TriChrome
03-06-2018, 11:22 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 7:34 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST. IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE THAT
HAS E-MAIL AND WOULD BENEFIT FROM BEING A LIST MEMBER, ASK THEM TO
JOIN. THE MORE LIST MEMBERS WE HAVE, THE MORE INFORMATION LIST
MEMBERS CAN SHARE WITH EACH OTHER.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
I ENCOURAGE ALL LIST MEMBERS TO INCLUDE THEIR CITY AND STATE WITH
THEIR POSTS. IF YOU ARE POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO
INCLUDE YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND THE PRICE. IT IS HELPFUL TO ALSO
INCLUDE WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: dave durchenwald, INTERNET:dandpdurch@webtv.net
Greetings 5-6-7 Chevy Enthusiasts. I would like to locate a pair of
Factory Air Dash Outlets for my 1956 Belair....Is anybody reproducing
these? Any used ones out there for sale? Please email Dave at
dandpdurch@webtv.net Thanks, Dave
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Nomadfive6@aol.com, INTERNET:Nomadfive6@aol.com
Hello to All, Thanks for the great list Bob.
I have a question. Can anybody out there tell me what was the last year
Chevrolet used front motor mounts on their V8 engines?
Thanks for all the good information on Tri Fives.
Philip Calhoun, Semmes, AL
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-------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Lisa 64ChevyGirl", INTERNET:my64heart@hotmail.com
Bob-that sounds kinda funny considering that it took them 9 months to
finish my car and then had to repaint it. It's been a year and 3 weeks and
it's still not perfect. Three very major problems with the first paint job
were that the passenger door was about 2 very obvious shades lighter than
the rest of the car and they didn't mention it to me. I noticed it in the
sunlight as did my brake repairman after I got it back. I found so many
other problems that they had to redo the whole car (their decision although
I was going to suggest it). The second major problem was a dinner plate
sized silver spot towards the rear. I have many many pictures of this that
I would be glad to show you if you ever should want to see them. I would
glady show anyone else who ever thought of taking their car there. I'm in
no way blaming you for recommending them. I saw Sharon Nixon, I believe
her
last name is... car and it looked pretty nice to me but I never saw the
condition it went in as. Unfortunately I was very disappointed with them.
I was put off for months and months and until I brought a male in with me,
they didn't take me seriously. I've had my car in twice since the second
repaint and there are still about 5 problems, the main one being that the
roof has bubbles and looks like it was never color sanded. I took it to a
cruise night and several people said that they would take them to court.
Fortunately, I'm not that kind of person but I would strongly discourage
you
or anyone else taking their car there. Another thing that was upsetting is
that they raised the price about $1,500 more than was agreed on in the
beginning and they didn't do any extra work. My car does look nice and I
do
get compliments all the time but once you look closely you'll see the
problems. They were nice people don't get me wrong but as far as business
men... they are not. If you'd like to see some pictures I would show you,
just let me know.
The third major problem with the first paint
job. A bird apparently decided to use my car for a bathroom and they
painted or cleared right over it and sent me home with it. I was told
numerous times it was finished and when I went there were a list of
problems
that they either didn't mention, acted like they didn't notice until I
pointed them out or they told me about and said they would fix later. I
have photos of the problems I'd LOVE to send you if you'd like to see.
Lisa
Editor's note. I am very sorry for the bad experience you had a Dale's
shop. I had
checked out their references and talked to owners of several cars they had
done. All
of the owners said they had done a good job for them and there cars looked
great.
However it appears to me that shop has taken a drastic turn for the worse.
I know Dale
had a serious illness some time ago and spends little time at the shop now.
After I got your e-mail
I went by their shop to see what was going on. The quality of their work
is now less than acceptable. I do not recommend their shop for any kind of
work now. I only wish I had known about this lack of quality sooner.
BOB
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:kyyx@voyager.net, INTERNET:kyyx@voyager.net
Just a comment for Bob Mcnulty's 350/350 combination swap. I had a 406V8
(small block) with a 350 Turbo transmission which replaced a 2 bbl. (late)
350/(early original) Powerglide setup that was in my car when I bought it.
