TriChrome
03-06-2018, 11:46 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 7:05 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JHCHEVYPARTS@aol.com, INTERNET:JHCHEVYPARTS@aol.com
Probably have the firewall, also. No doors, though. Jay
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:DPete57@aol.com, INTERNET:DPete57@aol.com
Bob, the hubs & bearings from 64 to 72 full size Chevy's will work on 55-57
Chevy's. Check CCI's Tech Manual's for info about this upgrade plus
tranny's
plus many other changes you can make by visiting your local wrecking yard &
reading your tech manual. If CCI & Bow Tie weren't there to help you would
have a long way to go to get the info you need. I have worked on these cars
since I was 17 in 1958 . The cars are as valuable stock as they are
modified
so have fun & build them the way you want & enjoy them. Don(Pipes)Peterson
,
'57's, Rock & Roll, & Buddy Holly Forever
PS If you want to hear a good tune pick up Eric Clapton's "Rock&Roll Heart"
from his "Money& Cigarrettes" Album. "I get off on '57 Chevy's"
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<<
Hello Everyone,
Could someone tell me how to get the window trim off my windshield? I can
not figure out the trick
Thanks
Charlie
ethan@compunet.net >>
CHARLIE, CHECK IN THE '55 SERVICE MANUAL, IT EXPLAINS & SHOWS PIX OF HOW TO
REMOVE THESE MLDGS. RICHARD
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:ethan@compunet.net
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Fellow Member:
In order to take w/s stainless off you first need to remove the lower
curved moldings. They have clips w/studs that have to be removed from
under the dash. These are to the side of the wiper estucheons. There are
also clips behind the lower corner moldings. The top two moldings are
removed with the glass as they are pressed into a slit in the rubber
seal. Do not try to remove them first as they will only come out with
the windshield. Hope this is helpful. Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:dover57@aol.com
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Frank,
It sounds like the rheostat in your headlight switch is faulty, so you
will have to replace the switch. This part of the switch gives power to
your dash lights. As far as your clock; if you are getting power to the
clock and it lights up, then probably the clock itself is not working.
Check for the small clock harness that plugs into your underdash
harness, which has two sockets for the bulbs. Hope this helps, Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "R Welch", INTERNET:rwelch@ionet.net
In reference to the electric fuel pump installation using a toggle switch
(From: INTERNET:LWatts1054@aol.com) - for safety reasons it should always
go
through the ignition switch and you should install a low oil pressure
switch
as well. See the thread in the ChevyTalk forum under:
http://www.chevytalk.com/ubb/Forum64/HTML/000441.html - read all the
posts, its about 35 messages long.
Also, regarding the c-clip eliminators (From:
INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu) there seems to be a fair amount of
disagreement re the installation on a disc brake 10 or 12 bolt. I have
spoken with Mark Williams and Strange and they say their c-clip kits will
not fit. Moser, however, says theirs will. I have not done the conversion
yet but will shortly and will post the results.
Front and rear disc brake systems need a m/c and proportioning valve
designed for that system - a disc/drum setup will not work (From:
INTERNET:inslnn@kot.com).
-Bob W
56 Cameo
55 Belair Post
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
jb
when i put a 350 engine in my '57 i stayed with the old Powerglide. main
reason is that it's a big job to change over to a 3 speed. also if the
mechanic doesn't do it right then it will cause more problems.
I'd say to get the powerglide tuned up or rebuilt. it was a very reliable
part and while 3 speeds will give you better mileage and power, the cost
is more than you will ever get back in gas. while you may get 5 - 7 more
miles per gallon the cost is an extra 1500 - 2000. just for a little
crusing on a weekend i dont think it's worth the effort and cost. if you
were racing that's another story or if it was used as a daily driver in
stop and go traffic.
louis
jbanwe@maytag.com
>
> I am doing a 57 Bel Air 2 dr. Ht. and I'm wondering if it is better to
use
> a 350 automatic, or the original power glide. I want to keep the value
of
> the car as good as possible, but the 350 would make it more comfortable.
> Someone has added a 4 speed, which is coming out. It came with a power
> glide. Also, I would like to install a custom AC. Would that hurt, or
> help the value.
> Thanks, jb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
To: Chevy List, BOB_FORD
From: phillip l brown, INTERNET:lybc@earthlink.net
This is not 5-6-7 Chevy but a cousin. Does anyone have a GM Delco
Radio Catalog that would show the application for a #7300103 radio
(Delco number not a GM number). It's supposed to be for a '67 Olds, my
daily driver, but not sure what model of Olds or for sure that's it's
for a '67. Any help would be appreciated and please e-mail be
privately.
Thanks,
Phillip
-----------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: John Lynn, INTERNET:lsulynn@attglobal.net
Dear Bob:
Ok, I guess i have to get into the fray. Your question regarding "holes"
inwater and whether you could add salt without changing the volume is
interesting. I make my living as a biophysicist and work with ionic
solutions every day. I'll make a long story short. Water does not have
"holes", but as any other matter does have spaces. That does not mean that
one can add two types of matter together and not change the space they
occupy. The correct answer is "spaces" yes, but ANY addition whether it
dissolves or not will cause a volume change. For most of us the change is
almost invisible but it is there nevertheless. It requires precision
instrumentation and special glassware to measure those changes. One of the
basic principles of the conservation of energy and matter is that two atoms
cannot occupy the same space at the same time.
On a much more interesting note, I put the engine and transmission back on
to my restored 57 frame this weekend and feel like the road to restoration
is finally making progress. Over a year and a half so far, but ALL of the
work is mine. The body goes back over the next two weeks and I am finally
getting excited about the progress again. Some days you just have to slug
it out and believe the light at the end of the tunnel is really there. Boy
I really want to drive her again. Owned since day one by the family,
second in ownership, and in possession for over 26 years. Not many people
in
my profession share this joy. I am really glad to be a member of this
extraordinary list.
John Lynn
lsulynn@attglobal.net
Baton Rouge, LA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: [unknown], BOB_ford
From: INTERNET:SIDSRODSHOP@aol.com, INTERNET:SIDSRODSHOP@aol.com
DEAR MR. FORD, IF YOU FIND THAT WEBSITE THAT YOU CAN VERIFY VIN NUMBERS
COULD YOU PLEASE POST THAT AGAIN. THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR WORK YOU DO WITH
THIS LIST.
SID SOMERS
VANCOUVER,WASH
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
Wild Bill, re power booster.
I have 11" discs (TCI) on front of my car w/ big 2 1/2 wide Ford drums on
back w/ no booster (not enough vacuum in my motor to operate em) and stops
fine. Remember, there were plenty of Chevelles built (I had one) w/
disc/drum
w/ no power and they worked fine. Install proper proportioning valve and
not
a problem.
Steve
Upland, Ca
--------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
<< I am thinking about adding an electric fuel pump to my 57. the motor is
a
built up 327 with a single 625cfm carb, i plan on leaving the mechanical
pump and mounting the new one in the trunk off to the side in front of
the
spare tire. i thought this might be a good location since it would be out
of the way in the trunk and better off than on the underside of the body.
i
will also be using an toggle switch to turn the pump on and off which is
better
than directly to the ignition switch.
any comments/suggestions? >>
Why are you adding a pump? This is a waste of money on your combo. My car
has
over 500 hp and an 850 Holley and runs w/ a mechanical pump. If you do
anything, I'd upgrade the mechanical pump. Also the pumps are dangerous on
the street. In a crash, the pump will still run and could start a fire. If
you are dead set on an electric, make sure you wire in an oil pressure
safety
switch.
Steve
Upland, Ca
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Willis", INTERNET:willisb@kos.net
Bob. I saw a post about puting an Electric Fuel pump in the trunk of a 56
. This usually doesn't pan out as the pumps tend to lose their prime when
mounted higher than the fuel tank. I would mount it ahead of the fuel tank
low on the frame. Happy Motoring . BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
wayne,
hold on! ignore the advice below. that's the hard way. easy way is to buy
the drop-in replacements from a place in California. allied bearings
800 421 3658. tell them your year of car, etc. and they will know the
right one's.
no need to get any spindles, wheels, hubs, look in junkyards or any other
similar nonsense.
louis
> From: "Wayne Carrig", INTERNET:wcarrig@worldnet.att.net
>
> Hi Bob,
> I can't begin to tell you how much I enjoy your list and the many
> things
> I've learned although I've been involved with 5-6-7 Chevy's for over 25
> years.
> I recently had a computer problem and lost all the list copies I
> had saved
> over the last year and a half. Could you please repost the information
> from
> the gentleman on the roller bearing numbers which will replace the front
> ball bearings in a 57. He didn't say in the original post but I assume
the
> p/n he gave would include the bearing races as well? As I remember he
said
> they were of foreign manufacture.
> I am moving from Buffalo, New York to the Tampa Bay area in
Florida
> this
> coming week. I'd love to hear from anyone on the list who lives in the
> area
> about cruise nights, swap meets, area clubs, etc. so I can begin to
attend
> when I get there. List members may contact me at: wcarrig@att.net
> Thanks Bob for all your hard work to make this list happen. We
all
> owe you
> our sincere thanks.
>
> Wayne Carrig
>
> Tri-Five of WNY
>
> Editor's note. Is this the one you are looking for.
> I would like to reply to Internet Mikes question about changing front
> bearings to tapered roller bearings. This is a simple swap. Search the
> local salvage yards and locate a pair of front hubs from a 64 Full size
> Chevrolet car, install new bearings and seals for the 64 in the hub and
> install them directly on the 55,56,57 spindles. Next separate the
original
> front drums from the hubs and install them on the 64 hubs and you are
ready
> to go. I have personably made this swap 10-12 times on my own cars as
well
> as my customers cars.
> Hope this helps
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JBCarRstr@aol.com, INTERNET:JBCarRstr@aol.com
Hi Bob and all list members,
In response to the message from Grant & Tye Morris in the 9/17 posting
I
too agree that something is wrong with charging classic owners a fee to
enter
a show, especially if they are charging the general public to view the
cars.
The promoters of these shows should be paying the car owners for the right
to
promote, display and basically use the fine classic cars as a reason to
bring
people in to make money. The exception to this is if the promoters are
putting on a car show to raise money for charity. I don't object to paying
a
small fee to show my car if I know that the profits are going for a good
cause. Now, I will pay to show my car, participating in a show that there
is
no charity fund, just because it is a large show and it is enjoyable and
entertaining for myself. I just completed four days at the San Bernardino
Rte
66 Rendezvous. This has been a great show for the last 11 years, but I do
believe that it is getting a bit more difficult to justify paying an $80
fee.
This show promotes nothing for a good charity cause, it is a money maker
for
the city of San Berdoo. Even for the amount of cars that are allowed to
participate, restricted to 2,448, and the fact that they promote the event
to
be a "nostalgic" classic car event for pre 1973 vehicles only, there are
exceptions for certain "special interest" vehicles or "exotics". All year
Corvettes, Vipers, PT Cruisers, new RWD Impalas and Prowlers are allowed,
what about other special interest, later year cars that only a small
number
were manufactured. I believe that the people that make decisions regarding
what vehicles will or won't be allowed to register should be required to
listen to the participants and react in a positive manner, particularly for
a
show that you can end up paying as much as $80 or $100 to enter. I'm not
sure
that I will be going to this show next year unless things are different.
How do other list members feel about this, do you too object to paying
to
enter a show? Do you think that the promoters should be paying or
compensating us to allow our cars to be used/displayed to attract people
who
are bound to spend money for other things while they are there? There
should
be a forum to give input from the participants that has meaning and
demonstrates that serious consideration has been given to suggestions of
how
these show s are organized. Thanks for letting me use the space in this
great
list. Thanks Bob for providing a wonderful forum for sharing everything we
Tri Five owners wish/need to communicate.
Jim Baylor
Fontana, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
To: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:wcarrig@att.net
From: "Wayne Carrig", INTERNET:wcarrig@worldnet.att.net
Hi Don & Bob,
Yes this was the information I was looking for. I
really appreciate you taking the time to send it. Back in 1974 when I
purchased my 57 I was able to get roller bearings to replace the ball
bearings that came in the car. One of the roller bearings went bad last
year and although I had the old numbers from the boxes the bearings came in
they are no longer available by a US manufacturer. I had a friend who
works
for a bearing manufacturer chase this down for me with no luck. You are
exactly right about the roller bearings, they work great, require less
maintenance, and last a heck of a long time.
Thanks for the info on the "palm trees". I haven't
had much experience with such things yet but I will shortly. Again I
appreciate your help.
Best Regards,
Wayne K.
Carrig
----------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:wcarrig@att.net
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Hi Bob,
In reply to Wayne Carrig, who wanted the info on direct replacement roller
bearings:
Call Allied Bearing Sales in Los Angeles. Their numbers are (310) 837-0752
or (800) 421-3658. The part numbers are: B01R (outer), and B40R (inner).
The manufacturer is M.B.S. Bearings of Japan. At last check (about a year
ago) the prices were $23.31 for the outer and $38.00 (inner) and, yes, it
does include the bearing race. They're expensive, but you don't have to
replace the hubs or drums.
I've had the bearings on my '57 for three or four years now with no
problems. Here in California the state folks "groove" the freeway
surfaces.
I think that's done for straight stopping and traction, but I'm not sure.
Those old ball bearings don't ride well on it though.. They make the car
wander all over the road, probably because of the clearances they need to
rotate. Also, most old cars have a lot of play in the steering and it's
aggravated by those sloppy ball bearings. Anyway, roller bearings help A
LOT! Also, adjust the worm gear in the steering, and check the tie-rod
ends and the idler bushing. That solves the remaining play. My car
handles
very much like a modern car now. Oh yeah, the other important part of
handling is to install a sway bar. That's probably more important than the
bearings.
Hope you enjoy Florida. And, don't leave your windows open if you park
near
palm trees; not even a smidge. Those darn little flowers go everywhere and
they end up on the INSIDE of your car!
Best,
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
Bob - The chrome trim around the truck windshield is inserted into a
slot in the rubber itself. The windshield assembly has to be out of the
opening to get this trim in and out. It has a"tang" on the back edge
making it a "L" shape, which locks it into the slot, therefore the
rubber outer edge has to be free to flex to get it in and secure it.
This is similar to the top & side chrome moldings on the passenger cars.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
To: Chevy List, BOB_FORD
From: phillip l brown, INTERNET:lybc@earthlink.net
If anyone is interested in the book "The Hot Ones", there is one up for
auction on eBay at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=440911211
Starting bid price is $9.99. There is no reserve.
Phillip
------------------------------------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Glassoff, Marc", INTERNET:GlassoffMA@navair.navy.mil
Hi Bob-
Forgot to add this to my other post..in response to "Shew" regarding his
windshield trim and anyone else that hasn't realized this yet that I
learned being an amateur myself ...the first thing I bought when starting
on
my 56 was the Shop Manual followed shortly thereafter by the Assembly
Manual
when I decided to get serious. To do ANY work on these cars, you MUST have
these manuals or you're flying blind. I refer to them every time I go to
work on a new part of the car. I've probably got them memorized by now.
They are readily available at many old car literature sources...see
Hemmings
for some. (Locally, I use Old Chevy Parts in San Marcos, CA.) I think my
shop manual was around $40 and the Assembly manual around $25. I see a lot
of folks asking lots of questions that are answered in these books. (No,
I'm not a book publisher)
Marc Glassoff, V.P.
Heartbeat Classic Chevy Club of Escondido, CA
---------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Glassoff, Marc", INTERNET:GlassoffMA@navair.navy.mil
Hi Bob-
In reply to Wayne who wanted more info on the tapered roller bearing
swap...in doing my 56 a few months ago I found that the tapered bearings
are
standard...nothing special...no high price. The outer (smaller) bearing
that I needed turned out to be a standard A-2 bearing at the whopping cost
of $7. And it comes with the race. It was made by SKF and I think made in
Mexico. Any parts store carries them so don't go spending a bushel for
these.
Great job on the list.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "jimj", INTERNET:jimj@cujo2.icom.ca
Hi Bob and all. I too would be happy to hear
from list members regarding Frank's questions
regarding dash lights. Mine do work and the
reostat (sp??) does make the brightness increase
and decrease, but even at the highest setting
you can hardly see the instruments at night. I
bought a used light switch on eBay but it has
yet to arrive. That's another story though.
Also regarding Grant Morris' comments on fees
for entry into car shows. conventions etc., again I
hope that there is a lot of feedback. I have some, I
hope, useful comments, since I've been involved in
that scene for many years,but would like to hold back
and see what others have to say. What is reasonable?
What do you get for your fee? Even with sponsors, and
run by volunteers, they can't be put on for nothing (no cost)
JimJ.
--------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:dickchryser@mediaone.net
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
I'd say Dick Chryslers' comment (printed 9/18/2000) to the effect that "You
have
to include Edsel Ford" in the group of those who have two cars (presumably
Edsel
and Ford) named after them is constitutes a good try - but no cigar! The
Ford
automobile was clearly named after Henry Ford. The Edsel was probably named
after Edsel, but this is only one vehicle. On the other hand, the
connection of
Ransom E. Olds with both Oldsmobile and REO is well documented as is the
connection between Henry J. Kaiser with both the Kaiser and the Henry J.
Good thinking though - got to admit that I hadn't thought of this one
previously!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
From: Editor
Any stamp collectors on this list? Here is some 50s trivia. What was the
cost of the last stamp that was used in the US to send a letter Air Mail
instead of regular mail (usually by train)?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 7:05 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JHCHEVYPARTS@aol.com, INTERNET:JHCHEVYPARTS@aol.com
Probably have the firewall, also. No doors, though. Jay
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:DPete57@aol.com, INTERNET:DPete57@aol.com
Bob, the hubs & bearings from 64 to 72 full size Chevy's will work on 55-57
Chevy's. Check CCI's Tech Manual's for info about this upgrade plus
tranny's
plus many other changes you can make by visiting your local wrecking yard &
reading your tech manual. If CCI & Bow Tie weren't there to help you would
have a long way to go to get the info you need. I have worked on these cars
since I was 17 in 1958 . The cars are as valuable stock as they are
modified
so have fun & build them the way you want & enjoy them. Don(Pipes)Peterson
,
'57's, Rock & Roll, & Buddy Holly Forever
PS If you want to hear a good tune pick up Eric Clapton's "Rock&Roll Heart"
from his "Money& Cigarrettes" Album. "I get off on '57 Chevy's"
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<<
Hello Everyone,
Could someone tell me how to get the window trim off my windshield? I can
not figure out the trick
Thanks
Charlie
ethan@compunet.net >>
CHARLIE, CHECK IN THE '55 SERVICE MANUAL, IT EXPLAINS & SHOWS PIX OF HOW TO
REMOVE THESE MLDGS. RICHARD
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:ethan@compunet.net
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Fellow Member:
In order to take w/s stainless off you first need to remove the lower
curved moldings. They have clips w/studs that have to be removed from
under the dash. These are to the side of the wiper estucheons. There are
also clips behind the lower corner moldings. The top two moldings are
removed with the glass as they are pressed into a slit in the rubber
seal. Do not try to remove them first as they will only come out with
the windshield. Hope this is helpful. Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:dover57@aol.com
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
Frank,
It sounds like the rheostat in your headlight switch is faulty, so you
will have to replace the switch. This part of the switch gives power to
your dash lights. As far as your clock; if you are getting power to the
clock and it lights up, then probably the clock itself is not working.
Check for the small clock harness that plugs into your underdash
harness, which has two sockets for the bulbs. Hope this helps, Donna
Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "R Welch", INTERNET:rwelch@ionet.net
In reference to the electric fuel pump installation using a toggle switch
(From: INTERNET:LWatts1054@aol.com) - for safety reasons it should always
go
through the ignition switch and you should install a low oil pressure
switch
as well. See the thread in the ChevyTalk forum under:
http://www.chevytalk.com/ubb/Forum64/HTML/000441.html - read all the
posts, its about 35 messages long.
Also, regarding the c-clip eliminators (From:
INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu) there seems to be a fair amount of
disagreement re the installation on a disc brake 10 or 12 bolt. I have
spoken with Mark Williams and Strange and they say their c-clip kits will
not fit. Moser, however, says theirs will. I have not done the conversion
yet but will shortly and will post the results.
Front and rear disc brake systems need a m/c and proportioning valve
designed for that system - a disc/drum setup will not work (From:
INTERNET:inslnn@kot.com).
-Bob W
56 Cameo
55 Belair Post
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
jb
when i put a 350 engine in my '57 i stayed with the old Powerglide. main
reason is that it's a big job to change over to a 3 speed. also if the
mechanic doesn't do it right then it will cause more problems.
I'd say to get the powerglide tuned up or rebuilt. it was a very reliable
part and while 3 speeds will give you better mileage and power, the cost
is more than you will ever get back in gas. while you may get 5 - 7 more
miles per gallon the cost is an extra 1500 - 2000. just for a little
crusing on a weekend i dont think it's worth the effort and cost. if you
were racing that's another story or if it was used as a daily driver in
stop and go traffic.
louis
jbanwe@maytag.com
>
> I am doing a 57 Bel Air 2 dr. Ht. and I'm wondering if it is better to
use
> a 350 automatic, or the original power glide. I want to keep the value
of
> the car as good as possible, but the 350 would make it more comfortable.
> Someone has added a 4 speed, which is coming out. It came with a power
> glide. Also, I would like to install a custom AC. Would that hurt, or
> help the value.
> Thanks, jb
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
To: Chevy List, BOB_FORD
From: phillip l brown, INTERNET:lybc@earthlink.net
This is not 5-6-7 Chevy but a cousin. Does anyone have a GM Delco
Radio Catalog that would show the application for a #7300103 radio
(Delco number not a GM number). It's supposed to be for a '67 Olds, my
daily driver, but not sure what model of Olds or for sure that's it's
for a '67. Any help would be appreciated and please e-mail be
privately.
Thanks,
Phillip
-----------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: John Lynn, INTERNET:lsulynn@attglobal.net
Dear Bob:
Ok, I guess i have to get into the fray. Your question regarding "holes"
inwater and whether you could add salt without changing the volume is
interesting. I make my living as a biophysicist and work with ionic
solutions every day. I'll make a long story short. Water does not have
"holes", but as any other matter does have spaces. That does not mean that
one can add two types of matter together and not change the space they
occupy. The correct answer is "spaces" yes, but ANY addition whether it
dissolves or not will cause a volume change. For most of us the change is
almost invisible but it is there nevertheless. It requires precision
instrumentation and special glassware to measure those changes. One of the
basic principles of the conservation of energy and matter is that two atoms
cannot occupy the same space at the same time.
On a much more interesting note, I put the engine and transmission back on
to my restored 57 frame this weekend and feel like the road to restoration
is finally making progress. Over a year and a half so far, but ALL of the
work is mine. The body goes back over the next two weeks and I am finally
getting excited about the progress again. Some days you just have to slug
it out and believe the light at the end of the tunnel is really there. Boy
I really want to drive her again. Owned since day one by the family,
second in ownership, and in possession for over 26 years. Not many people
in
my profession share this joy. I am really glad to be a member of this
extraordinary list.
John Lynn
lsulynn@attglobal.net
Baton Rouge, LA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: [unknown], BOB_ford
From: INTERNET:SIDSRODSHOP@aol.com, INTERNET:SIDSRODSHOP@aol.com
DEAR MR. FORD, IF YOU FIND THAT WEBSITE THAT YOU CAN VERIFY VIN NUMBERS
COULD YOU PLEASE POST THAT AGAIN. THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR WORK YOU DO WITH
THIS LIST.
SID SOMERS
VANCOUVER,WASH
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
Wild Bill, re power booster.
I have 11" discs (TCI) on front of my car w/ big 2 1/2 wide Ford drums on
back w/ no booster (not enough vacuum in my motor to operate em) and stops
fine. Remember, there were plenty of Chevelles built (I had one) w/
disc/drum
w/ no power and they worked fine. Install proper proportioning valve and
not
a problem.
Steve
Upland, Ca
--------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
<< I am thinking about adding an electric fuel pump to my 57. the motor is
a
built up 327 with a single 625cfm carb, i plan on leaving the mechanical
pump and mounting the new one in the trunk off to the side in front of
the
spare tire. i thought this might be a good location since it would be out
of the way in the trunk and better off than on the underside of the body.
i
will also be using an toggle switch to turn the pump on and off which is
better
than directly to the ignition switch.
any comments/suggestions? >>
Why are you adding a pump? This is a waste of money on your combo. My car
has
over 500 hp and an 850 Holley and runs w/ a mechanical pump. If you do
anything, I'd upgrade the mechanical pump. Also the pumps are dangerous on
the street. In a crash, the pump will still run and could start a fire. If
you are dead set on an electric, make sure you wire in an oil pressure
safety
switch.
Steve
Upland, Ca
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Willis", INTERNET:willisb@kos.net
Bob. I saw a post about puting an Electric Fuel pump in the trunk of a 56
. This usually doesn't pan out as the pumps tend to lose their prime when
mounted higher than the fuel tank. I would mount it ahead of the fuel tank
low on the frame. Happy Motoring . BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
wayne,
hold on! ignore the advice below. that's the hard way. easy way is to buy
the drop-in replacements from a place in California. allied bearings
800 421 3658. tell them your year of car, etc. and they will know the
right one's.
no need to get any spindles, wheels, hubs, look in junkyards or any other
similar nonsense.
louis
> From: "Wayne Carrig", INTERNET:wcarrig@worldnet.att.net
>
> Hi Bob,
> I can't begin to tell you how much I enjoy your list and the many
> things
> I've learned although I've been involved with 5-6-7 Chevy's for over 25
> years.
> I recently had a computer problem and lost all the list copies I
> had saved
> over the last year and a half. Could you please repost the information
> from
> the gentleman on the roller bearing numbers which will replace the front
> ball bearings in a 57. He didn't say in the original post but I assume
the
> p/n he gave would include the bearing races as well? As I remember he
said
> they were of foreign manufacture.
> I am moving from Buffalo, New York to the Tampa Bay area in
Florida
> this
> coming week. I'd love to hear from anyone on the list who lives in the
> area
> about cruise nights, swap meets, area clubs, etc. so I can begin to
attend
> when I get there. List members may contact me at: wcarrig@att.net
> Thanks Bob for all your hard work to make this list happen. We
all
> owe you
> our sincere thanks.
>
> Wayne Carrig
>
> Tri-Five of WNY
>
> Editor's note. Is this the one you are looking for.
> I would like to reply to Internet Mikes question about changing front
> bearings to tapered roller bearings. This is a simple swap. Search the
> local salvage yards and locate a pair of front hubs from a 64 Full size
> Chevrolet car, install new bearings and seals for the 64 in the hub and
> install them directly on the 55,56,57 spindles. Next separate the
original
> front drums from the hubs and install them on the 64 hubs and you are
ready
> to go. I have personably made this swap 10-12 times on my own cars as
well
> as my customers cars.
> Hope this helps
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JBCarRstr@aol.com, INTERNET:JBCarRstr@aol.com
Hi Bob and all list members,
In response to the message from Grant & Tye Morris in the 9/17 posting
I
too agree that something is wrong with charging classic owners a fee to
enter
a show, especially if they are charging the general public to view the
cars.
The promoters of these shows should be paying the car owners for the right
to
promote, display and basically use the fine classic cars as a reason to
bring
people in to make money. The exception to this is if the promoters are
putting on a car show to raise money for charity. I don't object to paying
a
small fee to show my car if I know that the profits are going for a good
cause. Now, I will pay to show my car, participating in a show that there
is
no charity fund, just because it is a large show and it is enjoyable and
entertaining for myself. I just completed four days at the San Bernardino
Rte
66 Rendezvous. This has been a great show for the last 11 years, but I do
believe that it is getting a bit more difficult to justify paying an $80
fee.
This show promotes nothing for a good charity cause, it is a money maker
for
the city of San Berdoo. Even for the amount of cars that are allowed to
participate, restricted to 2,448, and the fact that they promote the event
to
be a "nostalgic" classic car event for pre 1973 vehicles only, there are
exceptions for certain "special interest" vehicles or "exotics". All year
Corvettes, Vipers, PT Cruisers, new RWD Impalas and Prowlers are allowed,
what about other special interest, later year cars that only a small
number
were manufactured. I believe that the people that make decisions regarding
what vehicles will or won't be allowed to register should be required to
listen to the participants and react in a positive manner, particularly for
a
show that you can end up paying as much as $80 or $100 to enter. I'm not
sure
that I will be going to this show next year unless things are different.
How do other list members feel about this, do you too object to paying
to
enter a show? Do you think that the promoters should be paying or
compensating us to allow our cars to be used/displayed to attract people
who
are bound to spend money for other things while they are there? There
should
be a forum to give input from the participants that has meaning and
demonstrates that serious consideration has been given to suggestions of
how
these show s are organized. Thanks for letting me use the space in this
great
list. Thanks Bob for providing a wonderful forum for sharing everything we
Tri Five owners wish/need to communicate.
Jim Baylor
Fontana, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
To: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:wcarrig@att.net
From: "Wayne Carrig", INTERNET:wcarrig@worldnet.att.net
Hi Don & Bob,
Yes this was the information I was looking for. I
really appreciate you taking the time to send it. Back in 1974 when I
purchased my 57 I was able to get roller bearings to replace the ball
bearings that came in the car. One of the roller bearings went bad last
year and although I had the old numbers from the boxes the bearings came in
they are no longer available by a US manufacturer. I had a friend who
works
for a bearing manufacturer chase this down for me with no luck. You are
exactly right about the roller bearings, they work great, require less
maintenance, and last a heck of a long time.
Thanks for the info on the "palm trees". I haven't
had much experience with such things yet but I will shortly. Again I
appreciate your help.
Best Regards,
Wayne K.
Carrig
----------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:wcarrig@att.net
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Hi Bob,
In reply to Wayne Carrig, who wanted the info on direct replacement roller
bearings:
Call Allied Bearing Sales in Los Angeles. Their numbers are (310) 837-0752
or (800) 421-3658. The part numbers are: B01R (outer), and B40R (inner).
The manufacturer is M.B.S. Bearings of Japan. At last check (about a year
ago) the prices were $23.31 for the outer and $38.00 (inner) and, yes, it
does include the bearing race. They're expensive, but you don't have to
replace the hubs or drums.
I've had the bearings on my '57 for three or four years now with no
problems. Here in California the state folks "groove" the freeway
surfaces.
I think that's done for straight stopping and traction, but I'm not sure.
Those old ball bearings don't ride well on it though.. They make the car
wander all over the road, probably because of the clearances they need to
rotate. Also, most old cars have a lot of play in the steering and it's
aggravated by those sloppy ball bearings. Anyway, roller bearings help A
LOT! Also, adjust the worm gear in the steering, and check the tie-rod
ends and the idler bushing. That solves the remaining play. My car
handles
very much like a modern car now. Oh yeah, the other important part of
handling is to install a sway bar. That's probably more important than the
bearings.
Hope you enjoy Florida. And, don't leave your windows open if you park
near
palm trees; not even a smidge. Those darn little flowers go everywhere and
they end up on the INSIDE of your car!
Best,
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
Bob - The chrome trim around the truck windshield is inserted into a
slot in the rubber itself. The windshield assembly has to be out of the
opening to get this trim in and out. It has a"tang" on the back edge
making it a "L" shape, which locks it into the slot, therefore the
rubber outer edge has to be free to flex to get it in and secure it.
This is similar to the top & side chrome moldings on the passenger cars.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
To: Chevy List, BOB_FORD
From: phillip l brown, INTERNET:lybc@earthlink.net
If anyone is interested in the book "The Hot Ones", there is one up for
auction on eBay at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=440911211
Starting bid price is $9.99. There is no reserve.
Phillip
------------------------------------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Glassoff, Marc", INTERNET:GlassoffMA@navair.navy.mil
Hi Bob-
Forgot to add this to my other post..in response to "Shew" regarding his
windshield trim and anyone else that hasn't realized this yet that I
learned being an amateur myself ...the first thing I bought when starting
on
my 56 was the Shop Manual followed shortly thereafter by the Assembly
Manual
when I decided to get serious. To do ANY work on these cars, you MUST have
these manuals or you're flying blind. I refer to them every time I go to
work on a new part of the car. I've probably got them memorized by now.
They are readily available at many old car literature sources...see
Hemmings
for some. (Locally, I use Old Chevy Parts in San Marcos, CA.) I think my
shop manual was around $40 and the Assembly manual around $25. I see a lot
of folks asking lots of questions that are answered in these books. (No,
I'm not a book publisher)
Marc Glassoff, V.P.
Heartbeat Classic Chevy Club of Escondido, CA
---------------------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Glassoff, Marc", INTERNET:GlassoffMA@navair.navy.mil
Hi Bob-
In reply to Wayne who wanted more info on the tapered roller bearing
swap...in doing my 56 a few months ago I found that the tapered bearings
are
standard...nothing special...no high price. The outer (smaller) bearing
that I needed turned out to be a standard A-2 bearing at the whopping cost
of $7. And it comes with the race. It was made by SKF and I think made in
Mexico. Any parts store carries them so don't go spending a bushel for
these.
Great job on the list.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "jimj", INTERNET:jimj@cujo2.icom.ca
Hi Bob and all. I too would be happy to hear
from list members regarding Frank's questions
regarding dash lights. Mine do work and the
reostat (sp??) does make the brightness increase
and decrease, but even at the highest setting
you can hardly see the instruments at night. I
bought a used light switch on eBay but it has
yet to arrive. That's another story though.
Also regarding Grant Morris' comments on fees
for entry into car shows. conventions etc., again I
hope that there is a lot of feedback. I have some, I
hope, useful comments, since I've been involved in
that scene for many years,but would like to hold back
and see what others have to say. What is reasonable?
What do you get for your fee? Even with sponsors, and
run by volunteers, they can't be put on for nothing (no cost)
JimJ.
--------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:dickchryser@mediaone.net
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
I'd say Dick Chryslers' comment (printed 9/18/2000) to the effect that "You
have
to include Edsel Ford" in the group of those who have two cars (presumably
Edsel
and Ford) named after them is constitutes a good try - but no cigar! The
Ford
automobile was clearly named after Henry Ford. The Edsel was probably named
after Edsel, but this is only one vehicle. On the other hand, the
connection of
Ransom E. Olds with both Oldsmobile and REO is well documented as is the
connection between Henry J. Kaiser with both the Kaiser and the Henry J.
Good thinking though - got to admit that I hadn't thought of this one
previously!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
From: Editor
Any stamp collectors on this list? Here is some 50s trivia. What was the
cost of the last stamp that was used in the US to send a letter Air Mail
instead of regular mail (usually by train)?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY