Which disc brakes

[5557mad]

trying to decide what disc brake kit to put on my 55 nomad. seems like the more i read about them the more confused i get. i am open to suggestions. would like to use my origional spindle. also i do not want to move my front wheels out. tell me which kit you useded and if you are happy with the results.

[Rick_L]

Welcome to the site.

What you want is what's called a "zero offset" kit. There are two that I know of, but there may be more. One source is mrgchevyparts on Ebay. The other is Classic Performance Parts (CPP). The difference between this setup and the others is that it uses a separate hub, and a hat type rotor from a 79 Trans Am rear disc setup, plus a custom bracket to match those. I don't think it absolutely doesn't move the wheels from stock, it actually moves them out 1/4" or so on each side (difference between a stock drum and the disc brake rotor thickness at the mounting flange).

The rest of the kits for stock spindles (at least ones that use factory rotors and calipers) use a 69-72 Chevelle rotor. That rotor moves the wheels out 7/8" on each side.

You could also use a Wilwood or other aftermarket setup that has custom rotors and calipers. But that's a leap upward in scope and cost.

["USA1"]

On my 55 and 56 both I yse the 67-72 Ccevelle, 69 Camaro, or 70-72 Monte roter which are reported to muve the wheels out 7/8 but no one including myself has a issue with it. I am always askinf people to comment on this when they see my cars. The one thing I do see as important is get a kit that uses D52 pads and calipers, my 55 uses metric crap and it sucks in stoping power. Metric stuff comes off S10s and 80s Montes and Cutlass.

["USA1"]

On my 55 and 56 both I yse the 67-72 Ccevelle, 69 Camaro, or 70-72 Monte roter which are reported to muve the wheels out 7/8 but no one including myself has a issue with it. I am always asking people to comment on this when they see my cars. The one thing I do see as important is get a kit that uses D52 pads and calipers, my 55 uses metric crap and it sucks in stoping power. Metric stuff comes off S10s and 80s Montes and Cutlass.

[Rick_L]

but no one including myself has a issue with it.

I have to disagree as I have issues with using the Chevelle rotors in most cases. It works if you run the narrow stock wheels and tires. Even then I can spot them and to me it looks strange. But the real problems start when you want to run 7" wide rims and a tire to match, especially if you want to lower the car in front which I like. The tires will rub the fenders when they get that wide, especially if you have "off the shelf" backspacing on the wheels and it's lowered at all. Even if it's not lowered and has the wide rims/big tires and doesn't rub, it just looks wrong.

They wouldn't offer the "zero offset" stuff if there wasn't a market for it.

My guess is that USA1 doesn't like a lowered car.

["USA1"]

I have to disagree as I have issues with using the Chevelle rotors in most cases. It works if you run the narrow stock wheels and tires. Even then I can spot them and to me it looks strange. But the real problems start when you want to run 7" wide rims and a tire to match, especially if you want to lower the car in front which I like. The tires will rub the fenders when they get that wide, especially if you have "off the shelf" backspacing on the wheels and it's lowered at all. Even if it's not lowered and has the wide rims/big tires and doesn't rub, it just looks wrong.

They wouldn't offer the "zero offset" stuff if there wasn't a market for it.

My guess is that USA1 doesn't like a lowered car.


I run 15x6 wheels on both cars. You are correct I do not do lowered cars or monster trucks.

[chevynut]

There's no problem with the Chevelle rotors if you use the narrower wheels and tires and don't lower the car, OR if you compensate for the offset by increasing wheel backspacing. I have a rule of thumb that says if you lower a car 2" or more you should not go beyond about 67.5" wide outside the front tires.

That said, if I was in the market for a new disc brake setup I would go with the "zero offset" versions. I believe ECI also sells them.

[markm]

I have no problem with using 67 Camaro two piece roters or Chevelle one piece roters on these cars because I have a stack of each in the barn. I believe the offset is more of an issue on the 57 from what I have read. I do not know this first hand because to my knowlege I have never even ridden in a 57. I also run manual disk becausr I find the afermarket bosters ugly and out of place looking, especiallythe gold ones.

[chevynut]

A 57 front wheelwell is lower than a 56, which is lower than a 55. So a 55 can get away with more front drop without rubbing the tires on the fenders.

One more thing that many people don't recognize is that the problem isn't just turning the car on flat ground. It's turning while the suspension is compressed, like turning into a steep driveway or going around a corner with a big dip. Even a car with stock height suspension can have a rubbing problem in some cases, especially when turning at full lock and hitting a big dip with wide tires that stick out further than normal.

There are also other factors that affect tire rubbing like the steering angle, since racks typically have a lower steering angle than the original steering box. Also, steering axis inclination can affect tire rubbing to some extent. The C4 front suspensions have a SAI of 8 degrees so the top of the tire tilts inward more when turning. Scrub radius is also a factor but is dependent on other suspension geometries as well.

[chevynut]

I have no problem with using 67 Camaro two piece roters or Chevelle one piece roters on these cars because I have a stack of each in the barn.

I just sold the pair of original 2-piece GM rotors I had on eBay for $150. Thought I might get as little more, but I'm happy with that. ;)

I don't like the looks of the vacuum boosters but most cars have them and they're pretty "normal" to see, imo. In fact I think it looks weird with just a master cylinder on the firewall since you almost always see a booster of some sort. The Hydroboost units aren't so ugly now that I've gotten used to them. I think I was one of the first guys to adapt them to a tri5 several years ago. My brake booster isn't even visible. :)

[markm]

I just sold the pair of original 2-piece GM rotors I had on eBay for $150. Thought I might get as little more, but I'm happy with that. ;)

I don't like the looks of the vacuum boosters but most cars have them and they're pretty "normal" to see, imo. In fact I think it looks weird with just a master cylinder on the firewall since you almost always see a booster of some sort. The Hydroboost units aren't so ugly now that I've gotten used to them. I think I was one of the first guys to adapt them to a tri5 several years ago. My brake booster isn't even visible. :)

I have a box with the orginal 4 piston 67 Camaro calipers and brackets in it somewhere, they were a pain in the ass, leaking every two years. I converted to 69 single piston 20 years ago and have not screwed with it since. Good to know what they bring on Ebay, someday I am going to have to figure that out.

I am interested in the Hydroboost idea for my old age. Are there pictures somewhere.

[chevynut]

There's lots of pics of hydroboost applications.
http://htsmall.classicchevy.com/assets/cci/images/size/600x/sku/20-228.jpg
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=461606&stc=1&d=1242334240

[reborn55]

I run the chevelle setup with brackets from CCI--been on for 15-18 years--they do move the wheels out and are noticeable to most. Am thinking of using the ECI setup as I would like to lower the car a bit in the front.