TriChrome
03-06-2018, 11:35 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 8:26 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JanMowrey@aol.com, INTERNET:JanMowrey@aol.com
This is to let you know we found the car we were looking for thanks to this
list. Jan Mowrey
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "david elder", INTERNET:delder1@email.msn.com
Is there any one with experience installing a 94 Z28 4L60E trans is a
55-56-57.I have the LT1 engine harness figured out, and have had the fuel
tank modified at Rock Valley and are in the process of modifying the a/c
bracket to clear the frame.
My next stumbling point is the radiator. The Z28 had radiator had a
internal cooler for the trans and also a internal cooler for the engine oil
cooler. Are there any of you that have resolved this problem?
David Elder
E-mail Address(es):
delder1@msn.com
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------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "david elder", INTERNET:delder1@email.msn.com
I am restoring / customizing a 55 chevy hdt and would like comments on what
type / brand of main wiring harness to purchase. The car will have many
custom parts ,engine,electric fuel pump, power windows etc. Thanks
David Elder
E-mail Address(es):
delder1@msn.com
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------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "david elder", INTERNET:delder1@email.msn.com
I am restoring a 55 Chevy Hdt, with a 94 Z28 LT1, 4L60E trans. The original
rear axle is worn out and needs replaced. My stumbling point now is how
strong of a rear end it needs. I am sure the car will not be raced on a
regular basis..only a couple of passes a year during car shows at drag
racing track at most. But I want to feel safe about long distance driving.
a. Would a 10 bolt be adequate for this or must it be a 12 bolt.
b. I have considered a ford 9" but that seems just as expensive and will
have to have the axles drilled for Chevy wheels.
c. As as a last thought just how strong is the original rear and is it
worth rebuilding for this application.
Please comment or e-mail any words of wisdom.
david elder
E-mail Address(es):
delder1@email.msn.com
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------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WINDHAM3@aol.com, INTERNET:WINDHAM3@aol.com
I have some parts to put together the Brake warning light, I do not have
the
switch that goes on the brake mechanism. Anyone have any ideas how to rig
one
up that would work with spending the arm and leg it cost for NOS? Also
looking for 2x4 coil bracket at reasonable price. Thanks
John Windham, windham3@aol.com San Antonio,Texas
Editor's note. I got a new one for $16 here in Southern Calif.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Bobbie.Butler@kyagr.com, INTERNET:Bobbie.Butler@kyagr.com
Bob:
Just wanted to let you know that we sold our 57 4-door. Thanks for posting
it on your listing. The car gets a big move from Kentucky to Arizona.
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-----------------------
From: Editor
One of my friends that does not have e-mail ask for my help in finding a
car appraiser in Southern California. Anyone have any recommendations?
BOB
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-----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "kenneth weinstein", INTERNET:kmw57@hotmail.com
i just got back from carlisle. if anyone wants to buy a 2 year project,
here are a few cars that a guy named Dave in bethlehem, Pennsylvania(phone
610-866-3196) has for sale.(all need extensive work, but he is a bodyman
and
started working on them and now has arthritis and can't finish them:
58 convert., new floors, 348, 3 2-s and a 3-2's aircleaner $10,000
56 convert. with a continental kit $10,000
55 chevy 2 dr. sedan tubbed 9 in. ford rear $ 2,500
55 nomad, new floors $ 5,500
57 2 door hardtop $ 2,500
56 2 door hardtop $ 1,500
55 2 door hardtop $ 1,000
DON"T FORGET-- I STILL HAVE AFTERMARKET SEATCOVERS FOR SALE FOR MOST OLD
CARS FOR $85 PER CAR.
ken weinstein 44 valleybrook ln. east amherst, n.y. 14051 716-689-6888
CALL DAVE, NOT ME ABOUT THE CARS
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Clint Goulet", INTERNET:cgishere2@home.com
I am going to put a high performance 350 in my 57 2 Dr wagon and use either
a HEI type distributor in it. I was wondering if the distributor will clear
the firewall and if not would it be best to move motor mounts forward??? If
anyone has done this let me know!! Thanks so much and great job Bob (as
usual). Take care !!! E-mail at cgishere2@home.com.
Editor's note. When I side mounted my engine, I had to choose which mounts
to use. One set moved the motor forward about 1 inch so a HEI distributor
would fit.
BOB
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---------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Nomadman5@aol.com, INTERNET:Nomadman5@aol.com
I am in-process of restoring my '55 Nomad and was wondering what the story
was with the factory undercoating. The car was completely undercoated that
has been softened by grease and oil leaking from various components so I
started the tedious job of removing ALL of it! My question is did all cars
receive undercoating in the wheelwells and only northern cars get the stem
to stern treatment or ...? I want to red oxide prime the underside of the
floorpan and let the overspray from the paint job lay where it falls. The
wheelwells I would think then would need to be blackened by something.
