Who's dropped a hydraulic clutch kit into a TriFive with a 5 speed?

[Double Nickel]

Thinking of yanking my motor back out and adding a Richmond 5 Speed or a GF3650. I know I don't want to screw around with trying to add pedal controls so I might just install a hydraulic clutch setup. Anyone here installed one in a 5/6/7 yet?

[chevynut]

I built my own hidden master cylinder setup. To me the CCI kit looks hokey. I'm using an external slave and fork instead of a hydraulic TO bearing. Heard about too many leaking problems with the hydraulic TO bearing.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL97/465705/4874799/68039107.jpg

[Rick_L]

"I know I don't want to screw around with trying to add pedal controls so I might just install a hydraulic clutch setup."

What makes you think that screwing around with a hydraulic setup is any easier than screwing around with the mechanical linkage?

The mechanical linkage is probably easier and IMO works equally well. At least on a running car.

Do you have an automatic now? Do you have the frame pivot for the clutch linkage on the frame?

[chevynut]

My guess is his headers are the big challenge. They're a custom stainless set made to fit with the automatic, and I doubt any consideration was made for a manual clutch linkage.

IMO a hydraulic clutch is a lot easier to implement on a custom setup.

[Rick_L]

You're probably going to have to cut on the firewall to do a hydraulic clutch. That means getting a lot of stuff out of the way to do that. You possibly could do the mechanical linkage without so much teardown. Or tearing the interior apart to do a hidden one.

Maybe that's not a problem or consideration here, I don't know. Don't know about the headers. For instance, EW headers will work with stock linkage.

All I'm saying is that a mechanical linkage would be fine with the right clutch package. The same clutch package that should be used with either setup. I'd be thinking about a McLeod dual disc.

[Double Nickel]

Definitely going McLeod dual disc and a scatter shield. I don't have the frame pivot as I ground it off the frame and was going to see what options there were to hide the hydraulic master. If that proves futile at this point then I'll adjust and adapt the current headers which are custom so I can install a new linkage and pivot ball. Either way, I've pretty much decided that driving this car with the auto is boring and I want a standard now that I'm going to drop the blower.

Gonna have to further customize my carrier to add the clutch pedal anyways so there's going to need to be some major changes to accomplish this anyways, and probably pulling the flooring back as tunnel mods may also be needed depending on the transmission I end up using. I see a royal PITA coming but it's what it's worth it to me to have a stick. I can always weld another pivot on and may just use Earle's carrier modify the pedal pads to match my current style. I knew I should have done this before. Oh well.

[Rick_L]

What transmission case is the G&G 3650 trans based on? Or is it totally custom?

I remember dealing with G&G back in the early 80s. G&G stood for "George and God" back then, don't know if George is still the owner or not.

[Double Nickel]

Trans I'm looking at is a new model released by G-Force and is based of the late model Mustang Trans.

http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_3650.asp

It has an adapter to mate it to common flange bell housings, and is available in two options. A 600 hp version and a 1000hp version. You can guess which one I'm looking at. lol