55 Project Rewind-Found a Great 55 210 AZ body shell for $1800!

[55 Rescue Dog]

So, my 55 210 2dr has been collecting dust in a private body shop for a year, waiting to have new quarters, tail pan, etc. installed with no start date in sight. I don't think they really wanted to take it on, because I didn't either. That was just a start, since it had plenty of other issues with the floor, and roof too. It was going to get expensive to fix. Bought the complete titled car for $3000, and have since sold a few parts for $500. Bought $2400 of new U.S. sheet metal for the rear, which is now all for sale. Anyway, I literally stumbled on a CL deal 140 miles away in a heated warehouse that even has a fork truck to load it when I find a day to pick it up when the roads are not covered in salt. It is a very straight, solid 55 2 door sedan body from Arizona that has had some nice work done to it. New quarters, mini-tubs, flat trunk floor, recessed firewall, shaved drip rails, fuel door filled, and rust free for only $1800. So now I have a body ready for an initial drop onto my C4 chassis. It will have a few things to deal with like the front body mounts that were cut off for the new firewall, and how to get fuel in it without a door. Not sure about the hood hinge mounting point yet either. After that is will be ready to come off for clean up, and primer. This is going to be a lot more fun now I hope.
It's not picture pretty, but it's beautiful.
81648165816681678168

[55 Rescue Dog]

Here is the now a parts car including title/VIN tags, and the C4 chassis. It was going to take well over $6000 to get this car not even close to what I just bought for $1800.
81698170

[busterwivell]

Nice find. Not all Arizona cars are rust free. Not all Arizona cars spent their entire life in Arizona. That said, I got extremely lucky with my 56, a Tucson car all it's life. Absolutely no rust in the floors or trunk, but needs a small amount of work on the rocker panels.

[MP&C]

Looks pretty solid from the pictures. Word of caution, most rust issues involving drip rails normally lead to shaved drip rails as an easy fix, so check carefully.. if headliner is out a flashlight and inspection mirror will tell the tale.

[567chevys]

So, my 55 210 2dr has been collecting dust in a private body shop for a year, waiting to have new quarters, tail pan, etc. installed with no start date in sight. I don't think they really wanted to take it on, because I didn't either. That was just a start, since it had plenty of other issues with the floor, and roof too. It was going to get expensive to fix. Bought the complete titled car for $3000, and have since sold a few parts for $500. Bought $2400 of new U.S. sheet metal for the rear, which is now all for sale. Anyway, I literally stumbled on a CL deal 140 miles away in a heated warehouse that even has a fork truck to load it when I find a day to pick it up when the roads are not covered in salt. It is a very straight, solid 55 2 door sedan body from Arizona that has had some nice work done to it. New quarters, mini-tubs, flat trunk floor, recessed firewall, shaved drip rails, fuel door filled, and rust free for only $1800. So now I have a body ready for an initial drop onto my C4 chassis. It will have a few things to deal with like the front body mounts that were cut off for the new firewall, and how to get fuel in it without a door. Not sure about the hood hinge mounting point yet either. After that is will be ready to come off for clean up, and primer. This is going to be a lot more fun now I hope.
It's not picture pretty, but it's beautiful.
81648165816681678168


Looks like a really good start , Congratulations on your find.


Sid

[55 Rescue Dog]

I got my 55 and parts safely back home today after being held hostage for a year at the body shop. Talked to him 2 days ago, told him about the 55 shell I found and he seemed relieved. Back in July I put $200 in the trunk and told him he could have it when he got started on the car, which was completely surrounded by junk when I saw it. Told him he could keep the ransom cash if he could get it all back to my shop, for storing it for a year, and getting it back to me in 1 piece. It all worked out.
I also called the dealer on a whim, I had bought all of the rear sheet metal from, and since he has a couple people looking for some of the parts I have, he agreed to give me his wholesale costs back in credit for all of it! That is a much better deal than stumbling over it forever trying to sell it on CL for even less. Now I can by some shiny stuff I don't need yet, that is always tough to buy later when I want it.
8172

[55 Rescue Dog]

Finally caught a 40 degree day with dry roads for the 140 mile trip home with the 55 shell. Worked great on my 5 by 10 trailer. Had to back it into my shop with a 7 foot high door, but the car on the trailer was 3 inches too high, so with my son's help as a spotter, we flipped the hitch, let all the air out of the trailer tires, and it went under the door with only a 1/4 inch clearance. Freezing rain/snow on the way. It's probably been many years since this thing has been up to
88 miles per hour.
82158216

[BamaNomad]

Interesting trailer setup, RD.. :) I'm afraid to ask how you got the body up on there.. :)

Gary

[55 Rescue Dog]

Interesting trailer setup, RD.. :) I'm afraid to ask how you got the body up on there.. :)

Gary
The guy I bought it from had a fork truck, but unfortunately I don't have one to get it back off. Trying to come up with a plan to get the trailer out from under it. It's about 3 feet off the ground, so maybe I will get my undercar lift under the trailer first, then use 4x4's spanned under the body on top of 4 stacks of concrete blocks, 5 high, pull the trailer and pallet out, then I can get the lift up to the body. Or renting a fork truck might be a better plan. Or, maybe leave it on the pallet, go 4 high on the blocks, then using the lift to work out a way to get the pallet out from under it at a lower height.
8217

[BamaNomad]

Using long landscape timbers or 4x4 will allow you to remove the trailer, and lower it down on the pallet, but the timbers will need to be long enough to clear the fenders/wheels of your trailer. I've removed bodies from frames, and reinstalled them several times using that technique, using a floor jack under alternate ends to add blocks (or remove them when lowering). Make sure if you use blocks to use good ones (no damage), orient them in a structural orientation, and use 2x8 pieces on top of the blocks to distribute the load on each stack of blocks... Once the get the trailer out of the way, and you get the body lower, you can probably lift one end of the body at a time to get the timber under the body. I use a 6' length of 2x4 under the rocker to support the body on each side before inserting the timber under the body...

[55 Tony]

I also called the dealer on a whim, I had bought all of the rear sheet metal from, and since he has a couple people looking for some of the parts I have, he agreed to give me his wholesale costs back in credit for all of it! That is a much better deal than stumbling over it forever trying to sell it on CL for even less.]

I would be more than happy to give you dealer cost for all the parts I mentioned in my PM sent back after your first post about the new body you bought. I could use the parts and lord knows I'm on a tight budget.

Hell, give me a price the dealer quoted you on the whole lot and maybe I can make things easier for you by taking it all and getting rid of what I don't need.

[55 Rescue Dog]

I would be more than happy to give you dealer cost for all the parts I mentioned in my PM sent back after your first post about the new body you bought. I could use the parts and lord knows I'm on a tight budget.

Hell, give me a price the dealer quoted you on the whole lot and maybe I can make things easier for you by taking it all and getting rid of what I don't need.
Thanks for the offer Tony, but he already has buyers lined up to buy them, and counting on me bringing them back an hour drive away this week. Sorry I didn't see your PM until after it was a done deal.

[55 Tony]

Thanks for the offer Tony, but he already has buyers lined up to buy them, and counting on me bringing them back an hour drive away this week. Sorry I didn't see your PM until after it was a done deal.

Crap.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Not sure what these are called, but can't seem to find if anyone makes them? It's the 2-piece firewall/floorboard front body mount brace. I don't really want to remove them from the parts car that would make it harder to sell when I'm done with it, unless they are expensive.
8229

[BamaNomad]

'forward body support brackets'??

I was curious about these, so I spent a few minutes searching and didn't find them available separately; You might have to obtain from a junkyard car if you don't have any at all. One option, Real Deal Steel has a 'smoothie firewall with those mounts and more' for $599... or you might call them to see if they have the support brackets separately?

http://realdealsteel.com/i-20901189-1955-56-chevy-smoothie-firewall.html

PS. Looking again at the body you purchased, it appears a prior owner removed those supports to modify the firewall; Have you asked the person you purchased from if they had those supports? Even damaged ones would probably be pretty easy to repair or rebuild...

[55 Rescue Dog]

'forward body support brackets'??

I was curious about these, so I spent a few minutes searching and didn't find them available separately; You might have to obtain from a junkyard car if you don't have any at all. One option, Real Deal Steel has a 'smoothie firewall with those mounts and more' for $599... or you might call them to see if they have the support brackets separately?

http://realdealsteel.com/i-20901189-1955-56-chevy-smoothie-firewall.html

PS. Looking again at the body you purchased, it appears a prior owner removed those supports to modify the firewall; Have you asked the person you purchased from if they had those supports? Even damaged ones would probably be pretty easy to repair or rebuild...
Yes I asked about the brackets from the guy and they are long gone I guess. This was his fathers project that passed away a few years ago. I would think they would be available somewhere, since they are used on new firewalls.

[NickP]

I would contact real deal steel. Getting them from a junk cowl assy might be a chore, just finding one might be a tough job much less both sides.

They build complete bodies so they should have what you need.

http://realdealsteel.com/images/F130125196 Contact Tel: 407-585-1957 (tel:407-585-1957)
1220 East 30th Street
Sanford, FL 32773
Email: info@realdealsteel.com
Store Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm

[55 Rescue Dog]

I would contact real deal steel. Getting them from a junk cowl assy might be a chore, just finding one might be a tough job much less both sides.

They build complete bodies so they should have what you need.

http://realdealsteel.com/images/F130125196 Contact

Tel: 407-585-1957 (tel:407-585-1957)
1220 East 30th Street
Sanford, FL 32773
Email: info@realdealsteel.com
Store Hours: 8:00am - 5:00pm
I called them, and although those piece are reproduced to attach to new firewalls they are not available separately. So I will shop for some used ones, before I have to cut mine off.

[NickP]

Did you ask them where or whom the parts come from?

[55 Rescue Dog]

Did you ask them where or whom the parts come from?
No, but he said they have had several requests for them, and have thought about selling them. I'll wait a few days, and call again to see if he will tell me the source. Practically every piece of sheet metal is available for these cars, except for this one that is actually produced somewhere.
8231

[NickP]

The other alternative, build custom units.

[BamaNomad]

The other alternative, build custom units.

I agree.. if I couldn't buy a decent 'repro' part, or find a good used unit, I don't think it would be too difficult to 'roll your own'...

[Rick_L]

Since they are gone, and they are ugly, and you have a nice smooth pretty firewall - seems like a great opportunity to fab up something that serves the purpose and is a bit better looking. Just a thought.

[55 Rescue Dog]

It's definitely got me thinking of a different design. I've been looking for a good reason to buy a couple of dimple hole dies for detail, lightening holes. Anyone ever seen something fabricated, and stronger too?

[Custer55]

I would just build your own since your not going for a stock restored look anyway. Something fully enclosed and smooth would look nice, and add the dimpled holes if you want to lighten it up and give it a bit more style. You can just weld a plate and nut on the inside so you can just use a bolt up through the frame from the bottom instead of the nut and bolt stock set up. Position wise I would just get the body mounted on your new frame first, then it would be easier to figure out what you need to build to fill in the gap.

[Rick_L]

Biggest thing is that a smooth piece would require bracing the firewall from the inside to have the same structural integrity. You'd still have a mount that was forward of the firewall unless you moved the frame brackets too - and that would require a bit of planning to avoid interference issues. But it can be done I'd think.

[Custer55]

Biggest thing is that a smooth piece would require bracing the firewall from the inside to have the same structural integrity. You'd still have a mount that was forward of the firewall unless you moved the frame brackets too - and that would require a bit of planning to avoid interference issues. But it can be done I'd think.

Yep, you would have make sure you weren't losing any strength or have it be in the way of anything else. That's why I would design it and mock it up with the body on the frame, then remove the body to finish all the needed welding. Could just be a boxed in version of the stock brace too just to make it look better.

[NickP]

It's definitely got me thinking of a different design. I've been looking for a good reason to buy a couple of dimple hole dies for detail, lightening holes. Anyone ever seen something fabricated, and stronger too?

So, I re-read this thread from the beginning and it dawned on me; you have another body at the body shop, right? Why not use the ones from it? Confused.................................;)

[55 Rescue Dog]

So, I re-read this thread from the beginning and it dawned on me; you have another body at the body shop, right? Why not use the ones from it? Confused.................................;)
I would, but I'm hoping to make it easier to sell after taking all the other small parts I need off of it. It would be a cheap $1800 start to a drag car as a roller, mostly needing a fiberglass front clip that show up cheap from time to time.
8237

[NickP]

I would, but I'm hoping to make it easier to sell after taking all the other small parts I need off of it. It would be a cheap $1800 start to a drag car as a roller, mostly needing a fiberglass front clip that show up cheap from time to time.
8237

Well, at least you have a pattern.

[NickP]

8248

Just saw this on FB

8249

[BamaNomad]

Those are neat, and should be a great example for RD to 'roll his own'. With that, or a similar design, in mind and measurements he can make from his other car, he should be able to *make* what he needs for his 'newer' '55...

[55 Rescue Dog]

Those braces look great, and similar to what I had in mind, boxing it all together.

[Rick_L]

That's probably the cleanest "boxed" cowl support I've ever seen. Someone did a nice job with design and execution.

[Bluegrass Trifive]

8248

Just saw this on FB

8249 I saw those earlier, He sure does nice work.

[Bluegrass Trifive]

Not sure what these are called, but can't seem to find if anyone makes them? It's the 2-piece firewall/floorboard front body mount brace. I don't really want to remove them from the parts car that would make it harder to sell when I'm done with it, unless they are expensive.
8229 Look up Thomas Sutton on Facebook, he will have them used for sure. PM me if you want his phone number.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Finally got a chance to get the trailer out from under the body, and back on the ground. The cement blocks were not too scary at that height, for a few minutes. Gave it several test shakes, and it was pretty stable, plus it cost me only $18 for the blocks. Now I need to figure out the best way to rig up my cherry picker to get the pallet out? I will need to come up with a good crossbeam set-up to lift from the hood mounts, and either the shock area, or rear. I will need to use it several times, so I'm trying to come up with something simple that works.
826282638264

[NickP]

Your lift, capacity and brand?

[55 Rescue Dog]

Your lift, capacity and brand?
It is an older Rotory 5000# cantilever lift I bought like 18 years ago for $600. Comes in pretty handy, although not easy to move, I can slide it wherever I need it. There are not too many street cars with a stronger chassis than my 2900 pound 81 Z/28.
826582668268

[55 Rescue Dog]

These 1/2 inch reinforced holes on top of the cowl look like factory lift points above the hood hinge, since they end up with rubber plugs in them. Looks the perfect place for eyebolts.
8267

[NickP]

These 1/2 inch reinforced holes on top of the cowl look like factory lift points above the hood hinge, since they end up with rubber plugs in them. Looks the perfect place for eyebolts.
8267
The hood hinge holes/threaded inserts seem to be resident and intact and with a simple 2x2x1/4 angle brkt and top hole for a hook & chain up to a spreader bar. I feel as though the Eye Bolt would distort or not do well.

8269

[BamaNomad]

I agree with NCW on that one; I would not use the holes on top of the cowl for fear of distorting the metal.. The attachment points recommended by NCW are better..

[Rick_L]

I think you could use a flat bar instead of angle there too. Depends on what you have.

Like the others I'd be worried about distortion in the area of the 1/2" holes if they were used.

[LEE T]

The hood henge bolt holes are easier to use and way stronger. That hole on top may have been an alignment hole for the front end.

[hurddawg]

Nice looking project. Looks like a steel for the price! I really like the smoothed out firewall.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Nice looking project. Looks like a steel for the price! I really like the smoothed out firewall.
Thanks. I have a long way to go. The body is great, but still has a few issues, and it is way better than my other one. The quarters are a little wavy where welded, and I wished it still had drip rails, but I'll deal with it. Making a lift crossbeam for it now to start for being able to incrementally move it up and down with a cherry picker, for rolling the chassis under it for a start so I can at least move it as needed. I plan to set it up to lift the chassis up to the body, instead of the easier way. Wish I a had a asymmetrical lift, but I won't. Buying another "distraction project" doesn't help either with my new 1950 fire truck with only 2370 miles, and not running, no brakes, but it's an amazing vehicle with history.
8380

[LEE T]

Thanks. I have a long way to go. Making a lift crossbeam for it now to start for being able to incrementally move it up and down with a cherry picker, for rolling the chassis under it for a start so I can at least move it as needed. I plan to set it up to lift the chassis up to the body, instead of the easier way.

I was looking at the Dick Olsen web site that Sid posted and noticed in his customer cars/ 57 nomad a body lift that you might want to check out. http://www.classicchevyshop.com/57-nomad

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/from7/Forum%20photos/1070ba68-5856-4f25-b405-bbdf3d9b3982_zpsumuii2eb.jpg~original

[NickP]

I was looking at the Dick Olsen web site that Sid posted and noticed in his customer cars/ 57 nomad a body lift that you might want to check out. http://www.classicchevyshop.com/57-nomad

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/from7/Forum%20photos/1070ba68-5856-4f25-b405-bbdf3d9b3982_zpsumuii2eb.jpg~original

Sadly, those are not a commercial unit. I built mine, takes down similar and, works well. Plans available for those that need it.

[55 Rescue Dog]

A 2 post lift would be ideal, but I managed to get the body off of the shipping pallet and sitting on the frame using a combination of an undercar lift, cement blocks, 4x4's, and my cherry picker. Made a crossbeam that can be used front/rear. Still need to get the bushings in place, but it's close. My 1950 fire truck is much closer to being on the road than the 55, so I've been working on that instead. Should be good to go as soon as I finish the brake job. Had to get the 55 as a roller, since my Camaro was trapped in the garage.
88178818881988208821

[TrifiveRichard]

Cool, making progress, good work!

[55 Rescue Dog]

Spent a couple hours this morning chasing body mount holes around trying to get them all lined up to take a bolt. You get 2 holes lined up, then 6 are off! Finally after a lot of shifting the body a little at a time in multiple directions, I finally got all the bolts in, and snugged down. I think only 1 bolt is in the center of the hole, and the rest are scattered one way or the other. Had to use 8 shims all together to get some load on all of the bushings before tightening down. Now I can continue with the next step of fabricating the front mount from the firewall to the frame.
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