My 55 Bare Bonz just GO-STOP-TURN Build

[55 Rescue Dog]

After 5 years I finally got my car to the point where I can put it together as is and drive it, before I spend years, and tons of cash to make it nice. What started out as a 55 210 I bought after too many beers, and one click on ebay that turned out to be a rat infested car from a junk yard in the middle of nowhere Minnesota. I then bought a C4 conversion chassis to put under it. Sent it off to a body shop a few months later, and the car just sat there for a year with parts piled on top of it. I then found another body shell that I thought was a much better one to work with, but after almost another year in a different shop, $14k later and lots of filler that wasn't such a great deal either. Just got it back in the middle of July in primer, with more body work still needed, and decided it was going on the road anyway. Deleting a lot of stuff. No radio, AC, heat, wipers, side windows, sound proofing , and lots of other things. Just enough stuff to make it go-stop-and turn. Also trying to keep the weight under the weight of a 96 C4 Corvette, in order to use the stock traverse springs. It's kind of fun trying to figure out how to put it together, with lots of mods. It will be a surprise to me when it's done, because it is nothing like I set out to build, and it keeps evolving into a totally different car. I'll just post a couple pics for now of where I started, and where I am today. Will post more details later, so I can spend more countless time, and money on my car.
114701147111472

[BamaNomad]

RD.. I really like the looks of your '55 sedan in 'black' with the torque thrusts! :)

You have it in a form now to get it running, driving, and stopping, and no reason you can't finish it yourself as you need/want to... and have FUN with it..

[56Mark]

Looking really nice. What lift is that? Do you like it? I have been looking at low and mid rise lifts. I can't decide what I want.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Looking really nice. What lift is that? Do you like it? I have been looking at low and mid rise lifts. I can't decide what I want.
It is an old Rotory lift I bought used like 20 years ago for $600. A 2-post like would be best. but this one has come in very handy, and can be moved around. It also has the sliding/swivel lift pads like used on underground lifts. And with any lift , you need to be careful not to knock the car off of it.

[55shoebox]

Nice looking double nickel RD.

[Belair-o]

Hey RD, Nice to see how your 55 is coming along, seems like it won't be long before wheels down! The wheels and the black body complement each other very well!

[57fleetside]

Nice looking 55. Get it driveable and enjoy it. Steve

[carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)]

cool look the way it is. my sig says it all for me.

[55 Rescue Dog]

All though I've posted some of what I've had to go through on my car, I thought I would back up a few steps of what I had to do before. One thing that drove me crazy was the body shell I bought was someone removed the #1 body mounts, and threw them away. So before I could send it to the body shop I had to fab them up from scratch. Didn't want to try and cut them off of my parts car and destroy that one too, so I used them as a pattern to try and make my own. It took me like 4 months, but I think they will work.
1148011481114821148311484

[markm]

Looks good, any clue why someone would have cut them off in first place.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Looks good, any clue why someone would have cut them off in first place.
I have no idea, other than someone long ago was going to make a drag car from it. It has 15 inch wheel tubs, recessed firewall, light sheet metal trunk floor, fuel fill door deleted, and the drip rails shaved off. I wouldn't have done it, but it will have to do. The firewall was a good thing though, other than I hate having to drill big holes in it for everything.

[567chevys]

Looking Good 55 RD

Sid

[55 Rescue Dog]

One of the first things I had to get out of the way in order to assemble my car was to figure out what seats to use to find out where to put the steering column, followed by the brake, throttle pedal, and the shifter. After months of looking I finally settled on these Corbeau leather reclining seats. I had to have something that had slots for 5 point harnesses which limited my choices, but I really like these. They are firm, but comfortable, with great support. The company has been making racing seats out of England for 35 years with a distributor in Utah. Great service, and though not cheap the seats are very solid, well made with double locking sliders. I also used their bolt in seat frame which made installation much easier than trying to fab something from scratch. At 6'2 180lbs, I did make adaptor plates to move the seat frame back 3 inches for plenty of leg room. The seat tracks had enough travel, but I didn't want so much of it hanging off the back of the seat frame. The seats are also not too heavy at 35lbs each, and pretty easy to take in and out, and they sit up at the perfect height for good visibility.
114891149011491

[BamaNomad]

I'm not a fan of the 'look' of high backs in our trifives, but otherwise I really like the seats you've chosen to use RD, and the higher mounting for visibility as you state.

[55 Rescue Dog]

I'm not a fan of the 'look' of high backs in our trifives, but otherwise I really like the seats you've chosen to use RD, and the higher mounting for visibility as you state.
Thanks. I know these seats look out of place, but trying to do a few things different. Form follows function. There won't be a back seat either.
Since there was no hole in the firewall for a steering column, I was at least was able to get started using a piece of PVC pipe. I'll post that step next.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Just recently finished the dreaded steering column project. After looking at everything out there, I decided I wanted something other than a hefty tilt column, and go with something more slender, and safer. Since my C4 steering rack is way out to the front of the engine, I went wit the Woodward collapsible safety column. It is required by Nascar, and other racing series. It only weighs like 6 pounds, and is precision made. It's a splined telescoping shaft that has 11 inches of travel. It is 1.5 inches in diameter, and I had a split aluminum sleeve made to make it fit the stock 2 inch mount. It took 2 holes through the firewall though, since it didn't occur to me that it should come through the center of the bezel. Crap
I used a splined intermediate shaft with a Woodward joint on the top, and a Borgeson weld-on DD 17mm joint. Hardly any angle on the joints, and lots of clearance. http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/8.%20Safety%20Steering%20Columns%20and%20Quick%20R eleases.pdf
1150311504115051150611507

[55 Rescue Dog]

It took me a while, but I finally figured out my brake pedal setup. I did not want to deal with power brakes, so I decided to try and mount a Wilwood race proven brake pedal. It has a 7:1 ratio, and a balance bar to fine tune the front/rear brake pressures. I can also run 2 different size master cylinders if needed. Since it is manual, I needed to come up with a strong pedal mount to minimize brake pedal flex. I used the tail end of what was the stock pedal brace, since it also needs to support the steering column using the cowl support rods. On the firewall I used a 1/4 inch pedal mount plate I found at Speedway. Added some various channels and pieces of steel to tie it all together. I think it will be plenty strong, and can add more bracing if needed. I didn't have enough room to put the brake pedal, and DBW throttle pedal on the right side of the steering column, so I mounted the pedal to the left side. The pedal position is actually great for my size 13 clown shoes, plus now I can easily left-foot brake too. I was able to come up with a throttle pedal mount using 2 studs from the brake pedal plate, and also added brake pressure gages to make tuning, and trouble shooting easy. On the master cylinders I made an aluminum plate for the brake tees. Another plus that wasn't planned, everything is easy to take apart, or assemble, which I had to do countless times mocking it up.
1152111522115231152411525

[55 Rescue Dog]

Getting the windshield installed just 30 minutes ago was a fun project to get finished. Went with the green EZ-eye glass that Bama had suggested.
I really think it's the perfect tint for a tri-five. It came to my glass guy on Friday, and they came over this morning, and installed it in just over an hour. No way would I even attempt to install a windshield by myself. He has installed many old car windshields, and makes it look easy, but for the $484 it cost me for the glass, seal, and installation it was a bargain.
115361153711538

[567chevys]

Looks great , Where is the lower Trim ?


Thanks for sharing


Sid

[55 Rescue Dog]

I get to try and put the lower trim on, but trim hates me.

[55 Rescue Dog]

I get to try and put the lower trim on, but trim hates me.
Of course first thing this morning trying to put the lower windshield trim on I set one of the trim clips over the hole, turned around to grab a screw and as could be expected, it slipped off, and it disappeared into the cowl opening. Been trying to find it for a hour now.

[BamaNomad]

Uhoh... do you have a long extendible magnetic tool?? That's the only thing I can think of but I've never had to do that inside a '55-56 cowl. Maybe someone with experience on that can help you...

[55 Rescue Dog]

I found out you do not want anything falling down in your cowl vent. Turns out there is a narrow hidden vertical drain channel tucked into the corner of the plenum behind the vent door. It's narrow at the bottom, and wide at the top connected to a horizontal channel at the top below the cowl where it wraps around the corner. Dropped a penny size washer in the cowl to try and figure out what happened to the clip, and it vanished too. Made several attempts to work a wire into the channel and I actually hooked it once only to figure out it is wedged in the forever now. I can use one of my old clips, but not until I tape off the whole grill area. I wish there was a good way to screen off the cowl vent. That drain channel could easily be completely clogged and you would never know it. In the picture, the green wire is the bottom of the channel. At the top you can barely get a finger near it. The picture is upside down btw. I never would have known that channel was even there, or looked if this hadn't happened. It's spot welded to the backside of the firewall inside plenum.
11539

[bigblock]

RD can you open up the bottom of the channel a little and see if your piece will come out ? Without damage to the firewall. Just a thought.

[BamaNomad]

[QUOTE=55 Rescue Dog;58221]Getting the windshield installed just 30 minutes ago was a fun project to get finished. Went with the green EZ-eye glass that Bama had suggested.
I really think it's the perfect tint for a tri-five. It came to my glass guy on Friday, and they came over this morning, and installed it in just over an hour. No way would I even attempt to install a windshield by myself. He has installed many old car windshields, and makes it look easy, but for the $484 it cost me for the glass, seal, and installation it was a bargain. [QUOTE]


I've installed several in the mostly distant past, but a couple in the last few years, but I'm having a difficult time with the one for my current '57 Nomad, and looking for 'more' good tips on the do's and don't's.. RD: Did you watch their process and learn anything?
Q. Did they use any sort of sealer on either the body or the seal where it envelops the pinchweld? OR anything in the seal where it engages the glass or the trim?

Did you learn any tips/tricks that you could pass along? The next time I try my install, it's either going IN, or it's going to be in pieces! :)

[55 Rescue Dog]

[QUOTE=55 Rescue Dog;58221]Getting the windshield installed just 30 minutes ago was a fun project to get finished. Went with the green EZ-eye glass that Bama had suggested.
I really think it's the perfect tint for a tri-five. It came to my glass guy on Friday, and they came over this morning, and installed it in just over an hour. No way would I even attempt to install a windshield by myself. He has installed many old car windshields, and makes it look easy, but for the $484 it cost me for the glass, seal, and installation it was a bargain. [QUOTE]


I've installed several in the mostly distant past, but a couple in the last few years, but I'm having a difficult time with the one for my current '57 Nomad, and looking for 'more' good tips on the do's and don't's.. RD: Did you watch their process and learn anything?
Q. Did they use any sort of sealer on either the body or the seal where it envelops the pinchweld? OR anything in the seal where it engages the glass or the trim?

Did you learn any tips/tricks that you could pass along? The next time I try my install, it's either going IN, or it's going to be in pieces! :)
I did watch them work on it, and tried to respect their trade by not seeking too much info. But after watching the process of them getting the orientation of the seal correct, and installing the upper trim I decided it wasn't something I ever wanted to know how to do. Installation was much cheaper than the glass, plus it was super easy to just watch them do it. Didn't want to watch when they get to the point of banging it into place, so I went outside for 10 minutes, and when the beating was done I came back in and it was finished. They did use sealer just between the seal, and the glass on the outside only.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Received my Ron Francis wiring harness kit the other day, which will make for a long winter project. Got the panel mounted in the glove box with the PCM bolted to the backside of the aluminum plate I made. Trying to keep things easy to work on, but it keeps getting harder with the more stuff that keeps adding on. I don't even have AC, heat, radio, wipers or anything else in the way, and it's still going to be a pain. I like the terminal strip design of the RF fuse panels I can run just the wires I need with plenty of spare circuits, plus easy to test, and troubleshoot. I've been looking at it for 3 day trying to figure out which wire to even start with.
11574
11570115711157211573

[BamaNomad]

I've been wondering if it would be helpful during the wiring process to hook up a small battery (maybe a 9V battery?) which would enable checking the 'hot leads' and the Grounds/returns to make sure there were no shorts or missed wiring connections as we make the individual circuits??

Would this be helpful in finding wiring issues ? If you had an issue, the 9V battery wouldn't put out enough power to cause any damage...?

[55 Rescue Dog]

The 9 volt battery can't put out enough power to turn anything on. I am going to test each circuit as I wire it up using a cheap 12 volt, 5 amp power supply I use to power up the tail lights on the bumper I have hanging on the wall. I can power up most of the circuits using that, and if that isn't enough I will use my motorcycle battery with the appropriate size fuse inline. That way I will know everything will probably work when I go to power up the whole car using a big battery.
1157511576

[BamaNomad]

I wasn't suggesting POWERING anything, just proposed the 9V battery as a means to TEST that the wires that were supposed to be HOT were hot, and the ones that were supposed to be GROUND were grounded... ie no shorts, no opens in the WIRES...

ie. BEFORE installing any Loads...

[55 Rescue Dog]

I wasn't suggesting POWERING anything, just proposed the 9V battery as a means to TEST that the wires that were supposed to be HOT were hot, and the ones that were supposed to be GROUND were grounded... ie no shorts, no opens in the WIRES...

ie. BEFORE installing any Loads...
If I didn't want to power something to verify connections, I would just use an ohmmeter and check continuity, instead of a small battery.

[BamaNomad]

RD: You can do that When the full harness with all the wires is lying on a bench, but once installed into the car... not so easy since there might be 10-15 feet between the two points you want to check continuity ...

[55 Rescue Dog]

I've had to wring out wires on machine tools over 50 feet long before. Just ground one end, and check through the bundle on the other end looking for continuity to ground. Or, just rig up long test lead. A small battery could be made to work though.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Just wanted to add this previous thread about my wheel and tire choice. 275/40-17 tires on 9.5in wide wheels front and rear.

https://www.trifivechevys.com/showthread.php/7009-How-I-mounted-and-balanced-the-275-40-17-tires-on-the-front-and-rear-for-my-55

[55 Rescue Dog]

After focusing as much time and effort working on getting my 55 on the road over the last few months, I made it happen early last August. Every 4-day project turned into 4 weeks of course but I stayed after it. The car is far from finished, but it is so much fun to drive I don't even care. Spending the winter going back over the car doing one project at a time, so the car will be ready to hit the road again this spring.
On its maiden voyage I took my dad for a ride, since he hadn't been in a 55 since he had a new one, and I was 2 years old. This car amazes me every time I drive it. It is very quick and drives down the road better than most of the newer cars I've ever driven. I left a lot of stuff off the car to get it on the road as soon as possible since I didn't want it to turn into a 20-year project. Plus, I want to keep the car as light as I can. Weighs 3400lbs now without inner fenders, front bumper, no side windows, no heat, AC, radio, wipers, or backseat, etc.
12410124111241212413124141241512416124171241812419

[BamaNomad]

I like it RD... Have you ever mentioned the details on the engine you used? (if so, I can't remember).. :) It appears to be a VORTEC engine (from the top cover).. cast iron block? aluminum heads?

and I assume since you used C4 corvette suspension that you also are using C4 brakes?? so it STOPS good? :)

Gary

[Belair-o]

Your car shows a lot of thought, good work, and lots of quality parts. Great ingenuity! Glad you are getting the joy of driving it. Do you figure to put the weight saving items back in later?

[markm]

Looks good like my car would with an updated suspension and drivetrain. Is that a Winters shifter, I run them in my Camaro drag cars and have a couple on shelf.

[markm]

What paint product did you use.

[55 Rescue Dog]

I like it RD... Have you ever mentioned the details on the engine you used? (if so, I can't remember).. :) It appears to be a VORTEC engine (from the top cover).. cast iron block? aluminum heads?

and I assume since you used C4 corvette suspension that you also are using C4 brakes?? so it STOPS good? :)

Gary
Thanks. The engine is a 2005 5.3 aluminum head truck engine I bought for $1000, and a junkyard 4L60/E I paid $550 for. They both work perfect so far, with plenty of power right where you need it with a 3.45 Dana 44 C4 rear. Used the complete front/rear suspension and composite transverse front/rear springs from a 96 Grand Sport with 13in front brakes/12in rear and the quicker steering rack. Stops great using twin 7/8ths master cylinders, with a balance bar for front rear brake bias, but I'm going to try 3/4in cylinders for less pedal effort though. Very little pedal travel now even at 1200 psi.
I wanted Corvette sized sticky tires and used matching 275/40-17 Nitto NT05 tires on the front/rear on 9.5-inch-wide AR wheels, which fit with no problem. It is so much fun blasting by newer cars on the 12+ roundabouts in town with an old 55 Chevy. It drives like a giant Corvette.
12420

[Troy]

That looks great!! As markm asked above... What paint product did you use?

[55 Rescue Dog]

What paint product did you use.
SPI epoxy primer on everything. Still need to do the fenders though. I wish I could justify expensive paint, but I got many so many comments on the primer, 3 car show awards, and it probably won't see any paint for a long time. Plus, it is only $100 a gallon, and could re-spray the whole car again at some point. For all of the small parts I use SEM Ez-coat satin black. It is direct to metal like the primer with almost the same finish. It's a little pricey at $20 per can, but I've been using it on lots of stuff because is so easy to use, and dry to the touch in less than 5 minutes, cured in 30 minutes.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Your car shows a lot of thought, good work, and lots of quality parts. Great ingenuity! Glad you are getting the joy of driving it. Do you figure to put the weight saving items back in later?
Thanks. I don't want to add any more weight to it, but have a new front bumper to put on, and maybe side windows at some point down the road. Besides the weight the side windows look like an expensive pain to install. As long don't get caught in the rain, and no wiper motor, I like driving with the windows down anyway, plus the rear quarter windows don't roll all the way down. I like not having the vent windows too. Still need to weld some more tubing to the bolt-in roll bar I put in too. Will take on the interior panels when I come up with an idea, but not much weight there.

[55 Rescue Dog]

Looks good like my car would with an updated suspension and drivetrain. Is that a Winters shifter, I run them in my Camaro drag cars and have a couple on shelf.
Yes, a Winters shifter. I really have gotten to like it. It's solid and you cannot miss a gear. I had to get creative trying to mount it inside a PVC electrical box. I try to make things easy to work on and troubleshoot where I can.
12421

[markm]

To get a similar look on my 55 150 we mixed 50% black and 50% dark gray of a PPG product that escapes me.

[redmanf1]

Nice work getting it together..