TriChrome
03-07-2018, 01:20 AM
From: BOB FORD [BOB_FORD@compuserve.com]
Sent: August12¤é2002¦~Monday 10:45 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST FOR
AUG 12, 2002
IF THIS E-MAIL HAS AN ATTACHMENT, IMMEDIATELY DELETE THIS E-MAIL.
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER AND HAVE A
LITTLE FUN IN THE PROCESS. ALL OPINIONS ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.
IF YOU BUY SOMETHING FROM A LIST MEMBER, PLEASE BE AWARE THAT I HAVE
NO WAY OF KNOWING THE QUALITY OF THE PRODUCT OR THE HONESTY OF THE
SELLER. BUYER BEWARE.
BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAIL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE READ.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
From: Editor
If you are going to be in the Los Angeles Area on Sunday, August 18, 2002,
you should go to the
Los Angeles Classic Chevy show at Beach City Chevrolet. It is at 2800
Beach Blvd in Long
Beach California. It is one block north of the 405 freeway. There is no
limit to the number of
cars that can enter the show. You will see some great TriFives at the show
and meet some great
people.
BOB
-----------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Bobby D. Jefcoat", INTERNET:jefcoat@panola.com
Has anyone has any luck with the high-flow water pump and thermostat?
Their ad says; "FlowKooler water pumps are produced with 16 internal
blades- which is double the amount on a stock water pump. The pump more
than doubles the water flow at an idle, yet it drops back to the stock
water pump output at 3500 RPMS. The Chevy version of these pumps are
designed to be bidirectional to handle different drive belt configurations.
In addition to the higher output, the FlowKooler water pump is up to 32%
more efficient than other pumps, meaning less horsepower is required to
turn it. All of this adds up to engine operating temperatures dropping as
much as 30% when cruising at low speeds. They also have a hi-flow
thermostat to go with the pump. I have a 56 Chevy with stock 350 engine,
regular fan blades and a fan shroud, the radiator is not stock 56 but a
later model, I also have an electric 16" fan mounted on the outside pushing
air. My problem is when idling or running stop and start in town, it gets
over 212 with the a/c running. I don't run the electric fan on the highway
and it stays around 200 degrees with a/c on, on a hot Mississippi day. Have
a 160 degree thermostat. Thanks for any help, BJ
--------------------------
To: [unknown], Bob_Ford
From: INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com, INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
Bob,
I have some 56 Chevy parts for sale, could you please list this in the next
e-mail
56 Chevy hood and trunk emblems for 6 cyl. Good condition - $ 35 each
Door handles $ 5 each
Hood Bar $ 10
Set of 4 wheels with full wheel covers $ 100
If interested, send E-mail to Rebag9@aol.com
Thanks,
Eric
---------------
To: "BOB FORD-LIST", BOB_FORD
From: "Lenny Schaeffer", INTERNET:D56chevy@attbi.com
Hi Bob and others
I know this is going to sound crazy but a few months back there was a guy
selling (REALLY...) chromed 56 Chevy taillight lenses for show cars.
I never bought them and now am kicking myself for not doing so- it would be
a nice addition to my sedan show car.
ANyone know where I can buy them or other out of the ordinary chromed 56
chevy parts?
thanks
Lenny Schaeffer
President
Bearing Burners Car Club
Burlington MA
http://home.attbi.com/~d56chevy
BEARING BURNERS WEBSITE:
http://clubs.hemmings.com/bearingburners
-----------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Hronek, Ofcr William (OPD)", INTERNET:whronek@ci.omaha.ne.us
Dear Bob,
Thank you again for the list. I have a specific question for 1957 hub caps.
The front two hub caps rotate inside the wheel and bend over the
valve stem. The wheels have the correct hub cap nubs and are put into
position aligning with the valve stem and the four holding nubs. Is there
any
adjustment to the hub cap or do I raise the nub with a welder. I'm
concerned
that I'll destroy the valve stem or loose two pretty good looking caps down
the
highway. Any suggestions ?
Thank You.
---------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Gary Knight, INTERNET:gknight@ix.netcom.com
Need info on how to clean up the aluminum inserts
on a 57 chevy. Have two sets, both straight, no dents,
but just need restoring. gknight@ix.netcom.com
-------------------
To: "BOB FORD-LIST", BOB_FORD
From: "Lenny Schaeffer", INTERNET:D56chevy@attbi.com
Hi all:
I was wondering if there is anyone out there who is interested in TRADING a
T shirt from their 2001/2002 show for one of OUR Show T's? I have size
large and XL (NEW) and would love to trade with someone for a new one of
their show.
Let me know OK?I can email you a picture of the logo on the shirt - Its
pretty cool if I say so myself :)
AND if there is anyone out there who attended our 2002 CRUZ IN ,please let
me know if you enjoyed yourself!
thanks again and Bob- you ROCK MAN!
Lenny Schaeffer
President
Bearing Burners Car Club
Burlington MA
http://home.attbi.com/~d56chevy
BEARING BURNERS WEBSITE:
http://clubs.hemmings.com/bearingburners
----------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Mike McDonough", INTERNET:m477@midwest.net
Hello To Everyone
Once again I need to turn to everyone on the list for some help and advice.
I need to have my tail light housings rechromed and I was wondering if
anyone could recommend a good place to have it done. Also could anyone tell
me how reproduction tail light housings compare to those that have been
rechromed.
Thanks
Mike
M477@Midwest.net
-----------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MuzikBiz01@aol.com, INTERNET:MuzikBiz01@aol.com
Greetings, Bob and Tri-Five aficionados!!
Just went through an old Chevy List edition and saw a nice post from Mark
Glassoff and Ken (Reborn55). They caught my interviews on the July "E!"
Entertainment special, "The Beach Boys -- True Hollywood Story."
Ken asked about telling some tales of putting on shows/concerts in those
early 60s days, and, yes, I'd love to recount them sometime. Needless to
say,
it's certainly not the same as doing a concert today! But, then again, what
do you expect for $1.75 a ticket to see The Beach Boys, or The Four
Seasons,
or The Ventures, or The Righteous Brothers, or The Dave Clark Five, or ...
well, you get the picture!!
On another note: I'm coming out to Sacramento for my high school reunion--a
quickie trip--August 24/25. Any car shows going on in Northern Cal that
weekend? How about a nice (and friendly) 'classics' dealership? I say
'friendly,' because about three years ago I went to this one place in Sac
off
of Business 160, near Cal Expo, and they were so snobby, I wanted to tell
'em, "I wouldn't buy a car from you if you had my 'dream machine."
Oh, well, I got my 'dream machine' now!! Take care and have a great week!
Fred Vail
Nashville, TN
'55 Bel Air
PS I missed the CCI show last weekend in Mooresville, NC. Hope Herb Spies
took home the "gold." Anyone going to the "Bow Tie" event in Tulsa?
-------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:ghbhpv@earthlink.net, INTERNET:ghbhpv@earthlink.net
Want to purchase a 55 Nomad---have a few ?---we looked at one last
night-----Is the tailgate a problematic area with Nomads----we opened it
and once we closed it the owner was unable to get it opened again---he said
when you wash a nomad you have to be careful that you don't get water by
the
trunk area----
--- Ginny
--- ghbhpv@earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
------------------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "Jeff Wilson", INTERNET:jwilson@unctv.org
Hi all- I've been having a weird problem- I recently bought a 57 with
the column-mounted three speed shifter.
It just barely runs, so I've only been able to drive it around in the
yard and/or driveway so far, not out on the road....
I'm a bit confused about the shift pattern.
It seems to go:
Back (toward the driver) and up is reverse.
Back and down is first.
Forward (toward the dash)and up is 2nd(?)
Forward and down is 3rd(?)
Is this the standard pattern?
I had a running/ driving 57 w/ 3spd many years ago.
I seem to recall the shift pattern being:
Back and up was 1st, back and down was 2nd.
Forward and up was 3rd, forward and down was Reverse.
That pattern was a LOT easier to shift than the one that I seem
to have now- but perhaps the last 57 had a later-model trans?
I *believe* the last 57 had a 1960-vintage 235... did the shift
pattern of the 3-speeds change at any point?
Any thoughts?
CJ Wilson
--------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:My55Rocks@aol.com, INTERNET:My55Rocks@aol.com
yes i guess i was thinking you had a list of parts for 55 chevy bel air.i'm
redoing one and looking for some interior parts and also wondering if i
should stay with front motor mounts or go to side mounts.going to put a 305
in it for now tell i get a 350 redone.all help would be thankful for.thanks
for e mailing back.
-------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:OLDCARS55@aol.com, INTERNET:OLDCARS55@aol.com
Bob,
Still enjoy every single edition of your letter as much as the very first.
The rear quarter on the driver's side of my '55 four door has been
seriously
dented for several years. Initially, I hit a light pole on the apex of the
pointed curve of the bumper under the taillight. A more recent encounter
with an old lady on the Wal-Mart parking lot deepened the crevice (I was
getting ready to leave for a nine-day tour of Italy the next day -- I was
in
no mood to make a serious issue out of it). Now, tonight a friend of mine
backed his car into mine in the dark.
I pretty muched banged the dent he left out but I am still left with this
serious depression further back. In feeling up inside the fender to the
back
wall of the wheel well, it feels as if the metal in this quarter is pretty
solid -- no rust. There is, however, a very think layer of bondo on the
outside left by the shadetree who worked on it before. It has a large
crack
in the middle and tonight several moderate-sized chunks of the stuff fell
out
due to the impact. I also know that while I am doing all of this it would
not hurt to widen the cavity in which the taillight insert fits -- it has
been too narrow since I first got the car -- you can see the metal strap at
the top on the inside is bent and it is supposed to be flat.
The past few months I have given this some serious thought. A friend of
mine
says there is a way to pull this fender out with a fork truck and perhaps
nylon straps. Another friend of mine says there is an adaptor you can put
on
a propane torch to heat up a large area of sheet metal and sort of iron out
the dent from the underside. I have also thought about maybe shaping a
large piece of wood to use as an underside template and maybe try to use
large bolts, fender washers and a piece of wood on the outside to bend the
metal back out straight. I also know the bumper bracket/frame ends to
which
the bumper will be attached also need to be reshaped.
Instead of trying to pull this thing out by straping it up to a telephone
pole, I was wondering if any of the above methods would be OK for
straightening this fender. My theory is, if the metal is still good why
bother cutting and welding on an entire new quarter panal if it is not
necessary? After it is much straighter than it is now I would not be above
using dum dum in the body -- just not as much as there is now.
After I am through with all of this, someday I will probably have to weld
in
a new rear panal under the bumper because it is nothing but cancer rust.
But
for now I want to take care of this dent.
If anybody along the way has an inexpensive rear bumper for a '55 (I mean
nice, but under $300?) I would be interested. I would also appreciate any
advice anyone along the list might be able to share before I start trying
to
tear the rear quarter off of my car.
I am not asking for a Ph.D. in body repair -- I have seen all the manuals
and
taken two semesters of wire-gun welding. But something tells me there
ought
to be an inexpensive and inventive way to fix this thing without spending
$1500.00.
Does anybody have any ideas?
David Scott Coker
oldcars55@aol.com
------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com, INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com
i found a place that sells reproduction one-piece California front bumpers
for '57 belairs. however it is fiberglass and has to be painted. would be
great if someone could chrome-plate fiberglass.
louis
-----------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: David Meyer, INTERNET:d.meyer@ntlworld.com
Hi Bob, still enjoying your newsletter but not getting much feedback on my
wanted ad. I may have to live forever to find my wagon! Am still looking
for
1955 Chevrolet Handyman wagon. I want a good running, driving, solid
two door wagon with no rust/up-dated drivetrain. Nothing fancy. Close to
Dallas TX. ANY CLUES OR LEADS WELCOME - DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A KIND OF BASIC
WHITE HANDYMAN IN MESQUITE TX? If you have a car for sale please send
pictures/details. Thanks David Meyer.
---------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:BUDFOSDICK@aol.com, INTERNET:BUDFOSDICK@aol.com
Bob, I'm looking for a pair of original wheels for a '56 Chev. that has the
bumps to hold on original full wheel covers. Preferably in So. Cal so I
can
pick them up. Please e-mail me at budfosdick@aol.com.
Bud Fosdick
'56 Belair Conv.
Heartbeat Classic Chevy's
Escondido, CA
---------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JEMJWM1@aol.com, INTERNET:JEMJWM1@aol.com
HI BOB,
IN MY QUESTS THROUGH A LOCAL JUNK YARD OVER THE PAST 25 YEARS I
FOUND
THAT MANY PARTS FROM THE 55 - 57 PONTIAC WILL SWAP DIRECTLY TO THE CHEVYS,
(DOORS, WINDOWS, SEATS, SUSPENSION, ETC).
I RECENTLY FOUND A '55 PONTIAC WITH THE WINDSHIELD WASHER SYSTEM STILL
INTACT. IS THIS THE SAME SYSTEM THAT WAS USED ON THE CHEVYS? IS THE GLASS
JAR
THE SAME FOR BOTH MAKES? IF ANYONE KNOWS THE ANSWER TO THIS PLEASE RESPOND.
THE BOYS IN FLORIDA DIDN'T HAVE A CLUE. JOHN
E.
McCARTY
-------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Sam Huey", INTERNET:shuey@hot.rr.com
Bob, I need the stainless steel passenger window flipper seal . the piece
that flips open when the door is opened and snaps close when the door is
closed. mine stayed closed and the door vent window bent it when I closed
the passenger side door. anyone out there have a straight one for sale.
thanks Sam in temple ,TX 254-939-4483
-----------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
I've got a newly rebuilt/restored '56 Chevy Delco electric wiper motor for
sale. No exchange necessary. It's been blasted, cad plated, and
everything
is new (slide switch, power and ground wires, and the internals. It is
correct fo r'56s, but will work for '55s and '57s as well. $125 plus
shipping takes it.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
Fleetwood, PA
----------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:mfrench@exhibit-enterprises.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:NomadMan55@aol.com, INTERNET:NomadMan55@aol.com
Mike,
This is what I usually do with engines that have not been run in years;
1. Remove all spark plugs and pour about 1/2 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil
in each cylinder and let it sit for a couple of days.
2. Remove the ign wires or the distributor cap.
3. Spray some more MMO in each cylinder.
4. First tap the key a few times to make sure the engine is free.
5.Tap the key while having someone watch the timing mark to make sure
the
engine makes a full revolution.
6. If it seems to be turning freely, turn the key and let it crank over
a few times, with the wires or cap stil off.
7. If you have a compression tester, you might want to check the
compression. If not, go to step 8.
8. Disconnect the fuel line going into the fuel pump.
9. Connect a rubber fuel hose to the inlet of the pump and run it into
a
gas can with fresh gas.
10. Replace the spark plugs.
11. Connect the ign wires and/or cap and try to start it.
If all is well, the engine should start.
- Warren
---------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:mfrench@exhibit-enterprises.com
CC: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@comcast.net
Hi Bob,
This is for Mike and anyone that happens to have a car that's been
stored for any length of time. There are a lot of things to check before
starting the engine. Here's what I do. (Other list members will be able to
add to my list, I'm sure!)
1-Drain the old gas out of the tank and put in fresh gas. Check for leaks
in the tank, filler tube, and fuel lines.
2-Check the brakes! It's a bad feeling when you get your old classic
started and you can't stop it! A brake check includes the lines, master
cylinder, brake cylinders on all four wheels, and the shoes. Make sure
everything works. It's a good idea to drain the old fluid and install new
fluid because brake fluid absorbs moisture and can cause rust in the
system.
3-Replace all the belts and hoses, pressure check the cooling system and
install new anti freeze/coolant. The pressure test will tell you if you
have any leaks, especially around any rusty freeze plugs.
4-Remove the valve covers and spray oil on the rocker assemblies. Marvel
Mystery Oil is supposed to be very good for this. I've always used a light
engine oil with good results.
5-Pull the spark plugs and check the plug wires. Squirt a small amount of
engine oil in each cylinder. Turn the engine over by hand and then with the
starter for a couple of seconds.
6-Replace the plugs and plug wires.
7-Visually check ALL the wiring to make sure no critters have been chewing
on it. This is especially true under the dash.
8-Check the carburetor linkage to make sure it's not frozen.
9-Crank the engine and check for spark.
10-Remove the air cleaner and spray a LITTLE starting fluid in the carb. It
doesn't take much starting fluid to start an engine, just a quick spritz.
With a fire extinguisher handy, try to start the car. The seals in the carb
are probably dried out you may have some leaks. That's one of the reasons
for the fire extinguisher!
11-Before driving the car on the road grease all the fittings in the
suspension. Good luck! WIld Bill
-------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Jerry_Hege@us.schindler.com,
INTERNET:Jerry_Hege@us.schindler.com
FOR SALE
Front bench seat for '55 .Black vinyl, complete with no rips.Very good
shape$500. OBO
Buyer pays shipping.Located in Hampstead, Md.Willing to drive reasonable
distance.Call 410 239 0512
--------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Knopp, Tom", INTERNET:tknopp@cmpd.org
i believe its illegal to tattoo in SC.
Editor's note. I don't know about SC. It is illegal in Oklahoma.
BOB
---------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Timothy Ackley", INTERNET:tackley@cfl.rr.com
Hi Bob,
This message is in response to Jeff Wilson's question regarding the
identity
of an engine in a 55 truck he is considering buying. The cylinder head
casting number he supplied (3836848) indicates that the engine is a 235 CI
six cylinder motor available from 1955-57.
Tim Ackley
55 Bel Air custom
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
I plan to live forever, so far so good
Sent: August12¤é2002¦~Monday 10:45 AM
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST FOR
AUG 12, 2002
IF THIS E-MAIL HAS AN ATTACHMENT, IMMEDIATELY DELETE THIS E-MAIL.
THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER AND HAVE A
LITTLE FUN IN THE PROCESS. ALL OPINIONS ARE WELCOME.
TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.
THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE
1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.
TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.
YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.
IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.
THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.
IF YOU BUY SOMETHING FROM A LIST MEMBER, PLEASE BE AWARE THAT I HAVE
NO WAY OF KNOWING THE QUALITY OF THE PRODUCT OR THE HONESTY OF THE
SELLER. BUYER BEWARE.
BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAIL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE READ.
THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
From: Editor
If you are going to be in the Los Angeles Area on Sunday, August 18, 2002,
you should go to the
Los Angeles Classic Chevy show at Beach City Chevrolet. It is at 2800
Beach Blvd in Long
Beach California. It is one block north of the 405 freeway. There is no
limit to the number of
cars that can enter the show. You will see some great TriFives at the show
and meet some great
people.
BOB
-----------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Bobby D. Jefcoat", INTERNET:jefcoat@panola.com
Has anyone has any luck with the high-flow water pump and thermostat?
Their ad says; "FlowKooler water pumps are produced with 16 internal
blades- which is double the amount on a stock water pump. The pump more
than doubles the water flow at an idle, yet it drops back to the stock
water pump output at 3500 RPMS. The Chevy version of these pumps are
designed to be bidirectional to handle different drive belt configurations.
In addition to the higher output, the FlowKooler water pump is up to 32%
more efficient than other pumps, meaning less horsepower is required to
turn it. All of this adds up to engine operating temperatures dropping as
much as 30% when cruising at low speeds. They also have a hi-flow
thermostat to go with the pump. I have a 56 Chevy with stock 350 engine,
regular fan blades and a fan shroud, the radiator is not stock 56 but a
later model, I also have an electric 16" fan mounted on the outside pushing
air. My problem is when idling or running stop and start in town, it gets
over 212 with the a/c running. I don't run the electric fan on the highway
and it stays around 200 degrees with a/c on, on a hot Mississippi day. Have
a 160 degree thermostat. Thanks for any help, BJ
--------------------------
To: [unknown], Bob_Ford
From: INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com, INTERNET:Rebag9@aol.com
Bob,
I have some 56 Chevy parts for sale, could you please list this in the next
56 Chevy hood and trunk emblems for 6 cyl. Good condition - $ 35 each
Door handles $ 5 each
Hood Bar $ 10
Set of 4 wheels with full wheel covers $ 100
If interested, send E-mail to Rebag9@aol.com
Thanks,
Eric
---------------
To: "BOB FORD-LIST", BOB_FORD
From: "Lenny Schaeffer", INTERNET:D56chevy@attbi.com
Hi Bob and others
I know this is going to sound crazy but a few months back there was a guy
selling (REALLY...) chromed 56 Chevy taillight lenses for show cars.
I never bought them and now am kicking myself for not doing so- it would be
a nice addition to my sedan show car.
ANyone know where I can buy them or other out of the ordinary chromed 56
chevy parts?
thanks
Lenny Schaeffer
President
Bearing Burners Car Club
Burlington MA
http://home.attbi.com/~d56chevy
BEARING BURNERS WEBSITE:
http://clubs.hemmings.com/bearingburners
-----------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Hronek, Ofcr William (OPD)", INTERNET:whronek@ci.omaha.ne.us
Dear Bob,
Thank you again for the list. I have a specific question for 1957 hub caps.
The front two hub caps rotate inside the wheel and bend over the
valve stem. The wheels have the correct hub cap nubs and are put into
position aligning with the valve stem and the four holding nubs. Is there
any
adjustment to the hub cap or do I raise the nub with a welder. I'm
concerned
that I'll destroy the valve stem or loose two pretty good looking caps down
the
highway. Any suggestions ?
Thank You.
---------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Gary Knight, INTERNET:gknight@ix.netcom.com
Need info on how to clean up the aluminum inserts
on a 57 chevy. Have two sets, both straight, no dents,
but just need restoring. gknight@ix.netcom.com
-------------------
To: "BOB FORD-LIST", BOB_FORD
From: "Lenny Schaeffer", INTERNET:D56chevy@attbi.com
Hi all:
I was wondering if there is anyone out there who is interested in TRADING a
T shirt from their 2001/2002 show for one of OUR Show T's? I have size
large and XL (NEW) and would love to trade with someone for a new one of
their show.
Let me know OK?I can email you a picture of the logo on the shirt - Its
pretty cool if I say so myself :)
AND if there is anyone out there who attended our 2002 CRUZ IN ,please let
me know if you enjoyed yourself!
thanks again and Bob- you ROCK MAN!
Lenny Schaeffer
President
Bearing Burners Car Club
Burlington MA
http://home.attbi.com/~d56chevy
BEARING BURNERS WEBSITE:
http://clubs.hemmings.com/bearingburners
----------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Mike McDonough", INTERNET:m477@midwest.net
Hello To Everyone
Once again I need to turn to everyone on the list for some help and advice.
I need to have my tail light housings rechromed and I was wondering if
anyone could recommend a good place to have it done. Also could anyone tell
me how reproduction tail light housings compare to those that have been
rechromed.
Thanks
Mike
M477@Midwest.net
-----------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:MuzikBiz01@aol.com, INTERNET:MuzikBiz01@aol.com
Greetings, Bob and Tri-Five aficionados!!
Just went through an old Chevy List edition and saw a nice post from Mark
Glassoff and Ken (Reborn55). They caught my interviews on the July "E!"
Entertainment special, "The Beach Boys -- True Hollywood Story."
Ken asked about telling some tales of putting on shows/concerts in those
early 60s days, and, yes, I'd love to recount them sometime. Needless to
say,
it's certainly not the same as doing a concert today! But, then again, what
do you expect for $1.75 a ticket to see The Beach Boys, or The Four
Seasons,
or The Ventures, or The Righteous Brothers, or The Dave Clark Five, or ...
well, you get the picture!!
On another note: I'm coming out to Sacramento for my high school reunion--a
quickie trip--August 24/25. Any car shows going on in Northern Cal that
weekend? How about a nice (and friendly) 'classics' dealership? I say
'friendly,' because about three years ago I went to this one place in Sac
off
of Business 160, near Cal Expo, and they were so snobby, I wanted to tell
'em, "I wouldn't buy a car from you if you had my 'dream machine."
Oh, well, I got my 'dream machine' now!! Take care and have a great week!
Fred Vail
Nashville, TN
'55 Bel Air
PS I missed the CCI show last weekend in Mooresville, NC. Hope Herb Spies
took home the "gold." Anyone going to the "Bow Tie" event in Tulsa?
-------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:ghbhpv@earthlink.net, INTERNET:ghbhpv@earthlink.net
Want to purchase a 55 Nomad---have a few ?---we looked at one last
night-----Is the tailgate a problematic area with Nomads----we opened it
and once we closed it the owner was unable to get it opened again---he said
when you wash a nomad you have to be careful that you don't get water by
the
trunk area----
--- Ginny
--- ghbhpv@earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
------------------------------
To: [unknown], bob_ford
From: "Jeff Wilson", INTERNET:jwilson@unctv.org
Hi all- I've been having a weird problem- I recently bought a 57 with
the column-mounted three speed shifter.
It just barely runs, so I've only been able to drive it around in the
yard and/or driveway so far, not out on the road....
I'm a bit confused about the shift pattern.
It seems to go:
Back (toward the driver) and up is reverse.
Back and down is first.
Forward (toward the dash)and up is 2nd(?)
Forward and down is 3rd(?)
Is this the standard pattern?
I had a running/ driving 57 w/ 3spd many years ago.
I seem to recall the shift pattern being:
Back and up was 1st, back and down was 2nd.
Forward and up was 3rd, forward and down was Reverse.
That pattern was a LOT easier to shift than the one that I seem
to have now- but perhaps the last 57 had a later-model trans?
I *believe* the last 57 had a 1960-vintage 235... did the shift
pattern of the 3-speeds change at any point?
Any thoughts?
CJ Wilson
--------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:My55Rocks@aol.com, INTERNET:My55Rocks@aol.com
yes i guess i was thinking you had a list of parts for 55 chevy bel air.i'm
redoing one and looking for some interior parts and also wondering if i
should stay with front motor mounts or go to side mounts.going to put a 305
in it for now tell i get a 350 redone.all help would be thankful for.thanks
for e mailing back.
-------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:OLDCARS55@aol.com, INTERNET:OLDCARS55@aol.com
Bob,
Still enjoy every single edition of your letter as much as the very first.
The rear quarter on the driver's side of my '55 four door has been
seriously
dented for several years. Initially, I hit a light pole on the apex of the
pointed curve of the bumper under the taillight. A more recent encounter
with an old lady on the Wal-Mart parking lot deepened the crevice (I was
getting ready to leave for a nine-day tour of Italy the next day -- I was
in
no mood to make a serious issue out of it). Now, tonight a friend of mine
backed his car into mine in the dark.
I pretty muched banged the dent he left out but I am still left with this
serious depression further back. In feeling up inside the fender to the
back
wall of the wheel well, it feels as if the metal in this quarter is pretty
solid -- no rust. There is, however, a very think layer of bondo on the
outside left by the shadetree who worked on it before. It has a large
crack
in the middle and tonight several moderate-sized chunks of the stuff fell
out
due to the impact. I also know that while I am doing all of this it would
not hurt to widen the cavity in which the taillight insert fits -- it has
been too narrow since I first got the car -- you can see the metal strap at
the top on the inside is bent and it is supposed to be flat.
The past few months I have given this some serious thought. A friend of
mine
says there is a way to pull this fender out with a fork truck and perhaps
nylon straps. Another friend of mine says there is an adaptor you can put
on
a propane torch to heat up a large area of sheet metal and sort of iron out
the dent from the underside. I have also thought about maybe shaping a
large piece of wood to use as an underside template and maybe try to use
large bolts, fender washers and a piece of wood on the outside to bend the
metal back out straight. I also know the bumper bracket/frame ends to
which
the bumper will be attached also need to be reshaped.
Instead of trying to pull this thing out by straping it up to a telephone
pole, I was wondering if any of the above methods would be OK for
straightening this fender. My theory is, if the metal is still good why
bother cutting and welding on an entire new quarter panal if it is not
necessary? After it is much straighter than it is now I would not be above
using dum dum in the body -- just not as much as there is now.
After I am through with all of this, someday I will probably have to weld
in
a new rear panal under the bumper because it is nothing but cancer rust.
But
for now I want to take care of this dent.
If anybody along the way has an inexpensive rear bumper for a '55 (I mean
nice, but under $300?) I would be interested. I would also appreciate any
advice anyone along the list might be able to share before I start trying
to
tear the rear quarter off of my car.
I am not asking for a Ph.D. in body repair -- I have seen all the manuals
and
taken two semesters of wire-gun welding. But something tells me there
ought
to be an inexpensive and inventive way to fix this thing without spending
$1500.00.
Does anybody have any ideas?
David Scott Coker
oldcars55@aol.com
------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com, INTERNET:lou1@westnet.com
i found a place that sells reproduction one-piece California front bumpers
for '57 belairs. however it is fiberglass and has to be painted. would be
great if someone could chrome-plate fiberglass.
louis
-----------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: David Meyer, INTERNET:d.meyer@ntlworld.com
Hi Bob, still enjoying your newsletter but not getting much feedback on my
wanted ad. I may have to live forever to find my wagon! Am still looking
for
1955 Chevrolet Handyman wagon. I want a good running, driving, solid
two door wagon with no rust/up-dated drivetrain. Nothing fancy. Close to
Dallas TX. ANY CLUES OR LEADS WELCOME - DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A KIND OF BASIC
WHITE HANDYMAN IN MESQUITE TX? If you have a car for sale please send
pictures/details. Thanks David Meyer.
---------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:BUDFOSDICK@aol.com, INTERNET:BUDFOSDICK@aol.com
Bob, I'm looking for a pair of original wheels for a '56 Chev. that has the
bumps to hold on original full wheel covers. Preferably in So. Cal so I
can
pick them up. Please e-mail me at budfosdick@aol.com.
Bud Fosdick
'56 Belair Conv.
Heartbeat Classic Chevy's
Escondido, CA
---------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:JEMJWM1@aol.com, INTERNET:JEMJWM1@aol.com
HI BOB,
IN MY QUESTS THROUGH A LOCAL JUNK YARD OVER THE PAST 25 YEARS I
FOUND
THAT MANY PARTS FROM THE 55 - 57 PONTIAC WILL SWAP DIRECTLY TO THE CHEVYS,
(DOORS, WINDOWS, SEATS, SUSPENSION, ETC).
I RECENTLY FOUND A '55 PONTIAC WITH THE WINDSHIELD WASHER SYSTEM STILL
INTACT. IS THIS THE SAME SYSTEM THAT WAS USED ON THE CHEVYS? IS THE GLASS
JAR
THE SAME FOR BOTH MAKES? IF ANYONE KNOWS THE ANSWER TO THIS PLEASE RESPOND.
THE BOYS IN FLORIDA DIDN'T HAVE A CLUE. JOHN
E.
McCARTY
-------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Sam Huey", INTERNET:shuey@hot.rr.com
Bob, I need the stainless steel passenger window flipper seal . the piece
that flips open when the door is opened and snaps close when the door is
closed. mine stayed closed and the door vent window bent it when I closed
the passenger side door. anyone out there have a straight one for sale.
thanks Sam in temple ,TX 254-939-4483
-----------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com
I've got a newly rebuilt/restored '56 Chevy Delco electric wiper motor for
sale. No exchange necessary. It's been blasted, cad plated, and
everything
is new (slide switch, power and ground wires, and the internals. It is
correct fo r'56s, but will work for '55s and '57s as well. $125 plus
shipping takes it.
Wyatt Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
Fleetwood, PA
----------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:mfrench@exhibit-enterprises.com
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:NomadMan55@aol.com, INTERNET:NomadMan55@aol.com
Mike,
This is what I usually do with engines that have not been run in years;
1. Remove all spark plugs and pour about 1/2 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil
in each cylinder and let it sit for a couple of days.
2. Remove the ign wires or the distributor cap.
3. Spray some more MMO in each cylinder.
4. First tap the key a few times to make sure the engine is free.
5.Tap the key while having someone watch the timing mark to make sure
the
engine makes a full revolution.
6. If it seems to be turning freely, turn the key and let it crank over
a few times, with the wires or cap stil off.
7. If you have a compression tester, you might want to check the
compression. If not, go to step 8.
8. Disconnect the fuel line going into the fuel pump.
9. Connect a rubber fuel hose to the inlet of the pump and run it into
a
gas can with fresh gas.
10. Replace the spark plugs.
11. Connect the ign wires and/or cap and try to start it.
If all is well, the engine should start.
- Warren
---------------------
To: [unknown], INTERNET:mfrench@exhibit-enterprises.com
CC: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Bill Kautz, INTERNET:kautz@comcast.net
Hi Bob,
This is for Mike and anyone that happens to have a car that's been
stored for any length of time. There are a lot of things to check before
starting the engine. Here's what I do. (Other list members will be able to
add to my list, I'm sure!)
1-Drain the old gas out of the tank and put in fresh gas. Check for leaks
in the tank, filler tube, and fuel lines.
2-Check the brakes! It's a bad feeling when you get your old classic
started and you can't stop it! A brake check includes the lines, master
cylinder, brake cylinders on all four wheels, and the shoes. Make sure
everything works. It's a good idea to drain the old fluid and install new
fluid because brake fluid absorbs moisture and can cause rust in the
system.
3-Replace all the belts and hoses, pressure check the cooling system and
install new anti freeze/coolant. The pressure test will tell you if you
have any leaks, especially around any rusty freeze plugs.
4-Remove the valve covers and spray oil on the rocker assemblies. Marvel
Mystery Oil is supposed to be very good for this. I've always used a light
engine oil with good results.
5-Pull the spark plugs and check the plug wires. Squirt a small amount of
engine oil in each cylinder. Turn the engine over by hand and then with the
starter for a couple of seconds.
6-Replace the plugs and plug wires.
7-Visually check ALL the wiring to make sure no critters have been chewing
on it. This is especially true under the dash.
8-Check the carburetor linkage to make sure it's not frozen.
9-Crank the engine and check for spark.
10-Remove the air cleaner and spray a LITTLE starting fluid in the carb. It
doesn't take much starting fluid to start an engine, just a quick spritz.
With a fire extinguisher handy, try to start the car. The seals in the carb
are probably dried out you may have some leaks. That's one of the reasons
for the fire extinguisher!
11-Before driving the car on the road grease all the fittings in the
suspension. Good luck! WIld Bill
-------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Jerry_Hege@us.schindler.com,
INTERNET:Jerry_Hege@us.schindler.com
FOR SALE
Front bench seat for '55 .Black vinyl, complete with no rips.Very good
shape$500. OBO
Buyer pays shipping.Located in Hampstead, Md.Willing to drive reasonable
distance.Call 410 239 0512
--------------------
To: "'BOB FORD'", BOB_FORD
From: "Knopp, Tom", INTERNET:tknopp@cmpd.org
i believe its illegal to tattoo in SC.
Editor's note. I don't know about SC. It is illegal in Oklahoma.
BOB
---------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Timothy Ackley", INTERNET:tackley@cfl.rr.com
Hi Bob,
This message is in response to Jeff Wilson's question regarding the
identity
of an engine in a 55 truck he is considering buying. The cylinder head
casting number he supplied (3836848) indicates that the engine is a 235 CI
six cylinder motor available from 1955-57.
Tim Ackley
55 Bel Air custom
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/BOB_FORD/
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
I plan to live forever, so far so good