TriChrome
03-06-2018, 11:29 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:40 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST. IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE THAT
HAS E-MAIL AND WOULD BENEFIT FROM BEING A LIST MEMBER, ASK THEM TO
JOIN. THE MORE LIST MEMBERS WE HAVE, THE MORE INFORMATION LIST
MEMBERS CAN SHARE WITH EACH OTHER.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
I ENCOURAGE ALL LIST MEMBERS TO INCLUDE THEIR CITY AND STATE WITH
THEIR POSTS. IF YOU ARE POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO
INCLUDE YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND THE PRICE. IT IS HELPFUL TO ALSO
INCLUDE WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: "'Bob Ford'", BOB_FORD
From: "Mazerolle, Marc (NBCC Miramichi)", INTERNET:marc.mazerolle@gnb.ca
Bob,
I would like to reply to the list and to David Hecker about the AC question
he posed.
I was a Refrigeration Technician for many years and the Air Conditioning
units in most cars are very similar to refrigeration units. Here is why
you
need to run the system; The refrigerant or "Freon" in the system is pushed
through the system by a compressor, the compressor is lubricated with an
oil
that is specific to refrigeration systems. This oil mixes with the "gas"
(Freon) and is pushed throughout the system to keep o-rings and seals from
cracking and drying out. If these seals and o-rings do not get the proper
lubrication they will crack, causing leaks in the system. Different
"gases"
have different molecular structures, meaning some can leak through smaller
areas easier than others. 134a, I believe, is one of those gases that is
smaller in molecular structure than the older "outlawed" gases like R12.
This means it can leak out of smaller openings. In the past, hoses made of
woven material were used to prevent vibration cracks in A/C lines, older
gases would not leak through these hoses, the newer "environment friendly"
gases are smaller and can leak through these lines, so new hoses made of
rubber and such were made to replace them. So, basically to answer the
question, the compressor front pulley seal needs to be lubricated to
maintain it's seal, this can only be done by running the A/C unit to get
oil
to the seal, also the o-rings at different points in the system, (hose to
accumulator tank, host to condenser, etc..), need lubrication to maintain
seal. As for running it every few days, in my opinion, your technician is
just keeping your costs in mind by being perhaps a little over cautious,
but
in this day and age, a technician looking out for you is a good thing,
don't
you think?
Marc Mazerolle
St Margarets, New Brunswick, Canada.
Editor's note. I just had an air conditioner hose replaced on my Ford
Explorer. The hose was $250 which was bad enough but 3 pounds of R12 were
needed to be added to the system. The cost of R12 is now $50 per pound.
The mechanic was totally surprised when I told him I had a case of R12 and
handed him 3 pounds of it. When I told him I only paid 1 dollar a pound
for the R12, I could just see the wheels turning in his head. That was a
500 percent return on an investment. He wanted to know if I would sell him
the rest of the case. He told me the price will be $200 per pound next
year. He also had been told that in 2002 there will be no more R12 and they
expect a lot of conversions to R134 which can be a very expensive job. My
friend Joe did a conversion of his 80 Chevy that cost about $10. He just
replaced the R12 fittings with R134 fittings and put in R134. This was a
year ago and his air conditioning system is still working fine. His idea
is as long as it works, why change.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Morgan McPherson", INTERNET:morganmcp@hotmail.com
Dear Bob:
I have the following parts available for a '57 hardtop:
1. Front Seat, complete and in great shape.
2. Complete factory power brake, peddle master and all brackets.
3. Complete drum to drum rear end.
4. Grill bar, and lights.
5. Many other misc parts, call.
6. Chevy factory LS-6 big block polished manifold.
Morgan (213) 739 9377, days west coast time, or morganmcp@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Leo & Julie Klein", INTERNET:Cars@theriver.com
Bob, need some help. Is there any difference between the tri 5 chev wind
shield wiper cable drives. And does any body have a picture of how their
installed.
thanks, Leo
cars@theriver.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Crean", INTERNET:creanie@bellatlantic.net
when doing my restoration on a 57 2 door sedan, i did not put a sealant
where the stainless corner trim pokes through to the inside on the rear
window
now my new headliner has water stains on it
can anyone recommend somr type of cleaner which may remove or fade this
ugly mark
thanks,
rob crean
creanie@bellatlantic.net
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: EDGAR CASTRO, INTERNET:ED-Chevy55@webtv.net
Hi Bob,
I just want to thank you for such a wonderful list
you have, Great work!!!! I just want to ask you or anybody on this list a
concern I have about my 1955 Bel-Air. I bought the car from the original
owner,(I'm the second owner) It has 66,000
original miles, straight 6 engine with a powerglide tranny. The car is 100%
original.
It needs restoration and don't know if I should keep it original. People
tell me that it will be "MURDER" to Hot Rod the car. What do you think I
should do????? Every car show I go to
1 out of 10 1955 I see are original. Please all
comments are welcome. Also, I haven't drove the car on the highway yet.
My Q is, Would I be able to do 65 to 70 MPH once on the highway???? Is
the engine and rear I have
powerful enough for that??? The engine has 136 HP. Thank you very much
for your help everyone. Keep up the good work BOB.
>From NJ,
Ed
Editor's note. This is just my opinion. Others will differ. Ed, just do
what you would like with your
55. If you want to hot rod it fine. If you want to keep it original fine
also.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CAPS4@aol.com, INTERNET:CAPS4@aol.com
Hi Bob, This is a reply to DOUGCOURT on the 1955 Nomad "Knuckelbuster"
center
tailgate bar.
The 1955 Nomads had many interesting and very unique features, among
them the "knuckelbuster" center tailgate bar on the early 55"s but not on
the later 55 Nomad run. If you can picture the tailgate bars, all of them
are raised about 3/4 of an inch. The early 1955 Nomad center tailgate bar
had this "raised" portion of the bar under the handle of the center bar,
and
matched all the other bars perfectly. If you sliped your hand under the
handle of these early cars to open the lower gate, there is very little
room
for it and you are almost sure to scrape your knuckels, thus the phrase
"knuckelbuster". At some point during the 1955 Nomad model run, someone at
GM realized that it would be much more comfortable if this "raised" portion
of the bar was eliminated and scooped out to allow more room for the owners
hand. The center bars were then re-tooled for an easier fit.
My 1955 Nomad is very stock and original and is body #4558. It has
the
knuckelbuster center bar. Later 1955 Nomads and all 56 and 57 Nomads have
the second design. Pete Cap
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
Hi Bob, I just want to let the list members know that there will be 2
Conventions coming up in our area in the next couple months! The National
Nomad Convention will be held in Spokane,Wash. July 10-14, & Late Great
Chevys combined with Bow Tie Chevys & Yesteryears Chevys will be having
their
Northwest National here in Coeurd'Alene, Idaho !!!!! (Aug. 13-16). If any
list readers out there plan on coming to either convention & want to know
ANYTHING about our area (ie. hotel rates, good, reasonable places to eat,
things to do & see, etc. etc., I would be happy to assist anyone in anyway
I
can. Just email me - lovemy56@aol.com
Richard
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<< o: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "jimj", INTERNET:jimj@cujo2.icom.ca
Hi Bob & All. Need your help. I have replaced the
drivers window and frame on my '55 hardtop and
it is way out of adjustment. When you run the
window up, it goes to the to the top at the front, but
is down about 1"-1 1/2" at the back. Problem- I can't
figure out how to adjust it so that it is nice and straight
when in the full up position. HELP !! >>
JIM, YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF YOUR DOOR PANEL AGAIN & ROLL YOUR WINDOW UP &N
DOWN & CHECK INSIDE THE DOOR WITH A FLASHLIKE WHILE ROLLING THE WINDOW UP.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM! YOU MAY HAVE BROKEN THE LITTLE
TANG THAT'S WELDED ON TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDOW CHANNEL. OR IT COULD HAVE
JUST SLIPPED OUT OF PLACE. CHECK VERY CLOSELY! YOU WILL FIND THE PROBLEM!
RICHARD
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
I have a bunch of used 55-57 Chevy parts for sale. Here is a partial
listing------>>>> 4dr sedan quarter window garnish moldings $10pair,
55-56
overdrive control cable $95, 55 grille; some pits; most suitable for
painting $15, station wagon liftgate trim, upper or lower $20each,
complete
original 55 shackle assemblies, with frame brackets $25pair, 6cyl
powerglide
flywheel $25, 6cyl block-to-powerglide adaptor $30, 57 working 6cyl
starter
(covered linkage) $30, 55 6cyl solid lifters & push rods; complete set;
for
123 HP 3speed/overdrive carsv$20, 6 cylinder block side cover $10, 55
taillight housings and stainless lens dividers, need lenses and rechrome
bezels $20pr. Parts plus shipping. I'm located in eastern PA.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Klasicjon@aol.com, INTERNET:Klasicjon@aol.com
RE; Don looking for a 57 wiring diagram. Send me your address and I'll
send
you a copy. Email me at Klasicjon@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:rdsjr1@ix.netcom.com, INTERNET:rdsjr1@ix.netcom.com
Hi, guess my first try didn't get through. Hope everybody is getting in
lots of CRUIZIN!! If you not and your still working on your "baby", I
might have some help for you. I've had these books listed before and
those that bought one seem to really like them. Take a couple of minutes
and take a look at my web site,
http://www.geocities.com/chevybooks/ you will find samples to look at.
If you have any questions just email me from the site. Thanks, Rick
keep4u@yahoo.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:smk4949@aol.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Steve,
I have one!!!! It is the relay mounted on the pass side fenderwell for
55 chevy with a/c. It is the temp. control switch relay for a/c. It is
NOS. The cost is $150. It is very rare. If your interested give me a
call. Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:rndman50@triton.net
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Jeff,
When you put the hardtop body on the sedan frame did you weld in the two
short rear braces from the inner rockers to the rear floor pans?
Hardtops have two extra short braces to compensate for not having the
post for support. Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu, INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu
I've recently been looking for an economy car for an everyday driver. I
hate to
buy a rice grinder. I have located a really nice 1965 Chevy II hardtop
with a 6
cylinder 3-speed. The car has about 70,000 miles on it. Does any one have
an
idea of what kind of mileage these little Chevys got?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:don9802@aol.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Don,
We have enlarged wiring diagrams for 55, 56, and 57. Cost is $3.50ea.
Thank you, Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Harry Jenkins, INTERNET:hkjenk@erols.com
Bob,
This is a response to DOUGCOURT@aol.com and his question on the "knuckle
buster". The "knuckle buster" is the middle rib on a Nomad's tailgate
that the handle attaches to. The "knuckle buster" is found on the early
version Nomads, predominantly "early" '55s. This center bar was raised
like the other 6 tailgate ribs or "banana bars". Unfortunately the space
between the handle and the rib was anything but generous. When gripping
the handle to open and lower the tailgate, it was not uncommon for the
average hand to come in contact with the raised rib portion causing
individual discomfort AND a few expletives; hence the term "knuckle
buster". Later versions of the center bar had a smooth recessed portion
in the rib beneath the handle solving that problem... and that's the
rest of the story.
Keep up the good work, Bob!
Harry ('55 Nomad)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:jimj@cujo2.icom.ca
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
"jmj" inquires about adjustment on the hardtop door glass for his '55,
noting
that the upper edge of the glass is not parallel with the roof opening.
I'd suggest digging up a copy of the Fisher Body - Body Shop Manual for
detailed
instructions. There are adjustments to "tip" the glass - as well as limit
stops
for the travel both full-up and full-down. I can't recall off-hand exactly
where
they are located on the door inner panel, though.
If the glass is really off by an inch or inch and one-half though, I
question
whether something else might not be wrong. Carefully compare the
replacement
glass/frame (and any replacement linkage) with that which was removed. Are
all
the attachments located in exactly the same places? Are the various rollers
staked firmly in the correct locations? I'd also suggest reaching inside
the
door and carefully pushing on various portions of the "scissors" mechanism
inside to see what produces movement in the direction that you want to tip
the
glass. [Please keep in mind that it is quite easy to severely injure one's
fingers given the mechanical advantages of the lift mechanism - Be
Careful].
If nothing is obviously bent, broken or wrong, my guess is that the track
affixed to the inside of the door inner panel (which serves to anchor an
end of
the slave arm) needs to be re-positioned.
Good luck.
Roy N.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Glenn R. Swaney", INTERNET:swaneyg@psci.net
To: Wayne Clifton
What problems are you having? I missed you original post.
swaneyg@psci.net
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
With respect to the gentleman who asked about input on suggestions that he
regularly run a vehicle equipped with an after-market A/C system using
R-134a,
I'd offer the following:
Regular operation of any A/C system to keep the seals lubricated is a good
idea
- even during Winter. In fact, this is one reason why just about all
factory A/C
systems are set up so as to run the A/C compressor when the control is
placed in
the "Defrost" or "de-ice". People may disagree on recommendations as to
the
minimum frequency required, but certainly operation even if the car is not
being
driven is not a bad idea.
When one is dealing with a system using R-134a as the refrigerant, this
regular
operation is twice as important. This is because the "a" suffix is used to
denote the fact that this refrigerant is angiotropic or something like
that.
What it really means is that R-134a is a mixture - which is made up of
molecules
of different sizes. The smaller size molecules obviously tend to leak out
first
through any possible opening. Thus, the proportions of the remaining
mixture can
get out-of-sync after a short time when the system has even a small leak.
Then,
the refrigerant has to be completely evacuated prior to re-charging - and
this
can get expensive.
Thus, my advice would be to go along with the recommendation to run that
compressor every so often.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
In response to Bill Lewis' question about where to find a '55 license tag
for California plates try:
Bob Duedall
815 N. Lincoln St.
Dixon, CA 95620
(707) 678-9409
He deals in nothing but license plates and makes the rounds of automotive
swapmeets around the state. His stuff is THE BEST.
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Don9802@aol.com
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Don,
In answer to your question about where to find the electrical diagram for a
'57; it's in Section 12 of the "57 Passenger Car Shop Manual" . Look on
the back of the first page in that section. Those books are available
through most restoration parts dealers.
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net, INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net
In response to Mike (M477@Midwest.net), about needing a new radiator:
You can get new ones from Shafers Classic Reproductions. You have
several choices: they manufacture ones that are completely correct in
every detail, including date code and Harrison logo; or you can buy them
without all the "show correct" details; they even sell radiators with
extra cores for better cooling capacity, if that's what you want. All of
these fit and look like the original. Prices are reasonable and vary
according to what you need, from $361.50 on up.
Contact them at www.shafersclassic.com. They are a wholesaler, so they
can't sell directly to you, but they can point you to a dealer near you.
Or contact me and I can have one shipped directly to you (I'm a Shafer's
Dealer).
Good luck!
Steve
Authentic Automotive
----------------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:KIRMAN@softmail.net, INTERNET:KIRMANo@softmail.net
Bob
I think it is terrible that after all you have done for us Tri-Five people,
I have never seen you and this list mentioned in CCI and Bow Tie magazines.
Shame on them.
KIRMAN
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:40 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST. IF YOU KNOW SOMEONE THAT
HAS E-MAIL AND WOULD BENEFIT FROM BEING A LIST MEMBER, ASK THEM TO
JOIN. THE MORE LIST MEMBERS WE HAVE, THE MORE INFORMATION LIST
MEMBERS CAN SHARE WITH EACH OTHER.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
I ENCOURAGE ALL LIST MEMBERS TO INCLUDE THEIR CITY AND STATE WITH
THEIR POSTS. IF YOU ARE POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO
INCLUDE YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND THE PRICE. IT IS HELPFUL TO ALSO
INCLUDE WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: "'Bob Ford'", BOB_FORD
From: "Mazerolle, Marc (NBCC Miramichi)", INTERNET:marc.mazerolle@gnb.ca
Bob,
I would like to reply to the list and to David Hecker about the AC question
he posed.
I was a Refrigeration Technician for many years and the Air Conditioning
units in most cars are very similar to refrigeration units. Here is why
you
need to run the system; The refrigerant or "Freon" in the system is pushed
through the system by a compressor, the compressor is lubricated with an
oil
that is specific to refrigeration systems. This oil mixes with the "gas"
(Freon) and is pushed throughout the system to keep o-rings and seals from
cracking and drying out. If these seals and o-rings do not get the proper
lubrication they will crack, causing leaks in the system. Different
"gases"
have different molecular structures, meaning some can leak through smaller
areas easier than others. 134a, I believe, is one of those gases that is
smaller in molecular structure than the older "outlawed" gases like R12.
This means it can leak out of smaller openings. In the past, hoses made of
woven material were used to prevent vibration cracks in A/C lines, older
gases would not leak through these hoses, the newer "environment friendly"
gases are smaller and can leak through these lines, so new hoses made of
rubber and such were made to replace them. So, basically to answer the
question, the compressor front pulley seal needs to be lubricated to
maintain it's seal, this can only be done by running the A/C unit to get
oil
to the seal, also the o-rings at different points in the system, (hose to
accumulator tank, host to condenser, etc..), need lubrication to maintain
seal. As for running it every few days, in my opinion, your technician is
just keeping your costs in mind by being perhaps a little over cautious,
but
in this day and age, a technician looking out for you is a good thing,
don't
you think?
Marc Mazerolle
St Margarets, New Brunswick, Canada.
Editor's note. I just had an air conditioner hose replaced on my Ford
Explorer. The hose was $250 which was bad enough but 3 pounds of R12 were
needed to be added to the system. The cost of R12 is now $50 per pound.
The mechanic was totally surprised when I told him I had a case of R12 and
handed him 3 pounds of it. When I told him I only paid 1 dollar a pound
for the R12, I could just see the wheels turning in his head. That was a
500 percent return on an investment. He wanted to know if I would sell him
the rest of the case. He told me the price will be $200 per pound next
year. He also had been told that in 2002 there will be no more R12 and they
expect a lot of conversions to R134 which can be a very expensive job. My
friend Joe did a conversion of his 80 Chevy that cost about $10. He just
replaced the R12 fittings with R134 fittings and put in R134. This was a
year ago and his air conditioning system is still working fine. His idea
is as long as it works, why change.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Morgan McPherson", INTERNET:morganmcp@hotmail.com
Dear Bob:
I have the following parts available for a '57 hardtop:
1. Front Seat, complete and in great shape.
2. Complete factory power brake, peddle master and all brackets.
3. Complete drum to drum rear end.
4. Grill bar, and lights.
5. Many other misc parts, call.
6. Chevy factory LS-6 big block polished manifold.
Morgan (213) 739 9377, days west coast time, or morganmcp@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Leo & Julie Klein", INTERNET:Cars@theriver.com
Bob, need some help. Is there any difference between the tri 5 chev wind
shield wiper cable drives. And does any body have a picture of how their
installed.
thanks, Leo
cars@theriver.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Crean", INTERNET:creanie@bellatlantic.net
when doing my restoration on a 57 2 door sedan, i did not put a sealant
where the stainless corner trim pokes through to the inside on the rear
window
now my new headliner has water stains on it
can anyone recommend somr type of cleaner which may remove or fade this
ugly mark
thanks,
rob crean
creanie@bellatlantic.net
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: EDGAR CASTRO, INTERNET:ED-Chevy55@webtv.net
Hi Bob,
I just want to thank you for such a wonderful list
you have, Great work!!!! I just want to ask you or anybody on this list a
concern I have about my 1955 Bel-Air. I bought the car from the original
owner,(I'm the second owner) It has 66,000
original miles, straight 6 engine with a powerglide tranny. The car is 100%
original.
It needs restoration and don't know if I should keep it original. People
tell me that it will be "MURDER" to Hot Rod the car. What do you think I
should do????? Every car show I go to
1 out of 10 1955 I see are original. Please all
comments are welcome. Also, I haven't drove the car on the highway yet.
My Q is, Would I be able to do 65 to 70 MPH once on the highway???? Is
the engine and rear I have
powerful enough for that??? The engine has 136 HP. Thank you very much
for your help everyone. Keep up the good work BOB.
>From NJ,
Ed
Editor's note. This is just my opinion. Others will differ. Ed, just do
what you would like with your
55. If you want to hot rod it fine. If you want to keep it original fine
also.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CAPS4@aol.com, INTERNET:CAPS4@aol.com
Hi Bob, This is a reply to DOUGCOURT on the 1955 Nomad "Knuckelbuster"
center
tailgate bar.
The 1955 Nomads had many interesting and very unique features, among
them the "knuckelbuster" center tailgate bar on the early 55"s but not on
the later 55 Nomad run. If you can picture the tailgate bars, all of them
are raised about 3/4 of an inch. The early 1955 Nomad center tailgate bar
had this "raised" portion of the bar under the handle of the center bar,
and
matched all the other bars perfectly. If you sliped your hand under the
handle of these early cars to open the lower gate, there is very little
room
for it and you are almost sure to scrape your knuckels, thus the phrase
"knuckelbuster". At some point during the 1955 Nomad model run, someone at
GM realized that it would be much more comfortable if this "raised" portion
of the bar was eliminated and scooped out to allow more room for the owners
hand. The center bars were then re-tooled for an easier fit.
My 1955 Nomad is very stock and original and is body #4558. It has
the
knuckelbuster center bar. Later 1955 Nomads and all 56 and 57 Nomads have
the second design. Pete Cap
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------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
Hi Bob, I just want to let the list members know that there will be 2
Conventions coming up in our area in the next couple months! The National
Nomad Convention will be held in Spokane,Wash. July 10-14, & Late Great
Chevys combined with Bow Tie Chevys & Yesteryears Chevys will be having
their
Northwest National here in Coeurd'Alene, Idaho !!!!! (Aug. 13-16). If any
list readers out there plan on coming to either convention & want to know
ANYTHING about our area (ie. hotel rates, good, reasonable places to eat,
things to do & see, etc. etc., I would be happy to assist anyone in anyway
I
can. Just email me - lovemy56@aol.com
Richard
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<< o: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "jimj", INTERNET:jimj@cujo2.icom.ca
Hi Bob & All. Need your help. I have replaced the
drivers window and frame on my '55 hardtop and
it is way out of adjustment. When you run the
window up, it goes to the to the top at the front, but
is down about 1"-1 1/2" at the back. Problem- I can't
figure out how to adjust it so that it is nice and straight
when in the full up position. HELP !! >>
JIM, YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF YOUR DOOR PANEL AGAIN & ROLL YOUR WINDOW UP &N
DOWN & CHECK INSIDE THE DOOR WITH A FLASHLIKE WHILE ROLLING THE WINDOW UP.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM! YOU MAY HAVE BROKEN THE LITTLE
TANG THAT'S WELDED ON TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDOW CHANNEL. OR IT COULD HAVE
JUST SLIPPED OUT OF PLACE. CHECK VERY CLOSELY! YOU WILL FIND THE PROBLEM!
RICHARD
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---------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
I have a bunch of used 55-57 Chevy parts for sale. Here is a partial
listing------>>>> 4dr sedan quarter window garnish moldings $10pair,
55-56
overdrive control cable $95, 55 grille; some pits; most suitable for
painting $15, station wagon liftgate trim, upper or lower $20each,
complete
original 55 shackle assemblies, with frame brackets $25pair, 6cyl
powerglide
flywheel $25, 6cyl block-to-powerglide adaptor $30, 57 working 6cyl
starter
(covered linkage) $30, 55 6cyl solid lifters & push rods; complete set;
for
123 HP 3speed/overdrive carsv$20, 6 cylinder block side cover $10, 55
taillight housings and stainless lens dividers, need lenses and rechrome
bezels $20pr. Parts plus shipping. I'm located in eastern PA.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
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------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Klasicjon@aol.com, INTERNET:Klasicjon@aol.com
RE; Don looking for a 57 wiring diagram. Send me your address and I'll
send
you a copy. Email me at Klasicjon@aol.com
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-----------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:rdsjr1@ix.netcom.com, INTERNET:rdsjr1@ix.netcom.com
Hi, guess my first try didn't get through. Hope everybody is getting in
lots of CRUIZIN!! If you not and your still working on your "baby", I
might have some help for you. I've had these books listed before and
those that bought one seem to really like them. Take a couple of minutes
and take a look at my web site,
http://www.geocities.com/chevybooks/ you will find samples to look at.
If you have any questions just email me from the site. Thanks, Rick
keep4u@yahoo.com
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To: [unknown], INTERNET:smk4949@aol.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Steve,
I have one!!!! It is the relay mounted on the pass side fenderwell for
55 chevy with a/c. It is the temp. control switch relay for a/c. It is
NOS. The cost is $150. It is very rare. If your interested give me a
call. Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
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To: [unknown], INTERNET:rndman50@triton.net
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Jeff,
When you put the hardtop body on the sedan frame did you weld in the two
short rear braces from the inner rockers to the rear floor pans?
Hardtops have two extra short braces to compensate for not having the
post for support. Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
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-------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu, INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu
I've recently been looking for an economy car for an everyday driver. I
hate to
buy a rice grinder. I have located a really nice 1965 Chevy II hardtop
with a 6
cylinder 3-speed. The car has about 70,000 miles on it. Does any one have
an
idea of what kind of mileage these little Chevys got?
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-------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:don9802@aol.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Don,
We have enlarged wiring diagrams for 55, 56, and 57. Cost is $3.50ea.
Thank you, Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
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------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Harry Jenkins, INTERNET:hkjenk@erols.com
Bob,
This is a response to DOUGCOURT@aol.com and his question on the "knuckle
buster". The "knuckle buster" is the middle rib on a Nomad's tailgate
that the handle attaches to. The "knuckle buster" is found on the early
version Nomads, predominantly "early" '55s. This center bar was raised
like the other 6 tailgate ribs or "banana bars". Unfortunately the space
between the handle and the rib was anything but generous. When gripping
the handle to open and lower the tailgate, it was not uncommon for the
average hand to come in contact with the raised rib portion causing
individual discomfort AND a few expletives; hence the term "knuckle
buster". Later versions of the center bar had a smooth recessed portion
in the rib beneath the handle solving that problem... and that's the
rest of the story.
Keep up the good work, Bob!
Harry ('55 Nomad)
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----------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:jimj@cujo2.icom.ca
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
"jmj" inquires about adjustment on the hardtop door glass for his '55,
noting
that the upper edge of the glass is not parallel with the roof opening.
I'd suggest digging up a copy of the Fisher Body - Body Shop Manual for
detailed
instructions. There are adjustments to "tip" the glass - as well as limit
stops
for the travel both full-up and full-down. I can't recall off-hand exactly
where
they are located on the door inner panel, though.
If the glass is really off by an inch or inch and one-half though, I
question
whether something else might not be wrong. Carefully compare the
replacement
glass/frame (and any replacement linkage) with that which was removed. Are
all
the attachments located in exactly the same places? Are the various rollers
staked firmly in the correct locations? I'd also suggest reaching inside
the
door and carefully pushing on various portions of the "scissors" mechanism
inside to see what produces movement in the direction that you want to tip
the
glass. [Please keep in mind that it is quite easy to severely injure one's
fingers given the mechanical advantages of the lift mechanism - Be
Careful].
If nothing is obviously bent, broken or wrong, my guess is that the track
affixed to the inside of the door inner panel (which serves to anchor an
end of
the slave arm) needs to be re-positioned.
Good luck.
Roy N.
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-----------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Glenn R. Swaney", INTERNET:swaneyg@psci.net
To: Wayne Clifton
What problems are you having? I missed you original post.
swaneyg@psci.net
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---------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
With respect to the gentleman who asked about input on suggestions that he
regularly run a vehicle equipped with an after-market A/C system using
R-134a,
I'd offer the following:
Regular operation of any A/C system to keep the seals lubricated is a good
idea
- even during Winter. In fact, this is one reason why just about all
factory A/C
systems are set up so as to run the A/C compressor when the control is
placed in
the "Defrost" or "de-ice". People may disagree on recommendations as to
the
minimum frequency required, but certainly operation even if the car is not
being
driven is not a bad idea.
When one is dealing with a system using R-134a as the refrigerant, this
regular
operation is twice as important. This is because the "a" suffix is used to
denote the fact that this refrigerant is angiotropic or something like
that.
What it really means is that R-134a is a mixture - which is made up of
molecules
of different sizes. The smaller size molecules obviously tend to leak out
first
through any possible opening. Thus, the proportions of the remaining
mixture can
get out-of-sync after a short time when the system has even a small leak.
Then,
the refrigerant has to be completely evacuated prior to re-charging - and
this
can get expensive.
Thus, my advice would be to go along with the recommendation to run that
compressor every so often.
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-------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
In response to Bill Lewis' question about where to find a '55 license tag
for California plates try:
Bob Duedall
815 N. Lincoln St.
Dixon, CA 95620
(707) 678-9409
He deals in nothing but license plates and makes the rounds of automotive
swapmeets around the state. His stuff is THE BEST.
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Don9802@aol.com
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Don,
In answer to your question about where to find the electrical diagram for a
'57; it's in Section 12 of the "57 Passenger Car Shop Manual" . Look on
the back of the first page in that section. Those books are available
through most restoration parts dealers.
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net, INTERNET:authauto@airmail.net
In response to Mike (M477@Midwest.net), about needing a new radiator:
You can get new ones from Shafers Classic Reproductions. You have
several choices: they manufacture ones that are completely correct in
every detail, including date code and Harrison logo; or you can buy them
without all the "show correct" details; they even sell radiators with
extra cores for better cooling capacity, if that's what you want. All of
these fit and look like the original. Prices are reasonable and vary
according to what you need, from $361.50 on up.
Contact them at www.shafersclassic.com. They are a wholesaler, so they
can't sell directly to you, but they can point you to a dealer near you.
Or contact me and I can have one shipped directly to you (I'm a Shafer's
Dealer).
Good luck!
Steve
Authentic Automotive
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:KIRMAN@softmail.net, INTERNET:KIRMANo@softmail.net
Bob
I think it is terrible that after all you have done for us Tri-Five people,
I have never seen you and this list mentioned in CCI and Bow Tie magazines.
Shame on them.
KIRMAN
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY