TriChrome
03-06-2018, 11:23 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 7:37 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST. IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE THAT
HAS E-MAIL AND WOULD BENEFIT FROM BEING A LIST MEMBER, ASK THEM TO
JOIN. THE MORE LIST MEMBERS WE HAVE, THE MORE INFORMATION LIST
MEMBERS CAN SHARE WITH EACH OTHER.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
I ENCOURAGE ALL LIST MEMBERS TO INCLUDE THEIR CITY AND STATE WITH
THEIR POSTS. IF YOU ARE POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO
INCLUDE YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND THE PRICE. IT IS HELPFUL TO ALSO
INCLUDE WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
55-57 USED PARTS FOR SALE---> '56 6cyl radiator support $45, '55 210 4dr
wagon cowl tag, excellent $10, 4dr sedan small quarter window interior
garnish moldings $5ea, complete (with frame bracket) original '55 shackle
assemblies $25pr, NOS '55-56 150 horn cap $70, '55 splash pan
reinforcement
$5, 3speed 2nd&3rd gear linkage swivel + lower rod $20, 56, 57 150
windshield lower corner stainless moldings $25ea, middle long floor brace;
new ends solid welded in $100, 6cyl block side cover $10, station wagon
liftgate stainless trim $20ea, 4dr sedan headliner side retainers
(sawteeth)
$20set, '57 instrument cluster housing; stripped and ready for paint;
includes nice set of chrome thimbles, temp and fuel gauges, mint fuel gauge
lens and some other pieces $25. I have much more than listed here. Email
me
for the list. I'm located in eastern PA.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
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-------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MATH4911@aol.com, INTERNET:MATH4911@aol.com
Bob
I thought no one in the world knew about the 54 Plymouth Hy Drive except
me.
The answer to your trivia question about changing engine oil is 2 1/2
gallons of oil were
needed to do an oil change. This is because when you changed engine oil,
you also changed
the oil in the converter.
Here is some 50's trivia for you. My son loves the reruns of the Andy
Griffith Show. He thinks he has seen every show. When I ask him if he
has seen the ones in color, he tells me there were none in color.
They were all black and white. I admit my 60 year old memory is bad, but I
think I remember shows in color. Does any one know for sure?
Jim Mathews
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--------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Wayne Hawk", INTERNET:repoman@enter.net
LOOKING & NEED BAD, A ELECTRIC WIPER MOTOR
FOR MY 57' CHEVY. IF YOU WOULD HAVE ONE OR CAN REEFER ME TO WHERE I CAN
PURCHASE ONE, I THANK YOU IN ADVANCED. WAYNE
Editor's note. Call 503-667-4329. That is where I got mine.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "kenneth weinstein", INTERNET:kmw57@hotmail.com
please list me in your service.thank you
ken weinstein
44 valleybrook ln.
e.amherst, n.y. 14051
nites 716-689-6888
email= kmw57@hotmail.com
parts for sale:
1940-1980 seatcovers-aftermarket patterns. vinyl mostly striped or plaid
for
most cars. $85./car
1957 rear bumperguards(nonwagon)rechromed 2/$125 or trade for rechromed
wagon rearguards; 1957 p.b. radio needs work $50; 1957 right rear 1st
generation rechromed bumper end $135
car wanted :1955-62 chevy driveable and no rust ever. no big money cars.
my
wife won't let me remortgage my house.
parts wanted 1957 and 1964 chevy nos chrome.
ken weinstein
email= kmw57@hotmail.com
ken weinstein kmw57@hotmail.com
nites buffalo, n.y. 14051 716-689-6888
__________________________________________________ ______________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Jeff Wilson, INTERNET:jwilson@unctv.org
Hi all- I just purchased a newly rebuilt zero-miles
never-been-run 235 inline six motor for my 57 wagon.
It should go in no problem, there's a tired old 235
in there right now.
What hints/ tips/ techniques should I use breaking in
a newly rebuilt engine?
CJ Wilson
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu, INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu
I must be crazy! The other day I went out to my uncles farm to take the
front
hubs off of a wrecked 63 impala to swap on to my '56 to get rid of those
nasty
ball bearings. The impala has been sitting for a long time with no wheels
and
was sunk into the dirt half way up the break drums. The car is located in
a row
of trees along the feed lot. While jacking up the car I realized I was
getting
shocked. After about 10 good jolts of juice I realized I had jacked the
car up
far enough so it was touching an electric fence. After wedging a 2X4
between
the fence and car I began to try to remove the front break drums to get at
the
hubs. Well, the drums were pretty much welded to the spindles after being
buried for so long. I finally got the drums off by hitting them about a
thousand times with a ball pein hammer and actually breaking them into
pieces.
