Tri-five Power Steering-I Need Educated

[Dualfours]

I admit to total zero experience and knowledge when it comes to power steering for the tri-fives. I am aware of the original generator/PS unit enough to recognize such when I see it but have no experience with that style. At some point I would like to add power steering to my 57 which has an older '64 283 block and no accessory mounting holes on the heads. I am running '70s era Appliance headers and that seems to be an issue over the standard exhaust manifolds. Then with the various options out there it seems to be a real maze to navigate. 605, CCP, rack and pinion, probably more options that I am not familiar with. Would really like to hear from the '' been there, done that'' crowd as to which would be my best option. Looking more for a quality unit, drive-ability and fit over price

[markm]

No need to modify much I run a left front motor mount that doubles as a power steering bracket. A 605 box is a POS a 500 box from CPP is much better.

[Dualfours]

I'm also currently running the font motor mounts. Seems as if I read either here or on the "other" board that CCP has or had some issues with the pitman arm I believe? Is that still correct or has it been resolved and no longer a problem? As I mentioned, I know just enough about Tri-five power steering options to be dangerous, LOL.

[markm]

The 500 box works with your original manual steer pitman arm, do not buy theirs its junk. My 56 has conversion front motor mount, my 55 has side mounts with a 396 BBC and headers with 500 box.

[Rick_L]

Just go with a CPP or Borgeson power steering conversion box. Forget R&P, forget the stock setup. The CPP and Borgeson boxes are nearly the same, the only installation difference being that the CPP has a splined input shaft and the Borgeson has a double D input shaft. Both use the stock manual pitman arm which you should already have. It can be re-used unless the ball is not round due to lack of lubrication.

There are many solutions to steering box clearance to the header/manifold. And there's no indication one way or the other that your current header won't clear. The p/s boxes are slightly larger than the stock box, so you can get an idea by just looking at what you have.

As for the engine mounts, there are power steering pump brackets that combine the original style engine mount bracket and the p/s pump bracket. No big deal.

[markm]

You can use a early 90s S10 rag joint on a 500 box.

[Dualfours]

Looks like the general thoughts are to use the CPP 600 P/S box. Will be definitely putting that on my "to do" list for the 57 when get to that point. Still in the interior phase, hopefully that will be wrapping up within the month. Maybe have to put the P/Steering on my Christmas List, LOL. Thanks for the replies and feedback.

[210Chevy]

Hey; Gary, I'm getting ready to put my power steering together on my 57 Chevy 210 2door Sedan Post. I just recieved my after market steering column & the Classic 15" steeringwheel, I will be using a 605 box, Rag Joint, and Rack & Pinion front, hoping everything hooks up without to much trouble. I have 3 threaded holes on the top front drivers side block to mount steering pump/pulley hopefully. I'll let you know how it goes.

[markm]

How do you use a 605 Box with a front mount rack???
I have never seen a SBC PS bracket that required holes in head.

[Dualfours]

William, keep me/us informed of how things go with your PS install. Not to that point yet and any tips, info and knowledge on such is always welcome.

[BamaNomad]

William,

You don't need (nor can you use) both a 605 steering box AND a rack/pinion steering gear. Both of those items do the same thing in totally different ways.

The 605 steering box basically replaces the original steering box supplied on our Trifives, but require that you cut your steering shaft and install a rag joint to connect to the 605 (which bolts to the frame the same as or similar to the original box.

The Rack and Pinion steering is a totally different animal, but accomplishes the same task (controlling the steering angle of the front wheels). Incorporating a rack n pinion into a trifive is not a simple task, nor is it guaranteed to work as you hope.

Follow Rick's suggestion below and go with the 605 (or the later 500) as a substitute for the original box.

[Old Buzzard]

605 = BAD CHOICE! BTDT.

[markm]

I was at the local Chevy restoration dealers house a while back and he had a stack of 605 boxes laying in the rain rusting. No one wants them anymore, your car drives bad and they leak.

[210Chevy]

Well; I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas, & a Happy 2022. I ended up buying a chrome 16" DD Shaft and 2 chrome U-joints for my GM 605 Steering box couldn't get the ragjoint to work right will see how that works out. Is it better to drill hole thru the shaft? or use set-screws to attach to aftermarket column?

[markm]

THe steering haft is not a good place to experiment, I would spend the $400 and buy a 500 box. Most 605s are leakers around the o-ring anyway.

[Rick_L]

You don't need a shaft at all to correctly mount a 605 steering box, same with CPP and Borgeson.

[fiftysix chevy]

In my opinion (which is like an A-hole we all have) drilling a hole and using a bolt with a nylock nut would be the safest option.

[busterwivell]

I tack weld mine, too.

[BamaNomad]

I think the best connection thru a coupler would be either a splined connection or a D connector, as the factories do.

[markm]

I am with Bama on this one.

[Rick_L]

Since a 605 or a CPP500 box have a spline, that's pretty much what you have to use on one end of your rag joint. The other end must match the steering column. Again, no shafts are involved.

[HILLBILLY823]

A 500 box, not a 600

[210Chevy]

Wow! ok thanks for everyone's input. I might think about a 500

[markm]

A 500 Box is a good plan.