PDA

View Full Version : rocker arm stud replacement 283 57 wagon



57barnwagon
08-02-2015, 07:17 PM
can I get a little feed back from someone that knows how to remove a broken rocker arm stud from my 57 283 head without removing the head if possible.
I was driving the 57 the other day when it began running a bit rough and had a rhythmic tapping sound. When removing the valve cover on the side I suspected I confirmed a broken valve lifter stud broken just above the lower portion of the threads. it is an exhaust rocker stud. I'm ill informed on the chevys as I have been primarily a ford guy for years but love my wagon.

NickP
08-02-2015, 07:45 PM
How much of the old studs shank is available?

57barnwagon
08-02-2015, 09:40 PM
the stud broke off at the base of the threads.
is it a press in stud?

57barnwagon
08-02-2015, 09:42 PM
I assume if it is I can tread the remainder and use a nut and spacer to draw the stud out of the head.
is there a tool for install of a press in stud?

NickP
08-03-2015, 06:45 AM
It is a press in as long as no mods have been done however if a threaded unit it will have a nut configured into the base and I suspect it doesn't. Be careful during the threading, the studs will typically be harder than a standard bolt. Use a quality die. Also, check the push rod for straightness. Not to alarm you but there is a cause that should be determined in an effort to not have other studs break. As to install of replacement, be cautious and drive the replacement in as straight as possible. I have seen the area break or crack from missguided blows from a shop hammer. Inspect the base that holds the stud for cracks prior to install.Several vendors sell a tool but it requires the complete stud to operate - http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/SUM-900136_xl.jpg

57barnwagon
08-03-2015, 07:24 AM
yes
It look like one would need to slde the tool over the neighbor stud to use as an alignment tool.
it does not extract however.
how do you suggest pulling the remainder of the stud?

Rick_L
08-03-2015, 08:45 AM
Not common, but there are screw in studs that don't have a hex nut built on as part of the stud. This would indicate a prior repair and likely is not what you have.

If there is enough length of the broken stud left, a machine shop would use a slide hammer tool with a collet. Usually there isn't enough because the stud breaks very close to the top of the boss. In that case, the stud would have to be drilled out. You would need a drilling guide that's similar to the tapping guide already discussed.

Unless you machine away part of the boss, your replacement stud will need to be a plain one without a nut as already described. Otherwise the nut is going to interfere with the rocker arm and pivot ball.

NickP
08-03-2015, 09:48 AM
The standard kits (pictured) do not generally have the collet style attachment. Check with your local parts store and see if they have a rental/borrow. I will be an external type collet rather than the more common internal collet.http://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/large/23KX49_AS01.JPGThe type you need is for pulling dowel pins. Pictured is Snap On: http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemDetailImages/CG500.jpg

5Clint7
08-04-2015, 05:54 AM
The standard kits (pictured) do not generally have the collet style attachment. Check with your local parts store and see if they have a rental/borrow. I will be an external type collet rather than the more common internal collet.http://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/large/23KX49_AS01.JPGThe type you need is for pulling dowel pins. Pictured is Snap On: http://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemDetailImages/CG500.jpg
Good info Nick. I didn't know they made those collets.