radiator ready to install

[bsa_bob2]

Need the radiator core support cradle rubbers and shims. Not knowing what to use.for thickness how many shims?--how many rubbers? -HOW MANY KITS AND WHO should I GET THEM FROM?- not yelling one finger typer.55 illustration in manual shows this,but are we going to a random height of the radiator and core support??, please advise,thanks much bob s

[markm]

No one right answer to ay of this, lots of good suppliers out there. The amount of shims depends an too many variables to count. I would start with none and add as necessary.

[chevynut]

The fenders are bolted to the radiator support. The shims under the radiator support determine the fender to door gaps, so you need to add shims until that gap is correct. I don't think you add more rubber, so you should only need one kit unless something is not right.

[Rick_L]

The shims are rubber. The kit comes with several in various thicknesses.

Adding shims increases the gap between the fender and door.

[Newbieexpert]

I probably should have used some shims in under my support. But then the doors would not have the perfect gaps! Mine probably differs however since it is a front clip from a 68 Chevy II.

[55 Tony]

Adding shims increases the gap between the fender and door.

Rick I'm confused on how it does that? My shim kit had one piece of rubber, and metal shims to add if needed. I think I added one or so old shims that I took out. I also used nylon type lock nuts instead of bending the steel tabs over to lock the nuts.

[chevynut]

Adding shims doesn't increase the gap between the fender and door. It changes the angle of the fender edge relative to the door edge. If the fender to door gap is too tight at the bottom and has a wide door to fender gap on top, you add shims under the radiator support. If it's the opposite you remove shims.

[Rick_L]

Rick I'm confused on how it does that? My shim kit had one piece of rubber, and metal shims to add if needed.

Maybe the kit varies with who you get it from. Mine came with a thick piece of rubber, and several thinner pieces for shims. Also another not quite so thick rubber for below the frame bracket, and a sheet metal piece for there too, plus bolts and nuts. I got it from Resto World, but it was in a "Ol' 55" bag.

It wouldn't matter if the shims were rubber or steel, the big pieces of rubber are what do the cushioning and isolation.

[Rick_L]

Looked in the shop for the package that the pieces came in. It wasn't "Ol'55" as I said but instead it was from California Classic Chevy Parts aka DKM Mfg. Inc. Their p/n EO463. I've purchased other parts made by them from various retailers such as Danchuk and H&H. I don't think they sell direct. But it's the right pieces and a complete kit.

[bsa_bob2]

I have my radiator setting a touch to high,.The fan runs closer to the shroud on the bottom than it does on the top.So if i take the 1.4" rubber [piece of truck mudflap]It should give me added room for the fan clearance on the cradle. Am i right?As sits sets right now.My radiator should setting on the cradle - no shims no rubbers.Doesn't the body mounts, play into this somewhere? to get everything in on the same game- as far as alignment of body in relation to the cradle?therefore radiator and fan shroud get lined up. cheers bob s your thoughts on this anyone.

[markm]

Aftermarket motor mounts can change fan height and clearance.

[bsa_bob2]

Think i got it now.trying to find grade 8 bolts 4" long partial thread they aren't
everywhere i have found , buying 10 bolts for a 2 bolt job doesn't set well with me either. OH well! thanks bob s

[BamaNomad]

Check in Lowes hardware section for the bolts; my store has grade 5 and grade 8 in many lengths/sizes partial thread...

[55 Tony]

If you have a Tractor Supply near you, they sell bolts by weight. Long ago I bought some bins and I almost always buy more than I need. Now I have quite a selection and seldom have to go out for bolts. Also when throwing things away I take things apart and save grade 5 and 8 bolts if they look like new.