To my surprise the hubs were in good shape. New bearings and seals and I'm
back
on the road!
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------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "David Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com
Question for list members.
I've been told by a questionable source that the trunk lid of tri-5's are
interchangeable. I know the trim holes are different between the years,
but
are there other differences? Also, are there any differences between
models
within the same year?
Thanks,
Dave
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--------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Kenneth L Ogle", INTERNET:kenneth.ogle@gte.net
Bob, 'Mike I' asked about a 400 small block engine code, 10222 CLK. My
book shows 'CLK' to be a 1973 350/245 hp block; however, he would have to
get the engine date code on the rear of the engine block to know for sure.
GM duplicated a lot of engine codes. It is on the opposite side of the
casting number which is also needed. The 10222 numbers are incorrect;
there should only be 4 numbers and they indicate the month and day, ie,
0222 would be February 22 assembly date. Maybe the 1 was a T and he
misread it. T is Tonawanda. Thanks Bob, keep up the good work, and as
always remember 'GOD is Love', Ken
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----------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: CD Mhenry, INTERNET:cdmhenry@earthlink.net
Bob,
Regarding Mike I's '55 w/400.
We show engine code CLK as being '71 Passenger 400 255hp
w/Powerglide, TH350 or 400, '73 Camaro 350 145hp w/Th400 or '74 Camaro
350 145hp w/TH400. In the case of the '71 400 engine it could have come
from Flint, be 4 bolt main and have block casting number 3951509. It
also could have come from Tonawanda, have 4 bolt main & have casting
number 3951511. The block casting number will be at the rear of the
block on the bellhousing flange, driver side. The block was cast on
February 22, 1971. The first character of the engine code should be an F
or T, not 1. The engine was originally outfitted with a rochester 2bbl
7041137 & had intake manifold 3973467. It should be a good engine to
have in a '55. Caution should be taken with 400s with a head gasket
problem. They usually require block decking.
CDM
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-----------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:chris@rubas.com, INTERNET:chris@rubas.com
Hi Bob and List,
I know these questions have been asked before, but I couldn't remember the
responses.
My first question is gas. Are most people using unleaded in their tri-5s?
If
so, were any changes necessary, especially to original engines? Or are
people using a
lead additive?
Second question: smog tests. If you are using a new engine, anything other
than the original engine, are you required to get it smogged, especially in
California?
Thanks!
Christopher
Editor's note. As I understand California smog regulations, any car
manufactured over 25 years ago does not need a smog test to renew the
license.
BOB
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----------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: ken smith, INTERNET:kszenith@webtv.net
Hi everyone, buying a 55-6-7 can be a trying experence I looked at fifty
cars before I was able to find a good one!! If I can help anyone let me
know.
Ken Smith
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--------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: ken smith, INTERNET:kszenith@webtv.net
Hi Bob,
I am looking for a temp gauge for a 1955 chevrolet pass car thanks,
Ken Smith
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------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Marilyn", INTERNET:Marilyn@netins.net
Hi Bob, just a quick note about the bad door I purchased in Wis. I called
CCI about their advertisers in the club magazine and they were very
helpful, but this guy had so many complaints about him that they will not
let him advertise any more. I appreciate Richards response on this matter
and the other person who responded on this matter. Well I am sure every one
has been taken one time or another on parts bought sight unseen. Life goes
on, and I still love these Chevys!!!. By the way, if any body wants to know
this partys name so they don't get taken, Frank Johnson sounds like it if
you get the drift. Keep up the good work Bob!!. Roger In Iowa.
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------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
> From: Editor
>
> I have meet many people at car shows that have told me they want to buy a
> TriFive but they do
> not know enough about cars to make an intelligent purchase. I told them
I
> would get information
> for them and this is a request for that information. Most of these
people
> don't want to do a
> restoration. They just want to buy a car that is ready to drive.
surely they were joking? tell them to keep on dreaming! ;) ;)
any 55 - 57, i believe especially '57 HT and Convertibles all need a few
thousand minimum to fix up. no matter how the car may look it will always
need a few thou to get into good mechanical condition. the exceptions are
if the car was restored recently. in that case the price will be very
high.
no one will sell a 55 - 57 without a very good reason. i doubt anyone
tires of these cars all of a sudden. anyone selling is leaving the next
guy to spend all the money to bring it back in good shape.
> Some want a show car and some
> want a daily driver.
>
> What would you advise someone to look for when the buy a TriFive?
Likewise
> what should they
> avoid when buying a TriFive? Are there models to avoid?
there are only 2 models to buy - a 57 HT or Convertible. ;) :)
seriously, one rule is never to buy from a dealer. always buy from a
private guy. i don't care if the dealer is giving the car away.
don't worry about power steering or power brakes. you can always upgrade
the car later very easily. actually, with no p/s the car still steers
almost like one with p/s
> My big thing when buying a car is rust. If a car's body has a lot of
rust,
> I always think it will be
> expensive to repair the damage. Is that a good assumption?
>
rust is a bad sign. if it's just on one spot it's not so bad, however.
> Also, how do you feel about the motor? Is a V8 more desirable that a 6?
v8 power pac is the most desirable for collectors. if you are getting a
good deal on the car you like but it has a V6 instead of v8 I say go
ahead and buy it. it would be very rare to get the exact kind of car you
are looking for so you have to give in a little on some things.
> What is your opinion of
> an automatic versus a stick shift?
automatic is easier to drive, i feel.
Is a car with modern power steering,
> brakes, etc more or
> less valuable than one that is original?
>
> Your comments please.
>
> Also, several people have told me that if you live close to the border
with
> Canada, you should buy
> your TriFive in Canada because the US dollar is strong versus the
Canadian
> dollar.
yes. however they will ask the same price in
American dollars as what we get here in the U.S. for example, if a car is
worth 17,000 U.S. they will simply ask for 17,000 in us dollars.
i have found that in dealing with Canadian people that they are very
honest. in fact, a survey of businesses found that Canada is one country
that was rated very highly for honesty in doing business.
also if you buy a Canadian car you will get the one-piece bumper. ;)
there should be no duty fees as the car was originally made in the U.S. so
it is simply going back 'home'.
The US dollar
> is worth about $1.40 Canadian dollars the last time I checked. Does that
> mean that Canadian cars
> are a bargain to the American buyer?
>
no - as i mentioned, they will simply raise the price.
however, when doing business with other countries, in particular Canadians
one tip is to say that you have an office in Canada or are calling from
Canada. here is an example - let's say you want to buy a chassis from some
junkyard in Canada. or even a TV or whatever. mention someplace at the
start of your conversation - " i am calling
from Toronto" or " can you ship to my office (or residence) in Toronto -
or BC or Montreal or whatever".
THEN ask for the price. don;'t just say you are in Florida and how much
is the item? the reason is that you may now be quoted a higher price. you
may get lucky and get the Canadian dollar rate as your price.
later on, when it comes time to sending payment or ship the item simply
say, "by the way i happen to be in Florida right now for about a month.
can you ship it here?" you already have (hopefully) the better Canadian
dollar price.
with cars this may not work as the price for a car is posted in American
dollars in most cases. but let's say you want to buy from a dealer in
Canada. it may very well be that they have a higher price for Americans so
the above may work.
Louis
Editor's note. My experience and Louis's are the same about Canadian's
being honest. They are.
Speaking of honesty, can anyone guess where Americans ranked car sales
people on the list of honest occupations?
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<< I hope you can tell me I am correct about the gear selector on the 55
Plymouth because if I am correct, all of the guys in the
class have to take the girls to dinner at the finest restaurant in Little
Rock.
Betty Jones
Editor's note. Betty, look at the Little Rock yellow pages and find the
best restaurant in town because you are going to dinner with the boys in
your class at their expense. You are correct about the 55 Plymouth
automatic gear selector. It was a lever on the right of the
steering wheel and it was on the dash. The push button was introduced in
1956 in the Plymouth. I
think the dash lever was only used 1 year. Does any list member know
for sure.
>>
Bob, you are correct all the way around! Only 55's had the gear shift on
the
dash, my stepdad had one, so I know this for sure! 54's were on the column!
In 56, Dodges also came out with the push button shifting! Richard
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----------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<<
Also, several people have told me that if you live close to the border
with
Canada, you should buy your TriFive in Canada because the US dollar is
strong versus the Canadian
dollar. The US dollar is worth about $1.40 Canadian dollars the last
time I checked. Does that
mean that Canadian cars are a bargain to the American buyer?
NOT REALLY !!!!!!! CANADIANS ARE NOT
DUMMYS ! THEY DO KNOW THE VALUE OF THEIR CARS & THEY DO KNOW THE
U.S./CANADIAN DOLLAR EXCHANGE MUCH BETTER THAN MOST AMERICANS DO!!!!!!!! I
HAVE MANY FRIENDS IN CANADA WITH CLASSIC CHEVYS. WHEN THEY GO TO SELL ONE,
THEY ASK MUCH MORE THAN YOU WOULD PAY FOR IN U.S. DOLLARS, EQUALING OUT TO
ABOUT THE SAME PRICE AS YOU WOULD PAY HERE!!!!!! ACTUALLY MOST OF THEM WHO
ADVERTISE A CAR FOR SALE WILL GIVE A PRICE IN U.S. DOLLARS!!!!!!
RICHARD
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-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Patrick Rodgers, INTERNET:prodgers@earthlink.net
Dear Bob,
At least on the 1957 Chevys, part of the VIN is on the frame. On my
spare frame, the number is on top of the driver's side frame rail, some
where under the rear seat. I think the only way to see it is to remove
the body or cut a hole in the floor. My number, if I remember is
57L?????? plus the punch strike is cocked so only half the number is
really legible.
Patrick Rodgers
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---------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CHEVYLANE@aol.com, INTERNET:CHEVYLANE@aol.com
Bob,
Here's my input for what it's worth on buying a tri-five chevy/classic
chevy.
My opinions here are based on being involved with these cars ever since I
bought my first 57 in 57. For the last 20 or so years I have been
collecting
them, restoring them, buying and selling, showing them, judging them at
shows, etc.
For the past few years since I retired I have run a small at home hobby
business doing work of all sorts on the tri-fives, My own and for others. I
only work on the tri-fives, period. So I do know a little about them but by
no means do I claim to be an expert. I'm still learning something about
these
cars all the time.
I do agree with you on Rust. If I am buying a car to restore rust is a
consideration in it's value of course. If I am buying a car to drive, show,
or otherwise just enjoy I would at all cost find a "rust free" car and I
might add with good paint. The most expensive and time consuming and
frustrating thing to deal with for a buyer is body and paint work. So pay
top
dollar if you have to get a rust free car with good paint. Take it to
someone to check out if you can't do it yourself before buying to be sure
it's a quality car..(body and paint.) If possible get someone who knows
what
to look for on these cars if you don't.
After that it seems almost nothing else matters. I would advise to try to
find a car as close to what you want as possible to minimize future costs.
If
you like originality wait until you find a nice original car. If you want a
nicely modified car find one close to what your after.
Consider how you intend to use it. Driver, show car, or whatever. I can
guarantee one thing, you can buy one like you want far cheaper than you can
build one so find one close to your desires or plan to spend a lot of money
after you buy.
Also consider what you can do yourself versus what you would have to pay to
have done. If your handy you can buy the parts and do it yourself if not it
could cost big bucks down the road to change things.
As far as value is concerned. Original or modified doesn't matter. Quality
is
the key to value in general. A good way to judge is pick up a copy of the
"Old car price guide" or the "antique/classic car" yellow book put out by
NADA. These guides tell you value which are pretty close by model and year
and generally either a modified or original car will be approximately the
same value unless very highly customized or other value adding features are
on a particular car. Then it's in the eye of the beholder. Ragtops are of
course the most valuable, hardtops a distant second, then a distant third
the 2 door sedans (although very high values if highly modified.
Nomads equal to or higher in value than hardtops, other models far less.
Again quality is the key. And quality can be hard to determine. Just
remember
you can buy it cheaper than you can build it.
Hope this keeps someone from buying a rust bucket.
Ron Thomas
Bowtie Chevy Shop
Raleigh NC.
http:hometown.aol.com/Chevylane
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------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com, INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com
Bob,
I just bought a 1955 Belair 4 door car form an ad I found in your for
sale list. I'm telling you so you and your list members will know that
your
ads do work. Thanks, and keep up the good work. Kim
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----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com, INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com
Bob,
FOREVER CLASSICS is participating in the IRWINDALE SPEEDWAY (in Los
Angeles County) Classic Chevy Cruise Night May 6th at 5:00. Any one with a
pre 1977 Chevy can participate, the driver gets in free. For additional
info contact Kim at Marty28447@aol.com
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---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Slgraves56@aol.com, INTERNET:Slgraves56@aol.com
My dad bought a '55 Plymouth new in Nov. 1954. It had shifter lever on the
dash. The 1954 model was on the column and the 1956 was pushbuttons on the
dash. The dash mounted levers were only used in 1955 models.
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-----------------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: 5437, INTERNET:dshaver@pressroom.com
Bob,
A buddy of mine, who believes computers will go the way of the pet rock, is
trying to sell a few 1957 Chevy items and he asked me to send out this
email.
FOR SALE:
A nearly complete (minus the starter, but it has everything else) 1957 283
Power Pack motor. Everything on the engine is original and would be a good
motor for a show car. $1800.00
Entire front clip (hood, fenders, grill, etc) of a 1957 Chevy. No price,
just make him an offer.
If interested contact Ray at (703) 491-1229 (Woodbridge VA)
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com, INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com
To Betty Jones, My dad had a new 55 plymouth, and the shift selector was
indeed on the right side of the dash and mounted vertical. Congrats on your
free dinner !!!!!
