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View Full Version : How much paint will I need for a 55 Chevy Sedan?



DocHarley
08-21-2016, 02:37 PM
3 coats red base (or should I do 4?) Including under the hood and trunk, all jams, dash and inside trim pieces.

I was told one gallon is enough?

Doing BC/CC

Custer55
08-21-2016, 02:50 PM
I used 1 gallon of each (red and white) on my 55 and then needed another 1/2 gallon of white to do the trunk. I painted mine back in 1988 with acrylic lacquer though. 8 coats of each on the outside of the body and 4 to 5 coats on jams and under the hood. You wouldn't need as much with base coat clear coat but I would get at least a gallon and a half if it were mine. Better to have paint left over if you need to repaint anything down the road.
Brian

chevynut
08-21-2016, 03:10 PM
That's a tough question and it depends a lot on the paint, color, coverage, etc. We used 1/2 gallon of orange base on JUST my frame and radiator support so far. I bought two gallons but I'm not sure it's going to be enough for the underside of the body and all the front sheetmetal along with the rest of the car. Plus the entire backside of the car is going to be off-white. I may paint all those loose pieces first and see how much I have left, then order what more I need and mix it all together to shoot the outside of the body, doors, tailgate, fenders and hood last. Need to discuss it with my painter.

One gallon for a whole car seems like not nearly enough but I could be way off on my thinking.

Rick_L
08-21-2016, 04:23 PM
I agree, you'll probably need 1-1/2 to 2 gallons of both base and clear. Red will take more than 3 coats IMO. Part of this depends on what paint brand/line you use. Premium brands/lines cover better. How much clear depends on how much you sand/buff off.

LEE T
08-22-2016, 03:32 AM
Red will be very expensive, but you want to make sure you get enough. To make sure you have the same shade you need to mix it all together in a bucket, then pour it back in its containers. I noticed that you used SPI primers, but they also have three different base coat reds for $307 per gallon--bright red, medium red, and dark red. For restorations they recommend their Universal Clear for $113 per gal. There is a forum for questions about their paint products and application.

After all the hard work you have done, don't skimp on paint quality.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!current-ad/c1ex

MP&C
08-22-2016, 04:01 AM
Red is a semi-translucent color, so make sure your sealer is all one color before spraying any red. No exceptions. The only thing I have to compare to was the 65 Fairlane we painted in Viper red, although this is comparible in size. It took about 5 gallons of mixed base to do both inside and outside of doors, trunk lid, and fenders. Hood was sprayed black on inside, red on outside, and red on body and door jambs. We sprayed 3 coats of base, 3 of clear, and may have had 1/2 pint left over. At the time this paint ran about 200 per gallon. Dupont Chromabase would have been about 600 per gallon, but perhaps would have covered in two coats. I felt more comfortable with coverage using 3.

Build thread here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86935

chevynut
08-22-2016, 07:52 AM
At the time this paint ran about 200 per gallon. Dupont Chromabase would have been about 600 per gallon, but perhaps would have covered in two coats. I felt more comfortable with coverage using 3.

Once I picked my color I checked with my local PPG Paint Supply and the DBC base was $1168 a gallon. :eek: I ended up finding a PPG supplier in NY that sold it to me for less than half of that (under $500 a gallon). Not sure how he does it, but he said he buys trainloads of base at a time so he has lots of volume. I bought 2 gallons of base and 2 gallons of clear plus hardeners and reducers from him and saved $1700 over the local price. If you want his contact info, PM me.

DocHarley
08-23-2016, 04:49 PM
I found PPG Viper red on ebay. Is this junk since it's only $200 bucks a gallon?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PPG-Deltron-2000-DBC73840-Viper-Red-Chrysler-Code-PRN-RN-AU106LRN-LRN-/381549285394?hash=item58d61c1012:m:mrrcvcRJXuQXmsw PqhqVEMA&item=381549285394&vxp=mtr

Rick_L
08-23-2016, 05:27 PM
Well it's closer to $300. If it's what's it's claimed to be (PPG DBC with the Viper color mix, mixed when you order it) that's a good deal.

DocHarley
08-23-2016, 05:32 PM
I was also looking at the DBU which is $200 and got confused. What's the difference between DBU and DBC?

Rick_L
08-23-2016, 06:02 PM
DBC is the top of the PPG Deltron line. It's generally considered to be a better color match and should cover better than DBU. You also have to mix it differently (reducer, etc.) than DBC. Go to ppgrefinish.com and get the p-sheets for each to see the difference. You may want to consider a catalyst in DBC but it's not required. I think DBU requires catalyst, not sure.

DocHarley
08-23-2016, 06:54 PM
Great info, Thanks!

How about sealer? Is that task imperative before basecoat? Some people say yes and some say no.

My car is finished using SPI epoxy top coat which I sanded using 400 dry then 600 wet, smooth as a baby's behind. I'd really prefer to eliminate sealer if it's safe to do so. If I do seal I'd use SPI epoxy reduced and the specs say's it must sit 6 hours after spraying before applying the base which would take away most of the day and not enough time left to paint, or.... they say, let it sit overnight then wet sand using 600 before base (not more sanding please!!!!!!) and by the time I sanded most of the day would be gone. WTF!!! I'm getting too old for all this craziness. :) So tell me sealer is not necessary. PLEASE!!!!!! lol

Rick_L
08-23-2016, 07:04 PM
Epoxy is a great sealer. One purpose of a sealer coat is to have a uniform color of primer/sealer so that the base coat hides uniformly. Another thing is that the sealer/primer coat that you spray base on to should somewhat match the base. Or it should be light gray/white. What color is your SPI epoxy?

DocHarley
08-23-2016, 07:10 PM
I "was" using gray but later found out I need to use white because I'm spraying red base so after all body work was done I applied two coats white epoxy then sanded 400-600. So Why would I need to apply a sealer when their specs say sand if it sets over 6 hours which it would cause there's no way I could seal wait 6 hours then paint all in the same day, I'm only good for 6 hours of work then I fall asleep.

Rick_L
08-23-2016, 07:13 PM
You should be good if your white epoxy has been sanded within a few days prior. Sounds like you were already headed in the same direction that I posted on the primer/sealer color. If it's been more than a few days just scuff it with some relatively fine Scotchbrite.

DocHarley
08-23-2016, 07:20 PM
You say if it's been more then a few days, what about weeks? The last coat was applied a week ago and I'm not sure when I will have time to paint, could be another few weeks. So if I wait that long just do a scuff using red scothbrite pads right before I paint no matter how long I wait?

chevynut
08-23-2016, 08:04 PM
I found PPG Viper red on ebay. Is this junk since it's only $200 bucks a gallon?

That's the guy I bought mine from...it's the real deal. You can't beat his prices...his name is Bill. Don't hesitate to deal with him.;)

Rick_L
08-23-2016, 09:06 PM
Doc, what I would suggest is that you scuff the sanded epoxy with something fine (red Scotchbrite may be too coarse) a day or two prior to painting, if not the same day. I was thinking gray Scotchbrite - but be careful there's gray that's coarse too. The scuffing won't be a big job relatively speaking.

You're on the right track here, go for it.

MP&C
08-24-2016, 02:39 AM
Red is too coarse as Rick said. Use a grey scotchbrite if needed. If your present "sealed" coat of white has no grey break-throughs it should be fine as is. If you do see grey through the white in any areas it WILL show through in the final coat.

LEE T
08-24-2016, 03:55 AM
Red scotch bright is comparable to 320-400 sand paper, gray 3m #7448 is comparable to 600-800 sand paper, but use a block with it also. SPI recommends a sealer coat of epoxy for chip resistance, after scuffing, and before base coat. This is a quote from their---Perfect Paint Job--- write up,

"When all of the primer blocking and any necessary primer repairs are finished it’s always best to use the epoxy as a sealer. Mix up enough epoxy to go around the car with one wet coat and adding a double shot glass of SPI #885 Urethane Reducer per quart. Let the epoxy set for 30 minutes. Stir one more time and strain. Spray one full wet coat of epoxy over the entire car. The epoxy should set for 2 hours before spraying basecoat or the next option is let it set over night and wet sand the epoxy with 400-800 then spray the base."
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!perfect-paint-job/c1go8

chevynut
08-24-2016, 07:28 AM
My painter and I discussed using white sealer and decided not to do it. He lets his sealer cure, then wet sands it prior to paint to level it perfectly. He says if you don't do that you'll see it in the final basecoat (he's really picky). We decided to spray a white base before spraying the orange instead. It's thin, doesn't orange peel, and makes everything the same color.....and it's pretty cheap.

DocHarley
08-24-2016, 03:26 PM
Chevynut, That's what I was thinking. Why do all the work I did to achieve a smooth surface only to spray a sealer just before paint which will have orange peel (I know this to be true because I sprayed a test panel with SPI epoxy as a sealer reduced 10% and no matter how I sprayed there was some orange peel). I'm going to wet sand with 600 grit just before painting. Thanks to all the help!

MP&C
08-25-2016, 06:43 AM
The downside to NOT wet sanding your sealer is that any dust nibs not found at that stage will leave a tiny white dot in the bright red paint once you cut and buff. So yes, another session of wetsanding is recommended after spraying your white sealer, as we did on the Fairlane.. If you do have any sand throughs, mix a small amount of sealer and spray over those areas alone, let flash per tech sheet, before following up with base.

chevynut
08-25-2016, 07:45 AM
I've been using all PPG products on my Nomad and their DPLF sands like crap, so I really had a hard time considering using it as a sealer. I always thought sealer was for paint adhesion, but I was told it's more for getting a uniform color before shooting the base.

My plan is to get the car to the painter pretty much ready to shoot, do a little more final touch-up sanding if needed, then shoot it. I didn't want to shoot the sealer, wait several days for it to cure enough to sand, another day or two to sand it, and then shoot the base. Shooting an opaque white base made more sense to me than shooting white sealer. And it can all be done without rolling the car in and out of the booth. Any downside to that?

LEE T
08-25-2016, 09:20 AM
DPLF is a non sanding epoxy! Its not made for sanding, epoxies are made in different ways. Its also not chemical resistant.

DocHarley
09-23-2016, 05:09 PM
Question #2099 lol

7.5 cfm @ 40 psi enough compressor? I will not be painting the whole car at once. Biggest piece will be the quarters and door jams. Then at a latter date I will do the doors and trunk lid.... then Hood and finders...., dash and firewall... then all the smalls.

Question #2100

Will be buying a Iwata LPH400LH should I get the 1.3 or 1.4 tip for base and clear coat?

Thanks!

Rick_L
09-23-2016, 05:57 PM
Doc your compressor is too small for most paint guns. Most are going to need 10-12 cfm @50 psi. I don't know the specifics on the Iwata and didn't look them up, but it's in that range.

You might look for a quality gun that is more miserly on the air consumption - or a bigger compressor. I don't have a recommendation on a miserly gun. I use a Sharpe Platinum which is no longer made that would fit the requirement. I bought it when I had a compressor similar to yours but a little bigger - have now upgraded. One good thing about a gun with limited air consumption is that it puts out less paint in a given time, which can be a good thing for a novice or occasional painter. Lets you go slow and deliberate, which is OK because you want a good job and you're not doing it for a living.

Regardless of the rest of the factors, you probably want a 1.3 tip - better atomization of the paint, which means a smoother finish all else equal.

DocHarley
09-30-2016, 05:47 AM
Thanks Rick!

Bought a new compressor which should do the job... Quincy 5-HP 60-Gallon Two-Stage QT Pro Air Compressor (230V 1-Phase) CFM
15.4
CFM Rated @
90 PSI

My son was happy because he gets my old compressor. :)

Gun arrived yesterday Iwata 5642 LPH400 LV Gravity Fed Spray Gun, 1.3mm w/ 700ml Alum Cup

Can't wait for the day I'm done spending money on this money pit because I'm running out. :(

markm
09-30-2016, 06:19 AM
Painting is expensive I cannot believe how much I have spent getting an 87 GMC 4x3 ready to paint and its a driver

DocHarley
09-30-2016, 11:41 AM
So true, but a lot less then the 10K everybody wanted to just spray my car, no body work.

DocHarley
09-30-2016, 11:46 AM
Paint arrived!!!! So exciting!!!! lol

I bought 3 gallons ($750 total for PPG Deltron DBC 2000 great price compared to everybody else, one dude wanted $1100 per gallon :eek:) because I know with my luck 2 would not be enough. Also decided to paint engine same as car, and I'm going to paint a test hood, so my question is.... Should I dump all three gallons in a five gallon pail, stir then put back in original cans so the color will be 100%???. Thanks!

chevynut
09-30-2016, 12:29 PM
Doc, did you get it from Bill? I talked to him on the phone and he seems like a great guy to work with.

DocHarley
09-30-2016, 04:51 PM
Never talked to him, only email. Here is who I bought from.... http://stores.ebay.com/wbmesq-ppg-custom-mixed-car-paint?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Rick_L
09-30-2016, 05:14 PM
This is all pretty sketchy on the details. Ebay is not all that informative.

Please say more about Bill and how to contact him and get pricing, website, phone.

chevynut
10-01-2016, 08:02 AM
Here's his web store: http://www.shop.wbmesq.com/main.sc;jsessionid=078070B8904FBA2D90C6BBAE62F5C73 2.p3plqscsfapp004



Bill 315-386-8146





You're welcome ;)

Rick_L
10-01-2016, 08:43 AM
Thanks.

DocHarley
10-01-2016, 12:04 PM
K, now that I've saved you all bunches of money how about answering my question. :cry: Or do I need to ask over at Tri-Five forms??? :D

chevynut
10-01-2016, 01:33 PM
From what I know about painting you're supposed to mix all the paint together. I don't think it's that important if you're painting a frame, underhood parts or something like that separately, but for painting the whole body I think it would be advisable to mix it all together. On the other hand, if your last coat is all from one can, I'm not sure why it would make any difference. And you didn't save me any money...I found Bill long ago. ;)

DocHarley
10-01-2016, 02:33 PM
OK then, thanks for saving me money. :geek:

DocHarley
01-01-2017, 04:37 PM
I got Paint!!! Body next then cut and buff. Man this is a lot of work and no I would never do it again. lol

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0974.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0974.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0973.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0973.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0979.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0979.jpg.html)

WagonCrazy
01-01-2017, 04:52 PM
That coverage looks great Doc!
I'm curious about your paint spray booth setup. I see what looks like a plastic covered 2x2 frame with filters...
Did that work well? How did you ventilate during spraying?

I want to end up with a setup like this on a temporary basis for when I get to the point of wanting to do some painting. This looks like a reasonable cheap but effective setup?

Rick_L
01-01-2017, 05:48 PM
Do you sleep on top of the doors? Under them? On the floor? LOL

It all looks great.

chevynut
01-01-2017, 06:41 PM
That looks great Doc! Can't wait til I get some color on the body.

Custer55
01-01-2017, 07:30 PM
Paint looks great. Nice Job!!!

MP&C
01-01-2017, 09:14 PM
Nice!

WagonWonder
01-01-2017, 09:17 PM
WOW, that, is red! Sweet.

DocHarley
01-02-2017, 05:40 AM
That coverage looks great Doc!
I'm curious about your paint spray booth setup. I see what looks like a plastic covered 2x2 frame with filters...
Did that work well? How did you ventilate during spraying?

I want to end up with a setup like this on a temporary basis for when I get to the point of wanting to do some painting. This looks like a reasonable cheap but effective setup?


At first I installed three intake fans and installed 24x24 AC intake filters and one big exhaust fan (all bought from HD) problem with that set-up was there was so much suction it would cause the walls to suck in real bad so I added 5 more intake filters only and that worked perfect. Overspray is removed very quick and all most no problem with dirt in the paint.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0948.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0948.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0982.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0982.jpg.html)

567chevys
01-02-2017, 04:01 PM
I see no pictures?


Sid

DocHarley
01-04-2017, 04:20 PM
Not sure why pics went bye bye??? It's always something :( I think I fixed my pic problem.


It amazes me how the color changes when I take a picture in different lighting.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0979.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0979.jpg.html)

DocHarley
01-04-2017, 04:31 PM
Do you sleep on top of the doors? Under them? On the floor? LOL

It all looks great.

LOL Rick, that's our spare room, now I have an excuse when company wants to spend the weekend. HeHe!

WagonCrazy
01-04-2017, 05:33 PM
So you just vent it all outside? Any problems with fumes/smell/neighbors/etc? Do you put some kind of filter on the outside too?

Where I live, I can see them all lining up to file a complaint with city hall I start fumigating everyone...

567chevys
01-04-2017, 07:27 PM
Love the color , Looks like a very Nice paint Job ,

I really like the in the spare room .

Might try it ! I have a few that I would like not to come and stay at my house :o

LEE T
01-05-2017, 01:59 AM
So you just vent it all outside? Any problems with fumes/smell/neighbors/etc? Do you put some kind of filter on the outside too?

Where I live, I can see them all lining up to file a complaint with city hall I start fumigating everyone...

For the exhaust side the furnace filters won't work, they are not designed to trap overspray. Personally I don't want one neighbor to complain about the odor because I don't want to do anything dangerous to my neighbors, and don't want to be on the state radar and have to fully comply with the law from then on.

MP&C
01-05-2017, 04:15 AM
Love the color , Looks like a very Nice paint Job ,

I really like the in the spare room .

Might try it ! I have a few that I would like not to come and stay at my house :o

That was Joe trying to keep the in-laws away during the holidays..:D

DocHarley
01-05-2017, 05:14 PM
So you just vent it all outside? Any problems with fumes/smell/neighbors/etc? Do you put some kind of filter on the outside too?

Where I live, I can see them all lining up to file a complaint with city hall I start fumigating everyone...

I used cut to fit AC filter on the exhaust fan. http://www.homedepot.com/p/NaturalAire-24-in-x-36-in-x-1-in-Cut-To-Fit-Case-of-12-40655-012436/203143924

Worked great, cut down on the overspray going out side by 90%. One time I painted without a filter and the overspray going outside was horrible. Only problem with using a filter is it clogs fast, I had to install a new one after every 5-6 quarts of spraying paint or clear coat.

LEE T
01-06-2017, 06:03 AM
As far as paint fumes go, I guess it all depends on how close the neighbors and family are to the exhaust.
Here is double the amount of the that homedepot furnace filter for 20% less.
http://www.paintboothsupply.com/product_p/afc-pr405.htm

DocHarley
01-08-2017, 04:34 PM
First part I cut and buffed I burned through to the epoxy on a 3 inch section at one of the corners. :( What's the best way to fix it? Thanks!

chevynut
01-08-2017, 06:46 PM
First part I cut and buffed I burned through to the epoxy on a 3 inch section at one of the corners. :( What's the best way to fix it? Thanks!

What are you using to buff it? I think low-speed buffer is best.

Is your paint single stage? Since it doesn't look metallic, I wouldn't think it would be BC/CC.

Rick_L
01-08-2017, 07:37 PM
Did you not have enough paint on it, or did you make a mistake with the buffer?

Regardless, the way you fix it is to start fresh with primer as needed, base as needed, and clear as needed. Or single stage instead of base/clear. You'll need to blend each to what's there. Some googling should give you some help on blending technique.

DocHarley
02-25-2017, 05:33 AM
Cut and buff is a lot of work. So happy with how straight my panels look, was worth all the hard work.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1039.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1039.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1042.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1042.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1048.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1048.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1085.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1085.jpg.html)

BamaNomad
02-25-2017, 06:18 AM
Beautiful job, Doc!

(I'm also interested in the answer to CN's question re paint type - base/clear or single stage??)

WagonCrazy
02-25-2017, 07:06 AM
Wow! That just pops...

Rick_L
02-25-2017, 08:23 AM
Doc, your car turned out great! :)

chevynut
02-25-2017, 09:31 AM
Wow, that paint looks like a mirror on the quarters. Nice work!

DocHarley
02-25-2017, 08:25 PM
Thanks for the kind words. I'm really happy how it's turing out. I could not have done it without all your guys help. It's greatly appreciated!

BamaNomad
02-26-2017, 07:46 AM
Beautiful job, Doc!

(I'm also interested in the answer to CN's question re paint type - base/clear or single stage??)

I had to go back to the very first post of the thread to find out that Doc was intending to put base clear on the car, and at that time, it seemed he was using SPI for everything... if he didn't change his mind somewhere along the way....?

Reading the remainder of the thread again.. it seems Doc used SPI primers and epoxy in his prep, then switched to PPG Concept for this color...

Doc: Did you end up spraying a thinned epoxy sealer coat before spraying?? or not? I've always been wary of 'mixing' paint brands, but whatever you did seems to have worked. (I think PPG is the best brand to use btw, and concept is great!).. I need to contact Bill at that website to see if I can save a bit of $$ on my next paint purchase.

chevynut
02-26-2017, 11:37 AM
I need to contact Bill at that website to see if I can save a bit of $$ on my next paint purchase.

Bill can save you a ton of money. I recommend calling him instead of trying to contact him through the website. He's a super nice guy. My paint was quoted to me at $1168 a gallon (plus around $100 tax) at the local PPG store. I got it from Bill for under $500 a gallon...no tax and reasonable shipping cost. I also bought my clear and reducers from him, partly because the additional shipping was cheaper than our local tax.

567chevys
02-26-2017, 06:03 PM
Cut and buff is a lot of work. So happy with how straight my panels look, was worth all the hard work.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1039.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1039.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1042.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1042.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1048.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1048.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_1085.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_1085.jpg.html)


Wow,

All i Can say is that is one of the best looking 55 chevy's I have seen in many moons :)
The paint came out BEAUTIFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sid

DocHarley
03-01-2017, 04:16 PM
Thanks Sid! I really appreciate your very nice comments. Makes all my hard work worth wild. :)

DocHarley
03-01-2017, 04:50 PM
Beautiful job, Doc!

(I'm also interested in the answer to CN's question re paint type - base/clear or single stage??)

If your talking about "touch-up" when using BB/CC and touch-up is needed because burn through during cutt or buff on an edge/corner, a person could use single stage for touch-up, that way clear coat would not be needed because base coat has no shine. However, somebody correct me if I wrong, if a large area on a panel or flat area needed touch-up it might not match too good and same BC/CC that car was painted with should be used. (I should have been an English professor) :D

DocHarley
03-01-2017, 05:17 PM
Doc: Did you end up spraying a thinned epoxy sealer coat before spraying?? or not? I've always been wary of 'mixing' paint brands, but whatever you did seems to have worked. (I think PPG is the best brand to use btw, and concept is great!).. I need to contact Bill at that website to see if I can save a bit of $$ on my next paint purchase.

I ran out of epoxy so I called Barry at SPI to order more, he told me it's not necessary to use a sealer. He said to sand with 400 then paint which I was happy to hear because I saved $200 and it would add so much more work for me to use a sealer. As for using what I used, PPG Deltron 2000 DBC BC/CC over SPI epoxy and universal clear over the PPG paint, he guaranteed me there would be no issues. So far he's right.

Here's where I bought my paint.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/PPG-Deltron-2000-DBC73840-Viper-Red-Chrysler-Code-PRN-RN-AU106LRN-LRN-/381549285394?hash=item58d61c1012:m:mrrcvcRJXuQXmsw PqhqVEMA&item=381549285394&vxp=mtr

BamaNomad
03-01-2017, 08:37 PM
Obviously you didn't need a sealer coat, Doc.. but using a thinned epoxy primer as a seal coat is not a lot of work since you thin it down and it goes on smooothly - no need to sand. Just let it sit the prescribed time, then spray your color.

chevynut
03-02-2017, 06:37 AM
So when using a non-metallic paint, what's the advantage of using BC/CC over single stage urethane? It seems like it makes the job harder, since single stage would allow sanding of intermediate coats if you found defects, then just shoot another coat on. When polishing single stage you don't have to worry as much about cutting through the clear coat, because there isn't any. I think the shine is comparable too. Aren't most non-metallic cars single stage?

Bamanomad, my painter wet sands his sealer because it doesn't go on perfectly smooth no matter how hard you try. It's only an issue with metallic paints and he claims that he can tell the difference in the way the basecoat lays down. It does cause a lot more work but he paints $1 million plus vintage Maseratis and Ferraris.

BamaNomad
03-02-2017, 07:18 AM
I prefer single stage vs base coat / clear coat urethanes for two reasons:
1) Old cars (originally painted with lacquer or enamel - no clear) just seem (to me) to be 'plastic looking' when they have clear on them.
2) Single stage can be sanded/buffed similarly to lacquer (if you do it soon enough) so paint flaws (drips, orange peel) can be eliminated and the buffing brings out a shine very similar to a perfect lacquer paint job.

Yes, I remember and like how the old cars looked when they were new as compared to new cars today which all have clear coat on them.

CN: there's a lot of information online from various forums on the pros/cons of use (and how to) re sealers. There are a few reasons you will find as to why a sealer might not lay down 'flat', but all the reasons have a solution... The paint must be thin enough, and the paint gun nozzle must be small enough to totally atomize the sealer, in which case it will go down flat. Note: Sealer should not be applied 'thick'... just a coating. When i've used it it *covers* easily in one coat. It's total purpose is to seal off the lower primers/oldpaint/etc from the new color going on top. If you've started from metal and used a single mfg products all the way up, a sealer is probably not necessary (but shouldn't hurt!).. :)

PS. I consider myself fairly knowledgable for a 'sometimes/hobbyist' painter and I've painted a handful of my and my friend's cars over the past 20 yrs (not hundreds as a paint shop painter would do). But, I've been *involved* in paint/bodywork since my teens (50 + yrs), and I've always read/studied all I could find re painting. I DO follow the paint mfg's Technical Instructions for whatever paint I'm using each time, and I try to stay within a single manufacturer's products (Ditzler/PPG for me).

PPS. For the reasons above, I've never painted with basecoat/clearcoat system, but if I HAD to paint a metallic paint today, I would step into the BC/CC world and TRY... :) .. since all I've heard is that the metallics will *settle downward* when curing/drying, and 'sanding/buffing' will make the inconsistency of the metallics even worse (if a single state is used)...

chevynut
03-02-2017, 08:36 AM
Doc, getting back to the topic of this thread, you said you bought 3 gallons of base. How much of it did you end up using? How much clear?

DocHarley
03-06-2017, 04:51 PM
ChevyNut, I sprayed three coats base and used a full two gallons of paint mixed 50/50 so a total of 4 gallons. I did not spray inside the trunk or car except for about 4 inches around the edges on the insides. The reason I did not spray where I didn't was those areas are covered with 3 coats SPI epoxy and topped off with Dynamat and did not see any advantage to painting inside. And.... by not painting those areas, I have a gallon left over so I can paint my huge tool box Viper Red!!!! :p I suspect if I painted everything I would have needed another gallon of paint.

As for the clear I sprayed 3 "HEAVY" coats and used 2-1/2 gallons so a total of 5 gallons mixed. I now know I applied too much clear because I had to do a lot of sanding to make the clear flat so there are no waves/bumps or what ever there called. However, I'm glad I did because since this was my first cut and buff job I had room to learn the best technique and had room for error.

DocHarley
03-24-2017, 07:17 PM
I screwed up, please help!!! Spot about 1" long 1" wide on the front top corner of my hood, did not hit the paint but I can see where the clear is so thin it has craters. What's the best way to spot fix clear?

This was my last part to cutt and buff and this happens, so depressing :(

DocHarley
05-30-2018, 04:38 PM
Holly Cow!, my last post was over a year ago, how time fly's. Anyhow, I ended up re-clear coating my hood, looks perfect now.

On another note, sorry I've been slacken posting, here's a few up to date pictures. Hope to have it back from upholstery shop in a few weeks. Thanks again (Rick, Bob, Chevynut ETC.) could not have done it without the help you guys gave me.


http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0065.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0065.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0917.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0917.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0859.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0859.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0825.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0825.jpg.html)

DocHarley
05-30-2018, 04:52 PM
While I was waiting for the upholstery shop to take my car (which was 6 months :( ) I got board and made the center console and installed seats from a Lexus SC400. He had to fix a few things I screwed up but he did ask me If I needed a job. lol

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0568.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0568.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0563.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0563.jpg.html)

DocHarley
05-30-2018, 05:05 PM
Trunk is done!!!!!

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0882.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0882.jpg.html)

DocHarley
05-30-2018, 05:20 PM
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0907.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0907.jpg.html)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0814.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0814.jpg.html)

Rick_L
05-30-2018, 06:49 PM
Doc, it's been a while, may have missed some updates, but I think your car looks great!

chevynut
05-30-2018, 08:36 PM
Wow, your paint and interior look great! The quarter panel looks straight as can be. I really like the modern-looking console design. I just ordered more primer and paint from Bill today and hope I can get my car into paint in June. Can't wait to get where you are on mine!!

LEE T
05-31-2018, 03:00 AM
Not sure why pics went bye bye??? It's always something :( I think I fixed my pic problem.


It amazes me how the color changes when I take a picture in different lighting.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb214/DocHarley/IMG_0979.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/DocHarley/media/IMG_0979.jpg.html)

That is closely tucked in, I hope they didn't snuggle during the night. Fantastic job!

DocHarley
06-15-2018, 06:18 PM
Interior and car is DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 6 years (give or take) later. ;)

Here's a video of the inside..... https://www.instagram.com/p/BkDdFECl-Sc/?taken-by=interiorsbyshannon

567chevys
06-16-2018, 09:13 AM
All I can say is that is one bitching 55 chevy !!! You did a Fantastic job on it.

I would Be Afraid to drive it but really proud to have it be mine .

Good Job and thanks for sharing


Sid

DocHarley
06-16-2018, 04:18 PM
Thanks Sid!