but not sure how to get them over to here.
Send me an invite to her FB account. Nick Prime in Forney, TX

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:10 PM
I got her working on it, should see it soon
Send me an invite to her FB account. Nick Prime in Forney, TX

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:13 PM
She sent it, theirs an album that's titled Jason's 55 Chevy frame
Send me an invite to her FB account. Nick Prime in Forney, TX

chevynut
08-01-2013, 08:14 PM
The rear knuckle is supposed to sit slightly behind the center section. In other words, the halfshafts point outward and slightly back.

IMO this is the problem with trying to build a frame without a jig...you never know where things are going to end up. Also, I never have liked bolt-in k-members. GM used them, but they had braces in front and behind of the k-member to the frame.

Hope it all works out for you. I would check the 115" wheelbase and the squareness and flatness of the frame before I did anything else.

NickP
08-01-2013, 08:18 PM
Looking very nice Jason. What are the two items, top and bottom, bolted to the front of the chassis? Is this some type of jig to locate members prior to welding? https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/255295_10151077921256306_106605122_n.jpg

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:19 PM
A drawing would great! when I bought the frame Russell was still working on drawings but I still haven't seen them, not saying he's not helpful but I prefer drawings
Is something not lining up? Somewhere on the chassis, there should be some type of reference mark or set of marks that shows where the front axle CL is or a relationship to it. On GM's tri five chassis there are a set of holes that lie under the upper control arms forming the gage hole centerline. I doubt there is such a reference on your chassis but if there is, the front axle center line is two inches toward the rear and 117" to the rear from that lies the rear axle centerline. Let us help you out on this. Some here know the drawings by heart. I'm unfamiliar with your frame and its design but as a simple reference, from the center line of the lower radiator crossmember it's 13.380" to the front axle centerline. I have the dims on AutoCAD if you need.

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:22 PM
Yes the kit came with a few jigs and a ton of pieces I've done more work on since those pictures, plan to update Facebook tomorrow
Looking very nice Jason. What are the two items, top and bottom, bolted to the front of the chassis? Is this some type of jig to locate members prior to welding?

NickP
08-01-2013, 08:22 PM
A drawing would great! when I bought the frame Russell was still working on drawings but I still haven't seen them, not saying he's not helpful but I prefer drawings
Do you have AutoCAD or do you want it in a ".pdf"? email address? Please remember, all my drawing shown is x and y Dims, no z and no placement of any C4 suspension parts.

chevynut
08-01-2013, 08:25 PM
Somewhere on the chassis, there should be some type of reference mark or set of marks that shows where the front axle CL is or a relationship to it. On GM's tri five chassis there are a set of holes that lie under the upper control arms forming the gage hole centerline.

We cut that datum hole off of our conversion frames, but we use the bumper bolt holes for reference locations, as they were specified in the GM drawings from the datum. They are actually pretty accurate, more so than the body mounts since they're punched into the frame rails along with the other features.


Some here know the drawings by heart.

I almost do. ;)

Without bumper bolt holes, datum holes, or anything else to go off of maybe the best bet is the body mounts and radiator support. It's kinda hard to accurately measure the axle locations, but it can be done with a plumb bob and marks on the floor. If it's off, I would suspect more things wrong with the frame.

NickP
08-01-2013, 08:27 PM
We cut that datum hole off of our conversion frames, but we use the bumper bolt holes for reference locations, as they were specified in the GM drawings from the datum. They are actually pretty accurate, more so than the body mounts since they're punched into the frame rails along with the other features.



I almost do. ;)

Without bumper bolt holes, datum holes, or anything else to go off of maybe the best bet is the body mounts and radiator support. It's kinda hard to accurately measure the axle locations, but it can be done with a plumb bob and marks on the floor. If it's off, I would suspect more things wrong with the frame.
That's what bothers me too Laszlo, no reference points to go from.

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:29 PM
The frame is square and flat! great that I had a 6'X 12'x 2" thick machine ground table to build it on but not 100% sure on the wheelbase, I'm hanging the front suspension tomorrow afternoon. I welded my K member in place, no bolts
The rear knuckle is supposed to sit slightly behind the center section. In other words, the halfshafts point outward and slightly back.

IMO this is the problem with trying to build a frame without a jig...you never know where things are going to end up. Also, I never have liked bolt-in k-members. GM used them, but they had braces in front and behind of the k-member to the frame.

Hope it all works out for you. I would check the 115" wheelbase and the squareness and flatness of the frame before I did anything else.

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:40 PM
Pdf please, Jason.Johnson@srpnet.com (Jason.Johnson@srpnet.com)
Do you have AutoCAD or do you want it in a ".pdf"? email address? Please remember, all my drawing shown is x and y Dims, no z and no placement of any C4 suspension parts.

NickP
08-01-2013, 08:41 PM
JJ, looking at this picture I have a question. The two holes are for the dogbones. Are they just through holes or is there a tube in each and welded in place? https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/549727_10151092582711306_1172452758_n.jpg

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:42 PM
Chevynut do you have a Facebook account
We cut that datum hole off of our conversion frames, but we use the bumper bolt holes for reference locations, as they were specified in the GM drawings from the datum. They are actually pretty accurate, more so than the body mounts since they're punched into the frame rails along with the other features.



I almost do. ;)

Without bumper bolt holes, datum holes, or anything else to go off of maybe the best bet is the body mounts and radiator support. It's kinda hard to accurately measure the axle locations, but it can be done with a plumb bob and marks on the floor. If it's off, I would suspect more things wrong with the frame.

JJ55
08-01-2013, 08:44 PM
there's a heavy tube that's welded in, should be in the other photo's
JJ, looking at this picture I have a question. The two holes are for the dogbones. Are they just through holes or is there a tube in each and welded in place? https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/549727_10151092582711306_1172452758_n.jpg

chevynut
08-01-2013, 08:54 PM
The frame is square and flat! great that I had a 6'X 12'x 2" thick machine ground table to build it on but not 100% sure on the wheelbase, I'm hanging the front suspension tomorrow afternoon. I welded my K member in place, no bolts

Cool, sounds like you had the right equipment to do the job. And it's good to see that you didn't use the bolt-in k-member. Personally I think it looks bad and it's scary to me to have the entire k-member secured by only 8 small bolts.

The GM drawings pretty much have everything you need, but there is a little calculation required for some dimensions. I went through all that when I built my frame jig. Since you KNOW where your k-member has to sit, and it's welded in already, I would use the front axle centerline as the reference point. The only issue is that you have to align the suspension to the proper 6 degree caster to use it. If you have your a-arm spacers, using them and two one-eight inch shims in front and back will set the suspension close to where it's supposed to be. The thick spacer goes in front. Then set the toe and measure the radiator support centerline and rear axle centerline from there. You could also measure the body mount locations if you want.

Let's see some pics!!

JJ55
08-01-2013, 09:03 PM
Do you have a Facebook account?
Cool, sounds like you had the right equipment to do the job. And it's good to see that you didn't use the bolt-in k-member. Personally I think it looks bad and it's scary to me to have the entire k-member secured by only 8 small bolts.

The GM drawings pretty much have everything you need, but there is a little calculation required for some dimensions. I went through all that when I built my frame jig. Since you KNOW where your k-member has to sit, and it's welded in already, I would use the front axle centerline as the reference point. The only issue is that you have to align the suspension to the proper 6 degree caster to use it. If you have your a-arm spacers, using them and two one-eight inch shims in front and back will set the suspension close to where it's supposed to be. The thick spacer goes in front. Then set the toe and measure the radiator support centerline and rear axle centerline from there. You could also measure the body mount locations if you want.

Let's see some pics!!

chevynut
08-01-2013, 09:06 PM
Yes I do....Laszlo Nobi

JJ55
08-01-2013, 09:21 PM
My wife will friend request you in a couple minutes there's and album called Jason's 55 Chevy frame, I plan to update some progress tomorrow
Yes I do....Laszlo Nobi

JJ55
08-01-2013, 09:40 PM
Can you clarify the shims comment:confused:
Cool, sounds like you had the right equipment to do the job. And it's good to see that you didn't use the bolt-in k-member. Personally I think it looks bad and it's scary to me to have the entire k-member secured by only 8 small bolts.

The GM drawings pretty much have everything you need, but there is a little calculation required for some dimensions. I went through all that when I built my frame jig. Since you KNOW where your k-member has to sit, and it's welded in already, I would use the front axle centerline as the reference point. The only issue is that you have to align the suspension to the proper 6 degree caster to use it. If you have your a-arm spacers, using them and two one-eight inch shims in front and back will set the suspension close to where it's supposed to be. The thick spacer goes in front. Then set the toe and measure the radiator support centerline and rear axle centerline from there. You could also measure the body mount locations if you want.

Let's see some pics!!

chevynut
08-02-2013, 08:04 AM
Hi Jason, I took a look at your album....looks like you're doing a really nice job of putting that frame together. Your welding and craftsmanship looks great. You said you welded your k-member in, but your pics don't show any k-member. Actually that might be good since you can check the axle centerlines before you weld it in.

There are a couple of things I noticed that you may want to check before you put the body on. It's not obvious to me that you'll be able to remove your driveshaft without removing the differential. The cutout in the rear crossmember is pretty narrow and not very deep vertically. I just wonder if the driveshaft will clear the center section and slide out with the body on. I'm building a frame right now and we had to address that since it's getting an AME-type center section.

I don't see any swaybar mounts....do you still have to install them? What about rear axle bumpers?

What are the 4 tabs on the rear crossmember for, a pinon support?

https://sphotos-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/426997_10151077919826306_1254742351_n.jpg

It looks like you have bumper bolt holes in the frame. I would check the length from the frontmost bumper bolt holes to the rearmost bumper bolt holes. The dimensions are in the GM drawings. Frames have a tendency to "shrink" with all the welding so I'm curious how that turned out since there is so much welding on that frame. If that's okay, I would check the radiator support location and the axle centerlines from those reference points.

Keep posting pics here. All you have to do is cut and paste from your album.

JJ55
08-02-2013, 09:27 AM
Thank you, your work is awesome
Hi Jason, I took a look at your album....looks like you're doing a really nice job of putting that frame together. Your welding and craftsmanship looks great. You said you welded your k-member in, but your pics don't show any k-member. Actually that might be good since you can check the axle centerlines before you weld it in. Those picture are outdated, the K member is 100% welded in

There are a couple of things I noticed that you may want to check before you put the body on. It's not obvious to me that you'll be able to remove your driveshaft without removing the differential. The cutout in the rear crossmember is pretty narrow and not very deep vertically. I just wonder if the driveshaft will clear the center section and slide out with the body on. I'm building a frame right now and we had to address that since it's getting an AME-type center section. I hope things clear, Russell and his Dad Jim have built many of these frame

I don't see any swaybar mounts....do you still have to install them? What about rear axle bumpers? I have them installed, I hope to have new picture posted tonight

What are the 4 tabs on the rear crossmember for, a pinon support? You got it!

https://sphotos-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/426997_10151077919826306_1254742351_n.jpg

It looks like you have bumper bolt holes in the frame. I would check the length from the frontmost bumper bolt holes to the rearmost bumper bolt holes. The dimensions are in the GM drawings. Frames have a tendency to "shrink" with all the welding so I'm curious how that turned out since there is so much welding on that frame. If that's okay, I would check the radiator support location and the axle centerlines from those reference points. I have looked at the GM drawings briefly and I don't see where there is a call out for axle centerline, I likely missed it. I think Nick is sending me a CAD file he made, maybe that will help me

Keep posting pics here. All you have to do is cut and paste from your album.

NickP
08-02-2013, 11:48 AM
Thank you, your work is awesome

So, you have settled on an AutoCAD (,dwg) as the format of choice?

chevynut
08-02-2013, 12:03 PM
Jason, once you get the suspension bolted on, I'm curious where your axle centerlines are vertically relative to the bottom of the main frame rails. At ride height I set the lower a-arms level and the rear halfshafts level. Just curious where ride height is on that frame.

The frame we're building now is lowered from most of them we do. The front has a 3 1/2" suspension drop, and the rear a 3 1/4" drop. We had to raise the batwing in the frame, and narrow the frame rails for a narrowed Dana 44. To raise the batwing we used one from a Viper, and we fabbed completely new frame rails. It should be pretty cool when finished.

JJ55
08-02-2013, 12:54 PM
PDF please
So, you have settled on an AutoCAD (,dwg) as the format of choice?

JJ55
08-02-2013, 12:59 PM
I'll keep you posted, my temporary coil-overs will be 11" Center to Center
Jason, once you get the suspension bolted on, I'm curious where your axle centerlines are vertically relative to the bottom of the main frame rails. At ride height I set the lower a-arms level and the rear halfshafts level. Just curious where ride height is on that frame.

The frame we're building now is lowered from most of them we do. The front has a 3 1/2" suspension drop, and the rear a 3 1/4" drop. We had to raise the batwing in the frame, and narrow the frame rails for a narrowed Dana 44. To raise the batwing we used one from a Viper, and we fabbed completely new frame rails. It should be pretty cool when finished.

NickP
08-02-2013, 02:26 PM
A drawing would great! when I bought the frame Russell was still working on drawings but I still haven't seen them, not saying he's not helpful but I prefer drawings

email address? Or, email me and I'll reply.

JJ55
08-02-2013, 03:32 PM
Jason.johnson@srpnet.com

JJ55
08-03-2013, 06:03 PM
Could you explain the shims in the upper control arms
Cool, sounds like you had the right equipment to do the job. And it's good to see that you didn't use the bolt-in k-member. Personally I think it looks bad and it's scary to me to have the entire k-member secured by only 8 small bolts.

The GM drawings pretty much have everything you need, but there is a little calculation required for some dimensions. I went through all that when I built my frame jig. Since you KNOW where your k-member has to sit, and it's welded in already, I would use the front axle centerline as the reference point. The only issue is that you have to align the suspension to the proper 6 degree caster to use it. If you have your a-arm spacers, using them and two one-eight inch shims in front and back will set the suspension close to where it's supposed to be. The thick spacer goes in front. Then set the toe and measure the radiator support centerline and rear axle centerline from there. You could also measure the body mount locations if you want.

Let's see some pics!!

NickP
08-03-2013, 07:29 PM
Jason the upper control arms have four (4) set size cupped shims, two thick and two thin that establish the initial position of the arm. What Laszlo is saying that it takes normal alignment shim stacked in as he specified - this gets you close so you can get it to an alignment shop.

See the picture here, you can see the round thick and thin cupped spacers on either side of the upper control arm shaft. This is the last one that went out of here.http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407314194.jpg

JJ55
08-04-2013, 01:57 PM
Really nice looking chassis, I have the spacers arranged the same has yours

Jason the upper control arms have four (4) set size cupped shims, two thick and two thin that establish the initial position of the arm. What Laszlo is saying that it takes normal alignment shim stacked in as he specified - this gets you close so you can get it to an alignment shop.

See the picture here, you can see the round thick and thin cupped spacers on either side of the upper control arm shaft. This is the last one that went out of here.http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407314194.jpg

JJ55
08-04-2013, 02:12 PM
I've double checked several of the chassis measurements and the numbers are looking good:) I was wondering if Nick or Chevynut have some pointers on setting the motor and tranny. I'm installing a L98 SBC out of an 1988 corvette. Do any of you happen to have some location measurements for the motor mounts.

NickP
08-05-2013, 07:51 AM
Jason, in the drawing I sent you, I indicated the approximate location of the front of the block (SBC) relative to stock location. It's about 7/8" forward of the gauge hole or about 2-7/8" forward of the axle center line. Not knowing what your chassis looks like (picture of the area?) I really can't give you absolutes however I know Russell knows right where it goes on his chassis.

chevynut
08-05-2013, 08:51 AM
Jason, I set the SBCs 8" from the center of the radiator support holes to the front of the damper. That should put it 3/4" forward....at least it does on my frames. :)

Nick, what does your drawing show for that measurement?

chevynut
08-05-2013, 08:53 AM
If it was me, I wouldn't take a chance on engine position. I would set the engine and transmission in place, and put the body on the frame to make sure it all fits. I would set the engine where it fits the best. JMO.

Oh, and make sure the rack is in place.

NickP
08-05-2013, 10:02 AM
Jason, I set the SBCs 8" from the center of the radiator support holes to the front of the damper. That should put it 3/4" forward....at least it does on my frames. :)

Nick, what does your drawing show for that measurement?

To accurately answer that I would need to know the distance from the face of the block (SBC) to the face of the damper you used.

NickP
08-05-2013, 10:06 AM
If it was me, I wouldn't take a chance on engine position. I would set the engine and transmission in place, and put the body on the frame to make sure it all fits. I would set the engine where it fits the best. JMO.

Oh, and make sure the rack is in place.

I would agree with this completely. I have, in the past made a full size cardboard template of the firewall and set it exactly where it sets to get a feel for its (engine) placement. Took a little time and some cardboard and 2x4 wood but it worked perfectly. This still doesn't replicate the association of the powertrain to the underside of the body/trans tunnel.

chevynut
08-05-2013, 12:30 PM
To accurately answer that I would need to know the distance from the face of the block (SBC) to the face of the damper you used.

Not sure about that. I thought all the dampers were pretty much the same...mine is 8" diameter and I'm not sure of the thickness. It looks about the same as the one on my BBC too.

NickP
08-05-2013, 12:47 PM
Not sure about that. I thought all the dampers were pretty much the same...mine is 8" diameter and I'm not sure of the thickness. It looks about the same as the one on my BBC too.

We may not be on the same page here. What I had calculated from measurements taken on a 57 chassis with a bare block sitting in place was what I used in my drawings however no crank or pulley/damper. Using your 8" dimension from radiator lower mount holes leaves 2.48" to the front of the block machined front surface on my drawing which would be pretty close I think.

JJ55
08-07-2013, 08:17 PM
Thanks guys that gives me something to work with unfortunately Russel doesn't know because he says SBC have many diffrent setup, dont agree completely with that. Because I was one of the first guys to get this chassis instructions were hard to come by. I talked with Russell today and he sending me drawings it will be interesting to see how they match up with Nicks. Guys I will get somemore pictures up soon. One thing i wanted the double check was the position of rear axles relitive to the third member if i understand correctly the knuckles(spindle) should be 1/2" closer to the taillights than third member, Russell i believe suggests the other way around. QUOTE=NCW;12186]Jason, in the drawing I sent you, I indicated the approximate location of the front of the block (SBC) relative to stock location. It's about 7/8" forward of the gauge hole or about 2-7/8" forward of the axle center line. Not knowing what your chassis looks like (picture of the area?) I really can't give you absolutes however I know Russell knows right where it goes on his chassis.[/QUOTE]

NickP
08-07-2013, 08:48 PM
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~ShowPic~Z5Z5Z50000050f~Z5Z5Z5FAYKV let's ponder a moment. Unless the lower Rear Strut Rod has been changed to a fully articulating unit, its relationship (center section) to the knuckles will be established by those strut rods due to the built in offset. They only go in one way because of the camber rod adjustment bolt set. Look at the strut rod, big hole goes to the third member - small hole to the knuckle. Yes, you can get it backwards - I suggest maybe getting a set of corvette service manuals - makes life very simplehttp://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~ShowPic~Z5Z5Z50000050f~Z5Z5Z5FBBZX

NickP
08-07-2013, 08:49 PM
Thanks guys that gives me something to work with unfortunately Russel doesn't know because he says SBC have many diffrent setup, dont agree completely with that. Because I was one of the first guys to get this chassis instructions were hard to come by. I talked with Russell today and he sending me drawings it will be interesting to see how they match up with Nicks. Guys I will get somemore pictures up soon. One thing i wanted the double check was the position of rear axles relitive to the third member if i understand correctly the knuckles(spindle) should be 1/2" closer to the taillights than third member, Russell i believe suggests the other way around. QUOTE=NCW;12186]Jason, in the drawing I sent you, I indicated the approximate location of the front of the block (SBC) relative to stock location. It's about 7/8" forward of the gauge hole or about 2-7/8" forward of the axle center line. Not knowing what your chassis looks like (picture of the area?) I really can't give you absolutes however I know Russell knows right where it goes on his chassis.[/QUOTE]

Different setups!????????????????? What in the world is he talking about?

chevynut
08-07-2013, 09:12 PM
What does "SBC have many diffrent setup"mean? All of them have the same mount locations and the same block length. In fact, the BBCs have the same mount location relative to the bellhousing face. It's hard to believe that the designer of the chassis can't tell you where to put the engine mounts. If you specify 3/4" forward he should be able to tell you the distance from some reference point on the frame.

Also, the knuckles are BEHIND of the differential. And I believe it's quite a bit more than 1/2"....I measured it once, but don't remember the distance. I could measure it if you really need the measurement. But if you have the rearend, you could measure it yourself.

Why do you have to locate the knuckles and the differential? Isn't that something that's designed into the frame? The knuckles are located by the dogbones. The differential should basically locate itself if you have the stock lower strut rods in place.

Also, I would locate the engine and set the engine angle before setting the pinion angle, unless you know what engine angle you want already.

chevynut
08-07-2013, 09:15 PM
Nick, I think the strut rod holes are the same diameter on the early suspensions. They changed them in '88 to make the inboard ones larger. I'm not sure what year rear Jason has. In any case, the knuckles are BEHIND the differential. I can post some pics to prove it. ;)

chevynut
08-07-2013, 09:27 PM
Here's a strut rod from an early C4:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Corvette-C4-1984-85-86-1987-left-rear-strut-rod-GM-14048947-bushes-OK-/00/s/NzUwWDEwMDA=/z/FPcAAMXQ855Rn5cl/$%28KGrHqJ,%21lgFF-C0ytthBRn5clnHM%21%7E%7E60_57.JPG

And here's a late one:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1990-1996-C4-CORVETTE-LEFT-HAND-REAR-WHEEL-SPINDLE-STRUT-ROD-/00/s/ODA0WDE2MDA=/$%28KGrHqJHJBIE9%2121,qEYBPTOvB8Uh%21%7E%7E60_57.J PG

They are interchangeable if you also change the adjuster assemblies on the differential. They changed them on the 88-96 C4s to change the position of the inboard mount to improve the rear suspension geometry.

JJ55
08-07-2013, 09:50 PM
I believe he was referring more to what you may have in front of the balancer if I get my drawing tomorrow that will help
What does "SBC have many diffrent setup"mean? All of them have the same mount locations and the same block length. In fact, the BBCs have the same mount location relative to the bellhousing face. It's hard to believe that the designer of the chassis can't tell you where to put the engine mounts. If you specify 3/4" forward he should be able to tell you the distance from some reference point on the frame.

Also, the knuckles are BEHIND of the differential. And I believe it's quite a bit more than 1/2"....I measured it once, but don't remember the distance. I could measure it if you really need the measurement. But if you have the rearend, you could measure it yourself. Yes I can measure it just double checking, I believe I read on a corvette site that is was 5/8" rearward at ride height

Why do you have to locate the knuckles and the differential? Isn't that something that's designed into the frame? The knuckles are located by the dogbones. The differential should basically locate itself if you have the stock lower strut rods in place.

I believe that something's wrong in this area because I can make the top bars but to make the lowers I have twist the shit out of knuckle (counter clockwise) and I believe the wheelbase will be short about an inch. Not sure if there's a ideal position (clocking) of the knuckle

Also, I would locate the engine and set the engine angle before setting the pinion angle, unless you know what engine angle you want already. I'll be asking for help on that when I get closer what angle do you recommend?

chevynut
08-08-2013, 06:33 AM
I believe that something's wrong in this area because I can make the top bars but to make the lowers I have twist the shit out of knuckle (counter clockwise) and I believe the wheelbase will be short about an inch. Not sure if there's a ideal position (clocking) of the knuckle

I guess I don't understand what you're saying. I see you have batwing brackets in place. They should be placed such that they correspond to the pinion angle you plan to use. There is some latitude to twist the batwing in the brackets, but not much. Do you know what pinion angle the frame was designed for? I ALWAYS set up the pinion at the proper angle, then attach the batwing brackets to the batwing and weld them in place.

With the batwing in the brackets, are you saying that the top dogbones fit but the bottom ones don't? Is the "counterclockwise" that you have to "twist the shit" ;) out of on the driver's or passenger's side? You shouldn't have to twist anything.

Can you post a pic of what the problem is? Sounds like a design issue with the frame.

NickP
08-08-2013, 10:28 AM
Nick, I think the strut rod holes are the same diameter on the early suspensions. They changed them in '88 to make the inboard ones larger. I'm not sure what year rear Jason has. In any case, the knuckles are BEHIND the differential. I can post some pics to prove it. ;)

Hmmm, I guess I don't know where it was I said that the knuckles were anywhere but behind the ring gear center line but I certainly agree that they are, I have a D44 in its entirety that correlates with your statement. Mine is an 96 with the big holes in the lower strut rods. They have the washers that internally locate position rather than the big solid bushing.

chevynut
08-09-2013, 07:31 AM
Nick, you didn't say the knuckles weren't behind the differential, I was just reiterating that to Jason. I don't think you could get the strut rods in backwards, but you could mix them up left and right. That would put the knuckles in front of the differential yoke centerline. Sounds like he might have some issues there.

I'm really curious about ride height. They used to advertize that their frame design lowered the front by 6" and the rear by 5". We both know that's not even possible.

JJ55
08-09-2013, 04:02 PM
I will get those numbers to you Before the weekends over, I have also uploaded 50 new photos to my wife's Facebook there in a album name Jason's 55 August 13. When you get time look them over and let me know if you have any ideas.

chevynut
08-10-2013, 07:47 AM
Hi Jason, I looked at the pics and I hate to tell ya, but those lower strut rods are on backwards. :( If that's the way they claim it's supposed to be, they're wrong. I have at least 10 C4 rearends here, and they have the halfshafts pointing slightly back. Have you measured your wheelbase?

Also, it looks like your batwing brackets are plumb, not angled like they should be. Perhaps that's just the picture, but I can't tell. The pinion angle should determine the batwing bracket angle as I mentioned before. It doesn't look like your pinion angle is set where it should be, but I don't know what engine angle you're planning to use. That should have been determined before you installed the transmission crossmember.

At ride height, the upper dogbones should be about level, based on all the research I've done. The lower dogbones should point slightly upward in front. In your pics, it looks to me like your upper dogbones point downward and the lower ones are almost parallel. I set the distance between the dogbones the same as in the Corvette. This dogbone geometry affects the anti-squat characteristics of the IRS. How did they tell you to locate the batwing brackets?

The front looks okay, but I don't understand why the frame is so wide at the k-member. Seems like it might cause tire clearance problems, and the shocks don't have much room in the a-arms....especially if you plan to use coilovers. I would have pinched the frame in at that point. JMO.

The radiator support is supposed to be angled back at 4 degrees, but I can't tell if it is.

https://sphotos-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1157638_10151763611786306_869784354_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/559720_10151763596021306_1406597781_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1000593_10151763615471306_271033099_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1006316_10151763619431306_1428808890_n.jpg

JJ55
08-10-2013, 09:32 AM
That's weird because those struts haven't been move since I pulled the rearend out of the car. The wheel base looks to be right on if I where to install longer lower dog bones, and I'm in the process of making adjustable one's with Hiem joints also there not installed yet but the kit came with adjustable lower strut bars and the toe bars in the back
Hi Jason, I looked at the pics and I hate to tell ya, but those lower strut rods are on backwards. :( If that's the way they claim it's supposed to be, they're wrong. I have at least 10 C4 rearends here, and they have the halfshafts pointing slightly back. Have you measured your wheelbase?

Also, it looks like your batwing brackets are plumb, not angled like they should be. Perhaps that's just the picture, but I can't tell. The pinion angle should determine the batwing bracket angle as I mentioned before. It doesn't look like your pinion angle is set where it should be, but I don't know what engine angle you're planning to use. That should have been determined before you installed the transmission crossmember. I believe they are slightly angled he told me at ride height the pinion angle should be 1-2 degrees up. The Transmission cross member is likely going to be changed because the 700R4 tranny out of the Vette has a different set-up on the tails haft

At ride height, the upper dogbones should be about level, based on all the research I've done. The lower dogbones should point slightly upward in front. In your pics, it looks to me like your upper dogbones point downward and the lower ones are almost parallel. I set the distance between the dogbones the same as in the Corvette. This dogbone geometry affects the anti-squat characteristics of the IRS. How did they tell you to locate the batwing brackets? All the bracket location were CNC laser cut into the tubing and they fit in tight like a puzzle piece

The front looks okay, but I don't understand why the frame is so wide at the k-member. Seems like it might cause tire clearance problems, and the shocks don't have much room in the a-arms....especially if you plan to use coilovers. I would have pinched the frame in at that point. JMO. There's several guys that have there car back together, I haven't heard any issues on tires

The radiator support is supposed to be angled back at 4 degrees, but I can't tell if it is. Yes I believe it is, not sure how much. Should it be 4 degrees at ride height?

https://sphotos-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1157638_10151763611786306_869784354_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/559720_10151763596021306_1406597781_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1000593_10151763615471306_271033099_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1006316_10151763619431306_1428808890_n.jpg

NickP
08-10-2013, 10:02 AM
Well, sitting here in downtown Houston watching it rain. Thought i would see what's going on. I am puzzled too because ALL of the Dana 36 and 44's I have used have the rear struts pointing toward the back. I recall some dialogue somewhere regarding someone else having an issue back there but can't recall what or where.

I have to agree that the front does look suspiciously wide.

JJ55
08-10-2013, 11:46 AM
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w178/1meanz/88squat.jpg (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=rg9Q4xlDGcT_aM&tbnid=R8bzcmijjedQ8M:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thirdgen.org%2Ftechboard%2Fsu spension-chassis%2F565609-c4-corvette-rear-suspension-3.html&ei=g4kGUt2KOojjiwLRyYGYAQ&bvm=bv.50500085,d.aWc&psig=AFQjCNFna_GHR_nzPa8alQSQUKYplWShGg&ust=1376246414229068) Would you guys agree with this angles and position of the four bars

NickP
08-10-2013, 11:58 AM
I wish I could. Out of pocket. I have all of this at home.

chevynut
08-10-2013, 10:10 PM
Would you guys agree with this angles and position of the four bars

I have not measured the suspensions that closely or done any anti-squat calculations myself. but that drawing looks reasonable to me. Since the wheelbase is shown at 96.2" I'm assuming this is a diagram for a stock C4 Corvette rear suspension geometry. I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for as far as validation.

JJ55
08-11-2013, 09:53 PM
With the suspension setting at ride height the axle centerline on the rear is 6.5" above the bottom of the frame and the front is 4.750. Seems backward to me? I have 11" center to center temporary shocks on both front and rear. I have more pictures of today's progress, I get them posted soon.

JJ55
08-11-2013, 09:57 PM
Just trying to understand the proper positioning of the four bars, I'm building adjustable bars so Ill have more forgiveness
I have not measured the suspensions that closely or done any anti-squat calculations myself. but that drawing looks reasonable to me. Since the wheelbase is shown at 96.2" I'm assuming this is a diagram for a stock C4 Corvette rear suspension geometry. I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for as far as validation.

NickP
08-12-2013, 06:20 AM
Forgiveness for what? What you might consider if anything at all relative to the dog bones is to make them articulate more freely. The only reason for adjustable length would be to correct for manufacturing errors specific to rear alignment. If the chassis is square and plumb with all attachment locations correct, it should just be a bolt in.........................................

NickP
08-12-2013, 06:36 AM
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w178/1meanz/88squat.jpg (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=rg9Q4xlDGcT_aM&tbnid=R8bzcmijjedQ8M:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thirdgen.org%2Ftechboard%2Fsu spension-chassis%2F565609-c4-corvette-rear-suspension-3.html&ei=g4kGUt2KOojjiwLRyYGYAQ&bvm=bv.50500085,d.aWc&psig=AFQjCNFna_GHR_nzPa8alQSQUKYplWShGg&ust=1376246414229068) Would you guys agree with this angles and position of the four bars

Here is the GM drawing: http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff87/swiftwood/Corvette/hubs/longer_dogbones.jpg

chevynut
08-12-2013, 08:28 AM
With the suspension setting at ride height the axle centerline on the rear is 6.5" above the bottom of the frame and the front is 4.750.

According to the GM drawings and my calculations, the centerline of the rear axle is about 4.6" above the bottom of the stock frame at STOCK ride height. Since your frame rails are 1/2" shorter in height than the stock 4.5" frame rail, your rear axle would sit 4.1" above the bottom of your frame if it was at stock ride height. So you have a 2.4" drop from stock in the rear per my calculations. I assume this is with the halfshafts level?

In front, the stock spindle centerline is about 5.75" above the bottom of the stock frame at stock ride height, which would put it 5.25" above the bottom of your frame at stock ride height. If you're only at 4.75" above the bottom of the frame at the front spindle, the front is apparently sitting 1/2" HIGHER than stock height. Is this with lower a-arms level?

Are you planning to use the stock C4 leaf springs or coilovers?

Did you reverse the strut rods like they're supposed to be? Based on the pics you posted it looks to me like your dogbones are in the wrong location and position. Have others successfully built and assembled this DIY frame?

chevynut
08-12-2013, 08:47 AM
The only reason for adjustable length would be to correct for manufacturing errors specific to rear alignment. If the chassis is square and plumb with all attachment locations correct, it should just be a bolt in.........................................

Nick, I agree with you. If the frame is designed incorrectly, which IMO it appears to be, changing the dogbone length to correct the design error is going to change the suspension geometry. With different length dogbones the suspension will articulate differently. That might be okay, but it is different than GM intended.

I looked for some drawings when I was designing my conversion but couldn't find any, and I concluded that the top dogbone should be about level based on pics I had seen of several C4 corvettes. When the car is lowered, the top dogbone points downward in front...I wonder how the Corvette racers deal with this, since it will affect anti-squat.

I'm pretty sure the dogbones are in the wrong positions on Jason's frame. This pic doesn't look right to me....



https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1150964_10151763593956306_392936628_n.jpg

NickP
08-12-2013, 09:25 AM
With the suspension setting at ride height the axle centerline on the rear is 6.5" above the bottom of the frame and the front is 4.750. Seems backward to me? I have 11" center to center temporary shocks on both front and rear. I have more pictures of today's progress, I get them posted soon.

Pictured below is a Dana 44 untouched other than the batwing bushing have been replaced. I know you mentioned you pulled the unit you have out of the car, but I can tell you, of all of the units, 36 or 44 that I have seen, pulled or otherwise had in my possession, this is how they go in and come out, knuckles back. In viewing your unit, it's incorrect in my humble opinion. It would be an interesting thing to know how it fits with the lower struts swapped out.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407363512.jpg

chevynut
08-12-2013, 09:36 AM
Nick you are correct. Your picture is exactly like all the many C4 rearends I've bought and sold. I don't think Jason's dogbones will line up at all when the strut rods are put in their correct orientation. In fact, I question the angle of the batwing brackets too, but I don't know how they were located.

Jason, have you measured your wheelbase?

If it was me, I'd set the rearend where it's supposed to be with the strut rods installed correctly and with the correct pinion angle and ride height, then I'd relocate the batwing brackets and dogbone mounts. I personally would not "band-aid" a bad design with adjustable dogbones. It won't change the fact that the upper dogbones already point downward in front.

NickP
08-12-2013, 10:51 AM
Nick you are correct. Your picture is exactly like all the many C4 rearends I've bought and sold. I don't think Jason's dogbones will line up at all when the strut rods are put in their correct orientation. In fact, I question the angle of the batwing brackets too, but I don't know how they were located.

Jason, have you measured your wheelbase?

If it was me, I'd set the rearend where it's supposed to be with the strut rods installed correctly and with the correct pinion angle and ride height, then I'd relocate the batwing brackets and dogbone mounts. I personally would not "band-aid" a bad design with adjustable dogbones. It won't change the fact that the upper dogbones already point downward in front.
Lower strut rods have an offset as e all agree upon. I went out and measured this one. it's 1-1/8" offset.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407363514.jpg

Pictured here is a Dana 36 Knuckle. The receiving end of the strut rod is not centered in the housing - It sets the knuckle back 1/16" I know to some that may be splitting hairs.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407363851.jpg

Pictured here is a Dana 36 housing/batwing. From the center of the axle stub to the face of the back it's 2.538" Below the stub hole you see the brkts for the lower strut that is in discussion. the center of the strut rod as can be seen is 2.14 from the axle stub centerline. taking the known 1 1/8" offset and calculating it (I drew it up in AutoCAD) you get 1.02 +/-.01 offset to the rear on a Dana 36.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407363931.jpg


I hope this helps.

NickP
08-12-2013, 11:04 AM
This picture sends me in hopes of a custom rear steer setup that came with the kit. Also, if your going to make some shock replicators it helps to have them position the suspension as if it were at ride height. You have plenty of material there, it will just be a matter of new holes to level up the half shafts but it may only be the perspective of the picture playing tricks on me.



https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1147019_10151763605696306_540771830_o.jpg

NickP
08-12-2013, 11:26 AM
As an addendum regarding the struts - there is a part number on each one with an LH or RH that will clear things up too.

Single unit here. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407364176.jpg

This picture is the previously displayed Dana 44 - this is the Passenger Side - AKA RH I'm not trying to scatter your brain or stir the pot, just saying that when you shell out money for anything, you should get a good product, even if it's only a piece of double bubble.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407364212.jpg

This is from the front of the above pic.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407364218.jpg

Olderthandirt
08-12-2013, 05:52 PM
Would it be of any help to anyone to post pictures of a danna 44 still installed in a 86 corvette frame. I have the body cut off my corvette but the rest is in tack.

Rick_L
08-12-2013, 06:20 PM
Would it be of any help to anyone to post pictures of a dana 44 still installed in a 86 corvette frame.

Sure it would help. But Nick and Cnut have already gone out of their way to explain things. Which they didn't have to do, but it does build confidence to their prospective customers that they know what they are doing. Which is a good thing.

Olderthandirt
08-12-2013, 07:41 PM
My apologies, I meant no offence by my offer. I do not claim to be knowledgeable in anything. As for myself I understand thing better with visual aids.

Rick_L
08-12-2013, 08:06 PM
I must apologize to you. I wasn't clear in saying it would be a positive thing for you to post some photos. The more the better.

I may have gotten carried away complimenting the others.

JJ55
08-12-2013, 08:15 PM
Ok maybe forgiveness wasn't a great word the chassis is plumb square and all the mounts match the drawing you gave me plus he sent me one today and it matched your drawing within + or - .010
Forgiveness for what? What you might consider if anything at all relative to the dog bones is to make them articulate more freely. The only reason for adjustable length would be to correct for manufacturing errors specific to rear alignment. If the chassis is square and plumb with all attachment locations correct, it should just be a bolt in.........................................

JJ55
08-12-2013, 08:40 PM
Pictures would be great this lower strut bar has got me going crazy the one on my car came out of a running car and if you look close on my trailer there's another one, both rearends have the bars installed the same way.If at all possible I would like to see the orientation of brake caliper and the angle of the four bars when the car is near ride height
My apologies, I meant no offence by my offer. I do not claim to be knowledgeable in anything. As for myself I understand thing better with visual aids.

chevynut
08-12-2013, 09:11 PM
Guys, I just realized that we're talking about two different things. :eek: Jason first asked if the knuckles were in front of or behind the center section...they're BEHIND it. But the strut rods point the other way. Take a look at Nick's picture below....you can see that the halfshafts point rearward, but the strut rods point forward at the outboard end. So Jason does have them in correctly...my apologies. I guess I never looked at one from below that closely.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407363512.jpg

So now we can move on with other issues. I think the reason your lower dogbones don't line up is that your pinion angle isn't where it's supposed to be. Raise the pinion up and the dogbones should line up. If you can't raise the pinon up, it may be because your batwing brackets aren't sitting at the correct angle.

NickP
08-12-2013, 09:46 PM
Would it be of any help to anyone to post pictures of a danna 44 still installed in a 86 corvette frame. I have the body cut off my corvette but the rest is in tack.

Olderthandirt many thanks for your offer and I for one would like o see your chassis bare of body. It might lead to other good stuff like what's being developed here so please, post away!!! Thanks in advance.

Olderthandirt
08-13-2013, 06:41 PM
h22652266226722682269Hope pictures will be a help to someone.

JJ55
08-13-2013, 07:46 PM
Olderthandirt, Could I get you to take one more photo of the brake caliper and dog bones but this time if you be so kind to raise the half shaft up until its about level. Thank you pictures really help.

chevynut
08-13-2013, 07:50 PM
Jason, don't you believe the GM drawing of the dogbone position that was posted by Nick?

Maddog
08-13-2013, 08:56 PM
test

JJ55
08-14-2013, 08:11 PM
I only ask because I'm not sure if the half shafts are level at ride height on a corvette, do you know?
Jason, don't you believe the GM drawing of the dogbone position that was posted by Nick?

NickP
08-15-2013, 07:50 AM
Jason I understand your quest for knowledge. Elsewhere on this site, Chevynut posted about a C4 rear in motion. "http://www.trifivechevys.com/showthread.php/2561-C4-rear-suspension-at-work" Keep this in mind however. with coilovers you will be able to adjust to some degree what the final attitude of the suspension is. My thoughts and how I set one up may differ from the next person. Having said that I can attest to the fact that with two passengers in the vehicle the half shafts in a dozen or more that I have looked at are very close to parallel with the road surface at rest.

JJ55
08-17-2013, 08:41 PM
Cnut, when you say you set the front lower A-arms level are you saying you run a straightedge across the the bottom of the K member and bring the ball joints down to the straightedge
Jason, once you get the suspension bolted on, I'm curious where your axle centerlines are vertically relative to the bottom of the main frame rails. At ride height I set the lower a-arms level and the rear halfshafts level. Just curious where ride height is on that frame.

The frame we're building now is lowered from most of them we do. The front has a 3 1/2" suspension drop, and the rear a 3 1/4" drop. We had to raise the batwing in the frame, and narrow the frame rails for a narrowed Dana 44. To raise the batwing we used one from a Viper, and we fabbed completely new frame rails. It should be pretty cool when finished.

NickP
08-17-2013, 10:21 PM
Cnut, when you say you set the front lower A-arms level are you saying you run a straightedge across the the bottom of the K member and bring the ball joints down to the straightedge


No, the bottom of the lower control arms are parallel to the driving surface.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407395121.jpg

JJ55
08-18-2013, 06:38 AM
Ok, thanks.
No, the bottom of the lower control arms are parallel to the driving surface.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/2283636/4473821/407395121.jpg

JJ55
08-18-2013, 09:34 AM
Cnut/Nick, what size tires are you guys running? I'm looking for mainly diameter I have a set of 84 saw blades and want to mount some tires on them, something close to what I'll end up with. Jason

JJ55
08-18-2013, 04:49 PM
When reading the factory GM manual page 2-15 is P1 and P2 referring to the front axle centerline?

NickP
08-18-2013, 09:10 PM
Ball joint ℄ as I understand it. However, if you don't have the gage holes then it's of little help to you

chevynut
08-19-2013, 11:08 AM
Cnut/Nick, what size tires are you guys running?

I have 245/45-17 front tires and 295/35-18 rear.

chevynut
08-19-2013, 11:18 AM
Ball joint ℄ as I understand it. However, if you don't have the gage holes then it's of little help to you

Yes, P1 and P2 are the balljoint centerlines. They really aren't of much use because they aren't dimensioned vertically.

chevynut
09-16-2013, 11:14 AM
What ever happened here Jason? Did you get it figured out?