PDA

View Full Version : 03/07/2001



TriChrome
03-07-2018, 12:16 AM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:54 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL

THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST

THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.

TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM

THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.

THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE

1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.

TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.

YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.

IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.

THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.

THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________
From:Editor
I will be out of town from Thursday March 8th to Sunday March 11th.
BOB
_____________________
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: bmyers, INTERNET:bmyers@spis.net

In referance to CHEVYLUV57@aol.com :
So, what do you call that? A '57-'56 4-door Amchellac?
You've peeked my interest. I would love to see a picture of it.
If you have one, could you send it to me?

Mopar parts?

Brian Myers
bmyers@spis.net
'57 2-dr post
------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:LMort97881@aol.com, INTERNET:LMort97881@aol.com

I am going to replace a external regulated alternator with a internal
regulated alternator does any one know where I can find a wiring diagram
that
shows which wires go where. Thanks Larry Mort

Editor's note. This month's "Auto Restorer" has an excellent article on
this subject.
BOB
--------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:SIMAD699@aol.com, INTERNET:SIMBAD699@aol.com

Hey Bob

My 57 has a 605 power steering box. I drove my friends 60 Impala with
factory power steering.
His car steers much easier than mine. It takes almost zero effort to drive
his Impala.

Is there something wrong with my Power Steering or does factory power
steering take a lot less effort?

RON
---------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], Bob_FORD
From: "Jim/Carolyn Wheeler", INTERNET:56chevrolet@email.msn.com

This is about installing courtesy lights and a map light. We own two '56
Chevys and, also, a
'75 Olds, Cutlass. I expect GM cars are all about the same when it comes
to this type of an accessory.

We bought our '75 Cutlass new in 1974 and have taken good care of it all
these years. But the
car never had a map light or front courtesy lights which has bugged me.

Recently, we got the accessory kit for a map light and courtesy lights off
of eBay. The seller's ID is "hawley," but the real names are Ed and Joan
Hoffman.

The reason for my message is to offer advice. If you know how to put these
lights in or plan to have a mechanic or auto electrician do it, fine. But
if you want to do it yourself, like I did, don't delay.

I installed the map light first with no problem. You have to be careful
with the 26-28 year old plastic, but if you take your time it's pretty
easy.
Be sure to disconnect the battery before you get started. The wire is live
even with the ignition and headlight switches off.

Next, I did the courtesy light on the driver's side. Again, be sure to
disconnect the battery before you get started. It really helped having the
'75 Cutlass assembly manual I got off eBay a couple months ago. The
courtesy light lead wire was taped to a bundle of wires near the back of
the
speedometer. The connecting end of the lead wire also had tape wrapped
around it, just as noted in the assembly manual.

When I touched the connecting end, the tape fell off in my hand. This left
an open connector on a live wire which leads me to another bit of advice:
if
you get courtesy lights, install them and don't procrastinate. I'm no
expert but to me it's dangerous having a live wire under the dash that's
activated anytime you open a door or turn the headlight switch to the far
left.

I had to drill a hole in the plastic panel under the steering wheel in
order
to install the courtesy light on the driver's side. I did it in stages and
really took my time with the 26 year-old plastic. There were no holes in
the tie bars or whatever where the light fixture could be mounted.

Yesterday, I tackled the courtesy light on the passenger's side.
Disconnect
the battery was my first step. This light was a bigger job than I thought
it would be. There was no choice, I had to remove the glove compartment
and
an A/C panel in the middle of the back of the dash in order to find the
lead
wire. It also had 26 year-old tape around the head of the connector which
identified it as the right wire.

Before inserting the wire end from the courtesy lights, I cleaned up the
connector and made sure of a solid fit. I got everything back together and
all the lights work fine. Open a door and the lights come on. Close the
door and the lights go off.

When I took our Cutlass in to our regular mechanic the week before last he
said if they did the work they'd probably just connect the courtesy lights
to the cigarette lighter or to the ignition switch, depending on which one
we wanted to use. My advice is not to do that. Use the connecting lead
wires under the dash. That's what they're there for and the old tape
worries me.

If I can help advise any further let me know.
--Jim Wheeler, 56Chevrolet@msn.com
-------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com, INTERNET:GremlinGTs@aol.com

I was looking thru a NASCAR book I'd just bought, and noticed something

strange about the side view picture of a '57 Chevy convertible race car
used
on the beaches of Daytona. It actually looked like the front roofline was a

hardtop, as the front windshield frame was thicker behind the chrome, like
it'd been cut off about 3 inches behind, and the safety tube welded up to
it
beside the driver. I know a convertible windshield frame would have been
different. So, did they just cut the tops off the more accessible ( and
cheaper ) hardtops and " make " convertibles out of them? Just curious,
would
make a neat thing to repro one of these for the street, and do it up in the

numbers and paint scheme, etc. Dang, I should have kept that rusty 3-dr
Hardtop I bought just for the A/C parts years ago! LOL.

Jerry
woodbridge, VA
(3) '57 4-dr sedans...
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<<
>>
Does anyone out there have the record: "57 Chevy" by a group called
Truc
?????
I have it recorded on tape, but would like to find the VINYL. Richard
----------------------------------------------
CC: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "WADE H. WATTS", INTERNET:watereemechser@mindspring.com

Steve, A very nice looking pair of bucket seats for the tri5s is from a
1963
or 1964 Chevy Impala Super Sport.

Hope this helps. Wade Watts
--------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Tjjpgarrett@aol.com, INTERNET:Tjjpgarrett@aol.com

In regard to Poweerglide identification: There are two casting numbers:
one
on the torque converter housing and one on the transmission case. The
converter housing number can be found from the rear face on the passenger
side. Jim Richardson lists these converter housing numbers: first design 6

cyl 37708446, 2nd design 8 cyl 3719240 Probably 55/56 8 cyl 3708188
probably 57 8 cyl 3719243. The transmission case numbers for both 6 cyl
and
8 cyl 3708134. The rear case date code is located just ahead of the
casting
number. Example G165 would be July 16, 1955. Remember "I: is not used to
indicate a month since it looks like a "1" and only the last digit of the
year is used. Thanks to Jim Richardson in his book "Tri-Five Chevy
Handbook"
pages 15 and 16.

Tom Garrett
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:PMc9355592@aol.com, INTERNET:PMc9355592@aol.com

To: Tom looking for transport.

Can only pass on one experience I had with Elite Auto
Transports 1-800-470-9904 . Nice people who kept in
touch over the phone to inform me when they would
arrive. Enclosed trailer at a price below any other quotes
that I have seen.

Jim McEvoy 56 B A Hrdtp.\
------------------------------------------
To: "BOB_FORD@compuserve.com", BOB_FORD
From: Jim Morgan, INTERNET:jim@unitedcoldstorage.com

Thanks again for the List Bob.
Here's a tip for you motorheads who want to save some small portion of
the list for future reference but who, like me, are not computerheads.
My son, who also programs my VCR and my digital clocks, showed me how to
copy just the portion I am interested in and save it to Word rather than
print out the whole List.
Highlight the part you want to save, right click, and copy.
Minimize your email screen, and open Word.
Open the "white sheet" (new document).
Right click and paste.
Name it what you want and save it in a Bob Ford folder.
There's probably a simpler way, but this sure saved me a lot of paper.
Jim
57 Nomad
--------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JWargowski@aol.com, INTERNET:JWargowski@aol.com

Is it necessary to change the length of the steering column shaft when
upgrading to 605/power steering? I'd like to do this on my 56 210 wagon,
and
was looking at the www.classicperform.com website (distributors of a
upgrade
kit) and they show that the column needs to be shortened (cut and rewelded)

by 4". Is this the case with all power steering conversions? Can anyone
steer
(no pun intended) me to a complete conversion kit? Truth be know I'm too
lazy
to source all the parts separately. Thanks!

Jim
56 210 Wagon
-----------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "EDWARD DONELAN", INTERNET:sivle2000@email.msn.com

Hi Bob, Do you have a list of all the '57 Chevys still on the road? My
brother's '57 BelAir 2 door was stolen a long time ago. I would
sure like to know if it is still around! I have THE '57 CHEVY CONVERTIBLE
that was BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN'S famous ride in the "Born to Run" days. I would
like to sell it as it is just sitting around doing nothing and I could sure
use the money! I would have to get big money for it or it wouldn't be
worth selling. It runs and drives, but does need restoration. THANKS for
listening Ed

Editor's note. Edward, I don't think there is a list of every 57 still on
the road. If there was, I would like to check it to see where my old 57
is.
BOB
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu, INTERNET:hsieck@unlnotes.unl.edu

Louis,

What about back yark engineers that are mechanical engineers?
Hugh H Sieck III P.E.
B.S. Physics Nebraska Wesleyan University 1993
B.S. Mechanical Engineering Washington University St. Louis 1994
Nebraska Mechanical Engineer
Liscense # E-9879
-----------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:GlnnDrvr@cs.com, INTERNET:GlnnDrvr@cs.com

> vernon@apex2000.net
> I'm really pushed for time right now but I have mounting instructions for

> mine. Will look in the garage papers for it and scan it for you.
Hopefully
> tonite, maybe tomorrow.
>
------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "DAVE HENDERSON", INTERNET:davehenderson@sprintmail.com

Bob: Reference (Case's Chevy won't part with his parts) is not a true
statement, as Steve Case has helped me more than once in the past
few years ( recently cut out rear quarter fender bumper brackets from
a 55 & sold them to me for $3.50 @). Many shops would not waste their
time on this. I recently ask him for front door pillar skins (adjacent to
the windshield sides 1955 Belair post), He immediately replied that his
salvage cars were not good enough to suit my needs. Steve is very
knowledgeable & has tried his best to help me every time I have contacted
him. If anyone could help me with these used parts I would appreciate.
I can e-mail a picture of the rusted area to better explain my needs.
Thanks again for your labor & site, (us old guys are still learning), as I
would have lost money on the brake drum spring deal.Also I installed 4
wheel
power disc on my 55, with the recommended non-adjustable proportioning
valve & they work great This is not an area to skimp on $.
Dave Henderson
davehenderson@sprintmail.com

------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Leonardjohn@firestoneindustrial.com,

Bob,
1967 was the first year for optional disc brakes on a full size
Chevrolet. Looking for a 55 Convert LR Quarter window frame and a
3.08-3.55 posi unit for 55-64 Chev full size. Any help would be
appreciated.
Feel free to contact me with any airspring, suspension,
questions members might have. Here to help. Thanks Mr. Ford!! John
Leonard vventures@iquest.net
I think that the "Born in East L.A." video, Cheech and Chong's Springstein
parody, Had a 55 convertible they were cruising around in. (Sometime in
the mid-80's)
-----------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com

Hey guys - let's slow up in the attacks on engineers as a group! (Reference
all
the posts relative to rear shock mount kits).

Certainly engineers - as a group - are no different than accountants,
lawyers,
dentists, or whatever. You will undoubtedly meet some that you consider to
be
more competent, talented, or thoughtful than others. But, one must also
think a
bit about what an engineer is normally requested to do. Those who worked on
the
design of the original '55-'57 shock mounts over 45 years ago are being
criticized because the sheet metal around the mounts sometimes tears. Hmmm!

Please keep in mind that they (whether they were engineers, designers, or
layout
men) were requested to design an attachment that would do the job it was
intended for and to do it at a cost that would allow the manufacturer (GM)
to
make a profit. There were no such things as air shocks at the time - so
loads
would have been of considerably lower than with such units installed. The
hottest powerplant available had less than 300 horsepower. And, they were
being
requested to design something that would live for say ten years - maximum.
When
you look at things in this light, I'm unwilling to say that they did all
that
badly.

One more thing: I owned a '57 Ford convertible back in '63 when I was in
college. The right rear shock mount (which was a factory bracket welded to
a
tubular frame crossmember) had broken loose - so I had only one effective
shock.
I found that this failure was so common that the local auto parts store
sold a
fix which consisted of two U-bolts that looked like a huge muffler clamp.
They
went around the crossmember and provided a new upper attachment. It cost
about
$1.59 if I recall correctly.
-----------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "talley", INTERNET:talley5@jps.net

Hi Bob.

I'm looking for a little free advice. I have always liked the chrome
headliner bows in a 55 2 dr hardtop. So I picked up a set and had them
rechromed to install in 57 2 dr hardtop. I don't know the exact placement
of the bows in a 55, but it appears that one should go in my 57 right where
the dome light is. Hence preventing me from installing them. Am I right?
Anybody out there got any ideas on how I can make 'em fit?? Also can you
give me the numbers on the ends from front to back. Thanks. Bob Talley
email talley5@jps.net.
-------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com

>>Editor's note. Jay, do you suppose one of the reasons the 50s bath tub
Nashs were popular with teenagers was that the seats folded down to make a
bed?
BOB >>

Bob, those 50's Nash's didn't need to have the SEATs fold down. They had
enough FLOOR space in the back to put up a poker table !!!!!!!!! Richard
------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com

To David Scott Coker, David, We did a little rear end rebuilding when I
had my auto mechanics class, & I would say get someone to help you who
really
knows their rear end. You better know how to test the pattern & make sure
it
is correct before re-installing, or you will be asking for problems. Rear
end
tolerances are VERY critical!!!!!!! Just MY opinion! get it done RIGHT
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Richard
------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com

Hey Gary & Warren, I would like to put MY 2 cents in about gas tanks! I'm
the one that had the very serious problem with my fuel system on my way to
a
CCC convention. (Continously running out of gas when I had plenty gas in
the
tank) About 5 or 6 years ago I bought some gas tank flush OR cleaner
(whatever CCI sold) & have never used it, as I THINK part(or Possibly ALL)

of my problem was I was running a power pak with DUAL exhaust with a car
that
had the fuel line on the INSIDE of the frame. That line has been changed &
have not had SERIOUS fuel problems since. BUT........I have also not had
the
problem(except for a few short instances) since I changed the sending unit
gas filter, (which was in Detroit & drove back to Idaho trouble free!!!!! )

which was also VERY SHORTLY before changing my fuel line. My question
is
NOW........ Should I use that gas tank cleaner, or WHAT ?????? If so, do I

need to pull my gas tank to do it properly????? I welcome & appreciate any

IDEAS, SUGGTESTIONS, etc. Thanks to all readers!!!!!!! Richard
--------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "B & R", INTERNET:ROYBOBROY@wesnet.com

Hi Bob,

To Louis, Lou1@wesnet

Hey Lou,

It's OBVIOUS YOU have a LOT more expendable Cash then most of us "Jerry
Rigging, Back Yard Mechanics?"

Mind sending some MY way?

Since you believe it takes an Engineer to come with a "Safe" design for a
Rear Shock Mount, is there a "Slight" chance you ARE one? You don't go out
an buy cars ALREADY restored do you?

The pieces I used to make to my the Rear Mounts under MY '57s, came from
the
Tool And Die Shop I worked at FOR YEARS.

If/When, I start seeing stress cracks in the Frame Rails of my Classics,
I'll send pics so all can see you were right.

Don't forget, US "Jerry Rigging, Back Yarders" were what got the interest
in
old cars started.

RJ
----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:vernon@apex2000.net
From: Mark C Bach, INTERNET:m_bach@juno.com

For the instruction less sway bar owner:

I have a set of instructions for the one's sold by Danchuck as well as
the CCI tech book issue for them. The BIGGEST problem is the u bolts
need to be bent to fit the bracket! If you drill holes in based on the
u-bolt the bracket won't fit. When I mentioned it to Danchuk they seemed
unconcerned about the discrepancy so go figure.

Please forward me your address and I'll mail you a copy of both.

Mark

m-Bach@juno.com
---------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net

Bob and All List Members:
A couple of comments on two subjects that keep coming up on the list.
First, the brake drums springs. They were not only used on 55-57 Chevy,
but on 58-64 drums. I have NOS 58-64 Chevy and 63-64 Corvette front
brake drums and they too use the brake spring. Also 55-57 front and
rear original brake drums used the springs. Mario was a Chevy
mechanic in the 60's and he also said the springs were supposed to
somewhat stop the vibration at the drum when GM came out with bonded
shoes.

In regards to the shock mount discussion; an easy fix is to purchase one
for your one or two piece frame. They are $36, and $39 respectively,
and we have them in stock. I think that at that price you couldn't make
one cheaper if you consider your time and materials needed. Just think
with all that time you saved you could enjoy reading this list!!!
Donna

Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
---------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Sanford "Sandy" Pierce, INTERNET:mr55chev@webtv.net

Louie is right about back yard engineering. I hate to admit it, but I
know very little about metal strength, tempering, annealing, or
whatever. At first, I got indignant about his statements, but before I
had a chance to writer back and really make him mad, I read about the
superbly engineered 57 with the 56 front end, cadillac tail, AMC engine
and future cardboard hoodscoop.
Louie was right.

On the 8th day HE created the 55 Chevrolet
(and GMC Suburban Pickups)

http://community.webtv.net/mr55chev/555657CHEV
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY