Cowl and Hinge Pocket rust repair

[MP&C]

Got your engine pulled or front end off the car? Another area to check while you're there is the cowl vent area, especially to the outside of the front body mount.

The cowl vent/kick panel area are often overlooked when performing rust repair, but due to their design are prone to rust damage from the inside out. The inner cowl area on the 55 and 56 provides fresh air to the kick panel vents, which also makes use of an internal gutter system in an attempt to keep your feet dry if the vents were to be open during a rain storm. Unfortunately this internal gutter normally fills with leaves and other debris, thus retaining water over the years and eventually causing rust. Telltale signs will be small circular spots of rust, and you can check if they are growing into pinholes by using an ice pick:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture189-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture190.jpg

If removing the complete cowl for replacement, there are spot welds around the perimeter of the cowl that hold it onto the adjacent panels. If you are removing the cowl and replacing it with a new one, I would remove the spot welds shown in these areas (red arrows) using a 3" cutoff wheel to grind down to the second layer, so you won't go thru the second layer like you may if using a drill bit. On the outer section, the spot welds are recessed behind the A pillar a bit, so use a fresh cutoff wheel here, and when they just won't reach anymore, continue to use it on the inner section where it is more readily accessible. Or for those that have better luck using a spot weld cutter than I do, they may be used here to remove all the spot welds instead of the cut off wheel. Be sure to use extreme caution not to cut into the second layer, or you may be spending time repairing that before the cowl can go on. On the top section, (second picture down) the cowl has a flange that goes under the upper cowl area, so these spot welds can be simply drilled out with a drill bit to the size of your plug welds, as the new panel will tuck behind. The area pointed out with the green arrow has a flange that tucks up behind pretty far, and is the hardest part to get out, so try to leave this for last when prying it out. It will also give you the most fits putting the new one in, but it will go. ;)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/Misc/cowlremoval1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/Misc/cowlremoval2.jpg

As the front of the cowl is cut open, we can see the problem area and some of the debris that caused the rust:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture192-1.jpg

Now, while you're in here (if you need to be) there are plates covering the hinge pockets which hold the floating nut plates for the hinges. The upper ones will likely be fine, but the lower ones may have rust issues as well.
Hard to see from the mud-rust-scale, but there are pin holes through the cover plate on the bottom:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture196-1.jpg

And behind the cover plate, more rust:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture203.jpg

This is the replacement of the pocket that holds the inner hinge nut plate. This can be formed using a 3 x 3 square steel tubing as a female die, and a 2 x 2 square steel tubing as a punch. (leftover parts from building your own rotisserie) A relief is cut out of one side of the 3 x 3 “die” to better form a 3 sided pocket. Apply heat and dead blow hammer as needed:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture220-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture219-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture222-1.jpg

Welded in, and drain hole formed:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture227.jpg

The driver’s side was even worse as it was plagued with various pin holes around the vent area, so with either side, don’t be surprised if you end up with a hole like this to start:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture250.jpg

Replacement laid out:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture251.jpg

Bent up and test fitted:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture255.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture252.jpg

Kick panel vent clamped for welding (area behind vent is welded in separately, allows you to replace kick panel vent in one piece):

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture254.jpg

Installed:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture261.jpg


Next, to form the rest of the internal parts. Here's what was left of the retainer plate:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture297-1.jpg

We'll need another punch and die:

Two holes joined together with a dremel or drum sander (or die grinder if that's what you have). Scribed lines from the originals keep the reliefs "keyed" correctly

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture298-1.jpg

Two pieces of round rod welded to the rectangular "handle"

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture300.jpg

This merely provides clearance for the bolts coming through the nut plate. Again, apply heat and dead blow as before:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture302.jpg


.....and trimmed as per the original:


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture303.jpg

And next, the fab process for the internal gutter.

removed gutter:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture265.jpg

Cut out:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture266.jpg

Bent up:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture267.jpg

Trimmed and fitted:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture268.jpg

Welded up, welds dressed:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture269.jpg

Comparison:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture270-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture271-1.jpg

All parts welded in place: (the nut plate is then dropped in the pocket from inside the hinge hole)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture277-1.jpg

And then all covered up for no one to see:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/Picture103.jpg

[Maddog]

Reading a couple of your recent threads reaffirms my position on buying good, rust free cars.

[chevynut]

So have you bought one yet? :)

Rust-free cars are hard to find, maybe impossible. Even those that seem very rust-free have metal corrosion issues...these cars are over 50 years old. I don't think there's any such thing as a truly rust-free original tri5. My Nomad hasn't seen any road since 1973 and I still had rust to deal with.

