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rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
04-14-2014, 02:09 PM
I scored another 1955 nomad this past weekend in Kansas.
This thing is unbelievably solid & complete. I'm selling my other one if anyone is interested.
Thanks
Rocky
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-24.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-24.jpg.html)
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-23.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-23.jpg.html)
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-25.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-25.jpg.html)
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-26.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-26.jpg.html)

chevynut
04-14-2014, 02:14 PM
Got pics? Congrats.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
04-14-2014, 02:25 PM
Got pics? Congrats.

I posted pics of the nomad for sale in the classifeds with the 4dr I'm selling. I will sell them together or separate.
Thanks
Rocky

JT56
04-14-2014, 05:57 PM
Are the rear wheel wheel openings on the 55 nomad have the more tear drop look instead of the typical 55 wheel opening? Just never noticed

Olderthandirt
04-14-2014, 06:24 PM
55 Nomads have there own rear wheel opening different than the Belair or regular wagon.

Very nice find. Always great to see a Nomad project. A another one saved.

carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)
04-15-2014, 06:16 AM
congrats, looks like a good one. have fun with it.

chevynut
04-15-2014, 06:52 AM
Are the rear wheel wheel openings on the 55 nomad have the more tear drop look instead of the typical 55 wheel opening? Just never noticed

They're not really "teardrop" shaped like the 56 and 57, they're like a regular 55 opening only significantly taller. The rear wheel openings is one of the things that I love about the 55 Nomad. It's the only car that has different shaped wheelwell openings than other models in the same year. Makes it easier to fit big tires on it. :)

JT56
04-15-2014, 07:28 AM
Thanks guys for clearing that up! Always learning

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-13-2014, 03:43 PM
Started mocking up my instrument panel layout this past weekend.
I plan to run 3 3/8 sw gauges in the original bezel. They will be mounted behind a black panel so only the instrument face will show. I will also install plexiglass over the black panel to give it a factory look. Keeping the factory turn signal arrows and bowtie highbeams. Will also include check in light for lsx and brake light.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_9341.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/IMG_9341.jpg.html)
The center console will house the rest of the instruments along with a/c vents. I plan to install speakers and amp inside console along with iphone connections to the original upgraded wonder bar radio. Original Bench seat is going to be used.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_9344.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/IMG_9344.jpg.html)
Rocky

JT56
05-14-2014, 09:07 AM
Looks like your off to a good start Rocky!

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-08-2014, 07:48 PM
Some progress on the nomad this past week. Suspension, Holley LS pan & LS2 engine are on order. While I'm awaiting their arrival I dug out the only piece of my original 55 from back in the day I had left and used it to build my custom dash. Original oil & gen lights will be used for chk eng & brake. Original high beam bowtie & turn sig arrows will be used. I mocked up one this past weekend. I'm looking at a few different gauges to use in the final version but I'm really liken this one.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-4.jpg.html)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-18-2014, 09:00 AM
My babies transplant arrived this morning. I'm getting excited now. Just need to find good matching 6l80 trans to go with it.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_9797.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/IMG_9797.jpg.html)

567chevys
06-20-2014, 09:33 PM
Really like the dash insert , very nice motor will be very nice when done .


Sid

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
12-31-2014, 01:58 PM
I have had a long holiday off made alot of progess. I have the new engine trans and suspension installed. really happy with final stance.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-25.jpg[/URL]


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-27.jpg[/URL]

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-36.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/rtmad2.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/rtmad2.jpg.html)




http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/rtmad3.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/rtmad3.jpg.html)

Troberts
01-03-2015, 08:22 AM
Great score!!!

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-04-2015, 10:18 AM
Great score!!!

Thanks!! It's pretty solid more than I realized. After spending time under it this past couple of weeks. The rear shock towers are like new. I almost didn't, add a shock bar but decided I wanted a crossmember so I fabbed one to fit the existing floor structure.

BAM55
01-05-2015, 03:36 PM
The nomad is looking really nice.

JT56
01-05-2015, 07:39 PM
Yes very nice! Great progress

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-06-2015, 06:29 AM
Thanks guys. I can't wait to get it on the road. I ordered the pypes exhaust system for wagons. I need it to complete the fabrication of my shock bar and frame x brace. Also ordered helwig sway bars. They Also require some welding and fab work. After I completely mock everything up we plan to blast the floors and get ready to repair the metal and then pull the body off the frame to finish the frame.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-11-2015, 10:09 AM
The exhaust system showed up. Looks like the shock bar is a no go. I built it based on the existing exhaust system routing and the pypes is much different and pretty much uses all the space that a shock bar wants to be. As it looks any hope for a shock bar will have to be a bolt in and below the exhaust. Removable so exhaust can be replaced. So back to the drawing board. Guess I should have looked at the nomad install pics on the pypes website first lol. The rest of the system looks like it fits pretty nice. I might have to mod the parking brake brackets on the frame to clear mufflers. I just hope the new hellwig adjustable sway bar I'm waiting on clears the mufflers. The crossover just clears the trans crossmember I have fabricated. I'm considering putting an x brace in the frame at the crossover. Space is looking good to do that. I'm mostly wanting to integrate a drive shaft loop for safety.
Rocky



http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-41.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-43.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-45.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-46.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-18-2015, 04:33 PM
I managed to fit a shock bar in under the pypes exhaust.
I had some Oddball galvanized thick wall tubing that just clears everything.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-48.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-49.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-50.jpg

chevynut
01-18-2015, 08:11 PM
Wow that looks a little tight. Hope it works out and you don't have and rattles. What are you using for a rear suspension? Do you need the snubber?

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-19-2015, 06:44 AM
Wow that looks a little tight. Hope it works out and you don't have and rattles. What are you using for a rear suspension? Do you need the snubber?
I here you. I hope I can avoid rattles too. The exhaust itself has only about 1/4 inch of clearance to the frame and floor without a shock bar. It exits to the out side of the frame and over the rear leaf. They have a nomad installation on the pypes website but it is probably stock height.

Yes I need the snubber but maybe not because at the moment the axle snubbers will hit the frame first. I only have about 2.25 inches of travel right now before it will hit the frame snubbers. I ordered Detroit Eaton 6 leaf wagon 2 inch drop springs. I installed them (one of them) and could tell they were not drop springs. After getting what I thought was the typical run around by the sales staff they connected me to the head guy. He started the same bla bla about car needed all the weight in it and I told him look stop with the sale bs these are not drop springs. So after several emails I proved to him they sent the wrong springs. So He was now mad because I called him a salesmen and he started trying to justify he had 38 years of spring design experience. So the guy ask me how much more you need and I popped off it looks like I need about 4 more inches. So I emailed him and said instead of making them 2 inch just send me 3 inch drop springs this time and we should be good. So I sent them back and they returned in a few weeks. When I checked the work order he sent the expert spring designer marked 3.5 inch drop on it. They don't even offer a 3.5 inch drop springs. Anyhow they are real flat. I'm considering having them re-arched again locally to raise the back by 1 inch. I like the current stance but plan to tow with it so I figure I need at least 3 inches of suspension travel. I ordered the new varishock grand touring shocks that just came out. I'm putting Camaro shocks on the back sense it is shorter now with the lowered springs and shock bar.

I'm hoping a 9 bolt rear pumpkin isn't any bigger than the stock as far as clearing the bar. I really need to determine that because I'm considering that upgrade.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-19-2015, 11:27 AM
I got my new original reduce diameter (16 inch) steering wheel in the mail it looks pretty good. The guy did a great job on it best I can tell.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_1732.jpg

chevynut
01-19-2015, 12:32 PM
I only have about 2.25 inches of travel right now before it will hit the frame snubbers.

Aren't the axle snubbers like 2" tall? That means you have 4.25" between the axle and the frame. Stock is 5.72" at curb weight so you really only have a 1.5" drop.

What is the distance from the axle to the frame hump?



I'm hoping a 9 bolt rear pumpkin isn't any bigger than the stock as far as clearing the bar. I really need to determine that because I'm considering that upgrade.

What's a "9 bolt"? :) Are you putting a 9" in it? I had the impression the pumpkin is quite a bit bigger, but others can verify.

Rick_L
01-19-2015, 01:11 PM
I'm not near any, but I think the snubbers are a lot taller than 2".

Judging by the difference in ring gear size, a 9" axle housing is going to be around 3/8" bigger in any direction than a stocker. This assumes the designers used the same internal clearance.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-19-2015, 02:01 PM
I have some new snubbers at home. I'll have to measure them. I guess then from what you guys are saying these wagons did not have much suspension travel to begin with. The curb height was 5.725 and the design height was 3.625. If the snubbers are 2 inches tall for example then the design height must be a dynamic load condition at full suspension compression because we would only be off the snubbers about .10 inches at design height. Perhaps I can just get by trimming the new snubbers a bit and leaving everything as is. My shock bar in its current location is just over 3 inches above the stock pumpkin at its closest point. If a 9 inch is only about 3/8 bigger I should be ok I would guess. Worst case I can always joggle the shock bar to clear it but would prefer not to.

chevynut
01-19-2015, 02:26 PM
Rocky, I don't understand what you're saying.

The stock distance from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame is 5.725" at curb weight. If the snubber is 2" tall, you still have 3.725" of suspension travel. The distance at design LOAD (maximum load) is 3.625" so you still have 1.625" of suspension travel. I just looked at some snubbers and they look to be 2-2.5" tall...I didn't measure them.

Cutting off the axle snubbers is an option, and I wouldn't hesitate to do it. I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish, though.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-19-2015, 03:03 PM
Sorry my bad I did the math wrong. I stand corrected.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-01-2015, 09:46 AM
I Finally recieved my new shocks (fronts) and both my hellwig sway bars. I have no excuses now for completing the chassis mockup and welding. I have been working on my exhaust down pipes and they have been kicking my azz but after 2 days of struggle I finally got them figured out. With only given amounts of prebent mandrel pipe angles and trying to mate to the pre bent pypes cross over was tuff to say the least. Own a easier note I have the ls2 plumbed to a factory rad thanks to those who have already figured out hose part numbers that work perfect!!!! made it a breeze. I am also starting to mock up the air intake progress goes on.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_16.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_15.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_11.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_14.jpg

chevynut
03-01-2015, 10:20 AM
Nice stuff Rocky. Why did you select the Varishock over other shocks on the market? I know they make coilovers too.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-01-2015, 11:03 AM
Nice stuff Rocky. Why did you select the Varishock over other shocks on the market? I know they make coilovers too.

I was planning to just run belsteins like my cutlass has but Marcus suggested these as an upgrade there suppose to be tuned for performance street driving rather than the more expensive series that are adjustable for track tuning etc. I'm building a cruiser so figured these would be a better chose for my application and budget. These are apparently a brand new product from varashock.
See link for more info if interested.
http://scandc.com/new/node/976

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-18-2015, 07:46 PM
My air intake components showed up today. Pretty pleased with it. Ignor the PVC pipe I need to order a 6 inch piece of 4 inch tube. I hoping to draw cold air in behind the inner fender. I plan to paint it all black including the air box & hard mount the air box to the inner fender.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_20.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-18-2015, 08:02 PM
I picked up my down pipes from the weld shop not overly impressed with welds considering the price tag so I went out and bought some stainless mig wire as you guys suggested and plan to weld the rest of the system myself. After a little post weld hand forming(large cheater pipe bender) I managed to fit them in and tuck them up against the old trans horns nicely. The exhaust system sits in nice now in front. I'm working on hanging the back now trying to figure out frame hanger brackets. The stock emergency cables and brackets need to be relocated to avoid scraping the mufflers every time you use the E-brake. So I'm trying to figure out how to integrate a new E-brake cable bracket that will also serve to hang the exhaust system. I could have removed the trans horns and tucked the entire exhaust system above the frame but the 6l80 trans pan then becomes the landing spot for bottoming out. I am going to design a semi structural member across the trans horns in front of the trans pan and integrate a skid pad that runs from the front cross member back to the trans cross member. I cross 2 cattle guards in my driveway and there approach and exit are hard on low riders.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_22.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-27-2015, 06:12 AM
I reworked the air intake much cleaner now and far less pieces. I'm using a 6 inch chrome exhaust band clamp from a peterbuilt truck to mount the air filter to the inner fender.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_2336.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_2335.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/IMG_2335.jpg.html)

The stainless exhaust is a different story. It's kicking my azz. The pre bent tail pipes didn't fit after I put full weight on the car. The lowered leafs want let it exit as designed which is between the spring and frame so I'm trying to route it under the frame and get around the wagon tank. It real tight area to get thru.

chevynut
03-27-2015, 06:50 AM
Looking good Rocky. What kind of air filter is that?

Isn't exhaust routing a PITA? :eek:

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-27-2015, 07:31 AM
Looking good Rocky. What kind of air filter is that?

Isn't exhaust routing a PITA? :eek:
It sure is..

The air intake components including filter are all spectre performance parts. http://www.spectreperformance.com/default.aspx
they have smaller dia sleeker inline filters also.
Thanks
Rocky

chevynut
03-27-2015, 10:00 AM
I'm curious how well those inline air filters really flow. I couldn't find any specs on them. The filter area looks like it's about 4 5/8" x 12" x 4 1/2". That's about 38 square inches of filter area pleated. And that's the big one.

http://www.spectreperformance.com/drawings/SPE-9831.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-27-2015, 01:31 PM
I sure hope it sucks lol. I believe the smaller ones are probably bettered used in a dual intake setup. The filter material is more or less same a K&N. It is washable & reusable.

Rick_L
03-27-2015, 02:00 PM
I bought the same assembly for mine. The routing will be a little simpler - it will just make a single 90º bend off the throttle body and then run horizontally behind the radiator support to the inner fender. I'm going to build a baffle inside the inner fender so that water splash won't be sucked into the airstream should I ever have to drive in the rain, and I know will even if I don't want to.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-27-2015, 03:25 PM
Rick, I believe Roger posted a setup like that he built his on baffle or box inside the fender. He posted it in the 4 inch tube discussion on the other site. It was super clean looking for sure.

Laz only data I've found are post on LS1tech and several folks running them on boosted cars pushing above 600 hp. I will probably be ok with my stock LS2 I would assume.

Rick_L
03-27-2015, 03:52 PM
rocky, I saw roger's inner fender box/baffle. It's what I had in mind even before he did his. He did a pretty nice job.

Are you going through the inner fender to pick up outside air on yours?

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-27-2015, 04:51 PM
rocky, I saw roger's inner fender box/baffle. It's what I had in mind even before he did his. He did a pretty nice job.

Are you going through the inner fender to pick up outside air on yours?
I'm hoping to draw cold air up from behind the inner fender between it and the body. Via the flex duct I'm showing in pic.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
04-27-2015, 09:18 AM
After weeks of getting it handed to me I finally got it going my way with the stainless exhaust system. I chose the traditional wagon exit out the back corners. I was considering the bow tie extensions but wasn’t sure they would work with 2.5 inch tubing so I chose to do turn downs instead. The way the pipes ended up crisscrossing the rear frame I had a hard time figuring out a hanger bracket so I decided to anchor it directly in the frame using weld in barrel nuts worked pretty nice. The barrel nuts will come in handed with the rest of the frame build. http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_29.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_30.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_31.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_27.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-23-2015, 04:29 PM
Fabricated some E brake/muffler hanger brackets to work with the pypes exhaust. Also installing the helwig pro-touring rear sway bar. I have some concerns about the sway bar bracket around the axle. You have to rotate them FWD to clear the wagon tank. Sense they point FWD and hang below the frame the can can get hit in front and cause it to rotate the clamp about the axle. I have had it happen on my pro-touring cutlass when I pulled out of a parking lot and hit a chunk of broken curb. It pushed it around 90 degrees. No big deal just loosened and correct pre load in the suspension. If that happened on this nomad it could puncher the fuel tank. I'm considering welding it to the axle to prevent


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_43.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_41.jpg

Rick_L
05-23-2015, 05:38 PM
Shorten the link?

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-24-2015, 08:00 AM
Rick that might help I will investigate today I haven't drilled any holes yet so options are still open.
Thanks
Rocky

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-25-2015, 10:11 AM
Installed the helwig front sway bar today. Really nice setup. Fit perfect with the economy lower arms. The sway bar is now the limiting factor on tire turning radius. So the placement of the LS2& Holley pan is a non issue now.


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_44.jpg

Rick after looking at the clearance between clamp and stock tank on the rear bar I might be able to remove the material & sharp edges on the sway bar brackets and help negate the possible problem. Time to order brakes there the next hurdle to cross in the mockup phase.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-29-2015, 08:12 AM
Got brake system started LOL . Installed Cnut's booster bracket fits real nice!!!!
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_45.jpg

chevynut
05-29-2015, 02:47 PM
Rocky, If you want the Hydroboost accumulator on the opposite side as the engine, you'll have to turn that adapter around so the indent is on the left. Glad you like it. ;)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-29-2015, 03:46 PM
I figured as much lol. What year models fit the bracket? I'm fully commited now i ordered a complete brake kit with a master setup for hrdroboost. I have family in salvage yard business want to buy a used one for mockup.
Thanks
Rocky

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
05-30-2015, 12:06 PM
I test fit a rear shock to the shock bar today looks like I have about 2.5 inches of travel left in the shock. This is a camaro shock. I should be ok sense the bump stops are going to limited suspension to 2 inches of travel when I trim them.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_46.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-28-2015, 09:58 AM
Test fitted the new front disk today. Looks like its probably 1/8 wider track than the stock drum. I'm pretty happy. Front tire clearnce to the 255 tire looks good. About 1/2 inch to fender lip from the wides section. I'll Probably roll fender lip to remove the sharp edge for insurance.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_52.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_53.jpg

I'm planning on running this tire on all 4. Its a 255/50/17 27 (tel:255/50/17 27) inchs tall. I actually got to see the real deal yesterday at a local rod run. This 55 even had the same wheel Im running.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_55.jpg

Troberts
06-28-2015, 10:39 AM
Boy - you are going to have an awesome looking & running Nomad!!!

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-28-2015, 12:57 PM
Thanks but I got a long ways to go to catch up with yours.

chevynut
06-29-2015, 02:19 PM
Test fitted the new front disk today. Looks like its probably 1/8 wider track than the stock drum. I'm pretty happy. Front tire clearnce to the 255 tire looks good. About 1/2 inch to fender lip from the wides section. I'll Probably roll fender lip to remove the sharp edge for insurance.

I guess to me a 1/8" wider than stock track with disc brakes is hard to believe. Have you actually measured it?

I believe the front fender lip to fender lip clearance is around 71". If you only have 1/2" clearance per side the outside of your tires is probably 70" wide! Subtract 255mm (~10") from that and you get 60" which is just about 1/2" wider than stock, and about where you would be with a so-called "zero-offset" disc brake setup.

Looking at it with the front tires straight ahead doesn't tell you much. Have you tried to turn the tires to full lock and compress the suspension a little in front? I truly don't believe you're going to get away with a 255 tire on front, even with only a 2" front drop. Hate to burst your bubble, but IMO it will rub.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-29-2015, 02:41 PM
I guess to me a 1/8" wider than stock track with disc brakes is hard to believe. Have you actually measured it?

I believe the front fender lip to fender lip clearance is around 71". If you only have 1/2" clearance per side the outside of your tires is probably 70" wide! Subtract 255mm (~10") from that and you get 60" which is just about 1/2" wider than stock, and about where you would be with a so-called "zero-offset" disc brake setup.

Looking at it with the front tires straight ahead doesn't tell you much. Have you tried to turn the tires to full lock and compress the suspension a little in front? I truly don't believe you're going to get away with a 255 tire on front, even with only a 2" front drop. Hate to burst your bubble, but IMO it will rub.

The kit is the so called zero offset. The mounting flange of the disk is about .25 thick compared to a drum which I believe is about .125 thick. That's why I said 1/8 and I'm talking per side or .25 total across both sides.

Yes I have bounced the fender off the bottom stops with tire at full turn (which is less than stock now) and had clearance to the tire with my finger between fender lip and tire.

Keep in mind the negative camber gives you about .3 or .4 inches per side at the fender lip over stock. The tall ball joints also alter the travel of the suspension so I'm not sure how that plays in but it appears these are going to work. The taller 50 series tire might get close. I'm thanking I'll put some play doe on the current tire and see what happens and find the limits.

chevynut
06-29-2015, 02:49 PM
Okay your numbers just about match mine. However, that means your mounting surface is about 59 3/4" or so wide.

What is your wheel offset?

I'm not sure I see how you're getting .3-.4" more clearance with camber. How much are you running?

I'm really surprised you don't have rubbing issues. Lots of guys have problems with much smaller tires and only around 68-68.5" tire width. You're right, the taller balljoints increase camber gain so the top of the tire does move inboard as the suspension is compressed. Hope it works for you. ;)

chevynut
06-29-2015, 02:51 PM
Oh yeah, and why aren't you getting the thumbnails at the bottom of your posts like I do????? :)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-29-2015, 02:59 PM
With the calulator using a track width of 59.75 using a 255 on 8 inch zero offset wheel states a clearance of .61 to fender lip. I actually have like an inch at the top edge of the tire. When I say 1/2 inch thats from the center of the tire where it buldges out the most. So with the .61 & .4 camber looks pretty close to what calulator is perdicting.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-29-2015, 03:02 PM
.5 degree negative = about .38 approx at top of a 26 inch tall tire.

chevynut
06-29-2015, 06:04 PM
With the calulator using a track width of 59.75 using a 255 on 8 inch zero offset wheel states a clearance of .61 to fender lip. I actually have like an inch at the top edge of the tire. When I say 1/2 inch thats from the center of the tire where it buldges out the most. So with the .61 & .4 camber looks pretty close to what calulator is perdicting.

Okay, let's assume you have a 59.75" mounting surface width and a 255 tire on a zero offset wheel. That puts the outside of your tires at 69.75" across the bulges at zero camber.

A .5 degree camber only gives you 13.5 * tan (.5) or .118" of offset at the top of the tire from where it would be with zero camber. Not sure how you're getting so much offset, but you can't use the whole 27" diameter, only the radius from the mounting surface. At the bulge it's probably a little more than half of that. So you're well over 69" wide at the bulge.

The good thing is a 55 has a higher front fender opening than a 56 or 57. Since you restricted the steering, that will help too. I think with a stock steering radius you'd have bad rubbing problems.

Rick_L
06-29-2015, 06:49 PM
I've followed the numbers here and they are pretty good. I don't think a 255 tire is going to make it. Even with the steering angle stopped down. Just my $.02.

My setup is similar except that I have 225 tires and 4.5" BS with 7" rims. I am just shy of 69" across the tires, and it's going to rub with full steering travel and some deflection of the suspension, like when you negotiate a driveway. I don't think by much but it will.

At full steering travel my tires are going to hit the frame too, so there's not really any wiggle room except for reducing steering travel.

I haven't made a good measurement of how far across the car the fender lips are. There is not much opportunity on the 55 quarter panels to work on the lips - and I think that's true on the fronts too but I haven't verified that.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-30-2015, 04:11 AM
The limit factor on steering is now the sway bar on mine. I want hit the frame no matter what wheel or offset I run. The .3 to .4 is the delta between the top of the tire and bottom of tire. Thats what I measured on my other car which is set to -.5 degree camber. So I adjusted the arms to have the tire setting the same. And thats how it is set now for my test fit. Its not dialed in but its pretty close to were it should be when aligned. I agree the 55 doesnt have much of a lip to remove before your into the fender wall itself. I just want to roll the sharp edges over to keep it from cutting tires when it does rub.

chevynut
06-30-2015, 07:31 AM
The limit factor on steering is now the sway bar on mine. I want hit the frame no matter what wheel or offset I run.

Do you know how much you're limiting the steering from stock? I know that my C4 rack also has a bit less steering angle than stock. I'm running a 245 tire in front and at full lock I still have about 3/4" between the frame and tire. I think I could run a 255 tire but I don't want to try it. One difference is that the C4 suspension has an 8.744 degree SAI (steering axis inclination) so the tire actually seems to move fore and aft more when it turns. I have a 3" suspension drop, a little more than 67.5" tire width and I don't believe I'll get any rubbing even at full suspension compression with the wheels turned. Of course you could make an even bigger tire work if you don't steer the car. ;)


The .3 to .4 is the delta between the top of the tire and bottom of tire. Thats what I measured on my other car which is set to -.5 degree camber.

The math doesn't match your measurement. If it really was .5 degrees and you had a 27" tire the difference across the entire tire would be 27*tan(.5) which is .236". From the wheel mounting surface to the top of the tire is half that. You're set at .64-.85 degrees now.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-30-2015, 09:41 AM
I'm not sure what the steering limit is but this is all its got. I'm just clearing the sway bar in this picture. I can push the fender to bottom out suspension stops and I clear the tire. I can feel the tire just touch my finger on the fender edge when doing so. This is a 25.95 dia tire so the taller tire is going to be close.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_58.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-30-2015, 09:50 AM
This is the 55 that has the rear tire size I'm wanting to use. Not sure what brake or suspension but he is running a 7 inch wheel and 235 tire and has noticable rubbing on the front tire. His wheels also appear to be alot futher out compared to what mine looks like.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_59.jpg

chevynut
06-30-2015, 10:56 AM
A 255 tire in the rear should be no problem, if you can get it off and on okay. Once it's on, a 275 tire will work.

To tell how much steering you lost just look at the distance between the steering arm and the steering stop bracket on the lower a-arm. I guess I'm surprised they would make a swaybar that hit the tire. Are you just going to let it rub, or are you going to put new stops in place? It will be interesting to see how much turning radius you've lost.

How do you push the fender down so the suspension bottoms out on the lower bumper? Seems to me that would be really hard to do. If it's that easy, you're probably going to have rubbing problems. Maybe you should modify the suspension bumper to limit travel.

BTW, you need to sweep your shop. :) :)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-30-2015, 02:21 PM
I have a 15 /205 /75 (tel:15 /205 /75) tire on the other side on a steel rim and I hit the sway bar with it even before I do with the 255 & 8 inch wheel. The steering stop is about 1/2 inch off the stops.

FYI Real nomads don't have the tire removal issue LOL.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-01-2015, 06:05 AM
I also read that just by adding the zero offset brakes you loose close to 3/8 of steering due to the steering arm being moved in by the thickness of the caliber bracket.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-01-2015, 06:14 AM
My new hitch arived yesterday. I hope its strong enough lol. I think I picked the wrong model. The jeep cherokee was suppose to be almost exact fit the trifive thread said lol. But know one had model numbers. Anyhow the good news is I will have no problems getting the pump below the tank lol. Looks like a little mod to the pretty powder coated hitch is in order. I'm planning to run a smoothy sedan bumper and mount the lic plate on the hitch & light it with motorcycle lic plate bolt lights.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_60.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-04-2015, 09:13 AM
This is the look I'm going for. I did a crude photo chop. I'm going to try and mount the plate so the top stays below the top clean line of the sedan smoothy bumper. It looks like the draw hitch needs to be about 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the bumper to achieve that. I'm going to section the curt hitch and weld it onto some 3 inch structural angle I have and tuck part of the cross tube between the bumper and original frame rear cross member.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/MADREAR.jpg

chevynut
07-04-2015, 10:32 AM
Have you considered what that plate is going to look like from the side? Seems like it's going to stick up in an awkward position and look like it's just "stuck on" the bumper. I really like the wagon bumper because it's recessed for the plate.

What are you planning to tow with the car? The receiver looks like it sits way far below the bumper. Also noticed you have an additional crossmember at the back of the frame from some prior hitch? I would have just built the hitch from scratch the way you wanted it. ;)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-04-2015, 02:22 PM
You are correct the current hitch is way to low. I apparently bought the wrong model its for a grand cherokee not a cherokee and was suppose to be a prefect fit. Looking at it I can tuck it up behind the bumper. As for the smoothy bumpers I've located that have not been custom built they are for sedans only and do not have the flat portion for the plate. From the side the bracket will mount the plate at an angle to lay against the bumper contour as best I can. Holding it up against my current bumper side section it seems to look ok from a side view. We plan to tow a 16ft retro camper some day. I also plan to tow my single axle utility trailer with our RZR.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_62.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-12-2015, 03:25 PM
With a little hacking the wrong hitch fits perfect. Most of the cross tube is hidden behind the bumper now.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_65.jpg


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_66.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-12-2015, 03:36 PM
I moved the project outside for the summer. My shop is just to hot this time of year.

I got my first real look at ground clearances. They are a little close for my liking. The taller tires will help some. The exhaust pipes under the frame horns are only 4.25 off the ground.. The holley oil pan is 6.25 off the ground. The 6l80 trans pan is also only about 4.5. Im still considering a skid pad. My 2 raised cattle guards are hard on equipment.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_67.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_68.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-18-2015, 06:12 PM
I completed the hitch installation and located the inline pump & vet filter regulator. Very pleased with the results. Looking like the fuel line routing will work good from these locations.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_70.jpg

Troberts
07-19-2015, 04:54 AM
Nice - keep up the good work!!!

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-19-2015, 08:37 AM
Thanks yours turned out great!!! Congrats..

Today I'm going to attempt to build Russell DIY hoses. C'nut said it was easy we shall see lol. Headed out to get a new hack saw now.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-19-2015, 02:36 PM
Turned out Cnut was right. The russell hoses are a piece of cake to assemble. Routing turned out fairly simple. I even layed out a route for the main feed line all the way to the engine. I understand now why guys choose to route the fuel line on the outside of the frame rail. I ordered 10 ft of hose and it turned out to he the exact amount I needed for this part of the fuel system. Just need to add the P clamps and it will be done.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_72.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_71.jpg

chevynut
07-19-2015, 08:40 PM
Looks pretty nice Rocky. Did you measure the size of the hole in the 1/8" pipe fitting? ;)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-20-2015, 06:35 AM
Looks pretty nice Rocky. Did you measure the size of the hole in the 1/8" pipe fitting? ;)

Yes sir and as it turns out the nice Russell aka "full flow" fittings are much smaller than the ole lowes plumbing dept lol. I drilled out the russell 1/8 npt should be fine but I did buy a 1/4 npt fitting and will try to drill and tap tank for 1/4 npt as you suggested although I trust most of the advise you share here I'm not going to test your gas tanks want blow theroy I'll wait till i buy a brand new tank to drill it lol.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-21-2015, 01:38 PM
The math doesn't match your measurement. If it really was .5 degrees and you had a 27" tire the difference across the entire tire would be 27*tan(.5) which is .236". From the wheel mounting surface to the top of the tire is half that. You're set at .64-.85 degrees now.

I figured out the math error I'm running -1 degree of camber not -.5 so the .3 .to .4 delta measurement adds up now. This means my tire clearance should be even better than I have measured because I have it roughly set at -.5 degrees at the moment. I had previously quoted the street settings but I have been running the aggressive street mild comp settings which has more negative camber.http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_73.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-25-2015, 03:41 PM
With the fuel system pretty much mocked up I moved on to creating a center brace and drive shaft safety loop. I ended up integrating it into the existing trans crossmember. I mocked it up today pretty happy so far. I hoping I can notch in a short piece of 6 inch pipe into the 1.62 dia tube I have running across. I used a piece of pvc as a draft shaft. I plan to gusset the 6 inch pipe onto the smaller tubing. This area of the floor is raised above the frame to allow a fair size gusset. The entire system will unbolt and slide back to remove the trans. Now that I've started down this path I plan to revise the way the trans crossmember is mounted and tie that into the frame rails a little more solid than it is now.

I also starting looking at running another cross member in front of the trans pan and behind the bell housing to help protect it. I plan to bolt it up to the original trans frame horns. I plan to attach the belly pan to this crossmember.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_76.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_75.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-26-2015, 07:47 AM
This is my first stab at the belly pan design based on some quick measurements I took yesterday. Looks like 4x4 sheet of aluminum should do it.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_77.jpg

NickP
07-26-2015, 09:19 AM
I had to go over to the other site to view your progress. Using a proxy server has its limitation on viewing here. Bellypan? What's its purpose?

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-26-2015, 11:52 AM
Nick the 6L80 hangs down below the frame. I can change the pan and gain more clearance but its still to low for my liking. My exhaust also hang down because I left the original frame horns in. I cross over 2 raised cattle guards in my 1200 ft driveway they are hard on lowered cars because of there width and the slope on both sides. Our rural roads also become very rutted with the heavy O&G trucks in the area. Bottom line it is going to scrape now and then & I'm not going to worry about it. Piece of mind is why.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-26-2015, 12:05 PM
My welder is out of gas so the cross member is on hold. So today I looked into mounting the ecm. I choice to mount it behind the passenger inner fender. It is pretty well hidden in that location.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_79.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_80.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
08-03-2015, 11:45 AM
I moved back to the safety loop & got it located. Hard part done. After futher thought the skid plate will be about 1/3 the size I modeled the first one. It will be T shaped and only shield the lowest point of the exhaust and the trans pan. The oil pan is slightly above the front crossmember so I should be ok there.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_81.jpg

Eds56
08-30-2015, 07:46 AM
Impressive documentation thus far, that's gonna be an amazing ride!! Good luck.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
08-30-2015, 01:02 PM
Thanks Ed!!! I like the painted ralleys on your 56 they look great.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
09-21-2015, 09:01 AM
I scored a hydrobooster with master and hoses for 75$ over the weekend. Can't wait to try out C'nuts custom Bracket I purchased and mockup the system. I'm totally green on this hydro stuff even though it has been around awhile now. I've never owned anything that had it.

Other than that I started trying to learn how to use a dolly and hammer. The rusted qtr needs some work and it will have to be done or is easier to access with the bottom cut out prior to welding the panel. I was able to reach a lot of the panel from the access opening inside but even that is tough and a strain even on me and I'm 6-5 tall. I might have to recruit help to hold the dolly before I'm done. I took pictures inside and in the area above the wheel and as Robert suspected there is some pitting in that area, not sure the extent yet, over all its not looking to bad, some areas the door jams don't even have surface rust they are bright and shinny to my surprise.http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_102.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_101.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
09-21-2015, 09:56 AM
Almost forgot. Played with some cookie cutter paint color has Cnut calls it lol. I got my local paint supply to mix some spray cans. I really like the interior samples Gina sent against the actuaual paint colors.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_103.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
10-25-2015, 11:59 AM
Made some progress over the rainy weekend. Got the bone yard hydrobooster installed and connected to the brake pedal. I'm very happy with the adjustment in the pedal. I was able to get it close to the floor beyond the factory brake switch range of operation but luckly the LS brake switch is longer so I want have to modify the switch bracket or add a stop to trigger it.

I successfully removed the script from a set of old school valve covers to dress up the ls2 vet covers not sure how I'm going to attach them just yet. The plan is to paint them and the covers chevy orange with black script.

I've also been trying to determine how and were to install speakers in my nomad. I considered the tail gate, side panels in the back seat or perhaps the spare tire well. All of the ideas were going to be covered flush with a custom cut bowtie pattern stainless grill. Going thru a box of old parts I came across a pair of 210 speaker grills. I've decided to go with speaker kick panels and build some mobile boxes for the back using original grills and wrap them in the matching interior materials.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_118.jpg
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_119.jpg

Zoomin
10-27-2015, 07:48 PM
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb15/Zoominz06/5D6F37AF-AE47-43FF-9B5A-CD155412A91F_zpsbyznoaea.jpgLike the speaker enclosures too.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
10-28-2015, 06:53 AM
That looks great Zoom thanks for posting!!! I'm to lazy to relocate the coils or I would have gone that route. It looks great with everything blacked out. I thanks I'm seeing Norma's future LOL........

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-01-2015, 07:41 AM
Well another rainy weekend. I managed to get the covers painted. The script will be black when completed. I had originally planned to paint the entire cover chevy red orange but decided to keep them black instead. After getting the hydra booster installed and seeing how clean it looks I started rethinking the air box. So i decided to re route the air intake down and out the front right behind the grill. It really cleaned the engine bay up. I'm really happy with how clean the installion of the ls2 is in a trifive with no real effort to hide anything.

The sectra airfilter is rather small as C'nut pointed out. I will be replacing it with a bigger k&n. I plan to build a cage around it to chop the grass hoppers up on the way in lol.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_120.jpg

chevynut
11-01-2015, 07:51 AM
Clean? My wife wouldn't say that's "clean". She'd say it's rusty and the paint is peeling. LOL! :)

The covers look nice...I thought they were photoshopped.

You gotta get that battery tray outta there!!! ;)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-01-2015, 08:18 AM
Thanks Cnut. Right after the epoxy dried I realized I should have cut the ends of the script plates the same angle as the Line under the LS2 logo but to late. I think when I get every thing blacked out it will looking good. I'm even considering blacking out the firewall up to a point instead of body color not sure on that just yet.

My55
11-01-2015, 06:13 PM
Hey Rocky Topper that's a nice find! I know at least 2 people who would love to find a 55 Nomad in not so bad shape. I am 1 of those 2 people. I also love the look of the bigger rounded OE look of the rear wheel wells, it gives it a more bossy look! Remember 'Tim the tool man's' 55 Nomad which got crushed on the 'Home Improvement' show! How could they do that !!! I hope that seen was fake! ...I'm considering options for my speedo on my 55 2 dr. I'm putting in an LT1 and possibly a 4L60E auto trans which has an electric vehicle speed sensor. I either have to change my speedo all together to electronic like u are doing or get a convertor to take the electronic signal and drive the OE cable and OE setup. I like your mockup design! What kind of gauges were u planning on using? Any cost effective ideas appreciated from anyone! Thanks in advance!:):D

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-01-2015, 06:46 PM
Thanks 55. I was planning to use autometer gauges as shown in the picture. I also considered classic instruments who make a tech speedo and a matching 4 sweep gauge in 3 -3/8 size. I have sense decided to stay totally stock using an xbox to drive the speedo and display the rest of the gauges via obdii wireless to an Ipad in the glove box. If I dont stay stock I'm going with the DD vhx gauge set.
Rocky

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-23-2016, 06:13 PM
Scored a new bumper. The first time this x gasser has had one in several decades lol.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_153.jpg

Custer55
01-23-2016, 07:13 PM
Rocky, What size are your wheels and tires? They look nice on your Nomad. I'm still on the fence as to what style wheels I want for my 55. The Trans Am wheels I have will fit but for sure are not the style or size I want. At least they are a good starting point size wise though.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
01-24-2016, 06:54 AM
Rocky, What size are your wheels and tires? They look nice on your Nomad. I'm still on the fence as to what style wheels I want for my 55. The Trans Am wheels I have will fit but for sure are not the style or size I want. At least they are a good starting point size wise though.

Thanks they are 17x8 zero offset wheel tire is 255/45/17 nitto 555. I plan to run a 255/55/17 when done. Its 27 inch tall. I may run same tire on back or considering going to an 18x9 with a 265/50/18 on back. If I can fit a 9 inch on the front (looking like it gets close to upper ball joint) I plan to run 9 inch wheels on all 4.
Rocky

NickP
01-24-2016, 12:42 PM
Taking shape!


Scored a new bumper. The first time this x gasser has had one in several decades lol.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_153.jpg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
03-17-2016, 05:04 PM
Thanks much Nick. I'm still busy trying to fix the rust. After I get the passenger side Qtr and rocker patched I plan to pull the body and install a complete front floor assembly. I have been busy lately checking the steering radius loss I have with the setup I chose after the long drawn out suspension analysis thread. As Rick L pointed out it might not be Idea for autox. I checked it against my cutlass and I have slightly less than it has at full turn and it could use more radius on an Ax course. I contacted the suppliers of my components and learned that I do have a true zero offset front brake system. I mounted the rotor on my stock drum hub and the rotor is .25 thick so I assumed the wheels are pushed out by .125 each side but turns out they are going to go inboard .125 when I install the brake kit hubs because they are machined down to accommodate the rotor thickness. this means I will loose a little more radius than I have now. I can turn stop to stop with the 255 tire with out the hellwig bar installed. It also turns out that the CPP zero offset kit runs bigger calipers than the standard kits I upgraded to willwoods. I also learned the mounting brackets do not limit the steering like some other kits do. I was surprised I assumed they did. Anyhow I thank I will just live with the loss sense I don't plan to do much Ax in this car. But it looks very achievable to run a 255 tire up front and get full steering with a zero offset brake kit but one would have to buy or build a splined front sway bar with flat arms running back to the lower A arms. Or maybe I could switch to a stock 7/8 bar and gain some back. David AKA hellwig pretty much said that the 1-1/4 bar will rub with a stock drum and tire. Sense my ls2 engine placement limits steering already and I would have to move my engine back I'm going to just live with as is. It looks like Dave is running a 255/45/18 on the front of his 57. If I can clear the upper arm ball joint I might switch to 18's in front and run 18x9 wheels on all 4. I'm looking at running the 265/50/18 in back that looks like what he has also. Even with my nose dropped 2.5 and the rear 1.5 I'm still nose up. The 265 tire is 28.4 dia hoping to get a little rake if I can.
Rocky




http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_167.jpg[/QUOTE]
http://pic40.picturetrail.com:80/VOL280/10740363/19303756/402472662.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com:80/VOL280/10740363/19303756/402472663.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com:80/VOL280/10740363/19303756/402472664.jpg
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL280/10740363/19303756/402472702.jpg[/QUOTE]

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
04-10-2016, 02:05 PM
Ok I went for it. A/C vents located. All 4 in Dash.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_188.jpg

chevynut
04-10-2016, 02:49 PM
You actually CUT a stock dash? :eek:

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
04-10-2016, 03:54 PM
You actually CUT a stock dash? :eek:
Somehow I knew you would approve lol. I choice function over form I guess lol.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
06-07-2016, 01:10 PM
Finished one of the last mockup task before removing all the front sheet metal for blasting. I mounted the intake and filter thru the core support. I thought I was going to have to design and build a mounting brackets to support the 4 inch tubing but thanks to C'nut for pointing out that the spectra air filter I had originally purchased might be a bit small in terms of airflow so after cutting 4-1/4 hole in the core panel I took the spectra air filter over to my 14 inch chop saw and cut the wire and paper element off and used the rubber flange as a gromment to hold the tubing in the core panel. It worked perfect and gives the system some flexibility while holding it firmly secure. My baby will soon be going to paint jail... I hate paint jail lol. He want have as much work now after stripping the tailgate and hitting it with a wire wheel it looked like swiss cheese in a few places so looks like I will be buying a new repop.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_10.jpeg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_11.jpeg

chevynut
06-07-2016, 01:51 PM
It always kinda sucks to go backwards on the build, but it's something you have to do. I liked how my car looked in primer...over a year ago. :(

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-11-2016, 07:02 AM
My original plan was to restore this nomad mechanically and repair the rust issues but drive it as a rat rod for a while before blowing her apart for a complete restoration. Well I blew that plan off and have starting blowing it in to pieces. So far the window channels are in perfect condition. Yesterday I pull the lift gate off and realized I had my hands full when that last bolt freed from the hinge. That thing is heavy lol... My tailgate ended up with more rust than I thought. It is repairable but I plan to buy a new one. I have one more slider and curve to remove then I'll tackle the door glass.

[URL=http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/Mobile%http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_16.jpeg

chevynut
07-11-2016, 10:04 AM
And this is how a frame-off rebuild starts. LOL! :) :)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
07-22-2016, 07:07 PM
I now have the mad almost completely strip in to pieces. The stainless trim was the hardest to remove I still have a few holes to drill and re-tap all in all I got most out. Car window chanels were really clean and solid all around. I was extremely happy to learn how easy the door glass and vent windows are to remove and or install. The head liner and door handles are all thats left before lift off.
Rocky

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
09-08-2016, 02:14 PM
Got a few custom designed chassis parts in the mail today from a new supplier. Really happy with the cleaness considering they were cnc plasma cut.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_24.jpeg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
09-08-2016, 02:19 PM
I also redesigned my custom wheel caps I plan to have machined. I even replicated an entire belair hubcap but with the details and only 3 inch diameter it kinda didn't work at that scale the details are to small so I stuck with a simpler design.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_25.jpeg

Rick_L
09-08-2016, 05:00 PM
That's pretty cool. Is it 3D printed?

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
09-08-2016, 05:29 PM
That's pretty cool. Is it 3D printed?

No thats a 3d cad rendering pretty cool stuff. Here is the Full belair cap version I mentioned above.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_26.jpeg

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-10-2016, 10:34 AM
Picked up my new caps today. I was real pleased with the way they turned out.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1237.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1239.jpg

55 Rescue Dog
11-10-2016, 02:15 PM
Looks good, nice touch.

BamaNomad
11-18-2016, 07:11 PM
... Remember 'Tim the tool man's' 55 Nomad which got crushed on the 'Home Improvement' show! How could they do that !!! I hope that seen was fake! ....


FYI... Before that wrecking ball hit, they slipped in a red 55 handyman wagon which was what got crushed... (Hate to seen of them crushed, but much better than crushing a nice Nomad).. :)

567chevys
11-19-2016, 02:22 PM
Them caps are very nice


Sid

markm
11-19-2016, 04:51 PM
FYI... Before that wrecking ball hit, they slipped in a red 55 handyman wagon which was what got crushed... (Hate to seen of them crushed, but much better than crushing a nice Nomad).. :)

Don't they know that's why they made Mopars.

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-20-2016, 05:57 PM
Them caps are very nice


Sid

Thanks my plan was to paint them but not sure after how they turned out right off the machine!!!! the 56 version appears to pop pretty good lol.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_1259.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/IMG_1259.jpg.html)

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/IMG_1260.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/IMG_1260.jpg.html)

BamaNomad
11-20-2016, 07:23 PM
they both look fabulous Rocky! :) I need a set.... :)

BamaNomad
11-22-2016, 11:24 AM
Rocky,

The ARE caps (from my 15x7 Torque Thrust wheels) measure ~3.61" across two holes (NOT the diameter of the attachment circle)... see photos. Will that flat cap clear the spindle/hub on the front??

6573

6574

6575

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-22-2016, 01:07 PM
Gary perhaps you answered the question that apparently the pattern is not standard even on AR wheels. The caps I had made are based on a 3.554 bolt circle and measure 3.38 straight across as you have shown 3.61. If your spindle caps stick out past the wheel face then no that would be a problem. Depending on how much one could machine a relief in the back side to clear. Mine are mounted on 17x8 wide wheels with zero offset the spindle cap is inside of the face.

If it makes you feel any better the reason I have not responded to you in a PM about the caps is the price is very high to get a set made. My gut said the company who quoted these had made a mistake based on the price I paid. Turns out they did. The owners son quoted me the price and meant each but his mail said for set of 4. When I ask them to quote them in quantity as many have been interested in them the mistake was caught. If you still want some we can design them to fit what ever your needs are because they gave me a quote for one off parts anyway. If your still interested in building a 57 version I can get them plasma cut from flat plate and the cost will be very affordable probably under 100$ for set of 4 made from aluminum of polished stainless.
Rocky

chevynut
11-23-2016, 05:57 AM
Gary perhaps you answered the question that apparently the pattern is not standard even on AR wheels.

That's what I was wondering about when so many guys on FB were asking for a set. I would have been a little surprised if the caps were standardized. So it looks like you have a one-off set. ;)

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-23-2016, 06:35 AM
That's what I was wondering about when so many guys on FB were asking for a set. I would have been a little surprised if the caps were standardized. So it looks like you have a one-off set. ;)

Oh well that was my intent when I made them lol... But we may need more data points to determine if all AR are standard with each other. Perhaps my Chinese knock offs licenced by AR are the odd ball......

BamaNomad
11-23-2016, 07:43 AM
Oh well that was my intent when I made them lol... But we may need more data points to determine if all AR are standard with each other. Perhaps my Chinese knock offs licenced by AR are the odd ball......

I think (suspect) that all ARE wheels (and probably most others except for the very expensive ones) are made in China nowadays... and probably the only thing 'standard' about them is that NONE of them are the same... :)

OK.. maybe that last statement was a bit extreme... let's change it to say ... they seem to 'change their spec' at will... :)

chevynut
11-23-2016, 08:06 AM
Come on BamaNomad, no matter where they're made there has to be some specs and their tolerances can't be that wide :eek:. I would call ARE and see if they are standard or not.

NickP
11-23-2016, 08:14 AM
Popcorn anyone?

rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
11-23-2016, 03:46 PM
I think (suspect) that all ARE wheels (and probably most others except for the very expensive ones) are made in China nowadays... and probably the only thing 'standard' about them is that NONE of them are the same... :)

Gary now you got me worried lol. I havent even ordered my wheels for my mad yet lol. These fit my current hot rod.

55 Rescue Dog
11-23-2016, 04:45 PM
Come on BamaNomad, no matter where they're made there has to be some specs and their tolerances can't be that wide :eek:. I would call ARE and see if they are standard or not.
Center caps for wheels are like Tupperware lids. No two are alike.

BamaNomad
11-23-2016, 07:08 PM
Come on BamaNomad, no matter where they're made there has to be some specs and their tolerances can't be that wide :eek:. I would call ARE and see if they are standard or not.

I'm sure each batch they make in China are made to a 'spec'.. The issue is how much the spec varies from one batch to another.. :) I've only had one product made in Taiwan/China, and we had many issues; they would change drill sizes, screw types, etc.. seemingly at will... very similar to dealing with a 'new manufacturing' operation here in the US; they 'have a new idea'.. and implement it.. and don't think that their customers *just might* be reliant on these things remaining constant within a part number... :) .. customers of these type operations are basically guinea pigs for paying for that 'new company's' prototyping efforts.. :)

PS. One might think that ARE would control the specs for their wheels, even if made in the far east. I had an accident last year which destroyed one of the 15x7 ARE Torq Thrust (VN105) wheels, so I ordered ONE from Summit to replace it. The set was almost new at the time. When the ONE came in from Summit, the screws that held on the center cap for that one were different than the screws on the one I was replacing. SO that all four of my wheels would be the same, I ended up 'retapping' the holes in the new wheel and using the old wheel screws... (even the allen wrench size was different)... I DID call Summit who referred me to ARE service center in Illinois? or Ohio? before I 'fixed' the wheel myself...