bellhousing casting # 3733365/ clutch set up

[oldgoat16]

Hey Guys, multiple questions.... will the original bell housing, casting # 3733365 fit a big block or should I go with what I have an aluminum # 3899621, trying to make this fit easily and modify as I go,... if I go with the aluminum bell housing, the installation has more questions...first.. the transmission mount, ..go with the aftermarket bolt on unit? who do you recommend?.. also what ,if any is the degrees need to send the tail shaft properly to the rear end? so the pinion angle is correct,before I bolt or weld the tranny mount in place ..second the clutch linkage.....build my own, or is there an aftermarket set-up readily available? or can I modify the original set up to fit the 55 chev? Thanks Mike

[chevynut]

The BBC will bolt right in where the stock SBC was, using the stock bellhousing, and with the exception of the front mounts. However, I wouldn't do it that way.

I would decide where you want the engine to sit, and whether you're going to modify the firewall or not. Most guys move the BBC forward at least 2/4", but there are still firewall mods necessary if you do that. I recommend 1.5" if you don't want to cut the original firewall. I moved mine forward 1.5" and still cut the firewall out. I only needed a 2.5" setback that way. When you install a 4" setback firewall you can run into problems with the air conditioning evaporator, if you use one, or the gas pedal.

I recommend side mounts and a transmission crossmember. There are kits to do all of this, but they're over-priced, imo.

[oldgoat16]

Thanks Chevy nut, I did look into earl Williams kits, what seems to be a problem is the headers , earl has them, but they are 995.00 coated to fit his application with side mounts, is there any other headers or side mount kits that fit the application? a little less in price... I'm OK with modifying the firewall to fit, I'm not going to cut more than I need, I also have an old Hurst front engine mount kit for the motor mount application, don't know if it moves the engine forward just yet, any thoughts on the clutch linkage?

[chevynut]

oldgoat, if you move the engine at all, you will have to deal with modifying the clutch linkage in some way. IMO I would go with a hydraulic setup (master and slave) but you can make mechanical linkage work with some mods to the pivots.

CCI (Ecklers) has a kit to do a BBC installation. They also have a hydraulic clutch setup.

I used Earle's headers on my Nomad with the C4 conversion and 502, and they fit well. They are expensive, but many of them are. Take a look at CCIs headers and also on Summit Racing's site. They have Hooker and Doug's headers that I believe are worth checking out.

[Rick_L]

Old goat,

You don't have to use E. Williams' headers when you use their mounts. Though those are known to fit.

For 3/4" forward mounts, all you need to do to use the stock clutch linkage is provide a proper bracket for the pivot ball for the inner side of the z-bar. Drilling two new holes in the stock bracket 3/4" forward of the existing holes does this for you very easily. This if you're using a stock bellhousing (not recommended) or a Lakewood bellhouing, which has the tapped holes for the bracket. The stock linkage works very nicely if refurbished. There are parts on the market to beef it up too. But since most guys use a diaphragm clutch, there's not a lot of beefing up needed.

That old Hurst mount moves the engine forward 2-1/4". This makes the oil pan a tough fit, and crowds the radiator area. Also make the clutch linkage and header situation more difficult. Good news is the firewall is easier.

[oldgoat16]

Thanks Guys, Are the side mount mounts are the way to go or speedway's front mount kit that I found on ebay, says it moves the motor to the 6 cylinder position ,I appreciate all the input as this is my first big block installation in a 55, .I also have an bell housing..aluminum from my last 69 big block, will this work or the Lakewood scattersheild the better route? getting closer to fitting this all together with all your help, Thanks Mike

[chevynut]

Oldgoat, can you fab and weld? If so, I would use standard chevy motor mounts an build your own frame mounts. I'd put the engine where you want it to sit with all the stuff on it (headers, wp, accessories, etc) then I'd build the mounts to fit. If you can't fab stuff, get some mounts that give you the flexibility of engine position. Either that, or decide what you want to do with the firewall and pick your mounts to fit. TCI has some mounts that move the engine 1 1/4" forward. I think they would eliminate any firewall issues. But as Rick said, then you probably have to deal with the drag link. If you're going to modify the firewall anyhow, I wouldn't even bother moving the engine forward if I was you. The only problem you might run into is being able to remove the distributor, but I'm not sure about that. It would make everything else fit better.

BTW, the BBC side mounts are in the same location relative to the back of the block as a SBC. The difference is about 2" in front of the mounts.

[Rick_L]

I built my own mounts after receiving and attempting to use some Danchuk mounts that weren't good enough even to cut and modify to make them work. If you go that way use the 2267 rubber/metal mounts or the urethane replacements for them. (2267 is the industry standard number, no matter whose brand your auto supply sells, it will have 2267 as part of the part number.)

But if I had it to do over, I would buy Earle Williams new design mounts. They are similar except that they eliminate the bonded joint between rubber or plastic and steel. Instead they use rubber biscuits that are enclosed, they don't depent on bonding. I've never heard of a Williams frame bracket not being able to fit (sometime they need minor trimming, but never have gaps like the others can). There are two other nice things about this mount. The same pieces can be used for stock location or 3/4" forward. You just swap the pieces that bolt to the block from side to side to switch. The other thing is that they have some side to side adjustment after being welded. Not much but maybe that's all that's needed.

I think I'd put the engine 3/4" forward, and consider putting it 3/4" or 1" to the passenger side. You'll still have to mod the firewall, just not as deep.

As for the transmission crossmember, just about any that are on the market should work, or you can fab your own. You set the engine/transmission at 4º down in back. That determines the vertical location to mount your crossmember. 4º down gives you correct transmission to tunnel clearance, as well as a good starting point for the correct pinion/driveshaft angle. 4º is the stock engine angle. This also puts the carb flange level if you have a carb engine.

[oldgoat16]

Hi Rick and Thanks, I will go this route, the information you have now given me sets this 55 in the right direction, the Earl Williams mounts that you are referring to are the side mount pieces? ..just making sure, I checked his web page and saw the pieces, in the long run, a little more expensive in some areas is money well spent, his headers look like the route I will also go, can't wait to get this thing running! Mike

[oldgoat16]

Hello Chevynut and Thanks, I can weld and fab, actually enjoy it.. I call those days off "sanity days"... I think the easier way is what you guys have been telling to go with the Earl Williams pieces, at least at this point the parts almost fall in place, money again well spent...the firewall I'm going to cut and fab myself taking out only what I need, a little more time consuming but looking at a few tri-fives around here at the local shows, I've found most guys have gone that route and its come out very nice, I now know from talking with you and Rick, that this is the way to go, I appreciate all your help, I know there will be more questions as I go along, looking forward to the day its starts and moves on its own power! Thanks Guys, Mike