[Maddog]

I've only owned about 12 or so Tri-5's. I don't limit myself to buying Tri-5's. I buy many cars, in fact I don't even look much at Ti-5's any more. At one time I was doing my own frame offs, got tired of all work and no play, these days I pretty much buy finished cars. 100% rust free, you're right probably no such thing but rust free here in Calif are no where near as bad as that stuff MPC is repairing. I built a couple of cars that were rusty by Calif standards and I won't do it again. The most I will tolerate is the typical light rust in rockers and some in floor pans, floor pans are the easiest to repair. Rockers aren't too bad if they're not rusted up to the cowl and other high areas.

[Maddog]

So have you bought one yet? :)

Rust-free cars are hard to find, maybe impossible. Even those that seem very rust-free have metal corrosion issues...these cars are over 50 years old. I don't think there's any such thing as a truly rust-free original tri5. My Nomad hasn't seen any road since 1973 and I still had rust to deal with.


Jogging my memory, had a 57 Nomad with only small hole in pass rocker otherwise zero rust. Did have the lead joint at the B pillar to qtr separating but that wasn't rust. Had a 56 sedan only had lower qtr driver side rust minor, from leaky rear glass lets water run down behind seat. A few others. These examples are rust free by most standards

I'l add that MPC's work is top notch, he' a master of his trade.

[BAM55]

I'l add that MPC's work is top notch, he' a master of his trade.

Now that is the truth, plus he seems to be a very cool person. No arrogance, just loves to share his knowledge. The goes a long way in my book. He is a amazing craftsman.

[MP&C]

Thanks for the comments guys. I've had quite the scrap pile of mistakes along the way, and still learning!

[Wayne Meuir]

I follow every one of your threads, Robert and I am absolutely amazed at what you can do. Not only is the work fantastic, but the explanation of how and why you do stuff is incredible. What talent!!!

Wayne

[sleeper55]

The metal work ive seen on this site is nothing short of genius. Looking at pics like this makes me so envies of the knowledge and craftsmanship. Well done

[NickP]

Great work Robert, many thanks for the post.

[JT56]

Now that is the truth, plus he seems to be a very cool person. No arrogance, just loves to share his knowledge. The goes a long way in my book. He is a amazing craftsman.

Yes I would say Craftsman!

[Impalajohn]

I'd like to discuss the information pertaining to the cowl and hinge pocket repair for a 1956 Chevrolet Belair Hardtop. Member # 2017 had some nice pictures and info, and I'd like to discuss this with him. Thanks, Impalajohn

[MP&C]

John, what would you like to discuss?

[Impalajohn]

I would like to know if you happen to know where I could buy the lower hinge pocket pieces, or if you would be interested in building me a pair, and if so, what would the cost be? I live in Oklahoma, and am not good with metal working. Thanks, John

[MP&C]

The entire cowl side to include the pieces you need are available new. I am not recommending one vendor over another, but check around to see who has better pricing. I have too long a wait list at this time to take on any more. Thanks, Robert


http://realdealsteel.com/i-20901117-1955-56-chevy-hardtop-nomad-left-cowl-side-panel-a-pillar-assembly.html

[Impalajohn]

Thanks for your reply, however, I have spent over 6 hours on the computer trying to find a supplier and have not been successful, and real deal steel was one of my choices. Is there a particular key word or phrase that I am missing? I appreciate your sending me the link to real deal steel, however, through my search I have not find them having the parts I need. I am needing the piece that goes on the front side of the hinge that holds the plates for the adjustment bolts and not the Phillips larger bolts on the back side. I'm not sure I'm describing them correctly, but you have to remove the cowl piece to get to the front side of the hinge where it has the plate that two bolts screw into. I can't find anyone who has that except for the pictures you showed of manufacturing them. I apologize for not knowing the correct nomenclature for the description, as I am a 30+ year traveling salesman with an industrial paint background, and just wanting to restore a car similar to my first one, a 1956 Aqua and white 56 Chevy 2 door hardtop. I am 72 years old and not as computer savvy as a lot of folks, but I am very sincere. I appreciate your response and any help will be appreciated. John

[MP&C]

It may not show in the picture, but it is part of the assembly in the link I provided.

[Impalajohn]

Thanks again, I'll check it out. John

[56Safari]

John, the real deal steel and goldenstar panels are exactly the same. I believe you would need part#'s DO13-553PR and DO13-553PL. Not sure where you're located but you're likely to get a better deal if you can find a RDS/Goldenstar retailer local. I paid $475 for my cowl, no shipping costs either.

Here's a company who has them listed at $431 if you're trying to buy them online... ( I prefer buying local and inspecting before paying, sometimes the panels get damaged in shipping)

https://www.c2cfabrication.com/collections/chevrolet-nomad-parts/body-a-pillar

[Impalajohn]

Thanks for the heads up! I looked mine over real close with the body man today, and we decided to repair what we have as they aren't as bad as I thought when he first called me. Thanks again for all your help. John