TriChrome
03-06-2018, 11:38 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 7:54 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "Tom Mueller", INTERNET:blt@west.net
Have a "55" and need to have the jamb locks and latches replated(the
original plating has broken down and rust is appearing). Eastman offers
a do it yourself zinc tin plating system which they suggest you finished
off with a coat of Niloc to insure better corrosion resistance.
Has anyone used this system? What do you think about it? Any other
suggestions?
Using Niloc leads me to believe that the plating you receive using their
system is more cosmetic than functional and should not be confuse with
the hardness and durability of the OEM PLATING. Any thoughts along this
line??
Thanks for you ideas.
Tom
Ventura County Chevys
Simi Valley, Ca
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
There is a web site my daughter referred me to about the 8/19 Woodward
avenue cruise. Among other things is a stretched '57 4door. I enjoyed
memory lane - you might, also.
www.dreamcruise.org/photo_gallery.html
Sandy Pierce
Salt Lake City, Utah
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Paul Murrray", INTERNET:bclpmurray@ozemail.com.au
G'day Bob and List members
A while ago I bought a 56 210 4Dr sedan originally delivered Right Hand
Drive in Australia. It is still on its original Licence Plates & as far as
I
know has not ever been off the road (for long) still has original 235 six,
all you could get in Oz at the time ,(has been rebuilt) the last owner has
installed a full synchro 3spd column shift from a local GM Holden. I am
thinking seriously of converting her to V8 column auto. I don't want to
"molest" a numbers matching car that must have some history But I really
do
want a V8 and don't want to do anything that can't be undone. (I don't want
to cut the floor unnecessarily)
I will probably keep the six in the shed with all its bits.
So I am looking for the parts to convert 3on the tree to column
auto ,like
dash and gear indicator & pedal assbly, if any list members have them in
their shed. I should be able to pickup an engine & trans out here but I
don't know about parts like the dash & Operating levers or if I can use the
original column.
Any comments most welcome.
Regards Paul
PS Bob U R doing a great job!!!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com, INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com
From: INTERNET:SMK4949@aol.com,
Hey James, great to hear that 700r4 did you good and had a wonderful
time.
You knew that 56 was just itching to hit the highway after that extended
rest.......
Good to hear from you James!
Smokey, Moderator, ChevyTalk.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
-------------------------------------------
Hi Smokey,
How's it going buddy! :o)
You know it, I started out Cruising at normal speed 55 / 65 when I started
to
hit the major Hi Ways even the tractor trailers were driving around 75 /
80.
So when in Rome, Do as the Romans. So to keep up with traffic I was
compelled to accelerate ;o) At 85 & then some the Chevy was driving like a
dream. The RPM's were somewhere around 2200 RPM's & No Driveline
Vibrations.
As you know the whole mechanical workings of my 56 were just done about a
year ago, Complete Chassis, Suspension ( Springs - Shocks ) Steering,
Engine
- Transmission, Power Disc Brakes, Radial Tires & Electrical System. All I
have to say is the trip to Ohio was 11 hours of Classic Chevy Driving Bliss
LOL
James ..... Chevy156@aol.com
ChevyTalk.com ....... Moderator
PS: By the way the comment about slowing down to let people see your
Classic
Chevy Is nice, But Who Can Forget The Old Chevy That Gave Them Wip Lash
Trying To Catch A Glance At ;o) !!!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Sirkal, INTERNET:asirk@telus.net
Hey Ian and everyone wondering about Canadian Chevy serial numbers;
I have the code breakdowns thanks to an article in the Bow Times from back
in 1992.
You can also have GM send you a "Build Sheet" -taken from their original
records, which will include your serial numbers, key numbers and a few
other
things as well as the actual day that your car was built! The phone number
is 1-800-263-3777. Just call them with your serial number ready. If it
has
changed, call GM Canada and they may have the current number. It costs
about $25- $30 for the service, but it's a neat thing to have.
Below is what I can tell you, referring to the said article.
Later,
Albert Sirk
Surrey, BC
>From the example sent in by Ian, here is the break down for his car:
Serial=71037D660341
7 = 1957
1037 = (model) -2 door hardtop
D = Bel Air
660341 = production number
Eng=9263698
9 = Automatic transmission.
2 = 6 cylinder
63698 = production number
Style=1037D
Same as above, Bel Air, 2 door hardtop
Paint=1007
Paint colour, Imperial Ivory.
Trim=676
Interior trim material colour scheme (Same as American codes) = Black and
Red cloth, Red imitation leather.
Body No=2279
Body production number
B.S.O.=372
Body Standard Option = Power Steering.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Arlen Corp, INTERNET:nomader@pacificcoast.net
Hi Bob;
this is in response to Ian in Winnipeg with the Canadian built 57.
Serial # = 7 (Model Year) 1037D (Model B/A 2 door H/T) 6 (6 cyl engine)
60341 (vehicle production #)
Engine # = 9 (Automatic transmission, the 9 is missing if it's a std)
263698 (engine production #; 57 6 cylinders started @ 199001)
Style = 1037D, Bel-Air 2 door Hardtop
Paint = 1007 solid Imperial Ivory
Trim = 676 Black & Red cloth with "red imitation leather"
Body # = self explanatory
BSO 372 = Padded Dash
Hopes this helps, anyone else need help decoding Canadian built cowl
tags feel free to email me at nomader@pacificcoast.net, or check into
article I wrote for September and October 1992 issues of Bow Tie Chevys
"Bow Times".
Kind Regards
Arlen
--------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Dover57@aol.com, INTERNET:Dover57@aol.com
I've been reading on recent lists about the topic of restoration vs.
buying,
including the point of not getting a realistic return on the investment.
I'm
just about at the end of a 3 1/2 plus year restoration of a 57 convert. I'd
like to give our subscribers my
ideas concerning restoration, etc.
First of all, finding the car was your typical scenario of a project
abandoned; in this case, in the early 1980's-probably around '82. I saw an
ad
for the car in Feb. of 1996. I went to take a look, about a 3 1/2 hour
drive
to a small town in New England. The car was in the corner of a barn that
showed an awful lot of daylight from the inside.
The body had been taken off of the frame and then put back on unattached.
Piled inside were many parts in varying degrees of condition, What helped
me
do a mental inventory was that I had a hardtop and basically knew what I
was
looking for.
Someone had started the resto.-blasted a good part of the entire body and
then apparently left it unsealed. In certain areas ithe rust was quite deep
but I figured that enough of the car was solid enough for the project.
Also,
I had read the compilation of the Peggy Sue restoration. Some of the harder
to find parts were there-others weren't-such as the seats and the top
switch.
If the convert, top frame and windshield stainless were gone, I would have
walked away from it. As it turns out, I haggled a bit with the seller -we
agreed to what I think was a fair price-and he also agreed to flat -bed it
to
me. I gave him a deposit and for most of the ride home I
kept thinking about all the pictures I had seen of these cars in much worse
shape!
That seemed reassuring to me-I had helped a friend with parts of his
restoration of the same car. I guess I knew what I was getting into but one
is never totally prepared for" what's down the road." Now that the dream is
about to come true I must
admit that there is a genuine sense of accomplishment that goes with a
restoration that is done, at least for the most part, by yourself. I'd like
to offer some advise to those fellow enthusiasts who are considering a
frame
off.
1)Do it with your spouse's blessing. I agreed to remodel the kitchen and
add
a new bathroom BEFORE I stared the car!
2)Let people, friends and family alike, say that you're crazy.
3)Find out which of your friends are willing to crawl under the car with
you
in your garage in the middle of winter.
4)Go to swap meets, even if it's raing like hell.
5)Keep searching classified ads whenever possible. This is a true
story........
I HAD BEEN BUYING THE SAME REGIONAL AUTO PUB. FOR WEEKS, PROBABLY MONTHS.
WHAT I USUALLY SAW WERE MANY OF THE SAME ADS REPEATED. ALSO, ALOT OF
"JUNQUE". WELL, THIS ONE WED. (THE DAY
IT HITS THE NEWSTANDS) I WAS SERIOUSLY THINKING ABOUT NOT BUYING IT
ANYMORE-MAYBE ALL THOSE DOLLARS FOR LOTTERY TICKETS?
FOR WHATEVER REASON, I PICKED ONE UP AND THREW IT ON THE SEAT=THINKING
"I'LL
LOOK AT IT LATER...PROBABLY NOTHING." SOMETIME LATER I TURNED TO THE PARTS
SECTION--I COULDN'T BELIEVE MY EYES=THERE IT WAS: 1957 chevrolet two door
front seat. very good condition $300. I must have looked like the kid in
the
movie who saw the BB Rifle for the first time. I called and the guy told me
that he had the seat in storage above his body shop, which was now selling
and retiring, for 25 years! He lived about a half an hour
from me. I had gone to numerous swap meets and combed the class, for months
and had never seen anything decent. Sure, there were seats for $500. that
looked like jumbo had been driving..I mean almost pancakes. So now..is this
on the level?
He told me that he would bring it home from the shop the next day. After
work
I raced over and as I pulled up to the house I could see from the distance
a
silver and black Bel-Air seat. sticking out from the bed in his pick-up.
Before I rang the bell I took a look-exceptional condition-all there and
solid-no rust-the bottom tracks still had the factory lube on them.When I
met
the owner he opened his garage door and showed me his 57 hdtp, Black
w/black
custom interior with bucket seats. He had the cars since the early 70's and
had put the seat up in his loft and forgotten about it. He was a real nice
guy-he showed me all of his other project parts in his basement-50 Merc.
parts. Olds convert. etc. he sold me the seat for 275. A few months later I
bought a rusty back seat for $300, and ended up using a mig welder and
other
necessary stuff to restore the bottom
seat=many hours and tricky work.
This is getting pretty long I guess. Maybe I'll finish the rest of my
advise
column at a later date. In closing, think with your head, not your heart
but
remember, it's what's in your heart that allows yoy to finish the car!
such as seats and the top switch
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "David Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com
My '57 handyman wagon has a habit of spewing and burping gas. When filling
it, the automatic shutoff of the service station gas pumps waits until gas
is almost at the top of the fill pipe before stopping. Consequently gas
will spew out over my tail light and bumper. Also, after putting the OEM
locking cap back on, some gas sometimes burps past the cap when driving. I
have not done any troubleshooting about this yet, so any suggestions would
be helpful.
Thanks,
Dave
Editor's note. Dave I had a Buick that did the same thing when I filled the
gas tank too full.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "David Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com
Bob,
This is in response to modified or stock price desirability:
You may put this on the list if you wish or you may incorporate into some
future editorial comment. I just didn't want to clutter the list with my
verbose point of view.
Stock or modified, you are simply selling to two different markets. True
collectors will want a stock vehicle and pay top price for it, but how many
buyers are there with really deep pockets who want to buy a museum piece,
and never drive it. For them rarity, and ageless desirability are the key
to value. For them the once worn or damaged, and then restored version
won't be as valuable as the pristine original that someone locked away
decades ago. With enough money any car could be restored, but even once a
flawless beauty, the original, in true showroom condition would fetch more
because it can't easily be duplicated. Early hot rods have made their way
into concourse events and auctions demonstrating that older modifications
are acceptable by many collectors also.
I believe there is a much larger market which like the general looks of a
Tri5 Chevy, but want to be able to drive them, show them, and have fun with
them. For them a reasonably powerful modified or original V8, custom
wheels, maybe power steering and/or power brakes makes the car more
drivable
and "sporty". This latter category would encompass the cars of most of the
enthusiasts I know own. For the majority of potential buyers looking at
two
cars, which are in similar 2, 3 or 4 condition, the one having some
modifications such as custom wheels, power steering/brakes or shinny paint
make the car either look better, or drive better so the purchase of a cool
looking drivable car can be justified easier. This is not to suggest they
will pay for the cost of the modifications, but that the modifications
don't
detract from the value. With this larger market demand for looks,
drivability, and reliability the prices of the cars goes up. The same
explanation holds true for all conditions, but when you start comparing #1
examples or real projects you need to account for the level of modification
the buyer wants. Most of the modified #1 condition cars are heavily
modified with high performance parts chrome, paint and billet. They would
certainly fetch a high price, but at a loss for the owner who paid for all
the modifications. That $3000 dollar Tri5 that when from the showroom to
storage until the new century, could sell for the same or more or at less,
but with a perceived appreciation of value.
In other words anyone could put lots of money into a Tri5 if they only
wanted to recover a small fraction if they sold it. The pristine original
will retain it's value better if the condition can be maintained. Modify
the car to the level that you the owner will most enjoy the car. If you
want an original car for your personal museum, and can keep the condition
unworn do it, but if you want to drive it, and put some wear or damage on
some parts, modify the areas you want so you enjoy it.
The market for heavily customized Tri5's appears to be relatively small
because they are such great looking cars to start with, and owners tastes
and condition will be the big factors in price.
I have a typically modified, '57 150 handyman with a stock appearing body,
and '57 4dr hardtop project car. The preceding is my point of view and
bias, but I do not mean to detract from anyone who enjoy an unmolested
Tri5,
or enjoys driving a car with manual brakes, manual steering or without a
radio, A/C or seat belts.
Thanks,
Dave
P.S. I know some items I mentioned were options on the cars, but they are
also common upgrades people make to these cars.
Editor's note. Dave, thanks for sending this in. I welcome everyone's
opinion.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MAlercia@aol.com, INTERNET:MAlercia@aol.com
thanks bob for your repose i have a 56 chevy and on the dash where the
speaker is it says delray sport special ! is this a option or did someone
just
put this emblem on there because no one around here has ever heard of a
sport
special. if anyone has ever heard of such of thing please let me know. the
car is from CA . THANK YOU MALERCIA@AOL.COM
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: "FORD, BOB", BOB_FORD
From: "gpharr", INTERNET:gpharr@freedom2000net.com
BOB FORD wrote:
> I invite list members to tell me if a modified cars has more, less, or
the
> same value as an unmodified one
>
> BOB
I have collected and watched 55-6 & 7 prices for the biggest part of my
life
(over 35 years) and to me it all goes back to the quality of the car. A
modified car with the right modifications and quality work will bring
prices
equal to an original car (same point car). The problem with pricing cars in
general is, all cars are different. Everybody's number 1 condition is not
the
same. Some peoples version of perfect is not the same as mine. I love them
both
and respect peoples choices to restore original or modified. It has a lot
to
do with what you intend to do with the car. I have build 100 point show
cars,
and I have owned modified cars. I must say that you can enjoy a modified
driver more than you can enjoy a 100 point show car that you rub on all
time
and never drive.
My Two Cents Worth,
Greg Pharr
Belmont, MS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:matt.waldie@attws.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com, INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com
To answer Matt in TX about a national Chevy club, Vintage Chevrolet Club of
America is national and worldwide and welcomes all years and types of
Chevrolets. VCCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to the restoration
and preservation of Chevrolets from 1911 to 1975. That may sound like they
do not like modified cars but there are a lot of modified cars in the club.
National membership is $25 and includes a great magazine.
Go to the website at http://www.classicar.com/clubs/vccaclub/vccaclub.htm
These 3 email addresses are Texas folks who have their email addresses
listed
on the VCCA website:
sdolle@axs4u.net
jerry76013@aol.com
wtb@swbell.net
Dennis McGillis
VCCA Orange County Region (CA)
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
From: Editor
>From time to time I post some trivia questions on this list. I must tell
you their are some very
sharp people on the list and every trivia question I have posted has
several people with the correct answer.
Here is a harder question. If you know the answer to this, you really know
about cars.
The 1961-63 Pontiac Tempest has a very unusual motor. It was 194.5 cid.
If you looked at the motor
you could tell how Pontiac developed it. How did Pontiac create this
unusual motor? The drive shaft was also very unusual. This type of drive
shaft has never been used since 1963 on any American or foreign car sold
here. What was so unusual about this drive shaft.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 7:54 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "Tom Mueller", INTERNET:blt@west.net
Have a "55" and need to have the jamb locks and latches replated(the
original plating has broken down and rust is appearing). Eastman offers
a do it yourself zinc tin plating system which they suggest you finished
off with a coat of Niloc to insure better corrosion resistance.
Has anyone used this system? What do you think about it? Any other
suggestions?
Using Niloc leads me to believe that the plating you receive using their
system is more cosmetic than functional and should not be confuse with
the hardness and durability of the OEM PLATING. Any thoughts along this
line??
Thanks for you ideas.
Tom
Ventura County Chevys
Simi Valley, Ca
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
There is a web site my daughter referred me to about the 8/19 Woodward
avenue cruise. Among other things is a stretched '57 4door. I enjoyed
memory lane - you might, also.
www.dreamcruise.org/photo_gallery.html
Sandy Pierce
Salt Lake City, Utah
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Paul Murrray", INTERNET:bclpmurray@ozemail.com.au
G'day Bob and List members
A while ago I bought a 56 210 4Dr sedan originally delivered Right Hand
Drive in Australia. It is still on its original Licence Plates & as far as
I
know has not ever been off the road (for long) still has original 235 six,
all you could get in Oz at the time ,(has been rebuilt) the last owner has
installed a full synchro 3spd column shift from a local GM Holden. I am
thinking seriously of converting her to V8 column auto. I don't want to
"molest" a numbers matching car that must have some history But I really
do
want a V8 and don't want to do anything that can't be undone. (I don't want
to cut the floor unnecessarily)
I will probably keep the six in the shed with all its bits.
So I am looking for the parts to convert 3on the tree to column
auto ,like
dash and gear indicator & pedal assbly, if any list members have them in
their shed. I should be able to pickup an engine & trans out here but I
don't know about parts like the dash & Operating levers or if I can use the
original column.
Any comments most welcome.
Regards Paul
PS Bob U R doing a great job!!!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com, INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com
From: INTERNET:SMK4949@aol.com,
Hey James, great to hear that 700r4 did you good and had a wonderful
time.
You knew that 56 was just itching to hit the highway after that extended
rest.......
Good to hear from you James!
Smokey, Moderator, ChevyTalk.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
-------------------------------------------
Hi Smokey,
How's it going buddy! :o)
You know it, I started out Cruising at normal speed 55 / 65 when I started
to
hit the major Hi Ways even the tractor trailers were driving around 75 /
80.
So when in Rome, Do as the Romans. So to keep up with traffic I was
compelled to accelerate ;o) At 85 & then some the Chevy was driving like a
dream. The RPM's were somewhere around 2200 RPM's & No Driveline
Vibrations.
As you know the whole mechanical workings of my 56 were just done about a
year ago, Complete Chassis, Suspension ( Springs - Shocks ) Steering,
Engine
- Transmission, Power Disc Brakes, Radial Tires & Electrical System. All I
have to say is the trip to Ohio was 11 hours of Classic Chevy Driving Bliss
LOL
James ..... Chevy156@aol.com
ChevyTalk.com ....... Moderator
PS: By the way the comment about slowing down to let people see your
Classic
Chevy Is nice, But Who Can Forget The Old Chevy That Gave Them Wip Lash
Trying To Catch A Glance At ;o) !!!!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Sirkal, INTERNET:asirk@telus.net
Hey Ian and everyone wondering about Canadian Chevy serial numbers;
I have the code breakdowns thanks to an article in the Bow Times from back
in 1992.
You can also have GM send you a "Build Sheet" -taken from their original
records, which will include your serial numbers, key numbers and a few
other
things as well as the actual day that your car was built! The phone number
is 1-800-263-3777. Just call them with your serial number ready. If it
has
changed, call GM Canada and they may have the current number. It costs
about $25- $30 for the service, but it's a neat thing to have.
Below is what I can tell you, referring to the said article.
Later,
Albert Sirk
Surrey, BC
>From the example sent in by Ian, here is the break down for his car:
Serial=71037D660341
7 = 1957
1037 = (model) -2 door hardtop
D = Bel Air
660341 = production number
Eng=9263698
9 = Automatic transmission.
2 = 6 cylinder
63698 = production number
Style=1037D
Same as above, Bel Air, 2 door hardtop
Paint=1007
Paint colour, Imperial Ivory.
Trim=676
Interior trim material colour scheme (Same as American codes) = Black and
Red cloth, Red imitation leather.
Body No=2279
Body production number
B.S.O.=372
Body Standard Option = Power Steering.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Arlen Corp, INTERNET:nomader@pacificcoast.net
Hi Bob;
this is in response to Ian in Winnipeg with the Canadian built 57.
Serial # = 7 (Model Year) 1037D (Model B/A 2 door H/T) 6 (6 cyl engine)
60341 (vehicle production #)
Engine # = 9 (Automatic transmission, the 9 is missing if it's a std)
263698 (engine production #; 57 6 cylinders started @ 199001)
Style = 1037D, Bel-Air 2 door Hardtop
Paint = 1007 solid Imperial Ivory
Trim = 676 Black & Red cloth with "red imitation leather"
Body # = self explanatory
BSO 372 = Padded Dash
Hopes this helps, anyone else need help decoding Canadian built cowl
tags feel free to email me at nomader@pacificcoast.net, or check into
article I wrote for September and October 1992 issues of Bow Tie Chevys
"Bow Times".
Kind Regards
Arlen
--------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Dover57@aol.com, INTERNET:Dover57@aol.com
I've been reading on recent lists about the topic of restoration vs.
buying,
including the point of not getting a realistic return on the investment.
I'm
just about at the end of a 3 1/2 plus year restoration of a 57 convert. I'd
like to give our subscribers my
ideas concerning restoration, etc.
First of all, finding the car was your typical scenario of a project
abandoned; in this case, in the early 1980's-probably around '82. I saw an
ad
for the car in Feb. of 1996. I went to take a look, about a 3 1/2 hour
drive
to a small town in New England. The car was in the corner of a barn that
showed an awful lot of daylight from the inside.
The body had been taken off of the frame and then put back on unattached.
Piled inside were many parts in varying degrees of condition, What helped
me
do a mental inventory was that I had a hardtop and basically knew what I
was
looking for.
Someone had started the resto.-blasted a good part of the entire body and
then apparently left it unsealed. In certain areas ithe rust was quite deep
but I figured that enough of the car was solid enough for the project.
Also,
I had read the compilation of the Peggy Sue restoration. Some of the harder
to find parts were there-others weren't-such as the seats and the top
switch.
If the convert, top frame and windshield stainless were gone, I would have
walked away from it. As it turns out, I haggled a bit with the seller -we
agreed to what I think was a fair price-and he also agreed to flat -bed it
to
me. I gave him a deposit and for most of the ride home I
kept thinking about all the pictures I had seen of these cars in much worse
shape!
That seemed reassuring to me-I had helped a friend with parts of his
restoration of the same car. I guess I knew what I was getting into but one
is never totally prepared for" what's down the road." Now that the dream is
about to come true I must
admit that there is a genuine sense of accomplishment that goes with a
restoration that is done, at least for the most part, by yourself. I'd like
to offer some advise to those fellow enthusiasts who are considering a
frame
off.
1)Do it with your spouse's blessing. I agreed to remodel the kitchen and
add
a new bathroom BEFORE I stared the car!
2)Let people, friends and family alike, say that you're crazy.
3)Find out which of your friends are willing to crawl under the car with
you
in your garage in the middle of winter.
4)Go to swap meets, even if it's raing like hell.
5)Keep searching classified ads whenever possible. This is a true
story........
I HAD BEEN BUYING THE SAME REGIONAL AUTO PUB. FOR WEEKS, PROBABLY MONTHS.
WHAT I USUALLY SAW WERE MANY OF THE SAME ADS REPEATED. ALSO, ALOT OF
"JUNQUE". WELL, THIS ONE WED. (THE DAY
IT HITS THE NEWSTANDS) I WAS SERIOUSLY THINKING ABOUT NOT BUYING IT
ANYMORE-MAYBE ALL THOSE DOLLARS FOR LOTTERY TICKETS?
FOR WHATEVER REASON, I PICKED ONE UP AND THREW IT ON THE SEAT=THINKING
"I'LL
LOOK AT IT LATER...PROBABLY NOTHING." SOMETIME LATER I TURNED TO THE PARTS
SECTION--I COULDN'T BELIEVE MY EYES=THERE IT WAS: 1957 chevrolet two door
front seat. very good condition $300. I must have looked like the kid in
the
movie who saw the BB Rifle for the first time. I called and the guy told me
that he had the seat in storage above his body shop, which was now selling
and retiring, for 25 years! He lived about a half an hour
from me. I had gone to numerous swap meets and combed the class, for months
and had never seen anything decent. Sure, there were seats for $500. that
looked like jumbo had been driving..I mean almost pancakes. So now..is this
on the level?
He told me that he would bring it home from the shop the next day. After
work
I raced over and as I pulled up to the house I could see from the distance
a
silver and black Bel-Air seat. sticking out from the bed in his pick-up.
Before I rang the bell I took a look-exceptional condition-all there and
solid-no rust-the bottom tracks still had the factory lube on them.When I
met
the owner he opened his garage door and showed me his 57 hdtp, Black
w/black
custom interior with bucket seats. He had the cars since the early 70's and
had put the seat up in his loft and forgotten about it. He was a real nice
guy-he showed me all of his other project parts in his basement-50 Merc.
parts. Olds convert. etc. he sold me the seat for 275. A few months later I
bought a rusty back seat for $300, and ended up using a mig welder and
other
necessary stuff to restore the bottom
seat=many hours and tricky work.
This is getting pretty long I guess. Maybe I'll finish the rest of my
advise
column at a later date. In closing, think with your head, not your heart
but
remember, it's what's in your heart that allows yoy to finish the car!
such as seats and the top switch
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "David Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com
My '57 handyman wagon has a habit of spewing and burping gas. When filling
it, the automatic shutoff of the service station gas pumps waits until gas
is almost at the top of the fill pipe before stopping. Consequently gas
will spew out over my tail light and bumper. Also, after putting the OEM
locking cap back on, some gas sometimes burps past the cap when driving. I
have not done any troubleshooting about this yet, so any suggestions would
be helpful.
Thanks,
Dave
Editor's note. Dave I had a Buick that did the same thing when I filled the
gas tank too full.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "David Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com
Bob,
This is in response to modified or stock price desirability:
You may put this on the list if you wish or you may incorporate into some
future editorial comment. I just didn't want to clutter the list with my
verbose point of view.
Stock or modified, you are simply selling to two different markets. True
collectors will want a stock vehicle and pay top price for it, but how many
buyers are there with really deep pockets who want to buy a museum piece,
and never drive it. For them rarity, and ageless desirability are the key
to value. For them the once worn or damaged, and then restored version
won't be as valuable as the pristine original that someone locked away
decades ago. With enough money any car could be restored, but even once a
flawless beauty, the original, in true showroom condition would fetch more
because it can't easily be duplicated. Early hot rods have made their way
into concourse events and auctions demonstrating that older modifications
are acceptable by many collectors also.
I believe there is a much larger market which like the general looks of a
Tri5 Chevy, but want to be able to drive them, show them, and have fun with
them. For them a reasonably powerful modified or original V8, custom
wheels, maybe power steering and/or power brakes makes the car more
drivable
and "sporty". This latter category would encompass the cars of most of the
enthusiasts I know own. For the majority of potential buyers looking at
two
cars, which are in similar 2, 3 or 4 condition, the one having some
modifications such as custom wheels, power steering/brakes or shinny paint
make the car either look better, or drive better so the purchase of a cool
looking drivable car can be justified easier. This is not to suggest they
will pay for the cost of the modifications, but that the modifications
don't
detract from the value. With this larger market demand for looks,
drivability, and reliability the prices of the cars goes up. The same
explanation holds true for all conditions, but when you start comparing #1
examples or real projects you need to account for the level of modification
the buyer wants. Most of the modified #1 condition cars are heavily
modified with high performance parts chrome, paint and billet. They would
certainly fetch a high price, but at a loss for the owner who paid for all
the modifications. That $3000 dollar Tri5 that when from the showroom to
storage until the new century, could sell for the same or more or at less,
but with a perceived appreciation of value.
In other words anyone could put lots of money into a Tri5 if they only
wanted to recover a small fraction if they sold it. The pristine original
will retain it's value better if the condition can be maintained. Modify
the car to the level that you the owner will most enjoy the car. If you
want an original car for your personal museum, and can keep the condition
unworn do it, but if you want to drive it, and put some wear or damage on
some parts, modify the areas you want so you enjoy it.
The market for heavily customized Tri5's appears to be relatively small
because they are such great looking cars to start with, and owners tastes
and condition will be the big factors in price.
I have a typically modified, '57 150 handyman with a stock appearing body,
and '57 4dr hardtop project car. The preceding is my point of view and
bias, but I do not mean to detract from anyone who enjoy an unmolested
Tri5,
or enjoys driving a car with manual brakes, manual steering or without a
radio, A/C or seat belts.
Thanks,
Dave
P.S. I know some items I mentioned were options on the cars, but they are
also common upgrades people make to these cars.
Editor's note. Dave, thanks for sending this in. I welcome everyone's
opinion.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MAlercia@aol.com, INTERNET:MAlercia@aol.com
thanks bob for your repose i have a 56 chevy and on the dash where the
speaker is it says delray sport special ! is this a option or did someone
just
put this emblem on there because no one around here has ever heard of a
sport
special. if anyone has ever heard of such of thing please let me know. the
car is from CA . THANK YOU MALERCIA@AOL.COM
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: "FORD, BOB", BOB_FORD
From: "gpharr", INTERNET:gpharr@freedom2000net.com
BOB FORD wrote:
> I invite list members to tell me if a modified cars has more, less, or
the
> same value as an unmodified one
>
> BOB
I have collected and watched 55-6 & 7 prices for the biggest part of my
life
(over 35 years) and to me it all goes back to the quality of the car. A
modified car with the right modifications and quality work will bring
prices
equal to an original car (same point car). The problem with pricing cars in
general is, all cars are different. Everybody's number 1 condition is not
the
same. Some peoples version of perfect is not the same as mine. I love them
both
and respect peoples choices to restore original or modified. It has a lot
to
do with what you intend to do with the car. I have build 100 point show
cars,
and I have owned modified cars. I must say that you can enjoy a modified
driver more than you can enjoy a 100 point show car that you rub on all
time
and never drive.
My Two Cents Worth,
Greg Pharr
Belmont, MS
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:matt.waldie@attws.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com, INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com
To answer Matt in TX about a national Chevy club, Vintage Chevrolet Club of
America is national and worldwide and welcomes all years and types of
Chevrolets. VCCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to the restoration
and preservation of Chevrolets from 1911 to 1975. That may sound like they
do not like modified cars but there are a lot of modified cars in the club.
National membership is $25 and includes a great magazine.
Go to the website at http://www.classicar.com/clubs/vccaclub/vccaclub.htm
These 3 email addresses are Texas folks who have their email addresses
listed
on the VCCA website:
sdolle@axs4u.net
jerry76013@aol.com
wtb@swbell.net
Dennis McGillis
VCCA Orange County Region (CA)
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
From: Editor
>From time to time I post some trivia questions on this list. I must tell
you their are some very
sharp people on the list and every trivia question I have posted has
several people with the correct answer.
Here is a harder question. If you know the answer to this, you really know
about cars.
The 1961-63 Pontiac Tempest has a very unusual motor. It was 194.5 cid.
If you looked at the motor
you could tell how Pontiac developed it. How did Pontiac create this
unusual motor? The drive shaft was also very unusual. This type of drive
shaft has never been used since 1963 on any American or foreign car sold
here. What was so unusual about this drive shaft.
BOB
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---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY