My '55 Belair 2 Door Hardtop Build (sort of

[Troy]

Hey All Don't get too excited yet I'm just setting up and starting a build thread to fill in as I go. I'm just in the planning and ordering of parts stage. This build will take A LONG TIME as I don't have a ton of money. I also have to reconfigure my garage as my oldest son takes up a lot of space with his Outlaw Sprint Kart.


The story of my '55 is that my father bought the car for me in '72 when I was 10 years old. He told me I could have it when I turned 16 and paid for one year of insurance. He also told me as well as my sister and two step brothers that he would buy our first tank of gas and put on a set of mag wheels and tires (what a dad)! I turned 16 paid for insurance and was off to the auto parts store for the first aftermarket parts for it, I put a 10" Cal Custom steering three spoke steering wheel on it. I soon learned the meaning of leverage!!!


Before I went to Arizona for design school my dad and I painted it '67 Corvette Rally Red, it was sharp. While in Phoenix I rear ended an old lady turning into a parking lot and a drunk at a bar backed down the drivers side from just behind the door to the rear bumper so I need to replace the lower quarter.


Anyway I've had it since, it moved from California to Central Oregon to Western Montana back to California then to Phoenix Arizona for school and back to California where I've settled with my family. I've promised the '55 to my oldest son Troy Jr., He can't wait. I wanted to paint it the original colors, Neptune Green and Shoreline Beige but he's color blind to green so it's Grabber Blue and Beige or White.


I've been ordering parts for the build here's a list so far.


Radiator - two row 1 1/4" tube aluminum

Fan Shroud - Steel

Front Disk Brakes - with 2 1/2" drop spindles

Power Brake Booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve.

2 inch Lowering blocks for the rear axle.

Stewart Warner retro green stripe gauges.

Corvette rally wheels 16" x 8"

Steering wheel and adapter kit.

Complete wiring harness.

Complete new Moog suspension rebuild components

Urethane body mount kit.

I've figured out what Ciadella interior kit I'm going to order.

The engine was recently rebuilt and detailed.

New stereo - AM/FM CD with aux and bluetooth

Stainless Mufflers (I will replace whole system with stainless)


When Dad bought it for me 1972

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Me at 16 detailing engine compartment

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Fresh out of paint

[carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)]

good read, cool build. looks like a family heirloom in the making.

[Troy]

Here's a few pics of my rebuilt 350. I was laying on the couch one day and my son Troy Jr. came in and threw a gasket set at me and said lets get that piece on S@$T running get off your a$$. So we tore it down rebuilt what needed rebuilt and put it in and took it to it's first car show!!!

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9831&d=1563060079

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9830&d=1563060057


My new wheels!!

http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9833&d=1563061132

[WagonCrazy]

lets get that piece on S@$T running get off your a$$.

Now THAT'S motivation!

Glad to see you got it running again. Keep at it Troy...life is short.

Have fun.

[567chevys]

Nice to have a member post his Build here on the site ,

Looks like fun


Thanks Sid

[Troy]

Well... I've almost finished swapping my garage around so things should start (slowly) in the next 2-3 weeks. I did do the first bit of work on my Chevy, I removed the trailer hitch my pops made for it in the early '70's.

Here's the hitch


I found these while cleaning, I got them in the early '70's, my grama was the local Avon lady in Brownsburg Indiana. Also they are the same color as my '55 originally was??:)

[BamaNomad]

I love the original color (green and beige)... Are you going with that scheme? or a custom color?

[royk]

I have one of those avon bottles that my grandmother gave me when they came out.

[Troy]

I love the original color (green and beige)... Are you going with that scheme? or a custom color?

Bama, I wanted to stick w/ original colors but spaying metallic paint scares me, also my oldest son who will inherit it is color blind to green:???: I'm leaning toward Grabber Blue & White my second choice is Hugger Orange & White. We'll see how it goes.

ps sorry I couldn't flip the pictures for some reason.

[BamaNomad]

The metallics in the '55 colors were very fine metallics... which I don't think would cause you much problem at all, and if you are afraid of spraying metallics in a single stage, then try it with two stage (base / clear), which everyone says is best for metallics. If you don't want to spray it the original green, there are *other* great non-metallic colors available in the '55 chevy pallette... :)

[Troy]

OK nothing new to report but I'm wondering why my images are not showing up, I don't know if I put them in correctly can anyone help?

The next thing is...

While I'm working on my '55 I'm going to ask questions for things I don't know.

1. As I'm working though stripping paint off of body parts and panels I plan on painting them with 2K epoxy primer. I've read that after ~7 days the primer is unable to make a chemical adhesion to new paints, primers, and fillers. I read that it requires sanding to add teeth to it. Is this true.

2. How long does the 2K last ie does it start to rust or degrade over time.

3. Do you do body work (filler) over the 2K primer?

[Tabasco]

I had problems posting pics here. Then I resized them to a smaller size and they work just fine now.

I thought 2k primer and epoxy primer were two different things. I am not familiar with "2k epoxy primer".

I use SPI epoxy primer on bare metal. It keeps the metal from rusting. During the first week you can put body filler, 2k primer and more epoxy over it. After one week you need to sand it before putting anything over it.

My understanding is that 2k primer does not prevent rust and you can not do body filler over it. That is why I put epoxy primer over bare metal first.

SPI website has a lot of info and has helped me a lot. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

[chevynut]

"2K" refers to any 2-part primer, including urethanes and epoxies. So epoxy primer is "2K".

[Troy]

Thank you guy's oops I'm in California... Thank You persons!!!:D

Also I'm unable to edit my posts after a reply has been made, is there a secret way to do it?

[BamaNomad]

Go back to YOUR post; you can edit it, but of course not the responses that follow after...

[chevynut]

Here's something that may be useful.....

https://www.eastwood.com/1k-coating-vs-2k-coatings

[Troy]

Go back to YOUR post; you can edit it, but of course not the responses that follow after...

BamaNomad, for some reason there is no edit button on my posts with pics, that's why I was asking.

[chevynut]

Pretty sure the ability to edit a post goes away after 24 hours or so.

[BamaNomad]

Pretty sure the ability to edit a post goes away after 24 hours or so.

CN is correct that it goes away after some time; I have the edit button on posts I made earlier today, but do not have it for posts several days ago...

[Tabasco]

"2K" refers to any 2-part primer, including urethanes and epoxies. So epoxy primer is "2K".

Thanks. Most of the cars I did in the past I used lacquer primer surfacer. This car I am working on is the first I have used 2k primer. I was just going on how things were worded on the SPI price list. Thanks for correcting me.

But I am pretty sure that what I said about epoxy primer is correct.

[BamaNomad]

Tabasco, Yes what you said about Epoxy primer is correct (ie. you can do bodywork/smooothing with filler, etc) over it.

ALL Epoxy paints that I've seen or used are two part (2-K if you prefer that term), but I like calling two part paints as two part paints because it's more clear what one means, meaning that you add an activator, catalyst, or 'hardener' which speeds up drying and makes the paint more durable.

Urethane paints are two part paints but are not epoxy paints; Urethane paints use an 'activator' (or hardener if you will).

One can even add an urethane activator/hardener to 'straight enamel' paints which will also make that paint more durable.

[chevynut]

meaning that you add an activator, catalyst, or 'hardener' which speeds up drying and makes the paint more durable.

The hardeners, catalysts, activators, etc. used for 2K paints/primers do not speed drying. They cause or enhance a chemical reaction with the paint that causes the molecules to cross-link making it more durable. In fact, to be a "2K paint" there must be a chemical reaction, not just changing the paint in some way like adding thinner, etc. The urethane basecoat in BC/CC is typically not 2K but you can add a hardener if you want to. The clearcoat is 2K urethane.


Urethane paints are two part paints but are not epoxy paints; Urethane paints use an 'activator' (or hardener if you will).

Urethane is a different polymer than epoxy and requires a different activator. What happens with epoxies is the same thing that happens with urethanes, but different chemicals are used to cause the molecular cross-linking.

It's similar to plastics. Thermoset plastics harden by chemically cross-linking the molecules and the material can't be melted down and re-used. A thermoplastic can be ground up and re-used since there is no chemical reaction during manufacture of the part.

[Rick_L]

If you add catalyst to the old school acrylic enamel paint, it actually slows drying by quite a lot. And that crap didn't dry very fast to start with.

Fortunately that's not an option any more if you want an OEM color. I guess you could add it to whatever colors Rustoleum or similar products come in.

With 2k paint or primer, the catalyst is required if you ever want it to dry. You don't just shoot it without catalyst.

Modern urethane with catalyst dries to the touch almost as quickly as old school lacquer.

The catalyst for epoxy primer is not heavily laden with isocyanates (like the urethane paint) - but that doesn't mean you should spray it without proper PPE protection/procedures.

[Troy]

Hello All,

Not much done yet, still trying to finish up my garage. I just finished putting my blast cabinet together and adding updates, sealed all joints, added foot pedal and new quality nozzle. Just a few things left to do in the garage. As I said in an earlier post I have some questions that I'm not 100% sure of.

1. I'm putting in side mounts for the engine and a new transmission cross member. I haven't measure where the engine is. Question is... is the crank center line centered between the frame rails or is there some offset one way or another? Same with the out put shaft of the tranny?

2. Now that my Blast cabinet is done, can anyone give me some input on what blast media do you use and what's good for different materials?

Thanks for your input!!! More to come!!!

[BamaNomad]

I use glass bead for everything but mostly because that's what I have in my cabinet and I'm too lazy to swap it out.. :) I have some walnut shells that I want to try... sometime.. :)

[Troy]

Well All,

Getting ready to start soon!! My plan is to start restoring and updating component systems like rear end/suspension, front end/suspension, then pull the frame and restore and update it. Then to cleanup the under carriage and set the body back on. I'm not doing a restoration or a total custom just a fun driver. I don't want to blow it apart because I don't know if I'll ever get it back together. I've decided on Toyota Voodoo Blue for the main body w/ white on the trunk and roof. The interior is going to be mostly black probably a Ciadella kit installed by myself.

I have a few questions for the knowledgeable. I looked at SPI's website and they don't mix base coats, so who would you go to, to get your paints mixed? Is something like Toyota Voodoo Blue copy righted and Joe blow can't get it or have it mixed? I'm sure I'll have more questions and I'll ask them as they come up!!!

[Rick_L]

Most any automotive paint store should be able to mix the Toyota color in whatever brand of base coat they sell (PPG, Axalta, Glasurit, Martin Senour, etc. Ask them if they can make you a spray out sample to verify the color. Spray it out on a sample card they can provide. You could even clear the sample.

[Troy]

Well here's my first SMALL project, I stripped painted and resealed my new differential, not much but this Covid 19 and the weather have really put a damper on my progress! Fortunately for me my work is allowing everyone that can to work from home. So that's good! Anyway here's my rear.

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I don't know what I'm doing wrong in the posting pics, anyone got input for me?

[Rick_L]

Looks pretty slick. What paint did you use on the 3rd member housing?

[Troy]

Thanks Rick, it's Dupli-Color Engine enamel, DE1651 Cast Iron.

[markm]

Thanks Rick, it's Dupli-Color Engine enamel, DE1651 Cast Iron.

That is great stuff I use it for a base coat for Chevy orange which does not cover well.

[Troy]

Well... the rear end is out!!!!

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[Troy]

Well I've got my rear end torn down and have painted and detailed parts! I'm replacing all the wear parts so it's all new. One question, when you install the bearing retaining rings is it best to press them on or heat shrink them on?

[Rick_L]

Pressing them on works fine. You're going to have to press the bearings on anyway, so it's a simple next step to press on the rings.

[Troy]

Well I've got my rear end assembled, I still have to assemble the brakes and the springs but this part is done. I ended up pounding the bearings on with a tube that was the perfect size. I had one problem!!! When I was done I noticed the tiny spring that puts pressure on the outer seal of the bearing (it has an inner seal too) fell off and I was unable to get it back on!!! I'm hoping the inner seal keeps the lube in the rear end and the outer seal keeps the lube in the bearing. Any way If it leaks I'll have to replace them down the line at $200 for the pair:( Anyway enjoy!!!


The Rear End partially assembled
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Backing Plate
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Backing Plate
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Diff
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[Rustaddict]

You did a great job detailing your rear end. That looks good.

[Troy]

Thanks Rustaddict! It only took a month of cleaning, wire brushing, sand blasting, painting and waiting for parts to show up!!

[Belair-o]

Purty! Very nicely restored and detailed!

[Custer55]

Nice job on the rear end. Looking good!!

[Troy]

Hey Everyone,

Well I got my rear end installed, I replaced everything, trans yoke, u-joints, diff, axle bearing and seals, new hard and soft brake lines brakes, and all new hardware, shocks, bushings. Next... front end body, suspension, adding engine side mounts, trans mount, power disk brakes, and more. Can't wait!!!! Starting tomorrow!!!

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[Belair-o]

Troy,
Looking good! Lots of progress - best of luck on the startup!
Regards, Doug

[Troy]

Why in the world am I having problems uploading pic to this thread? Can someone help me with the procedure?

[BamaNomad]

Troy? Haven't you posted photos here before ? Are you using a cell phone camera and posting from your cell phone? (if so I can't be much help). cell phone screens are TOO SMALL for my eyes to see much, so I transfer the images to my computer and post from it. I made a detailed post a couple of days ago for helping other new folks, you might look for that post?

[Troy]

Bama, yes I have but every time it's a pain in the butt!!! I down load them from my phone to my computer then try to upload them to the site. Was your post just about uploading pics or was it in another subject post? I couldn't find it!!:(

[567chevys]

Hello Troy


See if this will work for you
Sid

How do I attach a file to a post?

To attach a file to your post, you need to be using the main 'New Post' or 'New Thread' page and not 'Quick Reply'. To use the main 'New Post' page, click the 'Post Reply' button in the relevant thread.

On this page, below the message box, you will find a button labelled 'Manage Attachments'. Clicking this button will open a new window for uploading attachments. You can upload an attachment either from your computer or from another URL by using the appropriate box on this page. Alternatively you can click the Attachment Icon to open this page.

To upload a file from your computer, click the 'Browse' button and locate the file. To upload a file from another URL, enter the full URL for the file in the second box on this page. Once you have completed one of the boxes, click 'Upload'.

Once the upload is completed the file name will appear below the input boxes in this window. You can then close the window to return to the new post screen.

What files types can I use? How large can attachments be?

In the attachment window you will find a list of the allowed file types and their maximum sizes. Files that are larger than these sizes will be rejected. There may also be an overall quota limit to the number of attachments you can post to the board.

How do I add an image to a post?

If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.

To include an image that is not uploaded as an attachment and is located on another website, you can do so by copying the full URL to the image, (not the page on which the image is located), and either pressing the 'Insert Image' icon or by typing before the URL and after it, ensuring that you do not have any spaces before or after the URL of the image. You can insert photos from your albums (?) in this way too.

[Troy]

Thank You Sid,

I cut and pasted this to an email to myself and now I can go to it when ever I need help!!! Plus I just attached a photo to a reply and it WORKED!!!!!

[Troy]

Here's the state of my '55 right now!! I'm working on the new side motor mounts and the power brake system.

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I'm wondering if anyone here can show me some pictures of how you routed your brake lines, this would really help me out!! Thanks

[Slim57]

Hi Troy. Nothing worthwhile to add regarding brake lines. Just to say nice progress. Getting a lot accomplished out of small space. Be great to she ol girl running again soon.

[BamaNomad]

Troy, unless you have some reason not to, I'd suggest routing the brake lines the same way that the factory did... in fact, attempting to duplicate the factory approach is generally a great idea unless you are certain you can Improve on it... ;)

[Troy]

Yeah Bama, that's the plan I was wondering what it looks like to run the two lines from the master cylinder down the the frame. That's what I want to see.

[markm]

My 56 still has the oem steel 1/4 inch line feeding rear wheels only. I have plugs at each ft wheel. I added single 3/16 to each ft wheel. Just like Gm did on later models. Prop valve under master just like later cars. You cannot out trick the factory sometimes.

[Troy]

One other question, I bought this system new from a guy who was upgrading to big four wheel brakes. I didn't get any instructions and I haven't been able to find any info online. My question is which outlet is for the rear drums and which is for the front drums? If you need to see my set-up see the last picture!! Thanks.

[BamaNomad]

That photo is too small (too far away) to see any detail on your brake MC/booster/lines arrangement. Do you know what parts are/were included with that kit? I have some instructions that I got with a kit that I could send you if you like?

IIRC generally the front reservoir is for the front brakes and the rear reservoir for the rears... If you are staying with drums all the way around and only converting to the dual MC, then all you need is the MC and the lines. If you want to put a differential switch in (to detect a failure in one of the front/rear systems, then that can be plumbed in right under the MC with it's two outputs going to the front/rear brakes. It will also have an electrical output to trigger a BRAKE or ERROR light on your dash. For the rear brakes, just do what the factory did, take the single line down the passenger frame rail and then a flex hose to get to the differential T, and then from the T to the left and right sides. You have a bracket to hold the T on the diff.
The front output can be taken down to the left front wheel and just before you get there for the flex hose, T off to the right hand side front wheel.

[Troy]

Bama,

That would be great to have those instructions. Do you have a digital copy, if not don't worry about it!! Thanks!!

[BamaNomad]

I'm pretty sure I do have a digital copy Troy.. PM me or post your email addy and I'll send it to you..!

[Troy]

Done, Thanks!

[BamaNomad]

I sent you a couple of files and a few photos. The instructions were not as detailed as I recalled, so maybe I have another that was in print? If yuo need more help, maybe I can find it and scan the best pages?

[Troy]

Hmmm I didn't get them!

[BamaNomad]

Check your spam folder...

Troy,

Is the below your email address?

Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 9:01 PM
To: 't.a.stevens@comcast.net'
Subject: Disk brake install instructions...

Troy,

Attached is a couple of sets of instructions I obtained from ABS power brakes, who provided the brake kit I used. I think I also got some instructions from
AutoCity (who I actually bought the kit from)… ABS Power provided the kit to AutoCity..

If you are still concerned about plumbing from the MC or valve to the front/rear brakes, let me know and I'll send you more photos or instructions.

Gary

[Troy]

Thank Bama got it!!! I didn't know you were spam I thought maybe BBQ!!! :D

[BamaNomad]

Barbecued SPAM can be pretty good... :)

[Troy]

Hello All,

Still working on my '55 but I have a question. I'm up and flaring my brake lines, I have my front lines don't and they are 3/16 OD. I was going to pick up the tube to couple the master cylinder to the existing rear lines, some one mentioned to run 1/4" OD lines but the existing line is 3/16" OD. Does this sound right and will it work fine? THanks for the input!!!

[Rick_L]

You can use either 3/16" or 1/4" anywhere in the brake system, doesn't matter for function. So if the fittings or ports you are connecting to are 3/16", stick with that. Avoids searching for adapter fittings.

[markm]

My 67 Camaro, 74 Z28 , 72 Cheyanne Super, 85 Cutlass, 75 Camaro, 87 GMC 4x4 and 72 K/5 Blazer all have 1/4 brake line to rear axle and 3/16 to each front wheel . That is how I decided what to do.

[55Jim]

Barbecued SPAM can be pretty good... :)

DAMN right it is!

[Troy]

Got my new brake lines bent up and installed!!! What a pain in the butt!!!

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[Rustaddict]

Nice looking job

[BamaNomad]

Nice job Troy! :) very neat...

[Troy]

Thanks guy's I'm doing all of the hardware first then when I get the whole thing back together I'll pull out the frame and make it look good then reassemble it and maybe even remake some of the hardware!!

[Troy]

Hey I have a question... When I first got my '55 way back in 1972 it had a Borg-Warner T10, I'm sure it was added and that it originally came with a Powerglide and I changed to a TH400. How can I tell if my steering column was a auto or a manual column? Thanks.

[Troy]

I have a question, this weekend I'm planning on putting my engine and transmission back in so I can mount my new tranny cross member. Am I right in thinking that the axis center line of the engine/transmission should be parallel to the pinion shaft of the differential in the car's static position? If not what should it be? Thanks!!

[Rick_L]

Yes the engine/transmission shaft centerline should be parallel to the pinion. At ride height and with the axle torque loaded in the manner the car will be primarily driven. Expect the pinion to come up slightly under normal driving. And a lot if racing. Less if you have some kind of traction bar.

A better way to do it would be to put the engine/transmission shaft centerline down 4° front to back, which is the factory position. This gives you nice clearance to the floor and transmission hump for everything but the biggest transmissions. Then check the pinion angle at the axle later on when the car is more complete. If it's a stock axle you shouldn't have to change anything.

[Troy]

Thanks Rick,

When my dad built the first cross member he put the trans out put in the same position so when I took it out this time I measured so I'll just put it back where it came from.

[Rick_L]

That only works if the engine hasn't been moved forward and the transmission is the same length as previously. When your dad did it, and again this time. I suggest you measure if any doubt.

Did you know that most smart phones have a capability to be a digital level? Or you can purchase one pretty cheap these days.

[Troy]

Well I Put the engine and transmission in and the the carb mounting surface is up in the front about 3/4 degree. I can't really call it done as I have the trunk full of parts and the whole front end is off. Fortunately the transmission mount has the capability to be shimmed so I'm pretty happy with everything. One good thing is that the new engine mounts moved the engine forward about 1/4" so now the transmission dip stick doesn't hit the firewall!!!

[Belair-o]

Hi Troy,
Dude! That alone makes the engine and trans swap worth while!
Sorry, I couldn't help myself (but should have).
Good job! Doug

[57fleetside]

Looks like it is coming along good. Nice detail on the parts you have done. Steve

[Troy]

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Does anyone recognize this transmission kick down switch? My dad got it for me when we put in the TH400, I think it's from a Cadillac because that's where he worked most of his life. Now he's old and can't remember. Thanks for any help!!

[Troy]

Hello Everyone,

I stripped out my wiring harness, the front seat, and the carpet and this is what I found!!! Yikes, fortunately it's just the front pans. The rest is solid. My question is... who makes the best replacement floor pans? Also I would like to replace the whole front section if possible. The pans and the hump because it has the old cutouts when the car had a 4 speed. Thanks for your help!!

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[Troy]

Well I got the passenger front floor pan out, still have a little work to trim the floor to match the new pans. I bought the pans from Danchuck and I'm really pleased with them!! It took me a few hours to do it as my tools didn't work as good as I wanted and I wanted to be careful not to damage the original metal. I did however catch the car on fire...I used a grinder for one part and I looked up and the jute dash pad was smoldering!!! I ripped it out and threw it out on the drive way. If I feel good and ready to go I think I may try to get the new one fit in then I can get my son Troy Jr. to weld it in!! Anyway you all have a MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

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[BamaNomad]

What kind of restoration would it be if you didn't catch 'something on fire'??? :) Merry Christmas to you Troy!~ and to all the folks here at TriFive Chevys!~

[Troy]

Hey Guy's I did some more cutting to fit the floor pan. I found that the body support hole shown in the picture has no mount on both this side and the drivers side. It looks like it goes to the tranny mounting ears. It looks like there's never been any. Is this normal? I plan on removing the tranny ears so I'm not planning on putting mounts in there. What do you experts think?

ps what kind of rust encapsulant do you like to use??

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[Troy]

Does anyone have an answer regarding this body mount?:)

[Rick_L]

Only a convertible has a body mount there. When I cut the bellhousing mount brackets off, I left a stub there that has a matching hole to the one in the floor. I use a line up bar through those holes as a quick way to align the floor and the frame. It's been handy since I've had the body off the frame a couple of times for mock up.

[Troy]

Thanks Rick,

That's what I needed to know. I'm waiting until I have the body off of the frame before I cut off the brackets!!!

[Troy]

Hello Everyone,

I'm getting ready to weld in the foot well floor pans. I have a question, what kind of spacing between spot welds do you use? My plan is to put a hole through one part then weld through it to the other part. Thanks for any help!!

[Rick_L]

Use a similar spacing as what the factory used on their spot welds. 2-1/2" to 3" is a good start. Make the through holes big enough but not too big. Around 3/8" is a good start. You want to be able to weld around the circumference of the hole, not just start welding in the center of the hole to fill it. Practice on some scrap to determine the hole size and whether you're getting good penetration.

[Troy]

Thank you Rick I appreciate your help!!!

[Troy]

Hello All,

I got my right front foot well sized and ready to weld. I have a question... what and where do I get the "seam sealer" that goes in the joint at the front? Thanks.

[markm]

Anyone ever heard of using Liquid Nails as seam sealer, cost a fraction of the 3M stuff.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Anyone ever heard of using Liquid Nails as seam sealer, cost a fraction of the 3M stuff.
No, but I'm going to try this advertised on TV sealer I picked up at Menards for like $12.
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[markm]

I got the tip from a guy who has painted more show cars that anyone else in my part of the world. I used it with great results on a 66 Mustang floor pan replacement.

[Troy]

Well my son and I got my passenger front floor pan welded in, I justneed to clean up the welds. It took 2+ hours. About mid night I woke up and couldn't open my eyes and they were on fire and felt like sand was in them! I couldn't see!!! It took over 12 hours for me to open my eyes and be able to see!!! One thing that makes me feel STUPID was my wife came out to watch and I told her not to look at the light!! Well the other thing that made me feel STUPID was I didn't wear a helmet or googles the whole 2+ hours. I'm finally getting back to normal after two days!!! STUPID STUPID STUPID!!!!!:o

[Troy]

Hello Long time no post!!! Well I haven't done much to my '55 but some minor progress. As I stated above I got the passenger foot well in and I finally got the drivers foot well out and hope to get it welded in soon!!! I do have a question... in the firewall pic there's a hole right next to the steering column clamp, if I remember right that was for the clutch linkage when I had a four speed. Is that correct? I plan on welding it shut. Anyway I hope I get more done soon.

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[chasracer]

Wow - it's interesting how all of these cars seem to rust about the same. I feel like I'm looking at pictures of mine a few weeks back.

[Troy]

Hello All,

I haven't done a lot to my '55 since the last post. With all of the meds I take I have no energy to do anything!!!:???: Anyway my son (who just had his first son) came down a bit ago and welded in the drivers floor pan, all that's left is the 8" x 8" hole where the shifter was and I'm going to try to do it myself. I have torn the whole front suspension off and have been working on blasting and painting all of the components. Once that's done next is to lift the body and roll out the frame. Hopefully this will happen before mid summer. Have a good one!!!

[markm]

8x8 for a shifter, kind of big, I think the same guy installed mine. At least he did not use a chainsaw or jackhammer like the guy on my 67 Camaro.

[Troy]

Yeah it's big but I did that to get a nice square even hole. It had several pieces scab welded in and I wanted it clean.

[Troy]

Well I guess I should do an update on my "build" I've finally got all of my suspension completed!!! Now I just need to finish the floor, then pull the frame. Probably a long while for that process!!

12645

[TrifiveRichard]

A-arms are looking great!

[BamaNomad]

Did you install the ball joints correctly in your lower control arms??

[markm]

Lower joints appear to be upside down

[Rick_L]

???? What makes you think that?

[Troy]

Nope that's how they go, that's the only way they'll fit! that lil tit on the top it the zirk fitting!

[BamaNomad]

The threaded portion of the BallJoint that engages with the spindle should be pointed UP on the lower control arm... Or maybe it's been too long since I did one of these...? :)

[markm]

You are correct on a later model GM car, but I remember now these cars are different. It has been a while since I screwed with my a-arms and some of this is getting fuzzy.

[Rick_L]

Both upper and lower ball joint pins point down on a 55-57.

[Troy]

Yep you two had me worried, so I went out and looked and was relieved when I saw it!!! Also it's the only way to mount the lower ball joint due to the two screws that come in from the sides.

[BamaNomad]

Troy, your lower ball joints are installed correctly.. The last A arms I did was on a later 60's model GM and they point IN, but I took a look at a trifive setup today to check and yours are correct... Sorry if my comment upset you~

[Troy]

Hey Bama, I'm not upset!! Thanks for the input though!!

[Troy]

Hello Everyone,

I just received the new carpet for my '55, I was wondering if it has to be "glued" to the floor or does it just float and get held down by the seats and the sill plates?

I also ordered the Ciadella seat covers and all of the door panels. I'm having them done as the original '55 Belair 2 door hard top style, but they're going to be in black vinyl and the '56 black cloth. The door panels will be all black. I don't need them right now but I had some extra money so I went for it!!! Ciadella is a busy shop, it's going to be 4 months until they're done!! I cant wait!!!

12699

[BamaNomad]

If the carpet is 'warm' (from lying in the sun for a few?) it should LIE down on your floor properly. If it doesn't then a little 3M spray adhesive in the offending areas will help it, but I would not overdo that...

[Chiknskyn]

Thanks for the pic Troy, their stuff looks amazing. I am now waiting on a quote... hehe

[Troy]

Hello Again,

One other thing, my son finally got all of the floor pans and shifter hole patch done, so now I have to figure out how to get the body off the frame with what tools I have! Wish me luck!!!:eek:

[BamaNomad]

Hello Again,

One other thing, my son finally got all of the floor pans and shifter hole patch done, so now I have to figure out how to get the body off the frame with what tools I have! Wish me luck!!!:eek:

Something that will help a lot, is to REMOVE everything that is removable from the body (including interior, glass, etc) in order to lighten the body. I've removed/reinstalled bodies from frames a few times by myself using only a floor jack - using the jack under the floor of the body and spreading the load with a large board (a length of 2x12 will work ) but the floor should be strong to allow that.

Other keys: Get the body elevated above the frame as far as possible to slip a 4x4 or landscape timber between body and frame and support the timber on each eng on supports; I've used a stack of 2 or 3 concrete blocks with a 2x8 board on top. You will need such a timber support on each end of the body. Once the body is raised as high as you can get it above the frame, then remove the tires/wheels to lower the frame before sliding it out. The frame will slide out more easily from the rear of the body than the front,so think about that when you are planning the task.

I also helped a friend take a '67 Corvette Coupe off it's frame (and all the glass/interior/etc was still installed). Despite my reservations on doing it that way, six of us lifted the body up off the frame. I had perhaps the worst position at the rear wheel well and I thought I was going to die before we walked it over to a support he had set up. and of course, AFTER we had lifted it, he discovered he hadn't disconnected the shifter so we had to hold it even longer! If it hadn't been too nice a car, I'm pretty sure I'd have dropped it at that point. My back took months to recover!

[Troy]

Thanks Bama!!!!

[Troy]

Yippe, I got my Ciadella seat covers today, the side panels are still in production!!! I can't wait to get them. I had them build them as '55 2 door hard top (what my car is) using '56 black vinyl and black cloth! I LOVE THEM!!!!

12907

[Troy]

I still can't stop smiling!!! I got the door cards for my '55 and I'm in love with them!!! Please don't tell my wife!!:)

[BamaNomad]

No photos??? ;)

[Troy]

Here's one of the door panels from Ciadella Interiors!!! I can't wait to get the interior installed!!!!

12947

[BamaNomad]

Looks good Troy, but that's what I'd expect from Ciadella's.. :)

Seems to be sewn in the '55 BelAir design but in a solid color?

Gary

[Troy]

Thanks BAMA,

Yes it is '55 Belair but I asked for a complete black interior, they used '56 Belair black cloth on the seats too.

[Troy]

Hello All,

Moving along slowly not much done!! I know I asked this before but I can't find the answer, so I'm asking again. Which power steering box is the best, the 600series or the 500 series? Thanks!!

[Rick_L]

They are essentially the same thing in terms of function and dimensions.

The Borgeson 600 box is a modified OEM box from an early 2000's Tahoe or similar vehicle. A new lower housing is welded to the original housing and a new output shaft installed. It has a double D input shaft.

The CPP 500 box is an all new steering box made in China by a supplier that makes OEM boxes for some brands. One piece housing and splined input shaft.

[BamaNomad]

Good response Rick. Have you used both those boxes? Which one are yuo using in your car?

[Rick_L]

I have a CPP500 box for mine. I helped a friend with a Borgeson.

[Troy]

Well I'm now retired so I hope I can get my '55 back on the road some day!!! I just ordered the foam for my seats ($931.00) ouch and some other parts as well. I'm planning on pulling the frame out from under the body soon so I can get it fixed up and either painted or powder coated! I can't wait for it to drive!!! :)

[busterwivell]

Welcome to retirement, Troy!

[chevynut]

I'm planning on pulling the frame out from under the body soon so I can get it fixed up and either painted or powder coated! I can't wait for it to drive!!! :)

And so it begins. :p:D

Congrats on your retirement! I thought after I retired I'd have lots of time to work on my car. Problem is I continued to build frames until last year, and taking care of properties all over the country takes time.

[Rustaddict]

Have you stopped building frames permanately ?
And so it begins. :p:D

Congrats on your retirement! I thought after I retired I'd have lots of time to work on my car. Problem is I continued to build frames until last year, and taking care of properties all over the country takes time.

[chevynut]

Have you stopped building frames permanately ?

Yes, I shut down my business website at the beginning of 2022 and finished up the last two frame projects. We built 113 total projects in the time I ran the part-time business. I had 3-4 guys interested in buying the business from me but I haven't pursued it any further. One guy was the last one we built a frame for and he came and watched the build for a day. I showed him all the jigs, patterns, etc. and I was supposed to give him a price but never followed through because I got too busy and he never pushed for more info. I still have 4-5 frames, a bunch of C4 suspensions, some laser cut parts, and all the jigs, setup suspension parts, patterns and CAD files. I may still advertize it for sale on a Tri5 forum like FB. It's a great money-making part-time business but with my own car and taking care of two homes 800 miles apart it just got to be too much and I really don't need the money.

[55 Rescue Dog]

I've always wanted to read something about one of your chassis on the road but have never been able to find anything.

[chevynut]

I've always wanted to read something about one of your chassis on the road but have never been able to find anything.

I've always wanted to find someone that says you're not an ass, but still haven't found anyone who says that.

There's dozens of cars with my frames and clips out there, all over the country and even in NZ. One customer from NJ contacted me and said he was amazed at how his 57 performs, and it "drives like a slot car". He teaches race car driving.....sorry he didn't call you too. Call Wade Linger and Bruce Bourgoin and ask them, dumphuk.

13583

13584

[55 Rescue Dog]

Have you ever driven any cars with your frame under it? That is one of the reasons why I didn't want one, including how you have acted towards me and many others over the years Mr. nice guy. Your design and attitude talked me right into cancelling my order and giving up the deposit, which worked out great going with a different builder with a better design for less money.

[WagonCrazy]

13585

Mine's on the road...
and it too drives like a slot car :)

[chevynut]

Have you ever driven any cars with your frame under it? That is one of the reasons why I didn't want one, including how you have acted towards me and many others over the years Mr. nice guy. Your design and attitude talked me right into cancelling my order and giving up the deposit, which worked out great going with a different builder with a better design for less money.

Yes I have. As is typical of your ongoing crap, you have taken Tony's thread off-topic and can't keep your mouth shut. I simply answered a question from Rustaddict about shutting down my business and you have to stick your nose into it as usual. I don't know why Sid doesn't ban you again for the third time....you're like a bratty little child who doesn't learn.

For the record, I offered to give you contact information for the guys who were driving their cars when we discussed your frame build, but instead you started bashing my frames and everything about C4 suspensions and were claiming they were "outdated" and spewed your ongoing bullshit every chance you got. Anyone can search on your posts from years ago and see the crap you were posting about me, my frames, my car, and my business back then and even today. It's been going on since early 2016.

After answering dozens of your questions in e-mail and talking to you on the phone, you signed the contract and paid your non-refundable deposit which was clearly stated as non-refundable in the contract. You're the ONLY guy I haven't refunded his deposit for, because of your constant bashing of me, my frames and my car from Day One. You gave no reason for cancelling your order other than you changed your mind. The frame you bought is inferior in design, and cost you more than I quoted you. I have countered all your clueless bashing with engineering explanations and calculations to the point that I get tired of dealing with your ignorance. I've built far more tri5 conversion projects than the guy who built your frame, and I've met and talked to him. On top of everything else, you prove yourself to be a liar.

[chevynut]

Mine's on the road...
and it too drives like a slot car :)

Thanks Paul. Here's a pic I have of your frame which he claims is inferior to his.....LOL!

13587


I'm so sick of this bullshit from this moron RD. I don't get feedback from all my customers when they're driving their cars, and I doubt any frame builder does. I built these frames over many years and have lost contact with some customers. i know some have abandoned their projects and sold them.

Here's another one that's driveable which was one of the last ones I built:

13586


Tony, sorry for cluttering up your build page. I won't post here anymore about my frames, but I won't bet that RD won't. :D

[Troy]

No problem, I understand!! Oh and it's Troy!!!:D

[Troy]

Well, I've been working on small projects, painting and repairing small part on my '55!! I FINALLY got the frame out, so I can cut off some things, weld up some things, and then off to powder coat shop!!! I can't understand the price difference between the two local shops!!! The one down the street a few miles away wants $5200.00 to powder coat it, another shop that I've used to powder coat many go karts and other misc. stuff wants $1100.00. Why such a difference? Anyway the frame powder coated should get me moving along!!!:) Oh and one more thing I spent two plus hours scraping off most of the old undercoating!!!


13629

[Troy]

Howdy All,

I'm trying to figure out if there's a process for placing the body back on the chassis, I would like to know if there's a way to go about shimming the body on the mounts. Do I just set the body on the mounts and then shim up the ones that don't touch the body? I there some particular mounts to start with and then add the rest? I really could use some help with it, thanks!!

[BamaNomad]

Troy,

Have you made all the mods you plan to your frame before having it powder coated? Including trial/test fitting any modified parts? you should definitely do that as it *sucks* when you have to cut on or weld on a newly powder coated frame!!

For mounting the body again, I'd suggest following the basic instructions: 1) place a frame cushion pad and shim on each location, 2) lower the body down til it hits the cushions, 3) add additional shims where the body isn't sitting on the frame, go on from there..

[WagonCrazy]

I too would do it as Bama is suggesting. There's a bit of play in these frames, so there may be some shimming needed here and there.

[chevynut]

As you probably know, the frame will have to be completely sandblasted and cleaned before powdercoating. I used to pay $250-350 to have frames sandblasted after I converted them for the C4 suspensions but the last one was 4-5 years ago. I just had my entry gate quoted and it was $585 to sandblast and $885 to powdercoat it and all the parts (posts, etc.). I think my gate is a lot more work than a frame.

And like Bama said, make sure you have all the welding you want to do done before you do the powdercoating. One thing I don't like about powdercoating is that these frames typically have dents after 65+ years on the road and they have factory defects. You can't fill dents. Factory defects may not matter to you. You can hide some of it if you use a low-gloss or textured powdercoat. There's a zillion colors and textures available.

As far as setting the body back on I would just put it on and look at the mounts to see if they all touch or are close. Then, put all the bolts in and tighten them. The frame probably flexes a lot more than the body does. You may need to shim the body to align the doors or something else, but imo I wouldn't worry about the shimming until you see how everything fits with the mounts torqued down first.

[WagonCrazy]

The frame probably flexes a lot more than the body does.

Yes it does. Mine still flexes when passing over uneven driveways.

[Troy]

Thanks for you guys help!!! I starting today with the cutting off of things and welding up some 1" x 3" holes my dad cut in the bottom of the frame for the tranny mount he made. I'm going to wire brush it up to clean it up so the powder coater doesn't have as much work. I'm not looking for a show car frame, just a clean frame for a driver so I'll be happy. Thanks again, and I'll have many more questions down the line!;):)

[Troy]

Yippee!!! I dropped off my frame to the powder coater today!!! Now I have 3+ weeks to get the stuff done prior to putting the frame under the body!!!:D

[WagonCrazy]

Forward progress feels good Troy! Keep at it.

[Troy]

Hey Everyone,

I found this rubber strip on top of my '55 frame when I removed it, I'm pretty sure I found one many many years ago while working on my '55! I looked in my assy manual and it looks like they get glued on to my frame in a few spots. Does anyone know what they are called and what they are for? Thanks for some input!!

13646

[BamaNomad]

It's to prevent the body from rubbing on the frame in the rear 'kickup' area... call it an 'anti squeak' strip?

[Troy]

Thanks Bama!! I haven't been able to find them for sale so I may have to make some!!

[55 Rescue Dog]

You would probably need 4 people in the backseat with a packed heavy trunk driving on a really rough road, like they used to do for the body to make contact with the frame it seems to me. I wouldn't worry about it unless it is a true restoration.

[BamaNomad]

corvette dealers sell similar ones (not exactly the same size, but otherwise the same) for use on early (C1) Corvettes...

Or.. cut some pieces from a tire carcass... OR just clean the ones you have and 'glue' them in place on the frame upright... See the assembly manual for correct placement.

[chevynut]

Does anyone know what they are called and what they are for? Thanks for some input!!

There are a couple of those on Nomads too, right behind the hump. I didn't use them and my body is nowhere near touching the frame. I used urethane body mounts which seem to be a little thicker. I think I have a couple of those if you need them.

[Troy]

Thanks Laszlo and Bama, Yeah I think I'm going to skip them also because I'm using urethane mounts as well! Have a good one!

[WagonCrazy]

I didn't use them on my Nomad either. The original location was under the cargo floor, below a sheet metal brace that extended below the floor and over the left and right frame rails. I think it was for the occassion you might actually load some weight on that cargo floor, causing deflection to transfer to the top of the frame rails. Hence an isolator material to eliminate any squeeks.

[Troy]

Hello All,

I'm in a good mood!!! I've gotten back my powder coated frame and was able to undercoat the bottom of the floor!!!!:D Here's some pictures of it!! Tomorrow the frame goes on and the rear differential maybe to!!!! YIPPPEE!! And one more thing... the undercoating and the paint on the firewall has to go soon so I'll be stripping that stuff off so I can paint it!!
13648

[TrifiveRichard]

Lookin good, Troy. Keep at it!

[busterwivell]

Good progress!

[bigblock]

Looks Nice!!

[MP&C]

Looks good!

[Troy]

Hey Everyone,

I have my frame up and under the body, it's in great alignment and I'm happy!!! It's sitting solid on some of the body mounts but I need to add some shims to some of the mounts, the problem I'm having is I can't find out what I should torque the bolts too. I've looked through my assy manual and found a statement to find it in the shop manual (which came with the car in 1972) but I can't find any info for the torque rate. Does anyone know what the torque rate is? Thanks for your help!!!

[BamaNomad]

You want to just slightly compress the rubber mounts.. Since I'm not remembering the specific torque, I'm guessing around 15-25 ft-lbs.

[Troy]

Thanks Bama, I'm not using rubber mounts, they are Polyurethane so I don't think they will compress much!

[chevynut]

the problem I'm having is I can't find out what I should torque the bolts too. I've looked through my assy manual and found a statement to find it in the shop manual (which came with the car in 1972) but I can't find any info for the torque rate. Does anyone know what the torque rate is? Thanks for your help!!!

23 foot-pounds is the spec for a 3/8-16 grade 5 bolt. Bushings like that are designed so the two washers are compressed onto the center sleeve so you really can't over-torque the mounts. I think the urethane mounts don't give as much as the rubber ones do so you may not bottom on the sleeve. I torqued all mine to 30 ft-lb and used higher grade bolts and SS washers.

[Troy]

Thanks Laszlo!!

[Troy]

I HATE SANDING!!!!!!!!! Man it's taken forever to get just 1/2 of my firewall sanded/striped!!! I'm using a pneumatic angle grinder with 2" diameter sanding discs with either 36 or 60 grit!! Can anyone tell me about a better way to sand/strip the firewall? Thanks for your help!!

13706

[Custer55]

When I stripped the paint off my 39 Ford I used a small propane torch. I heated the paint until it just started to bubble and then used a scraper or wire brush to remove the paint. Not sure if this would be an option for you or not as you have to be careful not to start anything else on fire but it worked well for me and I had no issues with warping any sheet metal. Shouldn't be an issue at all on your firewall.
Brian

[Troy]

Thanks Brian, I might try that!

[WagonCrazy]

gel based paint remover. spread it on, wait an hour, scrape it off.

[BamaNomad]

gel based paint remover. spread it on, wait an hour, scrape it off.

I agree with Paul, with a few caveats.... 1) tape over all seams/cracks so it doesn't get between panels, just sand those areas..
2) after stripping, make sure the stripper is removed and residue neutralized (do it twice, to be sure) before priming/painting...

[Troy]

Thanks Guy's, I got a lot of the other half of the firewall sanded today!!! I'm worried about using paint remover so I don't mess up the new powder coating on the frame. I tried Brian's process it was working on the 1982 Lacquer paint but was very hard to get the factory paint off so I used my angle grinder with flapper discs and it worked!! I'm going to use Brian's process to remove the undercoating on the lower section of the firewall. Anyway here's a picture of the other half progressing on. I still have work but I'm getting there!!!!:)

13709

[Troy]

Hey ya'll, I've pretty much got the fire wall ready for epoxy primer!!! I'm thinking about removing the frame from underneath the body so I don't get any paint on the powder coating! I don't want to remove the rear end so I'm looking at supporting the body on some 4x4's under the rockers crosswise of the body. Has anyone ever supported your body on two 4x4's on jack stands? I'm just wondering if the 4x4's would support the weight! Thanks, and have a good one!!!

[BamaNomad]

Without the front clip, it shouldn't be a problem, but I recommend putting 2x4 s under each rocker to spread out the load then use your 4x4s across them at the front and rear of the rocker. It would be an even better idea to put a couple of 2x4's across at those points and screw them to the 2x4's under the rockers to ensure they don't slip out of place...

[Troy]

Thanks Bama, I appreciate your idea!!!

[Troy]

Hello All,

I've finally got my firewall stripped down, but the weather is too cold and wet to start the painting and priming!!!:???: Anyway I have a question for down the line, my engine is a '75 350 Chevy and I think the cam is possibly going bad so I'm thinking about replacing it. The reason I think the cams going bad is when I rebuilt it I didn't know about the break in procedure and then later I used a synthetic oil on a flat tappet cam. The engine is stock and I've rebuilt it so it's pretty fresh, can anyone tell me what a good cam is that would make it lumpy just a little bit but not like a top fuel cam!! :D

[Troy]

Well it's about to happen!!! I've finally got good weather so I can start painting my fire wall!! Yipee!!! 1st Epoxy primer, 2nd some body working, 3rd primer, 4th Grabber Blue, 5th Clear coat!!! Hope it's done soon!!!:)

[schovil69]

Well it's about to happen!!! I've finally got good weather so I can start painting my fire wall!! Yipee!!! 1st Epoxy primer, 2nd some body working, 3rd primer, 4th Grabber Blue, 5th Clear coat!!! Hope it's done soon!!!:)
Remember the sealer after the primer and prior to paint.

[chevynut]

Remember the sealer after the primer and prior to paint.

Sealer is not really needed depending on the type of primer and the condition of the primer prior to paint. The main purpose of sealer is to provide a uniform color surface for the paint. Most primers can be coated with paint directly. We didn't use a sealer under my Nomad's topcoat. We sprayed white basecoat over the final urethane primer, then sprayed the orange base and clear.

[Troy]

Well I finally got my 55's firewall Epoxy Primer'd, now I've got a bunch of body workin' to do!!! It's not very smooth.:sad: Somehow I'm unable to load a picture!!

[Rick_L]

Sealer is not really needed depending on the type of primer and the condition of the primer prior to paint.

Not only that, but primer is often used as a sealer, usually with a bit of reducer so that it sprays smooth.