My other question is what purpose do the lanced tabs in the floor pan under
the rear occupants serve? Thanx.
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-----------------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Francis, Roger D, SITS", INTERNET:rdfrancis@att.com
Bob,
I just wanted to thank everyone (a bunch of people responded....) who sent
me WEB clip art or directed me to sites that had them. This is what the
list
is all about... friends helping friends.
I went to a funeral of the weekend. One of the things people said about the
person who died was that he loved classic cars. He shared his love with
everyone he met. He passed this down to his children and grandchildren who
also love classic cars. He left his wife a fully restored 57 Chevy
convertible that they restored together. She said she could still feel him
beside her when she drove the car because the of the great Love he had for
both of them. That's the way I would like to be remembered too.
Roger Francis
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-----------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "shew", INTERNET:ethan@compunet.net
Hello Everyone,
I have a couple of questions about restorations. First how much does it
cost to powder coat a frame? How much does it cost to have a body dipped. I
would like to build my 57 to handle 400 horse power, will my original stock
rear end handle it? If not what is a good rear end. Finally what do people
have to say about the turbo 350 compared to the 700r4.
Charlie Shew
ethan@compunet.net
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To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "keith chaytor", INTERNET:seckey@iinet.net.au
Good morning Bob,
Could you please post this on your list. Would any one happen to know where
I could possibly get an original 55 Chevy Convert Pedal Car. There were
some dealers that gave these to the people that bought the real 55 convert.
I was after any steel pedal car from the 30s-50s but really prefer the 55
Chevy.
Many thanks,
PETER HALL
email seckey@iinet.net.au
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------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "showtimechevys", INTERNET:showtimechevys@email.msn.com
Bob:
I"ll try to keep this short in reply to three questions for the 7-26-00
letter, and if the individuals want more in depth they can contact me via
E-mail or call me at home after 6PM PST (805) 733-3424.
David Houghton dtkjhoug@earthlink.net
I would suggest that you replace the rusted out areas with new metal
patches
or panels rather than just filling in with traditional body fillers if you
want a permanent repair. I understood the roof problem, this entails
cutting out the rusted area with a die grinder and cut-off wheel, then
fitting a new piece of 18 gauge sheet metal and MIG or TIG welding in
place.
If the headliner is out of car, seal the repair area with POR 15 or a good
primer, Rustoleum,etc. I didn't understand the wiper area, but the 'A'
pillars are a little more involved. This is usually caused by water
entering by a incomplete seam at the top of 'A. pillar even with drip rail
or at the drip rail itself. If the affected area is in the upper pillar,
you can form a replacement patch to repair. If the lower dogleg is rusted
out it gets a little more difficult. A doner car with good sheet metal is
the only choice as Sherman as of yet has no replacement panels available.
You will have to drill out the factory spot welds to remove the outer skin.
There are three layers in the 'A' pillar, and it has been my experience
that
if the outer metal is gone, usually there is also damage to the second
layer
as well. This takes some skill to achieve, and loads of patience, but if
done properly, the fix is permanent.
Michael Sims msims@wilwood.com
It is imperative to brace the door opening on a convertible if it is
removed
from the chassis is was on, I even do the same for a sport coupe. Every
one
has their opinion on how to go about this, it doesn't have to be elaborate.
Remove the doors and hinges, along with the striker plate on the 'B'
pillar.
I used 1" x 2 1/2" rectangular tubing, run from the upper hinge location
to
the striker plate. I cut .125 steel plates to shape, and secured them
with SAE cap screws at both locations. To enable me to reuse this jig on
other cars, I used automotive shims behind the plates before I fit and
welded the brace in place. I then took 2" .125 wall angle, and cut two 2
1/2" tabs to weld to the door cross bar with 3/8" holes drilled in them to
attach the 2" angle cross bar that will go from side to side. To that I
ran two 1 1/2" .125 wall angle braces back to where the convertible top
mounts, which are bolted in place as well with 3/8" cap screws. With this
done you can remove the body and feel con-
fident that everything will remain undamaged in handling whether you
install on a roll cage or just set on saw horses, etc. I have also
fashioned a sling that mounts to the firewall using the hood hinge
locations as a mounting point. At the back you can utilize the rearmost
gas
tank carriage bolt holes with a length of 3/16" wall 2 1/2" angle and
heavy
eye bolts with chain connectors to lift the rear up. A good quality cherry
picker will work quite well, and saves the possibility of having any number
of your friends getting injured by lifting the body off with manpower.
Mark Bach m-bach@juno.com
I live on the central coast in California, and it is not near as hot here
as
in your neck of the woods. For the past few years I have gone to great
lengths on almost every interior that leaves my shop to insulate and sound
deaden the whole interior of 80% of the classics I do. This is even more
important if you will drive your car to various shows all over the
southwest, as it is impossible to not encounter heat where ever you go and
of course the sound issue is always with us. I use a product called
V-block, which is a sound deadening vinyl sheet material that is thinner
than
Dyna Mat, and measures 37" x 54", and is self adhesed. It forms well with
a
heat gun, and will follow every contour of the floor pans and inside inner
surfaces of the doors and quarter panels. I use it in the roof and cover
the inside of the firewall as well. I precut patterns from butcher paper
if
I am doing a particular car for the first time, which helps in laying
out the material for final cutting. This product is superior in that it
will cling in a vertical or horizontal mode, and is so workable on curves
and contours. I finish off the roof area with a double sided mylar sheet
that has a bubble pac in between. The firewall is treated to either the
aluminum layered padding or automotive synthetic 3/8" carpet padding before
installing the firewall pad. Unless the car is a 1000 point item, I
prefer
to use one of Tim Cox's ABS molded firewall pads, as they are far superior
to the original molded pads. I use the synthetic 3/8" carpet pad on the
floor, precisely cut and fit to each vehicle, and glued to only the
transmission tunnel and rear driveshaft tunnel. If your upholstery shop
completely glues the new carpet in place, it is impossible to work on the
car to do additional electrical work, etc., and if for whatever reason the
carpet needs to be removed from the car, it is history. Hope this helps
you out.
As long as I have the floor, I will offer my two cents on the issue of
doing
your own classic or buying a "turn key". Unless you are willing to spend
$20,000 , preferably in the $25,000 to $30,000 range, forget it. I would
also suggest if you are not attuned to what a "nice" classic is, get
someone
who knows what to look for to advise you on a particular car. Too many
times I've seen $15,000 spent on a "driver", only to have another $10,000
invested trying to correct or improve the purchase,and usually not
everything is addressed, which has the owner never 100% happy or content
with "his" classic.
The other issue is, what do you intend to do with your classic? I have seen
many changes over the last 25 years regarding 55-56-57's. Back in 1975,
virtually nobody wanted a "stock" classic Chevy, then in the early 80's the
pendulum swung to restored cars, especially tailored frame off
restorations.
I've been involved in this through my work, and have done many 990+ show
cars. Personally I prefer modified classics that can be driven and
enjoyed.
This is where the trend seems to have gone in the past 5 to 8 years. I'm
not talking pro street cars, but what I call restified classics. These are
updated with crate motors, 350 or 700R transmissions, power disc brakes,
605
power steering, aftermarket air systems, cruise control, and an updated
sound system. If you look at the early Ford crowd, we are somewhat
following that trend, although our beginning "core" is quite a bit more
modern for the starting point. If it can't be driven, there is not quite
the level of interest for participation. My '57 sport coupe with 538,000
on
the odometer speaks volumes for true enjoyment and lasting memories.
Editor's note 538,000 miles on a cars is a remarkable achievement. That
has to be some kind of a record.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Trock1155@aol.com, INTERNET:Trock1155@aol.com
can you send me some info on that 605 box please
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com, INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com
I've been spending alot of time ( and money ) at my "other" hobby,
collecting toy cars ( I've collected 21 full-size model vewhicles, ranging
from AMC Gremlin(s) to 57 Chevy to '55 Suburban to '79 Pacer wagon ), and
there are lots of neat ones out. For those of you who remember Aurora slot
cars, there's been some new bodies made by Johnny Lightning, in the
Thunderjet500 series, of bodies made to resemble some of the old ones, and
the great thing is, they FIT ON THE OLD AURORA CHASSIS's. Just Aurora,
though. Not AFX, or Matchbox ( yes, they made slot cars too ), just the old
Aurora. Anyway, while hitting a major KB toys outlet , I found 4 of the
Nomads, two in pink, and two in purple. I think there's a metallic "chrome"
blue, but haven't run across that one but once. K & B Toys has been
carrying
the blue&yellow boxed Thunderjet cars ( 2.99 - 3.99 each) a lot more of
late,
so they're the best place to look. Wal-mart carried them, but not of late,
and Toys R Us does too, although they're harder to keep in stock there than
K&B, I guess, more traffic. Anyway, just thought I'd give ya a heads up in
the toy world. There's also a new variation on the Hotwheels '56 Chevy
Flashsider truck, it's maroon in color with a gold chrome base on the
bumpers
and grill and underside. Nice looking truck! Just released.
Well, it's back to clean-up and organizing the garage and house again
today, so I guess I won't stay stuck to the monitor for long. Everyone have
a
great end to the weekend!
Jerry Casper
'57 Chevy 210 4-dr sedan
55 2nd Series Chevy Suburban
( and soon my Dad's '57 210 4-dr sedan with PowerPak option! )
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:gpharr@freedom2000net.com,
INTERNET:gpharr@freedom2000net.com
Without a doubt it is cheaper to buy a restored car than to restore it
yourself. Unless you are one of those like I once was and wanted to say
"I did it myself", then you can buy a lot more car for the money than
you can build for the money. If you don't count your time anything and
you can do all the work yourself.... Mabe that's another story.
My two cents worth...
Greg Pharr
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--------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:wmcginnis@usa.norgren.com
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:raorods@erols.com
From: "David Baker", INTERNET:bakernomad@home.com
Wayne & Larry:
You asked about buying 55 and 57 nomads. Do what I did. I joined the
Chevrolet Nomad Association when I was looking for my 57. Found my car in
their newsletter. Then I discovered that the club is populated with high
quality people that we have met at their annual conventions. Just came
back from the 2000 convention in Spokane, WA. There were 94 nomads there,
and a lot of nice people we have seen now in 1997 - Ontario, CA and 1998 -
Frisco, CO. You can contact them at www.chevynomadclub.com. You won't be
sorry.
David Baker
bakernomad@home.com
Sammamish, WA
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:HINOJOSA55@aol.com, INTERNET:HINOJOSA55@aol.com
Bob, I have a 1965 Chevy Impala SS Convetible for sale but would prefer to
TRADE IT for a 1955-56-57 chevy. I'm asking $15,000.oo for this very
nice,no
rust, no patch panels, all new, completely restored Impala I'm looking for
a
complete Hardtop/Convertible/Nomad/Cameo pick-up will consider projects and
baskets cases. of equal value. Call 1-661-834-9505 E-mail
Hinojosa55@aol.com
Thanks Louie Hinojosa I live in Bakersfield Ca. 93313
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------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: INTERNET:LWatts1054@aol.com, INTERNET:LWatts1054@aol.com
thanks bob for the opportunity to advertise some parts in my garage, most
are
55-57, some maybe only specific to the 57 since that is what i have:
1) 57 bumper jack with stand with lug wrench, EXCELLENT CONDITION, $145.
2) 55-57 6 CYL. throttle linkage, (mounts to firewall), like new, $25.
3) 55-57 6CYL. coil bracket, $5.
4) 55-57 REAR OUTSIDE door handles, excellent chrome, $25/pair.
5) 55-57 emergency brake handle, (not chrome handle), EXCELLENT, $30
6) 56 heads, serial #3733365, date C67, non-powerpack, $30
most parts are plus shipping from phoenix, az. 85032
please call lee at (602)867-7640 or email lwatts1054@aol.com.
thank you, lee
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@home.com
Hi all,
I talked to a man on Wed. evening, (July 26th), and he told me the
American Grafitti car is definitely owned by a man here in the Baltimore
area. This man has all the documentation for the car. The man I talked
to knows the owner and said he would speak to him about allowing his
name, e-mail address, or whatever, to be publicized. If I get an okay,
I'll let you all know more about it. Later, Wild Bill
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CT1929@aol.com, INTERNET:CT1929@aol.com
to Bob Ford (unknown)
He Bob, enjoyed reading all the news items and have a message for the
fellow
who is hunting some Nomad parts. I have a friend who is in his 80's,
doesn't
have a computer, but he has a lot of nice chvey parts for the 55-56-57
chevys. and some Nomad items. His name is Earl Davis and he lived in
Arizona for many years and moved back to Indiana, brought a lot of nice
parts
with him. He can tell you almost anything about parts, needs, etc. as he
has
friends who have parts also for these years. His phone number is
765-332-2763. He is super nice fellow and is honest will ship out if
needed.
My give him a call or can email to me ct 1929@aol.com and I will see that
he
gets the message. I have a 57 Nomad which I have owned for over 25 years,
they are great cars. Have a 1955 convertible, turquoise owned for around
22
years, and a 57 chevy convertible owned for around 20 years, they are all
nice collectibles and I agree with the fellow that said get what you can
afford and do the work yourself. I have enjoyed restoring these cars, but
getting in my 70's has slowed me down some. I am selling my 55 210 series,
2
dr. which has frame off restoration. I sent the inform. to this
newsletter.
Keep up the good work guys, this is an interesting part about email,
getting
to know good guys like all of you seem to be. Carl from Ind.
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 8:26 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JanMowrey@aol.com, INTERNET:JanMowrey@aol.com
This is to let you know we found the car we were looking for thanks to this
list. Jan Mowrey
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "david elder", INTERNET:delder1@email.msn.com
Is there any one with experience installing a 94 Z28 4L60E trans is a
55-56-57.I have the LT1 engine harness figured out, and have had the fuel
tank modified at Rock Valley and are in the process of modifying the a/c
bracket to clear the frame.
My next stumbling point is the radiator. The Z28 had radiator had a
internal cooler for the trans and also a internal cooler for the engine oil
cooler. Are there any of you that have resolved this problem?
David Elder
E-mail Address(es):
delder1@msn.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "david elder", INTERNET:delder1@email.msn.com
I am restoring / customizing a 55 chevy hdt and would like comments on what
type / brand of main wiring harness to purchase. The car will have many
custom parts ,engine,electric fuel pump, power windows etc. Thanks
David Elder
E-mail Address(es):
delder1@msn.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "david elder", INTERNET:delder1@email.msn.com
I am restoring a 55 Chevy Hdt, with a 94 Z28 LT1, 4L60E trans. The original
rear axle is worn out and needs replaced. My stumbling point now is how
strong of a rear end it needs. I am sure the car will not be raced on a
regular basis..only a couple of passes a year during car shows at drag
racing track at most. But I want to feel safe about long distance driving.
a. Would a 10 bolt be adequate for this or must it be a 12 bolt.
b. I have considered a ford 9" but that seems just as expensive and will
have to have the axles drilled for Chevy wheels.
c. As as a last thought just how strong is the original rear and is it
worth rebuilding for this application.
Please comment or e-mail any words of wisdom.
david elder
E-mail Address(es):
delder1@email.msn.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WINDHAM3@aol.com, INTERNET:WINDHAM3@aol.com
I have some parts to put together the Brake warning light, I do not have
the
switch that goes on the brake mechanism. Anyone have any ideas how to rig
one
up that would work with spending the arm and leg it cost for NOS? Also
looking for 2x4 coil bracket at reasonable price. Thanks
John Windham, windham3@aol.com San Antonio,Texas
Editor's note. I got a new one for $16 here in Southern Calif.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Bobbie.Butler@kyagr.com, INTERNET:Bobbie.Butler@kyagr.com
Bob:
Just wanted to let you know that we sold our 57 4-door. Thanks for posting
it on your listing. The car gets a big move from Kentucky to Arizona.
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From: Editor
One of my friends that does not have e-mail ask for my help in finding a
car appraiser in Southern California. Anyone have any recommendations?
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "kenneth weinstein", INTERNET:kmw57@hotmail.com
i just got back from carlisle. if anyone wants to buy a 2 year project,
here are a few cars that a guy named Dave in bethlehem, Pennsylvania(phone
610-866-3196) has for sale.(all need extensive work, but he is a bodyman
and
started working on them and now has arthritis and can't finish them:
58 convert., new floors, 348, 3 2-s and a 3-2's aircleaner $10,000
56 convert. with a continental kit $10,000
55 chevy 2 dr. sedan tubbed 9 in. ford rear $ 2,500
55 nomad, new floors $ 5,500
57 2 door hardtop $ 2,500
56 2 door hardtop $ 1,500
55 2 door hardtop $ 1,000
DON"T FORGET-- I STILL HAVE AFTERMARKET SEATCOVERS FOR SALE FOR MOST OLD
CARS FOR $85 PER CAR.
ken weinstein 44 valleybrook ln. east amherst, n.y. 14051 716-689-6888
CALL DAVE, NOT ME ABOUT THE CARS
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Clint Goulet", INTERNET:cgishere2@home.com
I am going to put a high performance 350 in my 57 2 Dr wagon and use either
a HEI type distributor in it. I was wondering if the distributor will clear
the firewall and if not would it be best to move motor mounts forward??? If
anyone has done this let me know!! Thanks so much and great job Bob (as
usual). Take care !!! E-mail at cgishere2@home.com.
Editor's note. When I side mounted my engine, I had to choose which mounts
to use. One set moved the motor forward about 1 inch so a HEI distributor
would fit.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Nomadman5@aol.com, INTERNET:Nomadman5@aol.com
I am in-process of restoring my '55 Nomad and was wondering what the story
was with the factory undercoating. The car was completely undercoated that
has been softened by grease and oil leaking from various components so I
started the tedious job of removing ALL of it! My question is did all cars
receive undercoating in the wheelwells and only northern cars get the stem
to stern treatment or ...? I want to red oxide prime the underside of the
floorpan and let the overspray from the paint job lay where it falls. The
wheelwells I would think then would need to be blackened by something.
My other question is what purpose do the lanced tabs in the floor pan under
the rear occupants serve? Thanx.
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To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Francis, Roger D, SITS", INTERNET:rdfrancis@att.com
Bob,
I just wanted to thank everyone (a bunch of people responded....) who sent
me WEB clip art or directed me to sites that had them. This is what the
list
is all about... friends helping friends.
I went to a funeral of the weekend. One of the things people said about the
person who died was that he loved classic cars. He shared his love with
everyone he met. He passed this down to his children and grandchildren who
also love classic cars. He left his wife a fully restored 57 Chevy
convertible that they restored together. She said she could still feel him
beside her when she drove the car because the of the great Love he had for
both of them. That's the way I would like to be remembered too.
Roger Francis
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "shew", INTERNET:ethan@compunet.net
Hello Everyone,
I have a couple of questions about restorations. First how much does it
cost to powder coat a frame? How much does it cost to have a body dipped. I
would like to build my 57 to handle 400 horse power, will my original stock
rear end handle it? If not what is a good rear end. Finally what do people
have to say about the turbo 350 compared to the 700r4.
Charlie Shew
ethan@compunet.net
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To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "keith chaytor", INTERNET:seckey@iinet.net.au
Good morning Bob,
Could you please post this on your list. Would any one happen to know where
I could possibly get an original 55 Chevy Convert Pedal Car. There were
some dealers that gave these to the people that bought the real 55 convert.
I was after any steel pedal car from the 30s-50s but really prefer the 55
Chevy.
Many thanks,
PETER HALL
email seckey@iinet.net.au
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "showtimechevys", INTERNET:showtimechevys@email.msn.com
Bob:
I"ll try to keep this short in reply to three questions for the 7-26-00
letter, and if the individuals want more in depth they can contact me via
E-mail or call me at home after 6PM PST (805) 733-3424.
David Houghton dtkjhoug@earthlink.net
I would suggest that you replace the rusted out areas with new metal
patches
or panels rather than just filling in with traditional body fillers if you
want a permanent repair. I understood the roof problem, this entails
cutting out the rusted area with a die grinder and cut-off wheel, then
fitting a new piece of 18 gauge sheet metal and MIG or TIG welding in
place.
If the headliner is out of car, seal the repair area with POR 15 or a good
primer, Rustoleum,etc. I didn't understand the wiper area, but the 'A'
pillars are a little more involved. This is usually caused by water
entering by a incomplete seam at the top of 'A. pillar even with drip rail
or at the drip rail itself. If the affected area is in the upper pillar,
you can form a replacement patch to repair. If the lower dogleg is rusted
out it gets a little more difficult. A doner car with good sheet metal is
the only choice as Sherman as of yet has no replacement panels available.
You will have to drill out the factory spot welds to remove the outer skin.
There are three layers in the 'A' pillar, and it has been my experience
that
if the outer metal is gone, usually there is also damage to the second
layer
as well. This takes some skill to achieve, and loads of patience, but if
done properly, the fix is permanent.
Michael Sims msims@wilwood.com
It is imperative to brace the door opening on a convertible if it is
removed
from the chassis is was on, I even do the same for a sport coupe. Every
one
has their opinion on how to go about this, it doesn't have to be elaborate.
Remove the doors and hinges, along with the striker plate on the 'B'
pillar.
I used 1" x 2 1/2" rectangular tubing, run from the upper hinge location
to
the striker plate. I cut .125 steel plates to shape, and secured them
with SAE cap screws at both locations. To enable me to reuse this jig on
other cars, I used automotive shims behind the plates before I fit and
welded the brace in place. I then took 2" .125 wall angle, and cut two 2
1/2" tabs to weld to the door cross bar with 3/8" holes drilled in them to
attach the 2" angle cross bar that will go from side to side. To that I
ran two 1 1/2" .125 wall angle braces back to where the convertible top
mounts, which are bolted in place as well with 3/8" cap screws. With this
done you can remove the body and feel con-
fident that everything will remain undamaged in handling whether you
install on a roll cage or just set on saw horses, etc. I have also
fashioned a sling that mounts to the firewall using the hood hinge
locations as a mounting point. At the back you can utilize the rearmost
gas
tank carriage bolt holes with a length of 3/16" wall 2 1/2" angle and
heavy
eye bolts with chain connectors to lift the rear up. A good quality cherry
picker will work quite well, and saves the possibility of having any number
of your friends getting injured by lifting the body off with manpower.
Mark Bach m-bach@juno.com
I live on the central coast in California, and it is not near as hot here
as
in your neck of the woods. For the past few years I have gone to great
lengths on almost every interior that leaves my shop to insulate and sound
deaden the whole interior of 80% of the classics I do. This is even more
important if you will drive your car to various shows all over the
southwest, as it is impossible to not encounter heat where ever you go and
of course the sound issue is always with us. I use a product called
V-block, which is a sound deadening vinyl sheet material that is thinner
than
Dyna Mat, and measures 37" x 54", and is self adhesed. It forms well with
a
heat gun, and will follow every contour of the floor pans and inside inner
surfaces of the doors and quarter panels. I use it in the roof and cover
the inside of the firewall as well. I precut patterns from butcher paper
if
I am doing a particular car for the first time, which helps in laying
out the material for final cutting. This product is superior in that it
will cling in a vertical or horizontal mode, and is so workable on curves
and contours. I finish off the roof area with a double sided mylar sheet
that has a bubble pac in between. The firewall is treated to either the
aluminum layered padding or automotive synthetic 3/8" carpet padding before
installing the firewall pad. Unless the car is a 1000 point item, I
prefer
to use one of Tim Cox's ABS molded firewall pads, as they are far superior
to the original molded pads. I use the synthetic 3/8" carpet pad on the
floor, precisely cut and fit to each vehicle, and glued to only the
transmission tunnel and rear driveshaft tunnel. If your upholstery shop
completely glues the new carpet in place, it is impossible to work on the
car to do additional electrical work, etc., and if for whatever reason the
carpet needs to be removed from the car, it is history. Hope this helps
you out.
As long as I have the floor, I will offer my two cents on the issue of
doing
your own classic or buying a "turn key". Unless you are willing to spend
$20,000 , preferably in the $25,000 to $30,000 range, forget it. I would
also suggest if you are not attuned to what a "nice" classic is, get
someone
who knows what to look for to advise you on a particular car. Too many
times I've seen $15,000 spent on a "driver", only to have another $10,000
invested trying to correct or improve the purchase,and usually not
everything is addressed, which has the owner never 100% happy or content
with "his" classic.
The other issue is, what do you intend to do with your classic? I have seen
many changes over the last 25 years regarding 55-56-57's. Back in 1975,
virtually nobody wanted a "stock" classic Chevy, then in the early 80's the
pendulum swung to restored cars, especially tailored frame off
restorations.
I've been involved in this through my work, and have done many 990+ show
cars. Personally I prefer modified classics that can be driven and
enjoyed.
This is where the trend seems to have gone in the past 5 to 8 years. I'm
not talking pro street cars, but what I call restified classics. These are
updated with crate motors, 350 or 700R transmissions, power disc brakes,
605
power steering, aftermarket air systems, cruise control, and an updated
sound system. If you look at the early Ford crowd, we are somewhat
following that trend, although our beginning "core" is quite a bit more
modern for the starting point. If it can't be driven, there is not quite
the level of interest for participation. My '57 sport coupe with 538,000
on
the odometer speaks volumes for true enjoyment and lasting memories.
Editor's note 538,000 miles on a cars is a remarkable achievement. That
has to be some kind of a record.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Trock1155@aol.com, INTERNET:Trock1155@aol.com
can you send me some info on that 605 box please
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com, INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com
I've been spending alot of time ( and money ) at my "other" hobby,
collecting toy cars ( I've collected 21 full-size model vewhicles, ranging
from AMC Gremlin(s) to 57 Chevy to '55 Suburban to '79 Pacer wagon ), and
there are lots of neat ones out. For those of you who remember Aurora slot
cars, there's been some new bodies made by Johnny Lightning, in the
Thunderjet500 series, of bodies made to resemble some of the old ones, and
the great thing is, they FIT ON THE OLD AURORA CHASSIS's. Just Aurora,
though. Not AFX, or Matchbox ( yes, they made slot cars too ), just the old
Aurora. Anyway, while hitting a major KB toys outlet , I found 4 of the
Nomads, two in pink, and two in purple. I think there's a metallic "chrome"
blue, but haven't run across that one but once. K & B Toys has been
carrying
the blue&yellow boxed Thunderjet cars ( 2.99 - 3.99 each) a lot more of
late,
so they're the best place to look. Wal-mart carried them, but not of late,
and Toys R Us does too, although they're harder to keep in stock there than
K&B, I guess, more traffic. Anyway, just thought I'd give ya a heads up in
the toy world. There's also a new variation on the Hotwheels '56 Chevy
Flashsider truck, it's maroon in color with a gold chrome base on the
bumpers
and grill and underside. Nice looking truck! Just released.
Well, it's back to clean-up and organizing the garage and house again
today, so I guess I won't stay stuck to the monitor for long. Everyone have
a
great end to the weekend!
Jerry Casper
'57 Chevy 210 4-dr sedan
55 2nd Series Chevy Suburban
( and soon my Dad's '57 210 4-dr sedan with PowerPak option! )
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:gpharr@freedom2000net.com,
INTERNET:gpharr@freedom2000net.com
Without a doubt it is cheaper to buy a restored car than to restore it
yourself. Unless you are one of those like I once was and wanted to say
"I did it myself", then you can buy a lot more car for the money than
you can build for the money. If you don't count your time anything and
you can do all the work yourself.... Mabe that's another story.
My two cents worth...
Greg Pharr
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:wmcginnis@usa.norgren.com
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:raorods@erols.com
From: "David Baker", INTERNET:bakernomad@home.com
Wayne & Larry:
You asked about buying 55 and 57 nomads. Do what I did. I joined the
Chevrolet Nomad Association when I was looking for my 57. Found my car in
their newsletter. Then I discovered that the club is populated with high
quality people that we have met at their annual conventions. Just came
back from the 2000 convention in Spokane, WA. There were 94 nomads there,
and a lot of nice people we have seen now in 1997 - Ontario, CA and 1998 -
Frisco, CO. You can contact them at www.chevynomadclub.com. You won't be
sorry.
David Baker
bakernomad@home.com
Sammamish, WA
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:HINOJOSA55@aol.com, INTERNET:HINOJOSA55@aol.com
Bob, I have a 1965 Chevy Impala SS Convetible for sale but would prefer to
TRADE IT for a 1955-56-57 chevy. I'm asking $15,000.oo for this very
nice,no
rust, no patch panels, all new, completely restored Impala I'm looking for
a
complete Hardtop/Convertible/Nomad/Cameo pick-up will consider projects and
baskets cases. of equal value. Call 1-661-834-9505 E-mail
Hinojosa55@aol.com
Thanks Louie Hinojosa I live in Bakersfield Ca. 93313
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To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: INTERNET:LWatts1054@aol.com, INTERNET:LWatts1054@aol.com
thanks bob for the opportunity to advertise some parts in my garage, most
are
55-57, some maybe only specific to the 57 since that is what i have:
1) 57 bumper jack with stand with lug wrench, EXCELLENT CONDITION, $145.
2) 55-57 6 CYL. throttle linkage, (mounts to firewall), like new, $25.
3) 55-57 6CYL. coil bracket, $5.
4) 55-57 REAR OUTSIDE door handles, excellent chrome, $25/pair.
5) 55-57 emergency brake handle, (not chrome handle), EXCELLENT, $30
6) 56 heads, serial #3733365, date C67, non-powerpack, $30
most parts are plus shipping from phoenix, az. 85032
please call lee at (602)867-7640 or email lwatts1054@aol.com.
thank you, lee
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@home.com
Hi all,
I talked to a man on Wed. evening, (July 26th), and he told me the
American Grafitti car is definitely owned by a man here in the Baltimore
area. This man has all the documentation for the car. The man I talked
to knows the owner and said he would speak to him about allowing his
name, e-mail address, or whatever, to be publicized. If I get an okay,
I'll let you all know more about it. Later, Wild Bill
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CT1929@aol.com, INTERNET:CT1929@aol.com
to Bob Ford (unknown)
He Bob, enjoyed reading all the news items and have a message for the
fellow
who is hunting some Nomad parts. I have a friend who is in his 80's,
doesn't
have a computer, but he has a lot of nice chvey parts for the 55-56-57
chevys. and some Nomad items. His name is Earl Davis and he lived in
Arizona for many years and moved back to Indiana, brought a lot of nice
parts
with him. He can tell you almost anything about parts, needs, etc. as he
has
friends who have parts also for these years. His phone number is
765-332-2763. He is super nice fellow and is honest will ship out if
needed.
My give him a call or can email to me ct 1929@aol.com and I will see that
he
gets the message. I have a 57 Nomad which I have owned for over 25 years,
they are great cars. Have a 1955 convertible, turquoise owned for around
22
years, and a 57 chevy convertible owned for around 20 years, they are all
nice collectibles and I agree with the fellow that said get what you can
afford and do the work yourself. I have enjoyed restoring these cars, but
getting in my 70's has slowed me down some. I am selling my 55 210 series,
2
dr. which has frame off restoration. I sent the inform. to this
newsletter.
Keep up the good work guys, this is an interesting part about email,
getting
to know good guys like all of you seem to be. Carl from Ind.
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY