TriChrome
03-07-2018, 12:16 AM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 9:42 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
Bob - the current postings about rear shock mountings started many years
ago with Nomads. They developed a crack immediately behind the doors
where the quarter panels met the roof support, and the theory was that
the rear shock action on the floorboards actually sprung the body
slightly at each bump, thus the crack.
In 1975, we built a support from some healthy tubing about 1-1/2" in
diameter, but it would still take a bend on the local muffler shops
bender (we bent it a little towards the floorboards for clearance and
welded it to the frame rails). We used Grade 8 5/8" bolts through the
tubing and the front shocks from a 1/2 ton pickup (loop on both ends).
Worked great after filling up the floorboard holes and the cracks in the
support pillars for the 16 or so years that I enjoyed that car.
On the 8th day HE created the 55 Chevrolet
(and GMC Suburban Pickups)
http://community.webtv.net/mr55chev/555657CHEV
--------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:oletrucks@autox.team.net
To: [unknown], INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "jcerniglia", INTERNET:jcerniglia@email.msn.com
Very interesting concept, but the most important thing to remember
that these trucks were never designed to travel at todays highway
speeds. The brake system on them with the original drums and
non power brake will make traveling at those speeds extremely
dangerous as you would never be able to stop in a quick enough
time if need be on the highway. It all comes down to if you plan
on re gearing your truck wether it be through gears or a tranny
swap like this one, allays plan on at least converting the front
to power disc brakes, well the whole brake system will be power
but the rear can be left as with the original drums to mirror todays
production trucks, just my two cents.
Jeff Cerniglia
Bristol Ct.
59 GMC Fleetside
57 Chevrolet Belair
64 Pontiac Catalina
47 Harley Flathead
------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:oletrucks@autox.team.net
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com, INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com
( Lister's Disclaimer - I'm not the originator of this article, just
passing it along, I make no claims expressed or implied as to it's
technical
reliability, cost, etc. :?) )
( Article based on author's restomizing a '58 1/2-ton Apache p/u,
former
utility truck )
I picked up the February issue of Petersen's Custom Classic Trucks
magazine awhile back, which has a number of interesting items in it. One is
a
'57 Chevy Suburban artist's concept with a Nomad/Cameo theme. Neat! The
other
is a tech article on using the Mopar A-833 New Process aluminum 3-speed
with
Overdrive trans ( used in '70s era Plymouth Dusters, etc ), the article
which
I just got around to reading.
One of the biggest problems for driving an original old Chevy truck is
the horrendous rear gear ratios which aren't meant for high-speed driving,
and changing out the gears is an expensive and involved job if no one in
your
area is capable of it. So, what to do? The old OD trannys would be nice,
but
parts are hard to find, and expensive. So what's left? By utilizing this
tranny from a Mopar, you get the OD you need ( .73 Final Drive ratio ),
with
a more modern transmission, and it's almost a BOLT-IN. Here's the good
points
:
ADVANTAGES
1) Fairly easy to still find
2) Uses Chevy bolt pattern to bolt to original Chevy bell housing
3) Uses Chevy 23-spline driveshaft yoke ( original's were 18 )
4) Transmission is exactly the same length as original 3-speeds from
late
'50's/early '60s, no need to replace driveshaft
5) Aluminum casing, lighter weight ( there are cast iron A-833's, which
are 4-spd but aren't OD, and are more common than aluminum types, but DON'T
USE )
6) used behind Mopar small blocks as well as slant six, so can handle
the
smaller v-8's as well.
7) Has built-in back-up light switch
Ok, that was easy enough...any bad points? well, it's never TOO easy...lol!
Here's the other stuff :
DISADVANTAGES
1) need to have front bearing retainer turned down on lathe to fit ( or
buy a replacement, P/N 452696 )
2) Speedometer will need to be re calibrated, it was designed to run
off
the rear axle ratio, even when going thru the transmission, so the OD will
affect the reading. They suggested using a Dakota Digital instrument
cluster
to replace the original cluster - read, more money
3) Have to use a floor shifter, so gotta cut that hole in the floor!
Luckily, it appears to all be in the trans floor plate, so it won't mess up
your main cab floor anyway.
So, that's about it. The author figured his engine would be turning
about
3,100 rpm with the original truck axle ratio, with the Mopar OD trans, it
would turn 2,670 in OD. He swapped his axle ratio for a 3.90 : 1, though.
Even keeping the 4.11, a 430 rpm savings is a big deal, allowing you to
cruise on the highway easier at 60, than winding it out at 50. I'll
probably
be looking to find one of these myself, for a future conversion project,
although I have an automatic in my '55 TF Suburban at the moment.
As I mentioned, at the top, I have no direct experience or knowledge
about this conversion, so talk to a transmission shop about these OD units
before attempting it. I intend to talk to my Trans guy, he's a real winner
who knows alot about gear-boxes, has raced cars as well, so he should know
about these Mopar units, and how well they'll stand up to a daily-driver
use.
I already have two original OD units, one a rebuilt '57, the other a '58
which needs alot of work and is missing the expensive solenoid, so this
might
be a better way to go with a modern unit. well, time to hit the road, and
get
busy. Everyone have a good weekend.
Jerry Casper
Woodbridge, VA
---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "cpalmer", INTERNET:cpalmer3@home.com
I have a 57 conv. with a 2x4 set-up and have finally been able to find and
afford an original bat wing air cleaner . I would like to convert it from
the oil bath to filter elements , like I have seen in the plastic
reproductions, but do not know what type or size to use . Is there anyone
out there who has done this or know what filter element to use ?
Thank you .
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com, INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com
I wouldn't recommend making your own shock mounts or any structural part
for a car. I see we have a few 'weekend warriors' who designed, welded,
fabricated and installed shock mounts out of various metals, pipes, etc.
Ignore these backyard engineers.
For the time, trouble and energy it takes to make one it's cheaper and
safer to buy one ready made. I don't care how easier the home-made,
slapped-together, jerry-rigged versions are or how better they fit or how
easier it is to change shocks.
Mechanical engineers go through many years of schooling to understand
metal stress, metallurgy and structural supports. So while some of you
'backyard engineers' may grab some piece of steel laying around the junk
pile and think, "hmmmm...this looks 'perty' tough I think I'll go ahead
and support tons of weight with it" this is looking for trouble. While
it's nice to be like the pioneer days and be 'rough and tough' and make
things it's much better to rely on real engineers who design things
all day and companies that have millions of dollars in test equipment.
chassis or any support on a car not only has to hold up the dead weight of
a car but terrific stresses as the car bounces around, steers, stops,
brakes suddenly, etc. I think frames have to actually be a little flexible
and cant be too rigid. also we may look at 2 pieces of steel and while
they look the same one may be very heavy and look strong and tough, the
other light and maybe a little flexible. one could be brittle and crack
under a load but is great for making hammers and the other maybe for
making nails.
louis
--------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Fred Lossman", INTERNET:lossman@telis.org
Tom, you asked for recommendations re an auto transporter. I had excellent
results with Passport Transport, Ltd. They moved my '55 in an enclosed
trailer from Kansas to Northern Calif. Not the cheapest but I didn't want
to chance any problem. They provided excellent references and feedback
throughout the whole process. I'd use them again.
St. Louis, MO 800-325-4267, 314-878-5777, fax 1-314-878-7295.
Fred Lossman
------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Mark C Bach, INTERNET:m_bach@juno.com
The gent with the jig to straighten the nomad tail gates is
Jerry Cabunoc
(714) 558-8890
--------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Steve Case", INTERNET:cases.chevy.parts@prodigy.net
In regards to John Leonards e-mail, the cheap shot he takes at me speaks
for itself as to one reason why I don't care to sell parts to him. I don't
care to do business with this type of person. I really don't believe this
list is the place for John to take his problems to. As said before, this
list should be kept friendly and informative, be thankful this list exist.
For the record, I do have posi units as well as convertible quarter windows
available to my customers! Respectfully, Steve Case
------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Warren Kramer", INTERNET:wrkchevy@hotmail.com
The reason the Case's wont part with John Leonard's request is because the
item needed is on a restorable vehicle. I have delt with Steve for the
past
couple of years and have found him to be VERY fair and willing to help
whenever he can.
I don't believe that removing a needed item from a restorable vehicle is
unreasonable.
Warren
----------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "ROGER L. COTTEN", INTERNET:R.COTTEN@worldnet.att.net
POR 15 products corporation makes a gas tank sealer system that cleans
primes and has this amazing stuff that fills pinholes and stops rust
permanently, has enough in one kit to clean two tanks and seal one. My dad
used this on his '55 and I used it on my '57. It took three days or so
start
to finish for each one. Also I had a similar problem with my carb and dirt.
There is probably sand and stuff in your tank. You will have to remove the
tank from the car. remember to blast your fuel line with compressed air to
get out and crud that might be there too (disconnect from pump).
Does anyone know an easy way to identify the year of a cast iron
powerglide?
Where to look? etc.
FOR SALE: 1958-62 283. Runs fine. I may have a 57 powerglide, need ID info
above. Free+ shipping:pair of fiberglass front fenders for a 55.
Email if interested. R.Cotten@worldnet.att.net
-----------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Marilyn Dorr", INTERNET:marilyn@netins.net
Hi Bob and list members, just need some info on 700r trans. I have located
some used ones and my question is, what kind of car or pickup or whatever
would be the best to adapt for my 57? Some of the 700rs have cable drives
for speedometers and most are electric pickups for their speedometers.. I
am not sure yet if I will use my factory gauges or go with a digital dash
which would require a electric pickup. I know some of you list members
have made this swap and just wondering what you did. I want to get my parts
already to go by summer. Any info would be appreciated. Roger in Iowa
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
BOB_FORD@compuserve.com writes:
> I hope someone has an answer to the question on the last list about
> proportioning valves on a disk brake systems. I am going to change my
all
> drum brakes to all disk brakes. 2 catalogs I have say that you need a
> proportioning valve on an all disk brake system but not on an all drum
> system. Are they just trying to sell more parts or is a proportioning
> valve really needed on an all disk brake system.
>
> Make sure you use a dual master cylinder w/ a 1 3/32 bore for disc/disc
> combo. The reason for a porportioning valve is the control front to rear
> braking. The front brakes do 70% of the work, so you need to adjust
> accordingly. You can either use a fixed porportioning valve or an
> adjustable one. Nice thing w/ the adjustable, is the ability to fine tune
> front-to-rear braking. With the adjustable, you may need to use the 2 lb
> residual line valves as well. And yes, you also need one for disc/drum
or
> drum/drum applications as well (w/ dual mc).
> If you are buying a kit, they are selling you the correct stuff, so
listen
> to them.
> Steves55@chevytalk.com
> 55-57 Modified Moderator
>
-------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Anthony Babiak", INTERNET:TheBabiaks@prodigy.net
>>>
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Clint Goulet", INTERNET:cgishere2@home.com
Thanks Bob for the hard work!!! This may have been covered before but does
a
55 Chevy 4 dr wagon front bench seat fit in a 57 2 dr handyman wagon
application ?? I have the handyman and it has bucket seats but I would like
a bench so my sweetie could slide on over when we are cruzin. If anyone is
sure let me know, thanks in advance. email at cgishere2@home.com.
Clint Goulet, Michigan..
<<<
Clint: That front seat should fit OK but remember, it doesn't fold forward
to allow access to the rear seat like a two door front seat will.
-----------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
> My question is for Louis in n.y., why do you say, not to weld
> the
> rear shock bar and to bolt it instead. I am putting one on mine and was
> wanting to weld it. If you say, there is not enough strength in the side
> rails and the welds will break the frame away, then couldn't I weld a
> larger
> plate for more reinforcement? I'm afraid that by drilling holes thru the
> frame that it will weaken it.
Mine's welded in & that's what I'd recommend to anyone thinking about
installing one on their car. In addition to saving your trunk floor, it
will
beef up the frame. Crawl under your car & check the frame. You have a front
crossmember, glide mounts to trans (if stock), and a flimsey rear bar near
bumper- that's it! The body holds the rest in place. Welding in a shock
bar
is the way to go. If it's installed properly, it will never have to be
removed. As for the frame not supporting the welds? Not true. My car has
over
500 hp and that's quite the test on a frame.
If you can't get your shocks off w/o removing the bar, you have installed
it
wrong!
Mine is built from 1 1/2 moly tubing w. studs on side of tube so I can use
a
shock w/ eyes at both ends. This is the type to use. The ladder type one's
out there (Danchuk) are junk and will bend in middle over time. I know
several people who have changed from the ladder type to a tubuliar type.
The
best looking & fitting bar is sold by Earl at Williams Classic Chassis
www.williamsclassicchassisworks.com. His is a moly tube w/ studs and is
installed by drilling hole in frame, slipping bar in & weld in place.
Steves55@Chevytalk.com
55-57 Modified Moderator
www.chevytalk.com
-------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Rick Williams", INTERNET:rickerwill@worldnet.att.net
Classic Buds:
It seems there is a variety of opinions on whether a proportioning valve
should be used with a disc-disc brake setup on our cars. I vote YES! Here
is the reason. . . . The goal of the proportioning valve is to improve
brake balancing under severe application of the brakes. Most master
cylinders do not, by themselves, provide this balance. When you hit the
skids, much of the vehicle's rear weight is transferred to the front wheels
of the car, and the resulting decrease in downforce at the rear wheels
dramatically reduces braking efficiency. The proportioning valve limits
the
pressure to the rear brakes (typically, it results in a 70-30 front/rear
distribution), to reduce the tendency for decreased brake efficiency. The
proportioning valve also often contains a bypass feature that allows for
full system pressure to the rear brakes in the event of a front brake
failure. Similarly, full front pressure is maintained in the event of
failure of the rear system. It is not only a performance part that will
give a noticeable difference on hard braking, but a safety feature that
could save your life if a portion of your system takes a dive unexpectedly.
Don't go without it. It is not an expensive part to add to your system as
you construct it, and it might end up being the most important part of your
brakes in the case of an emergency stop or a line or caliper leak.
Reno Rick
(Motoring safely with well-proportioned brakes!)
----------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "jimj", INTERNET:jimj@gate.net
Comments re. spring around brake drum -
They were available on 15" drums pre 1957.
My understanding was that they were to stop
vibration and brake 'squeal' . The heat transfer
idea is new to me, but makes some sense.
JimJ.
----------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:classicchevy@bigfoot.com, INTERNET:classicchevy@bigfoot.com
Referring to Tom in the other LA - Lower Alabama
reference to cleaning the fuel tank of your classic
Chevy; I tried about everything on the market to get
the "junk/rust" out of my 1956 Chevy, including taking
the tank off and having a company in Seattle do a
cleaning; but after a few months more rust came off
the walls, and I had the problem once again...The best
way to correct this problem permanently is buy a new
"orginal" fuel tank, I paid approximately $76.50 for
mine and the classic Chevy has ran terrific ever
since. classicchevy@bigfoot.com from Western
Washington. PS Keep up the great work Bob.
Gary
---------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:PMc9355592@aol.com, INTERNET:PMc9355592@aol.com
Thanks for all the hard work, Bob!!!
To Dan Rock: If you have a cowl tag on your car almost
anyone on the list could tell you what the orig. inter. &
paint were.
Jim McEvoy 56 BA coupe
---------------------
CC: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "WADE H. WATTS", INTERNET:watereemechser@mindspring.com
In response to Bob McNulty's question about engine swap from Camero. Bob,
the engine and transmission will fit in your car but you need to do a few
things first.
Since you are going to use the HEI (good idea) you will need to position
the
engine foward. You can order either 3/4 inch or 1 inch forward side engine
mounts (I used the 1 inch on mine) and get the rear transmission cross
member and the job is pretty simple. The 78 model did not have the tune
port
injection but you would probably want to change out the exhaust manifolds
for earlier model ram horn manifolds or headers. ( The 78 had the fresh air
tubes on them)
You can use the ac compressor and brackets but you will need to order a
condenser, evaporater and heater/ac controls for your car.
The power steering pump and brackets will work also and I am assuming that
you are going with the 605 power steering box. (Good Idea)
The disc brake set up from the camero will not work on your car, you will
need parts from the early 70 midsize cars for this. It is usually better to
order the complete conversion kit from a vender, (there are several good
ones on Bob's list)
Hope this info helps and feel free to contact me if I can help in the
future.
Good Luck, Wade Watts
-----------------------------------
To: "55-56-57 chevy", BOB_FORD
From: "Bruce Matthews", INTERNET:bruce@stormnet.com
Hello Bob from Northern California, This post is a little off year for the
list, but I know motorheads are motorheads and we are always looking at
other years and models. This is a plea for help in finding the whereabouts
of a piece of me. I saw list member Dennis McGillis' say he is a member of
the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America. I wanted to direct the following to
Dennis, and also to list members. Hello Dennis, I do not think we have ever
met, but we might have. I used to belong in the VCCA in the '70s and 80's
in the Long Beach area. I owned a 1946 Chevy Sedan Delivery. A very nice
one. It was painted black lacquer with silver fenders, an outside sun visor
and had 16 inch whitewall tires. I had it in most every VCCA show at
Lakewoods' Mayfair park during those years. The car worked it's way up in
the points and finally won the First Prize Cup for it's category. I sold
the car in 1989 and it went to the Mojave area and then I was told it was
sold at the Pomona Swap meet a year or two later. And that's where I lost
track of it. I have contacted the DMV and also went to their archives valt.
They say the car does not exist. So I'm thinking it's out of the state or
it's in someone's collection. Chevy only made a little less than 5000 of
these. And in all the years I drove it only 6 other people told me they
have one or had one. So it is a rather a rare car.
I was just wondering if anyone has ever seen this car, it was so
much a part of me for so many years. And a special thank you to Bob for all
you do. Thanks, Bruce bruce@stormnet.com
-----------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Purvey", INTERNET:rpurvey@primus.ca
Richard
Checked some through some books and you are right the heat disapation
spring on the outside of the brake drums were also used on 15" wheels. This
is what happens when you assume something. Sorry for the trouble.
Bob Purvey
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 9:42 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net
Bob - the current postings about rear shock mountings started many years
ago with Nomads. They developed a crack immediately behind the doors
where the quarter panels met the roof support, and the theory was that
the rear shock action on the floorboards actually sprung the body
slightly at each bump, thus the crack.
In 1975, we built a support from some healthy tubing about 1-1/2" in
diameter, but it would still take a bend on the local muffler shops
bender (we bent it a little towards the floorboards for clearance and
welded it to the frame rails). We used Grade 8 5/8" bolts through the
tubing and the front shocks from a 1/2 ton pickup (loop on both ends).
Worked great after filling up the floorboard holes and the cracks in the
support pillars for the 16 or so years that I enjoyed that car.
On the 8th day HE created the 55 Chevrolet
(and GMC Suburban Pickups)
http://community.webtv.net/mr55chev/555657CHEV
--------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:oletrucks@autox.team.net
To: [unknown], INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "jcerniglia", INTERNET:jcerniglia@email.msn.com
Very interesting concept, but the most important thing to remember
that these trucks were never designed to travel at todays highway
speeds. The brake system on them with the original drums and
non power brake will make traveling at those speeds extremely
dangerous as you would never be able to stop in a quick enough
time if need be on the highway. It all comes down to if you plan
on re gearing your truck wether it be through gears or a tranny
swap like this one, allays plan on at least converting the front
to power disc brakes, well the whole brake system will be power
but the rear can be left as with the original drums to mirror todays
production trucks, just my two cents.
Jeff Cerniglia
Bristol Ct.
59 GMC Fleetside
57 Chevrolet Belair
64 Pontiac Catalina
47 Harley Flathead
------------------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:oletrucks@autox.team.net
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com, INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com
( Lister's Disclaimer - I'm not the originator of this article, just
passing it along, I make no claims expressed or implied as to it's
technical
reliability, cost, etc. :?) )
( Article based on author's restomizing a '58 1/2-ton Apache p/u,
former
utility truck )
I picked up the February issue of Petersen's Custom Classic Trucks
magazine awhile back, which has a number of interesting items in it. One is
a
'57 Chevy Suburban artist's concept with a Nomad/Cameo theme. Neat! The
other
is a tech article on using the Mopar A-833 New Process aluminum 3-speed
with
Overdrive trans ( used in '70s era Plymouth Dusters, etc ), the article
which
I just got around to reading.
One of the biggest problems for driving an original old Chevy truck is
the horrendous rear gear ratios which aren't meant for high-speed driving,
and changing out the gears is an expensive and involved job if no one in
your
area is capable of it. So, what to do? The old OD trannys would be nice,
but
parts are hard to find, and expensive. So what's left? By utilizing this
tranny from a Mopar, you get the OD you need ( .73 Final Drive ratio ),
with
a more modern transmission, and it's almost a BOLT-IN. Here's the good
points
:
ADVANTAGES
1) Fairly easy to still find
2) Uses Chevy bolt pattern to bolt to original Chevy bell housing
3) Uses Chevy 23-spline driveshaft yoke ( original's were 18 )
4) Transmission is exactly the same length as original 3-speeds from
late
'50's/early '60s, no need to replace driveshaft
5) Aluminum casing, lighter weight ( there are cast iron A-833's, which
are 4-spd but aren't OD, and are more common than aluminum types, but DON'T
USE )
6) used behind Mopar small blocks as well as slant six, so can handle
the
smaller v-8's as well.
7) Has built-in back-up light switch
Ok, that was easy enough...any bad points? well, it's never TOO easy...lol!
Here's the other stuff :
DISADVANTAGES
1) need to have front bearing retainer turned down on lathe to fit ( or
buy a replacement, P/N 452696 )
2) Speedometer will need to be re calibrated, it was designed to run
off
the rear axle ratio, even when going thru the transmission, so the OD will
affect the reading. They suggested using a Dakota Digital instrument
cluster
to replace the original cluster - read, more money
3) Have to use a floor shifter, so gotta cut that hole in the floor!
Luckily, it appears to all be in the trans floor plate, so it won't mess up
your main cab floor anyway.
So, that's about it. The author figured his engine would be turning
about
3,100 rpm with the original truck axle ratio, with the Mopar OD trans, it
would turn 2,670 in OD. He swapped his axle ratio for a 3.90 : 1, though.
Even keeping the 4.11, a 430 rpm savings is a big deal, allowing you to
cruise on the highway easier at 60, than winding it out at 50. I'll
probably
be looking to find one of these myself, for a future conversion project,
although I have an automatic in my '55 TF Suburban at the moment.
As I mentioned, at the top, I have no direct experience or knowledge
about this conversion, so talk to a transmission shop about these OD units
before attempting it. I intend to talk to my Trans guy, he's a real winner
who knows alot about gear-boxes, has raced cars as well, so he should know
about these Mopar units, and how well they'll stand up to a daily-driver
use.
I already have two original OD units, one a rebuilt '57, the other a '58
which needs alot of work and is missing the expensive solenoid, so this
might
be a better way to go with a modern unit. well, time to hit the road, and
get
busy. Everyone have a good weekend.
Jerry Casper
Woodbridge, VA
---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "cpalmer", INTERNET:cpalmer3@home.com
I have a 57 conv. with a 2x4 set-up and have finally been able to find and
afford an original bat wing air cleaner . I would like to convert it from
the oil bath to filter elements , like I have seen in the plastic
reproductions, but do not know what type or size to use . Is there anyone
out there who has done this or know what filter element to use ?
Thank you .
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com, INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com
I wouldn't recommend making your own shock mounts or any structural part
for a car. I see we have a few 'weekend warriors' who designed, welded,
fabricated and installed shock mounts out of various metals, pipes, etc.
Ignore these backyard engineers.
For the time, trouble and energy it takes to make one it's cheaper and
safer to buy one ready made. I don't care how easier the home-made,
slapped-together, jerry-rigged versions are or how better they fit or how
easier it is to change shocks.
Mechanical engineers go through many years of schooling to understand
metal stress, metallurgy and structural supports. So while some of you
'backyard engineers' may grab some piece of steel laying around the junk
pile and think, "hmmmm...this looks 'perty' tough I think I'll go ahead
and support tons of weight with it" this is looking for trouble. While
it's nice to be like the pioneer days and be 'rough and tough' and make
things it's much better to rely on real engineers who design things
all day and companies that have millions of dollars in test equipment.
chassis or any support on a car not only has to hold up the dead weight of
a car but terrific stresses as the car bounces around, steers, stops,
brakes suddenly, etc. I think frames have to actually be a little flexible
and cant be too rigid. also we may look at 2 pieces of steel and while
they look the same one may be very heavy and look strong and tough, the
other light and maybe a little flexible. one could be brittle and crack
under a load but is great for making hammers and the other maybe for
making nails.
louis
--------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Fred Lossman", INTERNET:lossman@telis.org
Tom, you asked for recommendations re an auto transporter. I had excellent
results with Passport Transport, Ltd. They moved my '55 in an enclosed
trailer from Kansas to Northern Calif. Not the cheapest but I didn't want
to chance any problem. They provided excellent references and feedback
throughout the whole process. I'd use them again.
St. Louis, MO 800-325-4267, 314-878-5777, fax 1-314-878-7295.
Fred Lossman
------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Mark C Bach, INTERNET:m_bach@juno.com
The gent with the jig to straighten the nomad tail gates is
Jerry Cabunoc
(714) 558-8890
--------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Steve Case", INTERNET:cases.chevy.parts@prodigy.net
In regards to John Leonards e-mail, the cheap shot he takes at me speaks
for itself as to one reason why I don't care to sell parts to him. I don't
care to do business with this type of person. I really don't believe this
list is the place for John to take his problems to. As said before, this
list should be kept friendly and informative, be thankful this list exist.
For the record, I do have posi units as well as convertible quarter windows
available to my customers! Respectfully, Steve Case
------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Warren Kramer", INTERNET:wrkchevy@hotmail.com
The reason the Case's wont part with John Leonard's request is because the
item needed is on a restorable vehicle. I have delt with Steve for the
past
couple of years and have found him to be VERY fair and willing to help
whenever he can.
I don't believe that removing a needed item from a restorable vehicle is
unreasonable.
Warren
----------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "ROGER L. COTTEN", INTERNET:R.COTTEN@worldnet.att.net
POR 15 products corporation makes a gas tank sealer system that cleans
primes and has this amazing stuff that fills pinholes and stops rust
permanently, has enough in one kit to clean two tanks and seal one. My dad
used this on his '55 and I used it on my '57. It took three days or so
start
to finish for each one. Also I had a similar problem with my carb and dirt.
There is probably sand and stuff in your tank. You will have to remove the
tank from the car. remember to blast your fuel line with compressed air to
get out and crud that might be there too (disconnect from pump).
Does anyone know an easy way to identify the year of a cast iron
powerglide?
Where to look? etc.
FOR SALE: 1958-62 283. Runs fine. I may have a 57 powerglide, need ID info
above. Free+ shipping:pair of fiberglass front fenders for a 55.
Email if interested. R.Cotten@worldnet.att.net
-----------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Marilyn Dorr", INTERNET:marilyn@netins.net
Hi Bob and list members, just need some info on 700r trans. I have located
some used ones and my question is, what kind of car or pickup or whatever
would be the best to adapt for my 57? Some of the 700rs have cable drives
for speedometers and most are electric pickups for their speedometers.. I
am not sure yet if I will use my factory gauges or go with a digital dash
which would require a electric pickup. I know some of you list members
have made this swap and just wondering what you did. I want to get my parts
already to go by summer. Any info would be appreciated. Roger in Iowa
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
BOB_FORD@compuserve.com writes:
> I hope someone has an answer to the question on the last list about
> proportioning valves on a disk brake systems. I am going to change my
all
> drum brakes to all disk brakes. 2 catalogs I have say that you need a
> proportioning valve on an all disk brake system but not on an all drum
> system. Are they just trying to sell more parts or is a proportioning
> valve really needed on an all disk brake system.
>
> Make sure you use a dual master cylinder w/ a 1 3/32 bore for disc/disc
> combo. The reason for a porportioning valve is the control front to rear
> braking. The front brakes do 70% of the work, so you need to adjust
> accordingly. You can either use a fixed porportioning valve or an
> adjustable one. Nice thing w/ the adjustable, is the ability to fine tune
> front-to-rear braking. With the adjustable, you may need to use the 2 lb
> residual line valves as well. And yes, you also need one for disc/drum
or
> drum/drum applications as well (w/ dual mc).
> If you are buying a kit, they are selling you the correct stuff, so
listen
> to them.
> Steves55@chevytalk.com
> 55-57 Modified Moderator
>
-------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Anthony Babiak", INTERNET:TheBabiaks@prodigy.net
>>>
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Clint Goulet", INTERNET:cgishere2@home.com
Thanks Bob for the hard work!!! This may have been covered before but does
a
55 Chevy 4 dr wagon front bench seat fit in a 57 2 dr handyman wagon
application ?? I have the handyman and it has bucket seats but I would like
a bench so my sweetie could slide on over when we are cruzin. If anyone is
sure let me know, thanks in advance. email at cgishere2@home.com.
Clint Goulet, Michigan..
<<<
Clint: That front seat should fit OK but remember, it doesn't fold forward
to allow access to the rear seat like a two door front seat will.
-----------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com, INTERNET:Low55chev@aol.com
> My question is for Louis in n.y., why do you say, not to weld
> the
> rear shock bar and to bolt it instead. I am putting one on mine and was
> wanting to weld it. If you say, there is not enough strength in the side
> rails and the welds will break the frame away, then couldn't I weld a
> larger
> plate for more reinforcement? I'm afraid that by drilling holes thru the
> frame that it will weaken it.
Mine's welded in & that's what I'd recommend to anyone thinking about
installing one on their car. In addition to saving your trunk floor, it
will
beef up the frame. Crawl under your car & check the frame. You have a front
crossmember, glide mounts to trans (if stock), and a flimsey rear bar near
bumper- that's it! The body holds the rest in place. Welding in a shock
bar
is the way to go. If it's installed properly, it will never have to be
removed. As for the frame not supporting the welds? Not true. My car has
over
500 hp and that's quite the test on a frame.
If you can't get your shocks off w/o removing the bar, you have installed
it
wrong!
Mine is built from 1 1/2 moly tubing w. studs on side of tube so I can use
a
shock w/ eyes at both ends. This is the type to use. The ladder type one's
out there (Danchuk) are junk and will bend in middle over time. I know
several people who have changed from the ladder type to a tubuliar type.
The
best looking & fitting bar is sold by Earl at Williams Classic Chassis
www.williamsclassicchassisworks.com. His is a moly tube w/ studs and is
installed by drilling hole in frame, slipping bar in & weld in place.
Steves55@Chevytalk.com
55-57 Modified Moderator
www.chevytalk.com
-------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Rick Williams", INTERNET:rickerwill@worldnet.att.net
Classic Buds:
It seems there is a variety of opinions on whether a proportioning valve
should be used with a disc-disc brake setup on our cars. I vote YES! Here
is the reason. . . . The goal of the proportioning valve is to improve
brake balancing under severe application of the brakes. Most master
cylinders do not, by themselves, provide this balance. When you hit the
skids, much of the vehicle's rear weight is transferred to the front wheels
of the car, and the resulting decrease in downforce at the rear wheels
dramatically reduces braking efficiency. The proportioning valve limits
the
pressure to the rear brakes (typically, it results in a 70-30 front/rear
distribution), to reduce the tendency for decreased brake efficiency. The
proportioning valve also often contains a bypass feature that allows for
full system pressure to the rear brakes in the event of a front brake
failure. Similarly, full front pressure is maintained in the event of
failure of the rear system. It is not only a performance part that will
give a noticeable difference on hard braking, but a safety feature that
could save your life if a portion of your system takes a dive unexpectedly.
Don't go without it. It is not an expensive part to add to your system as
you construct it, and it might end up being the most important part of your
brakes in the case of an emergency stop or a line or caliper leak.
Reno Rick
(Motoring safely with well-proportioned brakes!)
----------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "jimj", INTERNET:jimj@gate.net
Comments re. spring around brake drum -
They were available on 15" drums pre 1957.
My understanding was that they were to stop
vibration and brake 'squeal' . The heat transfer
idea is new to me, but makes some sense.
JimJ.
----------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:classicchevy@bigfoot.com, INTERNET:classicchevy@bigfoot.com
Referring to Tom in the other LA - Lower Alabama
reference to cleaning the fuel tank of your classic
Chevy; I tried about everything on the market to get
the "junk/rust" out of my 1956 Chevy, including taking
the tank off and having a company in Seattle do a
cleaning; but after a few months more rust came off
the walls, and I had the problem once again...The best
way to correct this problem permanently is buy a new
"orginal" fuel tank, I paid approximately $76.50 for
mine and the classic Chevy has ran terrific ever
since. classicchevy@bigfoot.com from Western
Washington. PS Keep up the great work Bob.
Gary
---------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:PMc9355592@aol.com, INTERNET:PMc9355592@aol.com
Thanks for all the hard work, Bob!!!
To Dan Rock: If you have a cowl tag on your car almost
anyone on the list could tell you what the orig. inter. &
paint were.
Jim McEvoy 56 BA coupe
---------------------
CC: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "WADE H. WATTS", INTERNET:watereemechser@mindspring.com
In response to Bob McNulty's question about engine swap from Camero. Bob,
the engine and transmission will fit in your car but you need to do a few
things first.
Since you are going to use the HEI (good idea) you will need to position
the
engine foward. You can order either 3/4 inch or 1 inch forward side engine
mounts (I used the 1 inch on mine) and get the rear transmission cross
member and the job is pretty simple. The 78 model did not have the tune
port
injection but you would probably want to change out the exhaust manifolds
for earlier model ram horn manifolds or headers. ( The 78 had the fresh air
tubes on them)
You can use the ac compressor and brackets but you will need to order a
condenser, evaporater and heater/ac controls for your car.
The power steering pump and brackets will work also and I am assuming that
you are going with the 605 power steering box. (Good Idea)
The disc brake set up from the camero will not work on your car, you will
need parts from the early 70 midsize cars for this. It is usually better to
order the complete conversion kit from a vender, (there are several good
ones on Bob's list)
Hope this info helps and feel free to contact me if I can help in the
future.
Good Luck, Wade Watts
-----------------------------------
To: "55-56-57 chevy", BOB_FORD
From: "Bruce Matthews", INTERNET:bruce@stormnet.com
Hello Bob from Northern California, This post is a little off year for the
list, but I know motorheads are motorheads and we are always looking at
other years and models. This is a plea for help in finding the whereabouts
of a piece of me. I saw list member Dennis McGillis' say he is a member of
the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America. I wanted to direct the following to
Dennis, and also to list members. Hello Dennis, I do not think we have ever
met, but we might have. I used to belong in the VCCA in the '70s and 80's
in the Long Beach area. I owned a 1946 Chevy Sedan Delivery. A very nice
one. It was painted black lacquer with silver fenders, an outside sun visor
and had 16 inch whitewall tires. I had it in most every VCCA show at
Lakewoods' Mayfair park during those years. The car worked it's way up in
the points and finally won the First Prize Cup for it's category. I sold
the car in 1989 and it went to the Mojave area and then I was told it was
sold at the Pomona Swap meet a year or two later. And that's where I lost
track of it. I have contacted the DMV and also went to their archives valt.
They say the car does not exist. So I'm thinking it's out of the state or
it's in someone's collection. Chevy only made a little less than 5000 of
these. And in all the years I drove it only 6 other people told me they
have one or had one. So it is a rather a rare car.
I was just wondering if anyone has ever seen this car, it was so
much a part of me for so many years. And a special thank you to Bob for all
you do. Thanks, Bruce bruce@stormnet.com
-----------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Robert Purvey", INTERNET:rpurvey@primus.ca
Richard
Checked some through some books and you are right the heat disapation
spring on the outside of the brake drums were also used on 15" wheels. This
is what happens when you assume something. Sorry for the trouble.
Bob Purvey
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY