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03-06-2018, 11:54 PM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 9:05 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL

THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST

THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.

TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM

THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.

THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE

1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.

TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.

YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.

IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.

THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.

THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: "Waldie, Matt", INTERNET:matt.waldie@attws.com

Bob,
I am desperately seeking a Classic Chevy club in Dallas, TX. Can you help?

Thanks.
Matt
------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: "Waldie, Matt", INTERNET:matt.waldie@attws.com


I would like to answer the questions for the email below.

Thanks.

Matt
-----------------------------------------------------------
> To: "'BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM'", BOB_FORD
> From: "Matsuoka, Mel", INTERNET:MMatsuoka@shaklee.com
>
> I would like to ask fellow members that have experienced
> this conversion, we would like to go with a crate 350 motor and a 700r4
> tranny. The questions that we have are:
> 1) Are there specifications as to where the side motor mounts
> should
> be? Since we have decided to go with a GM HEI distributor, we know that
> the
> engine/trans would need to be moved forward but, how far and exactly
> where?
> We're concerned if the motor is too high/low or straight.
>
If the motor is mounted in the car on the front mounts, then order
a
side motor mount kit from Danchuk and let them know that you want to move
the motor forward one inch. You can then place the new side motor mounts
on
the frame while the motor is in the front mounts and easily determine where
they go by looking at the motor mount holes on the side of your small block
Chevy. Then weld them into place and remove the old motor and cut off the
front motor mounts. You will also want to remove the transmission "dog
ears" which are the mounts on the frame. This will give you the clearance
you need for everything. Remember to figure out what kind of radiator and
core support you will use due to the fact that you are moving the motor
forward.

> 2) Headers? What manufactures and type (block huggers or what) is
> the
> best to clear. Keeping in mind that we have the stock steering box and
> that
> the motor would be moved forward.
>
The best headers for this application are the Doug Thorley's. They
fit perfect.

> 3) Does anyone know if all crate 350's are compatible with all
> intake
> manifolds? We are thinking of a small (600) Holley and Edelbrock intake
> manifold. My mechanic is concerned that the newer engines are designed
> for
> TBI's or fuel injection systems.
>
No not all manifolds, but most. A Holley and Edelbrock will work
fine.

matt.waldie@attws.com

> We are looking at building a cruiser with a little kick.
> But, definitely not a racer! If anyone out there has some experience and
> can help us, we would appreciate it!
>
> Thanks, much!
> Mel
---------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Harry Jenkins, INTERNET:hkjenk@erols.com

Bob,
Welcome back! This is a reply to Joseph Rock on "I would like to prevent
rust/corrosion in this area after the heating removed most of the paint
coating." My recommendation is to use the POR 15 system (or others such
as Eastwood's "Corroless") which has worked great on several of my cars.
I'm currently building a '55 Nomad from a "rust bucket" and am very
concerned about recurring rust. I have POR 15ed virtually all areas
(inside fenders, doors, chassis, floor pans, under dash, under roof.,
etc.). It chemically bonds to the metal and seals out moisture. It dries
like powder coating and leaves a hard glossy surface; an excellent
surface to glue insulation to. I wouldn't recommend treating the top
surfaces that will be painted. It's not cheap but goes a long way. Good
luck,
Harry
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: "Sam Jones", INTERNET:SJ5671@calnet.com

Fellow list members, please join me and go to web site

HTTP://WWW.MYCLASSICCAR.COM and click on icon Contact Us. Tell them
that
they should interview BOB about this list. Like a lot of other list
members, I have more than
1 old car. Bob's list is by far the best of the bunch. I own 3 non Chevy
cars. The lists for these
cars have all died this year. Bob's is the only one that has grown better
each year.

SAM
--------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MIKEI16@aol.com, INTERNET:MIKEI16@aol.com

Hi Bob and fellow list members, I just would like to pass this along to you

and fellow list member. I had several question about a 350 motor that I
am
doing for my 55 chevy, I had a bunch of number and not much luck finding
out
the year and other info about this block, I gave the info to Ed at MorTec
Inc. ( http://www.mortec.com/notepg2.htm ) and he came back with all of
the
info that was needed for me to make some important decision. His web pages

are full of all GM engine blocks, head, cams etc. info. I thought the
fellow
list member might need this from time to time. Thanks again Ed.
Mike Innello
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:fity7nomad@sprintmail.com,
INTERNET:fity7nomad@sprintmail.com

Hi Bob,

On your recent list Carri Denis had a great idea. It was suggested
that we contact the My Classic Car web site and suggest that you and your
devotion to the
hobby through your list be made a part of a future show.

I have done just that. Carri, the web site for the program is
myclassiccar.com put it in
your browser that way and it should come up. There is an area marked
"contact us" and within that area is a place to make suggestions for future
programs. It
would not hurt to have more list members write to them about all of the
great things Bob is doing for our hobby.

Rich, Baltimore MD
------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "Nanette Ward", INTERNET:Nanette-Dave@msn.com

while trying to pre-oil the engine before firing it up, the oil never
came up to the rockers. What I'm dealing with is a 1965, 327ci. that's
been sitting for a few months. The first thing I did was pull the
distributor to install a pre-oiler shaft which I spun with a 3/8 drill
motor. After a couple of minutes, I pulled the preoiler and reinstalled
the distributor, then I pulled the plugs and turned the motor over with the
starter. After a number of 30 second turn overs, there still wasn't any oil
coming out of the push rods. I suspect the distributor may not be
compatable with the oiling system of the motor. Any suggestions?

Editor's note. You should get oil pressure when you use the drill and a
pre-oiler shaft. Did that happen?
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:m_bach@juno.com, INTERNET:m_bach@juno.com

Ref the stuck ignition switch
1) try a small Allen Wrench, it is stiffer and might totally disengage
the pin to unlock it
2) when in doubt WD-40 it! Try a slight spray around the ignition switch
circumference. Perhaps last time it got wedged in too tight?

Steve Evans was an annoncer (usually for Diamond P Productions) at the
drags. A mellow voice and competent, informed man.
__________________________________________________ ______________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "shew", INTERNET:ethan@compunet.net

Hello to Everyone,

I would like to think all the people, and there were quite a few who
responded to sandblasting a car. I was surprised what I learned. Everyone
basically said DON'T DO IT!. I had always thought sandblasting was the way
to go.

I would like to hear some opinions on dipping the body. Would you or would
you not?

I have a 265 complete motor with a 3 speed I am selling for $250 you can
see a picture of it at http://home.naxs.com/shew/homesite005.htm

Thanks again to all the people who respond. You all are really helping my
out.

Charlie Shew
Castlewood, VA
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], Bob_Ford
From: "Thomas Pizzi", INTERNET:rokbiter@hotmail.com

Hi Bob and Fellow TriFivers
First, Thanks Bob for being such a true Tri5'er and giving us this forum.

I keep seeing fellow enthusiast write in about Headers for their Tri5's. I
purchased a set of mid length coated headers thru "Zig's Street Rods"
http://www.zigsstreetrods.com/ last year. When I received them the shipping

box and headers had the Brand name on them. This company is "RodWorks" I
believe somewhere in California. http://www.rodworksheaders.com/. They have

a complete line of header styles,sizes,coated and non to fit different
automotive engine and brand applications. I have the mid length SBC coated
headers on my '56 belair 2dr. sedan. The headers are designed to clear any
steering box and motor mount design. I'm completely happy with them and
have
passed on their name to the list members and friends.

Hope Everyone has a safe and Happy Holiday this Season
Tom
rokbiter@hotmail.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Lisa 64ChevyGirl", INTERNET:my64heart@hotmail.com

Carri excellent idea on getting My Classic Car to interview Bob.
Bob what do you think about it?

To the person who asked where to find parts for his 65 Impala...
I have a 64 SS and have many catalogs. Try these websites:
http://www.impala.blackhills.com/
http://www.impalaparts.com/
http://www.lategreatchevy.com/
http://harmons.com/
You should be able to find what you're looking for with one of those
catalogs.

Also for all the 55-57 people go to this website:
http://members.tripod.com/rainiercc/
There is a cute little chevy animation of a 55' or 56' (sorry not sure
which
one) driving that you can save and use in email etc. :D

Lisa
--------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Bill Kautz", INTERNET:kautz@home.com

Hi Bob,
I'd like to thank all those that responded to my problem with the
ignition switch in my '55. The problem was with the paper clip, I think. It
kept bending before the release pin would disengage. Here's a tip for
anyone else that has this problem. A #55 drill bit, held in a small pair of
"Vise Grip" pliers, will do the trick. The drill bit is more rigid than the
paper clip. Just be careful not to break the bit in the hole. Thanks again,
Bob, for this list. Wild Bill
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
To: "Donna", INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Bill Kautz", INTERNET:kautz@home.com

Hi Donna, I was doing it the right way. The problem was with the paper
clip.
It kept bending before the pin would release all the way. I used a #55
drill
bit, which didn't bend, and it came right out. Thanks for the response. WB
----------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:STINGJIM@aol.com, INTERNET:STINGJIM@aol.com

WANTED: 1956 Chevrolet Nomad. Does not have to be original. Send pictures
and
description by email to Stingjim@aol.com Jim, - Lubbock, Texas
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:stephen@starkfilms.com, INTERNET:stephen@starkfilms.com

Hi Bob

Don't know whether anyone can help with this. I'm trying to track down a
set of 'blue dot' rear lenses for a 57. I know there are loads available -
but some are better than others. My original (excellent) set came from
Volunteer State Chevrolet Parts in Tenessee. I don't have a number for
these guys. Can anyone give a number or recommend another good source?

My thanks (as usual) for your great work Bob.
Stephen
---------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:kautz@home.com
CC: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net

Bill,
You need to have the key in the lock cylinder and it has to be turned
all the way to the left, which is the locked position. Hope this helps.
Donna

Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
-----------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:mears@mailexcel.com, INTERNET:mears@mailexcel.com

O.K., I'm no automotive engineer, but I've got a sweet driver that's a real
panty-dropper and think I should share some needed information.

I have a 57 with a 350/700r and it runs just like you want it to. The
engine has a 292 cam and it's balanced(I suggest the latter strongly). The
HEI ignition system was purchased from the Summit Cataloge, a perfect fit
without moving the engine forward an inch. That's a beautiful little
distributor and a powerful coil too. DON'T move your engine forward.
There's no need. My engine uses the front mounts. Side mounts interfere
with headers. I have some great headers I bought when I lived in Dallas, I
had them coated with a metalic/ceramic that's supposed to last longer than
the metal and after 2 years it seems to be working fine. Now this is
important, buy the best header gaskets you can find and use locking header
bolts. I got these at Summit as well. You'll need to purchase tranny mounts
too. Get the side mounts and the rear mount with the cross member. You'll
then have great support in three places, front, middle and rear. Your drive
shaft will need shortening, then your just about done. Have fun.
Paul.
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: jeff schilp, INTERNET:chevyjeff@yahoo.com

I AM LOOKING FOR A REPUTABLE SHOP IN THE DALLAS TEXAS
AREA THAT RESTORES STAINLESS STEEL TRIM USED ON 55-57
CHEVYS. I AM IN THE PROCESS OF RESTORING THE SIDE
WINDOWS, HARDTOP FLIPPERS AND FELT IN THE WINDOW
ASSEMBLIES OF MY 2 DOOR HARDTOP. IF ANYONE KNOWS A
LOCATION THAT DOES QUALITY WORK PLEASE SEND ME A PHONE
NUMBER OR ADDRESS. THANKS IN ADVANCE
JEFF SCHILP
CHEVYJEFF@YAHOO.COM
972 429 8415
-----------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CHEVYBA55@aol.com, INTERNET:CHEVYBA55@aol.com

To Tom Garrett,
If your timming is good, I would guess that the check ball under the
accelerator pump is stuck. If it is stuck, the accelerator pump can not
suck
fuel into the chamber properly. I've got the same problem on my 55 right
now
and the ball is stuck so serverely that I can't get it out. If you have a
residue, it's a good guess that this is correct. Pop the top of your
carburetor off and check the cylinder where the accelerator pump fits.
there
will be a check ball in there and I bet it's stuck. It's also a possibility

that someone left it out. That would cause the same effect. Rod..........
chevyba55@aol.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:CAPS4@aol.com, INTERNET:CAPS4@aol.com

Hi Bob & all Tri-Fiver's out there,
I own a 55 Nomad and want to install a stock, original windshield
washer
unit in my car. I am very confused as to what parts I need to acquire and
also understand there were two different style units installed in 55's. I
can tell you that I have electric wipers, and also have a 55 washer jar
(with
pump inside??) and the mounting brackets. Can any members out there shed
some light on this subject and tell me what additional parts I would need
and
what is the best route to take??? Also if any members have any of the
parts
I might need to make this work I'd appreciate it if you would contact me.
Thanks, Pete Cap <caps4@aol.com>
------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:D56CHEVY@aol.com, INTERNET:D56CHEVY@aol.com

> To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
> From: Carri Denis, INTERNET:jul448@aol.com
>
> Does anyone know how to contact the "My Classic Car" people. I would
like
> to ask them
> to interview Bob so we could all see him. He has done so much for us
> TriFive people that he
> should be interviewed on that show.

They are the same people who do Hemmings.com and I sent it on for you ...

Lenny Schaeffer
Malden MA
President
Bearing Burners Car Club
781-397-1322
--------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:D56CHEVY@aol.com, INTERNET:D56CHEVY@aol.com

>
> The World of Wheels Car Show will be held in Boston at the Bayside
> Exposition Center on January 5-7, 2001. The promoter also will hold a
> World of Wheels Car Show in Phoenix, AZ the same weekend. Any bets on
> which show will be warmer?
>

I know which show will be warmer but the BOSTON show will definitely be
HOT!!! I was asked to display my 56 Chevy in the show this year...
Yippee-Anyone who wasn't to see it can email me for a PIC or try
hotrodders.com - it is the featured vehicle this week.
and thanks Cliff for coming through with your help as well as everyone who
emailed me about a radiator- I went with the polished Griffin one and it
looks great.

thanks
D56chevy@aol.com
Lenny Schaeffer
Malden MA
President
Bearing Burners Car Club
781-397-1322
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
To: [unknown], Bob_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com


Let's try this again. First time apparently did not go through -
---------------------- Forwarded by Roy R. Nagel/US/GM/GMC on 12/06/2000
07:57
AM ---------------------------


Roy R. Nagel
12/05/2000 02:59 PM

To: BOB FORD <BOB_FORD@compuserve.com, marc.mazerolle@gnb.ca
cc:
Subject: Buick Engines (Document link not converted)

Possibly someone else has replied to your question in the 11/29
distribution,
but I haven't seen anything. So here goes my two cents!

The 300 cubic inch V8 in your '66 Skylark is (presuming it is the original
engine) actually a cast-iron block development of the earlier 215 cubic
inch
Buick/Olds aluminum V8. It is related to both the Buick V6, in its various
displacements, and the later 340 and 350 cubic inch Buick V8. None of the
above
engines are related to the small block Chevy (keeping in mind that the
Chevy
small block was later used in some Buick models beginning around the mid
1970's).

The 401 "Nailhead" you purchased out of a '63 LeSabre is a completely
different
design. It was used in the full-size Buicks through the 1966 model year, as
well
as in the Skylark GS. This engine started out with the '53 model year at
322
cubic inches, and was later manufactured in 364 and 425 cubic inch
displacements
as well. There may have been some others too, but I am not aware of any and
have
no access to references at this time. Exhaust manifolds for the 401 bear no
resemblance to the Chevy big block.

Since GM did originally offer the 401 in the Buick Skylark for '66, I'm
certain
you could install it. However, springs will have to changed (the engine is
considerably heavier) at least the front brakes should be upgraded, etc.
If I
were you, I'd invest in a copy of a reprint or original Buick service
manual for
a '66 Skylark. It should give you some indications as to what differs
between
the base Skylark and the Skylark GS before you start to re-create one.

Good Luck,

Roy Nagel
PS to Bob:

Re the "birds in the truck" problem and the reference to a 747 not placing
any
load on the ground below it -

I agree with Mr. Lyle Braken that it is entirely safe to be directly under
a 747
just after takeoff (that you would not feel any load) , but this is because
the
load is distributed over an essentially infinite area! The birds are flying
in
an enclosed box - and this is a different problem entirely. Not even the
politicians can repeal Newtons' Laws!

Editor's note. I bet they would try to repeal Newtow's Laws if given a
chance. Perhaps a big contribution might get them started on the repeal.
<G>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:nanners1@flash.net, INTERNET:nanners1@flash.net

hi i have a question for the list
i have two 55 chevys 1 two door and four door
my question is will the 2 door body fit on the 4 door frame?
thanks
charles nanners1@flash.net
oklahoma
---------------------------------------------------
FROM: Editor

All of the radios on our TriFives and all other cars of that time period
had a small triangle at the
640Kz and 1240Kz location on the dial. What did these small triangles mean
and what was the name of the system that used these 2 raido frequencies.
If you are really into radio history, what did the system name XXXXXXXX
mean?
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY