PDA

View Full Version : best media for blasting cabinet



WagonCrazy
01-29-2016, 08:34 PM
I have a blasting cabinet that (when I bought it used) was empty, so I went to HF and got a couple gallons of glass bead media. After using that for about a year on and off, I must say that it doesnt really have the cutting power I thought it would. I'm just making all kinds of dust, but it isn't cutting paint off metal surfaces very well...

Should I move to walnut media? What cuts paint off the best? Don't want to use silica sand if I can help it. Too course and the cabinet does leak out a little bit, so that chit is in the air being inhaled...

Rick_L
01-30-2016, 05:19 AM
If you want something more aggressive, try aluminum oxide or something similar, like "black beauty" which I think is coal slag.

I think walnut will be worse not better.

Or you may want to see if you can get coarser glass beads.

Keep in mind too that if you've used the cabinet much, you now have a mixture of glass beads along with old paint and dirt - which has lost its effectiveness. Just replacing it will help some plus you won't have as much dust for a while.

MP&C
01-30-2016, 05:44 AM
I use a Garnet abrasive.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/photobucket-9746-1378770229276.jpg

chevynut
01-30-2016, 07:55 AM
I use glass beads because it leaves a smoother surface than aluminum oxide or sand if that matters to you. Sometimes I blast parts that I don't want rough. Also, aluminum oxide wears your nozzles (ceramic or carbide) aLOT faster than glass beads, and screws up the window on the cabinet. I'm curious why you're not getting the cleaning action you expected. Mine cuts through just about anything and doesn't seem to break down too fast. What pressure are you using? What size is your nozzle?

I did find that the HF glass "beads" are really just ground glass now so they leave a rougher surface too. I used them and they turned to powder and made a mess...I had to blow my parts off after blasting. I'm now using glass beads from Tractor Supply...cheaper too.

I've thought about having two cabinets, one for aluminum oxide and one for glass beads, depending on what I'm blasting. But the glass beads do a pretty good job for me.

NickP
01-30-2016, 08:47 AM
I have a blasting cabinet that (when I bought it used) was empty, so I went to HF and got a couple gallons of glass bead media. After using that for about a year on and off, I must say that it doesnt really have the cutting power I thought it would. I'm just making all kinds of dust, but it isn't cutting paint off metal surfaces very well...

Should I move to walnut media? What cuts paint off the best? Don't want to use silica sand if I can help it. Too course and the cabinet does leak out a little bit, so that chit is in the air being inhaled...

As with most types of blasting media, glass beads can be purchased in varying grit size. Additionally, manufacturers of media product may or maynot always produce all of the grit size (AKA Screen Size): http://www.mediablast.com/sandblasting-glass-bead-conversion-chart

chevynut
01-30-2016, 09:26 AM
This is what I've been using since Harbor Freight changed their glass beads to junk. It's 80 grit...50 pounds for $32.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-bull-no-80-grit-abrasive-glass-beads-50-lb-drum

WagonCrazy
01-30-2016, 09:07 PM
I did find that the HF glass "beads" are really just ground glass now so they leave a rougher surface too. I used them and they turned to powder and made a mess...I had to blow my parts off after blasting.

That’s the crap I’ve been using too. Dusty, messy, and it’s not cutting very fast.

Here’s what I have my cabinet full of...

5516

And here’s the result on some powder coated metal I needed to spot blast for some welding coming up...

5517

it does produce a fairly smooth metal finish, but the spots you see removed took about 5 minutes to do. That seems way to long...

I’m running about 60 pounds of pressure to the gun, with the nozzle diameter being about 1/4 inch. I have a 60 gallon compressor backing it up and it never runs low on air when blasting. Keeps right up with it.

Guess I better clean this cabinet out and try something else. Maybe the oxide like some of you guys use.

chevynut
01-30-2016, 09:55 PM
Paul, powder coating is VERY hard to remove with blasting, even with a larger outdoors blaster. I had a frame that a customer exchanged that was powdercoated and it was a PITA to get it to bare metal. I wouldn't judge the effectiveness of your blast cabinet on how it removes powdercoating. Try some rusted or painted metal in it. I really don't think you'll find any media that will easily remove powdercoat.

I do recommend that you quit using the HF "glass beads". You can find all sorts of complaints about it on the internet. It used to be good stuff, but they changed and it's garbage now. I emptied my blast cabinet and changed over to the Tractor Supply glass bead media and it works a lot better.

WagonCrazy
01-31-2016, 09:05 AM
Agreed Laszlo. I'm trying to figure out when I will be near a Tractor Supply store, so I can order it and pick it up sometime. With a 50# can, it would be cost prohibitive to ship it.
There are no stores closer than 60 miles to me, so I have to plan this for when I'm going to be out in one of those directions.
Ain't no farmin' goin' on anywhere near LA! So there ain't no store near here...

MP&C
01-31-2016, 10:34 AM
Paul, check for a local United Rentals. They carry Black Beauty to go with their sand blast rigs. Be sure it's the Fine or extra fine though, as they also carry medium grit for structural blasting which is much too coarse for your sheet metal..

chevynut
01-31-2016, 01:28 PM
I tried Black Beauty once...and only once. I've never used it in a blast cabinet, but when I used it outside in my pressure blaster it pulverized into dust when it hit the metal so you couldn't recycle it. I suspect it would do the same in a blast cabinet since it's about the same thing.

For outdoor blasting I use silica sand and I wear a respirator, gloves, ear protection, a face mask, and a hood. I get the silica sand at Lowes. I can recycle it numerous times.

Custer55
01-31-2016, 07:37 PM
Fyi, I looked online for garnet after Roberts post. Both Tractor Supply and Home Depot sell the garnet and glass beads. Home Depot sells online only, not stocked in stores, but I think you could buy online and pick up in store. Tractor supply has in stock in some stores and recommends to call ahead.
Brian

Custer55
01-31-2016, 07:42 PM
Fyi, I looked online for garnet after Roberts post. Both Tractor Supply and Home Depot sell the garnet and glass beads. Home Depot sells online only, not stocked in stores, but I think you could buy online and pick up in store. Tractor supply has in stock in some stores and recommends to call ahead.
Brian

The brand at both Home Depot and Tractor supply is "Black Bull"

WagonCrazy
01-31-2016, 08:50 PM
I can get the Black Bull from my local Home Depot. They have 2 types: 80 grit Garnet Sand and 80 grit abrasive Glass Bead. if both are 80 grit, should I assume the Sand is still too abrasive for cleaning sheet metal or aluminum parts?

Rick_L
02-02-2016, 07:04 PM
Thanks for the heads up on HF's glass beads not really being "glass beads". I might have been tempted to buy them thinking they were the real thing, just because of convenience and price. Tractor Supply is convenient enough if it's the real thing.

chevynut
02-02-2016, 07:31 PM
I used to use HF glass beads and they were good...then they apparently changed suppliers and it's junk now. That's why I went to Tractor Supply and it seems to be better so far.

Mountain Man
02-09-2016, 07:34 PM
Sounds like most of you understand your setup pretty well but I'll throw out a couple of things I experienced while useing a blasting cabinet that some might find helpful. When the tip wore,cutting action deminished dramaticly,a new tip made a big difference. Being the tightwad I am,I cut off pieces of rubber hose to use as tips rather than spend money on proper tips. I found hose that had desired id and would fit snug in gun,bought a few feet from parts store and all was well. You will be amazed how long rubber lasts.

Rick_L
02-09-2016, 07:58 PM
That may work for the most non-aggressive media, but moderate or aggressive media will eat up even the good tips pretty quickly.

It's all relative.

Danny57
03-03-2016, 11:01 AM
I have some glass beads & aluminum oxide from Granger which is better than HF. Switched to the Aluminum Oxide a few months back to prep my new headers for ceramic coating. Coating or painting needs a "tooth" to hold on to. Real glass beads dimple, great for rust removal & general clean-up, but I prefer AO for painting & coating. It does generate a lot of dust though, I have to open the cabinet & run a brush or squeegee across my glass inside to clear it up every so often.

I powder coat & have had to re-do some of my screw ups. I find the best way is to just take my oxy-acetylene torch with a rosebud tip & burn the coating to an ash. Then you can blast the residue off pretty easy. I don't recommend this method on aluminum, just steel.
Danny

MP&C
03-03-2016, 11:16 AM
As far as the tips wearing away, don't be a tight ass, go ahead and buy the carbide nozzle from TP tools. I did about 8 years ago and haven't touched it since.

chevynut
03-03-2016, 11:42 AM
As far as the tips wearing away, don't be a tight ass, go ahead and buy the carbide nozzle from TP tools. I did about 8 years ago and haven't touched it since.

I tried those carbide nozzles from TP tools with the aluminum oxide media and they wore out like nothing. The ceramic tips with glass media work best for me. Everyone has their preferences and what matters to them.

Rick_L
03-03-2016, 07:46 PM
Seems like carbide nozzles should hold up. Did you try a different supplier?

I don't use aluminum oxide in my cabinet. Like you I use glass beads, and ceramic nozzles have a decent life.