PDA

View Full Version : How do I replace/repair the park Brake cable pulleys???



BamaNomad
09-02-2017, 09:57 AM
I cleaned up the Park brake parts for my '57 Nomad today and found that the 'cheap pulleys' used in the two forward cable brackets are very worn. If there were bearings involved, they are 'gone', and the pulleys themselves have cut into the shoulder bolts which retain them. I've searched online for replacement pulleys, or rebuild kits, but no luck. I'm sure I'm not the first trifive owner to have this issue... so what have you guys done to correct this problem? Is there a source for new pulleys? or has anyone found a way to *rebuild* the pulleys?


The only online source I found is from Ghost Classic Perf, but it's for the complete pull handle, brackets, etc.. for $149... that's an expensive fix for a couple of $2 pulleys...?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevy-Bel-Air-150-210-Parking-Brake-Assembly-Bracket-Chrome-Handle-NEW/112021430382?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D6e6af f412bcd48ac957498f25a790839%26pid%3D100040%26rk%3D 1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D112021430382&_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060


Any help towards a source for pulleys or a rebuild kit OR another solution is appreciated..

BamaNomad
09-02-2017, 02:48 PM
I received a reply indicating that Ol '55 has them (both plastic and metal in fact)... so the first question is answered, but now I'm wondering if there is an aftermarket 'encased cable' that could be used with the factory pull handle to eliminate use of the brackets/pulleys? I'm using the Lokar rear E brake cables for the disk brakes in the rear...

BamaNomad
09-05-2017, 05:09 PM
Danchuk also sells the pulleys, both plastic and metal.... just are difficult to find by description... :)

So no one has any suggestions for use of an 'encased cable' that would allow elimination of the pulleys with the factory original park brake handle??

Rick_L
09-05-2017, 06:31 PM
You can't use Lokar? You mentioned them earlier. You might have to make a plain cable to sheathed cable transition, or modify the stock hand brake to terminate the sheath. The former probably still needs the pulleys unfortunately.

I think you'll also have a problem with leverage unless you mount a lever and the associated parts under the car somewhere. I've seen that done either here or on trifive, with pics. A tunnel mounted actuator or a foot operated one has enough leverage, but the stock hand brake does not. On the other hand it has the long travel needed when there's a lever under the car.

I think the best solution to get rid of the pulleys (and the lever under the car) is to use a foot operated actuator. The Lokar one will work fine, but you can adapt OEM foot operated actuators too.

LEE T
09-06-2017, 03:22 AM
Do you want the encased cable to reduce wear? Keep in mind the originals worked for 60 years without failure, even though they are worn.
But if it is to get rid of the pulleys just to clean things up, then that is a different story.

BamaNomad
09-06-2017, 04:35 AM
I was hoping for a 'proven modification' that would simplify things, but seems there's not one for the original hand-brake. My baseline 'plan' was to use a modified (shortened) lever between the factory cable and the Lokar rear brake mechanism, and it appears that's going to remain my plan.. :) I was surprised to find the damaged pulleys and that was my reason for asking if there was an alternative (for use with my factory handbrake). I know several people who utilized a modified footbrake successfully, but I didn't want to go that way since everything is already painted (on the '57 Nomad I purchased a few months ago)... I'm also planning on retaining the factory vents (along with an add-on AC) and that further limits flexibility with modifications...

Thanks fellas. I appreciate your comments.. :)

Bihili
09-06-2017, 08:55 AM
http://www.landtreproductions.com/1955-1956-1957-chevy-emergency-brake-roller-new-sedan-hardtop-wagon-conv/


http://www.landtreproductions.com/1955-1956-1957-chevy-emergency-brake-cable-front-sedan-hardtop-wagon-convertible/ (http://www.landtreproductions.com/1955-1956-1957-chevy-emergency-brake-roller-new-sedan-hardtop-wagon-conv/)

Rick_L
09-06-2017, 05:03 PM
I'm going with the Lokar foot operated e-brake actuator on my 55. No problem with retaining the fresh air vent and its cable, though I mounted it close and the actuator will partially block airflow from the upper part of the grille. But I don't think it will be a problem. A 57 will be slightly different.

I have air anyway. The fresh air vent and the vent windows are only going to get limited use in Texas.

BamaNomad
09-06-2017, 08:20 PM
http://www.landtreproductions.com/1955-1956-1957-chevy-emergency-brake-roller-new-sedan-hardtop-wagon-conv/

(http://www.landtreproductions.com/1955-1956-1957-chevy-emergency-brake-roller-new-sedan-hardtop-wagon-conv/)http://www.landtreproductions.com/1955-1956-1957-chevy-emergency-brake-cable-front-sedan-hardtop-wagon-convertible/


Thanks for the info... the ad refers to the plastic roller/pulleys are 'new and improved', but most I've talked to suggested they are problematic.. and I should go with metal?

I talked to my 'customizing' buddy today (he was helping me install the lift I just received), and we talked about a potential way to use the factory pull handle park brake and adapt an encased cable to it (a very simple mod).. so as soon as I can get the body set onto the chassis, I'm going to look at that option more seriously before I purchase new pulleys...

Is Lokar the only source for 'encased cables'??

chevynut
09-16-2017, 08:54 AM
I'm using the Lokar "encased" (sheathed) cables on my Nomad, but with a foot brake. With the hand brake you need the leverage supplied by the lever under the driveshaft, or some other way to gain mechanical advantage. The sheathed cables can be routed any way you want but the sheath has to be clamped to the frame or body so it won't move.