From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:56 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
From: Editor
I hope to see you on Oct 29th at 2 PM. Please drop by and "Meet the
Editor". Here are the directions.
DIRECTIONS TO 18091 MARK CIRCLE, VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA
Take any freeway to the 55 freeway. Exit the 55 freeway on Katella going
East.
Go the second stop light and turn left. You will be turning on Wanda.
Turn right at the second stop light. You will be turning on Taft.
Turn left at the first stop light. You will be turning on Nichols.
Turn right at the second street. You will be turning on Mark Circle.
I live in the 4th house on the left.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Sirkal, INTERNET:asirk@telus.net
In reply to Carl about the advantages of disc over drum brakes:
The main reason that disc brakes are more effective than drum brakes is
that
a disc brake displaces the heat built up during braking better. A brake
creates drag (friction) and converts the motion energy of a vehicle into
heat energy. This heat must be rid of, or the whole assembly gets hotter,
and as many know, hotter brakes don't work as well. (brake fade) Also, the
clamping force on a disc is better because of the way the assembly works.
On a drum brake, the drum flexes outward as force is applied against the
surface, so some of the force is lost. On a disc brake, the calipers are
less prone to flexing and the disc itself cannot be compressed
significantly, so most of the force applied to it is acting on the disc,
where you want it. Even so, as many may know, the best way to make even
disc brakes work better is to improve the cooling efficiency. That's why
you see cross drilling, fins, and many times ducting directing air to the
disc or drum in an effort to get rid of the heat.
Briefly, that's what I know about it.
Later,
Al Sirk
'57 2 DR
----------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
WANTED: 55/56 Chevy Overdrive dash pull cable. I had an extra and sold
it,
but this gentleman is also looking for one. So I was wondering if you
could
help him out by either letting him know where to find one or if any of you
have one, he would like to buy it. His name is Joe Preston and he can be
reached at (660)646-0848, or just email me and I'll get back in touch with
him. Thanks much!
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:kfmartel@collins.rockwell.com,
INTERNET:kfmartel@collins.rockwell.com
Bob, and all,
I have an oil leak coming from my distributor in my 1955 265 engine.
When I installed the distributor I did add the round gasket that came
in my gasket kit, but that does not seem to be enough. What am I missing?
Is there more then just a small round gasket that is suppose to go between
the distributor flange and the intake manifold?
Thanks, Kim
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Jane & Jerry Graver, INTERNET:jjgraver@txcr.net
Goliad, Texas
I am planning on moving and have the following parts and magazines that
I do not want to take with me. I will accept all reasonable offers.
First come first served.
Parts For Sale:
1956 Chevy Used: 265 Engine [Disassembled] SN: 0I0769IT56GB
[OIO769IT56GB, 3720991, A1156], less crankshaft & Bell Housing, includes
Two-barrel intake manifold, Heads [3837065-3I95], Exhaust Manifolds, and
all other associated parts; 1956 Used Distributor [1110891-2K26 ]; 1957
Used Distributor [1110847-5M27 ]; Used Vacuum Wiper Motor; Delco Factory
Re-manufactured Generator Model 10-U, SN: A8257; Delco Factory
Re-manufactured Generator, Model 322-43, SN: A112086.
Magazines For Sale: 1974-Present Classic Chevy International Magazine
Collection. Will sell individually for $3.00 each.
Make an offer for the whole lot or for individual items. No reasonable
offer refused. All parts plus shipping. SG
Gerald L. Graver #99173
684 Canyon View Drive
Goliad, Texas 77963
(361) 645-3189
(775) 522-7756 [Fax]
jjgraver@txcr.net
Sincerely
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Graeme Robinson, INTERNET:g.robinson@grcqs.com
Bob,
Do any of the list members know of any Corvette sites that also have
private Vettes for sale. Any leads would be gratefully received.
Thanks, Graeme
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
Yikes! That message made me cringe! I thought we were about preserving
55-56-57 cars, and you want to dispose of a perfectly good original 6 cyl
engine? I can guarantee that engine has great value! Just a few years
ago I was looking for a 6 for my 56 wagon (the original block was cracked).
If you absolutely don't want it, give it away to someone who will use it or
keep it. You can go to this website and place a free ad:
http://www.chevytalk.com. IT's an excellent site. They have great
classifieds. Surely someone can make use of that engine.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: Bob Ford, BOB_FORD
From: "Dale D.", INTERNET:canyonrose@yahoo.com
>I've heard of a system that uses a switch
>operated valve in the brake hydraulic line. You
>press your foot on the brake, put on the switch and
>the valve maintains the pressure in the system until
>the switch is turned off. It's like the brake pedal
>is on all the time.
I believe the system referred to is a "Mico Brake."
We had this device on our Fire Trucks (back in the
Dark Ages). It basically is a one-way, cam-operated
valve with a 3" lever. We could roll up to a fire
scene, step on the brake pedal, throw the lever, and
NOTHING could move that big truck. You soul be able
to order one of these at NAPA.
One other solution to the car-theft problem is move
out to the sticks, like where I live. We leave our
keys in the ignition and the last vehicle that anyone
can remember stolen was a horse!
-Delivery Dale
Editor's note. We all know what happened to someone who stole a horse in
the old West. Same thing that happened to Tom Dulley.
BOB
__________________________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MTracyccc@aol.com, INTERNET:MTracyccc@aol.com
hello bob and all listers
i am planning some engine compartment work on my 55 post this winter and
need
some help. can the wheel wells be removed without taking the fenders off. i
would like to get a clear shot at the firewall without taking the fenders
off. thanks for any help.
mike in ne il.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Crean", INTERNET:creanie@bellatlantic.net
to jerry casper
in response to the gas left in your tank that you are afraid won't pass
inspection
just a thought but why don't you take a nice ride in the country and just
use the gas
bring an extra gallon or two and run it empty
simple right
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
Bob- with regard to the front wheel bearing controversy...
The hubs to use are found on 1961 thru 1968 full size Chevrolets. While
some roller bearings exist for the original 55 and 56/57 hubs they are
hard to find and expensive. The 61-68 conversion uses bearings and
seals any FLAPS will have in stock, but you will probably never need
them. As for other full size GM rodcts of that era, they used a 5 on 5
wheel bolt pattern and are therefore not what you want, even if they
would fit (and I do not think they do). The 55-57 drum fits right onto
this 61-68 hub, no need for rivets as the wheels hold them on.
As far as theft proofing, if he really wants your car he is gonna get
it. But, any delay will help scare off all but the most professional of
thieves. One trick is to replace the coil to distributor cap wire with
a piece of vacuum tubing of the correct size. An old coil wire will
provide the correct rubber end seals, and a quick few seconds to switch
when you park will drive 99% of them nuts. Another is to run the
ignition switch to distributor/coil wiring through the cigarette
lighter. A little creative wiring makes a lighter into a switch (like a
toggle switch) and this would handle a HEI type circuit.
Just a couple of thoughts...
On the 8th day HE created the 55 Chevrolet
(and GMC Suburban Pickups)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:calebs3@juno.com, INTERNET:calebs3@juno.com
THOUGHT SOMEONE MIGHT LIKE TO CHECKOUT THIS SITE
HAS SOME GOOD STORIES
__________________________________________________ ______________
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
The 10/13 distribution of the list contained an item from a member who was
interested in removing the spare tire well from the trunk of his '57 sedan
and
then installing a larger capacity tank in the now-vacated space. (I presume
that
he will then be placing either a full-size tire/wheel or a mini-spare
horizontally in the trunk.) Rather than looking at cars in wrecking yards
for
possible tank swaps, I'd suggest that a another approach would be simply to
bring ones' tape measure along to the next few car shows visited. I would
much
rather crawl - with the owners permission of course - under vehicles
displayed
at a car show than under vehicles in a wrecking yard. I'm not sure about
CA, but
around here the ground in wrecking yards tends to be full of broken glass,
snakes, rodents, etc.
Obviously, I'm not suggesting the show vehicle as the source of your tank,
but
only as a good way to identify a source vehicle model. You might also
consider
approaching someone you know who works at a car dealership to see if you
could
do the same thing in their new or used vehicle lot. Again, I'm suggesting a
means of identifying a possible donor vehicle model only! While I haven't
actually made the swap described, I'd think that a tank used in one of the
later
model sport utility vehicles (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, etc.) might come
closest
to what you're looking for in the way of capacity and overall envelope
size.
Also, once a model is identified, you might want to check out the
possibility of
purchasing a new replacement tank rather than a unit from a salvage yard.
While
the salvage yard price will certainly be lower, the cost involved in
cleaning
the tank, repairing and modifying it may be greater than at first thought.
Another possibility you might want to consider is that of using a new tank
originally manufactured for marine use.
Most importantly, make certain that all fumes are removed from any used
tank
prior to attempting any cutting, soldering, or brazing operations that
could
ignite said fumes! I'd suggest rinsing with soapy water and emptying the
tank
several times at a minimum. Then fill it with CO2 from your cars' exhaust
to
assure that all combustible fumes have been displaced if you really want to
undertake modifications yourself. Personally I'd recommend leaving any
necessary
tank modifications to a professional.
Next, a reader questions why disk brakes can be more efficient than drums -
noting that the lining area with the drum system is actually greater in a
number
of cases. It must be recognized that a brake system is used to change
kinetic
energy into heat energy. The advantage of the modern ventilated disk system
lies
primarily in the fact that it is capable of dissipating this heat energy at
a
faster rate than the drum system. This significantly reduces the risk of
brake
fade (often encountered in mountainous terrain with the old drums if the
driver
failed to downshift appropriately on the downgrades). Even so, a properly
maintained drum system as used on the '55-'57 Chevy can be quite
satisfactory in
everyday service - just as they were 40 years ago. Whether to convert or
not is
really dependent upon what type of use you expect to subject the vehicle
to.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Hi Bob,
In answer to Rebag9 (no name given), the conversion to roller bearings does
NOT have to involve replacing the front hubs. Direct replacement
bearings/races are available. Just remove the old ball bearings/races and
tap in the new rollers. They are manufactured in Japan by M.B.S. Bearings.
They are available from Allied Bearing Sales in Los Angeles. No e-mail
address that I know of, but the phone numbers are (800) 421-3658 or (310)
837-0752. The part numbers are B01R for the outer and B40R for the inner.
The inner should price out in the mid-$20's and the outer in the mid-$30's.
You don't need to consider replacing the hubs with either later-model Chevy
or other GM parts. This is the EASY way. I did it on my car, and I'm
heavily into "EASY".
I've been told that the same part numbers are available from other dealers,
but the cost will be about the same. Why bother looking around?
Hope this helps,
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com, INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com
Bob, I need a couple of original 6-stud wheels for my 1955 Chevrolet Cameo
pickup truck. The bumps on the outer rim need to be in good shape to hold
on
a full wheel cover. I'm in Orange County, CA.
Thanks,
Dennis McGillis
949-551-4821
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Dwayne Burgess, INTERNET
rivateeye4u@yahoo.com
I have a 57 BelAir Convertable I want to start
restoration on this winter. I would like to start off
with a laundry list of parts & material sources
(catalogs, dealers, etc.) Any help would be
appreciated. Thank you - Dwayne
Editor's note. Dwayne, just post what you want to buy on this list.
There are several vendors on the list that will help you find the parts you
need.
BOB
_______________________________________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
From: INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com, INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com
Bob, please advise Rebag9@aol.com that he should not trash his 1956 235-6
as these are highly desired by those who want a "modern" six cylinder
engine
for their older Chevrolets. If he puts a phone number and location in his
e-mail he will probably be surprised at the response he gets. I do not
know
exactly but $100 to $500 is the kind of prices I see in ads.
Dennis McGillis
OCVCCA
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Troy Pepus", INTERNET:tpepus@hotmail.com
Bob,
Sorry to hear about your car loss.
While "surfing", I came across this web-site that I thought might be of
interest to our group, especially since one of the "hot" topics of late is
auto theft. The site is www.powerlock.com.
Also, I must of missed what kind of car you had stolen. My brother's best
friend had his '89 Toyota Camry stolen right out from under his nose, as he
was sleeping in the room not 6 ft. from where his car was parked.
Apparently, it was a group of kids in his neighborhood that took Camry's
joy-riding, as when they were caught that same night (they got nervous when
a police car passed them and make a quick U-turn), they had a key-ring full
of Camry keys. Yes, the keys around that time frame were interchangeable.
My
brother had an '88 Wagon, and his friend's '89 Sedan keys fit his doors.
Camry owners beware!!
Keep up the good work,
Troy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
> creanie@bellatlantic.net
>
> in response to the letter from louis about the device that goes on the
> brake pedal
> this is only good on new cars that you have to push the brakes down to
put
> your car in gear
> as for older cars, if the thief wants to steal your car he can use the
> emergency brake for temporary stopping until he gets to a place where he
> can remove it
> this device is no good for us tri five guys
>
> rob crean
i think this device is better than having nothing on the brake pedal.
it surely will make it more difficult. most thieves want to get out fast
and not drive very slowly - as in drive gear with no gas.
however any 55 - 57 car will attract lots of attention parked all alone so
realistically no device will work very well.
louis
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GlnnDrvr@cs.com, INTERNET:GlnnDrvr@cs.com
Jennifer. re:tire and wheel size for your 57. Per CCI Chevy World
magazine,
May 96 a 15x8 wheel with a 245/60 will fit with 4 1/2 backspacing. The tire
width will be 10"
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------
From: Editor
Here is some 50s trivia for you.
What was the last year Chevy used leaf springs in the rear of their cars?
What was Mel Sharpel's occupation?
Also I have a few more copies of the video "The look and feel of the 50s'.
If you would like a copy please send me you address. I will not publish
your address on the list.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:56 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
From: Editor
I hope to see you on Oct 29th at 2 PM. Please drop by and "Meet the
Editor". Here are the directions.
DIRECTIONS TO 18091 MARK CIRCLE, VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA
Take any freeway to the 55 freeway. Exit the 55 freeway on Katella going
East.
Go the second stop light and turn left. You will be turning on Wanda.
Turn right at the second stop light. You will be turning on Taft.
Turn left at the first stop light. You will be turning on Nichols.
Turn right at the second street. You will be turning on Mark Circle.
I live in the 4th house on the left.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Sirkal, INTERNET:asirk@telus.net
In reply to Carl about the advantages of disc over drum brakes:
The main reason that disc brakes are more effective than drum brakes is
that
a disc brake displaces the heat built up during braking better. A brake
creates drag (friction) and converts the motion energy of a vehicle into
heat energy. This heat must be rid of, or the whole assembly gets hotter,
and as many know, hotter brakes don't work as well. (brake fade) Also, the
clamping force on a disc is better because of the way the assembly works.
On a drum brake, the drum flexes outward as force is applied against the
surface, so some of the force is lost. On a disc brake, the calipers are
less prone to flexing and the disc itself cannot be compressed
significantly, so most of the force applied to it is acting on the disc,
where you want it. Even so, as many may know, the best way to make even
disc brakes work better is to improve the cooling efficiency. That's why
you see cross drilling, fins, and many times ducting directing air to the
disc or drum in an effort to get rid of the heat.
Briefly, that's what I know about it.
Later,
Al Sirk
'57 2 DR
----------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
WANTED: 55/56 Chevy Overdrive dash pull cable. I had an extra and sold
it,
but this gentleman is also looking for one. So I was wondering if you
could
help him out by either letting him know where to find one or if any of you
have one, he would like to buy it. His name is Joe Preston and he can be
reached at (660)646-0848, or just email me and I'll get back in touch with
him. Thanks much!
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:kfmartel@collins.rockwell.com,
INTERNET:kfmartel@collins.rockwell.com
Bob, and all,
I have an oil leak coming from my distributor in my 1955 265 engine.
When I installed the distributor I did add the round gasket that came
in my gasket kit, but that does not seem to be enough. What am I missing?
Is there more then just a small round gasket that is suppose to go between
the distributor flange and the intake manifold?
Thanks, Kim
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Jane & Jerry Graver, INTERNET:jjgraver@txcr.net
Goliad, Texas
I am planning on moving and have the following parts and magazines that
I do not want to take with me. I will accept all reasonable offers.
First come first served.
Parts For Sale:
1956 Chevy Used: 265 Engine [Disassembled] SN: 0I0769IT56GB
[OIO769IT56GB, 3720991, A1156], less crankshaft & Bell Housing, includes
Two-barrel intake manifold, Heads [3837065-3I95], Exhaust Manifolds, and
all other associated parts; 1956 Used Distributor [1110891-2K26 ]; 1957
Used Distributor [1110847-5M27 ]; Used Vacuum Wiper Motor; Delco Factory
Re-manufactured Generator Model 10-U, SN: A8257; Delco Factory
Re-manufactured Generator, Model 322-43, SN: A112086.
Magazines For Sale: 1974-Present Classic Chevy International Magazine
Collection. Will sell individually for $3.00 each.
Make an offer for the whole lot or for individual items. No reasonable
offer refused. All parts plus shipping. SG
Gerald L. Graver #99173
684 Canyon View Drive
Goliad, Texas 77963
(361) 645-3189
(775) 522-7756 [Fax]
jjgraver@txcr.net
Sincerely
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Graeme Robinson, INTERNET:g.robinson@grcqs.com
Bob,
Do any of the list members know of any Corvette sites that also have
private Vettes for sale. Any leads would be gratefully received.
Thanks, Graeme
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
Yikes! That message made me cringe! I thought we were about preserving
55-56-57 cars, and you want to dispose of a perfectly good original 6 cyl
engine? I can guarantee that engine has great value! Just a few years
ago I was looking for a 6 for my 56 wagon (the original block was cracked).
If you absolutely don't want it, give it away to someone who will use it or
keep it. You can go to this website and place a free ad:
http://www.chevytalk.com. IT's an excellent site. They have great
classifieds. Surely someone can make use of that engine.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: Bob Ford, BOB_FORD
From: "Dale D.", INTERNET:canyonrose@yahoo.com
>I've heard of a system that uses a switch
>operated valve in the brake hydraulic line. You
>press your foot on the brake, put on the switch and
>the valve maintains the pressure in the system until
>the switch is turned off. It's like the brake pedal
>is on all the time.
I believe the system referred to is a "Mico Brake."
We had this device on our Fire Trucks (back in the
Dark Ages). It basically is a one-way, cam-operated
valve with a 3" lever. We could roll up to a fire
scene, step on the brake pedal, throw the lever, and
NOTHING could move that big truck. You soul be able
to order one of these at NAPA.
One other solution to the car-theft problem is move
out to the sticks, like where I live. We leave our
keys in the ignition and the last vehicle that anyone
can remember stolen was a horse!
-Delivery Dale
Editor's note. We all know what happened to someone who stole a horse in
the old West. Same thing that happened to Tom Dulley.
BOB
__________________________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MTracyccc@aol.com, INTERNET:MTracyccc@aol.com
hello bob and all listers
i am planning some engine compartment work on my 55 post this winter and
need
some help. can the wheel wells be removed without taking the fenders off. i
would like to get a clear shot at the firewall without taking the fenders
off. thanks for any help.
mike in ne il.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Crean", INTERNET:creanie@bellatlantic.net
to jerry casper
in response to the gas left in your tank that you are afraid won't pass
inspection
just a thought but why don't you take a nice ride in the country and just
use the gas
bring an extra gallon or two and run it empty
simple right
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
Bob- with regard to the front wheel bearing controversy...
The hubs to use are found on 1961 thru 1968 full size Chevrolets. While
some roller bearings exist for the original 55 and 56/57 hubs they are
hard to find and expensive. The 61-68 conversion uses bearings and
seals any FLAPS will have in stock, but you will probably never need
them. As for other full size GM rodcts of that era, they used a 5 on 5
wheel bolt pattern and are therefore not what you want, even if they
would fit (and I do not think they do). The 55-57 drum fits right onto
this 61-68 hub, no need for rivets as the wheels hold them on.
As far as theft proofing, if he really wants your car he is gonna get
it. But, any delay will help scare off all but the most professional of
thieves. One trick is to replace the coil to distributor cap wire with
a piece of vacuum tubing of the correct size. An old coil wire will
provide the correct rubber end seals, and a quick few seconds to switch
when you park will drive 99% of them nuts. Another is to run the
ignition switch to distributor/coil wiring through the cigarette
lighter. A little creative wiring makes a lighter into a switch (like a
toggle switch) and this would handle a HEI type circuit.
Just a couple of thoughts...
On the 8th day HE created the 55 Chevrolet
(and GMC Suburban Pickups)
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:calebs3@juno.com, INTERNET:calebs3@juno.com
THOUGHT SOMEONE MIGHT LIKE TO CHECKOUT THIS SITE
HAS SOME GOOD STORIES
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
The 10/13 distribution of the list contained an item from a member who was
interested in removing the spare tire well from the trunk of his '57 sedan
and
then installing a larger capacity tank in the now-vacated space. (I presume
that
he will then be placing either a full-size tire/wheel or a mini-spare
horizontally in the trunk.) Rather than looking at cars in wrecking yards
for
possible tank swaps, I'd suggest that a another approach would be simply to
bring ones' tape measure along to the next few car shows visited. I would
much
rather crawl - with the owners permission of course - under vehicles
displayed
at a car show than under vehicles in a wrecking yard. I'm not sure about
CA, but
around here the ground in wrecking yards tends to be full of broken glass,
snakes, rodents, etc.
Obviously, I'm not suggesting the show vehicle as the source of your tank,
but
only as a good way to identify a source vehicle model. You might also
consider
approaching someone you know who works at a car dealership to see if you
could
do the same thing in their new or used vehicle lot. Again, I'm suggesting a
means of identifying a possible donor vehicle model only! While I haven't
actually made the swap described, I'd think that a tank used in one of the
later
model sport utility vehicles (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, etc.) might come
closest
to what you're looking for in the way of capacity and overall envelope
size.
Also, once a model is identified, you might want to check out the
possibility of
purchasing a new replacement tank rather than a unit from a salvage yard.
While
the salvage yard price will certainly be lower, the cost involved in
cleaning
the tank, repairing and modifying it may be greater than at first thought.
Another possibility you might want to consider is that of using a new tank
originally manufactured for marine use.
Most importantly, make certain that all fumes are removed from any used
tank
prior to attempting any cutting, soldering, or brazing operations that
could
ignite said fumes! I'd suggest rinsing with soapy water and emptying the
tank
several times at a minimum. Then fill it with CO2 from your cars' exhaust
to
assure that all combustible fumes have been displaced if you really want to
undertake modifications yourself. Personally I'd recommend leaving any
necessary
tank modifications to a professional.
Next, a reader questions why disk brakes can be more efficient than drums -
noting that the lining area with the drum system is actually greater in a
number
of cases. It must be recognized that a brake system is used to change
kinetic
energy into heat energy. The advantage of the modern ventilated disk system
lies
primarily in the fact that it is capable of dissipating this heat energy at
a
faster rate than the drum system. This significantly reduces the risk of
brake
fade (often encountered in mountainous terrain with the old drums if the
driver
failed to downshift appropriately on the downgrades). Even so, a properly
maintained drum system as used on the '55-'57 Chevy can be quite
satisfactory in
everyday service - just as they were 40 years ago. Whether to convert or
not is
really dependent upon what type of use you expect to subject the vehicle
to.
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To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Hi Bob,
In answer to Rebag9 (no name given), the conversion to roller bearings does
NOT have to involve replacing the front hubs. Direct replacement
bearings/races are available. Just remove the old ball bearings/races and
tap in the new rollers. They are manufactured in Japan by M.B.S. Bearings.
They are available from Allied Bearing Sales in Los Angeles. No e-mail
address that I know of, but the phone numbers are (800) 421-3658 or (310)
837-0752. The part numbers are B01R for the outer and B40R for the inner.
The inner should price out in the mid-$20's and the outer in the mid-$30's.
You don't need to consider replacing the hubs with either later-model Chevy
or other GM parts. This is the EASY way. I did it on my car, and I'm
heavily into "EASY".
I've been told that the same part numbers are available from other dealers,
but the cost will be about the same. Why bother looking around?
Hope this helps,
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com, INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com
Bob, I need a couple of original 6-stud wheels for my 1955 Chevrolet Cameo
pickup truck. The bumps on the outer rim need to be in good shape to hold
on
a full wheel cover. I'm in Orange County, CA.
Thanks,
Dennis McGillis
949-551-4821
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Dwayne Burgess, INTERNET
rivateeye4u@yahoo.comI have a 57 BelAir Convertable I want to start
restoration on this winter. I would like to start off
with a laundry list of parts & material sources
(catalogs, dealers, etc.) Any help would be
appreciated. Thank you - Dwayne
Editor's note. Dwayne, just post what you want to buy on this list.
There are several vendors on the list that will help you find the parts you
need.
BOB
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
From: INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com, INTERNET:McGillis@aol.com
Bob, please advise Rebag9@aol.com that he should not trash his 1956 235-6
as these are highly desired by those who want a "modern" six cylinder
engine
for their older Chevrolets. If he puts a phone number and location in his
e-mail he will probably be surprised at the response he gets. I do not
know
exactly but $100 to $500 is the kind of prices I see in ads.
Dennis McGillis
OCVCCA
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Troy Pepus", INTERNET:tpepus@hotmail.com
Bob,
Sorry to hear about your car loss.
While "surfing", I came across this web-site that I thought might be of
interest to our group, especially since one of the "hot" topics of late is
auto theft. The site is www.powerlock.com.
Also, I must of missed what kind of car you had stolen. My brother's best
friend had his '89 Toyota Camry stolen right out from under his nose, as he
was sleeping in the room not 6 ft. from where his car was parked.
Apparently, it was a group of kids in his neighborhood that took Camry's
joy-riding, as when they were caught that same night (they got nervous when
a police car passed them and make a quick U-turn), they had a key-ring full
of Camry keys. Yes, the keys around that time frame were interchangeable.
My
brother had an '88 Wagon, and his friend's '89 Sedan keys fit his doors.
Camry owners beware!!
Keep up the good work,
Troy
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To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Louis, INTERNET:lou1@primenet.com
> creanie@bellatlantic.net
>
> in response to the letter from louis about the device that goes on the
> brake pedal
> this is only good on new cars that you have to push the brakes down to
put
> your car in gear
> as for older cars, if the thief wants to steal your car he can use the
> emergency brake for temporary stopping until he gets to a place where he
> can remove it
> this device is no good for us tri five guys
>
> rob crean
i think this device is better than having nothing on the brake pedal.
it surely will make it more difficult. most thieves want to get out fast
and not drive very slowly - as in drive gear with no gas.
however any 55 - 57 car will attract lots of attention parked all alone so
realistically no device will work very well.
louis
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To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GlnnDrvr@cs.com, INTERNET:GlnnDrvr@cs.com
Jennifer. re:tire and wheel size for your 57. Per CCI Chevy World
magazine,
May 96 a 15x8 wheel with a 245/60 will fit with 4 1/2 backspacing. The tire
width will be 10"
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From: Editor
Here is some 50s trivia for you.
What was the last year Chevy used leaf springs in the rear of their cars?
What was Mel Sharpel's occupation?
Also I have a few more copies of the video "The look and feel of the 50s'.
If you would like a copy please send me you address. I will not publish
your address on the list.
BOB
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end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY