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sailorblue
06-20-2017, 02:24 PM
I have a 56 Nomad that has the original powerglide trans and it is leaking oil from the front seal. I was thinking if I am going to remove it I might install a 200R4 in it's place as it is the same length and might be a good upgrade. Has anyone done this?

Rick_L
06-20-2017, 06:20 PM
I haven't done it on a trifive, but did swap in a 200-4R for an aluminum Powerglide on a 67 Nova. It's a good swap.

The best way would be to mount the engine using a side mount kit and a rear crossmember, but you don't have to. Most of the trifive parts suppliers sell a rear mount kit for TH350/200-4R/700-R4 that gives you rear mounts in the original location and lets you keep the original front mounts. If you still have the original 265, they sell a starter mount kit that lets you use your original bellhousing mount starter. You'll need a 168 tooth flexplate. If you have a later engine you can use a block mount starter with either a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel. Since a 200-4R is the same length as your cast iron Powerglide, you won't have to change driveshafts, but you'll need a 27 spline driveshaft yoke to mate the trans and driveshaft.

Beyond that, all you'll need is whatever you want for a shifter. There are pieces to connect up original column linkage. You'll need a Kugel or Lokar adjustable shift lever arm on the transmission so that you'll get full shifter travel. Without it, you won't be able to put the shifter in "Low". Also you'll need some electrical pieces and wiring to control and energize the lock up torque converter clutch.

All these extra pieces are fairly reasonably priced compared to the transmission itself.

sailorblue
06-20-2017, 08:32 PM
I haven't done it on a trifive, but did swap in a 200-4R for an aluminum Powerglide on a 67 Nova. It's a good swap.

The best way would be to mount the engine using a side mount kit and a rear crossmember, but you don't have to. Most of the trifive parts suppliers sell a rear mount kit for TH350/200-4R/700-R4 that gives you rear mounts in the original location and lets you keep the original front mounts. If you still have the original 265, they sell a starter mount kit that lets you use your original bellhousing mount starter. You'll need a 168 tooth flexplate. If you have a later engine you can use a block mount starter with either a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel. Since a 200-4R is the same length as your cast iron Powerglide, you won't have to change driveshafts, but you'll need a 27 spline driveshaft yoke to mate the trans and driveshaft.

Beyond that, all you'll need is whatever you want for a shifter. There are pieces to connect up original column linkage. You'll need a Kugel or Lokar adjustable shift lever arm on the transmission so that you'll get full shifter travel. Without it, you won't be able to put the shifter in "Low". Also you'll need some electrical pieces and wiring to control and energize the lock up torque converter clutch.

All these extra pieces are fairly reasonably priced compared to the transmission itself.

Thanks Rick! You have made it easy for me! I am going to start shopping for a trans.

WagonCrazy
06-22-2017, 06:35 AM
Here's the writeup I made about 7 years ago now, when I did the swap to a 200-4r on my 57 9 passenger wagon.
Was definately a good swap to make.
I had 3:55 rear gear, and it would cruise at 2000 rpm at 75mph...

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/235247/post/1858842/hl//fromsearch/1/