TriChrome
03-07-2018, 12:35 AM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:38 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST FOR
JUNE 21, 2001
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.
BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE READ.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Jack E. Mooney", INTERNET:mcspeedo@nfdc.net
-Wanted_
Help
I need a 1956 Chevy Truck 6 Cylinder Temperature Gage...used is okay....but
NOS would be nice. Please E-Mail me Thanks!
McSpeedo@NFDC.Net
-------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: Oliver Stone, INTERNET:moboy@calnet.net
Bob
Great list. Like most old car people, I have other old non Chevy cars. I
belong to lists for those cars also. However your list is the best BY FAR.
Besides being a lot of fun and containing a lot of information, your list
makes me think about things I have not thought of for 40 years. Case in
point was your question about a filament. I was also a TV tech in the
early 60s and as you said a burnt out filament was the first thing to
suspect on a TV that did not work. I long ago gave up fixing TVs and I had
not thought of filaments in 40 years. In the age of transistors and
computers my first thought was that you were sure out of date if you
thought modern TV sets still had filaments. Then it slowly dawned on me
that most modern TVs still have a tube in them (the picture tube) and any
tube needs a filament to operate. You are very sly Bob. The filaments
sole job is get hot. Before someone jumps up and says "my TV does not have
any tubes at all" I will acknowledge that is possible on a very few high
end TV sets.
Oliver Stone
(no not that Oliver Stone)
------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovely@Apollo, INTERNET:Lovely@Apollo
<< Bob, I bet we are in a small group that remember what comes after " 1 2
3
Clock 4 Clock Rock"...... >>
NOT REALLY! HOW ABOUT: 5 6 7 O CLOCK, 8 CLOCK ROCK!!!!!! RICHARD
(P.M. IF YOU WANT THE ORIGINAL 78 RECORD OF THIS (VERY RARE ST
PRESSING-WITH GOLD PRINT !!!!!!!!!!!! ), I HAVE ONE FOR SALE IN VERY NICE
COND. FOR 35.00 + 4.00 POST. & INS. EMAIL: lovemy56@aol.com
Editor's note. I saw a record like you have on E-bay a few months ago that
sold for over $50 so
your price is a bargain.
B0B
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<< Richard, where is your 265?
Dennis McGillis
Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
Orange County Region
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
949-533-7211 cellular >>
IN MY BACK YARD! COEURD'ALENE, IDAHO!!!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Mike & Brenda Hess", INTERNET:lazyhranch@iwon.com
Hi Bob, First..Thanks for the list !! Now, I believe that gas you're
talking
about was Amoco. they used to call it "white gas". My dad used to use it
religiously and always had the cleanest engine inside. he also used it in
place of the Coleman fuel for our stoves and lanterns !! It NEVER seemed
to adversely affect the cars !!! Mike Hess lazyhranch@iwon.com
-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:REBORN55@aol.com, INTERNET:REBORN55@aol.com
Mike with the overheating problem. I run a modified 283 much the same as
yours. E-mail me and we'll see if we can figure you problem out. Mine runs
around 180 at highway speeds. REBORN55@AOL.COM
-------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: John H, INTERNET:JohnH55@webtv.net
Wyatt: Police have ways of getting those numbers to show up. It's dye
of some kind or an acid process that aids in this matter. Also if there
is a question, they simply cut your floor above the frame vin and look.
All this at no cost to you. "Except" for you repairing their handy
work. Remember your car could be a stolen vehicle and they proceed
accordingly.
That's why it pays to have everything in order, paper work and vin"
wise.
Peace.
John H.
-----------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: John H, INTERNET:JohnH55@webtv.net
To Mike: re: hot engine. Try Stewart water pumps. Stage I flows 41% more
at low rpm's. Each pump is built to higher specs. Try the web site -
lots of info there. Or search for Stewart water pumps. If I remember
correctly www.waterpumps.com may work. NASCAR teams use their higher end
pumps.
Peace.
John H.
----------------------------
To: "Bob Ford", BOB_FORD
From: "Charlie", INTERNET:chas108@3rdm.net
Hey Bob,
The gasoline you're thinking of was most likely Amoco (sold as American in
the 60's and '70's,
also known as Standard in the midwest, company was Standard Oil of Indiana,
now having
merged with BP, is known as BP Amoco). I believe it was their
super-premium, and was
advertised as "The Only One-certified lead-free". My grandpa called it
"white gas". It became a
moot point after 1974 when everyone had to sell at least one grade of
unleaded to accommodate the
then-new '75 catalytic converter models. I'm guessing Amoco was still the
only one to make an
unleaded super-premium for quite some time after the change-over, after
all, most of those late
'70's cars were running, say, 7.5:1 compression ratios, maybe 8:1 if you
got lucky? Boy how far
we've come since those days... now we have Z-28s that'll do a 13 second
quarter-mile and get 29
MPG on the highway. Put one of those LS-1 engines, or even an LT-1 or 350
TPI in a Classic
Chevy...and you've got a fast yet reliable and economical combo. Best of
both worlds!
---------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], Bob_FORD
From: INTERNET:mthomas@comappspec.com, INTERNET:mthomas@comappspec.com
Hello Bob,
I have been reading your list for the past 18 months and all of the recent
conversations regarding VIN numbers.
I am in the process of purchasing a 1956 Chevy Suburban. What I would like
is to contact other members on this list that have a 5-6-7 Suburban or
Panel Truck. I have looked in Hemmings and requested a catalog from
Brothers who specifically advertise parts for Suburbans. I specifically
will need to replace the lower panel from the drivers door to the rear
taillight and I need to locate an upper tailgate hinge. Can any list
member get me started on tracking down the replacement panels?
As a general practice, I always check the VIN# with the title before
placing a deposit on any car. If a certificate of inspection is provided I
also verify that. It is very easy to transpose 2 numbers and then your
state inspection certificate is worthless and more paperwork is required.
On this particular vehicle the Department of Motor Vehicles in Virginia
incorrectly typed the 56 as 59 in the VIN#. I immediately pointed this
out to the owner who never verified the title when he had it changed from
Kansas to Virginia over a year ago. I have been waiting patiently, for
over 2 weeks, and let the current owner deal with the DMV bureaucracy.
This is a reminder for all buyers to verify the VIN# and save yourself a
long process of obtaining a clear title. It will be worth the wait. By
the way I live in Maryland and will again have to transfer title from out
of state to Maryland in the upcoming weeks.
Marvin Thomas
MTHOMAS@COMAPPSPEC.COM
----------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Rich Hoff", INTERNET:rhoff@tsi-telsys.com
Bob,
Amoco used to sell their high test as "white gas" which was unleaded.
People
used to run it in their lawn mowers.
Rich
-------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Jeff Wilson", INTERNET:jwilson@unctv.org
Yep, modern TVs still have filaments: because for all it's transistors and
integrated circuits, most TV's still use a picture TUBE.
Your TV screen (and most computer monitors) are just big honkin vacuum
tubes.
Tubes only work when they're warm (that's why your computer monitor needs a
few seconds to "warm up" when you first turn the machine on).
The filament serves this exact purpose, it's literally just a heating
element inside
the tube. And before anyone says it- "so why does my "instant on" TV screen
light up
the second I touch the On button?" Because these type TV's have their
picture screen tube filaments running
constantly, even when you're NOT watching TV. Therefore the picture tube
stays "warm"
and can come to life at moment's notice. Geeze, an appliance that sucks
electricity even while you're NOT using it-
what will they think of next?
CJ Wilson
Editor's note. I think California outlawed instant on TV some years ago.
BOB
---------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
It's been a long time since my high school physics classes and study of
basic
electronics, but as I recall the purpose of the filament is to heat the
plate
and cathode in order start the process of emitting electrons. As to whether
there are still any filaments in modern TV sets, I'd say they would still
be
present in any sets that use a cathode ray tube. Now, any sets with a flat
panel
display would be another matter, no?
Editor's note. My experience with flat panel monitors (no filaments) has
not been the best. They are expensive and give a bright picture if you
look straight at them. However move to one side of them and they get dim
in a hurry. Anyone had a different experience?
BOB
--------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Hans Kat, INTERNET:hanskat@yahoo.com
hey Bob,
I've got a question for all the panel members. I had
to replace a lamp at the backside of my speedo meter.
When I took the unit from its place I discovered that
there was something else wrong. I had to disconnect
the whole unit, including speedo cable. When the
problem was solved I attached all of the cables,
connecting to the lamps and the speedo cable. Much to
my suprise the speedo didn't work properly anymore... I
took every thing of again and attached it again to be
sure it was ok.. but no luck... for a while it ran
fine but now it doesn't do anything anymore. Any
suggestions??
Thanx!!
Hans
55 210 4 door sedan
Editor's note. Hans, try this. Take the cable loose from the speedo and
use masking tape and tape it to the bottom of your panel so you can see the
end. The take a test drive. Check to see if the cable turns and turns
faster as you drive faster.
BOB
------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:cdmhenry@yahoo.com, INTERNET:cdmhenry@yahoo.com
Bob,
To Richard Gimser; the Chevrolet dealer advertising postcard for the
'57 Belair 4-door sedan shows a surf green - highland green car. Hard to
beat factory photos for originality. The Classic Chevys of Southern
California web site has many of the postcards posted. Check out this
link.
http://home.earthlink.net/~lpettyjohn/POSTCARDS/57postcards.htm The
dealer showroom album has renderings of the interior. Not sure which
color are shown. What are you hoping to see in the interior photos?
To Richard Ochoa; I know where there is a '55 Olds 2-door hardtop
for sale. If you know the VIN or any other particulars of your car I can
check it out & let you know if it was yours. It's sorta close to home
(Nevada) & I plan to check it out around the 4th of July. Can at least
take some photos.
Bob; D.N.C is Double Nickel Chevrolet & Richard; g.a. (s/b GA. -
Georgia).
And finally... "what does a filament do?" This is kind of a chicken
& egg question. The filament (when designed appropriately) will become
white hot and electrons will be emitted from it and into the vacuum
surrounding the filament. Also inside the tube (in the vacuum) and near
the filament is a plate (or electrode or anode depending on who is
naming the components). The plate (if initially more positively charged
than the filament) will attract the electrons to it. Once the electrons
begin to travel to the plate the temperature difference will sustain
continued flow of electrons from the hot filament to the relatively cold
plate and not the other way. Once the filament is hot, the electrons
will always flow from the filament to the plate regardless of the
direction of the current through the filament. So, AC signals are then
converted into DC signals. Diode vacuum tubes are still used today to
convert AC into DC in electronic power supplies. By adding an additional
wire (called a grid) between the filament and the plate and then apply
the signal from your radio antenna to the grid wire, the signal in the
grid wire will change (modulate) the DC current flowing between the
filament and the plate. The electrons reaching the plate after passing
by the grid wire will mimic the signal in the grid wire. Because you can
put as many electrons through the filament as you want (pretty much) and
you have no control over how many electrons go through the grid wire
from the antenna (pretty much) you can use this effect to get an
amplified version of the antenna signal. Clear as mud, I'm sure. But
remember Bob... You asked. So here is a question back atcha. If your '57
radio already has DC battery power, why would you need a vacuum tube?
CDM
ps. I know there are radio guys on the list who can "clean up" or maybe
improve the way I said this. Hoping to hear from them.
Editor's note. As I remember from almost 50 years ago, it is much more
expensive and complicated
to increase voltage from a DC power source than an AC power source. If
this is wrong I hope someone will correct me. With AC all that is needed
to increase (or decrease) is a transformer which is just 2 coils of wire.
As I understand it, a radio must have many different voltages to work. If
the mesure of resistance is the Ohm, what is measured by a Mho (ohm
backward).
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Wodlands@aol.com, INTERNET:Wodlands@aol.com
Hi Bob,
Regarding the Vin discussion: 1) Many years ago I turned down the
opportunity to buy a '55 B/A sedan when I saw the "B" on the title and vin.
The car was an original and I looked hard but could not find anything that
suggested that this car didn't come from the factory with the B/A trim and
interior. A dealer B/A perhaps?
2) I have had to have the State Police change two titles that had one wrong
#
or Letter on the title. Always check before you buy or sell.
3) I received a call from a guy who was looking for a Nomad. Later the same
guy called to say he found the car he wanted at a good (but not cheap)
price.
However the car had an "A" as the first vin # and he wondered if this was
possible. I said "no." We then went into a discussion as to where all the
correct #'s were, etc. After getting off the phone, I realized that there
were TWO ways he could use the info I gave him. I never heard from him
again.
Thanks for the List.
L. Woodland , Lovettsville, VA.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
In answer to Mike, who asked about lead additives, valve wear, and
overheating problems:
I also have a stock 283 in my '57. I originally had it rebuilt in 1991,
when I did the car. Unfortunately, so I thought, I neglected to have
hardened valve seats put in it while the heads were off. I did the 104
octane lead additive thing for awhile. I also sent off to a refinery in
Georgia for a couple gallons of real tetraethyl lead (they're gone now, by
the way). It was probably a good idea if I had a modified engine, but I
didn't. A more recent mechanic of mine, who also raced stock cars, told me
that my engine would likely last me as long as I had the car WITHOUT doing
anything to the gas. He said that valve wear only theoretically occurred
under "sustained" high engine speeds. We're talking S U S T A I N E D
high speeds here, like frequent long highway trips . I didn't drive my car
that much, so he said that it wouldn't be a problem.
About three years later I had a main bearing go out, so the engine had to
come out of the car and be torn down. This time I remembered the hardened
valve seats, so I had them put in. The same mechanic did the work. He was
right about the valve wear. He told me that there was no visible
deterioration in my valves or seats. Just the same, though, I had the work
done.
As for your overheating problem, I'll assume that your new radiator is at
least as large as the one that was there before. Now go find a 160 degree
thermostat and put it back in the engine. They don't like it without a
thermostat! 160 is the temperature of the original. Newer cars have much
higher temp thermostats (for emissions, I think). The 160's are not so
easy
to find anymore, but worth the effort. Also, use a 7 lb. radiator cap.
That's the original, too. Should be a little cooler now. Those cars
rarely
got warmer than about 1/3 up the gauge in normal driving.
Good luck with it!
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
'57 2dr H.T.
----------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Hi Bob,
In your trivia question you asked, "In most TV sets sold today, can you
still find a filament. If the answer is yes, what does a filament do?"
The filament is in the kinescope, the only tube left in modern TV sets.
The
kinescope is more commonly known as the "picture tube". The filament heats
up the cathode (a component housed in the neck of the tube), which causes
it
to emit the electrons that will, after acceleration and deflection, "paint"
the picture you're watching!
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
'57 2dr. H.T.
----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Rob & Cathy Crean", INTERNET:creanie@bellatlantic.net
the Amoco gas was always advertised as lead free even way back then
i have a 57 chevy with original 283
i have a 63 corvair
i have a 50 chevy ice cream truck model 3100
i have used the lead additive in all and i have used straight gas in all
i have never noticed a difference in any car
rob crean. sr.
-----------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Bill Kautz", INTERNET:kautz@home.com
Hello Again,
I seem to be on this site more than anywhere else!
Regarding Mike's question about a lead additive for his rebuilt 283.
Suppose you had bought the car new in '57 and never used any gasoline but
Amoco Premium in it. (This should answer Bob's question too!) Amoco Premium
has never had lead in it. I bought a 1960 Corvair new off the showroom
floor. I never used anything but Amoco Premium in the car. I drove it,
raced it, (Yes, raced!), and had a lot of fun with it. I traded it in with
almost 50,000 hard miles on it after only one year, for a '61 Corvair. The
salesman asked me if I'd ever had a valve job done on the car and I told
him no. He was surprised at that. The car ran great and the same held true
with my '61, '63, '64, and '65 Corvairs. None of them ever had anything but
unleaded Amoco Premium in the tank. They all ran as good when I sold them
as they did when I bought them. I know many of you are probably laughing at
my Corvairs but, despite the government and Ralph Nader, they were great
cars. They were known then as "The poor man's Porsche" with good reason.
Ever make a 90 degree turn at 35 mph in a Tri-5? I've done it in a Corvair!
I wouldn't try it in my '55 210 Delray, though! I'd be looking at the world
upside down! Stirling Moss, one of the world's greatest racing drivers said
that, with the possible exception of the Shelby Cobra, (Booo-Ford!), the
Corvair was the best handling car built in the US! Thanks again, Bob!
(There are other cars besides Tri-5 Chevys and I'll take the flak for that
remark!) Wild Bill
------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Tjjpgarrett@aol.com, INTERNET:Tjjpgarrett@aol.com
In response to:
hi bob, my name is roger boire, i just got a 57-210 and need everything.
my e-mail is hurricane146@juno.com i need sheet metal, is double nickel
chevy in g.a. the cheapest? also do you have address for d.n.c. ? thanks
Editor's note. What is D.N.C. ?
BOB >>
WHAT is g.a. ??????? Richard
D.N.C. is Double Nickel Chevy and g.a. is Georgia.
Tom in Alabama
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:38 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST FOR
JUNE 21, 2001
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.
BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE READ.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Jack E. Mooney", INTERNET:mcspeedo@nfdc.net
-Wanted_
Help
I need a 1956 Chevy Truck 6 Cylinder Temperature Gage...used is okay....but
NOS would be nice. Please E-Mail me Thanks!
McSpeedo@NFDC.Net
-------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: Oliver Stone, INTERNET:moboy@calnet.net
Bob
Great list. Like most old car people, I have other old non Chevy cars. I
belong to lists for those cars also. However your list is the best BY FAR.
Besides being a lot of fun and containing a lot of information, your list
makes me think about things I have not thought of for 40 years. Case in
point was your question about a filament. I was also a TV tech in the
early 60s and as you said a burnt out filament was the first thing to
suspect on a TV that did not work. I long ago gave up fixing TVs and I had
not thought of filaments in 40 years. In the age of transistors and
computers my first thought was that you were sure out of date if you
thought modern TV sets still had filaments. Then it slowly dawned on me
that most modern TVs still have a tube in them (the picture tube) and any
tube needs a filament to operate. You are very sly Bob. The filaments
sole job is get hot. Before someone jumps up and says "my TV does not have
any tubes at all" I will acknowledge that is possible on a very few high
end TV sets.
Oliver Stone
(no not that Oliver Stone)
------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovely@Apollo, INTERNET:Lovely@Apollo
<< Bob, I bet we are in a small group that remember what comes after " 1 2
3
Clock 4 Clock Rock"...... >>
NOT REALLY! HOW ABOUT: 5 6 7 O CLOCK, 8 CLOCK ROCK!!!!!! RICHARD
(P.M. IF YOU WANT THE ORIGINAL 78 RECORD OF THIS (VERY RARE ST
PRESSING-WITH GOLD PRINT !!!!!!!!!!!! ), I HAVE ONE FOR SALE IN VERY NICE
COND. FOR 35.00 + 4.00 POST. & INS. EMAIL: lovemy56@aol.com
Editor's note. I saw a record like you have on E-bay a few months ago that
sold for over $50 so
your price is a bargain.
B0B
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com
<< Richard, where is your 265?
Dennis McGillis
Vintage Chevrolet Club of America
Orange County Region
949-551-4821 phone
949-551-1162 fax
949-533-7211 cellular >>
IN MY BACK YARD! COEURD'ALENE, IDAHO!!!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Mike & Brenda Hess", INTERNET:lazyhranch@iwon.com
Hi Bob, First..Thanks for the list !! Now, I believe that gas you're
talking
about was Amoco. they used to call it "white gas". My dad used to use it
religiously and always had the cleanest engine inside. he also used it in
place of the Coleman fuel for our stoves and lanterns !! It NEVER seemed
to adversely affect the cars !!! Mike Hess lazyhranch@iwon.com
-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:REBORN55@aol.com, INTERNET:REBORN55@aol.com
Mike with the overheating problem. I run a modified 283 much the same as
yours. E-mail me and we'll see if we can figure you problem out. Mine runs
around 180 at highway speeds. REBORN55@AOL.COM
-------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: John H, INTERNET:JohnH55@webtv.net
Wyatt: Police have ways of getting those numbers to show up. It's dye
of some kind or an acid process that aids in this matter. Also if there
is a question, they simply cut your floor above the frame vin and look.
All this at no cost to you. "Except" for you repairing their handy
work. Remember your car could be a stolen vehicle and they proceed
accordingly.
That's why it pays to have everything in order, paper work and vin"
wise.
Peace.
John H.
-----------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: John H, INTERNET:JohnH55@webtv.net
To Mike: re: hot engine. Try Stewart water pumps. Stage I flows 41% more
at low rpm's. Each pump is built to higher specs. Try the web site -
lots of info there. Or search for Stewart water pumps. If I remember
correctly www.waterpumps.com may work. NASCAR teams use their higher end
pumps.
Peace.
John H.
----------------------------
To: "Bob Ford", BOB_FORD
From: "Charlie", INTERNET:chas108@3rdm.net
Hey Bob,
The gasoline you're thinking of was most likely Amoco (sold as American in
the 60's and '70's,
also known as Standard in the midwest, company was Standard Oil of Indiana,
now having
merged with BP, is known as BP Amoco). I believe it was their
super-premium, and was
advertised as "The Only One-certified lead-free". My grandpa called it
"white gas". It became a
moot point after 1974 when everyone had to sell at least one grade of
unleaded to accommodate the
then-new '75 catalytic converter models. I'm guessing Amoco was still the
only one to make an
unleaded super-premium for quite some time after the change-over, after
all, most of those late
'70's cars were running, say, 7.5:1 compression ratios, maybe 8:1 if you
got lucky? Boy how far
we've come since those days... now we have Z-28s that'll do a 13 second
quarter-mile and get 29
MPG on the highway. Put one of those LS-1 engines, or even an LT-1 or 350
TPI in a Classic
Chevy...and you've got a fast yet reliable and economical combo. Best of
both worlds!
---------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], Bob_FORD
From: INTERNET:mthomas@comappspec.com, INTERNET:mthomas@comappspec.com
Hello Bob,
I have been reading your list for the past 18 months and all of the recent
conversations regarding VIN numbers.
I am in the process of purchasing a 1956 Chevy Suburban. What I would like
is to contact other members on this list that have a 5-6-7 Suburban or
Panel Truck. I have looked in Hemmings and requested a catalog from
Brothers who specifically advertise parts for Suburbans. I specifically
will need to replace the lower panel from the drivers door to the rear
taillight and I need to locate an upper tailgate hinge. Can any list
member get me started on tracking down the replacement panels?
As a general practice, I always check the VIN# with the title before
placing a deposit on any car. If a certificate of inspection is provided I
also verify that. It is very easy to transpose 2 numbers and then your
state inspection certificate is worthless and more paperwork is required.
On this particular vehicle the Department of Motor Vehicles in Virginia
incorrectly typed the 56 as 59 in the VIN#. I immediately pointed this
out to the owner who never verified the title when he had it changed from
Kansas to Virginia over a year ago. I have been waiting patiently, for
over 2 weeks, and let the current owner deal with the DMV bureaucracy.
This is a reminder for all buyers to verify the VIN# and save yourself a
long process of obtaining a clear title. It will be worth the wait. By
the way I live in Maryland and will again have to transfer title from out
of state to Maryland in the upcoming weeks.
Marvin Thomas
MTHOMAS@COMAPPSPEC.COM
----------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Rich Hoff", INTERNET:rhoff@tsi-telsys.com
Bob,
Amoco used to sell their high test as "white gas" which was unleaded.
People
used to run it in their lawn mowers.
Rich
-------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Jeff Wilson", INTERNET:jwilson@unctv.org
Yep, modern TVs still have filaments: because for all it's transistors and
integrated circuits, most TV's still use a picture TUBE.
Your TV screen (and most computer monitors) are just big honkin vacuum
tubes.
Tubes only work when they're warm (that's why your computer monitor needs a
few seconds to "warm up" when you first turn the machine on).
The filament serves this exact purpose, it's literally just a heating
element inside
the tube. And before anyone says it- "so why does my "instant on" TV screen
light up
the second I touch the On button?" Because these type TV's have their
picture screen tube filaments running
constantly, even when you're NOT watching TV. Therefore the picture tube
stays "warm"
and can come to life at moment's notice. Geeze, an appliance that sucks
electricity even while you're NOT using it-
what will they think of next?
CJ Wilson
Editor's note. I think California outlawed instant on TV some years ago.
BOB
---------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com, INTERNET:roy.r.nagel@gm.com
It's been a long time since my high school physics classes and study of
basic
electronics, but as I recall the purpose of the filament is to heat the
plate
and cathode in order start the process of emitting electrons. As to whether
there are still any filaments in modern TV sets, I'd say they would still
be
present in any sets that use a cathode ray tube. Now, any sets with a flat
panel
display would be another matter, no?
Editor's note. My experience with flat panel monitors (no filaments) has
not been the best. They are expensive and give a bright picture if you
look straight at them. However move to one side of them and they get dim
in a hurry. Anyone had a different experience?
BOB
--------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Hans Kat, INTERNET:hanskat@yahoo.com
hey Bob,
I've got a question for all the panel members. I had
to replace a lamp at the backside of my speedo meter.
When I took the unit from its place I discovered that
there was something else wrong. I had to disconnect
the whole unit, including speedo cable. When the
problem was solved I attached all of the cables,
connecting to the lamps and the speedo cable. Much to
my suprise the speedo didn't work properly anymore... I
took every thing of again and attached it again to be
sure it was ok.. but no luck... for a while it ran
fine but now it doesn't do anything anymore. Any
suggestions??
Thanx!!
Hans
55 210 4 door sedan
Editor's note. Hans, try this. Take the cable loose from the speedo and
use masking tape and tape it to the bottom of your panel so you can see the
end. The take a test drive. Check to see if the cable turns and turns
faster as you drive faster.
BOB
------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:cdmhenry@yahoo.com, INTERNET:cdmhenry@yahoo.com
Bob,
To Richard Gimser; the Chevrolet dealer advertising postcard for the
'57 Belair 4-door sedan shows a surf green - highland green car. Hard to
beat factory photos for originality. The Classic Chevys of Southern
California web site has many of the postcards posted. Check out this
link.
http://home.earthlink.net/~lpettyjohn/POSTCARDS/57postcards.htm The
dealer showroom album has renderings of the interior. Not sure which
color are shown. What are you hoping to see in the interior photos?
To Richard Ochoa; I know where there is a '55 Olds 2-door hardtop
for sale. If you know the VIN or any other particulars of your car I can
check it out & let you know if it was yours. It's sorta close to home
(Nevada) & I plan to check it out around the 4th of July. Can at least
take some photos.
Bob; D.N.C is Double Nickel Chevrolet & Richard; g.a. (s/b GA. -
Georgia).
And finally... "what does a filament do?" This is kind of a chicken
& egg question. The filament (when designed appropriately) will become
white hot and electrons will be emitted from it and into the vacuum
surrounding the filament. Also inside the tube (in the vacuum) and near
the filament is a plate (or electrode or anode depending on who is
naming the components). The plate (if initially more positively charged
than the filament) will attract the electrons to it. Once the electrons
begin to travel to the plate the temperature difference will sustain
continued flow of electrons from the hot filament to the relatively cold
plate and not the other way. Once the filament is hot, the electrons
will always flow from the filament to the plate regardless of the
direction of the current through the filament. So, AC signals are then
converted into DC signals. Diode vacuum tubes are still used today to
convert AC into DC in electronic power supplies. By adding an additional
wire (called a grid) between the filament and the plate and then apply
the signal from your radio antenna to the grid wire, the signal in the
grid wire will change (modulate) the DC current flowing between the
filament and the plate. The electrons reaching the plate after passing
by the grid wire will mimic the signal in the grid wire. Because you can
put as many electrons through the filament as you want (pretty much) and
you have no control over how many electrons go through the grid wire
from the antenna (pretty much) you can use this effect to get an
amplified version of the antenna signal. Clear as mud, I'm sure. But
remember Bob... You asked. So here is a question back atcha. If your '57
radio already has DC battery power, why would you need a vacuum tube?
CDM
ps. I know there are radio guys on the list who can "clean up" or maybe
improve the way I said this. Hoping to hear from them.
Editor's note. As I remember from almost 50 years ago, it is much more
expensive and complicated
to increase voltage from a DC power source than an AC power source. If
this is wrong I hope someone will correct me. With AC all that is needed
to increase (or decrease) is a transformer which is just 2 coils of wire.
As I understand it, a radio must have many different voltages to work. If
the mesure of resistance is the Ohm, what is measured by a Mho (ohm
backward).
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Wodlands@aol.com, INTERNET:Wodlands@aol.com
Hi Bob,
Regarding the Vin discussion: 1) Many years ago I turned down the
opportunity to buy a '55 B/A sedan when I saw the "B" on the title and vin.
The car was an original and I looked hard but could not find anything that
suggested that this car didn't come from the factory with the B/A trim and
interior. A dealer B/A perhaps?
2) I have had to have the State Police change two titles that had one wrong
#
or Letter on the title. Always check before you buy or sell.
3) I received a call from a guy who was looking for a Nomad. Later the same
guy called to say he found the car he wanted at a good (but not cheap)
price.
However the car had an "A" as the first vin # and he wondered if this was
possible. I said "no." We then went into a discussion as to where all the
correct #'s were, etc. After getting off the phone, I realized that there
were TWO ways he could use the info I gave him. I never heard from him
again.
Thanks for the List.
L. Woodland , Lovettsville, VA.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
In answer to Mike, who asked about lead additives, valve wear, and
overheating problems:
I also have a stock 283 in my '57. I originally had it rebuilt in 1991,
when I did the car. Unfortunately, so I thought, I neglected to have
hardened valve seats put in it while the heads were off. I did the 104
octane lead additive thing for awhile. I also sent off to a refinery in
Georgia for a couple gallons of real tetraethyl lead (they're gone now, by
the way). It was probably a good idea if I had a modified engine, but I
didn't. A more recent mechanic of mine, who also raced stock cars, told me
that my engine would likely last me as long as I had the car WITHOUT doing
anything to the gas. He said that valve wear only theoretically occurred
under "sustained" high engine speeds. We're talking S U S T A I N E D
high speeds here, like frequent long highway trips . I didn't drive my car
that much, so he said that it wouldn't be a problem.
About three years later I had a main bearing go out, so the engine had to
come out of the car and be torn down. This time I remembered the hardened
valve seats, so I had them put in. The same mechanic did the work. He was
right about the valve wear. He told me that there was no visible
deterioration in my valves or seats. Just the same, though, I had the work
done.
As for your overheating problem, I'll assume that your new radiator is at
least as large as the one that was there before. Now go find a 160 degree
thermostat and put it back in the engine. They don't like it without a
thermostat! 160 is the temperature of the original. Newer cars have much
higher temp thermostats (for emissions, I think). The 160's are not so
easy
to find anymore, but worth the effort. Also, use a 7 lb. radiator cap.
That's the original, too. Should be a little cooler now. Those cars
rarely
got warmer than about 1/3 up the gauge in normal driving.
Good luck with it!
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
'57 2dr H.T.
----------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Kent", INTERNET:dkent@socal.rr.com
Hi Bob,
In your trivia question you asked, "In most TV sets sold today, can you
still find a filament. If the answer is yes, what does a filament do?"
The filament is in the kinescope, the only tube left in modern TV sets.
The
kinescope is more commonly known as the "picture tube". The filament heats
up the cathode (a component housed in the neck of the tube), which causes
it
to emit the electrons that will, after acceleration and deflection, "paint"
the picture you're watching!
Don Kent
Northridge, CA
'57 2dr. H.T.
----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Rob & Cathy Crean", INTERNET:creanie@bellatlantic.net
the Amoco gas was always advertised as lead free even way back then
i have a 57 chevy with original 283
i have a 63 corvair
i have a 50 chevy ice cream truck model 3100
i have used the lead additive in all and i have used straight gas in all
i have never noticed a difference in any car
rob crean. sr.
-----------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Bill Kautz", INTERNET:kautz@home.com
Hello Again,
I seem to be on this site more than anywhere else!
Regarding Mike's question about a lead additive for his rebuilt 283.
Suppose you had bought the car new in '57 and never used any gasoline but
Amoco Premium in it. (This should answer Bob's question too!) Amoco Premium
has never had lead in it. I bought a 1960 Corvair new off the showroom
floor. I never used anything but Amoco Premium in the car. I drove it,
raced it, (Yes, raced!), and had a lot of fun with it. I traded it in with
almost 50,000 hard miles on it after only one year, for a '61 Corvair. The
salesman asked me if I'd ever had a valve job done on the car and I told
him no. He was surprised at that. The car ran great and the same held true
with my '61, '63, '64, and '65 Corvairs. None of them ever had anything but
unleaded Amoco Premium in the tank. They all ran as good when I sold them
as they did when I bought them. I know many of you are probably laughing at
my Corvairs but, despite the government and Ralph Nader, they were great
cars. They were known then as "The poor man's Porsche" with good reason.
Ever make a 90 degree turn at 35 mph in a Tri-5? I've done it in a Corvair!
I wouldn't try it in my '55 210 Delray, though! I'd be looking at the world
upside down! Stirling Moss, one of the world's greatest racing drivers said
that, with the possible exception of the Shelby Cobra, (Booo-Ford!), the
Corvair was the best handling car built in the US! Thanks again, Bob!
(There are other cars besides Tri-5 Chevys and I'll take the flak for that
remark!) Wild Bill
------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Tjjpgarrett@aol.com, INTERNET:Tjjpgarrett@aol.com
In response to:
hi bob, my name is roger boire, i just got a 57-210 and need everything.
my e-mail is hurricane146@juno.com i need sheet metal, is double nickel
chevy in g.a. the cheapest? also do you have address for d.n.c. ? thanks
Editor's note. What is D.N.C. ?
BOB >>
WHAT is g.a. ??????? Richard
D.N.C. is Double Nickel Chevy and g.a. is Georgia.
Tom in Alabama
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
http://members.home.net:80/rick.b/Bobford.htm
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY