Another Nomad project... :)

[BamaNomad]

Well, similar to dealing with most reproduction/aftermarket parts, I decided to just 'proceed' with the tack strip installation and try to make the best of the parts I received. Attached are a few photos of my initial efforts... Well, the order is opposite to what I wanted to display (and opposite to the order I selected the files)! ..

first/sedond photos: Shows the rear top panels that hold the tack strip and attach above the liftgate at the bottom of the roof in that area. These panels hold the tack strips that for tacking the rear portion of the headliner. The tackstrips were originally attached to the panels using staples (you can likely see the holes in the second photo).

Third photo: depicts the installed tack strips behind the door with the tabs folded down. I first sanded the backside of the plastic strips then used Weldwood contact cement on both surfaces before installing them.

Last two photos: Are an attempt to show the area behind the Nomad doors where the tack strip channel changes from a wide shallow area to a more narrow and deeper area on the lower end towards the floor. I ended up using two different thickness of tack strip and transitioned from the 1/8" thick to the 3/8" thick at that point.

[BamaNomad]

In trying to deal with installation of the tack strips to those rear upper panels, I found some staples that *might* work, even though these staples are intended to be used on the window channels. What do you fellas think? Should I try to use these staples - and hope they are long enough? or use some fine wire to 'make my own' staples? or just drill holes and pop-rivet the tack strips to the panels?? I'm leaning towards pop rivetting them in place...

[LEE T]

I would do some testing before you pop rivet. I'm afraid the rivet will damage the tack strip before it pops.

[BamaNomad]

After some consideration, and checking all the various staples I had available to me, I found that some 9/16" Craftsman staples I had (1/2" width) were perfect match for the staple holes in the panels, but of course 'stapling' them was impossible, so I choose a drill size slightly larger than the original holes and placed the tack strip in place on each panel, and drilled thru the original hole in the panel and thru the tack strip. I was then able to get the staple thru the tack strip to hit the holes in the panels. Once the staples were in the tack strip and I'd verified they would hit the holes, I then applied Weldwood contact cement and put them on the panels. While holding the panel/tack strip down tightly to a 2/4, I then bradded over the ends of the staples. I'm happy with how this turned out... see photos below...

So the tack strips are installed as closely as possible to how they did it in the factory (just not as quickly!).. :)

[Slim57]

Hi Bama. Not much worthwhile to add other than really like progress on you project.

For what it is worth thinking the staple idea is clean and effective. Better then pop rivet. Would think (minimal experience) that without washer to isolate activation of rivet might have distort tack strip material. But then would have added height at upholstery install...

Side note thanks for guidance...

[LEE T]

Looking good Gary.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Thanks for the pictures. I had no idea what a tack strip was, but after seeing them, and all the other crazy weird things they did to put these cars together, it sure makes me try and think of alternatives. After the tack strips, then what happens???

[BamaNomad]

I finished up the tack strips behind and above both doors, along with the LONG strip (58" long) on each side over the slider and corner curved pieces. All I lack re tack strips now is to the left and right of the tailgate, and above the windshield.

RD: The purpose of the tack strip is to provide something to 'staple to' along the edges of the headliner (all the way around, and to hold the windlace at the back side of the doors. If you don't plan to have a headliner in your car, nor windlace, then you won't require it.. :) Sedans are different than Nomads, due to body differences, but the purpose is the same.

[BamaNomad]

After church today, I was anxious to get to the garage and finish the tack strip install... took me about an hour to sand the backside of the remaining strips (80 grit), apply some weldwood contact cement to the sanded side, apply weldwood cement to the channel area where they would sit, and install the strips bending over the tabs to hold temporarily while the cement sits and cures. The only issue I had was the front strip over the windshield; it was wide but thin, and in a couple of areas, I had to trim down the width of it to ensure it would NOT interfere with the channel lipover when I install the windshield. i'm GLAD to be finished, as contorting my body, bending backwards etc to see/install these things were a pain. I suspect most people leave this job to their upholstery installer.

I like doing things myself (even the painful ones), and since I plan to do the interior myself... this needed to be done~

In summary, for others like myself who LIKE to do it themselves.. I have a couple of comments:

1) Mikey (on the other site) had suggested that it was a good idea to install the tack strips BEFORE any of the glass, and after completing this job I'm glad he suggested it as I also believe it's a good idea. Mostly because when closing those tabs to hold the tack strips, it is VERy close to the glass all around, and a slip of your tool or hammer (even though I used a rubber hammer, I did use a metal tool to push down the tabs) .. could result in a chipped/cracked glass!

2) Most people suggested one could use (or not use) any adhesive to install the tack strips, but after doing this job, I'd suggest that it is essential to hold the tack strips in place. The weldwood adhesive (contact cement) I used if applied correctly sets up quickly and HOLDS very good. In some locations, the adhesive may be superfluous (where there's lots of tabs to bend over to hold it, or where you might use staples as I did over the liftgate area, but .. the piece across the front of the roof at the windshield border only has tabs at the left and right with the great part of it's length ONLY having the adhesive to hold it (and mine is holding very well).. :) I had some on two paint sticks I was using to stir the adhesive and even with attempting to get the adhesive off, I left them sitting together... When I tried this morning to separate the two paint sticks... they split/cracked rather than give up the adhesive~ :) so I strongly recommend the weldwood contact cement!

3) as it turned out, I had sufficient tack strip for the job, in spite of the faulty labeling of the pieces which came with my 'Nomad kit'... For my next Nomad, I might just buy 'lengths' of the plastic strips in the two widths/thicknesses and do it myself over purchasing the socalled 'KITS'...

[BamaNomad]

I've been working a few things recently... Did a trial fit/install of my IDIDIT tilt column (that I bought over 2 years ago but only removed from the packaging a few days ago). I had to ship back the IDIDIT column (for adding an inch to the length) as the shift lever didn't really clear the firewall without scraping. Called IDIDIT and they said send it back and they'll add an inch to the column length (no charge) since I had a Corvette front steer rack. I'm waiting to get the lengthened column back now, but have ordered the necessary linkage rod and indicator bezels (received those already, just need the column back now). IDIDIT told me they sell their columns with a lifetime warranty ... :)

Other things I've worked on recently:

I repainted some of the small parts that had runs or thin areas from my last effort. This time I used a single stage urethane but added some 'clear urethane' to the last coats which is what I'm more experienced with. Turned out much better than my first attempt to use base/clear. I think I'll stay with what I know better.. http://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7

I modified the JerryC stainless retainer so it would fit the liftgate weather-strip channel, then fitted it, drilled 5 small holes for later retaining it, then primed and painted it to match the roof color. I will give this a few days to cure then seal/mount the retainer, and then I can install the liftgate weatherstrip (on the body) to prepare for mounting the liftgate. Among the small parts I repainted were the HINGES which had some thin/bare spots from my first painting effort with them.

I've also spent a lot of time the past few days (and actually over this entire rebuild effort) looking for the correct fasteners for several items. Last night I went thru fasteners for my first 57 Nomad to find the correct fasteners for the LIFT GATE HINGES (both to the body and to the liftgate itself. Apparently these didn't come with the disassembled body I bought and am working on now, so it took me some time to ascertain exactly what I needed. What I found out is:

Hinge to body: 6 fasteners / hinge (12 total).
Hex head bolts with captive ext teeth star washers. 1/4-28, L=5/8".

Hinge to liftgate: 4 fasteners per hinge (8 total).
large pan-head phillips screws with captive star washers (ext teeth).
1/4-20 thread. Head ~ 1/2" in diameter.

I found/ordered the necessary fasteners from McMaster Carr last night, except I had to order the star washers separate from the Hex head bolts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/mvB/Contents/gfx/ImageCache/926/92620a628p1-b01-digital@halfx_637026936225004447.png?ver=ImageNotF ound
Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw
Grade 8 Steel, 1/4"-28 Thread Size, 5/8" Long
92620A538 (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92620A538)

https://www.mcmaster.com/mvB/Contents/gfx/ImageCache/955/95584A207p1-b01-digitall@100p_636923087741332998.png?ver=ImageNotF ound
Zinc-Plated Steel External-Tooth Lock Washer
for 1/4" Screw Size, 0.256" ID, 0.51" OD
91114A029 (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/91114A029)

https://www.mcmaster.com/mvB/Contents/gfx/ImageCache/904/90402A538p1-b01-digitall@100p_636614722846489447.png?ver=ImageNotF ound

Steel Pan Head Screws
with External-Tooth Lock Washer, 1/4"-20 Thread, 5/8" Long
90402A538 (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/90402A538)


In checking those, I found where the disassembler had 'broken' one of the hinge/body fasteners in the roof mount, and rather than remove it then, left it and painted it all, so today I will attempt to drill thru it and use an easy out to remove it...
http://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7

[MP&C]

Nice job finding staples that work. I had heard that many restoration shops were bending up their own using Stainless TIG wire.

[LEE T]

How about a picture of that broken screw/bolt? I may have a more reliable and easy way to get it out.

[BamaNomad]

I didn't get a chance to work on that today Lee.. . so I will definitely take a photo and post it here.. The broken off partial is sticking up out of the nut plate a tiny amount.. not enough to 'grab' with anything I don't believe. My plan was to file/grind it flat so I could start a small drill bit in the center and then enlarge it enough for a decent easy out... If the nutplate could be easily removed, that would make it much easier... Do you know? ...I'm always open and looking to find a better way~ :)

It's hard for me to believe that anyone would BREAK off a bolt and leave it in thru the body prep/paint phase (I bought this car fully body painted, but totally diasssembled still and with none of the small removable parts painted.. (I think it's worse than doing it all yourself from the original...? :(

[LEE T]

If there isn't enough sticking out to weld a nut to, then weld a washer to it, then a nut to the washer. The heat will break it loose, and a mig shouldn't harm the paint much if any. A paint touch up wouldn't show under the hinge anyway.

[BamaNomad]

I tried welding a washer/nut to the partial bolt but wasn't enough sticking out to weld to (for me).. every time I'd try to weld it on, it would fall off.. so I gave up on that task for awhile and 'thought' about it. Today I decided to try another idea.. I used a worn out cutoff wheel (maybe an inch in dia) and manage to cut a shallow slot in the end of it, but before trying a screwdriver in it, I first heated the nutplate/broken bolt with my heat gun, then quickly used 'freeze it' on the bolt, followed by a shot of PB blaster. A couple of iterations of those steps and I was able to get a screwdriver in the slot I'd cut and gently work the broken bolt out! Finally! :)

I chased all the 12 threaded holes and bolted the hinges in place with the new hardware I'd acquired from McMaster Carr.
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Also today with my wifey's assistance, I removed the tailgate and marked/drilled holes for the weatherstrip and for the gate mounted hinge covers.
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and while the tailgate was off, I positioned and drilled the holes for retaining the body mounted tailgate hinger covers. Tomorrow I will install the TG weatherstrip and maybe try to hang the liftgate (if I can get my wife's assistance again).. :)
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Can anyone suggest a filler material for the indentations in the inner tailgate skin? I didn't receive the factory boards when I bought this car... (rubber? cardboard? or ??)

[BamaNomad]

Another task I completed recently but didn't report on was connecting the stock '57 wagon fuel filler tube and vent to my custom (Rock Valley) fuel tank. Rock valley give me a 3/8" vent tube rather than the 1/2" I'd asked for, so I had to make an adapter from the 1/2" vent to the 3/8" vent tube I used. I bent up a short piece of 2" exhaust tubing to make the connection from stock filler port to the tank, aided by two short 2" diameter fuel hoses. photo attached.

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[BamaNomad]

I don't know what the person who did the metal work on my Nomad (prior to my purchase) did, but NONE of the required holes in the inner tailgate skin were drilled. Today I laid out my tailgate linoleum and trim pieces and marked the screw locations for drilling, and drilled pilot holes for them. I began opening them up for the final screw size, but my bit died on me before completion!

11370

Yesterday we had a RAIN DAY and I lazed all day long. The three earlier days I spent replacing an old crappy fence on the other side of my neighbors home with a nice 6' shadow box with gate (and brick column). we'd relocated the old fence temporarily a couple of weeks ago and poured the foundation for the column, and waited for the brick mason to do his work. We also waited the past 14 days for my neighbors to 'quarantine' themselves due to an exposure they had to a daughter of theirs who tested positive for the virus. So I'm glad to finally finish this commitment I made to my neighbors re their fence.

11369

Speaking of Covid... I only found out this morning that one of my cousins, whom I spent a lot of time with in our youth and teen years, had been carried to Vanderbilt hospital in Nashville and put on a respirator with the COVID yesterday He was hemorhaging, which they got stopped, but his lungs were failing him even on a respirator. He passed this afternoon! May God be with him (Trent English - US Navy and Vietnam war veteran)... :(

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
I am sorry for the passing of your cousin, prayers for God's comfort to you and your family.
Good job on all your continued progress, both on the car and on your backyard! All looks first rate!
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Belair-o..

Do you fellas think there is too much difference between the 'red color' of the matador red linoleum and the Victory red paint ?? I'm planning to install the full red/black stock interior into this car... but it's not too late to change my mind if there is too much 'clashing' of reds...

I'm interested in your opinions... What say you?

[57fleetside]

First sorry for your loss. I don't thnk the reds clash. You are going to have some black in there too. It gives great definition to all the detail work on the car and if it were exact it may lose some of that. I like it. Steve


Thanks Belair-o..

Do you fellas think there is too much difference between the 'red color' of the matador red linoleum and the Victory red paint ?? I'm planning to install the full red/black stock interior into this car... but it's not too late to change my mind if there is too much 'clashing' of reds...

I'm interested in your opinions... What say you?

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
I don't think they clash either. The chrome trim helps to differentiate the areas, as does the difference in glossiness. I think the viewer's mind recognizes these are two different media, and doesn't require they exactly match.
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Well, before I bought this 'victory red' body, I asked both my wife and daughter what they thought about the 'differing colors' and they both thought they'd go OK together, but I wanted to get 'Car Guys' opinions also~ Thanks fellas... I suppose the proof will be in the pudding (if I ever get it all together)... hopefully people won't go "UGH" when they walk by it... :)

I had intended to paint my 'other '57' Matador Red, but when the opportunity to buy this one with the body already in color came along... I decided to save myself the pain of 'paint shop hell'... but didn't realize I traded one problem (going thru a paint shop) for another (having to paint a myriad of small parts - instrument cluster, glove box door, garnish mouldings, ad infinitum) and trying to match the color!

[BamaNomad]

Back to my Nomad project:
I'm still getting familiar with the SPI epoxy, and I wanted to spray single stage color today, so I called SPI... told them I sprayed their epoxy primer on cleaned new chrome yesterday afternoon (My liftgate drip rail) and asked what I needed to do to spray and how long to wait. The information I got from Brian was this:
1) recommend waiting 24 hrs before top coating, but depending on temp can be sooner.
2) Up to 7 days after epoxy can topcoat without sanding or scuffing. no additional primer required if the surface is good.

So I waited the 24 hrs and sprayed single stage urethane top coat (with some extra clear mixed into the final coats) this afternoon directly onto the epoxy without doing anything. It looks good so far! Along with the drip rail on my liftgate, I also sprayed the retainer strips for the forward windlace retainers (front of the doors), and the large screws for securing the tailgate hinges to the body.

I received my IDIDIT tilt column back from IDIDIT yesterday, so tomorrow I'll test fit it and verify the extra inch they added to the column addresses the issue I had, then remove it and repeat the epoxy/paint process on the column and a 15" repro steering wheel I bought a couple of years ago. I'm liking the SPI epoxy more each time I use it!

http://www.trifivechevys.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=192 0,fit=scale-down/https://www.trifive.com/attachments/liftgate-drip-rail-jpg.325311/
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http://www.trifivechevys.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=192 0,fit=scale-down/https://www.trifive.com/attachments/dr-side-jpg.325312/



http://www.trifivechevys.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=192 0,fit=scale-down/https://www.trifive.com/attachments/tg-hinge-to-body-bolts-jpg.325313/

[BamaNomad]

I realized a few days ago that CARS didn't send me the windlace for my '57 Nomad (red/black interior) when I ordered the rest of the interior (a handful of years ago). I recall specifically that CARS TOLD ME that the red/black interior for a '57 Nomad would have used BLACK carpet (that I received), but have no recollection about the windlace color. Also didn't get the rear fenderwell covers.. but they sent me a big roll of 'black vinyl'... I suppose they thought I'd sew my own windlace and fenderwell covers?? SHEESH...

Do any of you know what color the windlace should be for a factory red/black Nomad interior?? I suppose it should be black and match 'black' kickpanel covers? No kick panel covers either...

If any of you have or have had a '57 Nomad with red/black interior or recent work with one, I'd appreciate your recollection (rather than dig thru 40 yrs of National Nomad Convention photographs - prints of course!)...

[Tabasco]

I found this Nomad for sale on line. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1344203/1957-chevrolet-nomad-for-sale-in-seattle-washington-98119 It appears to have the original style interior. It shows the wind lace as being black and the rear fender well covers as red.

The last CARS interior I ordered the material for the seat shells was left out. I realized it months later and called them and they sent me the material I needed. Sounds like they need to check their orders better before sending them out.

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Tabasco! :) It's probably been too long since I ordered this interior kit to be telling them that they 'left stuff out'; maybe I just failed to order those items? ... but I will call them and discuss it, and order the missing items either way!

The '57 Nomad you referenced appears EXACTLY like the first Nomad that ever 'grabbed' my eyes, and led to my affinity for Nomads even today over 50 yrs later! That one was owned by an airman from Nebraska and I wanted it so badly! :)
The one in this ad shows that it was originally a six cylinder, but now has a V8 apparently. It also has the 3-spd on the column with an OD... Maybe I should have purchased this car and saved all the $$ I'm spending on making a restomod of it.. :)

[BamaNomad]

I called CARS Saturday morning, intending to order all the missing items, I went over the items I purchased from my invoice, and 'Joe' told me... 'you should have all that stuff as it's included with the side panel kit'... so he told me to open up the side panels, separate the two pieces (styrofoam in the middle), and all the parts I thought I was missing were between the panels! ... the kick panels, windlace, vinyl covered rear panels, wheel well covers, etc! .. so I saved ordering $450 of parts that I already have!

I did end up ordering $65 of parts, mostly fasteners, but among what I ordered was a tailgate hinge repair kit (new pins, and bushings. Has anyone here rebuilt their hinges before? I'm hoping this kit will 'fix' the sloppy hinge, but if the new bushings don't fix it, then I suppose I can take the hinge centers to a machine shop and have them 'drill and fit' an oversize bushing?

[BamaNomad]

Well, after failing to even *move* the pin in the hinge even with a 20T press, I need help! HOW is one to remove the old hinge pin for rebuilding the hinge??

[BamaNomad]

Doing some other things while the 'hinge pin' issue percolates in my head... :)
I'd love some suggestions or information from you guys. About all I can think to do it have the pins *machined* out so I can install the new bushings and pins...??

Todays' task was to begin installing parts on the liftgate, beginning with chasing threads on all the threaded holes... then installing the painted base piece with new stainless hardware, and the new (just received) Mooks anti-rattle plate, which is a very heavy piece (adding to an already heavy liftgate). The new part is a polished/mirror 14 gauge stainless part which replaces the three pieces as designed from the factory. It comes with the tailgate guide already installed - also in polished stainless steel and with pieces of extreme dynamat on the back sides of the larger areas, and with stainless #6-32 screws (12) for attachment.
https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_2492-jpg.325583/?hash=0ecffd50c64b0661b2ca8c31381009bb


It's heavier already, even though I haven't installed the glass in it as yet. I want to hang it on the car and see how it all fits before I remove it to install the glass. I also ordered the stainless gas supports but one of the brackets was missing from the package (waiting for Michael to send me a replacement), then I will hang the liftgate sans the glass to reduce the weight a bit .. to check the fit of the gate and w/s crush...


On another task tonight, I'd planned to remove and prep the IDIDIT tilt column and steering wheel for paint (tomorrow was the plan). A couple of days ago I trial fitted my returned IDIDIT column (added an inch to the length to get it thru the firewall), and I was going to remove it and take it to my other shop tomorrow to paint the column and steering wheel. I seem to have enough column poking out of the firewall to let the shifter work now, but In attempting to install the steering wheel to the column splines, I was unable to get it even to begin on the splines! is this a known problem with the 15" chinese replica wheels??? I bought this wheel at the 2019 TriFive Convention from 'Southern Rods' I believe. I'll call them tomorrow, but if any of you have had this issue (and know of a solution??).. please let me know... I'm wondering if this is a known problem and is going to require returning the wheel.... :(
Meanwhile, I suppose I could proceed with painting the column, but I really wanted to paint them at the same time...


Here is a photo of the end of the column as it pokes thru the firewall (with the inch added)...
https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_2493-jpg.325584/?hash=0ecffd50c64b0661b2ca8c31381009bb

Why didn't one of you guys tell me that doing a custom car with after market parts would be such a PITA hassle??? :)

[Rick_L]

Have you tried a stock wheel on the splines just to rule out a problem with the column? If not, I would do that next.

[BamaNomad]

Rick: No I haven't tried that (only tried the fit with the aftermarket wheel tonight and the IDIDIT is new). I have an NOS '57 wheel I can try tomorrow! Thanks for the suggestion!

[Tabasco]

The '57 Nomad you referenced appears EXACTLY like the first Nomad that ever 'grabbed' my eyes, and led to my affinity for Nomads even today over 50 yrs later! That one was owned by an airman from Nebraska and I wanted it so badly! :)

The Nomad that caught my eye was in 1966. I was sitting at the root beer stand having a frosty mug of root beer. A red/white 55 Nomad with mag wheels pulled in and I fell in love. I was driving my 55 hardtop at the time. I asked if he wanted to trade but he said no. My friends thought I was crazy for wanting to trade a 2 door hardtop for a station wagon.

Later that year I left for the Air Force and my 55 hardtop was sold. I didn't get another Trifive until 1977 and it was a 56 Nomad. In the early 80s I bought a second 56 Nomad. When I decided to sell my house and move to my place in the country I sold one Nomad to pay for my new shop. I later sold the other one so I could get out of debt before I retired.

I still have my 57 Townsman wagon and my wife's two 56 convertibles, but I sure miss having a Nomad. Maybe I'll get another one someday.

[BamaNomad]

Great story Tabasco! :) Maybe your wife will be willing to trade one of her convertibles for you another Nomad? :) (If you really want one... it will happen that you will get one).. :)

PS. you also made me want a frosty A&W root beer!! :)


Rick: I was going to try my NOS steering wheel on the column when I took it over to the other shop to paint it, but someone had suggested using a triangular file on the splines where the wheel first engages the column, so I did that before going to the shop and it worked... although I could only get the wheel engaged maybe Half of the splines? I kept trying to the point that I then couldn't get the wheel back off of the column! So I removed the column from the car complete with the wheel and took the assembly to my paint shop and at least got epoxy primer on it late this afternoon. Depending on the weather the next day or two (and whether we get lots of rain from Delta... hopefully I can make them RED soon. In the meantime I've got lots of other problems to work on the car.. :)

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[BamaNomad]

This afternoon I trucked over to the old shop and paint booth, mixed up my single stage urethane and some clear urethane to begin incubating, then quickly sanded the sw and column with some 600, then cleaned it with oil/wax remover and dried it, and then proceeded to making the column and small diameter '60 steering wheel RED... It looked pretty good to me when I finished, but I'll let it cure a day or two before mounting it back in the car again...

In attempting to get a little more 'room' between me and the steering wheel, i'm considering cutting off 1/4 to 1/2" of the instrument panel protrusion ala ACardon, but I need to confirm from he or someone that it does the job without causing other issues?

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http://www.trifivechevys.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=192 0,fit=scale-down/https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_2500-jpg.325702/


http://www.trifivechevys.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=192 0,fit=scale-down/https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_2499-jpg.325703/


http://www.trifivechevys.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=192 0,fit=scale-down/https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_2498-jpg.325704/

[57fleetside]

I never tried painting a steering wheel. It looks good! Steve

[BamaNomad]

It was a pain fleetside (My first one also). Very difficult to get to all the angles and nooks/crannies both top and bottom and all around. The inside of the hoop was particularly difficult as was attempting to get paint on all parts of the little 'trip nubs' on the bottom of the hoop.

I think an appropriate ''stand" would make it easier and with only the steering wheel on it... Later today or tomorrow, I'll go over and check it out and see how well (or poorly) I did.. :)

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
That looks real good! I thought my first effort on a steering wheel looked pretty good, and I got it all installed. A buddy was later looking at my car, and said, say, you know there is a run there on the steering wheel? Pulled the wheel, sanded it down, and painted it again mounted on a shaft that I could rotate as I painted. I think I documented my 2nd paint effort on this site.
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Belair-o,

I went over to that shop and removed the masking tape from the wheel/column yesterday, but I'm going to leave it there to totally cure since I may need to repaint my instrument cluster if I decide to cut off a bit from the 'snout' or protrusion ...

Your second approach (rotation method) seems like it would be the best way to do a steering wheel, BelairO... I will try to rig up something like that if I ever have to do another one.. :) but for this one, it's going on the way it is... runs, or dry, or whatever.. :)

[BamaNomad]

For the past week or so, I've been 'scattered', working on several different items on my Nomad.

- Steering Column/wheel: I let the paint cure for several days, then removed the tape and brought it back to my shop here at the house, but I don't want to install it until I've got the instrument cluster populated with gauges and back in the dash, so in the meantime I have to find a better place to 'store it' until I can install it finally~ :)11428
Obviously this isn't a great place... and it's only temporary until I can install the gates... :)

- Instrument Cluster: I cut off ~ 1/4" from the instrument cluster snout, hoping to get another 1/4" of 'room' between seat and wheel, and also get a little more clearance for the shifter lever to clear the custom firewall plate I made. 11429

I initially planned to have the two primary instruments adjacent to the speedometer to be 'Oil Pressure' and 'Water Temp', but for both of those instruments I chose 'mechanical gauges' (with hardline connections for fluids from the engine), and I'm thinking it might make wiring the car a bit easier if those were in the underdash instrument pod. It would mean that the most important gauges IMO (oil pressure and temp) would be farther away from my eyes, and fuel and Volts would be the electrically wired gauges in the cluster. What do you fellas think? I need to decide this and install them and the cluster into the dash before I reinstall the steering column and wheel.

- Liftgate: I've painted the cast piece for the bottom of the liftgate, and the rain gutter at the top of the liftgate, and assembled the liftgate with all the parts except the 'stopper rubbers' (which I had a difficult time getting into the holes yesterday). The stopper rubbers I have were purchased from Classic Parts (perhaps too long ago)...? I also received the bracket that was missing from my shipment from Mook and now have the brackets for the gas lifts on the liftgate and the body in preparation for mounting the liftgate. The polished stainless anti-rattle plate from Mook is also installed.
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Tailgate: I gave up on removing the old pins/bushings from the tailgate hinges and decided to just install them as they were (after repainting). I've have felt better wtih new pins/bushings but unfortunately I'm too far from MPC (Robert)'s shop... :)

In attempting to reinstall the hinges in the tailgate, I found that the prior owner had 'redrilled' the hinges from the original 5/16-24 bolt threads to 3/8-24, so the restoration bolt kit I had purchased from CARS wouldn't work. I tried some 3/8-24 bolts I had but had problems with each (hex heads were too large to get a socket thru the opening to tighten, and the heads on the cap bolts I had were too tall for the little covers to go on... so I've ordered some 3/8-24 button head screws which will probably take a week to get here before I can install the tailgate. In the meantime, I *may* install the tailgate bars and emblem etc so it will be finished before installation.

I have a half dozen *incomplete tasks* on this project (with parts scattered everywhere in the shop). These tasks are waiting until I receive correct parts, or waiting on 'additional hands' to help, OR for me to get smarter about installation! :)

Speaking of Fasteners: The latest fastener episode with the tailgate hinges to tailgate bolts are just the 'latest' in a long series of wasted time ... trying to figure out what fasteners I need, finding a source, ordering them, waiting on delivery! Over this project I've spent what must be months of total time just on *fasteners*... :(

[WagonCrazy]

You're making progress Bama. Stay at it.

[BamaNomad]

It's really slow Paul~ :) but the worst thing is the 'fastener issue' that I mentioned..

In the past I've disassembled my own cars, bagging and identifying the fasteners, then cleaning/restoring the fasteners myself so reassembly was much easier. With this car I bought disassembled, no fasteners except for a few unidentified ones, so each part I work on becomes a pain when it's time to reassemble!

[BamaNomad]

Window channel inner cowl drain: A couple of weeks ago I realized I hadn't installed these drains, and hadn't even purchased them, so I put them on order. This morning I installed the two plugs/hoses into the windshield channel, but I don't know where to run the hoses to drain outside the car... I look a quick look thru the AIM, but may have missed it.. Can someone give me some quick help here??

[57fleetside]

You are coming along good on the project. Just got to keep plugging away at stuff. Steve

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Steve... Encouragement always seems to help!~ :)

I've got a half dozen sub-projects on this car 'on hold' for one reason or another... I need to get all those finished and get more parts on the car.. :)

[LEE T]

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[BamaNomad]

Lee, THANK YOU! :) I had previously put a rubber plug in that hole, but in looking today that hole appeared to be the 'best prospect' for where the drain hose should exit... :)

Gary

[BamaNomad]

I installed the L & R drainhoses for the windshield gutter with Lee's suggestion! But I'm not sure whether to cut the extra length off right out of the cowl plug, or leave the 2-3" length there?

Today's issue: How to remove the old whisker strip from the trim at the front of the Curved Quarter glass. This is a Nomad specific issue, but hopefully one of you who have encountered/solved this problem before has a tip to help get the old worn whisker strip out of the stainless trim? I'd really like to get it apart without destroying/damaging the stainless trim.

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[BamaNomad]

I soaked those trim pieces (with the old/worn whisker strips) in Evaporust overnight and in the sun the next day and it did them a LOT of good; it removed all the rust and made the stainless easier to clean up, but I was only able to remove ONE (of four) whisker strips, so after giving Mikey a call, I elected to send them to him... Lots better than my bending them up trying to remove the old rusted whisker strips!

While waiting on those parts (and other sub-projects) to resolve themselves, I decided to drag out my AAW Wiring kit and begin doing a little reading. I was initially just thinking of maybe running the rear wiring bundle, but after putting the wires inside a protective wrap, I figured the Fuse panel needs to be installed first (which is what the instructions say too).. :) AAW recommends installing the Fuse panel up high on the inner drivers side cowl - which would seem to make it difficult to see/check fuse conditions?? The fuse panel comes with fuses installed and several wiring bundles with connectors installed and already attached to it. I need to establish the fuse panel location before I can even do the 'Rear Body' harness.
Here is the recommended location photographed with my 'marks' for the recommended mounting holes. (And what are those existing two holes for??) Are those factory for something?
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Question: Have any of you used the AAW Classic Update wiring kit for a '57? Did you mount the Fuse panel as recommended, or did you find a different (better?) location for it? I'd love to see some feedback from some of you fellas that's 'been there'...

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
I did install the AAW Classic Update kit on my 57. I put the fuse panel where recommended. I thought that whole wiring kit/process was one of the more straightforward and well engineered mods I incorporated.
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Thank you very much Doug... :) I wanted to get any feedback BEFORE I installed it rather than finding out after.. :)

Do you have any other suggestions re the kit? Things you learned doing the install?

PS. I really like the harbor blue on your '57 HT... :)

Gary

[55 Rescue Dog]

I was in the same boat, until this morning of where my fuse panel was going to go, and when I made this mounting plate. It was actually to mount my giant PCM using the under dash PSI harness, which is mounted to the backside of the plate. The ONLY place it was going to fit was right where the radio/glove compartment was. As it turns out, it will be the perfect place to mount my fuse panel. I'm using the Ron Francis Express panel and I think it will fit nicely, plus all I have to do is open the door to troubleshoot.1149511496

[BamaNomad]

I LIKE the concept of installing the fuses/breaker panel behind the glovebox door, RD... but when running the Vintage Air Evap unit behind the dash... the space is 90% occupied..

I figured out today that the two holes near where AAW recommends mounting the new fuse panel are for the retaining screws holding the *original* fuse panel... since I didn't disassemble this car that was not initially obvious to me, but in hindsight, it should have been.. :) I can put screws in the holes, or fill them with bondo or caulk, since they won't be used in the new configuration.

I don't think AAW intended it, but I'm considering installing rivnuts in the panel so I can easily remove the fuse panel (at least pull it down out of that hole) for easier access and maintenance... assuming the cable lengths will allow it?

[Belair-o]

Hi Gary,
I got the old Ecklers Classic Chevy mag, back when they did a lot of good how-to articles. They had two consecutive articles on wiring, using the AAW kit. The extra explanation, combined with pics, helped me to see the process more clearly. I think I can find the issues, and scan the articles if you would like.
I bought the dedicated crimpers from AAW, and thought they worked good; others may have better suggestions. I used the Painless braided wire covers kit , to help 'hide' the bundles underhood. I used silicone tape from NAPA to help bundle wire runs, and to terminate the braid cover runs, plus used some little zip ties.
Thanks for the complement on the color of my car! I like the darker colors to provide more contrast with all the stainless and sail panels.
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Thanks for the tips Doug; I plan to use those ideas also.

Don't spend a lot of time looking for the wiring articles; I have all those mags also, but would take half a day to find the right ones! :) If you do identify the month/yr mag, then that would help me.. :)

[Belair-o]

Hi Gary,
I checked on the issues, and you want Chevy Classics, Oct & Nov of 2008.
You will likely remember the Nov issue, as it has a yellow 56 Nomad on the cover.:)
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

thanks very much Doug! Gives me a lot better chance to find my articles now.. :)

[WagonCrazy]

Gary,
Havent forgotten about the nomad tailgate hinges. I know i have them somewhere, but I'm unable to get to all the boxes of stuff I packed away at the moment due to the garage being worked on right now. I'll find them though and text you with some pics to verify the pin aren't loose. Give me another 2 weeks please...

[BamaNomad]

No problem Paul... :)

[BamaNomad]

LOOKING FOR REAR WIRING HARNESS COVERS.... ?

I'm beginning to spend some time trying to figure out the AAW 'Classic Update' wiring kit I purchased several years ago for my '57 Nomad project... I'm wishing I'd found out a bit more detail about the various AAW (and other) wiring options before my purchase...

I thought I'd begin by installing the 'Rear Body Kit', my thought being that was 'simple' and straightforward, but then I realized before I could trim the rear wiring to length and wire it up, I had to locate/install the *large* Fuse Panel (and it's 9000 wires) which AAW recommends installing up high on the left side under the dash (behind the kick panel)... Obviously they chose that location due to the ease of viewing fuses and labels later? (J/K.. I could not imagine a more difficult location, so obviously they just located it where the original was (the original had 4 or 5 fuses!)... I probably will use less than HALF of the fuses the AAW kit has allocation for!

In doing all that I realized if I installed the rear body wiring, I'd have to install the wiring harness covers at the door openings (and behind) to protect the wiring. I searched for and finally located my wiring harness covers that go inside the door openings, but did NOT find the ones that go behind the door (at the sides of the rear seat area). The rear ones are pretty simple pieces (21-1/2" L, 2.5" W, with a 1/4" step 5/8" from the inner edge, so simple to make if one has a sheet metal brake and sheet metal. Since I don't have easy access to the proper tool, I'm wondering if anyone knows a source for purchase of these parts? Or if I'm going to have to use the edge of my workbench and a body hammer to make these parts? OR do any of you have used pieces you don't need??

[55 Rescue Dog]

I'm in the same boat trying to figure out where to route all of the damn wires. I'm missing the wire cover for the drivers door too, and am trying to find an alternate route for the rear wiring, and not coming up with any great ideas. I really don't want to run them across the drivers door sill with some extra wires added laying elsewhere on the floor going into, and out of the wire tray, stepping on them all the time. Down the center would work if I can find a way to the back of the car.

[BamaNomad]

RD, it would be best to run them in the channels GM provided (the same channels exist on both sides of the body, but they need sheet metal covers to protect the wires.

Danchuk has both the front and rear wiring covers for 2 dr cars (#10133 for front at $38.95/pr) and rear (#17607 for $43.95/pr). Pricing is a little odd since the front pieces are longer and more complicated to make than the simple rears... but I suppose that might be based on sales volume or ??

If you run your wires down the middle of the car you'd need a conduit of some type to protect them.

[55 Rescue Dog]

^^^ Yes, sometimes I wish on my car I could just use electrical conduit fittings, and tubing just like industrial machine tools. I am going to use plastic electrical cord grip connectors instead of grommets for a couple brake lines, and whatever wires I need to run through sheet metal where I can.

[Tabasco]

[B]The rear ones are pretty simple pieces (21-1/2" L, 2.5" W, with a 1/4" step 5/8" from the inner edge, so simple to make if one has a sheet metal brake and sheet metal.
Since you have the dimensions, is there a local sheet metal shop that could just make you a pair? When I needed new ones for my wagon I took an old rusted one to a sheet metal shop. I had them do the 1/4 inch bend on 4 pieces of sheet metal the correct length. I had to do a few small trims when I got them home, and they work well. It took the shop 1 day to do it and they charged me $40.00.

[BamaNomad]

Tobasco, Thanks... that's what I'm checking on. I sent a message to a local sheet metal shop yesterday to get a quote... we'll see. If they aren't interested, I'll check out another.. :) (Note: Tractor Supply sells 16 gauge sheet metal in 24x8 dimension for $14... which is enough for two of them - if I can locate a buddy with a sheet metal brake)..

[BamaNomad]

Rear floor wire harness covers: I ended up buying a piece of 12x24 (22 gauge) sheet metal from my local Tractor supply ($10.99 total cost with tax), which when trimmed to 21.5" in length, provided 4 pieces 2-3/4" W x 21.5' L. I checked the thickness/gauge of an original piece to determine 22 gauge was correct for these pieces (Not 16 gauge). I had a local sheet metal shop make the shear cuts and put ONE of the 90 deg bends in each of the 4 pieces (charge $22.50). and I bought a 'metal folder' from Harbor Freight for $11, which I used along with some other metal and wood I had to make the corresponding 90deg bend (~1/4" from the first one). I was unable to find a shop that could make two 90 deg bends only 1/4" apart...

So I made 4 of the parts (for my two '57 Nomads) for a total < $45. Instead of paying $43 _ shipping for each pair of the pieces. So I save a few $$ and got more satisfaction than paying for Danchuk parts! I drilled the correct holes yesterday and prepped all of the parts (front and rear) so maybe if it's warm enough I'll put a little SPI epoxy on them tomorrow.

On other fronts:
Wiring: I'm continuing to spend a little time with *planning* and figuring out the AAW wiring kit and what I need to change and where, and have begun bundling and wrapping the runs. and ordered/received some larger copper braided ground straps. Figuring on Ground strapping between body/frame (perhaps in more than one location), and also engine and frame.
Windshield: This was a project that went on WAY TOO LONG... turned out that the supposed NOS windshield I received when I bought the first '57 Nomad long ago... is apparently NOT for a '57 Nomad (even though the width measured from lower corner to opp lower corner, and the height in the middle are the same as a new '57 Windshield!). After trying 4 different times spread across many months, with assistance from 3 different helpers, that first windshield just WOULD NOT go in - although I could get it close enough to encourage me to try again!... embarrassing here, but I can finally laugh about it. After my 24 yr old pharmacist-student grandson and I worked all one day trying to get it in, I gave up and retrieved a NEW '57 windshield from the other shop and after getting the rubber/stainless installed, we had the windshield in the car within an hour! Boy howdy do I feel stupid for trying so long and so many days wasted with a INCORRECT WINDSHIELD! I was very determined! *L* (after removing the T&N rubber from the first windshield, we carted the 'bad windshield over to another '57 Nomad (which has no glass installed) and it was pretty obvious as soon as we laid it into place that it was NOT RIGHT for a Nomad! (I should have done this FIRST THING, or at least after failing the first install attempt). Maybe one of you can learn something from reading here about my screwup on this!
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[LEE T]

You always ask questions when something doesn't go right, why not this time?
(34) 1955 210 Back Glass Fitment/Install | Chevy Tri Five Forum (https://www.trifive.com/threads/1955-210-back-glass-fitment-install.197838/#post-2152564)

[BamaNomad]

Well Lee... :) ... I'd installed a half dozen or so windshields successfully (without issue) in the past, AND this windshield came with a '57 Nomad I'd purchased (years ago) and I was told it was NOS for the Nomad (and it 'looked' right and measured right). I HAD asked when I first attempted install (over in the trifive forum), and I got a few suggestions (but not about using these spacers). I did get it suggested (or asked) if I'd fitted the bare windshield into the frame before hand (and I hadn't). I was more concerned whether the glass had 'bent' from being stored for so long (30 yrs)... Anyway, this is a lesson that will stick with me for a long time... :)

PS. Seeing your wooden blocks makes me think that taking an 'old' WS gasket, and cutting a few sections from it (2-4" long each) and using them on the lower and top edge of the windshield would serve a similar purpose (allow fitting check w/o danger of breaking/chipping the windshield). Do you think that would work? I used multiply folded shop rags in 4-5 locations when I checked the bad windshield in the other Nomad...

[BamaNomad]

When I went to install the lower windshield stainless, I was unable to find the lower corner stainless retainers in my stock (which I thought I had several pair of), so I had to order them and wait. They came in a few days ago, and since then I've attempted a couple of times to get all the retainers in place and the newly polished stainless installed; Just how many 'hands' are required for this task? Does anyone have any tips for doing it single handedly (ie. single me with two hands?).
I'm having difficulty with getting the lower stainless pieces engaged simultaneously with the center trim piece and bracket, and with the fastened-down retainer, and getting it engaged with the corner trim stainless... maybe I'm lacking on the correct order to install these pieces?

[55 Rescue Dog]

I just recently had the battle putting my trim on too. I think the center trim piece goes in last, and just snaps in. That's how I did mine.

[BamaNomad]

While my grandson was home from pharmacy school, I was able to get a couple of 'two man' tasks performed which had been waiting. :)

After trying several different approaches with the brackets/clips (unsuccessfully), I finally found the correct ORDER to install the clips to get the lower stainless and corner pieces installed! :) The best order I found was to screw down the center clips but leave it loose. The other screw down clips needed a small washer installed under it to allow room for the stainless to slide around it. The clips in the bottom curves with the stud was installed after sliding the trim piece onto the screwed down clip, leaving the center clip unattached for a bit. The studded clip was installed onto the trim next and was left 'loose' in the trim until the trim was adjusted into the corner triangular trim. I also had to do some 'minor adjustments to the ends of the trims where they engaged into one another, using a lubricant and first making sure they 'engaged' before trying to make it happen on the car. and Yes, RD, the center trim piece can be installed last when the trims are adjusted and snugged down and screws installed.

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With my grandson's assistance, we also did an initial fitting and installation of the liftgate and tailgate, although the new weatherstrip is cold/stiff and is resisting a full and good gate adjustment. A nomad friend suggested leaving them closed and keep the garage warm as possible and the rubber would ease and allow a tighter adjustment, so the gates will 'adjust' on their own for a short while, as I move onto other tasks... :) The two gates do close together without interference with one another which was a concern...

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[55 Rescue Dog]

Awesome! I love the stainless trim, but I am really hating putting it on, and mine won't have much. I wish someone could come up with a good way to just stick them on for a lot of pieces.

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
Those were some big steps forward! The completed windshield install and trim, and the tailgates install look great! Real purdy, really pops!
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

I appreciate the nice comments Doug, and RD.. :) (Although I'm quickly learning that regardless how badly you want an install or task to 'go perfectly', that *nothing* is perfect! :) I learned that long ago, but I suppose with this car I'd forgotten ... :)

RD? Is your car a 210 or BelAir? (ps. The factory did go to 'stick on' trim, but not for about 15-20 years AFTER our trifives were built! You may remember how many complained when that happened!).. :)

[markm]

I got really lucky my brother in law did an excellent job restoring my 56 BA ht stainless, plus helped install it. My 72 Cheyanne Super has a mix if glue on and bolt on fastners on the body side moldings.

[BamaNomad]

Factory Dash-Speaker Grill retainer ??

I'm missing one of the little retainers (screw thread with retainer clip).. that is used to retain the factory radio speaker grill to the top of the dash. (See photos). Does anyone have an extra, or can you suggest a source for, or an alternative for it??

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And while I'm asking, Can one of you suggest a decent aftermarket 'stereo' speaker to fit behind this grill and not interfere with Vintage Air Evap? I'm going to put in 'some kind' of stereo, but haven't decided yet. The dash speaker *may* be the only speaker I install, or I might decide to put a couple of 'detachable' speaker boxes under the rear seat. All suggestions appreciated!

[BamaNomad]

I'm not happy with the fit of the liftgate to the body on my Nomad. Apparently the way to 'fix' this by bringing the liftgate a little tighter/closer to the body is use of shims between the hinges and the body (inner roof structure). There are two hinges with six bolts retaining each of them to the body as shown in the photo. I can't imagine trying to use washers for each of the six bolts and keeping them all in place while getting the bolts started! See photo..


I am thinking that a 2" x 2" piece of 1/16" metal with appropriate holes drilled in them would suffice and be adaptable (two thickness would move the liftgate in by 1/8") and would still be possible get all the bolts started.. What have the rest of you wagon owners used for this? Is there a source for such shims, or am I needing to cut / drill some appropriate shims?
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[Custer55]

I would think you would have to make those shims yourself. Not hard to do. What I have found helps when trying to line things up and get shims installed is make studs for about half the holes or so to get the hinges lined and in place then replace them one at a time with the bolts so the shims stay in place.

[BamaNomad]

I think you're right, Custer.. I was only asking in case someone had a better solution~ :)

I planned on drilling the holes oversize to aid in getting the bolts started. There are nutplates in the body structure so all the 'nuts' move together.

[timo pajala]

Looking really good!

[BamaNomad]

Thank you Timo, but my progress has really slowed this past year with all the virus stuff ...

[timo pajala]

Thank you Timo, but my progress has really slowed this past year with all the virus stuff ...

Same here but mainly because i busted my knee :|

[BamaNomad]

I had a local metal shop cut out some 2" x 2" pieces of 16 gauge metal, which I've drilled 1/2" dia holes (3) in each one to allow use for liftgate shimming and then primed them before installing (which I've not yet done). My tailgate is mounted so I can wait until I'm ready to install my interior trim before doing the shim install... parts are ready! (Cost me $26 for 20 pieces of the 2x2-16 gauge and a few hours of drilling on my drill press trying to drill 4 at a time!).
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I've had the radio speaker grill retainers on order from a Danchuk distributor for 3 months, still don't have them because Danchuk didn't have them either! I only need a single one (the larger one) if any of you have an excess one...

[BamaNomad]

Recently I've installed the NOS windshield wiper transmissions I've had for 30 yrs am looking at the correct order to install the other 'under dash' items. I think the vintage Air 'defroster' ducts need to be installed before mounting the Evaporator unit?? I used the trick suggested by Harold Louisiana in his 'How to Restore your '57 Chevy' book on connecting the transmission cables to the central drive unit before installing them THRU the windshield wiper drive hole in the firewall, and also taped the cables together to help keep them together during that process! that worked out pretty well, much better than attempting to wind the cables around the central drum under the dash! :)
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[BamaNomad]

I'm in the process of installing curved glass and sliders in my Nomad. Curved glass is 99% in and I'm working on understanding the Fisher process for the slider/channel installs..

Having recently completed my quarter glass installs, and now working on all the issues related to the slider windows and channels, I thought It would be a good idea to list the things I've learned (maybe this is more for myself, since I have another Nomad I will need to do the same to, if I can ever get it painted).. https://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
1) Quarter glass seals: A friend who has restored many show winning Nomads over the years told me some of the 'stuff' that he learned and I always try to follow what he tells me. One thing he mentioned re the seals for the curved quarter glass is to use T&N seals if possible, as he's had more issues with other suppliers. I assume he was able to make the others work, just with more effort. I made a point to buy T&N seals (several years ago) so I used those.
2) Quarter Glass Install: I put off this job for a LONG time and was very hesitant because of all the 'stories' I've heard over the years, but surprisingly my driver's side curved glass and seal went right in with not a great effort. A neighbor volunteered to come over and assist me and it helped to make sure I didn't 'drop the glass' thru the hole trying to do it by myself, although he had no trifive/nomad experience is even a 'foreign car' guy!~ https://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 He's also smaller than me so he was able to work from the cargo deck more easily than I (the distance from my butt to my head is more than the vertical distance from the cargo deck to the roof, so I had to do the interior tasks trying to hold my upper body at an angle. If you're 6' or over, find a shorter buddy to help you on this! https://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
3) Caulking used: The rubber seal does most of the 'sealing' (and the area under the quarter glass and slider glass is designed for a little water to come in and drain thru holes into the area under the exterior sheet metal, so absolute seal isn't necessary (or possibly ever achieved?), But.. use a thinned strip of non-hardening caulk (3M or Mortex) at the lower corner of the stainless trim to help; stretch out each strip to about half the orig diameter and then apply it into the corner of the stainless.
noteI used the black 3M strip caulk (which is very sticky esp when warm), and I think it 'resisted' movement of the glass/rubber once it was in contact. Originally GM used a gray 3M strip caulk on fifties-60's cars, but that is no longer available, and the current black is MUCH stickier than the original gray. A similar material to the original gray strip caulk is sold by Mortex, and I'm thinking for this job next time I'll use the Mortex. The gray will not be seen externally if you apply it into the corner of the stainless trim but it will stay pliable and help seal the rubber to the stainless!
4) Lubricant during install: Using a lubricant on the edges of the rubber will aid you in sliding the glass/seal into position. I used a little 'original GOJO and rubbed it on the seal just before installation, which helps the seal slide into position. you may have to work the glass into position and even use your hand on the forward edge to help push it into the rear corners!
5) Retainers and screws: If you have your retainers and screws ready (generally #8 sheet metal screws, from 3/8" to 5/8" L) you can go ahead and install the retainers. I verified that I had the correct retainers and appropriate screws before I installed the glass so mine was all ready to go. One retainer hole in my car was 'enlarged', so I had to use a #10 screw for that one.
6) Photos of installed Quarter Glass with retainers in place:
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7) Stainless Trim on Quarter Glass front edge:
11991You can install the curved glass with the forward stainless trim installed (or not). I had mine on the rubber before hand which helped me when I had to use my hand as a 'hammer on the front edge' to help the curved glass go back into position. Afterwards (yesterday) I found out I'd installed the incorrect trim piece on the rubber beforehand, so I had to use some windex to help get the trim off the rubber.
8) Photos of Stainless Edge Trim for Quarter Glass and Slider:
The correct stainless trim for the curved glass forward edge will have a fur strip attached to the 'inner facing' edge to help with the water/wind intrusion. A similar trim and rubber seal will apply to the rear edge of the slider, but it will not have the fur strip! I had Michael Domaracki restore my stainless trims for the curved/slider glasses, and he also removed the old fur strip and installed a new strip for me (and he did his usual great job).. https://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 - but he didn't remind me that the trim with the fur strip went on the curved glass edge!.. https://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 J/K .. I think I need someone looking over my shoulder all the time to keep me from screwing up!~ Here are photos of both stainless glass edge trims to help you understand the difference.
https://www.trifivechevys.com/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA711987
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I'm now trying to get my ducks in a row and figure out and understand exactly how the slider and it's channels are mounted. It seems everybody does this different; usually with screws thru the channel bottom, but I'm more interested in how GM/Fisher originally did this and I've purchased some rosebud clips which I think were used by Fisher and which popped into the oval holes in the body, but I haven't figured out how to keep the clips on the slider channel! Can anyone help me out on this?

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I positioned this piece of channel in place and marked on the channel the locations for the oval holes (which accept the rosebud clips), but I'm not happy with the hold which the clips have on the channel... any ideas/suggestions appreciated!

[BamaNomad]

I completed my slider installation weeks ago, but wasn't totally happy with how it went so I've delayed in reporting on it... Yesterday I installed the slider latch to the passenger side slider, and after allowing a day for the glass setting rubber to expand, I trimmed off the excess of the rubber and adjusted the latch.

Also the past couple of days I've pulled out 'rechromed original parts' that I had Lemon Grove Plating do in 1990. I had this done for my 'first' '57 Nomad, but I'm going to use the rechromed parts on this '57 I'm doing (the parts have been wrapped in newspaper long enough!).. :)

I spent some time on the rechromed tail light housings, painted the areas which was originally black, verified the socket was good and grounded, and installed the tail light housing to body seals. I also painted the bare metal on the splash shields (which mount to the underside of the TL housings.

i also pulled the hood chrome (rockets, cups, backing plates and ordered new mounting brackets for those). I polished the chrome where it had been sitting for 30 yrs... :) I put some black paint in the grooves of the backing plates) so maybe I can install them tomorrow after applying a good wax coat.

I'll take a couple of photos once these parts are mounted to the body.

[567chevys]

Just Read this ,
Really nice job of posting the steps , now when I get around to my stuff on my Nomad it will be easier to do the work .

Thanks Sid

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Sid, I appreciate your comments, although I'm not sure what 'order' you're referring to.. :) Figuring out the order to reinstall parts is actually a time consuming task for me, and I've no idea whether I'm doing it 'right' or OK or not! I spend more time 'worrying' about it, and figuring than I do 'doing'... just one of my problems!

Today I did a first 'fit' of the assembled 'hood rockets' - assembled from Lemon Grove rechromed parts from my 1st '57 Nomad but installed today on the current Nomad. The 'fit' in the holes in the hood was not as good as I'd like... not sure if this if because the parts came from a different '57 Nomad, or the rechrome process? (or perhaps the LONG wait?).. is over 30 yrs too long ? :)

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The 'rockets' (or windsplits - whatever you want to call them) are the same PN for each side, but the 'dish' and the back portion are unique PN's for each side. I purchased new 'brackets from Mutton HOllow parts and when installing them, I found out that they used 'metric' 10 mm hardware for the part.. WHY do companies making a reproduction for a fifties car that used all english sizing do that???

I also cleaned up, assembled, and installed (for a first trial) the tail light housings. The housings themselves were rechromed also by Lemon Grove back in 1990 and remained wrapped up until recently. In 1990 I had fear that Lemon Grove might shut down or change their processes due to'environmental concerns', so I boxed up my '55 Nomad 6-pc Chrome, and ALL the chrome parts (minus bumpers) for my '57 Nomad and shipped them off to Lemon Grove (National City Calif at that time). some time later I received back two huge boxes of wrapped rechromed parts, which I unwrapped, checked and cleaned, and rewrapped back up until recently... (Actually in 2014 I had my first '57 Nomad in a paint shop for paint, and while that was going on (or was supposed to ahve been going on), I restored the chassis and unwrapped and prepared all the rechrome I'd had for 25 yrs! These parts have been on my pool table since 2014, under a dust cloth (sheet)... Haven't been able to play pool in the last 7 yrs, so it's time these parts got put on a car! (Even if it's a different car!~).. :)

For the tail light housings, I cleaned, polished and waxed, and painted the backside and the lower edges in 'black'. Installed reproduction housing to body seals, lens gaskets, and lower dust shields (Danchuk), AAW wiring pigtails, NOS lens, orig screws, etc... Then the Assemblies were ready to install.

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[carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)]

nice bling, your doing. good. ----------> you know what's coming: what you do after lunch???????

[BamaNomad]

Attached below is the photo I took of the tail light area, and the grommet attached to the tail light harness (AAW) which I totally don't understand how this grommet would work in that hole in the body... Can someone who understands this or has installed an AAW harness help me out on this?
Is there a different type of grommet that works in such a hole? or?? What do I need to do for this?

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Below is a photo of the installed sliders which I finished (almost) a few weeks ago... (been babysitting my GREAT grandson during the days for the past few weeks which has slowed down my work some... and I have to say spending time with my newest relative is more fun than hassling with installing parts on the '57 Nomad.. :)

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[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
I didn't remember any issues when I installed the tail light grommets on my 57 2-dr hardtop, so I went out to see what that area looks like on my car:
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You can see from the image that the hole the grommet fits in on my car is way over toward the trunk opening, and I think just a simple hole with out the sheetmetal rolling in, like it does on your wagon. It has been a while, but I sure don't remember any fit issues like you are facing. I assume the grommet you have would fit a non-wagon body, and that there must be a different grommet for a wagon?

By the way, your Nomad is really looking good - love it when the jewelry goes on!
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

I appreciate the comments Doug! :) and Thanks for the note about sedans being different than wagons... :)

[WagonCrazy]

Same grommet on my Nomad. I just left it there tucked inside behind the taillight. It doesnt fit anything

[BamaNomad]

Sheet 21 of section 12 in the Assembly Manual shows all the '57 models being the same there in the tail light area,

For all passenger cars in '57, the tail light harness just feeds thru that hole... no grommet...but apparently non-wagons have holes thru the body into the trunk area where the grommet should be used?

It does make me curious if that grommet (with the nipple) 'might' fit in the hole thru the cargo floor where the rear wiring goes thru? It's not the same as the original grommet for the purpose, but it might be for the same diameter hole.

[BamaNomad]

I thought I had posted the assembled photos of my tail light assemblies, and their mounting, but it seems I haven't.. I used original tail light housings I'd had rechromed at Lemon Grove Plating around 1991 (they needed to be used), along with NOS lens, gaskets, and new bulbs, splash shields, and wiring pigtails to assemble. Here are the assembled and mounted tail light assemblies:

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I have spent more time looking for parts I know I have, but didn't find my license plate lights until today so I completed the assembly of my rear bumper. I still need to find the rear body to bumper seal (I know I have one) before I can mount it.

I had an issue with the rechromed bumper guards that came with the car when I purchased the 'kit'. When I was checking the nuts/bolts required, I found out that the welded nut on the upper side of each bumper guard was wallowed out... too large for the bolt. My first thought was to install helicoils, so I ordered the 1/2"x13 heli coil kit, but when I attempted to drill out the nut to the required 17/32 size (for the helicoil tap), half the nut fell out. So after some thought, I knocked the remainder of the nut out and then 'cemented' a new nut behind the guard... (same thing happened to the other guard as well). Here is the assembled bumper with guards ready to install (once I find my seal, or receive the replacement I have ordered). Good thing I have two '57 Nomads so I have a use for all the double ordered parts... :)

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[markm]

I really like that color. I too suffer from the double ordered parts syndrome. Its a side effect to the prevously mentioned CRS.

[BamaNomad]

I've had my assembled rear bumper ready to install for 2 or 3 weeks (time keeps slipping by), and finally received the rear body to bumper seal and installed it a few days ago. Since then my rear bumper has been ready to mount; I just need a friend (ANY friend) to stop by and help me LIFT this heavy piece and bolt it on without scraping paint off the body! :) I know I'm getting weaker with old age, but man these bumpers sure seem heavier than they did the last time I handled one.. :)

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[BamaNomad]

Ohhh... and while I've been waiting for parts, I took the time to re-wrap the remaining 'lemon Grove rechrome items' (and a few NOS items) that have been on top of my pool table for (cough .. over 7 yrs) and boxed them up for toting to the garage where I'm assembling the red '57 Nomad. Over the past months, I've begun pulling off the parts I needed, but it's just been TOO LONG since I saw my pool table... :)

From late March 2014 (When I was working on my turquoise '57 Nomad)...

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And from Wednesday after sorting, re-wrapping, and boxing these parts.. (Hey! I can see my pool table again).. :)

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Of course I've lots of other parts (for '69 Camaro Z28, '72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, etc) stored in this room right now which also needs to be 'moved' to make this into a 'Billiards room' again.. :)

[markm]

According to Jed Clampet that is a fancy eatin room.

[Belair-o]

Nice to see the pool table emerge! Time to rack 'em up again!

[WagonCrazy]

Lookin' good Bama. I'd come over and help you if I wasn't 1500 miles from you. :p

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Paul! :) I appreciate the good intentions regardless.. :)

[BamaNomad]

Well, I did get some help with the rear bumper, but found out that the holes in the custom frame wouldn't allow the bumper to go as tight against the body as I wished, so after a little thought I decided to put new holes in the bumper bracket (which Trifive Richard did for me on his bridgeport after I removed the brackets. I have the brackets back from Richard and have reassembled the rear bumper (after first checking the brackets against the holes in the frame), but now I'm awaiting some assistance to again get the rear bumper up to the body and bolt it on... (update ahead hopefully).. :)

While waiting, I've cleaned, polished, and waxed the FRONT Bumper sections and yesterday assembled the front bumper now having it ready to mount as well (IF I have room), although I'm thinking probably the front fenders need to be in place before installing the front bumper?? What say you fellas?

Also in looking at the Assembly manual for the front bumper, it appears there's a bracket which runs from the outside almost straight towards the frame? I don't have such a bracket and my original '57 Sedan doesn't have that bracket either? This is from the point on the bumper where it attached to the bottom of the fenders??

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The part is called 'Brace, front bumper rear, PN 3734111 and 112. Was this part installed on all '57's? Is it a part that typically get eliminated when front bumpers are removed/reinstalled?

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
I can't tell you about all 57's. I can tell you my 2dr HT has the braces, and to me they make sense, providing triangular structural support of the front bumper and lower part of the fenders, and match the mounting hole/bolt on the bumper. I assume all 57 cars had those braces.
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Hi Doug,

and Thanks.. the PAM certainly implies they all got it, but my '57 Nomad and my '57 Sedan doesn't... :) I need to scout those up before I assemble the front of my Nomad...

Gary

[BamaNomad]

The parts I need are available in the aftermarket for $25 each, but I'd rather have original parts if possible... If any of you have these parts extra, let me know via PM what you'd want for them. I'd be looking for straight and rust free (surface rust and dirt no problem as I'll be cleaning, prepping and priming/painting).. meanwhile, i'm heading to my other shop to dig thru my parts and brackets.. :) maybe I'll get lucky and find them? Per the PAM assembly diagrams, the original parts were pn 3734111 and 3734112, and referred to as 'front bumper rear brace, LH and RH. They should be 'straight' and close to 18" in length from bolt hole to bolt hole.




https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/ukwAAOSwajVUPDwG/s-l225.jpg (https://www.ebay.com/itm/171781437583?hash=item27fef8b88f:g:ukwAAOSwajVUPDw G&vxp=mtr)

[BamaNomad]

Chevynut alerted me to a pair of brackets (rear braces for front bumper) on ebay for sale, so I ordered them and received them over Christmas. They are good with only very light surface rust/dirt on them and they are unbent. Today I hope to get over to my shop and beadblast them in preparation for prepping and painting.

I've not been in here for a week or more due to losing my computer disk drive (wtih all my accesses and passwords).. but I'm gradually getting back to speed on the sites I frequent (this one was the last one I really needed to get back).

PS. RANT ON. I spent a week dealing with (and cursing) a new computer which had Windows 11 on it, before I finally took it back and just replaced the system drive in my old computer with a 250 GB 'ram drive', and Staples reloaded Windows 10 on it for me. I understand MS states they will support Windows 10 until at least 2025. Before I will use Windows 11, I think I will give up on computers, even though I've worked with computers daily since 1968 or so! IMO Microsoft has done more to hold back improvements in computer/software technology than all other companies combined, and it's all due to the 'monopoly' that our government allows MS to continue to exert over our society! Microsoft's ONLY interest is in promoting/propagating that monopoly and forcing companies and individuals to 'pay a passage' every year for whatever crap they want to throw at us, and curriently it seems to be the 'social media crap that is driving all their changes, rather than improving efficiency and utility! RANT OFF... and I apologize! :)

[Belair-o]

Hi Bama,
I read the same as you, that Windows will support WIN10 thru March 2025. I have been getting notices on my PC that I could update to 11, and to check to see if my PC can be updated. When I checked, I see that my PC is not compatible with WIN11. My wife's PC is even older than mine, so figure her PC can't be updated either.
Regards, Doug

[BamaNomad]

Doug,

If you're familiar with windows 10, and even LIKE the older 'classic windows' functions, then you do not want to even think about Windows 11.. It's so bad, that I fully expect microsoft to replace it or modify it into something usable. I had the system up for a week before I took it back, and several basic functions I never was able to find out how to do them!

PS. the later updates to Windows 10 will make win10 LOOK a lot like windows 11 (Microsoft's way of slowwalking users to where they want them to be!).. but you can still get your jobs done with upgraded 10... although if I could install an earlier version of 10, I'd reject the later updates to it!

[markm]

I like each new edition of Windows less than the one it replaced.

[WagonCrazy]

you guys are still on PCs? Running Windows (anything versions)?

[Rick_L]

Still on a PC. What are you on?

[BamaNomad]

I like each new edition of Windows less than the one it replaced.

That is true for many of us, Mark. Microsoft is generating new versions for 'babies' who have never used a computer before... it's sorta like 'creeping socialism'.. :(

Windows NT was the best version they ever put out.. since then it's been 'less and less'...

[WagonCrazy]

Apple around here.
I'm on an iMac desktop (for when I get on this website at my home office).
Sure...they put out regular upgrades to their operating system, but it's been pretty bulletproof and seamless.

Oh, and I have one non Apple laptop out in the garage (a Chromebook) but that doesnt' need any Microsoft to work. Just use that on the workbench for web searches mostly. how to videos, etc.

[Rick_L]

If that "Chromebook" doesn't run on Microsoft, what does it run on?

[BamaNomad]

My neighbor came over and gave me a hand in mounting my rear bumper this afternoon (finally). I'm not totally happy with it, and the forward/side brackets are not installed as yet, but I should be able to finish it up myself.

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[Belair-o]

Lots of bling back there - looks good!

[markm]

I really like that color.

[BamaNomad]

Thanks fellas... but with each task, there's always something I'm not happy about.. :)

The color is a GM color, used on several different vehicles (Victory Red, Salsa Red)...

[Belair-o]

I think your car looks fantastic! Mostly, the things we obsess about, nobody else cares.
Anyway, excellent job!

[BamaNomad]

The RH bumper end needs to be rotate up slightly and pulled in towards the body. Not sure if adding the front bracket will help that or if I need to remove the bumper end and try to 'alter' how it attaches to the bumper center.... The LH side in relation to the body is satisfactory to me.

[markm]

I find it interesting hood installed first, I have always done it last. I am probabally doing that wrong too.

[BamaNomad]

I find it interesting hood installed first, I have always done it last. I am probabally doing that wrong too.

Don't read anything into that.. :) When I bought the 'painted body', the sheet metal was attached and pretty well aligned. I left the doors and hood attached, but removed the fenders, rad support and inner fenders to facilitate getting the body mounted to the custom frame (and I had to trim the bottom of the inner fenders to clear the suspension. Another complicating factor considered was that I had NO MORE storage place for the hood that wouldn't get it scratched up.. :)

I'm just about to the point of reattaching the front sheet metal... :)

[Gerry Cot]

Gorgeous - great project

[markm]

My brain just kicked in a 55-57 is one of the few cars that leaving the hood on is even possible when removing those parts. Most cars the hood hinge bolts to fender or inner fender.

[567chevys]

Gary beautiful 57 Mad , Love the color


Sid

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Sid... but actually I prefer the original Matador Red... but this one was close enough and it was already sprayed.. :)k

[BamaNomad]

Just so I could 'complete something' (and pick up some loose parts and get them installed on the car), I installed the spacer strips and linoleum on the tailgate today, along with the Mooks stainless trim and screws. I used contact cement on both the space strips and when installing the linoleum on the TG.

It seems that each task I start runs into some issue that causes it to be 'put on hold'... I've a half dozen tasks half or more completed, that are 'on hold'... Since it's been so long since I've actually had a 'good feeling' about a task being completed, I decided to proceed with finishing my tail gate area, and even though none of the rest of the interior is done yet, I did a final installation of the linoleum on the tailgate. It had been 'lying around and in my way' for quite some time, but now it's mounted, with new 'support strips', cemented down and mooks stainless trim installed to hold it all in place!
https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_1051-jpg.373419/?hash=164ff2a7270a8453bed40854aa5b5875
https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_1050-jpg.373420/?hash=164ff2a7270a8453bed40854aa5b5875


https://www.trifive.com/attachments/img_1052-jpg.373422/?hash=164ff2a7270a8453bed40854aa5b5875


I haven't attached the hinge covers (because I can't remember which screws it calls for).. :) so they are just lying in place for the photos.

[TrifiveRichard]

Looks great Gary, excellent job!

[LEE T]

I can see the design dept now just sitting around having lunch, and one of them said "Hey, lets draw a wagon that has no practical use, we'll even make it a tudor so its no good for family use, and if we don't let the tail gate go flat it will even be difficult to load, then see what the brass says about it.
Another one said "It needs to be one of the most expensive cars we have, or they might not understand that we are kidding."

What ever the reason, we all love em, and yours is looking great Gary.

[BamaNomad]

Thanks Richard, Lee... :)

Lee.. your analysis is right on.... BUT the design guys were bitching because Harley Earl wanted them to 'produce' the standout features of the Waldorf Nomad in about 6 months on a standard '55 Chassis... ! :)

[LEE T]

OOOHHH, you shot me down Gary, I didn't really know the true story. Thanks Gary.

[BamaNomad]

Your story sounded pretty good.. and probably accurate as well.. :)

[busterwivell]

Looking good, Gary!

[chevynut]

Gary, did you ever finish this car? Haven't seen an update in almost two years.

[BamaNomad]

Nope... I've battled physical/medical ills the past couple of years... hoping to get back to it soon (I have been working on the interior separate from the car).. but not yet ready to go crawling thru the car again...