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TriChrome
03-07-2018, 01:00 AM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: February14¤é2002¦~Thursday 7:14 PM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL

THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST FOR
FEB 14, 2002

THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER. ALL OPINIONS
ARE WELCOME.

TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM

THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.

THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE

1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.

TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.

YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.

IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.

THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.

BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAIL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE READ.

THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "mason", INTERNET:1957chevy@adelphia.net

I need a honest licensed appraiser to do a 57 chevy in Escondido, Ca. ASAP
Thanks, Mason
-----------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Neil Anderson", INTERNET:Neil.Anderson@udlp.com

Our Car Club hosts a car show each year in Minnesota and we are looking
for information on any insurance company that can provide us with
liability coverage for the event. Please email me with any data you
might have.
Thank you
Neil Anderson
email:neil.anderson@udlp.com
www.pairadicecruisers.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
From: Editor

The following is from someone without e-mail.

Looking for anybody that can fix a 1956 Chevy clock to a quartz movement
and anyone have a concourse quality clock for a 56 Chevy. Need 2 air
cleaners (chrome and all) for a 56 dual quad Corvette Engine.
Thank you very much

Peachy and Moe
714-688-3444 (work)
714-742-3777 cell phone
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:augustc@lithoprint.com, INTERNET:augustc@lithoprint.com

Thank you Bob, I'll pass on the word.
Please post the following:

****FOR SALE****
Factory 411 Rear End complete as removed from car.
Factory driveshaft
Factory Oil filter Canister and Generator
Parts came off an all original 57 210, Inline 6,3sp.OD Trans w/88k miles
that was in excellent condition.
I drove the car for about a year with these components on
(prior to conversion to modern drivetrain) and all worked fine. $100 for
everything
as is. Austin TX. able to arrange shipping, e-mail: augustc@lithoprint.com

or call Toll-Free 1-877-967-7468 x246 or direct at 512-381-5046
------------------------------------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Donna, INTERNET:Fiftiesforever@webtv.net

John,
We have an original 56 4dr sedan 6cyl auto. It is an very low mileage
original car. Body and frame are in very good condition. I see you are
looking for a 57, but if you would be interested in a 56 just give us a
call. We also sell all the restoration parts for 55-57 Chevies. We are
located in northern NJ. Thank You, Donna

Fifties Forever
206 Division Ave.
Garfield, NJ 07026
973-478-1306
------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Greg Heness, INTERNET:g.heness@uts.edu.au

To all the tri-fivers,

Thanks to those who helped me with my bonnet hinge problem, brake cleaner
did the trick.

Have a friend looking for rear bumper over-riders to suit 57 chev Bel Air.
Would you believe the originals were knocked off on the wharf when it was
delivered down here in Sydney.

Anyway any help would be appreciated

Greg In Sunny Sydney

Dr Greg Heness
University of Technology, Sydney

"A whole lot of things ain't never done,
But you ain't never having too much fun"
------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Betty Ellis", INTERNET:bellis@4state.com

This is for Internet:Don 98021 You can buy the heater cores for the 57 at
most of the dealers. Danchuk 3201 S. Standard Ave, Santa Ana, CA 92705
phone # 1-800-854-6911 or at H & H classic chevy parts 12325 Hwy 72W
Bentonville, AR 72712 Phone # 501-787-5575. We have bought a lot from both
places. We buy mainly from H&H as is close to home and this guy is a real
nice fellow. Hope you find it. Betty @ bellis@4state.com. Bob keep up
the good work. Enjoy your list and it has been very helpful to us.
------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: INTERNET:Sjrwonder@aol.com, INTERNET:Sjrwonder@aol.com

Bob /group

I have an original 55 265 motor. I know it can take an 1/8 inch overbore.
I used to know these numbers but I have long since forgotten.
Is it possible to grind a 350 crank journals down and install it in the
265?. What pistons and rods would I use. Would I have a 327? I know it
makes more sense to just throw in a 350 motor, but I like the idea of
staying with the original motor.

thx in advance...Steve Roth
-------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Dave Hecker", INTERNET:dhecker@presenter.com

This is a reminder to share your answers and contributions with the
list. If you are responding to someone's question from the list with
some constructive answer or suggestion, please send a copy to the list.
It is as simple as putting Bob's email address in the CC or To field.
If you asked a question, and received a good answer but don't see that
answer posted on the next list from Bob, let the rest of us know what
you have learned. I'm sure several people would like to learn the
suggestions, and answers in addition to the person who asked each
question. Thumbs up to Ron for sharing the answer to his parking brake
handle problem with the rest of us list members.

Thanks,

Dave Hecker
Activities Chairman and Webmaster San Jose Classic Chevys
http://clubs.hemmings.com/sjcc
dhecker@presenter.com
-----------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "56madmook", INTERNET:michaelbakotich@mediaone.net

selling radiator...out of my 56 nomad that had 400hp....very good used
radiator....50 bucks
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Rick Federighi", INTERNET:rfederig@belmont.k12.ca.us

Could someone tell me when the Pomona Shows take place? Also,are there
regularly scheduled swap meets where autos are sold? Am looking for a chevy
and I was told the Pomona meet is the best- Thanks- R.J.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
To: [unknown], INTERNET:don98021@wmconnect.icomcast.net
CC: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@comcast.net

Hi Don,
"East Coast Chevy, Ol' 55," sells heater cores for all Tri-5 Chevys.
$149, with old core trade-in, for standard heater, $119 for deluxe heater.
Phone #-215 348 5568. They have a large catalog of parts, most anything you
could need for your car.
There are also a lot of other places listed in Hemmings Motor News.
Literally dozens of suppliers of Tri-5 parts and literature. I have
purchased parts from East Coast several times and have been happy with
their prices, parts, and service. Wild Bill
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To: "'Bob Ford'", bob_ford
From: "Glassoff, Marc", INTERNET:GlassoffMA@navair.navy.mil

Hi Bob and Everyone--
Since the subject of oil changing has come up, I've also realized that I've
wondered about the warm vs. cold theories for years and never realized it.
My technique for oil changing for all my cars regardless of new or old has
always been to change the oil while warm after the car has come back from
wherever its been on its latest outing. I've only done this because that's
what all the manuals say. I don't jack them up or put them on ramps,
because
the oil drain has always been accessible (with maybe a little crawling.)
But
in 'reality', if you drain it cold in the same manner, won't the same
amount
of oil come out? Except maybe what's sitting on the very bottom of the pan?
And everyone knows you never really get 'all' the oil out. Has anyone
studied this or worked somewhere that REALLY KNOWS?
Marc Glassoff
Heartbeat Classic Chevys Car Club, Escondido, CA
------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Gary Hurley", INTERNET:Gary_Hurley@firstclass1.csubak.edu

RE: radiator cores
Any competent radiator shop can make a heater core. I just had mine done
over New Year's. If you still have the original, it can be re-cored. Also
Danchuck's carries some models for about $100.

Gary Hurley
Bakersfield, CA
--------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Gary Howard", INTERNET:garysgearbox@dragonbbs.com

I write this to all the narrow minded and uninformed folks who chose to
attack me on this site in the name Of BOB.
If Bob did not like the fact that I basically cautioned that I had belonged
to two other sites that had been taken over by computer talk, when
computers were not the story line.I believe he would have censored me. It
is easy to get side tracked. Now because of the fact that I cautioned about
this, I was personally attacked by several of you folks. May I suggest to
you that you save your pen and ink for Bobs line so as to make a
contribution. Or would you like to compare your input of valuable
information to Bob's site to the information I have contributed. I am an
old line purist die hard Chevy lover from having my first car in high
school a 1955 chev. Also, I am an active transmission builder of 3-4-5-6
speed transmissions and have shipped transmissions all over the USA and off
shore. For about 12 years I built cars for folks for the purpose of
entering car shows and winning. I keep up with what is going on in the
industry transmission wise as well as in other areas. I try to stay
informed. How about you guys? If you cannot say something nice about
someone who told the truth, then......say nothing
Gary Howard
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:lsfork@bloomnet.com, INTERNET:lsfork@bloomnet.com

Kim My advise is to worm it up with a torch,it don't take much heat
just worm it up . that will expand the drum and problem is over.It works
for ne / Ernie
-----------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "talley", INTERNET:talley5@jps.net


Bob,
Could you please post? Thank you!

FOR SALE:
55 left 210 fender, no rust, small dent 200
55 left inner fender w/ extension 50
55 hood, perfect center rib, good corners 300

Parts located in CA. Shipping extra. Contact Bob at email: talley5@jps.net
-------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Oliver Giorgi", INTERNET:o.giorgi@worldnet.att.net

Hi Bob,

There have been a few questions concerning "when to change my oil - hot or
cold" on the list lately.

Here is the official recommendation (I am employed by an auto mfg.)

The engine oil should be changed when it is at operating temperature (read
that hot).

The concern is that when the oil is hot, the debris and damaging chemicals
are "in suspension" when the oil is hot. They are easily removed with the
hot oil.

If the oil is changed cold, the harmful deposits will fall out of
suspension and will not come out with the old oil - so the new oil will be
contaminated much more quickly.

So, if you really want to protect your "pride and joy" - change the engine
oil while it is hot.

Keep up the good work - I really enjoy reading this list!

And if your out there Rick F. - the '55 is doing swell! She scored a 990 so
far...

Best regards,
Oliver J. Giorgi
aka bowtieollie
www.chevytalk.com
moderator
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "Keith Chaytor", INTERNET:seckey@iinet.net.au

Hi Bob,
Still loving your list. Could you please post this on your list. I am
having trouble contacting Emery Bishop for some reason.
I would like to send a very big thanks to Emery. Sometime ago like two
years past I had purchased a 57 891 rebuilt distributor. Only three months
ago I was having a few mechanical problems with my 57 and had replaced the
standard distributor with the twin point 891 that I had purchased from
Emery and the 57 now near-on wheel stands off the mark every time. I had
became quite use to pushing my foot a little harder to the floor when
taking off from a complete stop. Now each time I go to pull away it near on
pins me back. I will gladly send all my doctors bills on to Emery with a
kind note that I will soon be looking to purchase another 891. I still tell
all my other car Club members of the 55-57 Chevrolet Club of Perth, here in
Australia that "the old 283 still has a little grunt left in her yet",
little do they know my secret.
Emery, I hope you are able to read this and take this a note of many
THANKS!!!
Best Wishes to all,
Happy cruisin,
PETER HALL,
PERTH, AUSTRALIA.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com

To Kim, There is a special tool designed to pull brake drums. Check at
Napa.
I was told you should never HEAT your brake drums! I don't know if it would

be safe to use them again! Do your drum lug nut holes seem to be stuck to
the lug nuts? If so, spray the heck out of it with W-D 40 & pound on the
outer high spot of your drums with a 3 lb. hammer. Be sure not to pound
too
hard or you CAN crack your drum. I have done this many times in the past &
never broke a drum & always seemed to break them loose. Usually it takes a
LOT of pounding & work you way all around the drum while pounding, as
opposed
to pounding just in one spot. Eventually, it should come loose! Richard
----------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com, INTERNET:Lovemy56@aol.com

>
> Hi Bob. I have a question for you an the list members. Does anyone
know
>
> who sells new heater cores. I will need one for my 57, an a friend of
mine
>
> needs one for his 53. I checked with the local parts stores an came up
> empty. Any help is appreciated.
>
> Don Mengwasser
> don98021@wmconnect

Don, try Classic Chevy Club in Orlando, OR Late Great Chevy in
Orlando. They BOTH sell heater cores! Richard
________________________
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "George Masters", INTERNET:mastersg@minot.com

Hi Bob, George Mastes here again from, yes you were right, Minot, North
dakota!!

The stainless inserts that are always below the rear window on 55 and 56
Chevies have a black painted area that a lot of us usually leave 'blank'
or
paint with a brush, usually look bad or not original. I stripped mine and
had the stainless polished. Then I took the two sides to my local sign
shop
and they cut vinyl and inserted it in the areas. It looks great. As a
matter of fact, I had white vinyl placed in the insert of my 55 Nomad door
and fender mouldings, too. India Ivory vinyl (or close proximity) is
available and eliminates any 'rough' edges where paint would scratch off.

Tip from me--hope it helps out a few guys.

George Masters
Minot, ND
mastersg@minot.com
--------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com, INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com

> >>>>GTerry1969@aol.com
>
> bob my name is George terry i have a 1955 chevy. i really like your site
.
> can you tell how many 1955 chevys came with a/c<<<<

ANSWER: ALL OF THEM - IT WAS CALLED 4-50 cooling. (or rather 4 windows
down
at 50 miles an hour) Sorry, its an old joke!!! Kim
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
CC: [unknown], INTERNET:Don98021@wmconnect.com
From: INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com, INTERNET:Marty28447@aol.com

> To Don98021,

Heater cores can be fixed, Just go to your local
radiator/airconditioner
repair shop with your old core. They will unsolder your end plates, cut
down
another good core and solder your endplates to the new core. Mine cost
$50.00. but I did have to buy a new valve which you might have to do also.
Do not trust used cores from swap meets unless you can pressure check
them
first.

Kim
--------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Sig Watkins", INTERNET:sigathome@hotmail.com

Hello BOB,

I am doing some custom work to the rear lower tailgate on a 1956 Nomad and
was wondering if any one has a source for a different type of lower
tailgate
hinge that would not show or stick out, allowing the tailgate
hinge notch to be covered over and be smooth.

or has any one done this and would talk it over on email

Best regards,
Sig Waterman
Calif. USA
sigathome@hotmail.com
-----------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "sam woodard", INTERNET:swoodard@mmcable.com

Bob , great list,keep it up. I just got a 57 4 door hardtop parts car that
is now for sale. no hood,grille bumpers ,but decent body parts in general,
some glass on rolling chassis no mtr or trans. oklahoma city area only
asking 1000.00 or trade? email me for info to sam woodard.
swoodard@mmcable.com ,I will get right back to you, thanks bob,and a little
computer info is ok,most of us can use it.
-----------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:InBOIL@aol.com, INTERNET:InBOIL@aol.com

hi bob you are the king.
I have complete sheet metal for a 56. Hood, inner and outer fenders. I
replaced this w a fiberglass front end. im in WA, so shipping would be by
freight. If anyones interested, drop me a line. speed and perish.
thanks bob.
---------------------------------------------
From: Editor

I get a lot of spam and I assume most of you do also. You can help put a
stop to unsolicited commercial e-mail by forwarding it to UCE@FTC.GOV.

I strongly urge you to send any e-mail that asks you to send money to the
top name on a list and add your name to the bottom of the list to the above
e-mail address. Billions of dollars were lost last year in these chain
letter scams. The bad part of these scams is that the people that lost
money are the people least able to afford the loss of their money.

BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
I plan to live forever. So far so good.