Chassis reinforment welding help crossmember.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

I'm R&Ring the chassis in the area of the front suspension. The original frame appears to be solid. But I plan to push this car harder than stock. Do you guys weld the joints of the cross frame or just rely on the rivets. Any experience would be welcome. Ill be cross bracing the frame and adding a shock bar also. Only info I have found relating to the front area states that the lower front a arm holes are known to tear out just from adding front disc brakes so they added gussets in that area as a precaution. With my intended use that's a scarey thought.
thanks
Rocky
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg.html)

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Well guess its not a meth. My front inside hole already is distorted and cracked. Looks like I,ll be added structure there. I'm not to worried lol. The factory welds are so ugly mine will look factory when I'm done LOL

[Rick_L]

The usual spot for failure on a stock frame is the front crossmember where the lower control arms fasten. I'm not of the opinion that disc brakes are any kind of factor. Rather it's collision damage or sometimes rust from the inside. Usually what you see is that the bolt holes crack out to the front edge of the crossmember. Sometimes there are cracks from the bolt hole up into the vertical wall of the crossember. The crossmember is spot welded together. Welding the two halves on the edge will help. Adding another reinforcing piece on the top side will also help.

I think those rivets do a pretty good job. You might look for flaws almost anywhere. The longitudinal welds on the 2 piece frames are usually very ugly but that's all - they look bad but have adequate strength - simply because not much strength is required there.

The biggest thing about a stock frame is not the strength but the lack of torsional stiffness. I think the AME style X member probably does the best job of increasing the torsional stiffness. The double round tube bent X members are going to flex at the bend and defeat most of the intent.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Thank you Rick!!! My frame has the fwd inside hole cracked in front both slices. The hole was not torn out put the flange was wavey. I hammered dolley it flat and already got a dobular in works to strengthen the front edge. I've been underneath exploring this morning and exactly like you stated it looks like one could just skip weld here and there as needed so to speak and improve or help what is there. Thanks again I will post pics latter.
Rocky

the damage
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-40.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-40.jpg.html)

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-40.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-40.jpg.html)

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

The repair using some straps I had handy should do the trick.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk243/rockytoppers1/image-41.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/rockytoppers1/media/image-41.jpg.html)

[NickP]

Will they be welded in place?

[Rick_L]

I haven't seen it done quite that way, but it should work. You need a nicely done tig welding job to make it right.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

I have a decent mig should be ok for this. Much cleaner than my stick work lol.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

I haven't seen it done quite that way, but it should work. You need a nicely done tig welding job to make it right.

Rick, I changed the 2 strips to one piece using them as a pattern. That allowed me to match drill the holes to exact size which is much better to carry the shear loads that I'm trying to improve on. You mentioned above tying the two halves of the cross member together. I spot welded the edges as a test which works ok but is going to be a lot of work cleaning up the welds to flush and straighten out the edge again. I was thinking it would be stronger and easier to cleanup drilling a hole thru the bottom half and just spot weld them together along the flanges every couple of inches or so on the bottom. Is that how most folks would do that?
Thanks
Rocky

[Rick_L]

Making the reinforcement one piece is a good idea. Remember that any time you fill a gap with weld metal, there will be residual stress, and that stress is tension.

The extra plug welds should work too. You shouldn't need them except where the fasteners are.