Sincerely, Bob in Texas
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_F
ORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 7:37 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST. IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE THAT
HAS E-MAIL AND WOULD BENEFIT FROM BEING A LIST MEMBER, ASK THEM TO
JOIN. THE MORE LIST MEMBERS WE HAVE, THE MORE INFORMATION LIST
MEMBERS CAN SHARE WITH EACH OTHER.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
I ENCOURAGE ALL LIST MEMBERS TO INCLUDE THEIR CITY AND STATE WITH
THEIR POSTS. IF YOU ARE POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO
INCLUDE YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND THE PRICE. IT IS HELPFUL TO ALSO
INCLUDE WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
55-57 USED PARTS FOR SALE---> '56 6cyl radiator support $45, '55 210 4dr
wagon cowl tag, excellent $10, 4dr sedan small quarter window interior
garnish moldings $5ea, complete (with frame bracket) original '55 shackle
assemblies $25pr, NOS '55-56 150 horn cap $70, '55 splash pan
reinforcement
$5, 3speed 2nd&3rd gear linkage swivel + lower rod $20, 56, 57 150
windshield lower corner stainless moldings $25ea, middle long floor brace;
new ends solid welded in $100, 6cyl block side cover $10, station wagon
liftgate stainless trim $20ea, 4dr sedan headliner side retainers
(sawteeth)
$20set, '57 instrument cluster housing; stripped and ready for paint;
includes nice set of chrome thimbles, temp and fuel gauges, mint fuel gauge
lens and some other pieces $25. I have much more than listed here. Email
me
for the list. I'm located in eastern PA.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
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-------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MATH4911@aol.com, INTERNET:MATH4911@aol.com
Bob
I thought no one in the world knew about the 54 Plymouth Hy Drive except
me.
The answer to your trivia question about changing engine oil is 2 1/2
gallons of oil were
needed to do an oil change. This is because when you changed engine oil,
you also changed
the oil in the converter.
Here is some 50's trivia for you. My son loves the reruns of the Andy
Griffith Show. He thinks he has seen every show. When I ask him if he
has seen the ones in color, he tells me there were none in color.
They were all black and white. I admit my 60 year old memory is bad, but I
think I remember shows in color. Does any one know for sure?
Jim Mathews
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Wayne Hawk", INTERNET:repoman@enter.net
LOOKING & NEED BAD, A ELECTRIC WIPER MOTOR
FOR MY 57' CHEVY. IF YOU WOULD HAVE ONE OR CAN REEFER ME TO WHERE I CAN
PURCHASE ONE, I THANK YOU IN ADVANCED. WAYNE
Editor's note. Call 503-667-4329. That is where I got mine.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "kenneth weinstein", INTERNET:kmw57@hotmail.com
please list me in your service.thank you
ken weinstein
44 valleybrook ln.
e.amherst, n.y. 14051
nites 716-689-6888
email= kmw57@hotmail.com
parts for sale:
1940-1980 seatcovers-aftermarket patterns. vinyl mostly striped or plaid
for
most cars. $85./car
1957 rear bumperguards(nonwagon)rechromed 2/$125 or trade for rechromed
wagon rearguards; 1957 p.b. radio needs work $50; 1957 right rear 1st
generation rechromed bumper end $135
car wanted :1955-62 chevy driveable and no rust ever. no big money cars.
my
wife won't let me remortgage my house.
parts wanted 1957 and 1964 chevy nos chrome.
ken weinstein
email= kmw57@hotmail.com
ken weinstein kmw57@hotmail.com
nites buffalo, n.y. 14051 716-689-6888
__________________________________________________ ______________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Jeff Wilson, INTERNET:jwilson@unctv.org
Hi all- I just purchased a newly rebuilt zero-miles
never-been-run 235 inline six motor for my 57 wagon.
It should go in no problem, there's a tired old 235
in there right now.
What hints/ tips/ techniques should I use breaking in
a newly rebuilt engine?
CJ Wilson
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-------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu, INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu
I must be crazy! The other day I went out to my uncles farm to take the
front
hubs off of a wrecked 63 impala to swap on to my '56 to get rid of those
nasty
ball bearings. The impala has been sitting for a long time with no wheels
and
was sunk into the dirt half way up the break drums. The car is located in
a row
of trees along the feed lot. While jacking up the car I realized I was
getting
shocked. After about 10 good jolts of juice I realized I had jacked the
car up
far enough so it was touching an electric fence. After wedging a 2X4
between
the fence and car I began to try to remove the front break drums to get at
the
hubs. Well, the drums were pretty much welded to the spindles after being
buried for so long. I finally got the drums off by hitting them about a
thousand times with a ball pein hammer and actually breaking them into
pieces.
To my surprise the hubs were in good shape. New bearings and seals and I'm
back
on the road!
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------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "David Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com
Question for list members.
I've been told by a questionable source that the trunk lid of tri-5's are
interchangeable. I know the trim holes are different between the years,
but
are there other differences? Also, are there any differences between
models
within the same year?
Thanks,
Dave
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--------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Kenneth L Ogle", INTERNET:kenneth.ogle@gte.net
Bob, 'Mike I' asked about a 400 small block engine code, 10222 CLK. My
book shows 'CLK' to be a 1973 350/245 hp block; however, he would have to
get the engine date code on the rear of the engine block to know for sure.
GM duplicated a lot of engine codes. It is on the opposite side of the
casting number which is also needed. The 10222 numbers are incorrect;
there should only be 4 numbers and they indicate the month and day, ie,
0222 would be February 22 assembly date. Maybe the 1 was a T and he
misread it. T is Tonawanda. Thanks Bob, keep up the good work, and as
always remember 'GOD is Love', Ken
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----------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: CD Mhenry, INTERNET:cdmhenry@earthlink.net
Bob,
Regarding Mike I's '55 w/400.
We show engine code CLK as being '71 Passenger 400 255hp
w/Powerglide, TH350 or 400, '73 Camaro 350 145hp w/Th400 or '74 Camaro
350 145hp w/TH400. In the case of the '71 400 engine it could have come
from Flint, be 4 bolt main and have block casting number 3951509. It
also could have come from Tonawanda, have 4 bolt main & have casting
number 3951511. The block casting number will be at the rear of the
block on the bellhousing flange, driver side. The block was cast on
February 22, 1971. The first character of the engine code should be an F
or T, not 1. The engine was originally outfitted with a rochester 2bbl
7041137 & had intake manifold 3973467. It should be a good engine to
have in a '55. Caution should be taken with 400s with a head gasket
problem. They usually require block decking.
CDM
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-----------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:chris@rubas.com, INTERNET:chris@rubas.com
Hi Bob and List,
I know these questions have been asked before, but I couldn't remember the
responses.
My first question is gas. Are most people using unleaded in their tri-5s?
If
so, were any changes necessary, especially to original engines? Or are
people using a
lead additive?
Second question: smog tests. If you are using a new engine, anything other
than the original engine, are you required to get it smogged, especially in
California?
Thanks!
Christopher
Editor's note. As I understand California smog regulations, any car
manufactured over 25 years ago does not need a smog test to renew the
license.
BOB
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----------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: ken smith, INTERNET:kszenith@webtv.net
Hi everyone, buying a 55-6-7 can be a trying experence I looked at fifty
cars before I was able to find a good one!! If I can help anyone let me
know.
Ken Smith
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: ken smith, INTERNET:kszenith@webtv.net
Hi Bob,
I am looking for a temp gauge for a 1955 chevrolet pass car thanks,
Ken Smith
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Marilyn", INTERNET:Marilyn@netins.net
Hi Bob, just a quick note about the bad door I purchased in Wis. I called
CCI about their advertisers in the club magazine and they were very
helpful, but this guy had so many complaints about him that they will not
let him advertise any more. I appreciate Richards response on this matter
and the other person who responded on this matter. Well I am sure every one
has been taken one time or another on parts bought sight unseen. Life goes
on, and I still love these Chevys!!!. By the way, if any body wants to know
this partys name so they don't get taken, Frank Johnson sounds like it if
you get the drift. Keep up the good work Bob!!. Roger In Iowa.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
> From: Editor
>
> I have meet many people at car shows that have told me they want to buy a
> TriFive but they do
> not know enough about cars to make an intelligent purchase. I told them
I
> would get information
> for them and this is a request for that information. Most of these
people
> don't want to do a
> restoration. They just want to buy a car that is ready to drive.
surely they were joking? tell them to keep on dreaming! ;) ;)
any 55 - 57, i believe especially '57 HT and Convertibles all need a few
thousand minimum to fix up. no matter how the car may look it will always
need a few thou to get into good mechanical condition. the exceptions are
if the car was restored recently. in that case the price will be very
high.
no one will sell a 55 - 57 without a very good reason. i doubt anyone
tires of these cars all of a sudden. anyone selling is leaving the next
guy to spend all the money to bring it back in good shape.
> Some want a show car and some
> want a daily driver.
>
> What would you advise someone to look for when the buy a TriFive?
Likewise
> what should they
> avoid when buying a TriFive? Are there models to avoid?
there are only 2 models to buy - a 57 HT or Convertible. ;) :)
seriously, one rule is never to buy from a dealer. always buy from a
private guy. i don't care if the dealer is giving the car away.
don't worry about power steering or power brakes. you can always upgrade
the car later very easily. actually, with no p/s the car still steers
almost like one with p/s
> My big thing when buying a car is rust. If a car's body has a lot of
rust,
> I always think it will be
> expensive to repair the damage. Is that a good assumption?
>
rust is a bad sign. if it's just on one spot it's not so bad, however.
> Also, how do you feel about the motor? Is a V8 more desirable that a 6?
v8 power pac is the most desirable for collectors. if you are getting a
good deal on the car you like but it has a V6 instead of v8 I say go
ahead and buy it. it would be very rare to get the exact kind of car you
are looking for so you have to give in a little on some things.
> What is your opinion of
> an automatic versus a stick shift?
automatic is easier to drive, i feel.
Is a car with modern power steering,
> brakes, etc more or
> less valuable than one that is original?
>
> Your comments please.
>
> Also, several people have told me that if you live close to the border
with
> Canada, you should buy
> your TriFive in Canada because the US dollar is strong versus the
Canadian
> dollar.
yes. however they will ask the same price in
American dollars as what we get here in the U.S. for example, if a car is
worth 17,000 U.S. they will simply ask for 17,000 in us dollars.
i have found that in dealing with Canadian people that they are very
honest. in fact, a survey of businesses found that Canada is one country
that was rated very highly for honesty in doing business.
also if you buy a Canadian car you will get the one-piece bumper. ;)
there should be no duty fees as the car was originally made in the U.S. so
it is simply going back 'home'.
The US dollar
> is worth about $1.40 Canadian dollars the last time I checked. Does that
> mean that Canadian cars
> are a bargain to the American buyer?
>
no - as i mentioned, they will simply raise the price.
however, when doing business with other countries, in particular Canadians
one tip is to say that you have an office in Canada or are calling from
Canada. here is an example - let's say you want to buy a chassis from some
junkyard in Canada. or even a TV or whatever. mention someplace at the
start of your conversation - " i am calling
from Toronto" or " can you ship to my office (or residence) in Toronto -
or BC or Montreal or whatever".
THEN ask for the price. don;'t just say you are in Florida and how much
is the item? the reason is that you may now be quoted a higher price. you
may get lucky and get the Canadian dollar rate as your price.
later on, when it comes time to sending payment or ship the item simply
say, "by the way i happen to be in Florida right now for about a month.
can you ship it here?" you already have (hopefully) the better Canadian
dollar price.
with cars this may not work as the price for a car is posted in American
dollars in most cases. but let's say you want to buy from a dealer in
Canada. it may very well be that they have a higher price for Americans so
the above may work.
Louis
Editor's note. My experience and Louis's are the same about Canadian's
being honest. They are.
Speaking of honesty, can anyone guess where Americans ranked car sales
people on the list of honest occupations?
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<< I hope you can tell me I am correct about the gear selector on the 55
Plymouth because if I am correct, all of the guys in the
class have to take the girls to dinner at the finest restaurant in Little
Rock.
Betty Jones
Editor's note. Betty, look at the Little Rock yellow pages and find the
best restaurant in town because you are going to dinner with the boys in
your class at their expense. You are correct about the 55 Plymouth
automatic gear selector. It was a lever on the right of the
steering wheel and it was on the dash. The push button was introduced in
1956 in the Plymouth. I
think the dash lever was only used 1 year. Does any list member know
for sure.
>>
Bob, you are correct all the way around! Only 55's had the gear shift on
the
dash, my stepdad had one, so I know this for sure! 54's were on the column!
In 56, Dodges also came out with the push button shifting! Richard
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<<
Also, several people have told me that if you live close to the border
with
Canada, you should buy your TriFive in Canada because the US dollar is
strong versus the Canadian
dollar. The US dollar is worth about $1.40 Canadian dollars the last
time I checked. Does that
mean that Canadian cars are a bargain to the American buyer?
NOT REALLY !!!!!!! CANADIANS ARE NOT
DUMMYS ! THEY DO KNOW THE VALUE OF THEIR CARS & THEY DO KNOW THE
U.S./CANADIAN DOLLAR EXCHANGE MUCH BETTER THAN MOST AMERICANS DO!!!!!!!! I
HAVE MANY FRIENDS IN CANADA WITH CLASSIC CHEVYS. WHEN THEY GO TO SELL ONE,
THEY ASK MUCH MORE THAN YOU WOULD PAY FOR IN U.S. DOLLARS, EQUALING OUT TO
ABOUT THE SAME PRICE AS YOU WOULD PAY HERE!!!!!! ACTUALLY MOST OF THEM WHO
ADVERTISE A CAR FOR SALE WILL GIVE A PRICE IN U.S. DOLLARS!!!!!!
RICHARD
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-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Patrick Rodgers, INTERNET:prodgers@earthlink.net
Dear Bob,
At least on the 1957 Chevys, part of the VIN is on the frame. On my
spare frame, the number is on top of the driver's side frame rail, some
where under the rear seat. I think the only way to see it is to remove
the body or cut a hole in the floor. My number, if I remember is
57L?????? plus the punch strike is cocked so only half the number is
really legible.
Patrick Rodgers
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---------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CHEVYLANE@aol.com, INTERNET:CHEVYLANE@aol.com
Bob,
Here's my input for what it's worth on buying a tri-five chevy/classic
chevy.
My opinions here are based on being involved with these cars ever since I
bought my first 57 in 57. For the last 20 or so years I have been
collecting
them, restoring them, buying and selling, showing them, judging them at
shows, etc.
For the past few years since I retired I have run a small at home hobby
business doing work of all sorts on the tri-fives, My own and for others. I
only work on the tri-fives, period. So I do know a little about them but by
no means do I claim to be an expert. I'm still learning something about
these
cars all the time.
I do agree with you on Rust. If I am buying a car to restore rust is a
consideration in it's value of course. If I am buying a car to drive, show,
or otherwise just enjoy I would at all cost find a "rust free" car and I
might add with good paint. The most expensive and time consuming and
frustrating thing to deal with for a buyer is body and paint work. So pay
top
dollar if you have to get a rust free car with good paint. Take it to
someone to check out if you can't do it yourself before buying to be sure
it's a quality car..(body and paint.) If possible get someone who knows
what
to look for on these cars if you don't.
After that it seems almost nothing else matters. I would advise to try to
find a car as close to what you want as possible to minimize future costs.
If
you like originality wait until you find a nice original car. If you want a
nicely modified car find one close to what your after.
Consider how you intend to use it. Driver, show car, or whatever. I can
guarantee one thing, you can buy one like you want far cheaper than you can
build one so find one close to your desires or plan to spend a lot of money
after you buy.
Also consider what you can do yourself versus what you would have to pay to
have done. If your handy you can buy the parts and do it yourself if not it
could cost big bucks down the road to change things.
As far as value is concerned. Original or modified doesn't matter. Quality
is
the key to value in general. A good way to judge is pick up a copy of the
"Old car price guide" or the "antique/classic car" yellow book put out by
NADA. These guides tell you value which are pretty close by model and year
and generally either a modified or original car will be approximately the
same value unless very highly customized or other value adding features are
on a particular car. Then it's in the eye of the beholder. Ragtops are of
course the most valuable, hardtops a distant second, then a distant third
the 2 door sedans (although very high values if highly modified.
Nomads equal to or higher in value than hardtops, other models far less.
Again quality is the key. And quality can be hard to determine. Just
remember
you can buy it cheaper than you can build it.
Hope this keeps someone from buying a rust bucket.
Ron Thomas
Bowtie Chevy Shop
Raleigh NC.
http:hometown.aol.com/Chevylane
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------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com, INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com
Bob,
I just bought a 1955 Belair 4 door car form an ad I found in your for
sale list. I'm telling you so you and your list members will know that
your
ads do work. Thanks, and keep up the good work. Kim
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----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com, INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com
Bob,
FOREVER CLASSICS is participating in the IRWINDALE SPEEDWAY (in Los
Angeles County) Classic Chevy Cruise Night May 6th at 5:00. Any one with a
pre 1977 Chevy can participate, the driver gets in free. For additional
info contact Kim at Marty28447@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Slgraves56@aol.com, INTERNET:Slgraves56@aol.com
My dad bought a '55 Plymouth new in Nov. 1954. It had shifter lever on the
dash. The 1954 model was on the column and the 1956 was pushbuttons on the
dash. The dash mounted levers were only used in 1955 models.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: 5437, INTERNET:dshaver@pressroom.com
Bob,
A buddy of mine, who believes computers will go the way of the pet rock, is
trying to sell a few 1957 Chevy items and he asked me to send out this
email.
FOR SALE:
A nearly complete (minus the starter, but it has everything else) 1957 283
Power Pack motor. Everything on the engine is original and would be a good
motor for a show car. $1800.00
Entire front clip (hood, fenders, grill, etc) of a 1957 Chevy. No price,
just make him an offer.
If interested contact Ray at (703) 491-1229 (Woodbridge VA)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com, INTERNET:Conoso@aol.com
To Betty Jones, My dad had a new 55 plymouth, and the shift selector was
indeed on the right side of the dash and mounted vertical. Congrats on your
free dinner !!!!!
Sincerely, Bob in Texas
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--------------------------------
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_F
ORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY