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Tabasco
05-29-2018, 03:54 PM
When I posted about several maintenance items I was doing on my '57 wagon, Chevynut said "At least your "might as wells" didn't result in a frame-off." Well...that is because I already have another one under way on my wife's '56.

I decided to start a build thread. I have been working on my wife's car for a while. I was working a job until I retired the end of last year. Now I have more time to work on it and hope to finish it soon. I took pictures and made notes on progress so far. I thought I would share what led to this and what I have done.

My wife bought a ’56 convertible from a friend of ours on 1981. He had the car for a few years. He bought it without engine or transmission. Since it was originally 6 cylinder and power glide that’s what he put in it. It was never restored, but it did get a new paint job, new custom interior and a new top in about 1978. Everything else was original 1956 parts. Every spring I have to work on it to make sure everything is in working order for the summer cruise season.

One thing that needed fixing was that the radio quit working. You can’t cruise in a convertible without oldies music. Radios last us about 10 or 15 years. In the past I would go to the big box store or an auto supply and buy a new one with a knob on each side and the dial in the middle. With a homemade bracket I designed I could make it work in the dash. Now you can’t locally find universal radios with the two knobs. There are radios available on line that will fit the dash without modification, but for the same price I can buy a radio that has all the modern features we like in our new cars.

I didn’t want to cut the dash so I decided to build me a console to mount a new radio. It is hard to mount stereo speakers in a convertible, so I could mount a couple of speakers in the console too. Plus it would be nice to have cup holders.

I started to fabricate a pattern for a console. I did some planning, made a cardboard pattern that I liked. Then I made both sides from plywood, connected the sides with 1x2s. But for some reason it wouldn’t sit level. Then I realized that the problem was that the carpet pad for the 40 year old carpet was deteriorating. So I took out the seats and pulled up the carpet. I thought maybe I should just buy new carpet and new padding. The carpet was getting pretty faded. But if I buy new carpet it would look out of place with our 40 year old interior. So I guess we should plan on getting new interior.

The top was looking old and tired. Some of the stitching was coming lose. Maybe I should just get a new top while it is in the upholstery shop. But the old lacquer paint is showing its age and will need redone someday. If I get a new top then it would be hard to protect it during paint and body work. Maybe I should just paint it now.

So that is how a new radio turned into a frame of restoration.

The Before Picture

8827

To be continued.

BamaNomad
05-29-2018, 04:02 PM
A pretty car as it was... :) (but I really like sierra gold / adobe beige cars)... :)

TrifiveRichard
05-29-2018, 04:33 PM
Isn’t it interesting how one thing leads to another? How far along are you in the restoration, Tabasco? Any current pictures?

carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)
05-29-2018, 04:40 PM
looks good even before the frame off.

hurddawg
05-29-2018, 08:37 PM
looks good even before the frame off.

Agreed! Look forward to hearing more on your project!

busterwivell
05-30-2018, 05:20 AM
I'll be watching this one closely!

Tabasco
05-30-2018, 04:08 PM
Repairs have been done and I am at the body work stage. When I get a little time I will show pictures of how I got this far.

Tabasco
06-05-2018, 06:03 AM
After disassembly and sanding off all the paint I found that the car was in fair shape. Some small rust was repaired in the lower quarters when it was painted in the 70s. A little more rust had formed in the same area in 40 years. The body was a little rough and several areas needed some work. There were a few scrapes and dings that had been covered up on the previous paint job. The hood was fair and the front fenders were excellent. Doors were good. Trunk lid was full of bondo. I traded it out for a good used one I had.

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chevynut
06-05-2018, 07:49 AM
Wow, that's a really solid and straight car. ;)

Tabasco
06-11-2018, 03:19 PM
After cleaning everything to bare metal I sprayed everything with SPI epoxy primer.

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The replacement trunk lid needed a little work but it was much better than the one that was on the car.

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New tail pans were not available in the 70s. The tail pan was made out of flat steel, pop rivets and fiberglass reinforced bondo. That was the worst part of the body. I installed a new tail pan, tail pan brace, rear section of trunk floor and new spare tire well.

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TrifiveRichard
06-11-2018, 03:42 PM
Looking great, Tabasco!

Tabasco
06-16-2018, 03:28 PM
New floor pans were not available in the 70s when the car was done the first time. The floors were sealed with roofing tar, flat galvanized steel formed to contour, a million pop rivets and fiber glass over that. When I removed all that I saw that he braces were in great shape. It just needed the four floor pans. That was a big mistake. I should have ordered floor halves. I had to clean all the tar and fiberglass. I also had to weld up the million pop rivet holes and weld the shifter hole patch. By the time I figured that out, I already had the floor pans ordered.

I braced the body and separated it from the frame. I then put it on my roll-over. The engine had a leaking oil pan for years. The bottom of the car was covered in an inch thick layer of oil, dirt and rocks. It looked like an asphalt road under there. After cleaning and blasting, it got sprayed with SPI epoxy primer. This is not show car quality just good clean driver quality.

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89008901

BamaNomad
06-16-2018, 07:49 PM
:) I'm glad to see someone else using the old NNC design rollover frame.... :)

Tabasco
06-17-2018, 04:39 AM
:) I'm glad to see someone else using the old NNC design rollover frame.... :)

It is not as versatile as a rotisserie but a whole easier to store. I just take it apart and lean it against the wall. I have had that since the 1980s. I didn't know who designed it, but I knew several guys who had one.

BamaNomad
06-17-2018, 01:10 PM
Well, it allows you to easily get to the top and bottom in one orientation, and the sides in the alternate orientation. Actually, I don't know of anything I could do more with a rotisserie. I built to the plans provided by Wayne Oakley(I think) in the NNC magazine. It puts a Nomad at the perfectly balanced point to where a 100 lb lady can rotate it by herself (My wife did it). I added casters to the bottom straights of mine to allow it to be rolled when in the upright orientation. I built mine in one weekend with a couple of pieces of angle iron I had to purchase, and some scrap thick wall tubing I had lying around at the time. I had my '57 Nomad on mine for over 20 yrs, rolling it around etc.. and even put it on a rollback once for transport while on the racks... Yes, mine are leaning against the wall under my leanto waiting for the next Nomad~

PS. How well was it balanced with the convertible on it? Or did you adjust the mounting points to adjust the C.G.?

Tabasco
06-18-2018, 01:49 PM
It wasn't as well balanced as the Nomads I have done. I guess it is just a different center of gravity that made it more difficult to roll over the convertible. Took a little more muscle to use it but it worked just fine.

BamaNomad
06-19-2018, 06:50 AM
Yes, the c.g. is a lot lower for a convertible than for a Nomad! :)

note: When I first began a Nomad restoration (late '80's), I borrowed a homemade rotisserie which had been built for a '55 convertible! I got it mounted up and a friend and I began to 'rotate' the body. When we got it about 40 deg, the weight became almost unbearable for us to hold... I was scared $hitless that we were gonna let the Nomad fall on it's roof! My friend said 'I can't hold it'! I replied... 'You'd better hold it!'!! Somehow we managed to get it back upright without it falling and I immediately removed those rotisserie mounts! The Nomad has several hundred pounds of additional weight much higher than a convertible does! That's when I made my 'Nomad club' rollover rack!

Tabasco
06-21-2018, 05:05 AM
I have done Nomads and hardtops on my roll over frame before without bracing. But this is the first convertible I have done. I wasn't sure how to brace it. I saw a post by NickP showing how he braced one. So I did it in a similar fashion to his. Thanks Nick, I just wanted to give you credit for a good idea.

Tabasco
06-25-2018, 02:14 PM
One thing that always bothered me was a situation with the frame. Sometime in the past someone had put in a 4 speed. They used a torch to cut out a large section of the x-member to make room for a shifter. That is why I pulled the body off the frame. While I was going that far I decided to go all the way and fix it.

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First I squared up the ragged cuts. I cleaned the frame and sand blasted it.

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I bought a 10 foot piece of 3/8th thick steel. I made a poster board template form the other side of the frame.

I then bent the steel to match the template, cut it to final size and welded it in place.

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Then I used my template to cut 1/8th steel and welded it into place.

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After cleaning, grinding and priming it looks as good as new.

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I know there more exciting frames to look at on this site. But I feel like someone did this poor old car wrong 50 years ago and it was my duty to return it to original condition.

chevynut
06-25-2018, 02:27 PM
Nice work Tabasco! Can't even tell it was cut.

Rick_L
06-25-2018, 07:22 PM
Wow, surprised that the original stuff was that thick. Nice work.

Tabasco
07-02-2018, 01:50 PM
After repairing the frame I sand blasted it and sprayed with SPI epoxy primer.
I cleaned and primered the suspension parts and installed new brake and fuel lines. I also added a rear shock bar and zero offset disc brakes on the front.

8945

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BamaNomad
07-02-2018, 07:29 PM
Outstanding Tobasco! It appears better than new.... :)

Tabasco
08-03-2018, 05:45 AM
I haven't had much to report on the car lately. I finished the last of the body work. That is not very exciting or photogenic. I bought some Slick Sand 4 weeks ago. Then we got a record hot July. I didn't want to spray that stuff when the temp in the shop started a out at 80 degrees and went up to over 100 before noon.

The temps got cooler this week and I sprayed the Slick Sand. I am now doing what I hope is the final few blocking sandings. I hope to get the car painted this fall and reassemble it over the winter. Then maybe we will be cruising next spring.

TrifiveRichard
08-06-2018, 12:31 PM
Great progress over the last few months, looking good, Tabasco!

Tabasco
08-08-2018, 04:47 AM
Thanks Richard. Actually it has been progress over the last few years. I didn't mean to mislead anybody and have people think I did all this as i was posting it. I took the car apart a couple of years ago for a quick paint job. But once I changed that to a frame-off it was slow going. I was still working a job, working on the car on the weekends and taking care of life's other responsibilities.

This year I retired and I have more time to work on the car. And I have more time to post on the internet. So I posted what I have done since I started.

TrifiveRichard
08-08-2018, 05:18 AM
Body-offs take a while, don’t they? Looks like you’re doing a a great job, and will have a very nice trifive when done. Being retired also, it still takes me about 4 years to build one from bottom up.

Tabasco
09-10-2018, 06:01 AM
In the last month I finished the body work and block sanding of the outside of the body. I cleaned and primered all the misc. stuff like radiator support, radiator side panels, splash pans, brackets and braces.

The firewall, door jams, bottom side of the hood, inside of the trunk and the dash have already been stripped and primered. They just need final sanding.

Before sanding the dash I drilled the holes for the OEM style AC dash vents. It is interesting drilling a large hole in curved sheet metal that has a double layer seam in the metal. It worked out well.

So I am making a little progress. I hope to paint it this fall.

scorpion1110
09-10-2018, 03:35 PM
Nice work Tabasco!

And I love the wires on your chassis.

S

Tabasco
10-25-2018, 09:33 AM
I usually like to paint between the temperature of 70 and 90. I was glad I would be ready to paint in October because the average temperature is 70 to 90 and average number of days rain is 4. This month we have had a record amount of rain fall in the DFW area. Most days it has not gotten above 70 degrees. So I haven't got to paint yet. I guess I should be shopping for a heater.

Tabasco
12-12-2018, 04:49 AM
It has been a busy fall so far with household things and family events. But I did get a furnace for my shop. It is now nice and warm in there and much better working conditions. I finally got to spray some paint. It's not much but it is a start.
9365
9366

I don't know why they are upside down. They are right in my computer.

chevynut
12-12-2018, 06:39 AM
Looks good. Are these iphone pics? I read that you have to take pics with the volume buttons facing DOWN and the camera shutter release to the right. You can rotate them all over the place after you take the pic but it doesn't help when you post them for some reason.

Tabasco
12-27-2018, 04:53 AM
I got most of the painting done over the last week. I tried Chevynut's idea about how to hold the phone so the pics aren't upside down. Let's see if it works.

I have several pictures but for some reason I can only upload this one. It is probably my bad internet service. I live in a rural area and there is only one internet provider that can serve my house and their service has gotten terrible.

9437

BamaNomad
12-27-2018, 05:48 AM
It looks like a super job from that one pix, Tabasco! and oh how I love sierra gold / adobe beige!! :)

567chevys
12-27-2018, 02:29 PM
Looks very Nice


Sid

carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)
12-27-2018, 03:48 PM
nice work, looking good.

markm
12-27-2018, 04:08 PM
My favorite 56 color combo. Question was the bottom of hood body color factory. The OEM unrestored HT I have is black b0ttom Sirrea Gold top.

Tabasco
12-28-2018, 01:39 PM
I believe the bottom of the hood was originally semi-gloss black. I am painting several things under the hood body color instead of black.

markm
12-28-2018, 01:51 PM
Thanks, I thought semi gloss was OEM, just been seeing enough on net the other way to make me wonder.

WagonCrazy
12-29-2018, 06:45 AM
Your wifes car looks great so far Tabasco! Stay with it and keep posting progress pics.
It motivates the rest of us who are not making progress with our own (at the moment).

Tabasco
02-16-2019, 07:04 AM
My internet service is working today so I thought I would let y'all know I'm still hard at work. The body is all painted and going back together. Today I do the last of my painting of the steering column, steering wheel and all the engine compartment parts..

Got my wiring harness this week and hope to start on it soon. I talked to Phoenix Transmissions this week and learned everything i need to know. The guy I talked to has a '56 with a small block and a Phoenix 700R4, so he should really be able to help me if I have any questions. It is almost time to order and engine and transmission.

So I don't have much to take pictures of, but there is ongoing progress. It will be on the road this year, hopefully in time for the AFTA Nationals.

WagonCrazy
02-18-2019, 12:19 PM
Go man, go! Stay with it...

Tabasco
03-06-2019, 06:14 AM
I'm working under the dash now. That is always fun I'm trying to figure the right order to put everything in so nothing interferes with anything else.

My wife was helping me re-install the original wiper drive and cables. She asked if there wasn't something better than that available. I told her about Raingear Wipers. She said "order it" so I did. Instructions were very good. It seems to be a good product.

I also ordered the new Vintage air kit. I just wanted to make sure all holes needed in the dash were open and see how much room it took up under the dash. Not the best instructions I have seen, but I'm sure I will figure it out. I won't start the actual install until all the wiring is done.

chevynut
03-06-2019, 07:40 AM
I also ordered the new Vintage air kit. I just wanted to make sure all holes needed in the dash were open and see how much room it took up under the dash. Not the best instructions I have seen, but I'm sure I will figure it out. I won't start the actual install until all the wiring is done.

Good luck with the modification of the original heat controls. I had to throw away their potentiometer mounting bracket and make a new one.

BamaNomad
03-06-2019, 08:26 AM
Tobasco! You're making great progress and looking good! :)

Ain't it great when the wife tells you to 'ORDER' those new parts you wanted? :)

Tabasco
03-07-2019, 06:35 AM
It is nice that my wife is okay with me ordering all the stuff for the car. I think she believes that this is my last major car build and she wants me to have what I need. She plans to retire soon and there will be a little less money to pay for all the parts orders then. And I'm not getting any younger. This build is taking a lot longer than I expected.

I installed the Raingear wipers. Then I was ready to start on the AAW Classic Update wiring. I realized that it would be a lot easier to install the fuse box with the wipers removed. It was pretty easy to remove the wipers and reinstall later.

The first instructions for the fuse box install was to remove the lower hood hinge bolt from the left hinge and replace with a new 2 1/2 inch bolt. The new fuse box connects to that bolt extending under the dash. But I don't have my hinges installed. And I thought, if I install the hinge now with the fuse box connected to the new bolt, how do I adjust the hinge when I install the hood. And how would I replace the hinge if it broke or wore out. So instead of the new bolt that came with the kit, I used a threaded rod. I left about 1 inch on the engine side of the firewall to bolt the hinge on with a nut and washer. I think that AAW should have thought of this themselves.

Tabasco
03-09-2019, 06:47 AM
Our new engine arrived yesterday. It is a Chevrolet crate engine. It has 350 cu. in., 357 horsepower, roller cam with vorteck heads. We got a complete package from the flex plate to the accessory drive. It has a Holley carburetor but don't tell Chevynut, he gets offended by carburetors. (Just kidding Laslo). It came with chrome air cleaner and chrome timing cover. I'll probably just add chrome valve covers to complete the package. We're not building a show car (been there, done that) we are building a cruiser. This should cruise along better than that old 235 and powerglide we have had all these years.

BamaNomad
03-09-2019, 12:58 PM
You bought your engine from Chevy, Tabasco? Do you mind providing the PN and whom you purchsaed it from? Sounds like a very nice package (for us Holley lovers).. :) .. and all the power this old guy wants/needs anymore... :)

chevynut
03-09-2019, 01:31 PM
You bought your engine from Chevy, Tabasco? Do you mind providing the PN and whom you purchsaed it from?


https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines

Looks like he got this one....

https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/sp350-357-turn-key

SP350-357 Tech Specs




Part Number: 19367084
Engine Type: Chevy Small-Block V-8
Displacement (cu. in.): 350
Bore x Stroke (in.): 4.000 x 3.480
Block (P/N 10105123): Cast iron with 4-bolt main caps
Crankshaft (P/N 10243070): Nodular Iron
Connecting Rods (P/N 10108688): Powdered metal
Pistons (P/N 88894280): Cast aluminum
Camshaft Type (P/N 12677151): Hydraulic roller
Camshaft Lift (in.): 0.473” intake / 0.473” exhaust
Camshaft Duration (@.050 in.): 215° intake / 223° exhaust
Cylinder Heads: Cast iron; as cast with 64-cc chambers
Valve Size (in): 1.940 intake / 1.500 exhaust
Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 nominal
Required Fuel: Premium pump
Ignition Timing: 32º Total @ 4,000 rpm
Maximum Recommended rpm: 5600






You could always ditch that nasty carb and put a FI Tech EFI or Holley Sniper on it. :D

Rick_L
03-09-2019, 01:39 PM
Better yet, an Edelbrock Pro Flow 4.

BamaNomad
03-09-2019, 01:59 PM
$5770 shipped to you from JEGS, (357 hp/400Tq) complete with frontrunner and all accessories! Sounds like a pretty good deal to me... If one wants more power, they also have 375 and 385 hp versions! Power probably is based on headers since exhaust manifolds is about the only parts the engine needs which isn't included. What is the best iron exhaust manifolds for Vortec heads??

PS. Curious why a 9.0 compression engine requires high octane fuel?

busterwivell
03-09-2019, 04:42 PM
Carbs aren't that bad..........My 56 has a stock rebuilt 350, 700R4, and 3:42 gears. 29 inch tall tires. I've gotten close to 20 miles to the gallon with this set up with the A/C on. I don't know that I'd improve it much with FI. I'm afraid to change anything.

scorpion1110
03-09-2019, 05:02 PM
https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines

Looks like he got this one....

https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/sp350-357-turn-key

SP350-357 Tech Specs






Part Number: 19367084
Engine Type: Chevy Small-Block V-8
Displacement (cu. in.): 350
Bore x Stroke (in.): 4.000 x 3.480
Block (P/N 10105123): Cast iron with 4-bolt main caps
Crankshaft (P/N 10243070): Nodular Iron
Connecting Rods (P/N 10108688): Powdered metal
Pistons (P/N 88894280): Cast aluminum
Camshaft Type (P/N 12677151): Hydraulic roller
Camshaft Lift (in.): 0.473” intake / 0.473” exhaust
Camshaft Duration (@.050 in.): 215° intake / 223° exhaust
Cylinder Heads: Cast iron; as cast with 64-cc chambers
Valve Size (in): 1.940 intake / 1.500 exhaust
Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 nominal
Required Fuel: Premium pump
Ignition Timing: 32º Total @ 4,000 rpm
Maximum Recommended rpm: 5600






You could always ditch that nasty carb and put a FI Tech EFI or Holley Sniper on it. :D

CN and you were being so good. Tsk tsk.

I have enrolled you in the Carb-of-the-Month club.

Scorp

Tabasco
03-10-2019, 07:49 AM
$5770 shipped to you from JEGS, (357 hp/400Tq) complete with frontrunner and all accessories! Sounds like a pretty good deal to me... If one wants more power, they also have 375 and 385 hp versions! Power probably is based on headers since exhaust manifolds is about the only parts the engine needs which isn't included. What is the best iron exhaust manifolds for Vortec heads??

PS. Curious why a 9.0 compression engine requires high octane fuel?

Yes that is the engine I got and I got it at Jegs.

I also wondered about the premium fuel requirement. Is it possible that is required for maximum horse power?

I'm thinking about the 2 1/2 inch rams horn exhaust manifolds. I think they will work okay.

markm
03-10-2019, 09:43 AM
Carbs aren't that bad..........My 56 has a stock rebuilt 350, 700R4, and 3:42 gears. 29 inch tall tires. I've gotten close to 20 miles to the gallon with this set up with the A/C on. I don't know that I'd improve it much with FI. I'm afraid to change anything.

I believe you, my 55 with a 396, 2x4s and a TKO-600 with a 3.54 gear get close to that on highway.

BamaNomad
03-10-2019, 08:24 PM
Yes that is the engine I got and I got it at Jegs.

I also wondered about the premium fuel requirement. Is it possible that is required for maximum horse power?

I'm thinking about the 2 1/2 inch rams horn exhaust manifolds. I think they will work okay.

If the exhaust port locations/bolt holes are consistent with old style Chevy heads, then the 2.5" ramshorns would be a good exhaust for this engine. Let us know what you do and how it works out.. :)

Tabasco
04-01-2019, 02:36 PM
Well I'm back. I finally got a new internet provider. My old service had between 3.3 and 1.6 mbps down load and 0.2 to 0.3 mbps upload. I had to call 3 companies before I found one that could get a signal. The new service is not blazing fast but I can post pictures and watch streaming video.

Also I had to have a minor surgery and the doctor didn't want me to do anything for two weeks.

But now I am back working on the car. I'm still working on the wiring. That job was a lot easier before I started wearing bi-focals.

Hopefully I can have more progress reports soon.

Rick_L
04-01-2019, 05:27 PM
That job was a lot easier before I started wearing bi-focals.

I can relate to that. I can't use my trifocal blend with a welding helmet. I do ok by just removing the glasses, but I've discussed with my eye doctor getting a pair of glasses with just the medium length prescription. I can't use drugstore reading glasses because of my astigmatism, but they may be an option for you depending on your situation.

Tabasco
04-15-2019, 01:58 PM
Vintage Air calls it "Sure Fit" but I haven't had anything fit yet. To change out the original controls there is a 24 page booklet of instructions. I still had to partially take it back apart to get it in the dash.

The evaporator didn't fit under the dash. I had to use a ratchet strap and pull the bottom of the dash out enough to get it in.

The cheap little plastic cover where the hoses come through the firewall didn't fit. Besides it was cheap looking and black and held on with plastic fasteners. I made me a metal piece that fits and is held on with stainless button head screws.

And the wiring under the dash is too long. I got a big roll of wire stuffed under the ash. It is already terminated and wrapped when you get it so you can't shorten it.

The instructions are not in order. I spend a lot of time flipping through the pages. There are no photographs only crude drawings. The drawings don't look exactly like the car.

I hear they make really good air conditioners that will keep you cool. I hope so after all this trouble.

BeachGirl55
04-15-2019, 03:41 PM
Vintage Air calls it "Sure Fit" but I haven't had anything fit yet. To change out the original controls there is a 24 page booklet of instructions. I still had to partially take it back apart to get it in the dash.

The evaporator didn't fit under the dash. I had to use a ratchet strap and pull the bottom of the dash out enough to get it in.

The cheap little plastic cover where the hoses come through the firewall didn't fit. Besides it was cheap looking and black and held on with plastic fasteners. I made me a metal piece that fits and is held on with stainless button head screws.

And the wiring under the dash is too long. I got a big roll of wire stuffed under the ash. It is already terminated and wrapped when you get it so you can't shorten it.

The instructions are not in order. I spend a lot of time flipping through the pages. There are no photographs only crude drawings. The drawings don't look exactly like the car.

I hear they make really good air conditioners that will keep you cool. I hope so after all this trouble.

I just finished doing a Vintage Air install on a 67 El Camino and had similar problems, nothing fit and lots of modifications by me to make it look nice .....

chevynut
04-15-2019, 06:18 PM
Vintage Air calls it "Sure Fit" but I haven't had anything fit yet. To change out the original controls there is a 24 page booklet of instructions. I still had to partially take it back apart to get it in the dash.

The controls are a big problem......I had to make new brackets to mount the potentiometers because they didn't fit using their bracket. The twisted and went into a bind when you actuated them.


The evaporator didn't fit under the dash. I had to use a ratchet strap and pull the bottom of the dash out enough to get it in.

I didn't have any problems like that and there was plenty of room. My dash is un-damaged and straight. Unless they changed the case (doubtful) I don't understand why it didn't fit. Maybe it's because you used the Vintage Air hardlines on it? I made up my own hoses.


And the wiring under the dash is too long. I got a big roll of wire stuffed under the ash. It is already terminated and wrapped when you get it so you can't shorten it.

I completely disassembled the harness, shortened wires, and integrated it into my dash harness. They have a red 12 gauge 12V wire and a white 12 gauge ground wire for the blower whicn IMO is WAAAAY too big. And they were 12 feet long. Not anymore. :D

I thought overall things went together pretty well, except for those controls. I haven't tried to run the duct hoses yet.

scorpion1110
04-16-2019, 03:52 PM
You have to wonder if the designers ever try to install their design.

Scorp

Gmvette
04-17-2019, 06:45 AM
“My wife’s 56” but in the initial photo she is NOT behind the wheel. All is well the Corvette is Susie’s car but I Scuffer Susie too.

Tabasco
04-19-2019, 04:17 AM
We both work on it and we both drive it, but it is definitely her car. She has had the car longer than she has had me.

Rick_L
04-19-2019, 05:30 AM
You have to wonder if the designers ever try to install their design.

The answer is probably they did, but the prototype design they installed didn't turn out the same went the parts went to production.

scorpion1110
04-20-2019, 05:27 AM
The answer is probably they did, but the prototype design they installed didn't turn out the same went the parts went to production.

So they overseas the part manufacture, dont QA the final product and dont hold the production company accountable. And sloppy initial build leads to repetitive sloppy build.

Yep, thats how businesses do it in 2019.

Scorp

Rick_L
04-20-2019, 06:17 AM
I could be wrong, but I think VA manufactures their own stuff for the most part, at least what goes inside the passenger compartment.

Tabasco
04-24-2019, 05:52 AM
Now I see why Chevrolet put the heater/air conditioner and wiper motor in the engine compartment in 1956. There is not much room under the dash with everything I added. I started out trying to be real neat. I ended up just trying to make everything fit. I had trouble finding room for the speedometer cable. That's a tight fit. I'm doing about 1/10th of the amount of wiring that Chevynut is doing, but thanks goodness I am nearly done with it.

My engine has been here for a few weeks. The transmission has been ordered and should be ready soon. Hopefully I'll have more to report soon.

Tabasco
04-28-2019, 05:22 AM
I went to Phoenix Transmissions on Friday and pick up our 700R4. They built it to match our engine specs. They furnished everything except the dip stick tube.

Yesterday I finally took the engine off the pallet and removed it from the plastic bag. Now I just need to put them together and install them in the car.

markm
04-28-2019, 08:30 AM
I found an 85 Caprice dipstick fit my 56 nicely. I could not handle billet crap, really wish the thing still had 3rd pedal like 55.

Tabasco
04-28-2019, 03:06 PM
Thanks for the info markm, but I already bought one of the flexible ones so I guess I will use it.

BamaNomad
04-28-2019, 10:04 PM
I found an 85 Caprice dipstick fit my 56 nicely. I could not handle billet crap, really wish the thing still had 3rd pedal like 55.

I totally agree with you re the LOKAR crap! They are worse than useless as a PLUG would be better....

chevynut
04-29-2019, 06:55 PM
I totally agree with you re the LOKAR crap! They are worse than useless as a PLUG would be better....

I love my Lokar BBC dipstick. Looks a lot better than the factory crap with a big tube coming out over the valve covers. And it seems nicely made with a good seal.

9675

BamaNomad
04-29-2019, 07:26 PM
I love my Lokar BBC dipstick. Looks a lot better than the factory crap with a big tube coming out over the valve covers. And it seems nicely made with a good seal.

9675

Well, I have to admit my comment was due to my use of a trans dipstick in my TCI350 (56 Nomad). I think for the engine oil, it would be lots better (assuming you can actually SEE the oil on the little dipper)... :)

Tabasco
04-30-2019, 05:02 AM
I actually bought the Summit brand transmission dipstick tube. It had better reviews than Lokar.

BamaNomad
04-30-2019, 05:24 AM
Is your battery located in the original position, Tobasco?? If so, have you tried to USE that Trans filler/dipstick??

Tabasco
05-01-2019, 04:34 AM
Battery is still in original position. I haven't tried the dipstick yet. I plan to get the engine and trans together and installed soon. I hope it works.

BamaNomad
05-01-2019, 06:14 AM
When I purchased my 56 Nomad, the prior owner had installed a Lokar trans dipstick. The *std* length only allows it to reach the lower portion of the firewall, directly under the battery! My first trip going up a TN mountain, the trans downshifted hard so I exited and looked for a place to check/correct the trans fluid... It was impossible!! I bought two different plastic long trans funnels, modified one of them attempting to get it 'downsized' to fit in the filler neck (tiny), and poured 2 qts and managed to get ONE qt into the trans ... I think! I modified it later and tried to get it out from under the battery, but it would only reach the hdr bolts (with lots of pulling).

1) Needless to say, the line is not long enough to get appropriate positioning of the filler neck; Lokar tells me they will make one longer for you if you special order it by length!
2) The fill tube is maybe 1/4" in diameter; the 'special funnel/adapter Lokar provide adapts that up to 1/2", but it still is difficult to get anything into that to allow pouring fluid in without spilling it all over, and the fill tube takes fluid very slowly.
3) Mounted to the header bolts, if you have to check the trans fluid when the engine has been running (and one is SUPPOSED to check it running), the handle is so hot you can't touch it...

With all these *advantages* of the Lokar trans tube, I'm wondering now why I don't like it.. :) J/K...

Rick_L
05-01-2019, 07:02 AM
And the same design is used for an engine dipstick - it works fine when not used as a filler tube too.

scorpion1110
05-01-2019, 02:29 PM
I love my Lokar BBC dipstick. Looks a lot better than the factory crap with a big tube coming out over the valve covers. And it seems nicely made with a good seal.

9675

Have to agree with CN. Hope I dont get struck by lightning ;)

Tabasco
05-05-2019, 03:25 PM
Yesterday I bolted the engine and transmission together. Today my wife and I installed them into the car. Everything went well. I still need to drill the holes for the transmission mount. Since it is a convertible that isn't going to be easy. Now would be a nice time to have a lift. My wife told me to get one. Currently I have parts of this car scattered through-out both of my buildings. I don't have room for a lift now. Maybe soon.

This what the transmission mount looks like.

9694

Since I used 3/4 inch forward engine mounts I will have to make a spacer and longer bolts for the transmission mount. But the HEI distributor fits okay.

Also because the engine is forward I may be able to use a traditional trans dipstick tube after all. I checked the inventory on my engine/transmission rack. I have a TH 350 and that dipstick looks about right. I just have to uncover it and see.

Tabasco
05-07-2019, 06:25 AM
The engine came with a chrome timing chain cover and a chrome timing tab installed. I'm not sure how to how to read the numbers on the balancer when they are covered up by the tab.

9709

55 Rescue Dog
05-07-2019, 10:44 AM
The engine came with a chrome timing chain cover and a chrome timing tab installed. I'm not sure how to how to read the numbers on the balancer when they are covered up by the tab.

9709
Just a white line at zero will work fine, and another one were you want to check like where you want the full mechanical advance point to be.

Rick_L
05-07-2019, 11:40 AM
When your balancer is fully marked, you don't need the tab marked too. What I do when I have this situation is take my tin snips and cut up the tab, making it more of a pointer.

Tabasco
05-07-2019, 03:37 PM
When your balancer is fully marked, you don't need the tab marked too. What I do when I have this situation is take my tin snips and cut up the tab, making it more of a pointer.

Thanks, I was thinking there was some way to use this. I believe I will try your idea.

55 RD that is good idea but you wouldn't be able to see the marks with the tab in the way. I think after I use Rick's idea I can then use yours also.

Thanks to you both for the help.

markm
05-07-2019, 05:35 PM
When your balancer is fully marked, you don't need the tab marked too. What I do when I have this situation is take my tin snips and cut up the tab, making it more of a pointer.

I been doing it that way since the 70s.

chevynut
05-07-2019, 07:06 PM
The real problem is that pointer sticks way too far out to be of any use. It should have been attached all the way back closer to the the cover instead of having the big gap between it and the cover.

Rick_L
05-07-2019, 07:27 PM
That's why you trim it off.

chevynut
05-07-2019, 09:23 PM
You shouldn't have to trim it off. Someone screwed up.

scorpion1110
05-08-2019, 04:07 AM
You shouldn't have to trim it off. Someone screwed up.

You are ABSOLUTELY right. Tabasco didnt pay to have to trim that pointer, and thats not even something you might modify for various fitment. Its just stupid lazy design combining parts randomly with no regard for the consumer.

Its 2019, the new mantra for business is " We understand what you want and will sell you exactly what we want; and you will accept it"

Scorp

Rick_L
05-08-2019, 07:07 AM
That timing tab is made EXACTLY as GM made them 50 years ago. It's not as big a problem as you guys are making it to be if you put a contrasting mark on the TDC stripe on the damper using a Sharpie or paint. On the other hand if the damper is fully degreed, it's just that much better if you make it into a pointer using tin snips.

scorpion1110
05-08-2019, 07:58 AM
That timing tab is made EXACTLY as GM made them 50 years ago. It's not as big a problem as you guys are making it to be if you put a contrasting mark on the TDC stripe on the damper using a Sharpie or paint. On the other hand if the damper is fully degreed, it's just that much better if you make it into a pointer using tin snips.

Actually Rick thats my point about stupid combinations. If you are a builder using a GM style cover and a 50 year old timing tab design, why not use a non-degreed balancer? Otherwise if you are using a degreed balancer, use a later style pointer so the degrees matter.

Personally if I am dropping my hard earned coin on a GM grate, I expect some thought applied to the combination of parts, and I sure as heck am not intetested in tin-snipping my new motor because some doofus didnt apply some thought to how the parts interchange.

IMHO

Scorp

Rick_L
05-08-2019, 09:32 AM
Thing is, making that tab into a pointer is a very cheap and thoughtful way to have a pointer. I've got 2 or 3 of them in my parts drawer that became "available" when I changed a couple of race engines to a Jesel belt, getting rid of the stamped sheet metal timing cover. I wouldn't hesitate to use one again.

scorpion1110
05-08-2019, 10:02 AM
Thing is, making that tab into a pointer is a very cheap and thoughtful way to have a pointer. I've got 2 or 3 of them in my parts drawer that became "available" when I changed a couple of race engines to a Jesel belt, getting rid of the stamped sheet metal timing cover. I wouldn't hesitate to use one again.

Rick, I understand and what you're saying makes sense. But when you are spending $2000-$3000k Should you have to?

55 Rescue Dog
05-08-2019, 10:29 AM
You will still need to make white marks to easily see it with the timing light anyway. Right on the edge will work fine, and maybe another one on the tab too.

Rick_L
05-08-2019, 03:38 PM
But when you are spending $2000-$3000k Should you have to?

What was I spending $2000-3000 on?

scorpion1110
05-08-2019, 04:17 PM
What was I spending $2000-3000 on?

The Crate motor that Tabasco bought that has the degreed balancer with 50 year old technology timing tab which obscures the degree readings on the later than 50 year old technology balancer which I feel is representative of the lack of quality control that is applied to the combination of parts that are used to create the 350 CI crate motors that are manufactured by GM performance and assembled overseas and sold by Summit or Jegs for $2000-$3000 approximate that you feel is ok and apparently reasonably includes the need to take a set of tin snips to lop off the ends of the 50 year old technologied timing tab on the engine that just arrived.

And yes that is one sentence.

Scorp

markm
05-08-2019, 04:44 PM
That timing tab is made EXACTLY as GM made them 50 years ago. It's not as big a problem as you guys are making it to be if you put a contrasting mark on the TDC stripe on the damper using a Sharpie or paint. On the other hand if the damper is fully degreed, it's just that much better if you make it into a pointer using tin snips.

I too having done this over 40 years ago don't see it as a big deal.

scorpion1110
05-08-2019, 04:53 PM
I too having done this over 40 years ago don't see it as a big deal.

And this is why I build my own engines. The parts match, the quality is right and I am not cutting up parts to make them work like the right parts. Yeah it works, but you SHOULDNT have to do it.

To each his own.

Scorp

Rick_L
05-08-2019, 05:55 PM
Here's my collection. More than I remembered.

9730

As you can see, we have 3 examples of how to trim. The chrome one on the left is for a 6" damper, the others are for an 8" damper.

I'd have no hesitation to use one of these on a future build or crate. Figuring out a cheap easy pointer to use with a degreed balancer is much preferred to figuring out a tab to use with a plain damper.

Tabasco
05-09-2019, 04:50 AM
Rick, I understand and what you're saying makes sense. But when you are spending $2000-$3000k Should you have to?

Actually it was $5770. I was going to buy a 383 from a Smeding Performance in San Antonio. But my wife wanted to go with a Chevrolet Performance engine. Here thinking was that if we were traveling and had a problem we wouldn't have to worry about what parts the builder used, we would have all GM parts and could get them at any Chevy dealer.

We just now got the engine unwrapped and in the frame. So far we have the timing tab problem and the new fuel pump is defective. I hope that is the only problems we run into.

Tabasco
05-23-2019, 04:38 AM
I haven't had much to report lately. I have been doing spring cleaning. I moved things from my shop to my garage. Now the only thing in the shop is her car and the parts to put it together.

I did get the engine and transmission in. I didn't use the Ecklers transmission mount after all. With the engine 3/4 inch forward I would have to modify the mount. It was easier to just make my own from plate steel and square tubing.

I modified the timing tab and I can now see the numbers. Jeggs replaced the defective fuel pump and I installed it. I put on the accessory drive. I didn't use the R4 compressor that came with the engine. I went with a Sanyo compressor so I still need to get a different serpentine belt.

It's supposed to be a pretty weekend so maybe I can finish my cleaning and get organized to get this car finished this year.

chevynut
05-23-2019, 07:48 AM
Sounds like you're moving right along on the build. Got any more pics? We like Pics. :)

Tabasco
05-24-2019, 04:30 PM
Sounds like you're moving right along on the build. Got any more pics? We like Pics. :)

9741

9742

Troy
05-25-2019, 07:15 AM
Very nice Tabasco (sorry don't know your real name) I'm looking for headers what brand are yours, and do you have a picture from the other side?

Tabasco
05-26-2019, 05:18 AM
9745

They are Sanderson Block Huggers. The two sides are quite different.

I researched headers for weeks. The long tube headers I liked wouldn't work on a convertible because of the x-member. Most 3/4 length had pittman arm or firewall clearance problems. Some had problems with plug clearance with Vortek heads.

I know a guy who has Sanderson Block Huggers on his car. I asked him about clearance problems and he said he had none. So that is what I bought.

The driver side is like a block hugger header and the passenger one is like a 3/4 length header. The may look different but I had no clearance issues.

(MY name is Louis)

Troy
05-26-2019, 11:57 AM
Thank you Louis,

Those are what people keep telling me about but this is the first time I've seen them in the open!!! Thank You very much!

Tabasco
09-10-2019, 12:42 PM
I'm still working on her car. I'm just old and slow and heat doesn't help much.

I wired up the engine, installed the under hood air conditioning, installed radiator and condenser, added a shroud, plumbed the brakes and connected the lines to the power steering box.

10090

10091

10092

I put on the back bumper and wired the back of the car...license lights, tail lights, backup lights, third brake lights and trunk light.

The car was running a 3:08 rear end and that wouldn't work too well with a 700R transmission. My wife and I pulled a 3:55 rear end from one of our parts cars. We had it rebuilt and we installed it in the car last weekend. Now we need to get the drive shaft shortened and maybe we can get the car running soon.

I won't be able to work on it for few weeks. I had skin cancer surgery and have stitches in my right shoulder. I'm not supposed to lift, reach, stretch or pull for two weeks. Maybe it will be cooler then and I can get a lot done.

chevynut
09-10-2019, 01:20 PM
Looking good! Hope your shoulder heals quickly and the prognosis is good.

Tabasco
09-11-2019, 04:26 AM
Thanks.

Rustaddict
09-11-2019, 04:31 AM
Are those the factory GM accessory brackets on the front of your engine? Did the aftermarket A/C compressor bolt in place of the GM compressor or is that a different bracket ?

Tabasco
09-13-2019, 08:10 AM
Yes it is the factory GM accessory brackets on the front of the engine. Vintage Air sells a conversion bracket, part #141805 to install a Sanden compressor on the Chevy bracket.

Belair-o
09-15-2019, 05:42 AM
Yes it is the factory GM accessory brackets on the front of the engine. Vintage Air sells a conversion bracket, part #141805 to install a Sanden compressor on the Chevy bracket.

Thanks for posting the info on the R4 to Sanden compressor bracket. That didn't exist when I was installing my GM serpentine kit, and I couldn't figure how to make the Sanden conversion work. Good to know for the future!
Thanks, Doug

Rustaddict
09-16-2019, 04:19 AM
Yes thank you for sharing that. That's nice to know.

Tabasco
12-15-2019, 05:34 AM
Wow, it has been three months since I posted updates. I remember one time when I was in my 30s I did a frame off restoration in 3 months. Now in my 70s I work much slower.

I have been busy lately with a lot of other stuff but still did a little on the car. I filled and bled the top cylinders and pump then installed them on the car. Replaced the tack strip on the top frame. Polished and install some stainless moldings. Installed the side windows. Installed the gas tank.

For the last two years I thought each year would be the year it would be finished. Hopefully after the holidays are over I can get very busy on the car and finally finish it in 2020. Maybe.

BamaNomad
12-15-2019, 06:20 AM
Tabasco,

With the encouragement of the members here, I KNOW you're going to get your wife's convertible finished soon (this year!).. :)
(We're all working slower in our 'advanced experienced years'.. :)

Good luck! and keep us informed...

WagonCrazy
12-16-2019, 07:23 AM
stay with it Tabasco. You're on the home stretch. Focus on the finish line.

Tabasco
01-13-2020, 03:16 PM
On my last update I mentioned that I installed all the new vent, door and quarter glass. Here is what they look like.

10423

I've been trying to finish the brakes. Everything is new from front to back. I bled the master cylinder and installed it. I then loosened each bleeder screw one at a time to let gravity fill the system. I discovered a few leaks. Re tightening each connection fixed all the leaks except one. One caliper banjo bolt still leaked. I made the 20 mile round trip to the parts store for new copper washers. It still leaked so I checked the internet. A lot of people had the same problem. Someone suggested aluminum washers because they would crush better. So I got a set from Speedway and tried them. Still leaked. Someone suggested using 3 washers in case the bolt was a little tool long. The Speedway washers came 5 to the package, so I put 2 on one side of the bolt and one on the other side. Still leaked. Someone else suggested stat o seal washers. I had never heard of them before. So I ordered a set from Summit. They seem to work to stop the leak. I have been wanting to bleed the brakes for 3 weeks. Maybe I can get it done now.

55 Rescue Dog
01-13-2020, 04:31 PM
You are doing a beautiful job! I feel your pain on the leak, but I suspect the mating surfaces on the banjo bolt/caliper might not be plumb, or parallel. Seems like it should be a easy connection that's been around forever.

Tabasco
01-27-2020, 02:18 PM
I have been making a little progress lately. Sometimes it is two steps forward and one step back. A few weeks ago I reported that I filled and bled the top cylinders and pump then installed them on the car. Well last week I looked in the trunk and saw a puddle of red liquid. I had a leak. It didn't show while I was bleeding it. I pulled everything out and found I had two leaks I had to fix. This time I left it on the work bench for a few days with nice clean paper towels under each fitting with no sign of leaks. So I reinstalled everything and hope it is fixed.

I'm going to reinstall the original bumpers. They got re-plated in the 1970s and still look good enough for a driver. But the front center section had a small spot where the chrome peeled off. It looked like it was going to continue to peel. So I went on ebay and bought a new made in America triple chrome plated center section. The 40 year old chrome still looks pretty good beside the new.

Last week I got the shifter hooked up. I"m sure it will need some fine tuning but it works good enough for now.

Over the weekend my wife and I bleed the brakes. I took the car off the jack stands for the fist time in months. When I get in it now that it is on the suspension, it moves around and feels weird. And when I get out of the car I still try step down 2 feet but the car is now a lot lower.

We also installed the top bows. I now need to order weather strip for the top bows and a new windshield seal. Then I can adjust the top and windows. There is a lot of adjustments for a convertible.

10453

BamaNomad
02-11-2020, 06:45 AM
It's looking very good, Tabasco! Your wife is going to be driving in style very soon!! :)

Tabasco
06-12-2020, 05:57 AM
I haven't posted any updates lately. I haven't done much to the car lately. My wife was still working when the covid-19 thing started. Her job was calling on grocery stores. The stores just got more and more crowded so she decided to take two weeks off until the "lowering of the curve" took place. By then our state started opening up some and the stores were more crowded, so she took off two more weeks. Well she liked time off so much that she just decided to retire. So now I'm stuck...I mean now I'm privileged to be sheltering in place with my wife.

We have caught up on a lot of maintenance items around the place. We had a lot of rain this spring so we were behind on our mowing. It takes a lot of time to mow 20 acres. When it rains often you have to mow nearly every week.

But I have started working on the car again. Now I have full-time helper for things I can't do by myself. When I started this post 2 years ago I had recently retired. I said I hoped to get it finished soon. Well, now that my wife has retired, I hope to get the car done soon.

Tabasco
06-28-2020, 05:18 AM
I got a little done on the car this week. We installed the windshield. Then I polished all the stainless around the windshield. (There is a lot of windshield stainless on a convertible.)

The hard part was installing the nuts on the studs on the clips for the outside lower molding. The nuts are installed from under the dash. With an AAW Update wiring harness, Rain Gear Wipers and Vintage Air it was hard to see the studs and harder to get my hand in there. But I got it done.

Then I polished up all the chrome pieces that bolt on to the windshield frame and top frame and installed them.

The next thing is to get the top frame and windows adjusted. I have been told that is not always easy. When you adjust one area it changes another area. Everything has to be right for it to work and look correct. Hopefully it will go well.

BamaNomad
06-28-2020, 06:43 AM
AS long as each week there's a little progress, it will get finished Tabasco! :)

There's lots of stainless on hardtops and Nomads also, in fact, I think the amount of stainless increased each year on each model! The '57 Nomad I'm working on has a TON of stainless also! :)

What color top are you installing? Beige? Are you doing it yourself? I've got a '60 Corvette that a new top needs to be installed on also; I'm planning on *trying* it myself although I've never done one... but I've got lots of other work to do first! :) (like remove the windshield to install a new dash pad and windshield seals... :)

Tabasco
06-29-2020, 04:59 AM
We will look at some color samples before deciding on a top. Most beige tops I have seen are darker than our paint. Will probably go with white. I think we will let the pros do the install. Since the Corvette top is smaller that might not be so hard to install. Good luck with it.

BamaNomad
06-29-2020, 05:03 AM
That's what I was thinking (re installing my Corvette top)... at least I'll learn something, even if I have to get a pro to fix it.. :)

Good luck with yours! We're all looking forward to seeing photos of yours complete (especially your wife I bet?).. :)

Gary

Slim57
06-29-2020, 06:29 PM
Know I am kinda new around here, but wanted to say the car is looking great. It is both inspiration and intrepidating to us newbies. :D

Wishing all the best with wife's new retirement too.

Tabasco
07-20-2020, 06:40 AM
We got a little more done. Front fenders are installed and adjusted. Installed the headlights and park lights and got them wired up. Installed the grill and bumper. The pile of parts to install is getting smaller.

11052

The drive shaft shop told me to assemble the car to get weight on the suspension like it will be when completed before measureing for the drive shaft. It is getting closer to that weight.

BamaNomad
07-20-2020, 07:22 AM
We're about as anxious as you and your wife are Tabasco... :) .. to see it completed and driving.. :)
What we've seen is beautiful...

Tabasco
01-21-2022, 07:14 AM
I can't believe it has been a year and a half since I posted any updates. The older I get the slower I get and I get older every year. Now that this is again a website about cars I thought I would let y'all know some of the things we have done since I last posted here.

The car is completely assembled except for the hood.

12454

In my original post I said this all started because of needing a new radio. I was going to build a console for a double din radio. Since then I have become addicted to SiriusXM radio. So I just bought a cheap AM/FM and an in-car kit to use my SiriusXM shop radio in the car. I made a mini console to hold it. We put in new Daytona carpet.

I put gauges in the dash where the radio used to go.

12453

I'll post more later on what progress we have made.

markm
01-21-2022, 10:07 AM
I love the color.

55 Rescue Dog
01-21-2022, 10:26 AM
Looks Great!

BamaNomad
01-21-2022, 02:45 PM
The car is looking great Tabasco! I'm curious about a couple of things ..
1) Your dash trim appears to be covered in a wood grain? Can you provide some more details of what you did there?
2) I'm also interested in the arrangement with the 'low cost' amfm radio wtih your SiriusXM radio... I love XM radio and listen to that 99% of the time I'm in the car, so I'd like to do similar. Can you provide more details on what 'radio kit' you used, and also where did you install the XM antenna??

GAry

57fleetside
01-22-2022, 06:41 AM
Love it!!!! Steve

Tabasco
01-22-2022, 08:46 AM
The car is looking great Tabasco! I'm curious about a couple of things ..
1) Your dash trim appears to be covered in a wood grain? Can you provide some more details of what you did there?
2) I'm also interested in the arrangement with the 'low cost' amfm radio wtih your SiriusXM radio... I love XM radio and listen to that 99% of the time I'm in the car, so I'd like to do similar. Can you provide more details on what 'radio kit' you used, and also where did you install the XM antenna??

GAry

1. I was looking for something to put on the front of my mini console. Also I didn't need a clock so I wanted something to cover that hole and I wanted to cover the Impala center cap on the steering wheel. I found this 3m wrap on Amazon that looked like it would match the colors on the car. Then I decided to put it on the dash trim too. I'm still trying to figure out if I like it or want to do something else. That's easy enough to change later.

2. I have the SiriusXM Portable Speaker Dock In my shop. The Home antenna and power cord are attached. The radio just slides into the dock to connect to power and antenna.
12456

I also got the vehicle kit.
12457
It comes with things to mount the dock in air vents or stick on the dash. I mounted this dock on my console. There is a male/male jack cord to go from the dock to the auxiliary port on the fm radio. So I can remove my radio from the dock in the shop and put it in the dock in the car. It just snaps in and is ready to start listening.

The instructions for the car antenna are different for each type of vehicle. For a convertible it said to put it between the trunk lid and back window. Since I had a third brake light located there I ran the wires through a hole I already had. There was plenty of antenna wire to go all the way to the dash. The antenna is magnetic.

Louis

Tabasco
01-22-2022, 08:50 AM
I love the color.

Thanks. We like it too. At one time about 20 years ago we had 4 cars that color. Now we just have two.

Tabasco
01-22-2022, 08:54 AM
Looks Great!

Thanks

Tabasco
01-22-2022, 08:56 AM
Love it!!!! Steve

Thanks.

markm
01-22-2022, 09:24 AM
Thanks. We like it too. At one time about 20 years ago we had 4 cars that color. Now we just have two.

I have two 56 2hts that color myself, one done the other needs built. The one that needs build is still in original paint.

BamaNomad
01-22-2022, 03:09 PM
Great colors for sure! :)

And Thanks Louis for the details on your Sirius/XM install.. ;) I'll be looking into those kits!

Tabasco
01-23-2022, 06:04 AM
When we started this project years ago we planned to get all new interior. But after looking at the old interior, that was done in 1977, we decided it is good enough for this old driver quality refresh we are doing. So we did a thorough cleaning and put the interior back in the car.

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Besides new carpet there was one other change I wanted to make. Here are the door panels that were done in 1977. They were not done as well as the rest of the interior and I didn't think they looked good when they were new.

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Here are the ones my wife and I made. They fit the door better and closely resemble original door panels. The colors on the door panel line up with the colors on the rear side panels now,

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So while we were at the upholstery supply shop we decided to buy enough vinyl to upholster the trunk. I also bought a yard of Daytona carpet and copper edging from automotiveinteriors.com. My step-daughter, who is a seamstress, sewed the edging on for us.

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We are now having second thoughts about not running a spare tire. So later we may have to make changes in the trunk.

But right now our main concern is to get the car drive able and get the bugs worked out.

BamaNomad
01-23-2022, 06:35 AM
That 1977 interior work looks very good, and it must be durable (it certainly looks so).. If it were mine, I'd go with it.. :)

markm
01-23-2022, 03:59 PM
Getting on the road is always a priority.

Belair-o
01-24-2022, 06:17 AM
Your door panel change worked out very well - those look great and fit the style a lot better!

Tabasco
01-24-2022, 06:17 AM
That 1977 interior work looks very good, and it must be durable (it certainly looks so).. If it were mine, I'd go with it.. :)

We went to the upholstery supply with a sample from the car. The guy looked at everything close in the automotive vinyl but no match. Then he got and idea and went to the marine vinyl section and found almost a perfect match. I asked what the difference was. He said the marine vinyl was a little heavier and was more UV resistant. That explains why it held up so well.

BamaNomad
01-24-2022, 06:39 AM
Marine vinyl is probably a good choice for a convertible... :) they had all-vinyl interiors from the factory!

markm
01-24-2022, 09:47 AM
I like the changes, what kid of arm rest/ handles are those?

Tabasco
01-24-2022, 02:37 PM
They 57 Pontiac star chief arm rests.

markm
01-24-2022, 04:57 PM
A lot nicer looking than what is in my 55 150, but probably not easy to find today.

Tabasco
01-26-2022, 03:34 PM
I sure was glad when I connected the battery the first time. No smoke and no flames. It is all new AAW Classic Update harness. We checked everything (except heat/ac and radio, we'll worry about those after it is running good). Everything worked.

We primed the oil pump, replaced the distributor and set the initial timing. We put some gas in the fuel vents and turned on the key. It started right up. While messing with idle and timing it was running through open headers. I could hear a knocking noise. The exhaust was so noisy I couldn't tell where the noise was coming from. I was happy it started, but not happy about the knocking.

After filing the transmission and power steering I checked for leaks. Then I found one transmission cooler line was leaking pretty good. I went under the car and couldn't get a wrench on the line. So it was off to Harbor Freight for a set of crowfoot flair wrenches. I got that fixed.

Then we got it running just good enough to drive on the trailer and take it to the muffler shop. Before loading it back on the trailer I did some adjusting on the carb and it is idling well now.

We took it home and put it back in the shop. I started it and moved my head all around trying for the source of the knocking sound. My wife got on the floor and told me the sound was coming from the bottom rear of the engine. I thought that maybe I forgot to tighten the torque convertor bolts. I took of the dust cover. The bolts were all tight. Then I started to reinstall the dust cover and noticed a section about 4 inches that had been chewed away. I left the cover off and started the engine. NO more noise!!! I called the transmission shop and asked what happened. He said "universal part, trim to fit."

Moving forward.

WagonCrazy
01-27-2022, 08:08 PM
That is far more simple to replace than the whole engine from say a bearing going bad. Get some video of you guys driving it and post that soon.

Tabasco
02-12-2022, 01:56 PM
Not much progress to report in the last few weeks. We've been busy with family issues and health issues. My wife and I both came down with something. It had all the symptoms as Covid except no fever. I don't know what it was but it took about a week to get over it.

You won't believe a problem that appeared after I got the engine running. The chrome thermostat housing started leaking. There was a thread all about leaking housings a few weeks ago. So I removed the chrome one and replaced it with a genuine '56 cast steel housing. I blasted it and painted it silver and covered it with high heat clear. It looks right a home on the aluminum intake. No leaks now.

The next step is to break in the engine. Being a roller cam engine it has directions for driving it to break it in. We had about a week of cold weather and I'm not driving a convertible with no top in freezing weather. Yesterday we got a 75 degree day. We got to go for our first ride. We drove it about 30 miles to fill the tank with ethanol free gas. I ran and drove pretty well. No major problems. (sorry didn't get a video)

But there a few minor problems. The transmission position wire came loose from the instrument cluster. It still needed a little adjustment but it doesn't work at all now.

I bragged about no electrical problems, but for safety sake I still remove the negative terminal when the car is parked. One day I hooked up the terminal and heard something start running. The heat/ac fan was running. The switches were off. So I pulled out the fuse and will check it out later.

When I first hooked up the battery I checked the Raingear wipers and they worked. But when I got ready to put on the wiper arms the wipers don't work. The windshield washer works and they are on the same fuse and switch. I stuck my head under the dash and there are a lot of wires under there. I may have to pull the instrument cluster to see the switch to see if there are any loose wires.

So we are making a little progress and finding a few bugs to repair. I'm just ready for more warm weather.

WagonCrazy
02-20-2022, 08:28 PM
Encouraging to hear you got it out for a long drive. These are typical post-wiring troubleshooting issues Tabasco. Stay with it. Troubleshoot one circuit at a time and reduce the urge to get distracted. Think the circuit through. 99% of the time it's human error or oversight on how you did some aspect of it. You'll get it.

markm
02-21-2022, 08:48 AM
I remember the grief a loose bulkhead connection on the main harness caused on my 56 when finished.

Tabasco
02-22-2022, 05:35 AM
I'm sure it is human error. I never did so much wiring on a car before. I'm not surprised that a connector wasn't done right or a ground came loose. I'm relieved that most of it is working. Now to fix the few problems and start cruising.

markm
02-22-2022, 11:05 AM
My 56 survived my teenage years because the wiring was too screwed up to be driven on the street.

Tabasco
11-11-2022, 01:28 PM
Well it has been 9 months since I gave an update. I has been a rough year. My wife has developed heart problems and vision problems. She has been my only helper through this build but she is not able to help much any more. So the car has not had any more work for a few months.

I have a cousin who calls every few months to see how I am doing. He called last month and asked how the car was coming along. He came over and in a few days we corrected most things need to get it road worthy.

My wife finally got to ride in her car for the first time in years. With her vision problem she may not get to drive it again but he she sure enjoyed riding in it again.
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We have gone about 100 miles so far with no major problems It still has a few bugs to work out but we should be cruising in it next spring when it warms up. The only big thing left to do is get a new top installed.

WagonCrazy
11-11-2022, 07:54 PM
That's great news Tabasco. Great that you got your wife out in the car for a cruise. Keep doing that as often as you can. :)

BamaNomad
11-12-2022, 08:28 AM
Super Tabasco! I'm sure your wife appreciates your hard work and the 'ride'.. hopefully by spring your and her health issues will be behind you both and you can cruise the nice days away!~ :)

.. and the car looks great ... :)