55 Auto to Manual Conversion

[ykf7b0]

I am trying to source clutch linkage parts for my 55 and I want to remove the th350 and install a 4 speed manual. My car already has the manual pedal assembly and the shaft on the frame for the z bar. Are the z bars the same for all Chevy’s or are they year/body style specific? I have an opportunity to buy a complete set up from a 71 Chevelle. Can I use it?

[markm]

They are model specific, even different between 55 and 57, I would use all 57 stuff if possible.

[Rick_L]

Chevelle parts won't work.

The clutch linkage parts are different for each year, 55-57. Far as I know only the 57 stuff has the whole set reproduced.

The part of the 55-56 sets that's not reproduced is the clutch fork and the linkage rod that goes from the z-bar to the clutch fork. However you can use the 57 clutch fork and lower linkage rod with the 55 or 56 z-bar. The 57 fork is a better design anyway. East Coast Chevy in PA sells the parts.

[ykf7b0]

Thanks to you both!!! Merry Christmas!!!!

[Rustaddict]

Here's another suggestion to buy new 57 clutch linkage and be done with it

[Rick_L]

The problem with using a 57 z-bar in a 55-56 car is the pivot ball is larger on a 57, so a 57 z-bar will have slop on the smaller 55-56 pivot ball unless you make a bushing or change the pivot ball.

[markm]

The bell crank or Z bar on my 55 had to have the inner bar cut off and moved out to clear the oil filter as 55 did not have one.

[ykf7b0]

I have just bought a Borg Warner Super T-10 four speed for my 55 but I need a shifter assembly for a bench seat. Recommendations with numbers?

[Rocketman]

If you are going to keep the bench seat you will need the C handle made for Tri 5's. You can find some used ones on ebay. Then you will have to have the correct mounting brackets for a T-10.

[ykf7b0]

Any idea if this ITM shifter that came on the trans will work. I knew I needed the C handle (thanks!) no matter which shifter assembly was used. I just want to get the correct assembly that works with my bench seat and aligns correctly.

[markm]

I own a couple ITM shifters for second gen Camaros they suck in their original application and are not worth the powder and lead to blow them to hell. My # match 74 Z28 was missing this pile of shit in 80 when I bought it.

[ykf7b0]

Mine seems to shift the trans just fine and if I can use it in the 55 I will. I'm thinking of modifying a Hurst C shifter handle to fit the ITM.

[markm]

I serously doubt something designed for a second gen Camaro with bucket seats will clear a bench seat in a 55. More inportant is how handle moves up and down for reverse. The C handle Hurst does not do that.

[Rustaddict]

The thing is, the clearance is so tight between the floor and the bench seat that it dosent really leave much room for the modifications you'd need to do. If your money is tight, it is possible to find the correct shifter used. Make sure to get one with the correct stick. Hurst sells a bolt on C stick they claim works, but people who have tried them say they are arent built right to clear the seat.

[Rick_L]

Hurst sells a bolt on C stick they claim works

Actually, Hurst doesn't claim the bolt on C stick works. Inexperienced and unknowing customers and tire kickers claim it works. It doesn't. There is a reason that the shifter Hurst sells as a shifter for a 55-57 bench seat car doesn't have a bolt on stick like virtually all other Hurst shifters - it won't clear the seat unless they built it that way. If you have a bolt on stick it will interfere with the bottom of the seat frame.

[ykf7b0]

Looks like I'm going to be needing a Hurst shifter assembly, including the C handle, specifically for a bench seat 55 and shifter rods specifically for a Borg Warner Super T-10. I wish I could locate a deal on a used set up because this won't be cheap if new. I will be saving up for it non the less. Thanks for all your knowledge!!!

[Dualfours]

Might try looking on Ebay for a bench seat "deep throw" shifter for a tri-five. Have seen them on there before when just "playing" around looking at tri-five items. I have a Mr. Gasket deep throw bench seat shifter in my '57 mated to a Muncie M-21 Years ago before Hurst started to provide such it was rather common to see bench seats modified with a portion of the front of the bench seat frame cut and re-upholstered to provide the throw. Be sure you get a mounting plate for the Borg Warner Super T-10 transmission also.

[Rick_L]

The Hurst shifter for a 55-57 was available before the Mr. Gasket one. There's nothing wrong with the Mr. Gasket clone, it's a nice copy in every way. I have one. The major difference between the two shifters is that the Hurst stick is welded and the Mr. G is one piece. Not sure what's different about the mounting plate between Muncie and BW. The Muncie mounting plate that came with the Mr. Gasket shifter works fine on a BW transmission. The shift arms on the side cover are different for a BW, as are the rods. I have used mixed and matched Hurst arms and rods with the shifter - so that is an option if you piece together something.

[Dave the Wave]

is it true, you can send a shifter to hurst to get it rebuilt? i heard something about this years ago. thanx.

[ykf7b0]

This is a Mr. Gasket shifter assembly for a tri-five with bench. Based on previous post, I'm thinking I cant use it due the the shifter shaft configuration at the base. I should add that I'm 5'5'' so I won't be moving the seat to the rear most position.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/mlUAAOSw2mhf37k7/s-l1600.jpg

[Rick_L]

Why do you think you can't use it?

[ykf7b0]

Take a look at a Hurst Competition Plus assembly especially the shifter shaft lower part. Other forums led me to believe the rounded lower shaft isn't the one I should use , its like a bolt on at the lower portion, and this one will allow more clearance.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zj0AAOSweR9fvng~/s-l500.jpg

[markm]

is it true, you can send a shifter to hurst to get it rebuilt? i heard something about this years ago. thanx.

That was true years ago before they were bought out, it was very reasonable, I never paid over $35.

[Rick_L]

I don't see any difference in the two shifters except for the rounded corner on the Mr. G shifter.

[ykf7b0]

From what I can gather, that little difference can matter a whole lot regarding the seat position. I don’t know. ?

[markm]

I assume you bought a Super T-10 as they were the only T-10s offered with with ITM shifters, you will also need a TH-400 style yoke. How many rings does it have on input.

[ykf7b0]

I have the yoke. 3 rings and it should be 2.64 first gear correct?

[markm]

I believe that is a 2.64, that was stock in my AC equiped 74 Z28 Type Lt with a 3.42 posi.

[Rick_L]

that little difference can matter a whole lot regarding the seat position. I don’t know. ?

Trust me, that one doesn't matter.

[ykf7b0]

Here's another suggestion to buy new 57 clutch linkage and be done with it


The problem with using a 57 z-bar in a 55-56 car is the pivot ball is larger on a 57, so a 57 z-bar will have slop on the smaller 55-56 pivot ball unless you make a bushing or change the pivot ball.

Ok, So I need a 57 clutch linkage to clear the oil filter on my 1975 350 engine but I need to either make a bushing for my 1955 5/8 shaft for better fitment on a 1957 3/4 z-bar or change the pivot. Has anyone here made a bushing or changed the pivot?

[Rustaddict]

I dont think having a 57 linkage has anything to do with the oil filter clearance. The benefit of the 57 stuff is it is a better design than the first 2 years. You need a 57 Z bar if you get 57 lower rod and release fork. . All 3 years are different.

[markm]

My 55 bellcrank had to be cut and narrowed to clear oil filter.

[Rick_L]

The 56-57 z-bars are wider not narrower and the engine side pivot is moved toward the engine not the other way.

If you have z-bar to filter interference something is not stock and doing whatever was done has created the interference problem.

[ykf7b0]

I have no idea what is stock so to be safe would you recommend 57 parts? Also, what do I do about the bushing and pivot ball? Thanks?

[markm]

The tube width was fine, it was the inner lever that hit in oil filter area and had to be moved away from oil filter.

[ykf7b0]

That sounds easier.

[ykf7b0]

Ok, which is better? Get 55 parts and not modify with bushings or change pivot or go with 57 parts and make necessary changes? Thanks?

[ykf7b0]

Chevelle parts won't work.

The clutch linkage parts are different for each year, 55-57. Far as I know only the 57 stuff has the whole set reproduced.

The part of the 55-56 sets that's not reproduced is the clutch fork and the linkage rod that goes from the z-bar to the clutch fork. However you can use the 57 clutch fork and lower linkage rod with the 55 or 56 z-bar. The 57 fork is a better design anyway. East Coast Chevy in PA sells the parts.


I dont think having a 57 linkage has anything to do with the oil filter clearance. The benefit of the 57 stuff is it is a better design than the first 2 years. You need a 57 Z bar if you get 57 lower rod and release fork. . All 3 years are different.

Here is where I’m a little confused. Can I use a 57 clutch fork and lower rod with a 55 z-bar or not? Thanks!

[Rick_L]

Yes you can.

[ykf7b0]

Thanks Rick!

[HILLBILLY823]

[QUOTE=Dave the Wave;58777]is it true, you can send a shifter to hurst to get it rebuilt? i heard something about this years ago. thanx.[/QUO There is a guy here in CT that deals in shifters. His business card says: "Aftermarket Shifters" New/Used/Reconditioned. he is at all the local swap meets (when they are held). His name is Mike Johnson (860) 868-2746. mrj11@charter.net. I have purchased a kit to marry my Comp Plus to a Muncie M-20 from him. He might be able to help you out.

[ykf7b0]

Could anyone tell me if any vendor has a complete clutch linkage kit (clutch pedal to throw out bearing) and/or make a recommendation please? I have a 55 but I understand I'm needing a 57 set up in order to get a new complete unit based on previous responses. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I will also need a pivot ball or bush my 55 pivot ball in order to make the 57 set up work? Again, I need everything after the clutch pedal up to the throw out bearing. Thanks!!!

[ykf7b0]

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HNQAAOSwHMJYNi0U/s-l1600.jpg

[ykf7b0]

I found the kit pictured above just now and it's for a 57. Is it missing anything I'm going to need other than the clutch fork?

[Rick_L]

Looks complete except for fork and t/o bearing.

[Al_Dente]

I'd go hydraulic. With those, there is nothing to adjust and the pedal effort is greatly reduced. If too expensive for your budget, you could construct something similar yourself, using either new or used parts from other vcehicles:

https://www.malwoodusa.com/hydraulic-under-dash/malwood-usa-1957-chevy-hydraulic-master-cylinder-clutch-pedal-kit-billet-reservoir/

https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi0.wp.com%2Fwww.malwoodusa.com%2F wp-content%2Fuploads%2F2019%2F10%2FCHEVY-55-57-HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-PEDAL-MAIN-1.jpeg%3Ffit%3D1200%252C800%26ssl%3D1&f=1&nofb=1

[ykf7b0]

I can't afford the hydraulic route but thanks Al Dente! I have found complete clutch linkage kits for 55's and 57's for my 55. Would you still recommend that I get the 57 kit and change to the larger pivot ball or go with the 55 kit? I has been mentioned on this site that the 57 kit is a better design regarding the clutch fork. I'm just wondering what are the differences between the 55 and 57 clutch forks? I'm sorry to keep dragging this out. Thanks!

[Al_Dente]

Well, I've never went that route myself. So, I'd say, go with the '57 conversion, as a unanimous vote from the experts here

[ykf7b0]

I'm sure I will go with the 57 design but I am curious as to why the 57 is a better design? Is it the angle of the clutch fork?

[Rick_L]

The 55 clutch fork has a ball socket and the adjuster nut on the rod is a ball. it depends on not having slack in the connection for the rod to stay in the socket on the clutch fork, as well as a small spring. The 57 clutch fork has a clevis connection, you put a pin through a hole. As long as the pin does fall out, the connection stays together. 56 is similar to 55 but the parts are different in detail. The 55-56 setups are not terrible but the 57 is better IMO. The other deal on this is that the 57 parts are much easier to find new.

[ykf7b0]

Thanks Rick! Happy Thanksgiving!!!

[ykf7b0]

One last question if I may? I see there are different depth throw out bearings so how do I know which size I will need? I have a Borg Warner Super T10 4 speed and I have just ordered a clutch linkage set up for a 57 including the fork.

[markm]

Trannie is a non factor a super T-10 or oem 3 speed same TO bearing. You need the one that matchs the clutch & PP.

[TrifiveRichard]

I believe the diagram clutch uses the short bearing and the three finger, spring clutch uses the longer one, but double check to be sure.

[BamaNomad]

I think Richard had a typo.. :) he meant 'diaphragm' ? and I think the other type (3 finger) is called a 'Long style'? Not sure which TO bearing goes with each though...

[markm]

I alway thought a 3 finger in GM was a Borg & Beck, the Long style was Ford thing.

[Rick_L]

That would be correct on the Long style vs. Borg & Beck. B&B uses a short throwout bearing as does a raised finger diaphragm. A flat diaphragm (which was the original clutch in a trifive) uses the long throwout bearing.

A Long style is sometimes used in GM products for racing/high performance applications. It is superior to a Borg & Beck because a B&B has rollers which add clamping force as rpm increases, and these can stick. A Long style can have weights on the fingers which also add clamping force with increasing rpm and they do not stick. The weights are usually bolts and nuts and add a bit of adjustability to this feature. I am not sure on the throwout bearing - it might be "medium" length, at least sometimes.

[TrifiveRichard]

I think Richard had a typo.. :) he meant 'diaphragm' ? and I think the other type (3 finger) is called a 'Long style'? Not sure which TO bearing goes with each though...

Yes, diaphragm, spell checker is wonderful...

I believe both Long and Borg&Beck were available for GM, but I could be wrong. As I recall, the high clutch pressure plates (3000#) were all B&B, but it's been many years since I used a B&B!

[Rick_L]

The pressure plate cover for both B&B and diaphragm clutches have a symmetrical 6 bolt circle pattern for attachment to the flywheel. The dimension of the bolt circle varies with pressure plate size.l The pressure plate cover for a Long style has 6 bolts but the pattern is 3 pairs. It is a special pattern that most flywheels don't have. (Can be added or special ordered though.)

[markm]

I really thought the 3500 or 4000 pound roller assisted PP that I used to run in my 67 Camaro 40 years ago was a B&B. I still have the Competition Engineering firewall brace on the car that was necessary to prevent flex. Obviously, my memory is fading on this one.

[Rick_L]

It probably was since a B&B 11" pressure plate bolts to the flywheel with the same pattern as a diaphragm. So it's a bolt in swap. The 67 Camaro I raced way back when had a firewall brace also. The firewall would flex 1/8"-3/16" even without the added clamping from the rollers.

[markm]

Thanks Rick that is consistant with my memory of things, I still have the brace on it even though the modern diaphram PP most likely does not need it.