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55 Tony
09-30-2018, 04:19 AM
I got lucky, my first night back there they actually had stuff hooked up. Crude, not all working all the time, but something to go by.
I guess it was only printing one slip so they tore them in half. What a hack. Actually it was printing a yellow copy too, like for a credit card, not as easy to read but better then tearing the slip in half. I'll bitch about that next time.
This it the first with the new converter. The light was funny. two staged lights, all four yellows at once, then green.
OK, now I see why you guys start taking parts off the car for less weight. I wasn't planning on going and had a full tank of gas.
Oh, it was hooking great with one so so burnout the first time, then just short ones after that. Still working on what I can rev it to when staged.

chasracer
09-30-2018, 03:09 PM
Taking a shot with Wallace stuff and 3400 pounds, 319 hp and a conversion to 13.31 in the 1/4 - Not to shabby for a street mannered '55.

55 Tony
09-30-2018, 06:07 PM
Thanks, when I rebuilt it with the cam it has I thought how great it ran and drove perfectly fine on the street I was happy. Now I'm left thinking ... I could have let it not be SO perfect on the street and went up a step with the cam for something in between street and strip, but that's how the cam was described. I may try it with open headers, not certain if I'll drive it there and home like that. A friend told me that it may be better with a certain length pipe. He has some old ingrained ways of doing things, but he told me to put about 5' of pipe on and spray paint a line down it. Where the paint stops burning off is where I cut the pipe. Ever hear of that one?

I have to remember to see if the local Farmers Co-Op has a scale. Another option is about a 1/2 mile very dusty drive to a quarry, I'm sure they would weigh me.

Rick_L
09-30-2018, 06:20 PM
The paint on the pipe trick won't work. If you cut the pipe where it tells you and then paint the pipe again, it will tell you to cut some more off. Again and again until there's no pipe left.

Running without the mufflers should give you a power increase and an et reduction. There's only two reasons it wouldn't help the time - either you lose traction, or it affects an already bad tuneup the wrong direction.


What's so hard about disconnecting the exhaust at the track if you can do it at home? You just need to carry a jack, jack stands, and tools with you. Of course this stuff is what leads to trailers when you extend it a bit.

55 Tony
10-01-2018, 06:14 AM
If you saw where I live and where I have to drive to you might say to drive it with open headers. The whole ride is just over a mile. I'll try at home with just one loose bolt in each reducer if I can take it off and on without a jack.

markm
10-01-2018, 07:04 AM
With a good 2.5 -3.0 system I never bothered to pull mufflers. A lot of work for no gain.

55 Tony
10-01-2018, 01:19 PM
Edit: I was measuring inside not outside to get 2.25". I guess I do have 2.5"

They are mandrel bent. DynoMax super turbo mufflers.

chasracer
10-01-2018, 01:29 PM
LOL!! It's just more fun to drive open headers!

And yes the pipe and line trick does work, I have done it but just paint the line on the raw pipe with some really cheap paint. Chop it off at the end of the burn plus an inch - that will help the torque some.

Depending on which way you want to go with it, you might consider advancing or retarding the camshaft. You'll have to verify exhaust valve clearance if you move the cam around but if you have never done it, you will be surprised at how different the engine will respond. Almost like sticking a new stick in it.

If you can get it weighed that would be good information for you. My old Chevelle which was gutted, glass hood and bumpers I thought was about 3000-3100 - darned thing was actually 3210. It takes a lot to wipe out the weight of that old heavy metal.

55 Rescue Dog
10-01-2018, 03:17 PM
Just the weight of the driver can make a difference. I'm at 175 now, but when I was racing karts at 220, that was a big chunk of the power to weight ratio.

55 Tony
10-02-2018, 03:40 PM
I'd have to look back and see for sure, but this is a lot closer to my estimated weight from a while ago.
Wallace calculators give 370 & 378 HP. If it's hard to read, the gross weight is 3920.
The HP still isn't nearly what I thought.

markm
10-02-2018, 04:30 PM
is that with you on board

Rick_L
10-02-2018, 08:21 PM
Steer axle 3400? Drive axle 520? No way.

55 Tony
10-03-2018, 04:30 AM
Yes me on board.

Rick, I wasn't lined up to accurately measure from front to back. The total is all that matters.

markm
10-03-2018, 06:24 AM
My Gutted glass hood 75 Camaro with a BBC with Alum. W/P Intake & Heads weighs 3360 no driver and my 74 glass hood Z28 SBC is 3550, no driver. high 6 sec. and mid 7s in the 1/8 on the other. My all stock 4 speed 74 Z28 is 3750 no driver. So 3920 sounds possible, but I would think closer to 60/40 on dist.

55 Tony
10-03-2018, 10:51 AM
, but I would think closer to 60/40 on dist.

Well send me $11.50 and I'll go weigh it again without pulling up as far. Hell, if I stay back far enough I'm sure I could make the rear weigh more than the front, as far as the scale knows. (shaking my head in disbelief ?)

55 Rescue Dog
10-03-2018, 03:57 PM
My street legal 400hp tube frame, aluminum body 81 Camaro weighs 2945lbs without driver, and my 1950 Chevy 1.5 ton 85 horsepower fire truck weighs in at 7200lbs empty, and it takes awhile to get to it's 45mph top speed, but even that is really a thrill trying to drive it to its limit.
My goal is to keep my 55 C4 to 3200lbs, or less with a cage. I'm not going to have to buy a lot of ace$$orie$.

55 Tony
10-03-2018, 04:15 PM
The firetruck must be fun to drive! I knew someone with and old one that was chain drive.

55 Rescue Dog
10-04-2018, 04:00 PM
The firetruck must be fun to drive! I knew someone with and old one that was chain drive.
Heavy can be a lot of fun, until your friends see you. :cool:
9228

55 Tony
10-22-2018, 07:06 AM
ET 8.190
speed 77.16
reaction .379
60' 1.730
330' 5.161

What in the <$1000 range can I do to go faster, the most bang for the buck. I feel the need to get in the 7's at least. Well number 1, the quadrajet did better than the Holley. I don't know if a little more tuning could change that.
I could stand a more radical cam, as this one that is supposed to be half radical drives perfect on the street with no drawbacks whatsoever. But I don't know my valve to piston clearance, just that it was getting close, so I'd have to pull one or both heads which I'd rather not do. And I'm NOT pulling the pistons to have them cut, that's definitely out for now. Thinking about it now, I guess a better reaction time could put me in the high 7's.
My current cam: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=436&sb=0

markm
10-22-2018, 07:48 AM
My oval port 781 casting,800 Holley D?P, 595/.621 solid cam, 10-1 forged TRWs 454 ran 7.10 in the 1/8 in a 3360 Camaro w/o driver. To get into the 6 second club required 13-1 pistons, alum heads, !050 Dominator and solid roller cam. You reach a point where you have to start over. Both 454s used the same 8 inch 5000 stall converter, th400 and 4.10 geared Dana 60 Powerlock. FYI A perfect reaction time Will Not gain you a damn thing, your et does not start until your car rolls out of the beam. Theoretically you can sit there for five minutes after green and run a 5 second 1/8.


On second thought cutting the car up to lose 3 or 4 hundred pounds would do it.

chasracer
10-22-2018, 04:55 PM
I'll go again - advance the cam and see how the engine likes it. You'll have to check the exhaust valve for clearance because that piston is chasing it but assuming that's a go, advancing the cam will seem like you installed a fresh one. And it'll cost a lot less than a grand too.

Rick_L
10-22-2018, 05:48 PM
Advancing the cam makes intake valve/piston clearance smaller and exhaust valve/piston clearance larger. Can help but it's a finesse thing not a big change.

chasracer
10-22-2018, 06:29 PM
Opps - yep Rick is right. Last one I did, we were retarding the camshaft to move the RPM range up and it was the exhaust valve clearance I was worried about. Thanks for catching my goof.

55 Tony
10-23-2018, 05:05 AM
The cam is already advanced 2°. So would you take a chance on 4°? I was thinking of retarding it so it's how it's supposed to be. What do my 60' and 330' times tell you?

On a side note, Summit wouldn't let me use the word "retard" in a review! Not politically correct. I even argued with them and told them that their tech support uses the word. They didn't give in. Sigh.

Actually, if it's not going to be much of a change, while it's that far apart I'd rather change the cam, but again, would I need to remove the head(s) to check valve clearance? And what would I have to do if their is no clearance? That whole thing sounds like a wait till winter project if I'm pulling the heads. Then I can CC them so I know what the hell my CR really is.

On another side note, I noticed this one guy I was up against a few runs go to the very end of the track and stop. I didn't think of it till later but do you think he was checking his plugs?

BamaNomad
10-23-2018, 05:26 AM
....
....
On a side note, Summit wouldn't let me use the word "retard" in a review! Not politically correct. I even argued with them and told them that their tech support uses the word. They didn't give in. Sigh.
.....


So what word did they suggest you use?

What is our country coming to, when IDIOTS are running everything from our government, media, and corporate policy....??... :(

markm
10-23-2018, 05:38 AM
Do your heads have 2.19/1.88 valves installed. If I recall they are 781s, good stuff.

For serous performance I would ditch the juice cam. they have no place in a race car. Especially the roller ones they are heavy.

chasracer
10-23-2018, 05:50 AM
The whole "Political Correctness" BS has been out of hand for quite a while now. And this is where I get into trouble but honestly I don't really care. When we started allowing women into job titles that were completely handled by men historically, that was the beginning of our decline into this mass of crap that we have to deal with today. I worked in the phone industry for 34 years and literally watched as women came on board to take these positions. By and large, most of them found out that they could not do the jobs but in most cases management was "forced" to overlook their shortcomings and not do anything about it. A double standard was established - what I had to do to get my work done versus what a female had to do was completely different for the same job and pay level. And yes I am still pissed off about it so don't bother telling me to get over it. We also had to hide all of the girlie magazines :). What really started all this nonsense was the federal government driving prime rates to ridiculous levels, banks in turn charging high rates on homes and cars which in turn forced women in families to join the workforce to make ends meet in the family unit. Women in the predominately male workforce exposed more women to men which in turn lead to more affairs and resulting in more broken families due to divorces. You probably disagree with me but believe me, I literally watched all of this happening.

If the cam is already bumped up 2 degrees, then I doubt if pushing it 2 more is going to get you much benefit on the bottom end. What you can do is possibly obtain some valve checking springs and check what your clearances are currently with the cam you have - that should give you some idea of how much more cam you can go with but you would still need to check the new cam during installation. And yes, it's not uncommon to take a couple of plugs with you on a run, kill it at the end of run and switch out a couple of plugs and read them as best you can when you get back to the pits. I feel the best way to read a plug is to cut the base off exposing the entire length of the porcelain - a lot easier to see exactly what is going on.

markm
10-23-2018, 06:29 AM
If I recall you have old TRW 2365 pistons, not tons of relief built in, however roller cams are more forgiving due to faster ramps.

55 Tony
10-23-2018, 10:32 AM
My pistons are https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-wl2465f30/overview/


I do have 781's but with original size valves.
(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-wl2465f30/overview/)

markm
10-23-2018, 12:49 PM
My pistons are https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-wl2465f30/overview/


I do have 781's but with original size valves.
(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-wl2465f30/overview/)

I have seen several 454s run very low 7 second 1/8s with those pistons and 781s with the aforementioned oversize valves. I already posted I damn near made the high 6 second club with them. Currently you should have 2.06/1.72 real gain to be had with 2.19/1.88s.

55 Tony
10-24-2018, 03:02 PM
I have seen several 454s run very low 7 second 1/8s with those pistons and 781s with the aforementioned oversize valves. I already posted I damn near made the high 6 second club with them. Currently you should have 2.06/1.72 real gain to be had with 2.19/1.88s.

Do my heads have room for larger valves?

55 Rescue Dog
10-24-2018, 03:05 PM
Do my heads have room for larger valves?
Looks like the intake seat is toast, so I would guess no.

Rick_L
10-24-2018, 03:20 PM
Disagree on the no, the new intake seat will be .065" further out, and the old seat cut away.

Looks like there's lots of room between the valves. The 2.19" intakes that markm mentioned should fit fine. Same on the 1.88" exhausts.

55 Rescue Dog
10-24-2018, 03:29 PM
Disagree on the no, the new intake seat will be .065" further out, and the old seat cut away.

Looks like there's lots of room between the valves. The 2.19" intakes that markm mentioned should fit fine. Same on the 1.88" exhausts.
I believe it's a BBC, and I see cracks in the intake seat, and valve. Just a guess. but it looks like a leaking valve.

markm
10-24-2018, 03:43 PM
I BBC seen many a 781 & 049 head machined to accept the 2.19. 1.88 valves with no issues. I agree with Rick the larger valves will be on new metal.

55 Tony
10-26-2018, 09:06 AM
That picture is from before they were installed. I don't think there is a leaking valve, I get 205 to 210psi cranking compression all around. On the valve I think you see a mark in some carbon from a wire brush. I do see the little cracks in the seat though, or is that in the casting? I haven't the slightest clue how big around the hardened seats are but it sort of looks like the cracks stop at the seat?

Rick_L
10-26-2018, 10:29 AM
What I'm seeing is that there are radial marks on the outside of the pressed in seat, but they stop short of the outside diameter of the valve. So I don't see anything on the actual seating surface. They may or may not be actual cracks.

What you may be up against if you go to bigger valves is that you may have to start over and replace the pressed seats for bigger ones. A little measuring would confirm or deny this.

55 Tony
10-26-2018, 03:01 PM
What you can do is possibly obtain some valve checking springs and check what your clearances are currently with the cam you have - that should give you some idea of how much more cam you can go with but you would still need to check the new cam during installation.

How do you use valve checking springs?

chasracer
10-27-2018, 09:59 AM
They are just light weight springs. You replace your normal valve springs on one cylinder, use the same retainer and valve locks. This way you can rotate the engine to different degree settings and push the valve down with your finger. I use the back end of a dial caliper to see what the reading is. Your're looking for the difference between full height and open height touching the piston.

Rick_L
10-27-2018, 01:17 PM
Rotate the engine to 10° BTDC on overlap. Put a dial indicator or caliper on the exhaust valve and get a zero reading. Push down on the exhaust valve retainer with your fingers until the valve hits the piston. Measure again. The distance the valve moves is your clearance.

Rotate the engine to 10° ATDC on overlap and repeat the procedure on the intake valve.

On a solid lifter engine you don't even need checking springs. Just use the regular springs and the lash adjuster.

55 Tony
10-27-2018, 01:25 PM
That sounds easier and more accurate than measuring the clay on the piston when I put it together. I forget, what is considered a safe clearance?

I have an order from Summit that is at about $70. (including the springs) Need something else to get the free shipping and a $10 off special.

Rick_L
10-27-2018, 02:50 PM
Safe clearance on a street engine is .080-.100" on the intake, and .100-.120" on the exhaust. On a race engine with bushed lifter bores, accurate machining, etc. you can run as low as .055-.060" on the intake and .075-.080" on the exhaust. But you must check every valve/every piston and be diligent about valve springs. When everything is run this close, a new engine must have the heads removed after the first few dyno pulls or runs down the track to look for traces of anything hitting.

55 Tony
01-05-2019, 03:58 PM
Last week I advanced the timing and finally (barely) got into the 7's, 7.981
Today I backed off the timing a degree an got a 7.948
Then I adjusted the Quadrajet air valve spring 1/4 turn TIGHTER and got a 7.815
Gave it another 1/8 turn and it slowed down a bit.
Best run
ET 7.815
MPH 86.93
60' 1.724
The Wallace racing calculators say 400HP and 406HP
Weight was on the high side since I forgot about this weekend and had over 1/2 tank of fuel. So a little more than 3920lbs. I didn't allow for that in the calculations.

Didn't stay for brackets. It's all tune and test for me.

55mike
01-06-2019, 05:04 PM
FWIW, I have a close friend with a 55 sedan, stock ZZ502, OD-A/T, 3:55 gears, and he ran 8.6's .. so sounds like you have a stout street machine since it's in the 7's.. Just say'n..

55 Tony
01-08-2019, 05:21 AM
FWIW, I have a close friend with a 55 sedan, stock ZZ502, OD-A/T, 3:55 gears, and he ran 8.6's .. so sounds like you have a stout street machine since it's in the 7's.. Just say'n..

Thanks. But for some dumb reason I'm about to spend some more money to make it faster. Looking at some aluminum heads with bigger valves. I'm still running stock heads.

markm
01-08-2019, 05:54 AM
There is still a ton to be gained with the 781s, I have seen several cars go high 6 low 7s in 1/8 with unported 781s with 2.19 /1.88 valves. I would ditch the hyd roller tractor cam first.

55 Tony
01-08-2019, 07:52 AM
There is still a ton to be gained with the 781s, I have seen several cars go high 6 low 7s in 1/8 with unported 781s with 2.19 /1.88 valves. I would ditch the hyd roller tractor cam first.

Tractor cam? What would you suggest? Right now I have it shifting at 6K and I don't want to go higher. And it has to have decent street manners too, it's more of a street car than a race car. I'm already tired of the 10" converter on the street.

BamaNomad
01-08-2019, 08:02 AM
It's a long slippery slope building a street car to use as a competitive race car (or vice versa)... and the slope leads to a big hole that you can't see the bottom of... which is where all your $$ ended up! :)

markm
01-08-2019, 08:44 AM
Tractor cam? What would you suggest? Right now I have it shifting at 6K and I don't want to go higher. And it has to have decent street manners too, it's more of a street car than a race car. I'm already tired of the 10" converter on the street.

Ever try shifting at 5500, I have a complete .030 454 with 10-1 TRW forged pistons, .595/.621 Wolverine solid cam, Performer RPM intake, 800 Holley dp, 781 heads that ran 7.07 in a 3600 pound Camaro with a 4.10 Dana and a 10 inch TCI stalled TH400, it ran its best there.

Ever wonder why I built this care see BamaNomads last post.

55 Tony
03-15-2019, 05:56 AM
Making my Q-jet 1" spacer into an open spacer to sort of defeat the dual plane manifold, I ran 2 7.77's. Ran the calculators and got 400 and 407HP at the engine. Can't find my slip and forget what the 60' was. Not sure if I should cut a little out of the dual plane divider? The spacer stay on either way. My tires are about gone. Trying to find out if they guys at the track set some rules in stone for a 275 DOT tire class. I may get some radial slicks that are stamped DOT but say illegal for highway use. That doesn't make much sense but?? As radials I think I'd be OK on the street, just not in any rain since they have what is a joke for tread.

Rustaddict
03-15-2019, 05:37 PM
What's your best ever time with it ?

Rick_L
03-15-2019, 06:43 PM
I may get some radial slicks that are stamped DOT but say illegal for highway use. That doesn't make much sense but?? As radials I think I'd be OK on the street, just not in any rain since they have what is a joke for tread.

Most drag radials with a DOT stamp will work fine on the street if the road is dry. Of course they won't last long. They will be downright dangerous if the road is wet. It will be like driving on ice.

Bitchin'57
03-16-2019, 12:27 AM
Most drag radials with a DOT stamp will work fine on the street if the road is dry. Of course they won't last long. They will be downright dangerous if the road is wet. It will be like driving on ice.
The ideal solution is to mount the drag radials on another pair of wheels, and put them on the day you go to the dragstrip.

55 Tony
03-16-2019, 04:04 AM
What's your best ever time with it ?

That was my best time 7.77 Keep in mind it's fully stock with weight added and non removed. 3920lbs with me.

55 Tony
03-16-2019, 04:19 AM
The ideal solution is to mount the drag radials on another pair of wheels, and put them on the day you go to the dragstrip.

That's what I've been doing with the slicks and was hoping to get away from. But I'll wait and see. It's sort of a pain in the butt to do. Jack the rear up almost 1', put jack stands under the frame, let the rear down and change the tires. If the anti-roll bar is installed that also has to be let loose to allow the suspension to hang low enough to get the tires out, so I took it off completely. I guess I'm lazy.

markm
03-16-2019, 09:05 AM
I tried a pair of drag radials once, they were not a good as slicks and ET suffered. Another pair of wheels is the answer.

chevynut
03-16-2019, 09:12 AM
Keep in mind it's fully stock with weight added and non removed. 3920lbs with me.

Must be one of those special 55s that came stock with the 454 option and 2.5" exhaust. :D

BamaNomad
03-16-2019, 09:23 AM
Yep.. very rare, so they always give him problems when he runs 'Strictly Stock'... :)

55 Tony
03-17-2019, 05:59 AM
Don't forget the th400 and the 12 bolt! All 70's type of "hot rod" stuff, well except the tranny would have a pedal.

markm
03-17-2019, 09:10 AM
No need to make excuses Tony I gave up racing with the pedal about 40 years ago, I was breaking to may Munchies. I cannot imagine building a car with a Saginaw.

55 Tony
03-17-2019, 10:08 AM
I tried a pair of drag radials once, they were not a good as slicks and ET suffered. Another pair of wheels is the answer.

I almost forgot my main reason for wanting to try radial slicks, the scary sway of the rear end at the far end of the track.

55 Tony
03-17-2019, 10:11 AM
Must be one of those special 55s that came stock with the 454 option and 2.5" exhaust. :D

I worded that poorly. What I meant was the weight of stock plus more. By stock I meant it has a front bumper, glass windows, full interior, ...

markm
03-17-2019, 05:31 PM
I almost forgot my main reason for wanting to try radial slicks, the scary sway of the rear end at the far end of the track.

I run Mickey Thompson for two reasons low heat compound and higher air pressures. Good handling and no need for stupid burnouts,.

55 Tony
03-18-2019, 07:25 AM
What do you think of these? The section width is a little wide but it's measured on a 10" rim and I have 8". https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3053s Talked to a tech at M/T and he said a lot of people use them without tubes, they wipe the inside down with murphys oil soap and they hold air pretty well. Also that gluing them with the red permatek gasket sealer works for most people who don't use screws. I used the spray on type with the Hoosiers and they would turn about 1" first run then pretty much stay put. He said to use the liquid and brush it on. Still I'm tempted to use some really good 3M contact adhesive, their heavy duty one. These are a really good price right now. Only 26" instead of 28" but I guess that's just like a little more gear.

Although this changes everything. Another reason to go to the *278 class* was to be running against people who aren't as fast. I still haven't done a single bracket race. I find the whole idea sort of silly, but a necessity to keep the same people from winning all the time and more people, more cars, more money.

markm
03-18-2019, 08:04 AM
My BBC Camaro has those in 29.5x10.5 on 10.00 SuperTricks with tubes and my SBC Z28 has 28x9.00 on 7.00 Supertricks with no tubes. I have a set of 28x10.5 on 8.00 Supertricks with tubes I have run on my 55 or 67 Camaro. I prefer tubes with screws, but have run screws without tubes. I would be reluctant to use the shorter tires, however a friend of mine went to them on his CJ Mustang and they seem to work.

Rick_L
03-18-2019, 05:13 PM
A shorter tire will have a smaller patch on the ground than a taller one of equal width.

I never ran tubes in my slicks except back when I was learning and didn't know better in the 70s. Tubes just add weight and stiffness. I always used screws. Goodyears without tubes will leak down in a day or at least a few days. No biggie for the track, not so good on the street. I don't know what other brands do. The use of chemicals to keep air in the tires or to try to bond the beads to the rims bothers me. Maybe people do it today. Actually the screws have gone the way of the do-do bird for faster cars too, they now use bead lock rims - and at some point are required, though not at your level.

markm
03-18-2019, 07:23 PM
I have seen beadlock rims on topfuel/funnycars, but everyone I know is still using screws with or without tubes. I would go with the taller tires,

55 Tony
03-20-2019, 04:24 AM
I can't find 28" tires with those specs, that's the reason for the shorter tire.

markm
03-20-2019, 06:27 AM
Summit shows four MT slicks styles 28 x10.50.

Bitchin'57
03-20-2019, 06:47 AM
I almost forgot my main reason for wanting to try radial slicks, the scary sway of the rear end at the far end of the track.
I experienced that same issue with my M/T ET Streets, and the sway went away when I increased the tire pressure by just a couple psi.

55 Tony
03-20-2019, 07:22 AM
Summit shows four MT slicks styles 28 x10.50.

Hmm, I guess I need wider wheels.

55 Tony
03-20-2019, 07:26 AM
Summit shows four MT slicks styles 28 x10.50.

I see now, I'm looking for something about 10.5 Section width not tread width.

markm
03-20-2019, 08:05 AM
I experienced that same issue with my M/T ET Streets, and the sway went away when I increased the tire pressure by just a couple psi.

I never run less than 15 psi.

markm
03-20-2019, 08:07 AM
I see now, I'm looking for something about 10.5 Section width not tread width.

Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks 900000 I think you want these 28x9.00s.

55 Tony
03-22-2019, 03:09 AM
Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks 900000 I think you want these 28x9.00s.

You lost a few numbers after the 900000. Was it the 90000000847's?