In
replacing the combo I used the original front engine mounts which were
slightly
notched on one side to clear the 8" balancer on the 400 smallblock. I used
the
side to stock transmission location mounts at the rear of the block and I
purchased the rear cross member mount for the rear of the trans. This
combination really worked well in my car. What you also have to remember is
that with this combination you cannot use an HEI style distributor cap and
the
set of Hooker Competition 1 5/8" / 3" collector headers fit just fine with
the
stock manual steering setup. Another point to consider with this swap is
that a
short tailshafted 350 is shorter at the rear mount than the 400 short
tailshafted trans rear mount location. If you ever change from a 350 trans
to a
400 trans you will need to move the L-bracket mounts on the inside of the
frame
rearward.. The difference is approximately 6-7" and that is where future
planning may come in handy. I also purchased the tube type offset mount for
about $45 at the time and now that I am installing a 355V8/400 trans in my
car
I was able to turn the trans bracket around so the mounting pad faced
rearward
and I might be able to still use the original 350 L-frame brackets because
I
made them a bit longer by accident or dumb luck the first time. If you are
thinking of using the side mounts (available aftermarket where 55-57 parts
are
sold) on your engine at the front you will have to consider a block hugger
style header or a header that is made to fit as it moves the engine forward
1"
so that you can use an HEI distributor (another benefit). Also remember
that a
350 trans uses less horsepower to be efficient, has a taller 1st gear, and
when
properly setup will take up to approximately 450 hp and stay together. My
350
combination had a heavy duty sprag, extra clutch packs, shift kit, 2300
stall
converter, and other heavy duty parts. Although I sold the engine and 350
trans
together, I wish that I still had the 350 trans back for my new 355 V8
combination. The 400 is definitely a stronger unit and will take more
punishment and is a must for big block use. Above all do the research
before
you spend the wild buck because experience sometimes hurts! Have fun and
email
me if you find out some more info. Have fun!
Dwight Holien
My new 55 Chevy webpage is at: http://www.geocities.com/kyyx/
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Phil10855@aol.com, INTERNET:Phil10855@aol.com
To Bob McNulty,
I highly recommend that you use a 700R4 trans instead, it's an overdrive
trans
that will give you better performance all around. You don't really have to
side mount the engine, but you will have to add a rear trans mount. There
are
kits available to add the necessary bolt in mounts and the trans comes in
kit
form from a number of different vendors for around $1500.
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---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com, INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com
<< From: "Dan", INTERNET:d55chevy@worldnet.att.net
The question whether a 57 body would fit on a 90 Caprice chassis.
The 5/6/7 fiberglass body spec sheets indicates that they will fit
either on a 5/6/7 original chassis or install on the 77-90 full size Chevy
Impala "B" chassis. Hope this helps. Dan >>
Maybe the Fiberglass Built Body will fit right on because it is made to
fit
both & bolt up to either chassis. I will look further into this issue & let
you know
how it works out. I have a friend who is putting a 57 2 dr hard top shell
onto a 75 full size Pontiac Chassis which is the same as the Chevy Chassis.
James ..... Chevy156@aol.com
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-----------------------------
To: "Bob Ford", BOB_FORD
From: "Charlie", INTERNET:chas108@3rdm.net
Hey folks!
Interesting that Sandy Pierce should be wondering about what possessed GM
to use hardened valve seats starting in 1971, on this, the 30th anniversary
of Earth Day. Here's the tie-in: GM was using the mood of the times to
market their cars. Anybody remember the first Earth Day? All of a sudden,
saving the planet was cool, and the supercars of the late 60's were
yesterday's news. Small cars became the rage: the Vega and Ford's Pinto
both debuted with much fanfare in the fall of 1970...Chrysler imported a
couple cars and rebadged them as Plymouth and Dodge's small cars
(Omni/Horizon wouldn't debut until 1978)...and who (Hello Jerry Casper!)
could forget the Gremlin? Chevy's advertising campaign in 1971 went from
"Putting you first...keeps us first" to "You've changed...we've changed".
Amidst all this concern about what lead was doing to our bodies and the
environment, GM lowered compression ratios across-the-board for '71. It
became a sales point in '71 that you could run any GM car on low-lead or
no-lead gasoline. The other car companies were pretty much right in line,
running lowered compression from '71 on. Indeed, they were anticipating
1975 and the advent of catalytic converters. However...one other important
change took place, which accounts more than low compression, for 1971
horsepower ratings being significantly lower than 1970's. It was in the
1971 model year that car companies all began to use "net" horsepower
ratings...with the accessories hooked up and the engine running through
factory exhaust with mufflers. The "real-world" changes automatically
brought horsepower ratings way down.
All that said...on this, the 30th anniversary of Earth Day, I think it's
important to recall the advancements in technology over the past 30 years.
Today's cars are some 99% cleaner than 40 years ago, and advancements in
gasoline and oil technology mean that even 40 year old cars run cleaner
today than back then. Yes, I know today's gasolines are unsuitable for some
old cars...but my point is this: There were many doomsday predictions made
in 1970 that never came true. There are such predictions being made today,
especially in regards to "global warming". Radical environmentalists, in
concert with the UN, desperately want to see the Earth Charter and Kyoto
Protocols implemented, and so we'll be seeing a lot about global warming on
TV and in our papers. You can find a scientific refutation of global
warming at www.globalwarming.org or www.junkscience.com . You'll read
there how scientific data was distorted to support the UN's hypotheses! And
this is why you, dear friend, need to be concerned: If either the Kyoto
Protocol of Earth Charter become U.S. law, we can kiss our hobby goodbye,
along with our standard of living! I've got a '57 210 Handyman and a '93
LT-1/TH700 R-4, and I want to be able to put them together and drive the
car of my dreams, without some bureaucrat telling me I can't, especially
due to a non-existent problem!! Please become educated, and write to your
elected officials. Let them know how you feel! It does work!! And Happy
Easter!
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---------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@home.com
Hi Bob,
Nearing 61 years on this planet I can truthfully say that the worst
thing about growing older is losing friends and family. I'm referring to
Joyce Smith's and Fred Vail's letters. One thing that I've always tried
to do is let anyone close to me know how I feel. I tell them I love
them. Sometimes it may make a male friend uncomfortable, but if I die
tonight he'll know that I cared. I think that's the best thing you can
do-let your friends know that you care.
Now on to another reason for this message. A good friend has a 265
w/3speed trans that she's looking to sell for a reasonable price. She
has had the set-up for a while and thinks it came out of a '56 pick-up.
She's in the Wash., DC area and can be reached at PLK@linowes-law.com
I'll say this once more, Bob. Thanks for this forum! Wild Bill
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--------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: tony dogg, INTERNET:tonydoggydog@yahoo.com
hi guys, im looking for a 1955 chevy 2 door hardtop bel air, if you have
one or , know of one please email me at tonydoggydog@yahoo.com, i am
located in Pennsylvania. thanx
tony
Editor's note. Tony, I pulled the following 55 2 door hard tops from
Trader Online.
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, this is for glass only
for a 2 door hardtop. you get a full set of six
pieces. this is for the wing window, door glass,
and the quarter glass. you get 4 colors to
choose from. this is just the glass by itself.
this is also for the 56 and 57 2 door hardtop.
the price is 250 plus shipping. color: clear
$250.00, (209) 604-0964
Location: Turlock, CA
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2DR HARDTOP/DOUBLE SHARP
EXAMPLE OF A CLASSIC-LOOKS STOCK EXCEPT FOR
WHEELS AND DRIVE TRAIN-WILL CONSIDER POSSIBLE
TRADE FOR STOCK MUSCLE/STREETROD OR LARGE LATE
MODEL HARLEY-904-571-1042 color: GYPSY
RED/SHORELINE BEIGE $21,500.00, (904) 272-8450
Location: Orange Park, FL
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2 door hardtop, 38000
actual miles, auto, 235 cubic inch, fisrt $10900
YESTERYEAR AUTO (918)251-9629 TULSA
Location: Tulsa, OK
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2 door, hardtop, 38000
actual miles, 225 cubic inch in, 6 cylinder,
auto, powerglide trans, black, WHITE top, red
interior, beautiful CAR, first $12900 YESTERYEAR
AUTO (918)251-9629 TULSA
Location: Tulsa, OK
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2 dr., hardtop, stored
inside since 1979, 350, 4-speed, straight,
complete, bench seats, perfect chrome, you pick
color, $8250 or best offer, 210-651-6767
Location: San Antonio, TX
1955 CHEVROLET, BEL AIR, original interior,
2-door hardtop, AMERICAN Mag Wheels 210, 400
Engine, headers, Edelbrock, carburetor, intake
with headers, $7500 +(Hapeville) 404-753-3430
Location: Atlanta, GA
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-------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Owens, INTERNET:bowens@midsouth.rr.com
Hey Bob,
Keep up the good work.
Some time ago there was a website listed to research engine stamping
codes. I seem to have misplaced my address. Could anyone refresh my
memory?
Thanks,
Bill Owens
Bartlett, Tn. 38134
bowens@midsouth.rr.com
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----
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com, INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com
Great job, BOB
The problem with the power steering pulling to one side or the other , can
usually be fixed by turning the adjustment screw under the metal cap on the
end of the slave cylinder. More often than not, when people rebuild the P S
unit the adjuster doesn't` get set just right. I prefer to jack the front
up
to clear the tires and start turning it SLOWLY..... in or out until it
stops
trying to turn. Then you can drive it and readjust if needed. P.S. I had a
corvette with the same type system, and I reached in the window to start
the
engine and it pulled so hard to the right it almost broke my wrist, Thanks
for everyone`s help on this fine service. Sincerely, Bob Fowler Texas
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-----------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Rick Oster", INTERNET:BelAir57@megsinet.net
The Valve is adjustable, so you must unhook the slave cylinder from the
frame bracket and adjust the nut that is under the tin cup on the end of
the
control valve. With the engine running turn the nut clockwise until the
slave cyl rod just starts to move, then make a reference with your tool and
turn it counterclockwise until the slave cyl rod begins to move in the
opposite direction, again reference your tool and turn the nut to the
center
of your references. This is called "Balancing the Valve". This is covered
in
the shop manual.
I have also seen cases of people trying to add P/S to a NON P/S car and not
change the Pitman Arm and get similar symptoms, The Pitman and Idler Arms
in
addition to the left Tie Rod Ends are different!
>>Bob,
Keep up the good work. I have just finished rebuilding my 55 Sport Coupe
and am having trouble with the stock power steering. When the motor is
running the wheels turn to the right by themselves and it is hard to hold
the steering wheel to stop the wheels turning. I have bleed the system but
it makes no difference. Can anyone offer any advise. Thank you
Editor's note. It sounds like you have a stuck valve somewhere in the
system.
BOB<<
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:retrospector@bigfoot.com, INTERNET:retrospector@bigfoot.com
Bob,
Please list as you see fit.
For sale: Long blocks (1) 235 6 cyl engine & (2) 265 8 cyl engine. Have
not been run in years, probably need rebuilding. Asking $300/obo.
Also, have a manual 3 speed transmission from a 55 chevy.
I'm located near Ventura, Calif. Kevin (805)525-5717
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-----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "mark and angie cooley", INTERNET:cooley@cddn.com
bob,
i am looking for a good straight solid 1955 2 door to build or complete. no
junk wanted. partial restores are okay with me. i live in union city tenn
901.885.3145. i really need a car!
thanks,
mark cooley
Editor's note. Mark, check out the list above from Trader Online.
BOB
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Michael Novins", INTERNET:mike@calwest-radiators.com
Dear Bob,
Thanks for stopping by my booth last week at the pomona swap meet, it was
nice meeting you. This is Mike at Cal West
Auto Air & Radiators.Please let all our club people know , that our 2000
product catalog is out and sent to them for
FREE. Just go to our web site at wwwcalwest-radiators.com. On April 30, th.
Cal West will be at the 18 th. annual car show presented by the CLASSIC
CHEVYS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA . For information call (818) 895-5738.
Sincerely,
MIke Novins
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--------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Zzzshoebox@aol.com, INTERNET:Zzzshoebox@aol.com
2" Dropped Spindles w/ power brakes
Could someone recommend a company with such a component that is good for a
55
chevy
Zzzshoebox@aol.com
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-------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "kenneth weinstein", INTERNET:kmw57@hotmail.com
parts for sale:
seatcovers-aftermarket patterns. vinyl mostly striped or plaid $85./car
1957 rear bumperguards(nonwagon)rechromed 2/$125 or trade for rechromed
wagon rearguards; 1957 p.b. radio needs work $50; 1957 right rear 1st gen
rechromed bumper end $135
ken weinstein kmw57@hotmail.com
nites buffalo, n.y. 14051 716-689-6888
__________________________________________________ ______________________
To: [unknown], INTERNET:g.robinson@grcqs.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net, INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net
Graeme,
I saw your posting on Bob Fod's Chevy List concerning your problem with
the original power steering.
The control valve is causing your car to steering in one direction. The
valve has been assembled incorrectly or the nut on the relay rod has
come loose. Or there are non-OEM (homemade) parts in the valve that are
not to spec.
Diagrams of the valve are found in the Shop Manual (page 9-20 for the
adaptor assembly and page 9-25 for the valve body). Because the spool is
mechanically centered (not pressure-centered), assembling the parts out
of order will put the spool in the wrong position. So it will be
constantly shunting fluid to the cylinder, causing it to activate.
Also, some VERY EARLY 55 valves are "adjustable"; that is, you CAN
tighten the relay nut past the point that would center the spool because
the threads on the relay were cut further down. So if you know you
assembed the valve correctly with correct parts, and you tightened the
nut hand tight, try backing off the nut a bit and see if that changes
it.
Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
Steve Pratt
Authentic Auto
---------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: Kirk Jewell, INTERNET:KJEWELL@Oklahoman.com
Thanks Bob.
Does a frame-off '56 post Bel Air with original appearance paint (red and
white) and interior (black and white), 383 stroker w/ 400 Turbo, and Boyd
wheels sound like a "good deal" at $17,500? Supposed to be a 60,000+
original mile car that was rebuilt about 4 years ago. All original style
restoration except for motor and trans and front disc brakes. Original
core support, etc. and was originally a V-8 car (265?). Cost $1,000 to
have
a/c put in it?
Thanks for you input.
Kirk
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----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:BranonB@aol.com, INTERNET:BranonB@aol.com
Rotary Club of Melrose Mass, is having a car show May 21st at the high
school
in Melrose Mass, on the Lynn Fells Pkwy. It is the first of a annual show.
Brian Branon branonb@aol.com.
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 7:34 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST. IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE THAT
HAS E-MAIL AND WOULD BENEFIT FROM BEING A LIST MEMBER, ASK THEM TO
JOIN. THE MORE LIST MEMBERS WE HAVE, THE MORE INFORMATION LIST
MEMBERS CAN SHARE WITH EACH OTHER.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
I ENCOURAGE ALL LIST MEMBERS TO INCLUDE THEIR CITY AND STATE WITH
THEIR POSTS. IF YOU ARE POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO
INCLUDE YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND THE PRICE. IT IS HELPFUL TO ALSO
INCLUDE WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: dave durchenwald, INTERNET:dandpdurch@webtv.net
Greetings 5-6-7 Chevy Enthusiasts. I would like to locate a pair of
Factory Air Dash Outlets for my 1956 Belair....Is anybody reproducing
these? Any used ones out there for sale? Please email Dave at
dandpdurch@webtv.net Thanks, Dave
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Nomadfive6@aol.com, INTERNET:Nomadfive6@aol.com
Hello to All, Thanks for the great list Bob.
I have a question. Can anybody out there tell me what was the last year
Chevrolet used front motor mounts on their V8 engines?
Thanks for all the good information on Tri Fives.
Philip Calhoun, Semmes, AL
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Lisa 64ChevyGirl", INTERNET:my64heart@hotmail.com
Bob-that sounds kinda funny considering that it took them 9 months to
finish my car and then had to repaint it. It's been a year and 3 weeks and
it's still not perfect. Three very major problems with the first paint job
were that the passenger door was about 2 very obvious shades lighter than
the rest of the car and they didn't mention it to me. I noticed it in the
sunlight as did my brake repairman after I got it back. I found so many
other problems that they had to redo the whole car (their decision although
I was going to suggest it). The second major problem was a dinner plate
sized silver spot towards the rear. I have many many pictures of this that
I would be glad to show you if you ever should want to see them. I would
glady show anyone else who ever thought of taking their car there. I'm in
no way blaming you for recommending them. I saw Sharon Nixon, I believe
her
last name is... car and it looked pretty nice to me but I never saw the
condition it went in as. Unfortunately I was very disappointed with them.
I was put off for months and months and until I brought a male in with me,
they didn't take me seriously. I've had my car in twice since the second
repaint and there are still about 5 problems, the main one being that the
roof has bubbles and looks like it was never color sanded. I took it to a
cruise night and several people said that they would take them to court.
Fortunately, I'm not that kind of person but I would strongly discourage
you
or anyone else taking their car there. Another thing that was upsetting is
that they raised the price about $1,500 more than was agreed on in the
beginning and they didn't do any extra work. My car does look nice and I
do
get compliments all the time but once you look closely you'll see the
problems. They were nice people don't get me wrong but as far as business
men... they are not. If you'd like to see some pictures I would show you,
just let me know.
The third major problem with the first paint
job. A bird apparently decided to use my car for a bathroom and they
painted or cleared right over it and sent me home with it. I was told
numerous times it was finished and when I went there were a list of
problems
that they either didn't mention, acted like they didn't notice until I
pointed them out or they told me about and said they would fix later. I
have photos of the problems I'd LOVE to send you if you'd like to see.
Lisa
Editor's note. I am very sorry for the bad experience you had a Dale's
shop. I had
checked out their references and talked to owners of several cars they had
done. All
of the owners said they had done a good job for them and there cars looked
great.
However it appears to me that shop has taken a drastic turn for the worse.
I know Dale
had a serious illness some time ago and spends little time at the shop now.
After I got your e-mail
I went by their shop to see what was going on. The quality of their work
is now less than acceptable. I do not recommend their shop for any kind of
work now. I only wish I had known about this lack of quality sooner.
BOB
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:kyyx@voyager.net, INTERNET:kyyx@voyager.net
Just a comment for Bob Mcnulty's 350/350 combination swap. I had a 406V8
(small block) with a 350 Turbo transmission which replaced a 2 bbl. (late)
350/(early original) Powerglide setup that was in my car when I bought it.
In
replacing the combo I used the original front engine mounts which were
slightly
notched on one side to clear the 8" balancer on the 400 smallblock. I used
the
side to stock transmission location mounts at the rear of the block and I
purchased the rear cross member mount for the rear of the trans. This
combination really worked well in my car. What you also have to remember is
that with this combination you cannot use an HEI style distributor cap and
the
set of Hooker Competition 1 5/8" / 3" collector headers fit just fine with
the
stock manual steering setup. Another point to consider with this swap is
that a
short tailshafted 350 is shorter at the rear mount than the 400 short
tailshafted trans rear mount location. If you ever change from a 350 trans
to a
400 trans you will need to move the L-bracket mounts on the inside of the
frame
rearward.. The difference is approximately 6-7" and that is where future
planning may come in handy. I also purchased the tube type offset mount for
about $45 at the time and now that I am installing a 355V8/400 trans in my
car
I was able to turn the trans bracket around so the mounting pad faced
rearward
and I might be able to still use the original 350 L-frame brackets because
I
made them a bit longer by accident or dumb luck the first time. If you are
thinking of using the side mounts (available aftermarket where 55-57 parts
are
sold) on your engine at the front you will have to consider a block hugger
style header or a header that is made to fit as it moves the engine forward
1"
so that you can use an HEI distributor (another benefit). Also remember
that a
350 trans uses less horsepower to be efficient, has a taller 1st gear, and
when
properly setup will take up to approximately 450 hp and stay together. My
350
combination had a heavy duty sprag, extra clutch packs, shift kit, 2300
stall
converter, and other heavy duty parts. Although I sold the engine and 350
trans
together, I wish that I still had the 350 trans back for my new 355 V8
combination. The 400 is definitely a stronger unit and will take more
punishment and is a must for big block use. Above all do the research
before
you spend the wild buck because experience sometimes hurts! Have fun and
me if you find out some more info. Have fun!
Dwight Holien
My new 55 Chevy webpage is at: http://www.geocities.com/kyyx/
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Phil10855@aol.com, INTERNET:Phil10855@aol.com
To Bob McNulty,
I highly recommend that you use a 700R4 trans instead, it's an overdrive
trans
that will give you better performance all around. You don't really have to
side mount the engine, but you will have to add a rear trans mount. There
are
kits available to add the necessary bolt in mounts and the trans comes in
kit
form from a number of different vendors for around $1500.
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---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com, INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com
<< From: "Dan", INTERNET:d55chevy@worldnet.att.net
The question whether a 57 body would fit on a 90 Caprice chassis.
The 5/6/7 fiberglass body spec sheets indicates that they will fit
either on a 5/6/7 original chassis or install on the 77-90 full size Chevy
Impala "B" chassis. Hope this helps. Dan >>
Maybe the Fiberglass Built Body will fit right on because it is made to
fit
both & bolt up to either chassis. I will look further into this issue & let
you know
how it works out. I have a friend who is putting a 57 2 dr hard top shell
onto a 75 full size Pontiac Chassis which is the same as the Chevy Chassis.
James ..... Chevy156@aol.com
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-----------------------------
To: "Bob Ford", BOB_FORD
From: "Charlie", INTERNET:chas108@3rdm.net
Hey folks!
Interesting that Sandy Pierce should be wondering about what possessed GM
to use hardened valve seats starting in 1971, on this, the 30th anniversary
of Earth Day. Here's the tie-in: GM was using the mood of the times to
market their cars. Anybody remember the first Earth Day? All of a sudden,
saving the planet was cool, and the supercars of the late 60's were
yesterday's news. Small cars became the rage: the Vega and Ford's Pinto
both debuted with much fanfare in the fall of 1970...Chrysler imported a
couple cars and rebadged them as Plymouth and Dodge's small cars
(Omni/Horizon wouldn't debut until 1978)...and who (Hello Jerry Casper!)
could forget the Gremlin? Chevy's advertising campaign in 1971 went from
"Putting you first...keeps us first" to "You've changed...we've changed".
Amidst all this concern about what lead was doing to our bodies and the
environment, GM lowered compression ratios across-the-board for '71. It
became a sales point in '71 that you could run any GM car on low-lead or
no-lead gasoline. The other car companies were pretty much right in line,
running lowered compression from '71 on. Indeed, they were anticipating
1975 and the advent of catalytic converters. However...one other important
change took place, which accounts more than low compression, for 1971
horsepower ratings being significantly lower than 1970's. It was in the
1971 model year that car companies all began to use "net" horsepower
ratings...with the accessories hooked up and the engine running through
factory exhaust with mufflers. The "real-world" changes automatically
brought horsepower ratings way down.
All that said...on this, the 30th anniversary of Earth Day, I think it's
important to recall the advancements in technology over the past 30 years.
Today's cars are some 99% cleaner than 40 years ago, and advancements in
gasoline and oil technology mean that even 40 year old cars run cleaner
today than back then. Yes, I know today's gasolines are unsuitable for some
old cars...but my point is this: There were many doomsday predictions made
in 1970 that never came true. There are such predictions being made today,
especially in regards to "global warming". Radical environmentalists, in
concert with the UN, desperately want to see the Earth Charter and Kyoto
Protocols implemented, and so we'll be seeing a lot about global warming on
TV and in our papers. You can find a scientific refutation of global
warming at www.globalwarming.org or www.junkscience.com . You'll read
there how scientific data was distorted to support the UN's hypotheses! And
this is why you, dear friend, need to be concerned: If either the Kyoto
Protocol of Earth Charter become U.S. law, we can kiss our hobby goodbye,
along with our standard of living! I've got a '57 210 Handyman and a '93
LT-1/TH700 R-4, and I want to be able to put them together and drive the
car of my dreams, without some bureaucrat telling me I can't, especially
due to a non-existent problem!! Please become educated, and write to your
elected officials. Let them know how you feel! It does work!! And Happy
Easter!
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---------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@home.com
Hi Bob,
Nearing 61 years on this planet I can truthfully say that the worst
thing about growing older is losing friends and family. I'm referring to
Joyce Smith's and Fred Vail's letters. One thing that I've always tried
to do is let anyone close to me know how I feel. I tell them I love
them. Sometimes it may make a male friend uncomfortable, but if I die
tonight he'll know that I cared. I think that's the best thing you can
do-let your friends know that you care.
Now on to another reason for this message. A good friend has a 265
w/3speed trans that she's looking to sell for a reasonable price. She
has had the set-up for a while and thinks it came out of a '56 pick-up.
She's in the Wash., DC area and can be reached at PLK@linowes-law.com
I'll say this once more, Bob. Thanks for this forum! Wild Bill
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--------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: tony dogg, INTERNET:tonydoggydog@yahoo.com
hi guys, im looking for a 1955 chevy 2 door hardtop bel air, if you have
one or , know of one please email me at tonydoggydog@yahoo.com, i am
located in Pennsylvania. thanx
tony
Editor's note. Tony, I pulled the following 55 2 door hard tops from
Trader Online.
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, this is for glass only
for a 2 door hardtop. you get a full set of six
pieces. this is for the wing window, door glass,
and the quarter glass. you get 4 colors to
choose from. this is just the glass by itself.
this is also for the 56 and 57 2 door hardtop.
the price is 250 plus shipping. color: clear
$250.00, (209) 604-0964
Location: Turlock, CA
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2DR HARDTOP/DOUBLE SHARP
EXAMPLE OF A CLASSIC-LOOKS STOCK EXCEPT FOR
WHEELS AND DRIVE TRAIN-WILL CONSIDER POSSIBLE
TRADE FOR STOCK MUSCLE/STREETROD OR LARGE LATE
MODEL HARLEY-904-571-1042 color: GYPSY
RED/SHORELINE BEIGE $21,500.00, (904) 272-8450
Location: Orange Park, FL
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2 door hardtop, 38000
actual miles, auto, 235 cubic inch, fisrt $10900
YESTERYEAR AUTO (918)251-9629 TULSA
Location: Tulsa, OK
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2 door, hardtop, 38000
actual miles, 225 cubic inch in, 6 cylinder,
auto, powerglide trans, black, WHITE top, red
interior, beautiful CAR, first $12900 YESTERYEAR
AUTO (918)251-9629 TULSA
Location: Tulsa, OK
1955 CHEVROLET BEL AIR, 2 dr., hardtop, stored
inside since 1979, 350, 4-speed, straight,
complete, bench seats, perfect chrome, you pick
color, $8250 or best offer, 210-651-6767
Location: San Antonio, TX
1955 CHEVROLET, BEL AIR, original interior,
2-door hardtop, AMERICAN Mag Wheels 210, 400
Engine, headers, Edelbrock, carburetor, intake
with headers, $7500 +(Hapeville) 404-753-3430
Location: Atlanta, GA
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-------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Owens, INTERNET:bowens@midsouth.rr.com
Hey Bob,
Keep up the good work.
Some time ago there was a website listed to research engine stamping
codes. I seem to have misplaced my address. Could anyone refresh my
memory?
Thanks,
Bill Owens
Bartlett, Tn. 38134
bowens@midsouth.rr.com
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----
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com, INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com
Great job, BOB
The problem with the power steering pulling to one side or the other , can
usually be fixed by turning the adjustment screw under the metal cap on the
end of the slave cylinder. More often than not, when people rebuild the P S
unit the adjuster doesn't` get set just right. I prefer to jack the front
up
to clear the tires and start turning it SLOWLY..... in or out until it
stops
trying to turn. Then you can drive it and readjust if needed. P.S. I had a
corvette with the same type system, and I reached in the window to start
the
engine and it pulled so hard to the right it almost broke my wrist, Thanks
for everyone`s help on this fine service. Sincerely, Bob Fowler Texas
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Rick Oster", INTERNET:BelAir57@megsinet.net
The Valve is adjustable, so you must unhook the slave cylinder from the
frame bracket and adjust the nut that is under the tin cup on the end of
the
control valve. With the engine running turn the nut clockwise until the
slave cyl rod just starts to move, then make a reference with your tool and
turn it counterclockwise until the slave cyl rod begins to move in the
opposite direction, again reference your tool and turn the nut to the
center
of your references. This is called "Balancing the Valve". This is covered
in
the shop manual.
I have also seen cases of people trying to add P/S to a NON P/S car and not
change the Pitman Arm and get similar symptoms, The Pitman and Idler Arms
in
addition to the left Tie Rod Ends are different!
>>Bob,
Keep up the good work. I have just finished rebuilding my 55 Sport Coupe
and am having trouble with the stock power steering. When the motor is
running the wheels turn to the right by themselves and it is hard to hold
the steering wheel to stop the wheels turning. I have bleed the system but
it makes no difference. Can anyone offer any advise. Thank you
Editor's note. It sounds like you have a stuck valve somewhere in the
system.
BOB<<
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:retrospector@bigfoot.com, INTERNET:retrospector@bigfoot.com
Bob,
Please list as you see fit.
For sale: Long blocks (1) 235 6 cyl engine & (2) 265 8 cyl engine. Have
not been run in years, probably need rebuilding. Asking $300/obo.
Also, have a manual 3 speed transmission from a 55 chevy.
I'm located near Ventura, Calif. Kevin (805)525-5717
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-----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "mark and angie cooley", INTERNET:cooley@cddn.com
bob,
i am looking for a good straight solid 1955 2 door to build or complete. no
junk wanted. partial restores are okay with me. i live in union city tenn
901.885.3145. i really need a car!
thanks,
mark cooley
Editor's note. Mark, check out the list above from Trader Online.
BOB
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Michael Novins", INTERNET:mike@calwest-radiators.com
Dear Bob,
Thanks for stopping by my booth last week at the pomona swap meet, it was
nice meeting you. This is Mike at Cal West
Auto Air & Radiators.Please let all our club people know , that our 2000
product catalog is out and sent to them for
FREE. Just go to our web site at wwwcalwest-radiators.com. On April 30, th.
Cal West will be at the 18 th. annual car show presented by the CLASSIC
CHEVYS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA . For information call (818) 895-5738.
Sincerely,
MIke Novins
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--------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Zzzshoebox@aol.com, INTERNET:Zzzshoebox@aol.com
2" Dropped Spindles w/ power brakes
Could someone recommend a company with such a component that is good for a
55
chevy
Zzzshoebox@aol.com
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "kenneth weinstein", INTERNET:kmw57@hotmail.com
parts for sale:
seatcovers-aftermarket patterns. vinyl mostly striped or plaid $85./car
1957 rear bumperguards(nonwagon)rechromed 2/$125 or trade for rechromed
wagon rearguards; 1957 p.b. radio needs work $50; 1957 right rear 1st gen
rechromed bumper end $135
ken weinstein kmw57@hotmail.com
nites buffalo, n.y. 14051 716-689-6888
__________________________________________________ ______________________
To: [unknown], INTERNET:g.robinson@grcqs.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net, INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net
Graeme,
I saw your posting on Bob Fod's Chevy List concerning your problem with
the original power steering.
The control valve is causing your car to steering in one direction. The
valve has been assembled incorrectly or the nut on the relay rod has
come loose. Or there are non-OEM (homemade) parts in the valve that are
not to spec.
Diagrams of the valve are found in the Shop Manual (page 9-20 for the
adaptor assembly and page 9-25 for the valve body). Because the spool is
mechanically centered (not pressure-centered), assembling the parts out
of order will put the spool in the wrong position. So it will be
constantly shunting fluid to the cylinder, causing it to activate.
Also, some VERY EARLY 55 valves are "adjustable"; that is, you CAN
tighten the relay nut past the point that would center the spool because
the threads on the relay were cut further down. So if you know you
assembed the valve correctly with correct parts, and you tightened the
nut hand tight, try backing off the nut a bit and see if that changes
it.
Feel free to email me if you have any questions.
Steve Pratt
Authentic Auto
---------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: Kirk Jewell, INTERNET:KJEWELL@Oklahoman.com
Thanks Bob.
Does a frame-off '56 post Bel Air with original appearance paint (red and
white) and interior (black and white), 383 stroker w/ 400 Turbo, and Boyd
wheels sound like a "good deal" at $17,500? Supposed to be a 60,000+
original mile car that was rebuilt about 4 years ago. All original style
restoration except for motor and trans and front disc brakes. Original
core support, etc. and was originally a V-8 car (265?). Cost $1,000 to
have
a/c put in it?
Thanks for you input.
Kirk
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:BranonB@aol.com, INTERNET:BranonB@aol.com
Rotary Club of Melrose Mass, is having a car show May 21st at the high
school
in Melrose Mass, on the Lynn Fells Pkwy. It is the first of a annual show.
Brian Branon branonb@aol.com.
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY