55 Chevy Belair Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram

[Chevy'sRule]

I'm trying to correct and repair my cousins 55 Chevy Belair's Ignition Switch and Wiring. The current ignition switch and wiring appears to have shorted out. I intend to replace the existing ignition switch with the exact same ignition switch that is currently installed with a switch of which I purchased from Summit Racing. As you can see there is only one Ignition switch terminal. There is no ignition switch terminal 1 and terminal 2. So, with this type of ignition switch, what is the correct wiring diagram hook up that I need to use? Currently when they attempt to turn off the ignition switch after the engine is running, the engine continues to run. To shut off the engine, they have to turn off a kill switch that is mounted under the passenger seat. Thanks for your support, Tommy.

[chevynut]

When in the "ACC" or "OFF" position that switch should turn power off to the IGN terminal. SOL should only be hot while cranking. ACC should only be hot when in the ACC position. I don't have any idea why they have a ground on it. Anything you want to be powered only when the engine is running should be connected to IGN.

Is that a crack around the BAT terminal?

[Chevy'sRule]

When in the "ACC" or "OFF" position that switch should turn power off to the IGN terminal. SOL should only be hot while cranking. ACC should only be hot when in the ACC position. I don't have any idea why they have a ground on it. Anything you want to be powered only when the engine is running should be connected to IGN.

Is that a crack around the BAT terminal?

No there are no cracks around the battery terminals. Something appears to be back feeding the ignition switch. Not sure what that is yet?

[chevynut]

No there are no cracks around the battery terminals. Something appears to be back feeding the ignition switch. Not sure what that is yet?

Can you check the switch with an ohmmeter? I wouldn't look for anything "backfeeding" it until you can confirm that the IGN terminal isn't connected to the BAT terminal when in the off position. If it's not connected, and the switch is working like it's supposed to, look at your alternator circuit.

I still see what looks like a crack around the BAT terminal on the ignition switch.

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[Chevy'sRule]

The picture provided is of the old ignition switch. I replaced the old ignition switch with a brand new one. The problem of the engine still running after the switch was turned off and the key removed occurred after I installed the new ignition switch. Sorry I did not explain about the ignition switch earlier. I'm using a new ignition switch housing with the original existing key lock cylinder. The first day I installed the new ignition switch the engine ran fine and turned off ok when I turned off the switch and removed the key. The second day when my cousin drove the car it ran ok. However, when he drove the car back home into the garage and turned off the ignition switch, the engine kept running. So he reached under the passenger seat and turned off the cut off switch that was installed a few years earlier for theft purposes. The cut off switch intercept's the positive battery cable. By the way, the battery is located in the trunk. The car belongs to my cousin Bobby and is currently parked in his garage. I plan on going over there tomorrow to troubleshoot the problem. Bobby is 82 years old and I'm 75 years old. The blind leading the blind as they say. If you have any suggestions as to what I can check for tomorrow I will gladly check on it. Thank you for your support. Aloha, Tommy.

[chevynut]

Sorry I misunderstood the issue....I thought you WERE going to replace the ignition switch and were still using the old one. So I'm a little confused....you said the old ignition switch was "shorted" so you replaced it with a brand new one. What was "shorted" on the old switch? What was the problem with it that caused you to replace it? Did the engine turn off with the old switch?

Did this "backfeeding" problem only start with the new switch? Is the new switch IDENTICAL to the old one? Are you sure you have the correct wires on the correct terminals on the new ignition switch?

Can you tell us more about the engine and what's on it as far as carb/EFI, what type ignition, etc.?

Do you have an alternator? Did you change anything there? What type of alternator are you using? Is the car's wiring modified?

Even a new switch can be bad. I'd check the new ignition switch for shorts first with a meter. Make sure there's no shorts in the OFF position between the BAT terminal and IGN and ACC terminals. Make sure IGN and ACC aren't shorted together in ACC. ACC shouldn't be powered in START but IGN and SOL should. If it looks like the switch is working correctly, re-install the wiring. Start the engine and see if it still runs after turning the key off. If it does, turn it off and remove the alternator wiring. Start it again and see if it turns off with the key. If it does, you probably have an alternator or wiring problem or your new switch is functionally different than the old one.

[Chevy'sRule]

I may have found the problem for the back feeding. When I went to my cousins house to troubleshoot the problem, I connected the battery terminals and started the engine. It started up on and I attempted to turn off the ignition switch. The engine kept running. I got out of the car and walked around the car and noticed that the headlights were on. I went back into the car and turned off the headlight switch. I then attempted to turn off the ignition switch. The engine shut off. I then started the engine again, pulled out the headlight switch half way out which controls the parking lights. With the parking lights on I attempted to turn off the ignition switch, the engine did shut off. This time I turned off the lights and started the engine. I then pulled out the light switch all the way which controls the headlights. I then attempted to turn off the ignition switch the engine kept running. So, the problem appears to be with the headlight circuit. I will continue working with it.

[chevynut]

Should be pretty easy to find the problem now. Good luck.

[Chevy'sRule]

Why do they make it so hard to add a picture in these treads. I did it above but can't seem to do it now. Can anyone explain the process to me? Thank you, Tommy.

[chevynut]

Why do they make it so hard to add a picture in these treads. I did it above but can't seem to do it now. Can anyone explain the process to me? Thank you, Tommy.

It's actually pretty easy once you get used to it. When you start writing a post or a reply click on the icon with the tree in the picture frame. It will pop up a box where you can select whether you want to add a picture from your computer or a URL. If it's on your computer click "browse" and find your picture then click on it and hit "upload". Once you post the reply, the picture should show up. If not, hit "edit post" and try again.

[Chevy'sRule]

This is the Dakota Digital Dash Kit control box and wiring that is installed on this 55 Chevy Belair. Looking at my post on 09/06/23, not sure what to look for with the Dakota Digital control box. Let me know what you think? Aloha, Tommy.

[chevynut]

This is the Dakota Digital Dash Kit control box and wiring that is installed on this 55 Chevy Belair. Looking at my post on 09/06/23, not sure what to look for with the Dakota Digital control box. Let me know what you think? Aloha, Tommy.

Your picture is too small to read. What is the model number of the Dakota digital "control box"?